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Is your air conditioning system acting up, leaving you feeling hot and bothered? It's time to take charge and restore the cool comfort of your space! This infographic is packed with insights that will equip you with the knowledge to effectively diagnose and address common AC problems. This AC repair checklist solves those pesky cooling system problems for homeowners, renters, and DIY enthusiasts alike. Say goodbye to sweltering in the summer heat or dealing with a faulty AC unit that disrupts sleep. From deciphering unusual sounds and tracking down mysterious drips to conquering problems of inadequate air circulation and unpredictable cooling, we leave no stone unturned. This infographic highlights common air conditioning issues and offers tips and techniques to fix them. Remember, regular maintenance is key to extending the lifespan of your air conditioning system and avoiding costly repairs. In addition to providing you with the essential AC troubleshooting and repair knowledge, we want to emphasize the importance of maintenance plans in ensuring your unit's longevity and optimal performance. Don't overlook this crucial aspect! Say goodbye to sweltering heat and hello to a perfectly cool and comfortable home. Editor's Note: Maria Klesser is a content marketing specialist for Paragon Service Pros, with a focus on creating informative and engaging articles about heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. With 5 years of experience in the industry, she brings a unique perspective to her writing, combining her technical knowledge with her passion for helping homeowners understand how their HVAC systems work.

A great fence is one that does the job you want and stands the test of time. It’s beautifully designed, complements the home, and remains straight and solid for years and years after it’s installed. The experts at Great Southern Wood Preserving Co., the makers of Yellawood pressure-treated lumber, offer these insightful secrets to building the best fence. Ensure solid grounding. Setting posts in concrete footings secures them firmly in place. It’s good practice to extend each footing above ground and to taper the top (like a cone). The taper will ensure that water drains away from the posts. Concrete is crucial beneath large double gates because the leverage imposed by the gates on the posts can pull their tops toward the middle, causing the gates to bind. Insist on high-quality lumber. “With good design and attention to detail, treated Southern pine makes a long-lasting and attractive fence,” says Ambler, Penn. contractor Mark Clement. “It’s also visually and physically substantial.” High-quality treated wood has a natural beauty that requires no coating, but it can also be stained or painted to match the home. Seal all end cuts. If you look at the end of a board under a microscope, it looks like a bundle of drinking straws. So, it’s no surprise that’s where water will most likely be sucked into the grain. Sealing field cuts with a copper naphthenate preservative is always a good idea. Monroe, LA contractor Mike Davis, a restoration specialist with 30 years’ experience, goes a step further and seals the end of every board in each fence. Bevel all horizontal surfaces. Many fences include copper-clad post caps, but if you’re not using caps, it’s a good idea to cut the post top so that it sheds water. Less common but also very helpful is to bevel the tops of all the rails—top, middle, bottom—for the same reason. Build in drainage. This is a detail very few fence builders even know about. Installing a drainage mat wherever two boards are sandwiched together goes a long way toward reducing the chance of rot. Use a landscape reinforcement fabric stapled to the back of the horizontal stringer. The mat compresses tightly enough to permit a secure connection between the two boards while leaving just enough gap for the board to dry out. Space wet fence pickets tightly. When building a stockade fence, it is equally important to butt wet pickets together. Just as with deck boards, some shrinkage will occur as the pickets dry. By butting the pickets together during construction, you will minimize the gap left between the pickets after they dry. Drill pilot holes. When nailing or screwing near the edge or end of a board, pilot holes will help minimize splitting. Use corrosion-resistant fasteners. YellaWood® preserved wood products are designed for long-term performance in outdoor applications and, therefore, require require high-quality, corrosion-resistant nails, screws and other fasteners. Apply a weather-resistant finish. Any exposed wood, pressure treated or not, should be protected from the weather. Application of a quality, clear water repellent or semi-transparent stain that contains a water repellent will help minimize the cycles of moisture take-up and loss the wood goes through outdoors. One of these products should be applied as soon as possible after construction is completed. First, thoroughly clean your project. A clear water repellent can then be applied. If you choose to use a semi-transparent stain that contains a water repellent, you need to first check that your project is surface dry to assure proper penetration of the stain. This can be tested by sprinkling a few drops of water on the wood surface. If the wood readily absorbs the water, apply the semi-transparent stain immediately. If the wood does not absorb the water, wait several days and retest. If you've chosen to build with a product that contains a factory-applied water repellent, an oil-based stain can be applied in 30 to 60 days and water-based stains can be applied after six months. For the best results, water repellents should be applied annually and stains should be re-applied as needed. In all instances, follow the manufacturer's directions. Uncommon Practices, Uncommon Fences. Many contractors understand the wisdom behind these details, but relatively few are in the habit of making bevels, sealing end cuts, or building in drainage. If you want that, you’ll need to write it into the specifications, then confirm that the work gets done. The reason these details are uncommon is that they add cost. It’s up to the homeowner to decide if that’s worth the better quality. But remember that “you get what you pay for” is only a cliché because it’s true. Editor's Note: This article appears courtesy of Great Southern Wood Preserving Co. Learn more about building with treated lumber at www.yellawood.com.

