By Courtney Klosterman Cracks in the walls can reveal a lot about your home’s health. These imperfections are a natural result of everyday use—and sometimes can be a sign of something more serious.  Some cracks can appear within the first year as your house settles and dries out, but timing and severity of certain cracks depend on factors like your home’s construction type, building quality, foundation and soil conditions. Small cracks? Not an immediate issue. Big ones? Don't let them become big problems. Catch them early and you may save yourself time, money, and stress. Below is a guide of the different types of wall cracks, common root causes, and the best course of action for completing repairs. Hairline Cracks Level of urgency:  Low Thin, spiderweb-like hairline cracks are less than 1 millimeter wide — about the width of a human hair — and are the most common drywall cracks. They appear due to normal house settling or minor fluctuations in temperature and humidity.  Hairline cracks can run in any direction and don't require immediate attention. You’ll still want to monitor the cracks each week to check for a change in length and width and address any moisture issues like improper drainage. If you notice the crack growing wider or longer, consult a professional structural engineer for evaluation to assess the cause and recommend any necessary repairs.  All graphics appear courtesy of Hippo Home Insurance Can be caused by: • Settling: As a house settles into its foundation, slight shifts can lead to minor cracks in the drywall or plaster. • Temperature changes: Seasonal temperature variations cause building materials to expand and contract. • Humidity changes: Changes in humidity levels can cause drywall or plaster to contract or expand. Actions to take: • Monitor the crack weekly for any growth. • Patch and repaint the hairline crack using a joint compound, which is a paste made of gypsum powder and other binders that can be spread onto the crack and be sanded when dry. Vertical Cracks Level of urgency:  Low to Moderate As a result of foundation settlement, vertical cracks travel straight up and down, following the line where the wall meets the floor, and vary in size. These cracks generally pose minimal concern if there are no significant length or width increases.  Vertical cracks need to be assessed once they are greater than 5 millimeters wide. If the crack is close enough to the ground and easily accessible, use a ruler to measure its width. For high cracks, mark either side with a pencil 1 inch apart and monitor the distance. If you detect dampness or widening cracks, seek professional help.  Can be caused by: • Settling: Both newer and older homes can experience settling into their foundation. While newer homes may settle more noticeably due to the initial adjustments of the building materials, older homes might have already undergone significant settling over time, which can also lead to cracks in the walls. • Temperature Changes: Temperature fluctuations can make building materials expand and contract slightly. The urgency of addressing a vertical crack depends on its size: • Low Urgency:   Hairline vertical cracks are generally low priority, especially if they haven't changed.  • Moderate Urgency: Cracks wider than 3 millimeters warrant a professional evaluation.  Actions to take: • For hairline vertical cracks, monitor them weekly for any changes in size or length. • If the cracks widen or you have concerns, consult a foundation specialist for a professional assessment.  Horizontal Cracks Level of urgency:  High Horizontal cracks running along the wall plane can be a serious sign of foundation issues and potential structural drywall cracks. These cracks are often the result of structural movement as expansive soils build up against the foundation wall. They will progressively widen without proper care, potentially causing complete wall failure.  Consult a professional for any horizontal crack, regardless of width. This urgency is because horizontal cracks signify movement or pressure on the foundation walls. Early detection and intervention are crucial to prevent further damage. Can be caused by: • Foundation Movement: Uneven settling of the foundation puts stress on walls, causing them to crack horizontally. This is due to poor soil conditions, moisture issues, or changes in water drainage around the house. While horizontal cracks may be more commonly associated with newer homes, older homes are not exempt. Factors such as moisture problems or changes in water drainage around the house can also contribute to foundation movement and horizontal cracking. Actions to take: • Consult a foundation specialist or structural engineer for a professional assessment. • The professional should be able to help diagnose the cause of the crack and recommend the most appropriate course of action, which may involve foundation repair or structural reinforcement. Diagonal Cracks Level of urgency:  High Diagonal cracks run at an angle on the wall from corner to corner, slanted at a 45-degree angle compared to the vertical wall plane. These cracks, regardless of size, need immediate attention from a professional.  Early intervention is key since diagonal cracks are a sign of foundation settlement, often as a result of the earth pushing on the concrete basement wall. Early detection and intervention are crucial to preventing more extensive damage to your foundation and the overall structural integrity of your home. Can be caused by: • Poor Soil Compaction: If the soil supporting your foundation wasn't adequately compacted during construction, it will settle unevenly over time. This uneven settling puts stress on the walls, causing them to crack diagonally. • Changes in Moisture Content: Fluctuations in soil moisture content lead to uneven settling. For example, during droughts, the soil shrinks, causing the foundation to shift and walls to crack. • Inadequate Drainage: Poor drainage around the house leads to water pooling near the foundation. This saturated soil puts uneven pressure on the foundation. Actions to take: • Contact a foundation specialist or structural engineer as soon as possible for a professional assessment.  • The professional can diagnose the cause of the crack and recommend the most appropriate course of action, which may involve foundation repair, soil stabilization techniques, or structural reinforcement. When to Worry Not all cracks are created equal. The size and location of wall cracks are key factors. Large cracks wider than 5 millimeters are a cause for concern, especially if they are diagonal, horizontal, or above a door frame. These cracks could indicate foundation movement, stress on structural supports, or settling issues. It’s helpful to get a professional opinion in these cases. The presence of multiple cracks, especially if they are clustered together in a specific area, also calls for attention. This suggests there could be a widespread problem that requires a professional evaluation to determine the cause and best course of action. By addressing cracks promptly, you can help prevent them from worsening and safeguard the structural integrity of your home. While not always a cause for alarm, cracks in your walls or ceilings are fairly common. They might seem visually alarming, but understanding them can help identify the difference between a minor cosmetic imperfection and a more significant structural problem. -- about the author: Courtney Klosterman is the home insights expert at Hippo , the home insurance group focused on proactive protection. To learn more, visit www.hippo.com .

