A screened porch can make a great addition to your home, providing a comfortable outdoor space while keeping out bugs and debris. Some screen porches are built for the purpose, whereas others are retrofitted onto a covered deck or existing porch. But all are constructed from an assortment of frames on which the screen is attached along the edges. Decide on the location and orientation of your porch. Check local building codes and regulations to ensure compliance, and then secure any necessary permits. To design your own screened porch, sketch the layout and design, considering its shape, size, and the features you want. Consider factors such as roof type, ceiling height, door placement, electrical outlets and lighting. Constructing an addition from the ground up is best left to experienced professionals, who will determine the type of foundation required based on the porch’s size, soil conditions, and local building codes. The builder will excavate and pour concrete footings to support the porch structure. Basic framing usually includes installation of a ledger board, which attaches the porch to the house. The porch frame is usually built of pressure-treated lumber. Installation of the posts, beams and joists will create the structure, incorporating framed sections built to match the size of your screen panels. Vertical screen panels can extend from the floor to the overhead beam, or some porches incorporate a “half wall” or “knee wall,” and the screen encloses the open area above it. Consult with your contractor about the best roofing material based on your design, budget and local climate. Flooring options include composite boards, tile, stone, or exotic hardwoods that withstand the outdoor elements. Porch designs can feature full vertical screen panels or half screens above a knee-wall to add more privacy and weather protection. Cutting the Screen Choose a durable screen material suitable for your outdoor environment. Choices include fiberglass, polyester, aluminum, stainless and copper (for coastal areas). Measure each section of the porch where you plan to install the screen. Add a few extra inches to each measurement to allow for the screen to overlap the frame. Use a utility knife, scissors, or metal shears to cut the screen material to the measured size for each section. Lay the cut screen material over the frame section, ensuring it covers the entire opening. Screening the Walls You have several options on how to install the screening material around the porch. Screen Frames—One basic option is to construct rectangular frames on your workbench that match the frame openings of the porch. Stretch the screen over the frames, attach it securely, and then fasten the screened frames onto the porch sections. The frames can be attached to the porch by bracketing them with stop molding (like windows) or using a similar trim package. Some screen frames screw directly to the wood porch framing. Home centers and hardware stores sell screen-panel kits, and you can cut the aluminum frame rails to fit. The screen is usually attached to the frames with spline. Spline is a flexible rubber or vinyl cord that holds the screen into a frame. The spline is installed over the screen using a wheeled spline tool, which presses it into a groove. You have options for construction. Bench-made screened frames can be installed as wall panels or lightweight frames can be installed like windows onto the porch framing. Alternatively, the screen can be attached to the wood framing using one of several procedures. Screen-frame kits include four aluminum frame pieces which can be cut to size and assembled using the included frame corners, spline, pull tabs and side tension springs. Spline is usually included, but depending on your screen type, an alternate size may be needed. Staple Method—An old-fashioned DIY approach is to forgo the spline and use a heavy-duty stapler to fasten the screen along the face of wooden porch framing. With this budget-friendly method, you simply attach the screen with construction staples then cover the unsightly edges with trim. The staple method has drawbacks, however. The staples don’t always fasten the screen evenly and can cause pulls, tension and disorientation in the grid pattern. Plus, if the staple attachment gets damaged and detaches, it can tear, leaving an unsightly, ragged look. Stapling the screen is the most rudimentary method of installation, but it works in a pinch. Install trim strips over the screen edges to hide the staples and help protect the connection. If you’re attaching screen with staples, place the first staple at the top center of the panel and let gravity pull the remainder downward. Fold the 2-inch excess over 3/4 inch and then over again 1/2 inch to create a thick border. Staple it in place. Pull down the center of the screen tight and staple the center in the same fashion at the bottom of the frame. Stretch the screen tightly toward each side and staple near the top corners. Work downward along the sides, pulling slack out of the screen and stapling along the edges every 2 inches. Keep the staples in a line that can easily be concealed by trim strips. Inspect each section to ensure the screen is tight, without sagging or wrinkles. If stapling the screen, follow these sequence suggestions, then apply staples every 2 inches for final attachment. Spline Method—The spline method is more reliable for screen attachment, and it can be used with several different framing systems, including window frames and screen doors, resulting in a neater overall appearance. Lay the cut screen material over the frame section, ensuring it covers the entire opening. If hanging the screen in place, work from the top downward. Starting at a top corner, use a spline roller to press the spline over the screen, forcing it into the groove of the frame toward the opposite top corner. Hold the screen taut as you work your way around the frame, using the roller to push the spline deep into the groove so it compresses against the sides for a tight hold. The spline method generally installs the screen more evenly than stapling. A wheeled spline tool is used to press the spline over the screen into a groove, where it compresses for a tight fit. The spline-and-groove method works with screen doors and frame kits, and the spline is sold in different sizes to fit different groove widths. The main drawback is long-term durability. When facing strong winds, pets pushing against the screen, or footballs thrown by your kids, the spline can dislodge and require reinstallation. The repair is fairly easy—the same as installation—but repeated repairs can get tedious in a rowdy household. Spline-Free Systems Spline-free screen porch products are more expensive than more traditional methods, but they offer real advantages for the installer. For example, the Screen Tight system has been installed in more than a million homes because it offers a simple three-step installation that’s easy for DIY’ers. Just attach the base track to your existing porch framing and roll the screen directly into place. Then snap on the decorative vinyl cap, which protects the screen connection and eliminates the need to install a separate trim piece over the joint. If you need to reapply the screen for repair, just remove the vinyl cap, re-screen, and put the cap back on. For easy DIY installation, you might consider the spline-free ScreenTight system. Just attach the base track to your existing porch framing and roll the screen directly into place. Then snap on the decorative vinyl cap. Image © ScreenTight. Another spline-free option is the ScreenEze System, which is advertised as a “self-tightening” and “self-stretching” system. The L-shaped, low-profile aluminum base channel can be corner-mounted or flush-mounted to the porch with screws. Plinth kits are included to connect the corners. To install the screen; hold the screen fabric at the top of the opening and square it up, then attach it to the base channel by pressing or tapping the vinyl cap over the screen and snapping it onto the aluminum ridge with a rubber mallet. Seat the vinyl cap completely around the frame. The cap is sold in a variety of colors, including bronze, white, sand and clay. As with all screen installations, trim off any excess screen material using scissors or a utility knife. Have a large opening? The ScreenEze system is probably the best choice to cover large areas, because it can span up to 150 square feet. A traditional spline system can only go as large 60 square feet, and posts are required every few feet. Another spline-free system, the ScreenEze system, uses an aluminum base and a PVC vinyl cap. The ScreenEze system comes in four colors and can cover spans up to 150 square feet. Image © ScreenEze.

