(guest post courtesy of The American Rental Association) You’ve been caring for your lawn all summer long — mowing, fertilizing, and edging. As the days get shorter and the weather gets cooler, should your lawn care practices change? Absolutely. With different seasons come different methods of care. From using a different type of fertilizer to overseeding in specific areas, we’re here to help provide fall maintenance tips and where to locate tools to keep your lawn healthy in the fall. The idea of skipping fall lawn care may be tempting but with the help of a few rental items and a couple of hours of time, you can enjoy the winter knowing your lawn will return beautifully in the spring. Aerate To improve yard drainage and overall root health, you should aerate your lawn every two-to-three years. Aerating removes plugs of soil to allow water, air, and nutrients easier access to the roots. The process doesn’t take long and will result in a nutrient-dense lawn that can be done over the weekend. A variety of aerators can be found at rental stores across the country to fit all budgets and needs. Mulch Leaves While fallen leaves may look nice, they won’t do your grass any favors. A pile of leaves on your yard blocks sunlight and traps moisture, which are two things your lawn isn’t used to. To avoid damage to your lawn, rake up the leaves often. On occasion, mow over the loose leaves to mulch them into smaller pieces as they will break down easier than whole leaves. To speed up the decomposition even more, consider using fertilizer right after mulching. There are other ways to mulch leaves too, such as renting a leaf blower or leaf vacuum. These two pieces of equipment are helpful when large amounts of leaves pile up in hard-to-rake areas. Leaf blowers and vacuums work by sucking up the leaves and mulching them into smaller pieces, which are deposited into an attached bag. To finish mulching, empty the bag and spread the mulched leaves across your grass. Fertilize Fertilization throughout the fall season is important to boosting grass root growth. You should fertilize twice, once at the beginning of fall and again 6-8 weeks later to provide grass nutrients through the winter. Rather than spreading fertilizer by hand, you can rent one at your local rental store to avoid applying too much fertilizer in one spot. A spreader ensures even distribution of fertilizer across your lawn and applies just the right amount of product. Choosing lawn fertilizer depends on which issues your lawn has. If you are looking to eliminate weeds, a weed and feed fertilizer will help eliminate weed growth while providing benefits of nutrients. To prep for grass for spring, consider a fertilizer made for the last application before winter. Overseed Weeds thrive in sparse lawns, but overseeding can eliminate that opportunity. Overseeding is the planting of grass seed directly into existing grass to fill bare spots, improve the density of turf and thickness of the lawn. The best time to overseed is during fall due to milder temperatures and more moisture. While overseeding may sound simple, it’s one of the more challenging fall lawn treatment tasks. For the grass seed to germinate, it needs to come directly into contact with the soil and have the correct amount of moisture. Another important factor is timing. The best time to overseed is when daytime temperatures are still warm enough for growth and nights are cooler. The seeds will be able to germinate and be well established before it gets too cold. Renting a gas-powered overseeder and other lawn and garden rentals can save time and cost on growing the lawn of your dreams. Equipment Maintenance Once all your fall maintenance is completed, look at the tools you have. By doing a quick maintenance and clean-up session yearly, you’ll keep your tools in shape to work next season. Some tools may require more effort than others before winter storage, while other tools can simply be cleaned and stored. Lawn mower maintenance and storage preparation will be the largest task. The first thing you should do is add fuel stabilizer to what is left in the gas tank. Once that’s done, run the mower until all the gas is gone. This helps clean the lines and prevent any potential engine-related issues for the spring. Another maintenance task is to take off the mower blade to get it sharpened, empty the engine oil, and remove any debris from the deck. Renting tools instead of buying them has many benefits, including skipping maintenance and storage. Tool rental is a great option for those who have minimal to no storage, don’t want to worry about maintenance, or prefer to skip the clutter. For more information, contact your local, American Rental Association-affiliated rental store for available rental products to help with upcoming fall maintenance tasks. Rental stores provide numerous options for all your lawn care needs, including a stump grinder, dethatcher, and skid steer loaders. To locate the rental store nearest you, use RentalHQ or the RentalHQ app on your mobile device. Select a tool in the search bar and enter your location. RentalHQ will list the rental stores in the area along with their addresses, websites and phone numbers. ### About ARA: (www.ARArental.org) The American Rental Association, Moline, Ill., is an international trade association for owners of equipment and event rental businesses and the manufacturers and suppliers of construction/industrial, general tool and party/event rental equipment. ARA members, which include more than 11,000 rental businesses and more than 1,000 manufacturers and suppliers, are located in every U.S. state, every Canadian province and more than 40 countries worldwide. Founded in 1955, ARA is the source for information, advocacy, education, networking and marketplace opportunities for the equipment and event rental industry throughout the world.