by Tom Matthews Stair stringers are the backbone of a staircase, providing the structural support needed to hold up the treads and risers. Properly calculating and cutting stair stringers is essential for ensuring a safe, stable, and aesthetically pleasing staircase that meets building code requirements. Understanding Stair Stringers Stair stringers are the diagonal supports that run from the bottom to the top of a staircase and are typically notched to hold the treads (the horizontal steps) and risers (the vertical parts between the steps). Typically, a staircase has at least three stringers: one on each side and one in the middle for added support in wider stairs. Each wooden stringer should be made from a 2x12-inch board of the straightest possible lumber with the fewest knots. Boards smaller than 2x12 inches do not leave enough wood to carry the load of the stairs after the cuts are made. Start with boards that are about 12 inches longer than the total length of the stringer. Tools and Materials Needed • Tape measure • Carpenter’s square (AKA a framing square) • Pencil • Saws (circular saw and handsaw) • Level • Calculator • Ruler or straightedge • 2x12 lumber (pressure-treated for ground contact if building outdoors) A Look at the Basics of a Pro-Grade Project Code Requirements It’s important to check your local building codes for guidelines such as allowable riser height and tread depth. For example, the International Residential Code states that maximum stair-riser height is 7-3/4 inches, and this measurement cannot vary more than 3/8 of an inch along the stairs. Minimum tread depth is 10 inches (plus a required nosing of at least 3/4 inch, although a tread of at least 11 inches requires no nosing). Each stringer should be made from a 2x12-inch board of the straightest possible lumber with the fewest knots. You will have additional code factors to consider, such as the minimum width for residential stairs should be no less than 36 inches. Stairs must maintain 80 inches of headroom throughout the walkway. Every landing must have a minimum depth, measured parallel to the direction of travel, equal to the width of the stairway or 48 inches, whichever is less. There is also a detailed code section on handrail construction (although stairs less than 30 inches in height require no handrail). These variable factors are why stair-building is typically left to professional carpenters, but a diligent DIY homeowner can also construct (or repair) a simple outdoor staircase to access decks, porches, patios, etc. by following these basic guidelines. Measure the Total Rise and Run Total Rise: Measure the vertical distance from the top of the lower floor to the top of the upper floor. This is the total rise of the staircase. Total Run: Measure the horizontal distance the staircase will cover. This is the total run of the staircase. Once you have the overall rise and run of the stairs, you can calculate how long the stringer needs to be. You can use a stair calculator or do the math yourself. To calculate the length yourself, you will need to use the Pythagorean theorem, which is a2 + b2 = c2. The “a” and “b” represent the rise and run. Determine the Number of Steps To find the number of steps, divide the total rise by the height of step rise (usually between 7 to 8 inches). For example, if the total rise is 96 inches and the step rise is 7-1/2 inches: Number of Risers = Total Rise ÷ Step Rise Number of Risers = 96” ÷ 7-1/2” Number of Risers = 12.8 Round this number to the nearest whole number. In this case, you’ll need 13 risers. Since you need one less tread than the number of risers, you'll need 12 treads. Calculate the Step Run To find the step run (the horizontal part of each step), divide the total run by the number of treads. For instance, if the total run is 120 inches: Step Run = Total Run ÷ Number of Treads Step Run = 120” ÷ 12 Treads Step Run = 10” Once you know the number and depth of steps, you can work out where your landing pad needs to be. Determine the Angle of the Stringer Determine the angle at which the stringers should be cut using a framing square. Place a framing square near the end of a 2x12 board, leaving several inches at the end before the end of the square. The board should be at least 12 inches longer than the planned length of the stringer. Use the individual rise and run figures marked on the outside scales of the square that matches your desired measurements. These figures should touch the upper edge of your board. Set the framing square on the board so the measurement on the short end (the tongue) aligns with the step rise and the measurement on the long end (the body) aligns with the step run. Mark the outline along the square's outer edges. The angle where the two legs meet will give you the cut angle for the stringers. The angle cut at the end of the stinger will be parallel to the step riser. This is the outline of your top stair. Mark the Stringer Slide the square down the board, making sure to line up the scale's rise and run figure at the top edge. Mark the new outline and repeat the process for each step until you have marked one extra pair of runs and rises. In order to make the bottom step the same height as the others, you need to subtract the thickness of the tread board from the bottom rise. Once you’ve cut your first stringer it can be used as a tracing template for the other stringers. Site Conditions and Adjustments Additional factors will come into play when calculating stringer size. For example: Will the stringer connect to the upper landing flush with the outer frame, or will it be recessed and anchored with hardware? You should understand that this article contains the most basic stair-building guidelines, and that the easiest and ideal stair calculations often become complicated due to allowable space, structural transitions and other such site conditions. In fact, building stairs for your deck or porch is often considered the most difficult part of a construction project. Adjustments to one aspect of the stair’s design will impact other aspects of the stair’s design, and everything must fit mathematically. For example, a shorter rise may be more comfortable to climb with a deeper run. Similarly, a taller rise might work better with a shorter run. Check your local building codes for allowable tread rise and run. To illustrate the challenge of adjusting the calculations, let’s say we’re building a staircase with 13 risers of 7-3/8 inches to overcome and 8-foot total rise. If we apply a 10-1/2-inch step run to the staircase, the stringer length will be 12 ft. 10-1/6 inches, and the stringer angle will be 35.12 degrees. However, if we shorten the step run to 10 inches on the same staircase, it changes the stringer length to 12 ft. 5-3/16 inches and changes the angle to 36.44 degrees. Overcoming these design hurdles to build a perfect staircase is how skilled carpenters make a good living. It’s not always easy, and you shouldn’t let this brief overview of the basics give you the false impression that constructing a new staircase is a simple endeavor. Construction calculators are available with various stair-building applications which simplify the design procedure for contractors. Cut the Stringers Double-check all measurements before cutting and always wear appropriate safety gear when using power tools. Carefully cut along the marked lines. Ensure you make straight, clean cuts to avoid uneven steps. Pro tip: Avoid completing the intersecting notch cuts with a circular saw because the overcut produced by the shape of the blade will weaken the stringer. Complete the intersecting notch cuts with a straight blade such as a handsaw or jigsaw. Note that depending on your design, the step-run measurement might differ slightly from the final tread depth, because the tread may include nosing which would make the board deeper than the stringer notch. A circular saw can be used to begin the notches, but the intersecting cuts should be completed with the straight blade of a handsaw or jigsaw to avoid over-cutting. The first stringer can be used as a template for the other stringers. In this case, this stringer also served as the template for matching composite fascia board to cover each side of the staircase. The fascia board that matches the stringer is cut with the saw blade tilted at an angle. The bevel cut of the stair fascia provides a sleek trim detail as it transitions to the new composite decking. Check and Install Place the stringer in position and check for level and fit. Make any necessary adjustments. Secure the stringer to the staircase frame with the appropriate metal hardware. Make sure it is level, plumb, and properly supported. Typically, you'll need at least three stringers for standard stairs: one on each side and one in the middle for support. Final Considerations Keep in mind that for short staircases, home supply centers sell precut stair stringers that include between three and seven steps. Because the precut stringer design won’t be adjustable, you’ll need to construct the upper and lower landing to accommodate, but this can provide a labor-saving solution for many stair projects. For most construction projects, stringer design is best left to experienced professionals, However, by following these steps, a diligent DIY’er can accurately calculate and cut stair stringers to ensure a sturdy and safe staircase. If you're unsure or this is your first time, it might be helpful to consult with a professional or use stair-design software to double-check your calculations. Construction of the staircase is underway. Note the excavation at the bottom of the stringer where a concrete landing will be formed and poured. The completed deck stairs. -- Side Note 1 Construction Master Pro The Construction Master Pro from Calculated Industries is an award-winning