When it comes to interior design, the bathroom is often overlooked as a space for creativity and self-expression. However, with the right choice of bathroom wallpaper, you can transform this functional room into a stylish oasis that reflects your personality and enhances your daily routines. James Mellan-Matulewicz, creative director at wallpaper brand Bobbi Beck, shares his expert tips for choosing and applying bathroom wallpaper, so you can achieve a stunning and practical result. The Benefits of Bathroom Wallpaper Bathroom wallpaper has come a long way from its humble beginnings. Modern advancements in materials and printing technology have made it a viable option for a space often characterized by humidity and temperature fluctuations. Some of the benefits of using wallpaper in your bathroom include: Style Versatility: Wallpaper offers an extensive range of colors, patterns, and textures, allowing you to create a truly unique and personalized look for your bathroom. Whether you're aiming for a serene spa-like atmosphere or a bold and vibrant statement, there's a wallpaper design to match your vision. Durability: High-quality bathroom wallpapers are designed to withstand the conditions present in a bathroom, including moisture and heat. Most wallpapers can be used in a bathroom, if covered with a decorator’s varnish after it’s installed. This creates an invisible waterproof layer across the seams and surface of the wallpaper. Easy to Update: If you ever decide to change the look of your bathroom, removing and replacing wallpaper is generally simpler and less time-consuming than repainting, remodeling or replacing bulky bathroom items like sinks and baths. Aesthetic Impact: The right choice of wallpaper can completely transform the ambiance of your bathroom, making it feel larger, cozier, or more luxurious. Choosing the Perfect Wallpaper Before you dive into the world of bathroom wallpaper, consider these key factors to ensure you make the right choice. Material: Opt for vinyl, vinyl-coated, or non-woven wallpapers that are specifically designed to withstand moisture and humidity. These materials are more resistant to water and can be wiped down without damaging the design. Pattern and Color: Think about the overall style you want to achieve. Light and pastel colors can make a small bathroom appear larger, while bold patterns can add drama and personality. Consider the existing color scheme and fixtures in your bathroom when selecting a wallpaper. Texture: Textured wallpapers can add depth and tactile interest to your bathroom. However, be cautious with highly textured options, as they may trap moisture and be more challenging to clean. Scale of the Pattern: The scale of the pattern should be proportional to the size of your bathroom. In a small space, opt for smaller patterns, while larger bathrooms can accommodate bolder designs. Maintenance: Choose a wallpaper that is labelled as washable or scrubbable. Bathrooms can accumulate dirt and moisture, so having wallpaper that is easy to clean will ensure its longevity. Applying a decorator’s varnish afterwards can turn a non-washable wallpaper into a washable one. Application and Maintenance Proper application and maintenance are essential to getting the most out of your bathroom wallpaper. Some important things to consider are: Preparation: Ensure your walls are clean, dry, and smooth before applying wallpaper. Repair any imperfections and consider applying a primer to create a smooth surface. Professional Installation: While DIY installation is possible, hiring a professional wallpaper installer is an option if you're new to wallpapering. Proper installation will ensure a seamless and long-lasting result. Bathrooms are often the trickiest room to decorate because there’s often lots of obstacles and little room to maneuver. Sealing Edges: In bathrooms, it’s important to apply a waterproof sealant around the edges of the wallpaper to prevent moisture from seeping underneath. Regular Cleaning: To maintain the beauty of your bathroom wallpaper, regularly clean it using a soft, damp cloth or sponge. Avoid abrasive cleaners that could damage the design. You should only do this if the wallpaper is sold as washable or you’ve applied a varnish over the top after installation. Ventilation: Proper ventilation is crucial to reducing humidity levels in your bathroom. Use exhaust fans and open windows when possible to prevent excessive moisture buildup. Bathroom wallpaper is a fantastic way to infuse style, personality, and sophistication into an overlooked space. By carefully considering materials, patterns and maintenance, you can create a bathroom that is both visually stunning and practical. Remember, the key to successful bathroom wallpaper is choosing the right materials and ensuring proper installation and maintenance. With the right approach, your bathroom can become a true reflection of your design sensibilities and a delightful retreat for both you and your guests. Editor’s Note: All photography in this article appears courtesy of Bobbi Beck, a carbon neutral design and print studio with a focus on producing luxury wallpapers without damaging the planet. Learn more at www.bobbibeck.com.

(guest post by Valerie Smith of Sod University) For homeowners, there are few projects that make more of an impact than fresh, new sod. After all, who doesn’t want to highlight their home with a gorgeous, lush lawn? Choosing, installing and caring for new sod isn’t foolproof though, and comes with many questions. Today, we are addressing some of the most asked questions that homeowners have about new lawns. 1. How do I install a new lawn? At Sod University, we like to lay out seven steps when it comes to a successful new lawn installation: 1. Testing the soil, 2. Choosing the grass, 3. Measuring the area you want to install new sod in, 4. Removing old grass, 5. Preparing the soil for installation and leveling, 6. Laying the new sod, 7. Watering and fertilizing the new sod. Though some choose to let a professional handle most of these steps, it’s a good idea for homeowners to have an idea of the installation process themselves to ensure everything is done correctly and in order. 2. How much does a new lawn cost? There are a couple of different factors that play into pricing for a new lawn. Costs depend on who you’re buying from, the type of grass you’re installing, the size of the pallet and where you live. Like any other product, grass varieties are not created equal. More expensive varieties often have elevated features while cheaper options may not (think drought and shade tolerance, wear resistance, green-up ability, etc.). You get what you pay for. Location also plays a role. Sod needs to be trucked to your home, so your proximity to a farm provider also impacts the cost. Grass is often quoted to homeowners by the pallet, so understanding pallet sizing is the key to the ordering process. 3. What is the best sod to use on a new lawn? Believe it or not, there’s actually A LOT that goes into selecting the perfect grass for your landscape. First and foremost, you should understand the difference between warm and cool season sod and which varieties grow near you. Certain grass types only perform so well in specific locations. For example, Kentucky bluegrass, a cool season grass type, won’t perform well in Florida. It’s also probably not sold anywhere near you for this exact reason. Here are some other things to consider when selecting a grass type for your lawn: Your lawn’s current condition – this includes shade, the type of soil you have or if you have children or pets. Thinking about a grass type that tolerates your lawn’s conditions can play a huge factor in the overall success of your lawn. The type of “look” you prefer – do you want grass with really wide blades or finer blades? What shade of green are you looking for when the lawn is in its healthiest state? Maintenance – as previously mentioned, the amount of maintenance your grass requires is a huge deal. If you’re looking for something that requires less mowing, consider looking for a grass that grows slowly or spreads laterally, like CitraBlue St. Augustine. If you want to spend less money on your irrigation bill, select a drought-tolerant lawn. 4. What is the best grass seed to use on a new lawn? There are a few items to consider when choosing a grass seed for your lawn, but the two most important are probably your home’s location and the features you desire in a lawn. There are warm season and cool season grasses, so depending on where your home falls on the map, it’s important to pick a variety appropriate for your home’s climate. Secondly, you’ll want to prioritize the features you desire the most in a grass. For example, is a low-maintenance yard more important than the look and feel of the grass? Centipede lawns are called “the lazy man’s grass” for a reason—you don’t have to do much to keep it alive. Overall, there are many varieties to choose from. 5. Should I install sod myself or use a professional? Installing sod yourself is the less expensive way to go, but a professional will ensure the sod is installed correctly. With that being said, this decision largely depends on personal preference. If you have the help of friends and family, installing sod yourself can be painless. If you’re installing the sod alone and you’re covering a large area, a professional might be a better option. Regardless, we think it’s best to always know how to install sod properly, even if you’ve hired a professional company. That way, you’ll at least be able to recognize if the process is being done correctly. 