(guest post by John McGlocklin) Naturally beautiful hardwoods have graced the floors of homes and businesses for centuries. Even the most stunning wood floors require the proper preparation, materials and installation. In the world of flooring, this means carefully considering the jobsite’s environmental conditions, subflooring, fastening procedures, board sizes and wood species to achieve the best possible results. Moisture & humidity. Real wood has a cell structure similar to that of a sponge and will expand and contract when taking on or giving off moisture. Higher and lower relative humidity (RH) in a home, over time, can result in floor board movement which is why all wood flooring warranties, solid or engineered, are conditioned on RH being controlled between 30 and 55% RH. Large swings in temperature also influence RH and flooring performance over time. Accurate moisture measurements of flooring and subfloor and RH environmental controls are critical to every wood flooring installation. Board Size: In solid strip and plank flooring, the simple physics of wood expansion/contraction means that a narrower 2-1/4” wide board will move less than a wider 5” board. Difficult environments with potential for larger seasonal RH swings and/or limited environmental RH controls are best served by the installation of narrower boards for stability reasons. Engineered wood flooring may be an option, but in very dry conditions engineered boards run the risk of catastrophic failure in the form of face checking and delamination – issues that commonly void warranties when excessively dry conditions (below 35% RH) are determined. Wood Species: Every individual wood species has a unique “dimensional change coefficient” which indicates the widely variable natural stability of a particular wood species. In wider solid wood flooring boards, it is always important to consider the natural stability of the wood together with the expected environmental conditions of the site. Species like Black Mesquite/Algarrobo, Santos Mahogany, Canarywood, Merbau and Tarara Colorada/Bolivian Santos are all naturally stable woods that have lower dimensional change coefficients than domestic woods like oak, hickory and walnut; making them far better alternatives for regions with potential;y higher seasonal variations in RH and/or temperatures. Black Mesquite Proper installation techniques. In addition to carefully considering the aforementioned conditions, installers should also ensure the: · Subflooring is sound, clean and flat per the latest NWFA specifications · Moisture readings of the flooring and subflooring are within 2% MC of each other · Secure fastening of harder exotic wood floors through the use of 18-gauge cleats that will also lessen the risk of broken floor board tongues · Proper glue assist is recommended with cleats for boards 4” or wider to help reduce the chance of future board movements, creaks and crackles Choose hardwoods wisely. Some hardwoods are more stable than others. Many contractors are unaware that some of the imported woods like Black Mesquite, Canarywood, and Santos Mahogany are notably more stable than the domestic woods they are more accustomed to working with. Such woods are generally better for stability options and will generate fewer call-backs on wood floor installs in climate challenging regions and environments, while also providing gorgeous natural look alternatives to the more common domestic woods. # # # # John McGlocklin is the owner, founder and president of Elemental Hardwoods. The company was founded in 2000 to provide flooring specialists, distributors and their customers with an exotic mix of beautiful imported hardwoods, some of which are not available anywhere else in the country. For more information, please visit www.elementalhardwoods.com, email info@elementalhardwoods.com or call 504-756-8876. Canarywood

High-mineral content in your home’s water supply is referred to as “hard water,” which causes limescale buildup in pipes, appliances, and plumbing fixtures such as shower-heads and faucets. Look for symptoms such as white spots on dishes or premature wear on hot-water appliances. Not only can hard water make clean dishes unsightly, but the limescale buildup insulates the heating elements and gauges in the appliances, which reduces the heat generated in the water and wastes substantial energy. Beyond dishes and appliances, hard water is also known to cause dry skin and dry hair because it’s not as effective in rinsing away soap when bathing. Furthermore, hard water may contribute to fading or frayed clothing, because the same damaging molecules get washed into the fabric. If left unchecked, hard water can eventually lower the water pressure in your home as the build-up reduces the inner diameter of your pipes. If you suspect that you have hard water, you should test it to confirm. Here are three suggestions from the professionals at Enercare. Method 1: The Soap Test Find a clear bottle or jar with a tight-fitting lid. Fill it about one-third full with cold water from your faucet and add about 10 drops of pure liquid hand soap. Avoid using anything marked “detergent,” because these products are usually formulated to produce a lather regardless of water hardness. You’ll need to use a plain soap free of perfumes, dyes or detergents. Once you’ve added the soap, give your bottle a good shake, then have a look and see what it does. If there’s a good layer of soapy bubbles sitting on top of fairly clear water, then your home has soft water and there is no need to treat it for hardness. However, if there’s little or no foaming, and the water is cloudy, you probably have hard water. Method 2: DIY Test Kit An inexpensive DIY test kit can tell you how hard the water is. Available at most home improvement stores, the test kits check a range of indicators, including water pH, chlorine, iron, nitrate, heavy metal and bacteria levels. Make sure your kit includes a hardness test along with any other tests you might be interested in. Follow the instructions provided with your kit, which is usually as simple as dipping a test strip into a glass of water and watching for color changes. The kit will include a color chart to determine your results. Method 3: Check with Your City or Water Provider If your water comes from your municipality or a water utility, you should be able to get a water quality report from them. Most municipalities publish an annual report that is posted online, or you can call or email the municipality directly to request one. These reports are often highly technical and contain far more data than just water hardness, but look for information on calcium carbonate, which should be reported in mg per liter (mg/L) or grains per gallon (gpg). If you determine you have a problem, you might need a water softener in your home. A professional Water Management Consultant can visit your home and test your water for hardness and other quality indicators for free, then recommend the ideal water-treatment solution for your conditions. A water softener is an appliance that connects directly to your home’s water supply and removes the minerals that cause hard water. Most water-softening systems do this by running hard water through negatively charged resin or zeolite beads that trap the positively charged minerals. The minerals are essentially replaced with sodium or potassium ions in a process called ion exchange. The resulting water is free of the minerals that cause buildup in your pipes, saving you on repair costs down the road.