advanced feet-inch-fraction, construction-math calculator with powerful built-in solutions perfect for completing layouts, plans, bids and estimates. Calculate stairs, circles, roofs and more. The Construction Master Pro works in and converts between feet-inches-fractions and decimals, including metric. Use it in the field or office to save time, reduce costs, prevent re-work and maximize profits. Use the Construction Master Pro to complete stair layouts, including riser height and solve for the stairwell opening. Calculator features include built-in right-angle solutions; areas, volumes, square-ups; roof, rafter and framing solutions; circles (including arcs, circumference, segments); drywall panels; studs on-center; compound miter cuts; arched rake-walls. Learn more at www.calculated.com . Side Note 2 Evolution Steel Stair System At the 2025 International Builders’ Show, Fortress Building Products exhibited its Evolution steel stair system components and brackets to provide quick, easy assembly, dramatically decreasing installation time. The stair system's Black Sand powder-coat delivers an aesthetically pleasing modern look on its own or use it with fascia/trim for a more traditional look. As a noncombustible material, the system is resistant to fire and invulnerable to rotting, warping, splitting and pesky insect damage. It cuts down on the number of stair stringers required and eliminates the need of spacing 10, 12 or 16 inches on-center. The system includes three different rise/run bracket options and a fully adjustable stair bracket. The system is compatible with any type of deck framing, even wood, and it carries a 25-year limited manufacturer warranty. www.fortressbp.com

You have read that headline correctly. A new adjustable deck pedestal joist-support system is designed to transform how ground-level decks are built. The Level.Up Adjustable Pedestal System from Bison Innovative Products eliminates the need to dig, pour, and level concrete footers and posts. This reduction in labor makes building ground-level decks a much faster and easier process. “We are excited to introduce the Level.Up Adjustable Deck Pedestal Joist Support System as an industry game-changer that addresses the common pain points in building ground-level decks,” says Jennifer Johnson, business development manager at DAP. “This innovative solution allows for a fast and easy deck build. It’s ideal for the professional deck or hardscape installer, as well as the do-it-yourselfer looking to transform their outdoor living spaces.” The Level.Up Adjustable Deck Pedestals attach to wood joists to build plank decks. They can be installed over existing stable concrete slabs or pavers, without the need to demolish and remove them, as well as over compact soil or gravel.   Contractor Insights Kyle Davisson of Davisson Construction Services, who recently completed a project in Blacksburg, Virginia using the Level.Up system, notes the labor-saving benefits. “This pedestal system from Level.Up saves a lot of time by reducing the need to dig footers, pour concrete, wait for it to cure, set your posts. Everything for this comes in one box, and it’s adjustable,” says Kyle. “You don’t have to break ground with the system like you would with digging traditional concrete footers, and this comes in handy when you have underground utilities like water lines or electrical lines that you're trying to avoid contact with,” he adds. “Also, this system allows you to build a freestanding deck. There’s no need to attach it to the house with a ledger board.” Kyle Davisson constructs a freestanding deck using the Level.Up Pedestal System in Blacksburg, Virginia. Because the system requires no concrete footers or deep digging, it’s beneficial in sites where traditional footings would be difficult or messy to install, such as in high-density urban areas, protected landscapes, or areas with utility lines close to the surface.   The system consists of four components that stack and nest together to support the deck’s joist substructure. The telescoping Adjustable Pedestal can be easily raised or lowered by twisting by hand to adjust for height. Each deck pedestal can adjust from 2-1/2 inches to 5-1/2 inches in height. The pedestals can also be adjusted to compensate for up to a maximum of 8-percent ground slope on compact or solid surfaces by using the Slope Leveler component. One Slope Leveler compensates for up to 2-percent slope (1/4-inch per foot) and up to four Slope Levelers can be stacked under each Pedestal. “A tip for people utilizing this system—just make sure your site conditions are a good fit,” notes Kyle. “You want to start with a fairly flat area. This system will compensate for up to an 8-percent slope, but anything beyond that, and you’ll have to adjust your existing grade.”   The deck’s construction site should be free from erosion risks and be well-compacted. For soil installations, a weed barrier can help maintain stability. Kyle installed the decking with fasteners that remain concealed between the boards. ”Make sure you’re setting these pedestals on well compacted soil, gravel, or an existing concrete pad,” says Kyle. “You wouldn't want to put this system on existing turf. If your site has existing turf, look into removing that first and compacting either the native soil or importing an aggregate and compacting that aggregate before placing these pedestals.” Accessories to the system are available and sold separately to provide additional height, leveling, or deck expansion. They include 1-1/2 and 4-inch Height Adjustment Couplers, Slope Levelers, 1/2-inch Fixed Height Pedestal, Flexible Shims, and a Two-Pedestal Expansion Kit that allows the user to add an additional joist or 16 inches of width to the deck. The system meets IRC requirements for low-rise decks, which often means fewer permitting hurdles and faster approvals for smaller projects, especially in areas with specific regulations. The individual adjustment of the pedestals makes it easy to level joists for an even surface. Manufactured from heavy-duty engineered polymer, the Adjustable Pedestal and Fixed Height Pedestal hold up to 750 lbs. per pedestal. They are weather-, freeze-, and mold-resistant, offering long-lasting performance in many environments. Level.Up is available in a 12-Pedestal Kit, which builds an 8-foot wide x 10-foot long deck using 2x6 nominal lumber. One or more kits may be used for a customizable deck design. Kyle marks and cuts the deck boards to the same length. The Level.Up Adjustable Deck Pedestal Joist Support System (other than Flexible Shims) is backed by a 10-year limited warranty.  It is currently available nationwide at The Home Depot.com  and on Amazon.com , as well as at selected TAL Building Centers in the Pacific Northwest. For more information, visit www.level-updecking.com and check out the video . A mitered fascia board concealing the rim joists provides a finishing touch for the Blacksburg, Virginia deck project. Before / After

by Matt Weber Ever since I learned about a new method to repair drywall, I have been interested in trying it out, just not interested enough to put a hole in a wall. Last month, someone else did that disservice for me, but repairing our dining room wall provided an opportunity to experiment with—and share with HIR readers—this handy technique dubbed “the pumpkin-cut patch.” The pumpkin-cut patch stands out from other drywall repair techniques because it eliminates the need for joint tape, which normally prevents movement of the patch that can crack the joint compound. Using this alternative method, the movement of the patch is inhibited instead by the beveled edges of the patch interlocking with the beveled edges of the surrounding drywall. The term “pumpkin-cut” is derived from the inwardly beveled edges that are supported by the opposing bevels around it—the same way the top of a jack-o’-lantern is cut with beveled edges so that it does not fall down inside the pumpkin. Eliminating the joint tape saves time, labor and materials, however, it helps to have an oscillating multi-tool (a.k.a. “buzz-cutter”) equipped with a plunge-cut blade to make the angled cuts and accomplish the job. Here is how to make the repair, step by step: Step 1 Measure the damage. Step 2 Cut a square patch of drywall that measures a few inches larger than the damage on all sides. Step 3 Use a pencil to trace the square patch around the drywall damage. Step 4 Cut out the damaged area along the pencil line while holding the plunge blade at a 45-dgree inward angle. Step 5 Clear away any loose drywall for a clean cutout. Step 6 Cut 45-degree inward bevels along the edges of the drywall patch. Step 7 A rasp or similar abrasive tool can help to shape the edges. Step 8 Test-fit the drywall patch and adjust the fit along the edges by removing drywall as necessary with a mini hacksaw, keyhole saw, or even the blade (only) of a reciprocating saw. The patch should fit flush with or just below the surface of the surrounding drywall. Step 9 Apply joint compound to the edges of the cutout. Step 10 Apply joint compound to the edges of the patch. Step 11 Place the patch into the cutout, using the compound like glue to adhere it into place. Step 12 Apply a skim coat of compound to the edges of the repair. Step 13 If necessary, use drywall screws partially inserted along the edges to hold the patch in place while the compound sets. Step 14 After the compound dries, sand the area with a sanding block or damp drywall sponge. Step 15 Finish the repair using standard drywall techniques, covering the patch with compound and feathering the edges of the coating thin. Step 16 When dry, sand the patch as necessary to blend with the surrounding wall. Step 17 Once the repair is completed and fully dry, apply primer and paint. Step 18 The repair is complete.

