A few years ago I built my son a bed using reclaimed lumber from an old farmhouse owned by my grandparents. I now have a second son and a two-year-old daughter, which means I'm on the hook to build two more beds. The bed shown in this article is one I made for my youngest son, combining the same old-growth pine with some new store-bought lumber to create an old-fashioned cabin-style headboard and heavy-duty bed frame. The only difference in design between this one and my oldest son's bed is the orientation of the reclaimed tongue-and-groove (T&G) boards of the headboard—horizontal boards on the first bed and vertical boards on the second—a design detail you can customize for your own bed. Bed Frame The following instructions pertain to a queen size bed, nominally 60-by-80 inches. I used a 12-in. sliding miter saw to cut four 6×6 bed posts to 11 inches. For the bed frame, You’ll need seven 8-ft. 2x4s; four for the bed rails and three for the cross-members. The top of the frame is sheathed with 1/2-in. plywood flush with the edges. Construction of the frame is fairly simple, with the exception of the notched posts that receive the rails. After cutting the posts to size and sanding them to an even height, mark the top ends with a Speed Square, allowing 3-1/2-in. of each 2x4 rail to set inside the corner posts flush with the outside edges of the bed. Use a circular saw to cut the notches (although you'll have to finish the cuts with a jigsaw, multi-tool or wood chisel). A 12" sliding compound miter saw, like this model from Bosch, can cut through a 6x6 in a single pass. Sand the posts flat and even, then notch them to receive 3-1/2” of the 2x4 bed rails. Cut the 2x4 bed rails to length and insert them into the notches, using wood glue at all joints to help eliminate squeaking in the bed. Fasten the rails snugly using 3-in. wood screws. Use at least two offset screws driven through the face of each end into the posts. The outside dimensions of the frame should approximate the size of bed you’re trying to build. This queen size frame measured 58-1/2 by 79 inches. Apply glue to the joints to reduce squeaking in the bed. Drive offset screws through the rails into the posts. Fasten the cross-members by spacing them evenly between the end rails then driving long screws through the side rails and into their end grain. Use two screws at each connection. Make sure the top edge of the cross-members align flush with the top of the posts and bed rails. Cover the bed frame with 1/2-in. plywood, butting the sheets together over the center cross-member. Screw the plywood down using 1-in. screws every 18 inches over the 2x4s and cut flush with the outer edges of the frame. I finished the bed frame with wood stain and two coats of polyurethane. However, I taped off its edges and left the interior plywood unfinished, since it would be concealed by a mattress. Prestain the Headboard My first step was to lightly wash the old reclaimed 1x tongue-and-groove pine to remove loose dirt. I love the old, distressed wood, complete with pinholes and rich character, but didn't want the dirt. Note that any 1x wood boards could be substituted for the reclaimed lumber I used. Rip the rounded edges off the new 2×8’s. The 2x8 boards will composes a frame around the old reclaimed 1x boards. Cut the 2x8s to length, then rip 3x8-in. rabbets along the inside edges of the 2x8’s on a table saw. The grooves will conceal the butted ends of the 1x6 T&G boards. Cut the 2x8s to length. On a table saw, cut a 3/8” groove along one edge of each 2x8. I recommend pre-staining all visible headboard components prior to assembly. There are many options for finishing, but I wanted this bed to maintain the aged and weathered appearance of the reclaimed 1x6 boards. My plan was to combine the reclaimed wood with new store-bought lumber. To make the store-bought 2x8 lumber match the look of the old wood, I distressed the texture of the new boards. To achieve this effect, I beat up the surface, using a hammer, hex nuts and a trucker chain to dent and ding the wood. I even used a punch tool to add some characteristic termite holes that matched the reclaimed pine. Because the new 2×8s had a much brighter color tone than the darker, weathered old boards, I applied a darker wood stain than I used on the 1x6 to achieve a close match between the old and new materials. Headboard Assembly Assembly of the bed’s headboard begins with a 4×8 sheet of 1/2-in. plywood as a backerboard. All the other boards will be screwed onto the plywood backer. I used the sheet’s entire 48-in. height but trimmed its length to 59-1/2 inches. Mount a 2x8 across the top of the plywood backer, cut flush with the edges. Screw it and glue it from the back with cabinet screws. Make sure the rabbet is oriented to the inside edge of the 2x8, creating a groove against the plywood that will conceal the ends of the interior 1x6 boards. Fasten the top 2x8 and one of the legs onto the backerboard. Install the 2x8s using construction adhesive as well as screws driven through the back of the plywood. Install one of the headboard's legs, butting against the top 2x8 and aligning it flush with the edge of the backer. Screw it and glue it securely from behind. Make sure to orient the rabbet of the 2×8 legs facing inside. The legs extend beyond the bottom of the plywood the same distance as the height of the completed bed frame. In my case, the legs extended 11-1/2 inches (post height plus thickness of plywood sheathing). Clamps will help to hold the work-pieces steady while you fasten them together. Note: When screwing from the back of the 1/2-in. ply, be sure to use screws short enough to avoid penetrating the face of the boards. Remember that although the 2x8s are 1-1/2-in. thick, the 1x boards only measure 3/4 inch, meaning any screw longer than 1-1/4 inch will penetrate the 1x board face. At this point, I found it helpful to turn the entire headboard upside down and use gravity to help me keep the boards aligned. I laid out the old T&G boards loosely and adjusted their sequence to get the color and texture pattern I thought would look best to complete the field. The butted ends of the 1x6 should fit inside the groove of the 2x8 to conceal the joints. Adjust the placement and sequence of the 1x6 boards until satisfied with the pattern. Once I was satisfied with the T&G board pattern, I applied glue to the plywood then re-clamped the boards on top using long pipe clamps to