A glass rail system is among the more modern trends in deck and patio design. A frameless design with no upper or lower horizontal rail can maximize the view from home almost like having no railing at all. The glass panels are suspended between posts or supported from below by clamps without the need of horizontal rails. Used for years in commercial architecture, glass rail systems are now available as all-inclusive kits for DIY installation, or clamps and panels can be purchased separately for a custom design. Since glass doesn’t bend and flex with the same forgiveness as a wooden handrail, a strong foundation is a must for glass panels. A big advantage of using a kit system is that metal posts and hardware will be included to keep the panels stationary, plus all the measuring and alignment will be prefigured and easier to assemble. If you choose to design your own system, it’s still a good idea to use metal posts which won’t swell, shrink, twist or bend, or to use securely installed wooden or composite posts, as shown on the balcony guardrail in our photos. On custom projects, the posts should be installed before you order the glass, so you’ll be able to take the exact measurements for the panels. When designing your project, it’s a good idea to draw a sketch, indicating where the railing runs will be. Measure the railing runs carefully and note the measurements on the sketch. Record each run individually to account for any difference in spacing from post to post. Be sure to make note of any post collars or associated trim that might interfere with the panels. In general, the glass panels should be positioned so the gap between the panel edge and post is equal on both ends. The gap at the ends is typically around 3 inches but can vary, depending on application. As a safety precaution, the maximum gap between the posts and panels should be 4 inches. Your glass supplier might offer panels in standard heights (such as 36 or 42 inches), but for custom panels, you’ll need to provide their exact linear measurements, and this will depend in part on the size of the clips you’ve chosen. The glass panels should be at least 3/8 inch or thicker. A variety of kits and glass clamps are available in-store and online. Pro remodeler Randy Stephenson suggests that custom installers compare costs when shopping for glass clamps. “Some of the glass clamps we found were very expensive,” explains Stephenson, who installed this custom balcony rail at the Laney residence in Birmingham, Alabama. “We actually found the best deals online and purchased our clamps on eBay.” (Note: Search the terms “glass clamp bracket for handrail.”) The stainless steel glass clamps used on this installation hold glass panels between two rubber pads that help absorb movement and prevent scratching the glass. A hex key (or Allen wrench) is used to loosen or tighten screws which adjust the clamping pressure. The clamps do not corrode or rust, meaning they can be used in any climate. Make sure to order the right sized glass clamp to install a glass panel of the respective thickness. Calculate how many clamps you’ll require for each panel and add them all together to determine your order. Ordering a few extra clamps is a good idea. On the project shown, clamps were installed along the bottom and sides, with clamps located near each corner and spaced 18 to 20 inches apart. “Be careful with the corners,” suggests Stephenson to anyone installing a similar system. “The corners are the Achilles heel of glass panels.” On the project shown, the Stephenson team first installed the clamps with plywood panels, which enabled them to test and perfect placement of the clamps and provide a safety barrier to the balcony while the glass panels were on order from the supplier. Installation Steps 1. To begin the project, measure and mark placement of the glass clamps. Snap a chalk line to help guide a straight installation. 2. Secure attachment of the clamps is absolutely critical to the system. For the bottom clamps, which were set in tile, Caleb Stephenson pre-drilled holes for plastic masonry anchors. 3. Once the plastic sleeves were hammered into place, the plastic rim that projected up from the tile prevented the glass clamps from sitting perfectly flush on the tile. 4. By cutting off the plastic anchor flush with the tile, the clamp was able to fasten tightly to the surface. 5. Start off by disassembling your glass clamp. 6. One half of the clamp contains the base, which should be secured tightly in place with the appropriate fastener. 7. The vertical side clamps should also be measured and marked on the posts. 8. Stainless steel screws that anchor 2 inches into solid wood will make a secure connection for the side clamps. Avoid over-tightening the screws. 9. The first half of the clamps creates a bracketing surface to support the panels. Install the bracket as close to plumb as possible. Once al l the first-half brackets are in place, apply the rubber pads to the clamps, then fit the temporary plywood panels against the brackets. 10. Apply the second half of the rubber-backed clamps and tighten in place. 11. Repeat the procedure to secure all the panels. 12. Once the glass arrives to replace the panels, installation will require at least two people to lift and maneuver the heavy panels. 13. Place two short 2×4 or 4×4 wood pieces on the deck surface and use them to help secure the glass during installation. 14. Loosely apply all the clamp brackets before tightening the compression. Tip: Window cleaner may help ease glass panels into the mounting clamps when adjusting the fit. 16. Shown here is a closeup of a glass clamp assembled with two hex-head screws. Use the “micro-adjustment screw” to fine-tune the clamp compression. 17. Double-check the railing measurements and match them to your panels to complete installation of the glass rail system. Once the project is finished, you’ll enjoy a truly uninterrupted view from your balcony, deck or patio. Editor's Note: Randy and Caleb Stephenson are professional remodeling contractors in central Alabama, who can be reached by email at handyrandyco [a] yahoo.com.