6. How do I plant a new over older grass? In short—you don’t! If there is old grass in the way of your fresh sod, it is essential to the health of the new sod that you properly remove it before laying the new sod. Otherwise, the new sod won’t have a place to establish roots and it’ll eventually die. To remove sod the right way, you’ll need to kill it chemically with glyphosate or some other non-selective herbicide and then cut away the remains with either sod cutters or a shovel. It’s important to take this step at least 10–14 days before installation takes place. This gives the grass enough time to die so you can remove it beforehand. 7. How do I remove old sod? To remove old sod, you have two choices: use a sod cutter for efficiency or a shovel for smaller areas. Before starting, apply a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate to ease removal by killing the grass, but be mindful of its potential to harm other plants. Sod cutters, while initially daunting, are user-friendly and rentable from hardware stores. Shovels are an option for less extensive work, but for larger projects, sod cutters are recommended for their ease and speed. 8. When is the best time to lay sod? Sod can be successfully installed any time of the year but the best time to lay sod is actually early to mid-fall. This varies slightly depending on where you live. Early fall allows for time for the sod to establish before the hot and often dry summer. You can also install sod in the spring, summer and winter seasons. 9. When is the best time to plant grass seed? The best time to plant grass seed depends on if you’re planting cool season or warm season grass seed. You can plant grass seed any time of the year, but fall is the best time to seed a lawn with a cool season turfgrass variety. Spring is the best time to plant warm season turfgrass seed. 10. When is the best time to plant grass plugs? Like grass seed, the best time to plant grass plugs largely depends on where you live and the climate you live in. Spring is the best time to install grass plugs because temperatures aren’t exceedingly high yet. Summer is the worst time because of the amount of water you’ll need to use to help the plugs establish during the hottest time of the year. Overwatering can also lead to disease outbreaks, which is the last thing your newly establishing plugs need to endure as they grow. 11. What fertilizer should I use on new sod? Your best bet for nourishing your lawn with everything it needs doesn’t have to be difficult. Any fertilizer heavy in nitrogen is usually the wrong answer. Your lawn needs phosphorus more than anything as this nutrient promotes root growth while the new sod establishes in its permanent location. If you know how to read a fertilizer label, you’ll have an easier time selecting a fertilizer with a good amount of phosphorus. I recommend Lawnifi’s New Lawn Starter Box to give your fresh sod a head start. The kit contains two liquid bottles of Grow and one liquid bottle of Maintain, in easy-to-use, proprietary formulas. Follow the simple instructions and watch your sod thrive. 12. When do I apply fertilizer on new sod? The Starter fertilizer should be applied immediately after installation, again at the two-week mark and then again at the four-week mark. After these applications, continue with monthly fertilization during growing seasons with our Spring, Summer and Fall Fertilizer Boxes. 13. When do I mow new sod? About two weeks after installation, lightly tug on the sod to see whether roots have begun to establish. If little white roots have begun to take, it’s time for the first mow! If not, wait a few more days and check again. 14. What height should my new lawn be mowed at? it’s best to mow at the highest setting your mower offers during the first mow. Once the first 30 days after installation have passed, begin mowing at your grass type’s ideal height. Find your grass type’s ideal height in our Homeowner Maintenance Guides located here. 15. When do I water newly laid sod? Most lawn care experts recommend that you water your new sod on the first day of installation as this will keep your sod from drying out around the edges. There are a lot of exposed edges along the pieces of your sod that dry out fairly easily, so watering more frequently and thoroughly during establishment is suggested. 16. When can I apply control products on my new lawn? For new sod, avoid chemical treatments at first; hand-pull weeds until after 3-4 mows, starting two weeks post-installation. Then, spot-treat weeds with a compatible selective post-emergent herbicide. For lawns previously damaged by insects, pre-treat old sod and soil with insect control products, waiting 3-4 weeks post-installation before treating new sod. If new sod arrives with pests, treat immediately. For disease, verify it's not drought damage, reduce watering, and apply a contact fungicide every two weeks, and treat the entire lawn with a systemic fungicide for long-term protection. 17. How do I care for new sod planted in shade? It’s important to select a shade tolerant turfgrass variety if you’re installing sod in shady locations. Some of the top shade tolerant turfgrasses include red fescue, tall fescue, St. Augustine and fine-bladed zoysia grasses. Breeders are constantly improving new turfgrass varieties, so there may be exceptions to the above list of shade tolerant grasses. Generally speaking, though, we suggest the following: Palmetto St. Augustine CitraBlue St. Augustine Innovation Zoysia EMPIRE Zoysia With any shade tolerant variety, be sure to budget for several applications of systemic fungicide per year. Additionally, note that to avoid disease it is best to water less in shaded areas compared to areas that receive full sun. Learn more about achieving a great lawn with Sod University tips here or subscribe to the weekly newsletter.

Gypsum wallboard, commonly known as drywall, is the most popular material in the U.S. for interior walls and ceilings due to its versatility, durability, and ease of installation. Whether you're a seasoned remodeler or a first-time DIY’er looking to take on an improvement project, installing drywall can be a rewarding task but a tricky one to master. Even professionals with experience hanging drywall often struggle with finishing the joints, which is a skill that requires a lot of practice to get perfect. This guide will walk you through an overview of installing drywall, providing real-world guidance on the challenges you’ll face. Materials: Drywall panels (gypsum wallboard sheets), joint compound, drywall screws, joint tape, corner bead, primer/sealer, paint Tools: Screw gun or drill, T-square, utility knife, drywall saw, joint knife, sandpaper, mud pa, drywall rasp, drywall lift, (optional for ceiling installation) Prep Steps Carefully measure the dimensions of your walls and ceilings, noting any openings for doors, windows, and outlets. Plan the layout to economize drywall panel usage and minimize waste. When calculating the number of 4x8-ft. or 4x12-ft. drywall panels, order about 10 percent more panels for the project to account for waste. Make sure you plan for all the necessary tools and materials, including drywall panels, drywall tape, corner beads, screws, joint compound, tape measure, utility knife, T-square, and screw gun. Are you installing panels on the ceiling as well as the walls? Drywall sheets on residential walls are usually 1/2-in. thick, whereas the ceiling drywall is usually 5/8-in. thick to reduce the issue of the panels sagging between ceiling joists. Are you installing drywall in the bathroom? If so, consider using “greenboard,” which is a generic term for water-resistant drywall panels approved for use in damp areas. Widely used as a wall surface in high-humidity spaces, such as bathrooms and laundry rooms, the greenboard’s paper facing has been treated with a waxy coating and chemicals to resist moisture and mildew. Store the panels in a dry, sheltered area while you clear the site. Remove any obstacles from the work area to create a clutter-free space. Cover floors and furniture with drop cloths or plastic sheets to protect them from dust and debris. Before installation, inspect the framing of the walls and ceilings. Address any issues like water damage or warped studs to ensure a solid, flat foundation for your drywall. For fixtures like towel bars, handrails or cabinets, install 2x4 wood blocking between the studs to provide a secure anchor point for the fixtures after installation. Ensure all electrical and plumbing work is completed before installing drywall. You will have to make cutouts for the outlets. Exterior walls should have insulation between the wall studs. Mark all stud locations on the floor and ceiling to help guide the attachment of drywall panels. Plan the placement of drywall seams to minimize visible joints. The 4x8-ft. panels can be installed horizontally or vertically. Staggering the seams between adjacent panels will achieve a stronger wall and smoother finish. Note that the eye tends to notice vertical joints easier than horizontal