close the stubborn tongue-and-groove joints. I fastened them all by carefully screwing through the rear of the backer. As I completed the T&G field, I installed the final leg, sandwiching the old boards between the two parallel 2x8s and squeezing the entire assembly tight with long clamps before screwing them in place. The next step of the headboard is to add the bottom 2x8 cut to fit flush between the legs. I then flipped the headboard back upright to install the surrounding trim. To give the headboard some shadow lines and a more finished appearance, I installed 1x trim that I ripped from the old T&G. First, I ripped two trim boards wide enough to conceal the side edges of the headboard, plus a 3/4-in. reveal. I aligned the rear edge of these two side pieces with the back of the plywood. The trim boards begin at the floor and end flush with the top of the plywood, fastened to the leg with wood glue and finish nails. I ripped the 1x6 boards narrow on a table saw to use as trim pieces. Trim screws from U2 fasteners have small heads that can be easily concealed with filler. The final piece is the top trim board that creates a narrow mantle shelf on the headboard. The top shelf should be cut long enough to create a 3/4-in. reveal over the trim boards on each side. The shelf should also be ripped 3/4-in. wider than the side trim boards to create a 3/4-in. reveal along the top. I used glue and a few trim-head Fine Screws to install the top trim piece. Each trim piece has a 3/4” reveal to add depth and shadow lines. After the headboard was fully assembled, a few coats of polyurethane gave it a rich gloss that highlighted the distressed character of the wood. The two sections of the bed will each be very heavy, so plan to move the completed headboard and bed frame separately. Recruit some help for the labor. When you’re ready to assemble the bed, center the headboard along the back of the bed frame. Use an impact driver to drive a couple of offset 5-in. rugged structural screws through each 2x8 leg and into the 6x6 bed posts. Move the bed into place so the headboard rests against the wall. Apply a mattress. Find a pillow. Take a nap.

These Alabama homeowners were ready to reclaim their basement space to welcome friends and family on game day. They got what they wanted. “The homeowners initially called us because parts of their basement just didn't function the way they needed, and the bathroom needed a facelift,” explains Liz Kennedy, Certified Kitchen & Bath Designer with Elm Construction, LLC. “As you can tell in the project photos, they are huge sports fans and wanted to be able to highlight the memorabilia they have collected throughout the years, as well as enjoy multiple games at a time with their guests.” As part of an extensive remodel, engineered flooring was installed throughout for a warm feel from the bottom up. Painted white walls and sprayed black open ceilings create a backdrop for the family’s sports memorabilia that has been collected over the years. Notable aspects of this basement remodel include a doorway that was enclosed between adjoining rooms. Adding closets to each of these rooms, as well as adding a window in one of the rooms, allowed one area to serve as a separate entertainment area with a sectional sofa, and the other to be a private bedroom. One of the closets also functions as the space for the new HVAC equipment to service the downstairs. A wall was framed at the laundry area to create a cutoff/privacy point to the washer and dryer, as well as provide a space to house the new electrical panel, which the basement required. The old bathroom was completely gutted, and Elm Construction installed a full-size shower with glass tile and mosaic floor with matte black plumbing fixtures. Floating shelves with a stained wood finish provided a warm contrast. New bathroom. The main living area allows for multiple areas of entertainment. (1) At the end of the room is a poker-table area, which includes an overhead cable track light to feature the client’s jerseys and collectibles. (2) The TV area provides space for multiple games to be viewed at once, with more memorabilia featured on the opposite wall with a second cable track light system. (3) The prized jewel of the basement is the custom-built bar area. Poker alcove. The most complex and visited space of this entertaining area, the bar includes a large wall niche with a third cable track light system, which gives even more space to highlight sports memories adjacent to the functional wet bar. An undermount sink and matte black faucet provide the bar with the functionality the homeowners desired, along with a microwave drawer, wine fridge and beverage refrigerator. The wrought iron custom shelving units accent the antique mirror backsplash and the matte black, textured glass pendant. Quartz countertops provide ample service space in contrast with the black cabinetry. Awesome new bar. Island with microwave. All ceilings are left open to provide more height throughout the space, while the wood floor provides a contrasting warmth. Kennedy notes some of the challenges associated with a major basement remodel. “Some of the challenges we faced included the HVAC system,” she explains. “The original location plan was not going to be functional, so we had to change the direction in how the HVAC would operate, and also change the trunk-line size for optimal height in the finished space.” She adds, “A concrete platform had to be removed where an original washer and dryer were housed, and we had to coordinate with a waterproofing company to install waterproofing barriers and to pump water onto the other side of the driveway. And due to the open ceiling concept, gaps and penetrations had to be sealed and insulated for code purposes between the basement and main floor.” The result of all the work is stunning. Between the four TVs on display, the relaxing sofa room, and the spotlights on collectibles, the basement is now a sports enthusiast’s dream entertainment space. Before/After Elm Construction LLC utilizes a design-build process that allows for better coordination between the designers and the contractor to create more efficient and buildable designs and a coordinated team approach. The company’s concept is to use one plan, one contract, and one unified flow of work from the initial concept, through construction, and into project completion. You can find out more about Elm Construction LLC at www.elmbuilds.com.