by Tim Deming Natural light has long been one of the most sought-after elements in home design, with evidence of window-like openings dating back as far as 3100 BCE in ancient Mesopotamia. Humans have always been drawn to daylight for both its function and beauty, and that hasn’t changed. We still crave its ability to breathe life into a space, making rooms feel more open and vibrant. Just as importantly, natural light supports our overall well-being, helping us feel more comfortable, energized and at ease in the places we live. While our need for natural light hasn’t changed over the millennia, how we bring it into our homes has evolved. Today, adding a window or skylight could be expensive, time-consuming or even impossible, especially in interior rooms with no roof access. That’s where Solatube Daylighting Systems , also known as Solatube tubular skylights, come in. These innovative, energy-efficient solutions deliver beautiful natural light indoors, without the hassle, mess or cost of major renovations. Whether you’re brightening a dark hallway, adding light to a windowless bathroom or creating a more cheerful laundry room, Solatube tubular skylights offer a modern, low-maintenance and highly effective alternative to windows or traditional skylights. Compact, leak-proof and designed for quick installation, these systems have revolutionized how homeowners bring daylight into their living spaces. What is a Solatube Tubular Skylight? At its core, a Solatube tubular skylight is a high-tech skylight that captures daylight on the roof and channels it into your home through a highly reflective tube. Unlike traditional skylights that require extensive framing and may cause hot spots or glare, these systems deliver consistent, balanced light while maintaining your home’s energy efficiency and aesthetic appeal. Each system is composed of three main components: ●       Roof-Mounted Dome Collector : This dome sits atop the roof, capturing sunlight throughout the day. Advanced optics, including Fresnel lenses and patented technologies, help maximize light capture even during low-light conditions, such as early morning, late afternoon or overcast days. ●       Highly Reflective Light Tube : Inside the attic or ceiling cavity, a tube, lined with a proprietary material called Spectralight Infinity, transports daylight down into the home. This material is over 99-percent reflective, ensuring minimal light loss even over long distances or bends. ●       Daylight Diffuser The light is gently dispersed through a decorative diffuser installed in the ceiling. The result is soft, natural light that brightens the space below without glare or UV damage. Why Choose A Tubular Skylight for Your Home? Homeowners around the world choose tubular skylights for their simplicity, performance and smart design. Here’s why:   1. Natural Light, Anywhere You Need It Solatube Daylighting Systems bring soft, natural light into hard-to-reach spaces, like bathrooms, bedrooms, closets and hallways, without sacrificing privacy or security. They’re ideal for rooms without windows and don’t create potential entry points like traditional windows do. 2. No Structural Modifications Required Unlike traditional skylights that often involve cutting through rafters or reframing, the compact design of the tubular skylights fits easily between existing structures. That means faster, cleaner and more affordable installations with minimal disruption. 3. Energy Savings and Sustainability Tubular skylights reduce the need for electric lighting during the day, helping lower your utility bills. Their insulated design also limits heat gain and loss, supporting the overall energy efficiency of your home. 4. Enhanced Well-Being and Comfort Natural light has been linked   to improved mood, productivity and even better sleep cycles. It also reduces eye strain and provides superior color rendering compared to electric lights. 5. UV Protection and Glare Control Integrated diffusers soften the light and block harmful UV rays, so your furniture, flooring and artwork stay protected from fading and you won’t have to face harsh glare. 6. Customizable Options to Fit Your Style and Needs Solatube systems aren’t just functional, they’re flexible. A variety of optional accessories and ceiling fixture styles let you tailor your daylighting system to match your home’s design and your everyday needs. Available add-ons include: ●       Universal Light Add-On Kit : Provides built-in lighting for nighttime use by attaching directly inside the daylighting tube. It uses the same space, eliminating the need for separate ceiling fixtures. ●       Solar-Power Daylight Dimmer:   Allows you to adjust the amount of daylight entering the room with a simple remote control, giving you complete control over brightness throughout the day. ●       Ventilation Add-On Kit : Combines daylighting and ventilation in a single, sleek fixture, perfect for bathrooms and laundry rooms. It keeps humidity under control while maintaining a clean, uncluttered ceiling. Solatube with Ventilation Add-on Kit Installation Basics: What Homeowners Should Know Solatube systems are built for speed and simplicity. In most cases, installation takes less than two hours, making it one of the quickest and most effective home upgrades you can make. Here’s what to expect: Site Selection:  The best place to install a tubular skylight is wherever you need more natural light. Popular choices include: ●       Interior bathrooms ●       Hallways with no exterior walls ●       Laundry rooms ●       Kitchens or pantries ●       Walk-in closets A certified Solatube Premier Dealer can help you evaluate the layout of your home and determine the most effective location for installation. Roof Type Compatibility: The tubular skylights can be installed on nearly any type of residential roof, whether shingle, tile, metal or flat. Custom flashing kits ensure a leak-proof seal, regardless of material or slope. Finish Options: Solatube International offers a variety of decorative ceiling fixtures  to complement your interior design, as well as optional add-on features to select. Maintenance and Longevity The tubular skylight systems are engineered for durability and virtually maintenance-free performance. The sealed design keeps out dust, bugs and moisture, while the high-quality materials ensure years of reliable operation. An occasional wipe-down of the diffuser is typically all that’s needed. Plus, most systems come with industry-leading warranties, giving homeowners peace of mind. A Bright Idea for Today’s Homes As more homeowners focus on health, energy efficiency and functional design, tubular skylights stand out as a smart, practical solution. They deliver the benefits of natural light, better visibility, improved mood and lower energy use, without the cost or complications of traditional skylights. -- About the author: Tim Deming is director of retail marketing, Solatube International Whether you're updating a space to improve everyday comfort, boost resale value or reduce your reliance on electric lighting, Solatube International offers a straightforward, effective way to make your home brighter and more livable. To learn more about Solatube Daylighting Systems and to find a Solatube Premier Dealer near you, visit solatube.com/residential .

By Eric Paolucci There’s something rewarding about a well-kept yard in the summer. However, while the warm season invites us outside, it’s also the time when outdoor issues quietly build up: clogged drains, unruly roots, or water that doesn’t have a place to go. From storm drains to sewer lines, at Zoom Drai n, we see firsthand how outdoor maintenance, or the lack thereof, can impact your home and garden. The good news is, many of the most common yard-related problems are preventable with a few simple tips and tricks.   Keep Water Moving in the Right Direction One of the most important, and often overlooked, parts of your outdoor system is how your home handles rainwater. You may think you know how to clean your gutters, but what about other hidden areas? Downspouts and rain leaders can be a hidden place for water to gather, which can lead to long-term damage. Rain leaders are the pipes that carry water from your gutters into your underground drainage system. If they’re disconnected, clogged, or damaged, water can pool near your foundation, leading to cracks, erosion, or even basement flooding. Every few weeks, walk around your house after a rainfall or while running a garden hose. If water backs up or bubbles out where it shouldn’t, that’s a sign you may need to clear a clog or check the connection. This quick check could save you from major repairs later. Be Smart About Landscaping Summer is prime time for planting, but before you break out the shovel, consider where and what you’re planting. Some trees and shrubs have aggressive root systems that seek out moisture. These roots can end up in your sewer lines or drain pipes, causing slow backups that homeowners may not notice until things get messy. To avoid root invasion, choose non-invasive plants near drainage lines, and when in doubt, install a root barrier. It’s also a good idea to keep garden beds sloped away from your home so that rainwater runs off instead of soaking into the foundation and causing damage.   A tree-root barrier prevents the spreading of underground tree roots which results in damage to nearby structures such as drainpipes, sidewalks and driveways. A high-density polyethylene (HDPE) root barrier buried around the base of the trunk redirect roots without harming the tree or surrounding plant life. It acts as a waterproof seal to prevent the loss of moisture in soil while protecting foundations, utility piping, hardscape and pavement from damage. Give Your Yard Drains a Once-Over Many homes have catch basins or yard drains installed in low points to collect water during storms. They work great, until they become clogged. You can maintain these drains yourself with a few basic tools. Remove the grate, scoop out leaves and debris, and flush the system with a garden hose. If water still doesn’t flow freely, there may be a deeper blockage, and it might be time to call in a professional. Tidy Up, But Don’t Overdo It Mulch can help retain soil moisture and keep weeds at bay, but piling too much of it near the base of trees, around drains, or against the foundation can trap water and invite pests. A two- to three-inch layer is usually plenty. The same goes for lawn care, a trimmed lawn is great, but cutting the grass too short in summer can stress the ground and make it more prone to drought and disease. Aim to keep about three inches to encourage healthy growth and root strength.   Inspect Outdoor Faucets and Hoses After a long winter, outdoor spigots and hose bibs can develop cracks or leaks. As temperatures rise and usage increases, those small leaks can waste water and cause pooling around your home. Check for drips, secure connections, and replace old washers or hoses as needed.   A Little Prevention Goes a Long Way The best yard is one that looks good and works well. With a few easy checks and smart planting choices, you can enjoy a safe, dry, and healthy outdoor space all summer long. And if things get tricky underground, you know who to call — get your life flowing today with Zoom Drain. -- Editor's Note: Eric Paolucci is Install Manager for Zoom Drain .