(guest post by Valerie Smith) The summer season is right around the corner and many of us are so excited for warm summer days lounging by the pool side or hosting cookouts for family and friends. If you enjoy your home landscape, you’ll agree that it’s important for us lawn care nuts to keep our grass strong and healthy as the stressful heat of summer approaches. Below are some recommended summer lawn care tips our turfgrass experts put together for your warm or cool season lawn. Be sure to check out our individual summer lawn care articles for zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass, centipede grass and bluegrass or fescue lawns for more details about a specific grass type. 1. Keep Up with Summer Mowing (and Reduce the Time Spent on This Chore) Summer mowing can seem like an exhausting task as temperatures start to get warmer. In some parts of the country, it starts to get outright hot as temperatures climb into the 90s. It can be even harder if you let the lawn get too tall. As your grass continues to grow taller, the lawn mower becomes harder to push. Keep your lawn at its appropriate height to reduce the amount of effort and time spent in the hot sun. Below are the ideal summer mowing heights for a few various grass types. Keep in mind that specific grass brands may require a different mowing height. · Bermuda Grass Summer Mowing Height: 0.5–1.5 inches · Bluegrass Summer Mowing Height: 2.5–3.5 inches · Centipede Grass Summer Mowing Height: 1.5–2.0 inches · Fescue Summer Mowing Height: 2.5–3.5 inches · St. Augustine Summer Mowing Height: 2–4 inches · Zoysia Grass Summer Mowing Height (fine-bladed): 0.5–1.5 inches · Zoysia Grass Summer Mowing Height (coarse-bladed): 1–2 inches A good rule of thumb is to never remove more than a third of the leaf blade at a time. If a larger amount is removed, the grass will stress and potentially turn brown for a short period of time. If you are returning from a summer vacation, you may have to mow multiple times to get the grass back to its desired height. Be sure to wait about 3–5 days between each mowing. One benefit of taller grass blades is that they provide more shade for the root system to stay cool and retain moisture during the hot summer days. 2. Keep Your Heat-Stressed Lawn Strong with the Right Summer Fertilizer With rising outdoor temperatures comes increased soil temperatures and changing soil conditions. Your grass needs different nutrients at this time compared to what it needed in the spring or fall. The lawn will more than likely endure some form of stress from the summer heat. It’s important to feed the grass with the appropriate amount of nutrients to help out with this stressful period by using a summer lawn fertilizer. Grass requires less nitrogen in the summer than it would in the spring when it’s coming out of dormancy and trying to green up. Nitrogen promotes new growth, which will not survive in the heat of the summer and the wrong fertilizer combined with excess sunlight during the summer can easily cause scorched spots in your yard. There are two different recommended fertilizer options for the summer, however you will only need to use one of the two options for summer fertilization. Using both at the same time may result in burns in your lawn. Option 1, Liquid Fertilizer: One example of a quality liquid fertilizer is the Lawnifi® Summer Fertilizer Box, a program designed to give lawns the nutrients they need to survive and flourish during the hot summer months. Each bottle of Lawnifi easily hooks right up to the end of your garden hose for an even spray application. Option 2, Granular Fertilizer: A second recommendation is Lawnifi Foundation, a granular fertilizer option that comes in a 25-pound bag and feeds for three months. With a 29-0-5 NPK formulation, Lawnifi Foundation is a perfect granular fertilizer for lawns and gardens. 3. Make Sure Your Lawn is Hydrated…But Not Too Hydrated Warmer temperatures and more sunlight make it very tempting to water your lawn more often. This is not always recommended as waterlogged soils in warm climates are ideal environments for disease outbreaks. Despite hot temperatures that occur during the summer, the lawn should only need about 1 inch of water on a weekly basis including rainfall. This is best accomplished with one or two waterings a week. Water in the early mornings for longer periods of time, less frequently and take any rainfall into consideration. Watering your lawn in the early morning decreases the dew period. As a result, this also decreases the amount of time the grass blades are wet, which is a helpful disease management practice. If you aren’t sure how to measure 1 inch of water, consider conducting an easy irrigation audit. If the lawn seems to become too warm or starts accumulating scorched, brown spots, consider adding a layer of top dressing to keep it shaded