joints, so pro installers often hang the panels horizontally to minimize the number of vertical joints. The electrical and plumbing work should be completed in the walls before drywall installation, and you will need to cut out all penetrations. Cutting Drywall Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width you need for the drywall panels. Mark these measurements on the wallboard with a pencil. For straight cuts, use a straightedge or T-square to ensure accuracy. If you're making a straight cut, place the long arm of the T-square along the marks and hold it firmly. Use it to guide a sharp utility knife and score the drywall along the cutline. Apply firm and consistent pressure while cutting through the paper surface and into the gypsum core. Repeat the scoring process until you see a visible groove. For curved cuts or openings, use a flexible curve or template to mark the shape onto the wallboard, and then follow the same scoring technique. After scoring, gently lift the wallboard along the cut line and snap it along the groove. Use the edge of a table or another flat surface to support the wallboard as you snap it. The goal is to break the gypsum core cleanly along the scored line. Once the wallboard is snapped, use the utility knife to cut through the paper facing on the backside of the break for a clean and precise edge. To refine the cut edges, use a rasp or sanding block to smooth any irregularities. Oscillating tools are handy for making small cut-outs, but the use of powered cutting tools should generally be avoided for drywall due to the large amount of dust and mess they generate. To cut drywall, first measure and mark the cut line. Use a sharp knife to score the paper face with a sharp utility knife and snap the gypsum core along the score line. This method maintains accuracy and minimizes airborne dust. The square cross-brace of a T-square helps it to hold position when you score along its straight-edge with a utility knife. A drywall rasp is a handy tool for smoothing out any rough edges on the drywall sheets. Hanging the Panels Carefully measure and cut the drywall sheets to fit the dimensions of your walls or ceiling. If you encounter outlets or switches, use a drywall saw to cut openings for them. Attach the panels to the studs using drywall screws and a powered driver. Position the panels with their tapered edges facing each other (which makes it easier to embed tape at the joints). Leave a 1/8-inch gap between the sheets for expansion. Space the screws approximately 12 inches apart along the studs. If you're working on ceilings, you’ll need to rent a drywall lift to raise and hold the sheets in place. Start at one corner and attach the drywall sheets to the ceiling joists using drywall screws. Ensure the edges of the sheets meet the center of the joists. When hanging sheets on walls, begin at one corner and work your way across the room. Secure the drywall sheets to the studs with screws and stagger the seams between sheets for a more stable wall. Hang the drywall sheets with 1/8” expansion gap between them. The best practice is to set the torque of your power driver to countersink the screws slightly below the drywall surface without tearing the paper face. At an outside corner, lap one sheet of drywall over the edge of the other and fasten it to the stud. If the end of the lapped sheet extends past the other wall, rasp away the excess material. In some cases, a drywall panel may meet a corner stud that can only support an adjacent panel. In this case, use a metal drywall corner clip to support the panel edge. One side of the clip holds the panel, and the other has a tab which connects to the stud. Taping and Finishing In a nutshell, all the drywall joints between panels should be taped and finished with joint compound. Although that sounds simple, finishing drywall with a professional appearance takes a skillful approach and patience from the inexperienced installer. Drywall tape is available in paper varieties, perforated varieties (to reduce blisters), fiberglass mesh, and moisture-resistant varieties. Drywall taping knives are the essential tools for finishing the walls. You’ll need a 4-, 6- and 10-inch knife. A 14-inch finishing trowel also helps to smooth the joints. Another handy item for the mudding phase is called a “hawk,” which is a small flat pan for carrying joint compound (AKA drywall mud). Use a 4-inch knife to cover fastener heads and to lay a thin layer of mud over the joints in which to embed the joint tape. Use the same knife to press the tape into the mud and even out the edges. In general, drywall tape is embedded along the joints in a thin coat of joint compound. Wall corners get special treatment. Some drywall tapes include a crease along its midpoint, which makes it easier to fold in half lengthwise and fit into an inside corner. Outside corners should be protected with a corner bead, which are the long, rigid strips that wrap intersecting walls with an L-shaped profile. You can use metal or rigid vinyl corner beads in square or bullnose shapes (for rounded corners). Cut the corner bead to length with tin snips, keeping its bottom end about 1/2 inch off the floor. Lightly press on the corner of the bead, squaring the strip against the walls. Drive a few nails or staples through the corner bead to establish its position, then nail it for a stronger hold. Space the nails about 8 inches apart. Use a 6-inch drywall knife to apply the first coat of mud to the corner. The knife glides along the raised corner bead and the wall, laying the compound in the valley between the two high points. Outside corners are protected with vinyl or metal corner bead, which are rigid strips fastened over the drywall and then coated with joint compound. Always allow the first coat compound to dry completely before recoating. Before applying the second coat of compound, use a scraper to remove any ridges or chunks in the dried mud. Then, use the 6-in. knife to apply a coat of compound over the taped joints. Next, use a 10- or 14-in. knife held almost flat against the wall to smooth out the mud at the seams. Don’t worry about achieving a perfect finish, just fill the seams while minimizing the need to sand. Aim for a flat and smooth application but remember that you can sand away imperfections once the second coat has dried. Pro tip for inside corners: After the tape has dried into the first coat, mud over only one side of the inside corner tape at a time, allowing the first side to harden before covering the second side. Because joint compound generally shrinks as it dries, it’s common to find screw indentions where you’ve coated the fasteners. Give these visible dimples another coat of compound when applying the second coat to the joints. Ideally, you’ll only need one last coat to finish the walls. For the final coat, use a wide drywall knife to feather-out the compound as smooth as possible, allow to dry and sand well. The key to success lies in how well the panels are finished to disguise the joints. A poorly finished wall surface with high crowns of accumulated mud may reveal visible joints that are uneven with the wall. This is why it’s so important to feather the edges into a smooth transition. It takes a bit of finesse with the drywall knife, but a DIY’er can succeed with practice and patience. Sand and Finish Once the final coat is dry, use a sanding block with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface. Feather the edges to create a seamless finish. Be cautious not to over-sand (a common DIY mistake), because it can expose the tape and create an uneven surface. If you expose the tape, then it’s back to square one when you reapply and feather out the mud in successive coats, sanding to achieve a smooth finish free of any blemishes. Joint compound tends to shrink when it dries, so expect to fill screw holes and similar imperfections with at least two coats. Sand between coats to knock down high spots and help feather the edges of the joint compound. Note that sanding the dried joint compound creates a lot of dust, so sealing off the surrounding rooms from airborne exposure is always a good way to keep the house tidy. Be sure to wear a dust mask when sanding. Another trick is to use a damp drywall sponge in the final phases, which can help melt and wipe away high spots without the abrasion that creates so much dust. For the final coat, use a wide drywall knife to feather-out the compound as smooth as possible, blending the joint with the surrounding wall. Pro tip: Since texture and porosity differences between the mudded joints and paper-faced drywall can lead to a mismatched paint finish (especially in areas exposed to a lot of light), some professional drywallers give the entire wall surface a skim coat. This is a thin coat of drywall mud that leaves a film thick enough to fill imperfections in the wall and provide a uniform surface for priming. In any case, it is always important to seal new drywall with a quality primer/sealer prior to painting the walls your choice of color. Take your time with drywall work, follow each step carefully, and you'll soon have walls that showcase a professional touch. Editor's Note: Special thanks to Caleb and Randy Stephenson of Core Resources in Birmingham, Alabama, for help with this article. You can reach Core Resources at (205) 612-9021.