Here are some highlights that turned our heads at the 2025 Kitchen & Bath Industry Show (KBIS), which is North America’s largest trade show dedicated to all aspects of kitchen and bath design. Pfister Verve Faucet Marrying Bauhaus design with Art Deco influences, the expansive Verve collection offers a myriad of handle and finish combinations to transform any space. Infuse your fixtures with a second finish for a dual-tone look, creating a unique custom design. Choose from four finishes to mix and match your signature creations. Spot Defense prevents buildup of water spots and fingerprints, and Magnepfit features powerful magnets that keep your spray head firmly secured and looking seamless. Say goodbye to dangling and messy looking spray heads. www.pfisterfaucets.com Canali Bath in Satin Black With sleek lines and a sophisticated new finish, the Satin Black Canali Bath from Ruvati is made in Italy by skilled artisans from Ruvati’s signature epiStone, an exclusive blend of 70-percent organic crushed stone and minerals with a proprietary resin to create a solid surface with incredible strength and durability. It has the look of natural stone, yet it is silky smooth to the touch with a seamless, non-porous surface that is easy to clean and maintain. The tub and sink offer a thick construction that helps to retain the heat of bath water longer. The Canali Bath in Black Satin is offered in two sizes, both with an oval, double-ended design offering the option of bathing on either side of the tub. www.ruvati.com Arcata Sink The new Arcata trough sink in Native Trails’ NativeStone Collection makes a bold style statement with its modern angular design, lightweight construction, and sustainable craftsmanship. Perfect for bath spaces across multiple sectors, the Arcata is available in 30-, 36-, and 48-in. sizes, and 10 colors, including four new earth-inspired finishes: Forest, Sage, Sand, and Terracotta. Crafted from NativeStone, this innovative material blends natural jute fiber with cement, resulting in a product that is 40 percent lighter than stone and exceptionally durable. It offers outstanding resistance to stains, scratches and cracks, ensuring lasting functionality. www.nativetrailshome.com The Space Step The KBIS 2025 Winner of “Most Functional Find – Gold” was Space Step, a toe-kick solution which can be used in a multitude of ways with the drawer system of your choice. You can choose from different toe-kick options, implement it with different box and runner systems, and combine it with motion technologies. Made to fit a variety of applications, Space Step can be used in three different toe-kick designs. It's also fully customizable, ranging from 5-7/8 inches to a maximum of 9-13/16 inches in height. For all sorts of items from baking utensils to shoes, Space Step brings functionality to the toe-kick space in kitchens, bathrooms and hallways. www.blum.com Vibe Grab Bar Winner of “Game Changing Innovation - Gold” at KBIS 2025 was the Vibe 30 Degree Angle Grab Bar by LifeValet, which is completely customizable and allows access from numerous positions. Tile or other decorative elements can be inserted into the channel in the Grab Bar. Match or complement your decor with contrasting elements. Fully ADA compliant, the Vibe series undergoes rigorous testing and strict quality control and exacting standards. The 304 Stainless Steel is food grade, highly resistant to corrosion and easy to clean. www.lifevalet.com Copper Shower Kits Offering a unique DIY solution to bathroom makeovers, The Copper Shower Company’s copper shower kits highlight the eco-friendly, antimicrobial properties of copper as well as its durability and longevity. The company's KBIS 2025 showcase included a new U-shaped Indoor/Outdoor Copper Shower Kit, a Spiral (Snail) Indoor/Outdoor Copper Shower Kit, new textures and patinas, a Copper Shower Surround Kit, a Bathtub Surround Copper Shower Kit, a Custom Copper Shower Pan and more. www.thecoppershowercompany.com Vera Deluxe Series Sink At KBIS 2025, the Gold-level winner for “Style Statement: Kitchen” went to the Vera Deluxe Series Sink by Top Zero. Designed with versatility in mind, it comes equipped with a variety of accessories on an innovative multi-level tier frame which ensures a clutter-free workspace. Vera boasts a range of unique features, including a built-in organizer drawer and a flexible three-way installation method. The organizer drawer, integrated directly into the sink’s base cabinet, provides convenient storage for accessories not in use, keeping your space tidy. Inside the sink, vibrant LED lighting illuminates the basin. www.topzero.com Ezra Curve Spout Expansion Peerless is adding a contemporary addition to its popular Ezra Bathroom Collection with a curve spout design expansion. With its sharp lines and curvy spout, its specially designed ergonomic handles create a striking visual balance. The Push Pop-Up Drain Assembly is a user-friendly accessory that saves time and money while delivering on-trend details. It works seamlessly with the faucet and comes with all the necessary parts for easy installation. The Ezra faucet is available in matte black, brushed nickel (pvd) and chrome. It incorporates ceramic disc valves, an ADA-compliant handle design, and WaterSense-certified water efficiency. The expansion is featured across the single-handle and two-handle widespread bathroom faucets. www.peerlessfauet.com

Insulation keeps the home warm during winter and the home cool during summer. The right material and application should save energy, reduce utility bills, and help maintain a more constant temperature for a comfortable home. All exterior walls that separate the conditioned and unconditioned spaces should be insulated to create a thermal envelope. A wide range of products are available to totally insulate a building. Homeowners should understand that insulation levels are specified by R-Value, a measure of the product’s ability to resist heat traveling through it. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance. The recommended insulation level depends on the geographic area of your home. According to the Department of Energy, the warm, southern areas of the country should have enough attic insulation to achieve a value of R-30 to R-60. The northern, colder areas of the U.S. require attic insulation of at least R-49 to be cost effective. The amount of insulation required to achieve a certain R-value depends on the type of insulation being used. For example, 3-1/2 in. of fiberglass may achieve R-13, while 2 inches of rigid foam polystyrene achieves R-10. The R-value will be printed on the package of the insulation product so you can easily calculate how much is required. R-Values of individual products can be added to achieve recommended levels. An R-11 added to R-38 equates to R-49. These days, insulation products are designed for each specific use. For the most energy-efficiency, a combination of products can be used to create a total insulating system. This includes products for insulating the foundation walls, exterior walls, crawl space (underfloor), basement walls, floors, HVAC ducts and more. A home's exterior walls should have a moisture barrier and insulation installed upon construction. Other areas of the home that you determine to have inadequate insulation can usually be retrofitted to increase the R-value. The major types of insulation include fiberglass, blow-in, spray-foam, rigid foam, and various types of gap-filling products. The amount of insulation required to achieve a certain R-value depends on the type of insulation being used. Measure your depth of insulation to see if more is required to achieve the adequate R-value recommended for your geographic area. You can find the recommended R-value for your location at www.energy.gov . Common Insulation Materials Fiberglass rolls and batts —Fiberglass insulation is the most commonly used product. It's inexpensive, easy to install, and can be used in walls, attics and crawlspaces. Fiberglass rolls are long, continuous lengths of insulation which are unrolled, measured, and cut to fit specific areas. They’re best for insulating long runs in crawlspaces and attics. Fiberglass batts, on the other hand, are pre-cut lengths available for 8- and 9-ft. walls and are sized to fit between wall framing. Pro tip —If you install additional fiberglass insulation over existing attic insulation, be sure to use unfaced rolls or batts. Once the joist cavity is full, you can install an additional layer of unfaced insulation over the ceiling joists to reduce heat loss through the wood. Fiberglass insulation is the most commonly used product in the USA. Photo © Certainteed Mineral Wool Insulation —Mineral wool is a type of fiber insulation, similar to fiberglass, but is made from natural materials and not glass. There are two kinds of mineral wool available for home insulation—rock wool, which is made from fibers of stone, and slag wool, which are fibers made from iron ore waste. Mineral wool tends to be more expensive than fiberglass, but has proven noise-reduction and sound-absorption properties, and it’s durable and typically non-combustible. Cellulose Insulation —Made from cellular plant material, such as corncobs, recycled newspapers, cardboard, office paper, and other everyday paper products, cellulose is an eco-friendly insulation with an average lifespan of 20 to 30 years. The material is applied with a blowing machine and can settle around and conform to most obstructions in walls and attics. Attic spaces can be overfilled leaving no empty spaces. Loose-fill cellulose is relatively cheap but has an R-value of about 