(guest post by By Sjoerd Bos) Between the BBQ, the patio furniture and family get-togethers, decks handle more traffic than any other wood surface around our homes. The deck is the centerpiece of an outdoor entertainment space, but it’s easy to make mistakes that can keep decks from standing up to the summer sun, weather and foot traffic. The experts at Sansin, a wood-protection company that focuses on eco-friendly solutions, offers these Mistakes To Avoid to ensure wooden decks are properly designed and protected. •  Not considering design impact. Excessive moisture is much more problematic for a deck than UV exposure. Wetting causes the wood to swell and then shrink while drying. From this natural expansion and retraction, little cracks will form as the wood cycles through these extreme conditions. This can cause the wood to discolor and the coatings to wear prematurely. Consider designing landscape, sprinklers and roof drainage to avoid excessive wetting on the deck. This can help reduce these extremes and extend maintenance cycles. • Choosing a coating that sits on top of the wood. Where some film-forming deck coatings may easily peel or flake, water-borne finishes penetrate the wood tissue, protecting the wood from deep within. Penetrating stain/sealers repel water, while at the same time allowing the wood to “breathe” naturally and not trap moisture. • Applying product at the wrong time of day. It is recommended to apply the deck preservative in the morning, out of direct sunlight. A deck that is exposed to sun or has been in the sun all day will be too warm. This can cause the product to dry too quickly on the surface before adequate penetration into the wood grain. It’s easier to put on a maintenance coat than redo a deck. • Not properly prepping the wood surface. Preparation is key to a successful deck project. Here are the steps to follow. First, apply a biodegradable deck cleaner to remove buildup, mold and mildew. Rinse with a hose, and let it dry thoroughly. Next, use an orbital sander with 60-80 grit paper to create a level, consistently porous surface. This will ensure the wood will accept the right amount of product. Now, apply the coating using a garden sprayer and back-brush any puddles of product, but let the product soak into the wood. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying subsequent coats. • Not being proactive about maintenance. “Early bird gets the worm” is an appropriate saying for decks. Doing deck maintenance before visible wear and tear leads to a much easier and enjoyable experience. Be sure to inspect the surface carefully from time to time and look for even the smallest signs that maintenance is needed. It’s easier to put a maintenance coat on than redo a deck. Pro tip: A simple water bead test will indicate if it’s time for maintenance. Apply a few drops of water to the wood decking. If it beads on the surface, the deck is protected. If the water soaks into the wood, it’s time for restoration. • Assuming your deck will wear evenly. A deck may have a high traffic area that leads from the back door to a pool or a much-used lawn area. Alternatively, you may have a couple of areas that get sprayed by sprinklers or design issues such as downspouts or a clogged gutter can cause water to pummel parts of the deck during rainstorms. In the case of uneven wear, putting a maintenance coat over the entire surface may not work to address specific, more acute wear issues. Instead, you may need to treat specific spots by sanding them and applying a first coat of preservative directly to the bare wood. In the case of excessive wear, you might need to redo entire boards by sanding them down to bare wood and then refinishing them with a first coat before applying a second maintenance coat. To learn more, go to Sansin.com.