Skill level 3 Building your own furniture is the perfect way to get exactly what you want for your home. From the size and shape to design and materials, custom-built items put the maker in control of every detail. Those many details, however, require a great deal of forethought and planning. We offer some basic tips to get you started on your custom build, using this customized kitchen island as an example. Style and Design The basic design of the rustic-style island shown here came from a photo my wife found at an online retailer. You’ll also find islands for sell that are more ornately trimmed and painted, islands made of metal, islands finished with tile, etc. No matter what design you choose, I recommend finding a photo that resembles your idea as closely as possible. Although I didn’t even have my first measurement, simply having a photo of the basic idea provided a simple design blueprint that I could adjust to suit my project. As you flesh out your design, factor in all the components that will be used with the island, including any chairs, hardware or special amenities. Will your island be used for storage, seating, or both? For a simple, stationary island meant for storage, you might consider beginning with a ready-made cabinet base, then topping and trimming it to your preference. In that case, half the work will have been done for you. My wife Shanna wanted to incorporate some bar-stools and wood crates that she’d already purchased. By selecting these items ahead of time, we were able to design an island to fit them, rather than face a more limited selection of bar-stools or crates to complement the look and size of an island that’s already been built. To incorporate both storage and seating, our design needed to be partitioned beneath the tabletop to separate the seats from the shelving. After perusing ready-made kitchen islands online, Shanna came across the photo she liked, which I roughly traced on paper so I could apply my own measurements and adjustments (such as adding caster wheels, etc.). *Note that if you plan for a stationary cabinet-grade island that integrates a faucet and sink and/or a stove, then you’re no longer talking about a piece of furniture but rather a kitchen remodel which will involve several skilled trades and a building inspection. Materials The island shown is built primarily of SPF dimensional lumber I picked up at Lowe’s—the same stuff used to build houses. As a wood lover, I like the deep swirls and high grain contrast of the Southern yellow pine and wanted to accentuate this look with a rich wood stain. However, ours is a very bulky and heavy island that won’t be to everyone’s taste—and that’s okay because you’ll be customizing your own. If you use dimensional lumber, I highly recommend hand-selecting your boards at the supplier, otherwise you’ll likely end up with a number of bowed or twisted boards that will be difficult or impossible to use. A smaller, more ornate island might utilize a higher grade of 1x boards to reduce weight and bulk. You can also save money by constructing with finish-grade plywood, although you should plan to add edge-banding or trim strips anywhere the plywood edges will be exposed. If you’re using wood to build the island base, you might prefer to build with hardwood rather than a softer material like pine. Whereas I fully expect our rustic island to get dented and dinged in my rough-and-tumble household, a “finer” piece of furniture should be constructed of oak or a similar durable hardwood that will better withstand scratches and impact damage. The island’s focal point will be the tabletop, and there you have a ton of options. The simplest choice would be to use a single piece of plywood cut to size, sanded and finished. For low maintenance, you can choose a natural stone such as a polished granite slab, or choose a colorful solid-surface material from brands such as Corian, Avonite, Formica, etc. Alternatively, you can find a wide range of naturalistic and artistic patterns in plastic sheet laminate, which you can cut to size and apply to a plywood surface with a roller and contact cement. Tile is another island-top option, popular for the design flexibility possible with all the sizes, shapes, colors and patterns. On this project, we went with an edge-glued wood top, but even with wood you have a number of options. This top was sanded, stained and coated with polyurethane. It could have been engraved, or surface-burned with artwork, or maybe even inlaid with decorative accents and then encased in a deep-pour epoxy. If you’re going for a unique look, the top is a prime place to show off your customization. Size First thing to consider is what size island will fit the living space, and this will vary greatly from home to home. An island usually needs plenty of walkway and working space around all sides within the room, so determine the shape of the island’s footprint (often rectangular) and its measurements of width and length. It might help to tape the shape onto the floor as a visual guide while you make adjustments to decide the island’s maximum allowable size. Do you plan to incorporate pre-built drawers (or crates, like we did)? If so, factor in the space required to house the drawers or doors, and the space to use them while they’re open. Also, keep in mind the size of any doorways the island will need to pass through. The top of our island is too large to fit through a standard doorway, but we constructed it to detach from the base with a few screws should we ever need to move it to a new location. Next, determine the height, and make it your own. Are you a tall person? Maybe you should build your island to match. A decorative island that is meant primarily for display and/or storage might only be as large as a bathroom vanity and the same height as your kitchen counter or table. If so, just measure your table and build the island to match. Any island that will incorporate seating will need enough height to accommodate the seats, and this is when it’s nice to have those items on hand, because chairs and bar-stools vary in size. For example, the seat of Shanna’s bar-stools measured 30 inches from the