3-1/2 per inch of thickness. Rigid foam insulation —Polystyrene sheets can be used for retrofits in basements and in areas of the home where there's not enough room for batts or blow-in. Sheets up to 4×8 feet are available at home stores in thicknesses typically ranging from 1/2 to 1 inch. The material is easy to cut with a straight edge and a utility knife, and installation is similar to fiberglass batts. Pro tip —Maintain a minimum 3-inch gap between any electrical fixtures and the surrounding insulation. This is a safety measure required by electrical code, and if necessary you can nail wood barriers between ceiling joists to keep the insulation away. Blow-In Insulation Fiberglass is the most commonly used insulation product, available in rolls, batts, and as a blow-in product. Photo © Certainteed. Blow-in (AKA loose-fill) insulation is a good choice for placing a lot of insulation in enclosed walls or in narrow spaces, like between ceiling joists in cramped attics. Blow-in insulation (usually fiberglass or cellulose) can achieve uniform coverage even in hard-to-reach areas, and the job can easily be done by a DIY'er with a weekend to spare. Homeowners can rent machines from home centers to blow in the product. The process requires someone outside the house who feeds the insulation material into a pneumatic machine where it is blown under high pressure through a long, flexible hose as another person directs it into the attic and walls. Note that for small, targeted areas, loose-fill insulation can generally be applied by hand. However, the material comes in densely packed bales which are fed into the hopper of the insulation blower where rotating teeth or prongs at the bottom of the hopper fluff up the cellulose. The resulting feathery texture of the blown-in product achieves better insulation value than densely packed material. Applying blow-in insulation is a two-person job that requires someone outside the house to feed the insulation into a machine where it is blown through a long, flexible hose while another person directs it into the attic and walls. Photos © Owens Corning Pro tip —To fill enclosed walls with blow-in insulation, an access hole can be cut in the wallboard near the ceiling to fill the stud cavity. Once filled, the hole can be patched or concealed with trim molding. Spray-Foam Insulation In seconds, spray foam expands to provide a flexible foam blanket of millions of tiny air cells, which fills building cavities and seals cracks and crevices. Photo © Tiger Foam . Spray-foam insulation is especially popular in new construction when the exposed framing can be filled without obstruction. Spray-foam insulation installs fast and seals, soundproofs and insulates. In seconds, the foam expands to provide a flexible foam blanket of millions of tiny air cells that fills building cavities and seals cracks and crevices. It dries quickly, and any excess material can easily be trimmed away, leaving the surface ready for drywall. Most spray-foam products are dealer-installed and arrive on a truck with complex equipment to seal the entire house. However, some companies make products available to the do-it-yourself homeowner. For room additions, remodels and targeted areas in the attic or basement, check into disposable self-contained polyurethane kits, which are engineered for professional-duty but also easy to use. DIY tip —Spray foam from brands such as Great Stuff and DAP is available in handheld cans for small, targeted applications around plumbing fixtures, gaps in framing, and for sealing windows and doors. For application around windows and doors, it’s important to select a low-expanding product intended for the specific application, otherwise the expanding foam can warp and distort the shape of door and window casing. SIDE NOTE 1 PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Something to note for both pros and DIY'ers.... PINK Next Gen Fiberglas from Owens Corning is ready to fit snugly into the wall cavity right out of the package. It is easy to handle, soft as cotton, and cuts cleanly with a single pass. This makes it easier (and less itchy) for DIY’ers to handle and makes it easier for pros to manage budgets and timelines, enabling up to 23 percent faster installation compared to previous fiberglass products. SIDE NOTE 2 Radiant Barrier A radiant barrier retains heat much like aluminum foil does with a potluck casserole. This reflective barrier can be used in homes to reduce heat transfer like traditional insulation. On a hot day the sun heats a home’s roof and attic, which in turn emits radiant heat to varying degrees throughout the house. A hotter attic means a hotter house, so radiant barriers block the sun’s rays from transferring heat to your attic, reflecting up to 96-percent of solar energy. Less heat moves from the attic to the living area, so there's less need to crank up the air conditioner. Furthermore, this two-way reflective barrier behaves similarly in the winter. According to Energy.gov, “Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates than in cool climates, especially when cooling air ducts are located in the attic. Some studies show that radiant barriers can reduce cooling costs by 5 to 10 percent when used in a warm, sunny climate. The reduced heat gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. In cool climates, however, it's usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation than to add a radiant barrier.”

Building an attached shed can be a great way to expand your storage space while keeping your property organized and clutter-free. Whether you're looking to store gardening tools, seasonal items, or landscaping supplies, an attached shed can help you stay organized and make the most of your available space. This article will guide you through the basics of building an attached storage shed, from planning and design to construction and finishing touches. Plan and Design Your Shed Before you start building, it’s essential to have a clear plan. Take into account the purpose of the shed, the available space, and any local building codes or regulations. Assess the Space: The shed can be attached to an existing structure like your garage or house. Make sure the site is level, dry, with no drainage issues and that there’s enough room for easy access to the items you plan to store. Size: Common sizes for attached storage sheds range from 6x8 feet to 10x12 feet, but you can tailor the dimensions to fit your needs. Design: Create a simple sketch or blueprint of your shed. Typically the finished appearance is designed to complement the existing structure. Make sure to plan for a door, windows (optional), and proper ventilation to avoid humidity buildup in the shed. Check Building Codes: Contact your local building department to check for zoning laws, building codes, and any necessary permits. Some areas may require you to get approval before you can begin construction. We show the basics of constructing a storage shed attached to an existing structure. Materials The materials you need will depend on the design and size of your shed. Here’s a general list of supplies: • Pressure-treated lumber for the foundation framing • Regular lumber for wall and roof framing • Plywood or OSB for the walls, roof, and floor • Siding and accessories • Roofing materials (underlayment, roll roofing, shingles, metal panels, etc.) • Gravel or concrete for the foundation (if needed) • Screws, nails, and other fasteners • Hinges and door hardware • Caulk or sealant for weatherproofing Build the Foundation If your shed is designed with a constructed foundation, then that’s where you should begin. For smaller garden tool sheds, using pressure-treated wooden skids as a foundation is an easy and effective choice. Lay the skids flat and level, and ensure they are anchored securely. Even if the lumber is rated for ground contact, we recommend using concrete pavers to separate the lumber from the ground. Our shed was built with post-and-beam construction opposite a ledger board anchored to a concrete brick wall. For a more solid foundation, build forms and pour a concrete slab for the shed to rest on. This is a more involved process and requires mixing and pouring concrete. Our simple storage shed was framed without a foundation and incorporated a gravel floor after construction was complete. The gravel covers any dirt or mud while providing stable footing for storage of a riding mower, wheelbarrow, etc. Frame the Shed Once your foundation is ready, begin framing the shed. This involves building the floor, walls, and roof structure. On the shed pictured, we used the existing building as one of the shed walls and erected two pressure-treated corner support posts, anchored in concrete, to frame the opposite wall. Along the concrete block wall of the existing building, we installed a 2x8 roof ledger board using masonry anchors. We also fastened vertical 2x4 supports to the brick wall beneath it to give more load-bearing strength to the ledger board. The 2x4s are anchored to the wall and extend from the ledger down to a concrete shelf along the foundation. Note that if you aren’t tying your shed into an exiting concrete wall, then you should frame this back wall the same as any other wall. We anchored vertical 2x4s to the wall beneath the ledger to provide additional support. We used structural screws to anchor a level 2x8 rim joist across the 4x4 posts a few inches lower than the ledger. (Minimum roof slope is usually 2/12.) The ledger board and the parallel rim joist support the 2x6 rafters of our simple slant roof. A 2x2 nailing block fastened along the lower edge of the ledger