Build a Cypress Grill Table

A kamado-style ceramic smoker is a popular amenity for backyard cooks because of its versatility in smoking, grilling, and even baking pizzas. Available in several brand names, these circular charcoal grills require a foundational stand plus a prep surface, and a wooden grill table can combine these functions into a single, handy workstation designed to suit your needs.

Cypress

The table shown is constructed from cypress. One reason we chose cypress for this project is because the trees produce a preservative which protects the wood from decay and repels insects like termites and carpenter bees. This makes cypress especially suited for outdoor projects. Cypress has natural wood grain character, and as it's also easy to cut, sand, and shape with a router.

Table Frame

Begin by gathering all materials then cutting the boards to size for your table. You can easily alter the size of the table to suit your needs. The table shown here is 60 inches long. Make sure to build the table large enough to house the grill, which required at least 30 inches wide in our case (for a 21-in. diameter grill).

First, assemble the 2x4 frame of the tabletop, fastening all joints with a combination of screws and exterior-grade adhesive. The glue will help prevent any movement in the table joints. Make sure to double-check measurements and build the frame corners at 90 degrees.

Fasteners

For this project, we recommend using two primary sizes of fasteners, a structural screw (which is like a modern lag-screw replacement) and a decking type screw. The screws we chose featured self-starting tips, which means the end of the screw is fluted like a drill bit. These drill-like tips penetrate the wood without the need of a pilot hole. If you choose different types of screws that do not have self-starting tips, then you should drill pilot holes for the screws to avoid splitting the wood.

Reinforce the joints with exterior-grade glue. Use self-starting, exterior-grade fasteners or else drill pilot holes for your screws.

I made a 21” round sheet of cardboard to represent the grill and help find location of the cross-brace.

Legs

The four legs can be made from solid 4x4. However, due to the limited availability of 4x4 cypress at the time, I screwed a couple of 2x4 boards together to make the 4x4 legs.

To ensure the tightest fit, use the tabletop frame as a guide to determine size and construct the two H-shaped leg assemblies within the interior dimensions of the frame. Use squares and clamps as needed to hold the boards in position as you make the connections to fasten the 2x4 cross-braces between the legs. The cross-braces can be fastened between the legs using a metal bracket and nails, or the cross-brace can be notched into the 4x4 posts and fastened with screws and glue.

Use the table-top frame to determine the size of your leg assemblies.

Metal hangers were used to connect the H-shaped leg assemblies. An angled screw strengthens the connection.

Mark the top and bottom of the legs. The two leg assemblies should look identical.

Table-Top

Once the legs are built, complete the table-top. The addition of a center brace will add strength and help maintain alignment of the rectangular frame. Fasten the 2x4 brace with glue and angled screws from inside the frame to reduce visible fasteners. For longer tables, locate the brace toward the end of the table-top where the grill will be, forming a square frame around the grill area.

The 1x6 table-top boards overhang the frame by 1” on all sides. Apply stain/sealer while it’s easy to access all sides and edges of the table.

Cut the 1x6 top boards of the table long enough to overhang the ends of the frame by an inch. Space the boards evenly so they overhang the sides by an inch. Drive two evenly spaced screws through the 1x6 boards into each frame board beneath it.

Assembly

At this point, it’s a good idea to apply wood stain/sealer to all the table parts while their sides and edges are still easy to access.

As you prepare for the final assembly of the table, keep in mind that’s once it’s completed, the table will be large, heavy, and difficult to move. I recommend relocating the parts to the space where it's finally going to stay, and then completing assembly on site.

I laid a blanket to protect the table surface, then placed the table-top upside down to attach the legs. Use a combination of 5-in. screws and glue to fasten the leg assemblies snugly inside each end of the table top. A framing square and clamps will help hold the legs in place while making the connections.

Complete final assembly at the site where the table will stay. With the table upside down, fasten the legs at 90 degrees with screws and glue, then use them to determine the length of the shelf rails.

Shelf

Once they’ve been attached, the legs can be used as a guide to mark final measurements

for the lower shelf rails. Cut the shelf rails to fit the legs. You can attach them between the legs with metal brackets, or you can choose to notch them into the 4x4 legs. A cross-brace attached between the two long shelf rails will add strength and rigidity to the shelf.

After the shelf rails are attached, flip the table upright to add the 1x6 shelf boards.

Cut the shelf boards to fit over the support rails.

With the design of this table, you will need a jigsaw to notch two of the four shelf boards at each end to fit around the table legs. You’ll get the most accurate cuts by clamping the boards in place against the 4x4 legs and marking the notches on the board (allow 1/8 inch of space around the legs). To gauge the cuts at the end of the boards, use a short scrap of 1x6 as a template to mark the notch in place, then transfer the cut-line to the shelf board.

Drive screws through the shelf boards into the support rails, spacing them evenly.

A clamp that doubles as a spreader makes a handy tool for positioning the rails when fastening. Metal hangers were used to attach the shelf rails, although notching the legs to insert the rails is also an option.

Cut the 1x6 shelf boards to fit flush over the rails. Use a scrap piece of 1x6 to mark the notch, then transfer the cut-lines to the ends of the shelf board. The notches on the ends of the two outside shelf boards should fit around the legs.

Screw the boards securely over the rails down the full length of the board.

Grill Nest

You will need a jigsaw to cut a circular passage through the table-top which will fit your grill. To simplify this procedure, you can use the dome or circular top of the grill as a template to mark the cutout. When positioning the dome, be sure to avoid marking your cut-line over the framing boards beneath the table-top.

Use a half-inch bit to drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade on the inside of your marked circular cutout. Guide the jigsaw from the pilot hole along the cut-line to remove material from the 1x6 table boards and complete the grill cutout. Touch up the cut boards with wood sealer.

Mark the table framing on the top with tape to help determine the grill location. Then, use the grill top as a template to mark the cut-out.

Customization

Feel free to put your own spin on the design of the table. You can make it as large as you like or only big enough to fit your grill. You can add different types of shelving or incorporate decorative hardware. Consider notching the front rail into the posts for a pro-carpenter look, or combine various colors of stain for a multi-toned finish. This is a fun project with endless options for the grilling aficionado, and we expect our new cypress grill table to serve us well for many years to come.

Add stain/sealer as needed to the cut areas. Kamado-style grills generally require a paver stone placed beneath the grill to protect the wood from direct heat.

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Special Thanks to Southern Cypress Manufacturers Association for help with this project.