(guest post by Hazel Hale) Keeping your home warm in frigid climates poses a significant challenge, with many heating systems falling short in extreme cold. Striking the right balance between efficiency and reliability becomes crucial. That’s where installing a dual fuel system comes in. It is a versatile HVAC solution that merges a gas furnace and an electric heat pump. When temperatures plummet, the gas furnace takes charge, ensuring ample warmth. In milder conditions, the electric heat pump seamlessly steps in, optimizing performance and curbing energy consumption. This article explores the workings of a dual-fuel system, unraveling its benefits and offering guidance on selecting the perfect fit for your home. Navigating the winter chill becomes simpler when armed with knowledge about this dynamic heating solution. What is a Dual Fuel System? A dual fuel system is a type of home heating system that uses two different sources of energy to produce heat. The two sources are typically electricity and natural gas, but they can also be propane or oil. A dual-fuel system consists of two main components: a heat pump and a furnace. A heat pump is a device that extracts heat from the outside air and transfers it to the inside of the house. It works like an air conditioner in reverse, and it can provide both heating and cooling. A furnace is a device that burns natural gas or another fuel to create heat. It works by igniting the fuel and blowing the hot air through ducts to the rooms. A dual fuel system combines the advantages of both a heat pump and a furnace. It uses the heat pump as the primary source of heating when the outside temperature is mild, and it switches to the furnace when the temperature drops below a certain point. This way, it can optimize the performance and efficiency of each component and reduce energy consumption and costs. The heat pump condenser is the part of the AC system that stays outside of the home. Working together with the compressor; when the system is in cooling mode it uses the compressor to pressurize the freon into a hot liquid. When the system is in heating mode the heat pump reverses that process and sends the warm air back into your home as opposed to ejecting the hot air outdoors. Image courtesy Goodman. Transferring Heat, Not Generating It You might wonder how a heat pump can provide heating and cooling for your home. The secret is that heat pumps can reverse their operation depending on the season. In the winter, a heat pump can extract heat from the cold outdoor air and transfer it to your indoor air, warming up your home. In the summer, a heat pump can do the opposite: it can take heat from your indoor air and dump it outside, cooling down your home. Refrigeration Cycle Explained The operation of a dual-fuel heating system hinges on the refrigeration cycle, a fundamental process underpinning its ability to both heat and cool your home efficiently. The compressor plays a vital role in this cycle. Contrary to a common misconception, it doesn't directly compress liquid refrigerant. Instead, it elevates gaseous refrigerant to high pressure. This compressed gas, now hot, travels through the outdoor coil (condenser). Here, fans expel heat from the compressed gas into the surrounding air, causing it to condense back into a liquid state. This is where the magic happens in heating mode. The liquid refrigerant then journeys to the indoor coil (evaporator). Strategically placed valves reduce its pressure, triggering its transformation back into gas through evaporation. This process crucially absorbs heat from the outdoor air, not just the indoor air circulating over the evaporator coils. The heat-laden gas then travels back to the compressor, completing the cycle and carrying the captured outdoor heat indoors. The reversing valve then directs the hot, compressed gas to the indoor coil, where it releases the heat it absorbed outdoors, warming your home. During cooling mode, the roles of the coils reverse. The heat absorbed from your indoor air by the evaporator is carried by the refrigerant to the condenser, where it's released into the outdoor air through the fan. In essence, whether in heating or cooling mode, the dual fuel heating system orchestrates a complex dance of refrigerant state changes and heat transfer within the framework of the refrigeration cycle, ensuring year-round comfort in your home. When the Furnace Steps In While heat pumps excel at efficiently extracting warmth from outdoor air, their effectiveness can gradually decrease as temperatures dip below freezing (32°F). This isn't a hard rule, though, as modern heat pump models often maintain impressive efficiency even down to sub-zero temperatures, depending on the specific technology and system design. To ensure consistent comfort during extreme cold snaps, many HVAC systems integrate a backup heating source like a furnace. This backup kicks in when outdoor temperatures hit a threshold where the heat pump's efficiency drops significantly, typically determined by your thermostat and system settings. Modern thermostats play a crucial role in this seamless transition, intelligently switching between the heat pump and backup based on real-time outdoor temperature and your desired indoor comfort level. This optimizes both efficiency and comfort. Mitsubishi Electric’s intelli-HEAT Dual Fuel Heat Pump system consists of an exterior heat pump replacing an existing air conditioning condenser and an interior unit installed on a customer’s existing furnace. (Courtesy of METUS) It's important to note that gas furnaces are a common backup choice, but other options like electric furnaces, heat strips, or even dual-fuel systems utilizing propane are also available. Overall, the combination of a heat pump and a backup heating source provides a well-rounded solution for year-round comfort. While efficiency might decrease in harsher climates, modern technology ensures a smooth transition and reliable heating performance across varying temperatures. Seamless Switching for Optimal Efficiency While the claim that dual-fuel heat pumps seamlessly switch between electricity and gas/oil is generally accurate for modern, well-maintained systems, it's important to consider a few nuances for a complete picture. Smart System Controls: Indeed, these systems boast intelligent controls that monitor factors like outdoor temperature, energy prices (which can fluctuate significantly depending on location and time), and system performance. This allows them to select the most economical and efficient heat source at any given time, aiming for a seamless transition without compromising comfort. However, it's worth noting that some older systems might experience slight temperature fluctuations during switching, which could be noticeable to sensitive individuals. Prioritizing Efficiency with Comfort in Mind: While maximizing efficiency is a key benefit, user comfort should also be prioritized. Modern systems prioritize maintaining consistent indoor temperatures during transitions. However, it's good practice to remember that extreme cold might require the backup furnace to run more frequently, potentially impacting energy costs. Backup Heating for Reliable Comfort: Integrating a backup heating source (gas, oil, or propane) ensures consistent comfort even during extreme cold snaps when the heat pump alone might struggle. This redundancy enhances reliability and offers peace of mind. Overall, dual-fuel heat pumps offer efficient, cost-effective heating solutions with seamless transitions between energy sources and reliable performance in various weather conditions. However, remembering the potential for slight temperature fluctuations in older systems and the impact of extreme cold on energy costs provides a more balanced perspective for homeowners considering this technology. Conclusion If you are looking for a way to heat and cool your home efficiently and effectively, consider a dual fuel heating and cooling system. This type of system combines a heat pump with a gas furnace, giving you the best of both worlds. A heat pump works in conjunction with a central air conditioner, using the same refrigerant cycle to cool your home in the summer and warm your home in the winter. However, when the temperature drops below a certain point, the heat pump loses its heating capacity and needs a secondary heat source. That's where the gas furnace comes in. A dual fuel system switches from the heat pump to the gas furnace when the outside temperature is too low for the heat pump to operate efficiently. This way, you can maximize efficiency and comfort all year long. For further information or to make an informed decision, reach out to a professional HVAC expert. About the author: Hazel Hale is the Content Marketing Strategist of Annette Hale’s Indoor Comfort Systems, the most trusted provider of heating and AC repair services in Huntsville, AL and the surrounding areas. When not working, she enjoys photography, digital art and watching her son's soccer games. SIDE NOTE Can a Heat Pump Replace an Air Conditioner? Yes, a heat pump can effectively replace an air conditioner. A heat pump isn’t an add-on to a home AC system, it is a home AC system. Essentially, the components that make up a heat pump are already in place in a standard central air conditioning system. Both systems utilize outdoor units to transfer heat, but unlike traditional air conditioners, heat pumps can also operate in reverse to provide heating during colder months. This dual functionality makes them versatile and energy-efficient, serving as both a cooling and heating system for your home. Troubleshooting Heat Pumps The following are common problems with home heat pump systems that DIY’ers might be able to diagnose themselves. Blowing Cold Air in Heat Mode If your heat pump system is blowing cold or room temperature air while the thermostat is set to heat, the first step is to check your thermostat to make sure the system didn’t accidentally get set for cooling. Also check your fan control settings. If you run the fan continuously for air circulation and filtering, you may be feeling room temperature air because the system isn’t actively heating. If this is the problem, re-setting the system to heat mode and the fan to auto mode should solve the issue. Running Constantly in Mild Weather A heat pump relies on heating energy from outdoor air, so it can be normal for a unit to run all the time in extreme temperatures as it works to extract enough heat for the home. But if the temperature outside is moderately warm, and the unit is still struggling or constantly running, it’s time to inspect it. Is the thermostat set on air conditioning mode? If so, changing to the heat setting should fix the problem. If it’s not a thermostat issue, check the air filter located in or near your indoor air handler unit. A dirty or clogged air filter can cause the system to run longer and less effectively. You should clean or replace it routinely. This is something you can easily do yourself. Your heat pump may need a tune-up. Having your heat pump serviced regularly by a professional, qualified HVAC technician can provide higher efficiency operation. One service typically offered is cleaning your outdoor coil. If the coil is extremely dirty, your system may have trouble keeping up with heating demand. If it is mildly cold outside, and the heat pump is running constantly, you may have a deeper issue such as a (1) frozen coil, (2) malfunctioning reversing valve, (3) low refrigerant charge, or (4) a compressor issue. For these situations, it is generally best to contact a professional for diagnosis and repair. Restricted Airflow Heat pump systems require unrestricted air flow through the outdoor coil to work efficiently. If the system is not heating effectively or if it is running constantly, check the outdoor unit for excessive debris such as leaves or snow blockages. Remove any blockage or obstruction, then resume monitoring the temperature inside. If you still have issues, it’s time to contact a professional. Fan Not Activating If your outdoor unit is running, but you don’t feel any air coming from the registers, your indoor air handler may not be activating. In this case, the circuit breaker may have tripped. Your indoor and outdoor units are on separate breakers. Check your home’s electrical panel for a tripped circuit breaker and follow standard safety precautions to reset the breaker. If it continues to trip, contact a professional. A malfunctioning air handler may also be the result of a burnt out or disconnected wire. Contact your local dealer to diagnose and repair. If the blower motor is burnt out, contact a trusted HVAC technician to thoroughly check your system, determine why the motor is blown, and estimate repair and replacement costs. Heat pump system problems aren’t always related to the outdoor unit. In any troubleshooting situation, fixing a smaller issue soon is better than waiting for a bigger, more costly issue later.