and cool. 4. Be Cautious with Weed Control We advise that you don’t make applications of any herbicides currently. This is especially true for cool season grasses like fescues and bluegrass. If you do, be sure to spot treat each weed or consider hand-pulling them instead. Summer is the worst time for herbicide applications for most grass types. When temperatures reach or exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit, herbicides will damage your grass. It’s best to wait until it gets cooler before applying a post-emergent herbicide to any weeds in your yard. In the future, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring to reduce summer weeds and be sure to apply a pre-emergent herbicide in the fall to keep fall and winter weeds out. If temperatures are consistently below 85 degrees, it’s generally safe to apply post-emergent herbicides for any summer annual and perennial weeds. However, we suggest waiting until it gets closer to the fall season. If temperatures are low one day and exceed 85 degrees in the following days, the grass is still vulnerable to damage from the herbicide. A few common weeds you might see during the summer are knotweed, spurge, lespedeza, crabgrass, goosegrass, dallisgrass, nutsedge and sandspur depending on your grass type. 5. Watch Out for Insect Infestations or Damage This time of year is the absolute worst time for insect invasions. Bugs like fire ants or mosquitos aren’t the only ones to watch out for—there are a lot of insects that can cause severe damage to your lawn. Some of the most common summer insects include chinch bugs, grub worms, mole crickets, billbugs and spittlebugs. Symptoms of an insect invasion differs from insect to insect. For example, signs of a chinch bug infestation include a spotty pattern of patchy grass that almost looks like drought damage. A common way to identify a grub worm problem, on the other hand, is by seeing an increase in burrowing mammals, like moles, that are feeding on them. You can also dig a little in your lawn and spot them that way. June is about the time to apply a preventative insecticide for grub worms because the adult beetles like the Japanese beetle or May/June beetle start flying around and drop eggs at this time. Apply a systemic insecticide like Acelepryn to prevent and treat grub worms. A mole cricket infestation can be identified by their tunnels which push up soil and grass, as well as the presence of brown and dying grass due to mole cricket feeding habits. Billbugs and spittlebugs can be a problem in lawns during the summer as well. Signs of a billbug infestation can often be confused with drought or poor irrigation. Rule out poor irrigation by conducting the “tug” test. Pull up from the middle section of the damaged grass and be sure to grab as much grass blade as possible. You should be pulling from the base of the grass blades. If it comes up very easily, that is a sign of billbug damage. Spittlebugs are easy to spot because they’re usually hopping around the yard. Walk through the yard to disturb them and see if you can spot any jumping around. Another big sign of spittlebugs is noticing a white, frothy substance in the blades of grass or on garden ornamentals. These look like masses of sticky bubbles that are produced by spittlebug nymphs hiding from other predators. Lastly, sod webworms and other leaf-eating caterpillars can be a problem between the months of May and July depending on where you live. Sod webworms do what is called “skeletonizing” a grass blade so that only the veining structure remains. They do this by eating the green out of the blade and leaving it transparent looking. 6. Look Out for Disease in Cool Season Grass Disease outbreaks in warm season lawns like zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass or centipedegrass are pretty uncommon during the summer. They can still happen though—especially if you overwater your lawn during the summer. Cool season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, are prone to diseases at this time. Although certain chemical solutions found in fungicides can cure lawn disease, there are a few cultural methods you can perform to keep disease outbreaks from occurring beforehand. These cultural methods are found in common maintenance practices for your grass type. Overtime, they promote a healthy lawn that can withstand stressors and fight off things like insects or disease. Summer maintenance tips for your lawn are mostly about keeping your lawn healthy and stress-free during the hot summer temperatures. Keeping your lawn healthy during the summer will help it continue to thrive when temperatures eventually cool down and we enter into the fall season. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to the weekly newsletter. Editor’s Note: This article was written by Sod Solutions Content Strategist, Valerie Smith.