floor. I decided to leave 8-1/2 in. of space between the seat and the bottom of the tabletop so people could comfortably fit their legs beneath it. I also had to factor in the thickness of my 2x4 top (3-1/2 inches). So, I determined my island height by adding 30 + 8.5 + 3.5 = 42 inches. You can plug in your own figures and follow the same formula. Seating will also affect the overall length of the island, because you’ll need to leave adequate elbow room between side-by-side seats. Furthermore, if your island will incorporate a partition beneath the top, then you have to leave room for ample knee space in front of the seats. Sketch a rough diagram of your island design and label the measurements and materials as you determine them. Once you know your limitations (maximum height, width and depth) and factor in your requirements (knee space, storage space), you can “reverse-engineer” the design to finalize your plan. As a simplistic example, an island 42 in. high and supported by four table-style legs will require four boards roughly 4 feet long. If you want to build the legs of 4x4 material, which is sold in 8-ft. lengths, then you’ll require two 8-ft. 4x4s to make the four legs. Examine all the island’s building components and apply your own measurements to determine your cut list and necessary materials. Use a Building Template My design included 2x4 trim which framed the outer edge of the island. I screwed together the rectangular frame and used it as a building template, which guided the size and positioning of many of the components within. It also helped to square up the pieces and provide a clamping surface during assembly. Although your design might not include such a frame, I found it to be so useful during construction that you might want to cobble together your own from scrap lumber to match the outside dimensions of your island base. (Smaller boards than 2x lumber could be used to reduce the template’s weight.) Another bonus from using the template: It provides a real-world representation of your island. This was particularly useful when I moved the frame into the kitchen, where I realized it was too large to my liking. By discovering this prior to final assembly, I was able to take the frame apart, cut it shorter by nearly 4 inches, then rebuild it in order to “shrink” my island design. I assembled the 2x4 frame that wraps the island top and used it as a template. I moved it with the leg assemblies into the kitchen where I realized the island was too long. I shortened the template, reassembled it, then used it as a clamping surface to square up the legs and take final measurements for the rest of the island components. Pre-finish the Pieces This suggestion may not to pertain to all designs, but I recommend you pre-finish the building components before final assembly. To that end, I first cut all the dimensional lumber lengthwise on a table saw to rip off the rounded edges and provide a crisper, more “furniture-grade” look to the boards. I then thoroughly sanded all sides in the direction of the woodgrain using progressively finer abrasives. After removing all dust with a tack cloth, I applied a dark Jacobian-toned wood stained, which I let sit for a few minutes before wiping away with lint-free rags. There is no point in wasting time or product on surfaces that won’t be visible after the island’s completion. However, for stain-grade projects, I do recommend applying colorant along the inside edges of miters, butt joints, and other mating surfaces, which will help conceal the seam between the wood pieces. Pre-applying the stain makes it easier to access all the edges and surfaces that need to be treated. Even for paint-grade projects, you might find it easier to apply primer or a first paint coat before assembly, then follow up with a touchup coat after the island has been built. This preparatory step also reduces the likelihood of runs and product buildup in tight corners, which can detract from the overall appearance of the island. Wood Joints Although options abound for your island’s design, wood is the most widely used material for the base of the island, and wood joints must be strong to withstand daily wear and tear. To arrest movement and add durability, use a high-quality wood glue in addition to mechanical fastening at all joints throughout the leg and/or support assemblies, including the connections where the legs meet the island top. Any weight placed on the island as well as any movement from people preparing food or leaning against the edge will stress the joints, and the connections will separate over time if not built properly. Traditional wood joints range from half-lap joints and mortise-and-tenons to dadoes and dovetails. A DIY’er might find it easier to use quality wood screws or even carriage bolts in conjunction with a strong adhesive at the joints. Consider the look of the fasteners when planning your project. To hide screws or nails, plan to drive them from inside the island into the back sides of the visible boards. Finish nails can be set and concealed with wood putty for paint-grade projects. To hide fastener heads on stain-grade projects, consider countersinking them then covering with wood plugs. You can also strengthen wood joints by using dowels or biscuits for a mechanical connection that is completely concealed inside the joint. Pocket screws might present an easier option for less experienced woodworkers, because they can be driven at an angle across the joints using an inexpensive pocket-hole jig to create strong, glue-strengthened connections. For visile fasteners, you might prefer painted screws or bolts to match decorative hardware on your project. On stained wood, black-painted hardware is a popular option which you can order factory-finished, or paint the pieces yourself. Plan how you’ll make the wood joints, because you have many options. I made leg assemblies using 2x4 cross-rails notched into 4x4 legs and fastened with wood glue and 3-in. screws driven from the non-visible side of the boards (once assembled). A strong wood glue such as Titebond will arrest any movement of the joints and should be used at all critical connections. The 