provided a shelf to assist when positioning the rafters along the ledger. It’s a good idea to use metal rafter ties to lock the rafters into place tightly. We spaced the rafters 24 inches apart and let them cantilever across the opposite rim joist. Build the wall frames on the ground by attaching vertical 2x4 studs to the 2x4 horizontal top and bottom plates. Space the studs 16 inches apart. Incorporate the frames of windows or doors into the wall frames as needed. Use a square to ensure each wall frame is 90 degrees and in plane. Once the walls are built, lift them into place and secure them to the 4x4 posts and to the existing structure (which required concrete screws, in our case). You’ll want a helper for this step, as the walls can be heavy and unwieldy. You can incorporate 2x6 band joists at the bottom of the walls to help with fastening and support. The rafters extended from the ledger to cantilever over the beam and posts. We framed the walls on the ground to be moved into place. A 2x2 screwed along the bottom of the ledger can provide a shelf to help position the ends of the rafters. A helper will be required to move the walls into position and fasten them in place. Roofing After the roof and walls have been framed, fit 3/4-in. plywood sheathing over the roof frame, staggering the seams between the courses of panels. Align the edges carefully and insert 1-5/8-in. screws, every 8 inches along the rafters. Leave no gaps between panels. Cover the sheathing with roofing felt before installing the roof covering. Cap nails will hold the roofing underlayment in place without tearing out. You can follow the underlayment with shingles, metal panels, or simple roll-roofing as we used for this shed. This will ensure your shed is waterproof and well-insulated. For roll roofing, lay the material in courses beginning at the lowest edge of the roof working toward the highest. Each course should overlap the course beneath it by at least 3 inches, and the overlapped seams should be sealed with asphalt plastic cement. Stagger the seams between courses of roof sheathing. Double the rafters if necessary to provide an adequate nailing surface where two roof-sheathing panels meet. Attach the roofing felt with cap nails. Cladding Depending on the design of your shed, it may be time to install the wall sheathing (plywood or OSB) by nailing or screwing it onto the wall frames, then follow up with siding installation. For the rugged utility shed shown here, we went with 4x8 LP SmartSide composite siding panels with a vertical board-and-batten pattern. This material is designed to stand up to weather and moisture, but the panels can be cut to size with a circular saw just like wood, and they’re strong enough to be nailed directly to the studs, making additional sheathing unnecessary. Before installing the panels, we nailed L-shaped aluminum drip edge along the bottom band joists to ensure a proper drainage plane. Install 2x8 band joists to enclose the structure and provide a nailing surface for the cladding. Nail aluminum drip edge to the lower band joists before installing the cladding. We nailed LP SmartSide cladding directly to the wall studs. Caulk all seams and fill all nail holes. Wipe away any excess sealant before painting. We enclosed the eaves and installed trim boards. Since this was an office building, the shed was finally covered with simple roll roofing, but shingles and metal panels are alternatives. Doors We installed level 2x8 band joists along the tops of the wall studs to strengthen the structure, provide a cap for the siding panels, and provide a nailing surface for the siding fill-ins above the wall frames. You will have many options when it comes to doors, but our double-door was built on site by framing up 2x4s and cladding them with the same SmartSide panels we used on the walls. We installed the doors with heavy-duty gate hinges and gate hardware. The double-door was framed on site from 2x4s and covered with the same siding that we used for the shed, then we installed it like a fence gate using gate hardware. Weatherproof and Finish Once the structure was complete, we added decorative trim and enclosed the eaves with OSB and a fascia board. Although the shed is an unconditioned space, you still need to caulk all seams and fill the nails holes with exterior-grade spackling to protect against rain and moisture, which will in turn cause mold and material deterioration. Using a damp rag can help to shape and clean any excess caulk or sealant from the building envelope. The cladding panels are sold pre-coated with a coat of primer, so once everything was sealed up, we painted the shed to match the existing building. Organize the Shed’s Interior After construction is complete, it’s time to organize the inside of your shed. Here are some ideas for maximizing storage: Shelving: Simple right-angle metal brackets from a hardware provide an easy way to install shelves along the walls to store smaller items. Pegboard: Hang a pegboard on the walls to organize hand tools and keep things easily accessible. Hooks and Racks: Add hooks or racks for hanging gardening tools, ladders, or other items. Storage Bins: Use plastic bins to store seasonal or less frequently used items to keep them organized and protected from dust and insects. Wrapping Up Building an attached storage shed is a rewarding project that can help you make better use of your space, store items securely and protect them from the weather. By planning ahead, choosing the right materials, and tailoring these basic instructions to your own design, you'll be able to construct a functional and attractive shed that complements your home or office. -- Editor’s Note: Design and construction of the shed shown in this article appears courtesy of Caleb and Randy Stephenson of Core Resources. Contact them at Coreresourcesal@gmail.com or (205) 612-9021.

By Matt Weber Every once in a while, my friend Randy Stephenson, an expert remodeling pro with Core Resources in Birmingham, Alabama, will send me a “pro tip” to share with our readers. His latest tool storage hack makes a great space-saving solution for anyone with hand tools they need to organize. This is also a budget-friendly project, because the materials required are limited to a 2x4 backer-board, a few U-shaped fencing staples, and some double-arm pegboard hooks. Double-arm pegboard hooks? Yes, those thin metal hooks commonly used to organize pegboards are often rated to hold 40 lbs. each. They’re available in 4- and 6-inch versions and are sold in packs of ten for around 15 bucks. The storage rack photographed here consists of eight hooks, which equate to 320 lbs. of tool-carrying capacity in a very small space. Pegboards generally occupy much more wall space than this simple rack, which is why Randy came up with the 2x4 approach. How to do it: Cut your 2x4 backer board to length and draw a center line down its length. The board should probably be at least about 20 inches, which is long enough to cross two wall studs while allowing space for wall anchors at the ends. Mark placement of your tool hooks along the board, spacing them equally. The rear of each hook has four prongs. The two inner prongs are angled down toward the floor to brace against a vertical surface. The two outer prongs are angled upward to hook into a pegboard. Use a hammer to tap the back of the outer hook prongs along the center line of the board, so the impact of the outer prong tips indents the 2x4 where the tool hooks will be inserted.   Repeat this along the length of the board to mark placement of all the hooks. Next, Randy used a hammer and anvil to bend the outer hooks backward in line with the double arms, so that they pointed to the rear of each tool hook. Repeat this for all the tool hooks so the outer prongs are all straightened out (but leave the inner hooks in their angled position). Fasten the hooks by hammering the straightened outer prongs into the board at each location until the bent inner prongs are flush with the board. Strengthen the connection by driving a U-shaped fencing staple into the board over the center of each hook. Secure the connections with a high-quality adhesive. Repeat for each hook. Once completed, make sure the storage rack is screwed securely into at least two wall studs, or mounted securely into block or concrete with the appropriate concrete anchors. Thanks, Randy! -- You can contact Randy and Caleb Stephenson at Core Resources: Coreresourcesal@gmail.com  / 205-612-9021