A patio makes a great place to relax or socialize, and a paver-surfaced patio provides a decorative way to build a long-lasting addition to your home. Pavers are available in many sizes and colors, and they can be laid in a number of patterns. Some of these include stack-bond, herringbone, running-bond and basket weave. These standard patterns can also be created in a wide number of variations. Since patios are typically built with a walking surface just a couple of inches higher than the ground, construction of the patio begins with a lot of excavation. Most paver patios are built with a flexible base instead of a rigid concrete slab. The patio base is made of at least 4 inches of compacted crushed rock. The depth should measure 4 inches after compaction, which means the base begins with a loose bed about 6 inches deep spread evenly across the patio site. In cold climates where ice heaving is a problem, the compacted bed should be deeper, even up to 8 inches. (Vehicular use requires a base between 8 and 12 inches deep). It’s a good idea for the bed of crushed rock to extend 6 to 10 inches beyond the edges of the finished paver surface. Plan the patio layout by marking it with stakes and a string line. Then measure the area in square feet to determine the amount of materials needed. Estimate the number of pavers based on the size and shape of the pavers that you’ve chosen. For waste, add 5 percent for uncut laid pavers and 10 percent for pavers that are to be cut. Note that cutting pavers will require a brick saw, but the pavers can often be laid in a pattern that requires no cutting. You will also need to determine the amount of edging material you’ll need by measuring the lineal feet of the exposed patio sides. You have many options for edging material, including retaining wall blocks, staked-down landscape edging, or a concrete berm. Sand and crushed gravel are measured in cubic yards, and one cubic yard equals 27 cubic feet. Normally, the bed of crushed rock is topped with 1- to 1-1/2 inches of sand. We recommend using concrete sand (rather than masonry sand) because it has a coarse aggregate that resists washing out over time. To find out the cubic yards needed for every 1 inch of sand bed, multiply the square footage by .00309. To determine the amount of gravel needed for a 4-in. bed, multiply the square footage by .01235. When calculating your patio dimensions, first determine the finished top surface of the patio and plan in reverse. Most homeowners want the patio surface to be just a couple of inches above the ground, which provides your starting elevation. From that point, measure downward to determine the depth of the digging, based on the thickness of the pavers, sand bed, and crushed rock. Note that for proper drainage, your patio should slope away from the house 1 inch for every 8 feet. You will need to plan carefully how to manage the delivery and storage of the materials on site. Paver patios are often touted as DIY-friendly projects, but don’t overlook the logistical challenges of moving the materials. Concrete pavers are heavy, and if they aren’t delivered right where you need them, you’ll have to transport them. Iron out these details with your supplier to reduce your labor. Construction of large patios usually requires renting a mini skid-steer and a plate compactor. Expect to do a lot of digging on this project. An assortment of digging tools will come in handy. Breaking Ground Before digging out the patio, call 811, which is a free nationwide service that will come to your home and mark the underground utility lines to help you avoid a costly accident. On the project shown, we used a mini skid-steer for the bulk of the excavation, but the job still required a lot of manual labor to define the edges and to fine-tune the grade. A variety of digging tools will come in handy, including a mattock to pierce the ground, plus a variety of spades, shovels, hoes, etc. We removed a fence panel at the rear of the property and disposed of the excess dirt from the excavation into a wooded area, then replaced the fence panel. After the site has been graded flat, we used a vibrating plate compactor to tamp down the soil. Proper compaction is critical to all phases of a patio project. We recommend that you compact the soil, compact the gravel base, and even compact the patio surface to ensure the pavers are firmly set in the base. (Note: At the rental outlet, request a rubber footplate for the plate compactor to prevent damage to the paver surface when compacting it.) Decide the height of your patio as your starting point, then add up the material layers and work downward to determine your depth of excavation. A landscape rake with an aluminum head helps to level dirt and gravel. For best long-term results, tamp down the excavated ground as well as each material layer of the patio. Cover the compacted earth with landscape fabric. As an extra level of weed protection, we applied landscape fabric over the patio site before construction. Next, the landscape fabric is covered with crushed rock. Spread the rock evenly on the site before compacting it. A landscape rake can be particularly useful to spread the rock because it has a broad metal head with rigid tines to move the heavy material. Since the sand bed will be screeded to match the rock bed, it’s important to engineer the patio slope into the crushed rock. We used a string level to keep an eye on the slope (along with a 2x4, which we used as a gauge to represent the thickness of the paver surface plus the sand bed.) Once the rock bed is graded to the right slope, compact it with the plate compactor. Spread the crushed rock and compact it. We used a line level to ensure we had a slope of 1” per 8’ away from the house. A 2x4 laid on its edge (3-1/2”) served as a makeshift depth gauge to represent the thickness of our pavers (2-1/2” thick) plus the sand bed (1”). Sand Bed and Pavers Next, comes