(guest post by Sjoerd Bos) Nothing brings your outdoor living room to life like beautifully finished furniture, but it takes a beating from the elements and can look tired after a long winter. Instead of replacing your old wooden furniture with something new, why not take the more affordable – not to mention sustainable – route and refinish it instead? This option is not only better for the environment, it also preserves the value of your initial investment in high-quality pieces. Here are 5 tips and best practices for refinishing your wooden furniture for summer fun. • Select a penetrating formula. Choose a penetrating wood protection formula that will help shield the wood from weather and biological elements, while at the same time allowing it to “breathe”, preventing wood rot. Another benefit is that penetrating products don’t peel and flake off like those that sit on the surface. • Choose your color. Penetrating formulas come in a wide range of colors, and what you choose can either hide or amplify the grain of the wood, depending on whether you prefer a transparent or solid-hide system. It is important to note that higher sheens will typically perform better on outdoor furniture. • Prepare the wood surface. Depending on the condition of your wood and the type of protection selected, you may be able to get away with a simple wash of the surface and a light scuff-sand to prepare the wood for the finish. In other cases, you will need to sand down to bare wood to allow the penetrating coating to dive deep into the wood, providing protection from within. If you’re sanding back to bare wood, start with 80 grit paper to make the sanding job go more quickly, then finish with 180 grit. • Apply the product according to manufacturer’s instructions. Manufacturers have Product Data Sheets that provide exacting standards and instructions for the application for each of their products. Carefully read these instructions prior to starting your refinishing project and then follow the instructions precisely to ensure a successful outcome. If you have questions about the instructions, contact the manufacturer directly or consult with your local retailer where you purchased the product. • Maintain properly. Finally, remember that maintaining your wooden furniture is less costly and time-consuming than starting from scratch. Inspect your wooden furniture carefully each season and look for even the smallest signs that maintenance is needed. To learn more, visit www.sansin.com. Sansin Wood Protection This article appears courtesy of Sansin Corporation, which is focused exclusively on researching and developing environmentally-friendly, water-borne interior and exterior wood products and technologies that deliver outstanding color, durability and performance without the toxicity found in conventional stains. Sansin wood treatments, finishes and preservatives use water, not petroleum solvents, to deeply penetrate and protect wood naturally, from within. Headquartered in Ontario, Canada, Sansin has offices in the Netherlands and Rhode Island and dealer locations in Canada, the U.S., Europe and Australasia. To learn more about The Sansin Corporation, or how to become a Sansin preferred dealer, Visit www.sansin.com.

Check out this year's honorees from HIR's home state in the 2023 Alabama Remodeling Excellence Awards competition, featuring remodeling and custom home projects from across Alabama. Visit http://RemodelAlabama.com to learn more about this year's competition.

From decks and porches to sheds and pergolas, a 6x6 vertical post is a common structural framing component. One of the more reliable ways to fasten boards to the post is by creating a notch. To cut a notch in a 6x6, lay it on a couple of sturdy sawhorses and clamp it in place. At the end of the board, mark a notch that matches the size of the beam it will receive. On a handheld circular saw, set the blade depth to the thickness of the beam. Beginning at the end of the post, make a series of kerf cuts from one side of the board completely through to the other side. Space the cuts about 1/4 inch apart. Continue making kerf cuts until the blade reaches the marked bottom of the notch. Leverage a hammer-claw or pry bar against the bottom of the notch and break the kerfed boards of the 6x6, snapping off the thin wood. Use the hammer claw to remove excess wood, then use a chisel to clean the notch for a tight wood joint. To double the beam, repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the post. Connections can be made with carriage bolts, and the hardware can be concealed with wood plugs.