2x6 shelves were screwed in place to bridge the leg assemblies. I then turned the entire assembly upside-down, which allowed me to align the top of the plywood partition with the tops of the leg assemblies (on the floor). I screwed the partition to the backs of the shelves. Support the Horizontal Spans A common downfall of a kitchen island is a poorly supported shelf that bows or sags beneath the weight of whatever it carries. This problem is typical of cheaply built store-bought islands, which are often made of fiberboard then overloaded with stuff by the homeowner. Flat surfaces such as shelves and island tops must be built to support the weight of anything they carry, and the more area the surface spans, the stronger the shelf must be to avoid sagging. Several factors are at play when designing support for these surfaces. For flat, horizontal surfaces, I recommend material at least 3/4 inch thick. The thicker the material, the greater length it can span without support. A 32-in. span for a 3/4-in. plywood shelf is pushing the limits for heavier objects, however you have several options to strengthen a shelf to handle the span. One solution might be to laminate two layers of 3/4-in. ply and add 1-1/2-in. shelf nosing. Another option is the addition of cleats supporting the bottom edges of the shelf, which can add rigidity. Anywhere you can add structural support from below, such as a right-angle shelf bracket, will divide the span and transfer its load, in effect strengthening the shelf. On our project, the island had a span of about 78 inches, and I utilized three methods to support the flat surfaces: Middle shelf—I supported the middle shelf with two metal shelf brackets screwed into the plywood partition, which was in turn fastened to the leg assemblies to transfer the load to the floor. Bottom shelf—Hidden beneath the center of the bottom shelf is a fifth caster wheel on a 4x4 cross-brace, which halves the span and transfers the load to the floor. Island top—Since the top was made of edge-joined 1x boards, I strengthened it by laminating 3/4-in. plywood beneath it and also used the top edge of the island’s vertical plywood partition to provide additional support. I flipped the island back upright and attached 2x4 trim blocks to the partition to hide the plywood edges. Here's what it looks like before adding the top. Island Top I made the top from edge-glued 1x6 fastened with pocket screws. To strengthen the top, I laminated 3/4” plywood blocking on the underside to bridge the edge-joints. I also fastened 3/4” strips beneath the edges of the top. The top was screwed in place from beneath the plywood strips. Finally, I stained and finished the 2x4 template and fastened it as trim around the top. Finishing Up I applied several coats of polyurethane to the top for a glossy, protective surface. The end result was a big, handsome, mobile island custom-built to my wife’s specifications. She was happy, so I was too. SIDE NOTE Explore the Countless Options You’ll find a million ways to build a kitchen island. To save yourself some work, consider buying a pre-built cabinet base (or two) and adding your own top and trim package to complete the project. If you’re more into interior décor than heavy-duty construction, you might even prefer a pre-made island (even a used antique) which you simply decorate with artistic patterns, paint, or ornamental trim.

Wood lovers might love the unique “Old West” accents that Randy Stephenson of Cropwell, Alabama, made from rough-cut lumber for a cowboy-theme room at his home. By incorporating the exposed wood grain and natural live edges into the baseboards, ceiling molding, and door and window casing, he gave the room an old-timey feel which he enhanced with a pair of batwing-style saloon doors. "My wife Donna came up with the design of the room," explains Stephenson. "She is the brains, and I'm just the grunt." Enclosing a closet, the saloon doors were comprised of edge-joined boards enclosed by a four-piece rail-and-stile frame. To give the doors their batwing shape, the top rails included a mirrored swoop on each side, which Stephenson cut out with a jigsaw. The door panels were made of individual rough-cut boards, and Stephenson first trued their edges on a table saw to ensure a tight fit to the joints. A feather-board makes a handy table saw accessory that applies pressure across the work-piece and against the fence, so the cut line is held in place and maintains alignment with the blade. To assemble the doors, Stephenson first used a router to cut dadoes (grooves) along the interior sides of the rails and stiles, which encased the panel edges and conceal the end joints. To fasten the panels, wood glue was applied to all mating faces of the corner joints, and the entire construction was clamped together, then strengthened with trim-head screws. Tool Tip: Quality trim-head screws such as the Fine Screws from U2 Fasteners have self-drilling tips and aggressive threads that draw joints tightly together. When countersunk, the small screw heads leave a tiny hole similar to a nail head, which is easy to conceal with wood filler. Looks like a fun and unique project! For the most accurate fit between the edge-joined boards which comprised the door panels, Randy Stephenson first squared up the edges of the boards using a table saw and feather-board accessory to maintain cutting accuracy. Once the edge joints were true, he clamped the panel together and trimmed the sides flush. The top rails of the batwing saloon doors each had a mirror-image decorative swoop. The remaining stiles and rails of the frames were then cut to length. Stephenson routed a dado along the inside center of the rails and stiles to conceal the end-joints of the door panel. The panels were assembled with clamps and fastened using wood glue and trim-head screws. Editor's Note: Randy Stephenson is a professional remodeling contractor in central Alabama, who can be reached by email at handyrandyco [a] yahoo.com. If you've got some nice home-improvement projects that you'd like to share with our readership, please send Matt Weber an email at matt@hirpub.com and tell us all about it!