the sand bed, which can be screeded perfectly smooth before applying the pavers. For large patio areas, you might find it easiest to form the sand bed in sections. We used 1-inch PVC pipes to form the sections. The pipes served a dual purpose: (1) as a continuous depth gauge for the sand bed and (2) as the guide-rails for our screed tool. Our method: Lay the pipes parallel to each other 3 to 4 feet apart and pour the sand between them. Use a hoe or rake to spread the sand roughly throughout the section. Use enough sand that it piles above the pipes. Then, use a screed tool stretched flush across the two pipes to strike off the excess sand and level the 1-inch bed flush with the top edge of the pipes. We used an aluminum straight-edge as a screed tool, but a 2x4 board can also be used—just make sure it is perfectly straight. Remove the pipe that is nearest to the edge of the patio, fill its indentation with sand, and trowel it level with the surrounding bed. We then laid pavers over the completed section of sand bed. Begin laying pavers in one corner of the sand bed, carefully adhering to the layout pattern. Use a rubber mallet to set the pavers into the base. Once the pavers are complete in that section, move to the next area of the patio site and lay the pipe parallel to the one already in place (3 to 4 feet away). Add sand between the pipes and repeat the screed process. Then add the pavers. Work from section to section until you’ve completed the paver installation at the opposite end of the patio. Once you pull up a pipe, you'll need to fill the void left with sand and level the surface. To help place the sand in the pipe voids, we made an empty bleach bottle into a sand funnel. Paver pattern and patio shape will determine how many bricks need to be cut. A curved patio will need to have pavers cut to follow the curve of the border. A rectangular patio can avoid those cuts. A basket-weave pattern is ideal because full pavers can be used throughout a square or rectangular shaped patio. Using a running-bond or 90-degree herringbone in rectangular areas will only require half-cuts. A wet saw (or a brick set) can be used to cut the pavers. The paver surface should be compacted when complete. The rental store should include a rubber footplate with the compactor which will help prevent any damage to the pavers. A rubber mallet helps to set the pavers evenly into the sand bed. Final Phases The bottom of the pavers should be recessed below grade with their surface just above ground level. The patio edges should be anchored in place to resist movement and retain the interior pavers. To create edging that will secure the outer patio pavers, we compacted the ground around the patio and then created a berm of fiber-reinforced concrete that ramped against the exposed sides at a 30-degree angle. The berm would eventually get buried and concealed beneath the lawn. As an edge restraint, we compacted the base around the pavers, then installed a berm made of fiber-reinforced concrete. Patio edges that remain above ground (to overcome sloped grades) are built over a short, mortared wall (block or stone with the first course below grade). In such a case, the edge pavers should be mortared to the wall as a final course to retain the inner pavers. Joint sand will interlock the pavers and provide cushion between them to prevent paver-to-paver contact and chipping. The joints need to be filled completely with sand to function properly and interlock the system. We recommend using polymeric sand, which is a mixture of polymers and calibrated sand that becomes a firm, but flexible, paver joint. Some professionals recommend troweling the sand into the paver joints for the best results. Polymeric sand prevents erosion and washout, and resists weeds, ants and burrowing insects. These same basic building procedures can be used to construct paver sidewalks and even driveways (built with deeper base material). Note that walkways should be slightly crowned to allow for settling. Even with proper excavation, sand will often settle in some places, causing a paver to sink out of alignment. However, the modular natural of the construction makes a paver patio relatively easy to maintain, requiring little more than lifting out the bricks and adding sand to level out the spot.

(guest post by Walter E. Bennett) The HVAC system has been a part and parcel of our everyday life. It controls and regulates interior areas' humidity, temperature, and air quality. So, an HVAC is your ultimate tool to fight against the changing weather. However, there might come tough times when your HVAC system leaves you hanging. Before jumping into Google and typing “how to AC repair McKinney, TX,” you first need to identify the problem the device is facing. To help you identify the problem, this article will walk you through the five most typical causes of a potential AC malfunction. 1. Malfunctioning Thermostat The most probable reason why your HVAC might not be working is a malfunctioning thermostat. An HVAC system with a broken thermostat can lead to several problems and impair the comfort of your home. It acts as the temperature control device, commanding the HVAC system to switch on or off following the specified settings. You may face several issues when the thermostat is broken. Inaccurate temperature reading is one of them. For example, the HVAC system might not turn on when the temperature is too high or keep running when it's not needed, wasting electricity. Failure to interact with the HVAC system is another major issue. A broken thermostat may have problems with the calibration or sensor. As a consequence, your HVAC system could not react to temperature changes properly, resulting in inappropriate temperature regulation. 