(guest post by Valerie Smith) If you want a great lawn, you’ve got to have great soil. Working from the ground up by soil testing is the best way to make sure your yard is growing in the best environment as this directly influences how well the grass itself grows. Don’t be one of the many homeowners that skip the step of soil testing. This oversight leads to spending on unnecessary fertilizers, contributing to ineffective nutrient application and potential environmental harm due to runoff into water systems. Testing your soil is as easy as it is important for a healthy lawn as it tells you exactly what your soil needs. This way, you can buy the right additives for your lawn, and nothing more, making it healthier and saving you money. The Importance of Soil Testing The makeup of the soil can differ from one part of the yard to another, so it’s important to test more than one area of the lawn. Testing the soil is a key step if you want to know what nutrients it’s made of, how acidic or alkaline it is and other important details that affect the health of your lawn. Cost-Effective and Eco-Friendly Applications Soil testing enables a cost-effective and eco-friendly approach to lawn fertilization by precisely identifying what nutrients the soil lacks, thereby eliminating guesswork. This allows homeowners to invest in targeted nutrients, ensuring the lawn receives exactly what it needs for optimal health without overspending on unnecessary fertilizers. Such precise application not only saves money by avoiding the waste associated with over-fertilization but also prevents nutrient runoff and environmental pollution. This contributes to a more sustainable lawn care routine, ensuring the lawn remains an eco-friendly aspect of the home landscape while receiving the proper nourishment to thrive. Interpreting Soil Test Results Interpreting a soil test might seem a little daunting at first, but it’s quite straightforward once you understand the basics. The results from a soil test provide valuable information about the nutrients present in your soil, its pH level and other important characteristics that affect plant growth. Sod Solutions offers a soil test kit that simplifies the results. Simply submit a soil sample and, without homeowners needing to decipher the ratings themselves, it recommends which products are needed based on the test results. Soil pH The pH scale runs from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Numbers below 7 indicate acidic soil, while numbers above 7 mean the soil is alkaline. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0). If your soil’s pH is outside your plants' preferred range, you’ll need to make adjustments. Nutrient Levels The three main nutrients listed are macronutrients that plants usually need in larger amounts—nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). These are the primary nutrients that plants need to grow, and they’re often listed as N-P-K on fertilizer packages. In addition to these essential macronutrients, the soil test comprehensively checks for pH, Buffer pH, Magnesium, Calcium, Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron, Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and organic matter. Recommendations Lastly, look at the recommendations section of the soil test report. This part is particularly helpful because it translates the test results into actionable advice. It might suggest specific types of fertilizer, how much to apply and when to apply them. It could also offer advice on adjusting the pH level or improving soil structure and organic matter content. Unlike other soil tests that may only provide general recommendations, The Sod Solutions soil test kit offers tailored advice based on the specific needs of your lawn and garden. The recommendations section of the report translates the test results into actionable steps, suggesting the exact products, quantities, and application timing to optimize your soil for successful plant growth. Developing a Tailored Fertilizer Plan Once you’ve received the results of your soil test, using it is a lot like using a map to arrive at a healthy lawn. With its customized recommendations, the soil test demonstrates what your soil currently lacks or has in excess. This allows you to choose or mix a fertilizer that meets the exact requirements of your yard. Instead of guessing or using a one-size-fits-all approach, you can target specific deficiencies to make sure your yard gets the right balance of nutrients. This not only promotes healthier, more vibrant growth but also prevents was and environmental damage from over fertilization. With this approach, your garden care becomes more efficient, effective and eco-friendly, leading to a healthier, thriving lawn. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to the weekly newsletter. Author bio: Valerie Smith is Sod Solutions content strategist. To view this article on Sod Solutions website, click here. Sod Solutions is celebrating 30 years of successfully developing and releasing turfgrasses with over 20 market-leading varieties like Palmetto® St. Augustine, Celebration® Bermudagrass, EMPIRE® Zoysia and more.

(guest post by Clint DeBoer) As the weather gets warmer, more people across the US will be starting the DIY projects they have been putting off during winter. Larger renovation jobs are typically more expensive than, for example, redecorating a room with new furnishings, and many will consider attempting these jobs by themselves to save money. However, many of these larger projects have a strong correlation with DIY accidents and require more information than you're likely to get from watching a handful of YouTube videos. Stated plainly, there are certain jobs you should probably not attempt without involving a professional, regardless of the cost. 1. Major Roofing Replacements The risk of injury when working at height on a roof increases with the scope of work and the pitch of the roof. With anything over a 3/12 pitch (a 3-inch rise every 12 inches), you should really consider hiring a professional—the risk of injury is much higher. You may, however, be tempted to take the risk when sorting out a leak or a few broken shingles. If your roof needs major repairs or replacement, however, consider contacting a contractor to assess your home. Roofs can be more complicated than they seem, and those working on them must consider major factors, such as permitting, waterproofing, and nail patterns. It goes without saying that installing or replacing a metal or tile roof requires even more know-how. 2. Tree Removal While cutting off low-hanging branches is typically a very manageable job, cutting down a whole tree is not. Height can be deceptive, and chopping down a tree without knowing exactly how it will fall risks damaging surrounding houses, structures, or other property. Additionally, if you don't cut down a tree properly, you can encounter a "barber chair" incident where the tree splits near the base and kicks out toward the saw operator. This is extremely dangerous and professionals understand how to mitigate this. Our key advice on tree removal can be summed up in three points. If the tree is larger than 12 inches in diameter, stands even remotely close to other structures, or stands more than 25 feet in height, it's probably best to leave this job to an expert arborist. 3. Advanced Electrical Projects The general rule to any advanced electrical project is to never attempt it unless you are experienced in the field. If you need to replace a ceiling fan, outlet, or switch, you can use tools like non-contact voltage detectors to ensure you have properly disabled the breakers before working on the circuit. Larger projects, like installing a high-current EV charger or working on your home's electrical mains, is well beyond the skillset for most DIY’ers. You can also potentially create more problems than you solve. Since working with electricity can potentially result in major injuries, property damage, or even fatalities if handled improperly, you want to make sure you know what you don't know and enlist the help of an electrician whenever possible. 4. Removing Asbestos Even though the U.S. banned asbestos products in the 1980s, some older homes may still contain it as a form of insulation or in certain ceiling and flooring products. If you find asbestos in your home, don't panic. You may be able to cover it safely with a sealer and render the material inert. Then, you can often cover it with another material (like tile or drywall). If you do need to remove asbestos for any reason, you should never attempt to do so yourself. Asbestos fibers have been found to cause certain cancers if breathed in. For actual removal, you'll need to hire an expert to remove the material safely from your home. 5. Major Remodels As part of a DIY project, you may need or want to take down a wall in your home or reroute water supplies and drains for plumbing. A common misconception of home renovation is that it’s as simple as grabbing a sledgehammer and taking your anger out on a wall. While fun—there's a bit more to it than that. In fact, tearing down a wall can be complicated and dangerous. For example, a load-bearing wall cannot be removed without significant structural reinforcements to replace the function of that wall. You do not want to compromise the structural integrity of your entire home just to open up your kitchen or bathroom! You also need to be aware of any electrical wiring or plumbing that could be hidden within a wall. If any are present, you need to take special care to access them. They will ultimately need to be relocated or removed before the wall is fully removed. In addition to the structural knowledge required to safely carry this out, understanding the rules that govern relocating and moving a drain or water supply also leads us to recommend that a professional be involved in these larger projects. Author bio: Clint DeBoer is editor-in-chief at Pro Tool Reviews , an online publication that has been providing tool reviews and industry news since 2008. To learn more, visit www.protoolreviews.com.