Total Tape For tricky fastening jobs, try the versatility of Total Tape. It came in handy on a recent project when my wife wanted a “towel ladder” for one of the bathrooms. I whipped one up from some spare cedar because I liked the tone contrast of the available boards. I routed the rungs with a bullnose so they wouldn’t snag the towels, clear-coated everything, then fastened them between the rails with finish nails, brads, and Titebond wood glue. Simple. But how should I mount it to the wall? I wanted the ladder rack to remain flush and stationary, which ruled out picture hangers. I also wanted to avoid any visible fasteners or wood repairs. My solution: Total Tape. This is a double-sided tape made by The Original Super Glue which provides a permanent bond once compressed to a surface. The tape was too wide for my rails, so I cut it lengthwise and applied several strips to the back of the ladder. It worked well, with a bond that is very stable and secure, and the ladder holds towels without budging. Be careful when placing your project, though, because once you press Total Tape in place, it’s going to stay there. Click learn to learn more. -- Weber Sure-Drive Mantis Clips When it comes to hidden fasteners in grooved deck boards, Sure-Drive USA offers one of the fastest and easiest solutions to install—the Mantis Clip. By using the Eliminator RCS pneumatic tool with its EZ-Slide attachment, you can install the Mantis Clips using Ballistic Nail Screws up to 75 percent faster than conventional methods. (Mantis fasteners can also be installed using standard hand-drive screws.) Made in the USA of high-tensile coated steel, the Mantis Clips come in a choice of four profiles, so you can choose the best fit for your deck board. And unlike other clips on the market, the Mantis is built with a base that promotes airflow to protect the deck structure. Sure Dive USA is so confident the Mantis Clips prevent lateral movement and uplift that the company backs the installation with a 30-year warranty against loose deck boards. Learn more at www.suredrive.com The U2 Construction Screw The Construction Screw from U2 Fasteners is a heavy-duty structural fastener packed with standout features. Its design has the finished appearance of a conventional round head and provides an extra-large bearing surface under the head. The Talon Grip nibs beneath the head give it extra holding power. And unlike lag screws that require pilot holes, the U2 Construction Screws have a Tapper Point that consists of the Cork Screw Start and a Blade Cutting Thread for easy piercing and alleviating strain on the material. Made of case-hardened carbon steel, the screws’ hexavalent chromium-free (CR6+) coating complies with the strictest standards governing chemical substances. Also available are 316 stainless steel versions. Construction Screws are ideal for timber construction, staircases, deck frames. rafter, trellis framing, ledger boards, joists, planter boxes, post supports, play-set structures, retaining walls and more. For your biggest projects, U2 fasteners offers Construction Screws up to 20 inches long. Learn more at www.u2fasteners.com. Maze Nails Painted Nail Colors Maze Nails pre-finished nails can add character and appeal to your building projects. Plus, you’ll save time by eliminating the labor-intensive job of touching up nail heads. Using patented technology, the checkered nail heads and oven-curing enhance the paint adhesion and keep colors consistent. Maze Nails has the capability to match all paint manufacturers’ colors (see Mazemails.com for the top 100 colors). The company also offers hammer caps to help reduce damage to paint on hand-driven colored nails during application. Learn more at www.mazenails.com. SnapToggle The SnapToggle is among the strongest toggle bolts you’ll find and it’s widely available at hardware stores. The anchor is easy to use and rated to hold up to 265 lbs. in 1/2-in. drywall. To install a SnapToggle, first drill a 1/2-in. pilot hole in the drywall. Hold the metal channel flat alongside the plastic straps and slide the channel through the hole. Once inserted, hold the ends of the straps together between your thumb and forefinger and pull toward you until the channel rests behind wall. Ratchet the cap along the straps with your other hand until the flange of the cap is flush with wall. Then, snap off the straps flush with the flange. Use the SnapToggle’s bolt (which makes a metal-to-metal connection with the hidden channel) to hang the item of your choice and tighten the bolt as necessary. Learn more at www.toggler.com. Deck2Wall Spacers The deck-ledger connection is notoriously susceptible to rot, which can dangerously affect the stability and support of the deck. Deck2wall Spacers help prevent rot from occurring by separating the ledger from the house structure, providing a path for water and debris to flow harmlessly through the assembly, while promoting circulation and drying. Stronger and more durable than stacked washers, the Deck2Wall Spacers also work as a long-lasting solution for attaching shade structures, posts, stair stringers, landings, built-up beams or mechanical equipment. Made in the USA and available in two sizes, the spacers are injection-molded, fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene. The smaller version, Deck2wall Spacer model SWS, is now approved for installation with SPAX PowerLags for quick and easy installation. Based on testing conducted by SPAX, the 1/2-in. thick x 2-in. diameter SWS spacer is now included in the updated PowerLags deck-ledger fastening table. The approved screws are available in 5/16- and 3/8-in. diameter, and have two different head types to choose from, T-STAR and HEX drive. As structural wood screws become more popular each year for deck ledger installations, so have the SWS spacers. Learn more at www.deck2wallspacer.com. CAMO Stainless and Marine-grade Fasteners Known for its popular line of hidden fasteners, CAMO introduces new 305 Stainless Steel and 316 Stainless Steel Marine Grade fasteners for fastening deck boards, trim and more. Designed to protect connections against the elements in any environment, CAMO's 316 Marine Grade Stainless Steel fasteners are ideal for use in highly corrosive coastal and agricultural environments. CAMO 305 Stainless Steel fasteners provide excellent corrosion resistance and long-lasting aesthetics for inland exterior projects. Perfect for building wood or composite decks, CAMO's new line of Stainless Steel fasteners includes hand-drive deck, composite, and trim screws. The company also offers 316 Stainless Steel Marine Grade Edge Screws for use with CAMO Marksman Pro tools and collated screws for use with the CAMO Drive stand-up tool. Also new to the CAMO brand are ring-shank deck nails and joist-hanger nails as well as collated ring-shank framing nails and collated metal hanger nails, all of which are compatible with a wide array of pneumatic nailers. CAMO backs up their line of Stainless Steel fasteners with a warranty to resist rust and corrosion. Look for the new shiny silver pails that identify CAMO's new Stainless Steel line. Learn more at www.camofasteners.com. FastenMaster Collated Cortex for Synthetic Decking FastenMaster’s approach to concealed deck fasteners is the Cortex Hidden Fastening System for use with AZEK and Trex brand composite, capstock and PVC deck boards. This system uses plugs to conceal the screw heads. The plugs come on collated strips to eliminate the need to fumble with buckets of loose plugs. Cortex plugs are made from the same material as the deck boards, creating a 100-percent perfect match and clean finish every time. Learn more at www.fastenmaster.com.