2. Water Leaks Your HVAC system might be suffering from water leakage. These leaks may occur for several reasons, including broken seals, condensation problems, or damaged or blocked drain lines. Ignoring water leaks may cause harm to the system and the neighborhood, regardless of the reason. Water leaks can harm a building's structure and result in mold infestation, corrosion of building components, and poor indoor air quality. Additionally, it may make your HVAC system less effective, which would mean more energy would be used, and more money would be spent on utilities. Additionally, dampness can serve as a haven for bacteria and allergies, endangering the health of those living there. 3. Small Problems Resulting in Loud Noises Loud HVAC noises can be annoying and may indicate more severe issues with your HVAC system. Numerous factors, including worn-out bearings, imbalanced fan blades, loose or broken parts, and airflow constraints, might cause these sounds. Ignoring these noises may result in additional harm and perhaps system collapse. Rattling, hammering, grinding, or whistling are common HVAC noises. Rattling sounds might be caused by loose ducting or system components. Noises like banging or clanging might indicate a broken compressor or motor. While whistling noises might be a sign of a broken fan or restricted airflow, grinding sounds could indicate cracked bearings. 4. Dirty Evaporator Coils Dirty evaporator coils in your HVAC system can cause a range of problems. The system's functionality and effectiveness can suffer as a result. The evaporator coil plays the role of cooling the air by transferring heat from the indoor environment to the refrigerant. When the coil gets dirty, dirt, dust, and debris accumulate on the coil, forming a layer that acts as insulation. This insulation stops heat from transferring from the air to the refrigerant, reducing the system's cooling capacity. Because of this, the HVAC system needs to operate longer and harder to maintain the required temperature, which ends up in increased energy use and utility costs. Moreover, the accumulation of dirt on the evaporator coils provides a breeding ground for mold, bacteria, and other microorganisms. These contaminants can be circulated into the indoor air, potentially causing respiratory problems, allergies, and other health issues for the occupants. 5. Tripped Circuit Breakers Tripped circuit breakers in your HVAC system can cause disruptions to its operation and indicate electrical issues. The circuit breaker is built to safeguard the system from an overflow of electricity, or even short circuits. When a circuit breaker trips, the electricity supply to the HVAC equipment is turned off, resulting in a complete shutdown. Different factors can cause this, such as a defective motor, compressor, or wiring problem. However, dirty air filters or overheating can also be responsible for this. How To Troubleshoot Your HVAC System To Identify The Problem Let’s say you discovered that your HVAC is facing one of these problems. How should you troubleshoot your HVAC system to AC repair? If a malfunctioning thermostat is the case, check the wire connections, recalibrate, or just replace the thermostat. In terms of water leaks, careful preservation and examination of the HVAC system regularly is the prevention key. Inspect the drain lines, make sure that the insulation is adequate, and resolve any moisture buildup symptoms as soon as they appear. Who likes a continuous irritating sound? Regular HVAC maintenance can help avoid these odd sounds. Lubricate moving components, tighten connections, and clean filters. You may benefit from a quieter and more effective HVAC system by quickly correcting loud HVAC issues and performing routine maintenance on the system. You must maintain and clean the evaporator coils regularly. Professional HVAC technicians can perform a thorough cleaning, removing dirt and debris and ensuring optimal performance and energy efficiency of the system. Use good air filters, and swap them out frequently. Resetting the tripped breaker is simply a temporary fix; finding and treating the root of the problem is essential. Consult a specialist for that. Conclusion In terms of any critical condition, it is recommended to consult an HVAC professional. You will get the best AC repair service from a licensed specialist. They can diagnose the root cause easily and repair the electrical issue, ensuring the system's dependable and secure operation.

Mantle shelves can be installed so they appear to float in place on a wall. This requires internal hardware hidden behind the shelf which fastens to the wall studs. Depending on the weight of the shelves, they can be installed using several different methods. The popular rustic-style mantle shelves are often made of a solid timber beam or a live-edge slab. They feature the natural distinction and one-of-a-kind character of solid wood, but they can be extremely heavy and often require professional installation. As an alternative, a DIY woodworker with a table saw might consider building a faux beam to simplify installation. The hollow nature of a faux beam retains the look of the wood but reduces the weight of the shelf, so it doesn’t necessitate heavy-duty hardware such as solid metal rods, which the solid beams require. By using a wooden mounting bracket, you can hang a hollow shelf without requiring the pro-grade tools, precision drilling, or expensive metal brackets associated with installing a solid mantle. And to top it off, purchasing a few 1x and 2x pine boards is typically less expensive than purchasing a hardwood slab or timber beam from a lumber supplier. The Hollow Shelf of the Faux Beam The faux beam shelf is essentially a hollow box constructed of a 3/4-in. boards. The adjoining edges are cut at 45-degree bevels on the table saw so the form square 90-degree box corners. The rear wall of the box is left open to slip over the interior mounting bracket. The example shelf shown in the photos is made from pine because the softwood lumber is easy to dent and ding for a distressed