By Kim Drew If you’ve been around the construction or lumber business for any amount of time, you’ve probably bumped into this alphabet soup before: an SPF or SPFs notation on the grade stamp. And maybe you’ve even had someone tell you there’s a big difference in strength, or that you should always go with SPF over SPFs. Well, it's time to set the record straight, because those old myths just don’t hold up anymore.   Grab a cup of coffee (or your favorite energy drink), because we’re diving into some long-overdue truths about SPFs-stamped lumber and why, if you're a builder, contractor, or just a hands-on DIY'er, SPFs might actually be the smarter, stronger, and more local choice. Why SPFs Lumber Is the Clear Choice Over SPF: Clearing Up the Confusion Once and For All   First Things First: What Even Is SPFs? Let’s decode this lumber lingo. SPF stands for Spruce-Pine-Fir, which is a grouping of similar softwood species. SPFs stands for Spruce-Pine-Fir south. What’s the difference? It’s not the type of tree. It’s where the tree grew. The little “s” at the end tells you that the lumber was milled from logs harvested in the United States, south of the Canadian border. No “s”? That lumber is 100-percent from Canadian trees. Simple, right? Well, it should be. But this one-letter difference has caused decades of confusion.   Is Canadian SPF Stronger? This myth has been floating around the industry for more than 30 years, ever since new lumber strength values were implemented separately in the U.S. and Canada.   Here’s what really happened: back in the early ’90s, both countries decided to re-test the strength of their lumber. The U.S. went through its own sampling and testing protocol, and Canada did the same. As a result, the SPFs grouping ended up with slightly lower design values than SPF, even though—get this—they're often the exact same tree species, sometimes growing just yards apart, separated only by a line on a map.   “The idea that the same tree species growing within feet of each other, but separated by a border, and one being considered stronger, is absolutely ridiculous,” says Jeff Easterling, president of the Northeastern Lumber Manufacturers Association (NELMA). And he’s right.   Let’s Talk Numbers (and Real-Life Applications) There are six lumber properties that testing assigns strength values to: Fiber bending Tension parallel to grain Horizontal shear Compression parallel to the grain Compression perpendicular to the grain Modulus of elasticity (a.k.a. how flexible the board is)   As stated above, yes, SPFs has different design values than SPF. But here’s the real kicker: For almost every typical construction use—especially repetitive use applications such as framing, wall studs, joists, and rafters—SPFs more than does the job. It’s not inferior, it’s just measured differently. If you’re doing basic framing work, SPFs is right there in the sweet spot of strength, usability, and availability.   SPFs is Graded Exactly the Same as SPF Here's where some more confusion creeps in. People assume the grading systems are different between the U.S and Canada, but they’re not. Whether it's SPF or SPFs, construction-grade lumber (Select Structural, No. 1, No. 2, etc.) is graded using the same National Grading Rule criteria, administered by the American Lumber Standard Committee.   Translated: a No. 2 SPFs board is graded exactly the same way as a No. 2 SPF board. The standards, the quality control, the inspection—identical. The only difference is where the tree grew, and how that particular country did its strength testing.   SPFs is Already Everywhere—You Just Might Not Know It Don’t let anyone tell you that SPFs is some fringe product only used by Northeast or Great Lakes traditionalists. Far from it.   Each year, about 2 billion board feet of SPFs lumber is produced and shipped throughout the U.S. from mills in the Northeast and Great Lakes regions. That’s a lot of framing, roofing, decking, and more happening with good ol’ American-grown SPFs. And get this: Another 500 million board feet of SPFs lumber is actually produced in Canada. Yep. Canadian mills are also churning out SPFs-stamped lumber from logs harvested in the U.S. That alone should tell you how arbitrary this line-in-the-sand difference really is.   So, Why Pick SPFs? Here are a few rock-solid reasons: It’s American-Made. In an era when more folks want to support local and domestic products, SPFs is the obvious choice. It’s manufactured from logs grown and harvested right here in the U.S.A. Supporting the production of SPFs lumber translates directly to supporting United States lumber mills and their employees. It Works Perfectly for Standard Building. Whether you’re building a home, a shed, or a home addition, SPFs has the strength you need. For repetitive framing systems, like wall studs or roof trusses, SPFs checks every box. It’s Held to the Same Standards. SPFs lumber is graded to the exact same structural criteria as SPF. You're not getting a "lesser" product, you're getting a locally tested, locally proven one. It’s Readily Available. Two billion board feet is a huge number. This lumber is in active use in most parts of the country, and your local yard is likely to have it ready to go. It Helps End Confusion. When you choose SPFs and understand what it actually represents, you're helping push back against decades of misinformation in the building industry. Knowledge is power, and this knowledge supports local economies.   The Bottom Line: Don’t Be Fooled by One Letter At the end of the day, SPFs is not just “good enough”—it’s the right choice for thousands of building applications. The myth that it's weaker or unfit for structural use is outdated, unfounded, and unsupported by the real facts.   If you’re a builder, contractor, or even a weekend DIY'er, understanding SPFs can help you make smarter purchasing decisions—ones that benefit your project and your bottom line.   Want to learn more and see the numbers for yourself? NELMA has released a free brochure titled The Facts About SPFs-Stamped Lumber  to set the record straight. You can snag a copy at www.nelma.org .   Because when you strip away the misinformation and dig into the data, SPFs is more than just solid lumber: It’s a solid choice.

By Ben Johnson Tariffs, if implemented, are likely to have a significant impact on the construction industry and the cost of home construction in the United States. The largest expenditure when constructing a home is framing materials, primarily lumber and steel. The majority of the imported lumber used in U.S. home construction comes from Canada and is currently tariffed at a 14.54-percent rate, but this could rise by an additional 25 percent if current tariff exemptions on this product are revoked. Currently, all steel imports coming into the U.S. are charged a minimum 25-percent tariff. The largest providers of steel to the U.S. are Canada, Mexico, and Brazil.   Other major home construction expenditures also rely heavily on imported products to meet demand. Concrete is sourced domestically, but also from Mexico. Roofing materials, siding, windows, and doors can all be sourced domestically, but much of this supply currently comes from Canada and China. Many plumbing and electrical components are imported from China, Mexico, Germany, and Canada, and many HVAC systems are imported from Mexico, China, and South Korea.   The U.S. is imposing a 145 percent tariff on most goods imported from China, 10 percent on goods from South Korea, the European Union, and Brazil, and up to 25 percent on Canadian and Mexican goods that are not specifically excluded from the recently imposed reciprocal tariffs. Many of these tariffs would be even higher if not for Trump's recent 90 suspension of the reciprocal tariffs announced on April 2nd. Given the magnitude of these new tariffs, there is no question that housing will be more expensive to build, maintain, and improve for Americans in the coming months.    Tariffs on the import of foreign goods and materials could over time make manufacturing in the U.S. more economic relative to importing goods from abroad, which could be good for some industries. But in the short to medium term, these tariffs are likely to drive inflation significantly higher and cause significant disruption to the global supply chain, threatening many U.S. jobs at manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers who rely on the global supply chain to source the components, raw materials, and finished products they sell. Higher tariffs will certainly cause prices to rise for U.S. consumers, as tariffs drive up the cost of the product being imported and these costs must be passed on to the customer.  This threatens not only to spur inflation but may lower overall consumption, slowing the economy.    What contractors can do to navigate around this:   Look for domestic substitutes. Fortunately for contractors, most of the materials used to build a conventional home are currently produced in the United States.  Unfortunately for contractors, there is not nearly enough domestic production capacity to meet demand for these materials. In addition, many domestically sourced materials may not be of the same quality as imported items. This is especially true for certain types of wood and stone that can’t be grown or quarried in the U.S. It is also true for some high-end machinery and appliances which are not currently manufactured domestically. As a result, we expect prices to rise and both domestic and foreign produced materials. Seek suppliers from lower tariff countries.  There is a wide range in the size of the tariffs that have been implemented, leaving room for importers to seek out suppliers in less affected jurisdictions. The European Union for example currently carries only a 10-percent tariff while China’s tariffs stand at 145 percent. While the cost of production in Europe is certainly higher, lower shipping costs and tariffs may make certainly European materials seem affordable relative to similar products from higher tariffed countries. Partner with others to place larger orders and obtain volume discounts.  Contractors should consider partnering with owners of similar businesses to place larger orders of staple materials. Larger orders may receive discounts on pricing and shipping costs, and if inflation begins to pick up again, having significant inventory on hand may allow a contractor to earn additional income on the up-sell of products ordered in bulk. Consider vertical integration.  Contractors might consider producing certain materials themselves or working with a local group to form a small production facility to produce staples that are relatively easy to manufacture. About the author: Ben Johnston, COO of Kapitus , a small business lender and marketplace