Alabama home-builder Dustin Schwaiger introduced the HIR staff to the EZ-Hang Door Bracket, which has become his crew’s go-to method of hanging a door. The E-Z Hang system is a unique seven-bracket system that speeds up installation time and reduces or eliminates the need for shims. This method makes it easier for installers of virtually any skill level to learn how to hang a door. Furthermore, the EZ-Hang system allows for installation from the inside/hinge side of the door by one person. This has always been problem with pre-hung door installation. In order to square the jamb with the door, it must be in place. It is also impossible to add wood shims from the opposite side of the door without opening the door or having help from a second person. With the EZ-Hang bracket, you can complete the work from the side of the door you need to be on. Bracket installation relies on screws rather than nails, and the screw holes are designed as key-hole slots to make it easy to adjust the door. (Once nails are in place it is often difficult or impossible to adjust without damage, and less nailing in the face of the jamb will mean less repair of nail holes.) When the door is hung true to its opening from the start, there is less chance it will need adjustments or call-backs. With this system, door reveal and clearances are much easier to make consistent, so the doors will look and swing better in the opening. You can find Dustin Schwaiger Construction on Facebook. Learn more about Door Installation: How to Install a Pre-hung Entry Door Barn Door Installation How to Order Exterior Doors Three Ways to Weather-seal a Door #ezhangdoor #ezhangbracket

by Tom Matthews Your friends and family won’t believe their eyes when they see these floating shelves that appear to hover magically on a wall without any means of support. How in the heck do they work?! In this article, we share the secret to make your own magic and astound everyone you know! This type of shelving provides extra surface storage while optimizing space by eliminating the need for support brackets. With no brackets in the way, the shelves can often be situated more closely together, allowing more room for more shelves. These floating shelves are basically made of flat, hollow boxes. Depending on the method of construction, the hollow shelf mounts to a wooden cleat or metal rods which fit inside the rear of the box to support it from within. The cleat or rods are fastened securely to the wall studs for the strongest holding power. Following are details for making cleat-style floating shelves, which can easily be modified in size to accommodate different wall lengths and then stained or painted to your preference. Design The first step is to decide the size and shape of your shelves based on the room. You can feasibly build the shelves as long as the wall. When designing the shelves, keep in mind the hollow nature of the shelves’ construction, and treat them as decorative shelves rather than expect them carry a great deal of weight. The mounting cleat only extends about 2 inches into the shelf, so the shelf should be lightweight, well-balanced, and fairly narrow so as not to pull away from the fasteners that hold it to the cleat. With the design shown, the upper and lower panels are made of thin 1/4-in. plywood, which is not exactly heavy-duty material. For this reason, it’s smart to limit the shelf size to a fairly shallow depth—about 6 inches away from the wall, in this case. Square up the board edges. Rip the 2x4s into 2x2 stock. Construction The sides of the shelf are built from common 2x4 stud lumber, so the first step is to saw the rounded edges off 2×4 stock to give the wood a sharper more “furniture-grade” appearance. I then ripped the 2×4 in half lengthwise into 2×2 boards. Three sides of the shelf are made of the 2×2 material, while the top and bottom panels are made of plywood. The fourth side or “back” of the shelf remains hollow to accept the wall cleat. To ensure a flat, flush shelf surface, I carved 1/4-in. deep rabbets along the top and bottom edges of the 2×2’s by making intersecting rip cuts on the table saw. When arranged as the interior sides of the box, these rabbets form a recessed interior channel or “trough” for the plywood to nest flush inside. The rabbets were cut to measure 1/4-in. deep but 1 inch wide, which gave the plywood a solid fastening surface with plenty of nailing room. I marked the “mirror image” cut-lines on both sides of the 2×2 then adjusted the table saw’s blade depth to make intersecting rips. Clearly mark the cuts to rip the rabbets (or channels) in each shelf side. Set the table saw’s blade depth to make intersecting cuts along the top and bottom of each shelf. Shown is the resulting T-shape profile of the shelf sides. Next, cut the 2×2 channeled blocks at 45-degree miters, according to the measurements of your shelf size. Orient the 1/4-in. channels at the top and bottom of the miters. The front piece will extend the full length of the shelf and have 45-deg. miters on each end, but the sides will have square cuts at the rear which butt against the wall. (See diagram above.) Loosely assemble the miters to make sure they fit. If cutting the corners on a miter saw, use shims beneath the bottom channel to prevent the board from rocking. Check the miters for proper fit. Prep the wood for stain or paint. Measure for the plywood panels by placing the end of your tape at the corners of the rabbets and not at the outside corners of the boards; otherwise you’ll cut the panels too large. Be sure to select the most