Planning to build a new house or relocate to a new town? Ever seen the movie Poltergeist? Read this guest post by John Schmidt and plan accordingly! Photo by @mana5280 at https://unsplash.com/ (by John Schmidt) Ghosts, aliens, and cryptids — oh my! Where in the U.S. are you most likely to stumble upon a supernatural experience? To mark Twilight Zone Day on May 11, Lawn Love ranked 2023's Best Cities for Paranormal Activity. We compared the 200 biggest U.S. cities based on four categories. We looked at paranormal sightings, Bigfoot sightings, haunted sites, and paranormal conventions and events, among 14 total otherworldly metrics. See the 10 best (and 10 worst) cities for supernatural creatures and events below, followed by key stats from our report. (Check out these Horrorable Mentions, too.) Key insights: Hollywood haunts: Our top city, Los Angeles, boasts an 11-point lead ahead of New York (No. 2). LA possesses the highest number of haunted sites and the most paranormal conventions and events. The City of Angels is spellbound as the No. 2 best city for witches and No. 4 for vampires. California is also the most ideal state for spotting UFOs. Mythical Mid-Atlantic: Assemble your own Ghostbusters crew in New York (No. 2), which offers 328 cemeteries — the most in our ranking — and the second-highest number of haunted sites to explore. Phantoms have plenty of potential in Philadelphia (No. 6), thanks to the second-best cemetery access. However, Philly falls behind at No. 119 in ghost sightings. Lone Star specters: Thirteen Texas cities float to the top half of our ranking, with San Antonio (No. 7) claiming the third-largest number of haunted sites, followed closely by Houston (No. 11) and El Paso (No. 24) tied at No. 5. El Paso also spooks residents with the most ghost sightings, followed by Austin (No. 13), as well as Laredo (No. 44) and Corpus Christi (No. 83) tied for third place. Sasquatch stomping grounds: Legend has it that Bigfoot roams around the Pacific Northwest, so it’s fitting that Tacoma, Washington (No. 56), claims the highest number of Bigfoot sightings, followed by Seattle (No. 18), Bellevue, Washington (No. 153), and Portland, Oregon (No. 19). There are even conservation laws in some regions of the Evergreen State protecting Sasquatch from potential poachers. Paranormal pursuits: Phantoms won’t find peace in Las Vegas (No. 10), home to the most paranormal societies and investigative organizations, followed by Indianapolis (No. 9). However, supernatural events occur most often in spooky San Diego (No. 4), with the most paranormal sightings, followed by Dallas (No. 8) and — all tied for third place Chicago (No. 3), Philadelphia (No. 6), and Cleveland (No. 30). The Big Eerie: Whether you’re interested in witches, vampires, or ghosts, New Orleans (No. 5) is full of supernatural spirits. NOLA offers the highest number of haunted hotels and ghost tours and is among the top 20 cities for witches and vampires. Helpful links: See where your city ranks Full study article Methodology

(guest post courtesy of Valerie Smith) Conserving water has become a major concern with residential and commercial sites alike. From indoor application to landscape and irrigation outdoors, water conservation has been a goal for many builders and homeowners—and a lot of natural turfgrass is being wrongfully accused of excessive water usage. Although synthetic turf is a rising trend for its environmental benefits, it is quite possible to grow natural grass while still conserving plenty of water. Many irrigation techniques have been made available through modern technology for using less water on plants…even during droughts. Discover a few simple tips for saving water on lawns and how to get the most out of your water and save money on your water bill. 1. Refrain From Overwatering One of the ultimate ways to save a ton of water is to simply stop overwatering your lawn. This is a common mistake many homeowners make as it’s incredibly easy to water too frequently or for too long. After all, the amount of time spent watering your lawn depends on many factors that differ for each household. For example, irrigation systems deliver different amounts of water, and various soil profiles have different water-holding capacities. There’s also the misconception that more water is better while too much water can drown or damage your lawn and encourage disease outbreaks. Many overwater their lawns out of habit by following a regular schedule without taking any weather into consideration. The majority of turfgrass only needs about 1-inch of water per week including rainfall. If the weather forecast states it’ll be raining later in the week or if it’s already rained, go ahead and turn those irrigation systems off. 2. Audit Your Irrigation System A great way to save water is to audit your irrigation system. This will provide homeowners with information on how much water each zone of a lawn is receiving from each irrigation head so that adjustments like moving a sprinkler head or shortening the amount of time irrigation systems run can be made. To perform an irrigation audit, use a few measuring cups or beakers and place them in various locations around the lawn to see how much water is being delivered to each area within a set amount of time. 3. Install Drought Tolerant Turfgrass Selecting the proper turfgrass for your climate is essential for conserving water. Lawns that are tolerant of heat and drought will be less likely to require more irrigation during these warm, dry periods. Depending on the type of grass, it may be possible to even let the lawn naturally go dormant during extreme dry spells to avoid overwatering. EMPIRE® Zoysia, for example, is a type of zoysia grass that will turn brown during periods of