The 2024 National Hardware Show featured an Inventor’s Spotlight area, where up-and-coming tools and products were on display in various stages of marketability. Here is a handful of highlights that might turn heads at hardware stores in the years to come. Hydro-Tail The Hydro-Tail is a retrofit water-hose fitting that can be installed to practically any power tool to mitigate airborne dust when cutting concrete and stone. This patent-pending device is a fast and affordable solution for reduction of airborne silica and dust particles for all tools in multiple lines of work. Visit hydro-tail.com. Marshall Level The Marshall Level combines the functionality of both framing and smaller levels into one compact tool, eliminating the need to carry multiple cumbersome levels. Crafted with precision-engineered components, the Marshall Level ensures accurate measurements and alignments. The smaller level nests inside the larger level, and the larger level is extendable from each end. Visit onlytoolsinc.com. Gloveslinger The method of putting on gloves traditionally involves using both hands, which can be cumbersome and hinder multi-tasking or responding to emergencies that demand quick glove application. System Quikdraw’s debut product, Gloveslinger, transforms this process into a swift entry single-handedly or with both hands simultaneously, enhancing safety and efficiency. Patent pending. Visit systemquikdraw.com. Easy Strike The Easy Strike is a multipurpose scraper designed to attached to any powered drill and provide a lightweight, high-impact tool for breaking ice sheets, removing floor tiles, edging lawns, and more. It can be equipped with replaceable tool ends for several different applications. Visit www.easystriketools.com. Major Steelz Knee Pads This three-layer padded knee pad features a long rigid cap for added protection and stability, a non-slip rubber cap to grip floors, and lightweight gel foam cushions that give support without the bulk of heavier knee pads. The locking plastic buckles prevent the knee pads from sliding around. The pads are adjustable with an elastic top strap and webbed bottom strap for a custom fit. Visit www.majorsteelz.com. WallWeb The WallWeb is a new Australian-based device allowing an efficient way to fix broken plasterboard (AKA drywall), such as the common doorknob hole. A working prototype was produced and testing has shown the device to reduce time spent on a repair job by up to 80 percent while still maintaining a professional finish. The WallWeb also creates a back brace that will collapse upon a second impact, therefore preventing damage to the plasterboard at the rear. Visit www.wallwebdevice.com. Easy Open Tired of struggling to twist off stubborn caps? The Easy Open tool provides better leverage for painters to effortlessly open even the most tightly sealed paint buckets. No more straining your hands or risking spills due to loose caps. Visit krscorporation.com . Wall-Russ Wall-Patch Kit The Wall-Russ Wall-Patch Kit is an inexpensive tool kit to patch anchor holes. The kit includes simple tools to prepare the hole for repair and affix the patch. The circular repair patches have a textured finish to blend with orange-peel and knockdown wall texture better than standard spackling. Visit www.wall-russ.co. PushPilot The PushPilot is an innovative drill arbor for a hole saw that uses an internal chamber and a spring-loaded plunger to eject the wood core (AKA coupon) drilled from the hole saw. Trying to remove the coupon from a hole saw can be a slow and tedious chore, but this spring-loaded arbor removes it for you. Visit www.pushpilot.net. 180 Tape Holder With the 180 Tape Holder you have a convenient place where to put your roll of tape.  The 180 Tape Holder has a comfortable, stretchable, and multi adjustment arm band.  The 180 Tape Holder will hold tape with a width of 0.75 in to 2 inches. Use it to hold painters tape or masking tape. Visit www.180tapeholder.com.

How serious of a woodworker are you? It usually starts as a hobby—maybe you're making birdhouses or Pinewood Derby Cars for your Cub Scouts. Next, you've built some simple outdoor furniture, then you're designing beds, making cedar shutters, selling custom shelves on Etsy, and now you've got a website, formed an LLC, and are backlogged with orders! When it comes to woodworking, people engage on a spectrum. That's why our friends at Oneida Air Supply offer a wide range of wood-dust collection systems, from simple DIY models that connect to an existing shop vacuum to larger workshop systems connected to a system of ductwork. This is the wall-mounted Dust Deputy Bagger sawdust-collector from Oneida Air Systems. By using the power of your existing shop vacuum, it's an easy and budget-friendly way to help keep your work area tidy. Why It’s Important to Mitigate Wood Dust Anyone new to carpentry or woodwork will quickly learn what the pros know well: Wood dust can be a problem beyond just the mess. Prolonged exposure to wood dust can elevate that problem from a nuisance to a hazard. Both the skin and respiratory system can become sensitized to wood dust. When a worker becomes sensitized, he or she can suffer severe allergic reactions (such as asthma or dermatitis) after repeated exposure or exposure to lower concentrations of the dust. Other common symptoms associated with wood dust exposure include skin and eye irritation; nasal dryness and obstruction; and prolonged colds. According to OSHA, certain species of hardwood—such as oak, mahogany, beech, walnut, birch, elm and ash— have been reported to cause nasal cancer in woodworkers. This is particularly true when exposures are high. These dust-related problems should make dust collection a high priority. Dust collectors are a type of air-control equipment used in workshops, warehouses and factories. These machines collect and filter dust and particulates that are often released into the workplace. Pros and DIY’ers alike should explore their dust-collection options, because manufacturers offer a range of sizes for large shops as well as small non-motorized units, which DIY’ers can connect to their existing wet/dry vac. Big Systems Serious woodworkers eventually upgrade their equipment, and a fully installed dust-collection system connected to a system of ducts might be exactly what is needed. But you're a woodworker, not an HVAC tech! This is why Oneida Air Systems now offers a ductwork design service, so you don't have to learn a new trade to get the system you want. The service includes a CAD Drawing of the recommended layout, an Itemized list of components, detailed ductwork assembly instructions and more. Oneida also offers ducting supplies made in the USA using heavy-gauge steel to withstand the high air pressures created by the dust collection systems. Still want to design and build it yourself? Oneida has you covered there, too. Download and print the Ductwork Installation Guide as a free PDF. It offers clear and easy-to-use instructions for building an efficient dust-collection ducting system. This 36-page instructional guide includes step-by-step details and color installations to walk you through every step of the project. Oneida Air Systems' latest innovation for woodworkers is the wall-mounted Dust Cobra dust collector with either a 30-gallon drum (left) and 14-gallon wheeled bin.