attractive plywood side for the top and bottom, keeping any rough side facing inside the box. Cut the panels to fit snugly within the rabbet grooves. Cut the plywood panels to size. A miter clamp is helpful when assembling the sides. To join the mitered sides, use a combination of wood glue and finish nails. Or, ensure a super-solid joint by fastening with 3-in. finish or trim-head screws countersunk below the wood surface. Note: For nails, you should always pre-drill the nail holes, and finish hammering with a nail set to concealed the heads with wood filler. Check the panels for a snug fit, then add wood glue to the joints. Fasten the top and bottom plywood panels into the shelf with brads or pin nails. To make the mounting cleat, I used the leftover T-shaped 2x material. I simply ran the piece flat-side downward on the table saw, shearing off the “ears” of the profile so that the “T” became shaped like an “I”. I then cut the length to fit snugly between the two sides of the hollow box. Test-fit the cleat in the hollow shelf before mounting to the wall studs. Before mounting, I filled all fasteners holes, sanded the shelves, then added wood stain and white paint, which I distressed for an antique look. To make the cleats, rip the “ears” off the remainder of the T-shaped stock. The cleats should fit easily into the shelves. Installation Locate the wall studs and mark them with vertical strips of painter’s tape. If you’ll be stacking multiple shelves as shown in this article, decide where you want them located on the wall and mark the midpoint on a strip of tape that extends above and below shelf locations. To determine height placement, hold the cleats against the wall aligned with the midpoint line of the shelf locations. Make sure the cleats are level and adjust their elevation until you’re satisfied with the look, then mark the tops of each on the wall. After determining shelf placement, hold each cleat level against the wall and aligned with the shelf midpoints, then mark the stud locations on the cleats. Pre-drill the fastener holes through the cleats. Mark the wall studs and the shelves’ midpoint using tape strips. Level and pre-drill the cleats at the stud locations. Screw the cleats securely into the wall studs. Fasten the cleats with decking screws long enough to penetrate at least 1 inch into the wall studs. This might require countersinking the screw head inside the cleat. Mount the cleats level and securely. (You’ll get the most holding power with a stud-mounted screw on both ends of the cleat, but if necessary, you can use a bracketing wall anchor on one end.) To mount the shelves, fit the hollow boxes over the wood cleats. Drill pilot holes along the back top edge of the shelf for a few wood screws spaced 8 to 10 inches apart. Fasten through the plywood from above. The hollow shelves should slip snugly over the cleats. Pre-drill the rear edge of the shelf with a countersink bit. Screw the shelf to the cleat every 8 to 10 inches. Here are the completed shelves. #floatingshelves #bathroomshelves

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You can make rugged “industrial style” shelves using support brackets made of galvanized pipe. The shelf brackets shown were made from 3/4-inch threaded galvanized steel pipe, floor flanges, and end caps. The shelves can be cut from 2x lumber and distressed for extra “rustic” character then stained to your preference. The shelf panels shown are made from standard 2x10 boards. Each bracket is made of one 10-in. pipe nipple (a nipple is a short piece of pipe with a male pipe thread connection at each end), an end cap, and a 3-1/2-in. floor flange. I settled on using 3/4-in. pipe because it had a strong, sturdy look. Each of the 30-in. shelves required two brackets, but your shelf length can vary. The shelf brackets are built from 3/4” galvanized pipe, end caps, and floor flanges. First step: Wash the pipe components to remove any grime or oil, then spray-paint them with a metal paint. Rustoleum offers a few textured paint options such as a “hammered finish” to give the brackets more character. We even painted our screw heads to match. The brackets simply screw together with threaded joints. Determine the height and location you want for the shelves on the wall. Then, mark the wall studs at the shelf location. Next, measure downward 3/4 inch. Locate the flanges over the studs if possible. Each flange has four screw holes. Orient the flanges so the top and bottom screws align over the wall studs. Mark the top screw-hole location. Use a bubble level to mark a corresponding fastener hole for the second shelf bracket. Once the top screws are marked, use the flange-template to mark all other screw locations. Repeat this procedure for all shelf brackets. Fasten the top and bottom screws through the flanges into the wall studs using heavy-duty wood screws. Note that the top and bottom stud screws of the flanges will carry the weight of the shelves, although you might opt to fill in the other two holes with screws for decorative purposes and a completed appearance. If studs aren’t where you need them, then use a couple of toggle bolts for a secure hold to the drywall. If you fasten the shelves according to these instructions, they'll have plenty of holding power for whatever you'd like to display, such as this 6-year old boy. #pipe_shelves #pipe_bracket_shelves #pipebracketshelves

Matt's new video highlights the stand-out features on new Bosch Tools: The CHAMELEON, The FREAK and the MULTI-TOOL. #boschtools#boschfreak#boschchameleon#toolreview