drought faster than a St. Augustine lawn will, but when EMPIRE turns brown, it’s entering a state of dormancy as a defense mechanism to conserve nutrients. When regular irrigation resumes, EMPIRE will come out of its dormancy state and return to its lush, green color. On the other hand, when St. Augustine turns brown, it’s dying. Drought-tolerant lawns are incredibly resilient and will bounce back as soon as cooler temperatures and regular irrigation return. Drought Resistance vs. Drought Tolerance “Drought tolerant” and “drought resistant” are terms used to describe different characteristics of turfgrass in relation to their ability to withstand periods of limited water availability, such as during drought conditions. While these terms are sometimes used interchangeably, they have slight differences in their meanings. Drought Tolerant: Drought tolerant turfgrass refers to grass species or varieties that can withstand or tolerate drought conditions without showing significant signs of stress or damage. Drought-tolerant grasses can survive with reduced water availability by going into a state of dormancy or slowing down their growth during periods of drought, and then recovering when water becomes available again. Drought Resistant: Drought-resistant turfgrass, on the othe hand, refers to grass species or varieties that are resistant to drought stress. Instead of simply tolerating periods of drought, drought-resistant turfgrasses have genetic traits that allow them to use water more efficiently, such as reduced water loss through transpiration, or more effective water uptake through their root systems. In turn, this keeps them from entering stages of drought stress. It’s important to note that even drought-tolerant or drought-resistant turfgrasses still require some water to thrive, and proper lawn management practices, including appropriate irrigation, soil preparation, and maintenance are still important for promoting healthy turfgrass growth—even during drought conditions. Here are a few turfgrass varieties that work well in drought conditions: 1. Bahia 2. Celebration Bermudagrass 3. Latitude 36 Bermudagrass 4. NorthBridge Bermudagrass 5. TifTuf Bermudagrass 6. Tahoma 31 Bermudagrass 7. Common Buffalo 8. EMPIRE Zoysia 9. Geo Zoysia 10. CitraZoy Zoysia 11. Innovation Zoysia 12. CitraBlue St. Augustine 13. Palmetto St. Augustine 14. Common Centipede 15. Seashore Paspalum 4. Follow Proper Lawn Care Practices The best way to conserve water is to always maintain a healthy lawn. Most lawns require only 1-inch of water per week, either from irrigation or from rainfall. Deep, infrequent watering will encourage healthy growth as well as assist in avoiding water wastage. Avoid irrigating when the Sun is at its peak, but instead water in the early morning hours. Always watch for stress in your yard and reduce irrigation as needed if overwatering becomes an issue. Spring Tips to Reduce Water Usage: In the spring, it’s important to water more frequently but with less volume as this will establish more roots after cold winter temperatures and before transitioning to the hottest time of the year. Summer Tips to Reduce Water Usage: On the other hand, water less frequently and increase the volume a little bit to build deeper roots. Deeper roots going into the fall season encourage the turfgrass to have a better cold tolerance and hold more nutrients. Fall Tips to Reduce Water Usage: Water the lawn less as temperatures begin to drop. If the grass is watered too much, it could lead to disease during this time. Lawns generally only need about 1-inch of water weekly including rainfall. It’s best to water a little less than this during the fall months, though, because fall is one of the most opportune times of the year for fungus to start appearing. This becomes even more likely if lawns are overwatered or covered with fall leaves on the ground that create areas of shade. Regardless of disease outbreaks, it’s best to water your lawn to prevent drought stress while the grass is actively growing. Winter Tips to Reduce Water Usage: Lawns are living organisms that require water, but they don’t need nearly as much during the winter as they do during other times of the year. However, lawns in areas that experience dry winters should be watered enough so that the soil receives nourishment and keeps grass blades from drying out. 5. Irrigate in the Early Morning Water the lawn in the early mornings—not evenings—as this reduces the chances of disease outbreaks. Fungus tends to grow in areas that are warm, dark and moist, so when the lawn is watered in the evening, there isn’t a lot of sunlight to keep disease at bay. 6. Have a Regular Irrigation Schedule—But Only When the Lawn Needs It It’s important to provide turfgrass with the water it needs. It’s good to follow a regular schedule to keep the lawn hydrated without forgetting, but watering the lawn when it doesn’t need additional irrigation is a waste of water and money. Lawns should only need 1-inch of water per week. Perform an irrigation audit to determine how much water your lawn needs. A regular watering schedule also decreases the chances of chinch bug outbreaks. There is evidence to suggest that irregular lawn irrigation schedules may contribute to chinch bug outbreaks, although it is not the sole factor. Chinch bugs are small insects that can infest lawns and cause damage by feeding on grass blades and stems, which can result in yellowing, thinning, and wilting of the turfgrass. Chinch bugs thrive in dry, stressed lawns, and their populations can increase rapidly under favorable conditions. 