This is a cool countertop application i which you control the look of the marble-like finish.

(guest post by Betsy Bowers) You may not know it, but expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation can save you money on your taxes. As Tax Day approaches this April 15th, we wanted to highlight how homeowners can take advantage of this tax credit, lower their utility bills, and make a significant impact on the environment too. When you choose to upgrade your home’s insulation, you can qualify for up to $1,200 in an Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit, thanks to the Inflation Reduction Act. That credit is in addition to the average $1,000 savings off yearly utility bills, because improved insulation means a more efficient home as well as fewer greenhouse gas emissions associated with heating and cooling. Choosing select materials, like EPS rigid foam insulation, helps to manage the passage of heat within a building system. But more significantly, there is no lifetime dollar limit. You can claim the maximum annual credit every year that you make eligible improvements until 2033. This can also apply to an additional $2,000 per year for qualified heat pumps, biomass stoves, or biomass boilers. EPS is an ideal insulation choice with proven performance. It delivers measurable advantages in energy efficiency, indoor environmental quality, and durability. It is used in roofing; below-grade applications; floors, walls, and ceilings. Here are some installation tips: Before beginning the installation, it is important to select which type of EPS insulation is appropriate. Boards and panels are typically used for walls, floors, and roofs. Custom molded products are sometimes used for specific applications, such as radiant floor heating systems. After determining the type of EPS insulation you want to use, carefully measure the area to be insulated. Ensure compliance with local building codes for insulation. The surface should be clean, dry, and free from any debris or substances that could impair the insulation’s effectiveness. When installing the insulation, make sure to use a sharp knife or a saw specifically designed for cutting EPS to ensure clean, straight cuts. Measure twice and cut once. EPS boards should fit snugly between framing members without large gaps. Trim as necessary for a nice, tight fit. Use compatible adhesives, mechanical fasteners (like screws with washers), or both, to secure the EPS. Ensure that the insulation is securely attached to prevent shifting or gaps. Then, make sure to seal any small gaps between EPS boards and around windows, doors, and other penetrations to maintain energy efficiency. When installing multiple layers of EPS, overlap the seams between layers to reduce thermal bridging. When installing EPS insulation, make sure to wear protective clothing, gloves, and safety glasses. Ensure good ventilation when using adhesives or sealants, which may emit fumes. For more complex projects, consider hiring a professional to make sure that the installation complies with applicable codes and standards. After installation, EPS should be covered with a protective barrier, such as drywall inside or weather-resistant material outside, to protect it from UV light and physical damage. Inspect the insulation to ensure there are no gaps or areas where the EPS is not properly secured. You’re done! Regularly check the insulation for any signs of damage or degradation over time. EPS is a durable material, but it can be damaged if not properly protected. Make sure to follow these steps and then claim your tax credit! Save money, and the planet while you’re at it. About the author: Betsy Bowers is the Executive Director of the Expanded Polystyrene Industry Alliance (EPS-IA), the North American trade association for the expanded polystyrene (EPS) industry.

We went. We saw. We took some pictures. Here is a rundown of cool stuff I found at the National Hardware Show 2024. Note that I covered NHS from the show floor for social media and up-to-the-minute viewing on people's phone screens, so you'll get a lot of vertical images in this article. This cedar closet kit ships in a flat box ready for easy DIY assembly. Pick the closet kit that works best for you. Minimal tools required to put it together. This is from a small new company called Northern Kentucky Cedar LLC. Smart idea: pivoting wheelbarrow handles! This innovation comes from Pivot-All Motion Tools. The difference between Safe Step Stairs and other attic access stairs is in the ease of opening and closing along with the quick, safe and easy access to your attic space. The Safe Step Stair design is solid under your feet, uses no power and has no electrical parts prone to failure. The only true set of solid stringer stairs that retract to your ceiling. Grabo makes suction-powered tools for lifting heavy building materials, and this technology works better than you’d ever think. The flexible edging around the interface conforms to the contours of the work surface to seal and maintain the powerful suction. Pro Power Brush is designed to perform 20x times faster than the average paint brush. Connect easily to a standard professional paint pump to save time and stop spills. Fill cracks and eliminate buckets. Reduce downtime when painting. The Mammotion line of robotic lawnmowers presents a smart solution that utilizes GPS technology to guide the mowers and eliminate the need for a perimeter wire on the lawn. Something tells me that if you construct a granite bar or countertop gate from a standard hinge, your granite will soon be broken to pieces. The WeberKnapp company offers soft-close hardware with a spring-assist hinge to solve this problem. The Yardlock provides two-way fence gate access and a combination lock on the outside for greater home security. The new Spyder electric pressure washers from Powerplay Corp. have a cool modern design and an integrated hose reel. These units are a lot more compact and lightweight than your daddy’s pressure washer. Coming soon is the company’s hybrid pressure washer, which will be the first unit to offer a combination of AC and DC power to achieve 2,900 PSI. Model shown is the Spyder Hybrid. Keep your outdoor power connections dry and secure with Twist and Seal protectors. My favorite would be the Maxx because it has hooks on both sides to ensure power cords don’t get pulled apart. The protectors come in a variety of sizes for different size cords, and all of them safely seal the connection from water. For my fellow tool-hounds…Check out the Tite-Reach extension wrenches, granting your tools easier access in hard-to-reach areas This looks fun for home cooking. Cuisinart Outdoors previewed their outdoor wok station (available in May). This portable propane-fired wok offers 50,000 BTUs of heat and a large stainless steel prep surface. DCK has been manufacturing for American tool brands for decades and have now launched their own line. Their plan is to “disrupt” the American tool market by offering equal or better quality tools at a lower price point than the competitors. The Tri-clone Trimmer Head from Amkor Trading Inc. attaches to an existing weed eater and allow it to cut grass, bushes, and trees up to 3 inches in diameter. Senix has been manufacturing tools for other brands for a couple of decades, and now the company has launched its own line, powered by battery, gas, or AC. The cordless tools operate on three platforms; 20V, 40V and 60V. These tools are now the house brand of Richard Childress Racing, used in the pit area. Also coming soon… a hybrid gas/battery riding mower! The SlammerTool is a manual jackhammer that operates on the principle of a slide hammer. I’m a big tool-hound and can see real benefits of this tool for earthwork, post-setting, etc. GearHugger is a plant-based lubricant without a sacrifice in performance. Check out this demo reel, where the lubricant competes with WD40. The Magic Carpet is a patent-pending kneeling and work pad that's made in the USA. It is made of a strong and durable textile that is flexible, soft and comfortable, highly absorbent, washable/reusable, and chemical resistant. Onetime Lightweight Spackling from Red Devil is pre-mixed to spread easily for fast, pro-grade repairs to walls and ceilings in just one application. It fills dents, cracks, nail holes, and other small holes in interior and exterior surfaces such as drywall, plaster, wood, and stucco. It dries quickly, doesn't need sanding, and won't shrink, crack, or flake. It can be painted within minutes and cleans up easily with water. East Oak makes all sorts of outdoor entertainment amenities, from patio heaters and fire pits to outdoor furniture. At NHS 2024 they showed off a new electric smoker with a handy visualization window.