7. Adjust the Irrigation System Making a habit of regularly checking the irrigation system to ensure proper functioning will save the lawn from being overwatered as well as add additional charges to the water bill. Things to check for include: · Leaks · Broken Irrigation Heads · Misaligned Irrigation Heads · Proper Spacing · Placement · Operation pressure 8. Use Modern Technology The result of incorrect irrigation techniques often causes concern about water usage in lawns. Overwatering lawns is a common issue that not only wastes our natural resources but also leads to unhealthy turfgrass. Fortunately, numerous modern devices are available for homeowners to monitor their lawn’s moisture intake and set appropriate irrigation schedules. Among the many tools to consider installing are rain-shut-off devices and smart irrigation systems. These simple yet effective devices will detect moisture in the soil and prevent your irrigation system from overwatering your lawn. Choosing a smart irrigation system over traditional water practices will save you time, money and an abundance of water. 9. Level the Lawn Leveling the lawn so there aren’t any pockets of standing water or puddles that accumulate in lower-lying areas is easy and reduces the amount of water you need to use when irrigating the lawn. Areas in the yard that might have an incline likely don’t absorb as much water as they should while the lower areas probably receive too much water. Puddles of standing water not only drown the lawn, but also opens opportunities for disease outbreaks, which is just additional stress on a waterlogged lawn. Standing water also tends to serve as a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Leveling the lawn can be as simple as buying extra soil to level out pockets of lower-lying areas. Regular aeration is also important for improving drainage and reducing water runoff. 10. Collect Rainwater Using a rain barrel to collect rainwater is an excellent method for conserving water for lawns and putting it to good use. Simply collect the rainwater from your house gutters and pump the water out when you’re ready to irrigate your yard. Depending on the type of irrigation system you have, you may even be able to connect your rain barrel to the system for easy irrigation. 11. Apply Mulch Mulching your turfgrass in the spring or fall is incredibly effective for conserving water. The simple application of mulch will protect the plants from drying up and prolong the soil’s moisture level. Additionally, the lawn’s soil will soak the irrigation and rainwater more efficiently. 12. Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn Like mulching, leaving grass clippings on your lawn will encourage moisture retention in the soil. Furthermore, grass clippings act as a compost that provides beneficial nutrients as they decompose into the ground. Be sure to follow a proper mowing schedule to avoid stressing your lawn and smothering it with too many grass clippings. Water usage should not be an issue in turfgrass if proper irrigation methods are used. By following these simple techniques, you can conserve water while still maintaining a healthy, vibrant lawn. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to our weekly newsletter. Editor's Note: This article was written by Sod Solutions Content Strategist, Valerie Smith. To view this article on Sod Solutions website click here.

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Rough-sawn lumber often needs to be squared up to construct everything from doors, trim, wall cladding, and flooring to tables, countertops and window shutters. Even if one face is left with its natural live-edge shape as a decorative accent, the opposite edge should be squared with straight, true corners if the board is to join correctly to any other workpiece. Avid woodworkers might use a jointer to square board edges, but a table saw can also get the job done. 1. Decide whether at least one long edge of your board is straight and flat. If it is, then align the straight edge with the table saw’s rip fence. Make sure the blade is set to 90-degrees, then push the workpiece into the blade to cut off the rough side, removing only enough material to straighten the board’s edge. If neither edge of your workpiece is straight, you must create a straight edge using your table saw. 2. Select a scrap piece of 3/4-inch plywood that is 1- to 2-inches wider than the width of your board and is at least as long as your board. Make sure the plywood has one straight edge. This edge will ride against the table saw’s rip fence while the plywood serves as a sled for ripping the workpiece edge straight. (Ripping is cutting a board lengthwise in the same direction as the grain.) 3. Position the workpiece on the plywood sled so the edge to be ripped is facing the table saw blade, and the straight edge of the plywood is flush with the rip fence. Attach the board to the plywood sled using two wood screws located safely away from the blade. 4. Adjust the rip fence so that the sled/board combination will push through the blade, trimming off any defects while straightening the edge of workpiece. 5. While wearing safety glasses, make the cut and use a push stick to guide the material past the blade. 6. One edge of the board should now be perfectly straight. The workpiece can be flipped around to align the straight edge with the rip fence to square up the opposite side. 7. Repeat the process for all board faces that are out of square. 8. For short workpieces, the square ends of the boards can be aligned snugly against the table saw’s miter gauge and passed through the blade to square the edges. Long workpieces have a tendency to misalign when cross-cut with a table saw. Longer boards will get a more accurate cross-cut from a miter saw or a handheld circular saw guided by a Speed Square. Editor's Note: Special Thanks to Randy and Caleb Stephenson for help with this article.