appearance, but if you want a more refined finish, then consider a hardwood species. Decide the dimensions of your shelf and purchase materials accordingly, with the understanding that this design requires a shelf at least 3-1/2 inches thick to house the internal mounting bracket. The interior bracket should be built long enough to bridge at least two studs (usually 16” on-center) for mounting the screws into solid wood. This means the hollow shelf should be built a minimum of 22 inches long to house the bracket. Common dimensions for this type of shelf are 4x8, 4x10 and 6x10. First step is to cut all the 3/4-in. boards to their final length, then use the table saw to rip 45-degree bevels along all the mating edges. To begin assembly, lay three or four parallel strips of painter’s tape on a flat, sturdy work surface. Arrange the three shelf boards edge-to-edge lengthwise at right angles across the tape in preparation to fold them together. Lay the narrowest board between the two wider boards that will comprise the top and bottom panels of the shelf box. Press the tape in place for a better bond to the wood. The beveled joints comprise the edges of the box, and it’s a good idea to use a marker to color the inside edges the same tone as the stain you plan to apply to the outside of the shelf. This will help disguise the assembled edges to look like solid wood. Apply a liberal amount of wood glue to the beveled board edges to strengthen all the wood joints. Use a reliable, high-quality adhesive like Titebond III. Before folding the shelves together for assembly, insert a couple of wood blocks to help support the inside of the boards and maintain the box shape. Carefully fold the three boards together over the blocks. Some separation will happen along the seams, but wood clamps can help keep the seams together and hold the box square. Once the seams are aligned, carefully drive 2-in. brad nails through the right-angle edge joints, spacing them about 6 inches apart. Drive the brads through the top and bottom panels into the narrow board, then drive brads through the center board into the larger panels. The end panels are cut with bevels to fit inside the hollows at the ends of the box. Glue and nail each beveled end panel into place. After the glue has dried, finish the exterior of the shelf for your desired appearance. Wood In Distress Giving a distressed texture to the shelf not only imparts an interesting weathered and aged appearance to the wood, but it makes it easier to close the seams and achieve the convincing look of a solid wood beam. We use a variety of tools—from hex nuts and tow chains to drill-mounted flap wheels—to apply lots of dents, dings and relief to the shelf surface, all of which will absorb wood stain at different rates for interesting visual contrast. Since we’re unconcerned about having perfect edges on a shelf of this style, we hammer or round off the edges with a blunt instrument, which closes the seams at the edge to look like uninterrupted wood grain. Treat all visible edges in this fashion to create the look of an aged beam of timber. Pro Tip: Any small gaps or open seams at the joints can be sealed with wood filler before staining, but the filler absorbs stain at a different rate than the surrounding wood, which can create a mismatch in color. For this reason, it’s a good idea to use a wood filler tinted closely to the color of stain you plan to apply to the shelf. Interior Bracket The internal bracket that supports the hollow shelf is a ladder-shaped structure that will be anchored to the wall studs using 5- or 6-in. structural screws. For a 4x8 or 4x10 shelf, the bracket is made from 2x2 material. For a 6x10 shelf, a similar bracket can be built from 2x4 boards. The number of cross-members will depend on the shelf’s length. For short shelves, one center cross-member will suffice. Note: If you know where you’ll hang the shelf, you can mark the wall studs and locate the bracket’s cross-members accordingly so you can easily screw into the studs without obstruction. The photos in this article will show the basics of bracket construction. Second to the bracket’s hold against the wall, its most important connections are the joints between the bracket’s back rail and its cross-members. To provide a strong hold, we recommend cutting half-lap joints at the ends of the rail. The two end members connect onto the rail with mating half-laps. The half-lap joints provide increased surface area to apply wood glue and are fastened with countersunk cross-grain screws from the top and side, which is substantially stronger than driving screws into the end-grain of a board. You can cut the half-lap joints using a band saw, a table saw equipped with a dado set, or use a router table outfitted with a straight bit. In a pinch, you can even make the cuts with a multi-tool or jigsaw, if the boards are securely clamped to a workbench. When adding any internal cross-members between the end pieces, we recommend driving structural screws through the back rail and down the length of the boards. Apply high-quality wood glue at all joints. The outer rail doesn’t carry as much load, so it can be screwed through the front rail, completing a ladder-shaped bracket with all board joints flush at the top and bottom. (The front rail may be attached after the rest of the bracket has been mounted to the wall.) Bracket for longer shelves include more cross-members. To build a bracket for a larger 6x10 mantle box, use the same techniques to build a bracket made of 2x4 lumber. Installing the Mounting Bracket First, decide your preferred location and height of the Faux Beam Shelf. Mark its top mid-point exactly where you want it mounted on the wall. Tip: We recommend making pencil marks over masking tape to avoid blemishing the wall. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the wall studs at the installation area near the top height of the shelf. Mark the mid-point of the shelf on top of the bracket. Align the bracket’s mid-point 3/4” below the shelf mid-point you marked on the wall. Mark the stud locations on the bracket. On your workbench, drill pilot holes in the bracket for the mounting screws as close to 90-degrees to the wall as possible. If your screws have self-starting tips, you can skip the pilot holes. (Note for DIY'ers: It will probably be easiest to drill the mounting holes with the front rail detached from the bracket. You can reattach the front rail after the bracket has been mounted to the wall. Otherwise you'll need a long bit extension, as shown in the photos,) Return the bracket to the wall, aligning the midpoint marks, then use a bubble level to make sure it is level. Once the bracket is in position, drive 6” cap-head structural screws through its back and into each wall stud it crosses. (The HIR staff uses Construction Screws from U2 Fasteners.) This installation method requires a minimum of two stud connections. Tip: Once you’ve marked the stud locations on your bracket, you might find it easier to start driving the screws while it is on your workbench, then finish driving them into the studs once the bracket is in place against the wall. Drive the mounting screws tightly to ensure stability of the bracket and to arrest any wobble or movement. Install the Shelf Slide the hollow Faux Beam Shelf over the bracket. Center its position, then fasten it by driving trim-head screws through the top board at the very rear of the shelf, sinking them into the back of the interior bracket. Strengthen the installation by driving additional screws into the bracket from the bottom of the beam. The tiny heads of the trim screws will sit hidden just below the woodgrain surface and blend with the look of a rustic-style shelf. SIDE NOTE 1 "Tree Rings" on your Shelf Ends You may have noticed a circular woodgrain pattern on the ends of our floating shelves. At our carpentry business, Rustic Shelves & Shutters, we modified an orbital sander using a disc outfitted with protruding screw tips. We clamp a jig over our 3/4” shelf boards, which holds this tool in place as we use it to carve the circular groove pattern. We then cut our shelves’ end panels from the circlegrooved boards. Once stained, the circular pattern helps complete the illusion of tree rings, which gives the shelf a more authentic log-like look. Although DIY’ers probably won’t be modifying a power sander for this particular detail, the pattern can also be made with circular shapes (cups, bowls, etc.) and scratching tools to impart a similar effect. SIDE NOTE 2 Straight from the Tree Although faux-beam shelves offer a lot of advantages to DIY installers, they are limited to a simple box-like appearance, unlike an actual multidimensional wood slab with its live edge intact. Wood lovers know that sometimes you just can’t compete with the unique character of certain pieces that come straight out of nature. To install smaller wood slabs 2”-3” thick, you can find ready-made metal brackets which can be fastened to the wall and anchored to the studs. The brackets include metal rods that extend outward at right angles from the wall, and the solid shelf must be drilled through its rear edge so it will slip onto the bracket with the rods inserting into the holes and supporting the shelf from within. Although this sounds simple in concept, the operation requires a high-torque power drill, expensive drill bits, and precise alignment so the shelf holes marry with the rod placement like keys in locks. Installation only gets more complicated as the slabs get larger. As they increase in size, the slabs get substantially heavier, and lifting them into place can require professional equipment. These large slabs are usually supported by 1” threaded rod driven at 90 degrees into the solid wall framing. The slabs are carefully drilled out to receive the threaded rods along the rear edge, in the same way the wall brackets interface with the mantle as described above.

Tips for Building and Installing a Secret Pivoting Door Mystery! Intrigue! Excitement! A hidden door in your home can conceal a passageway, serve as a curious conversation piece, or both. A pivoting hinge, also known as a bookcase hinge or a rotating hinge, is a popular choice for creating a hidden door that seamlessly blends into the wall. In this article, we share some tips on how to build and install a hidden door using a pivoting hinge. Kit vs. Construction To add a pivoting hidden door, you have three options: (1) pay a contractor to turnkey the entire project, (2) order a hidden door kit and install it yourself, or (3) build your own door and frame. Option #1 is the most expensive choice but probably the easiest for your stress levels. Option #2 can save time and labor if you have the appropriate tools and some experience installing doors or windows. Option #3 can save money on materials and allow you the most versatility in design, but construction can be difficult and frustrating, especially for first-time builders. Hidden-door kits are available in a range of sizes and styles from a few different companies. The doors can be designed to look like bookcases, wine racks, wainscoting, full-length mirrors and more. Prices for single-door kits range from $1,100 to $3,000. Double-door kits are also available. The kits include detailed instructions that may differ from this article. The prefinished kits also come with the door constructed to align perfectly at the pivot point of the matching door jamb and provide the necessary clearance for operation. This is a big advantage compared to building from scratch, because determining hinge alignment and proper door clearance can be the trickiest parts of construction. But we have some tips to help with that! Our project involved removing an old stock door panel to replace it with a new bookcase-style hidden door that will conceal a small closet beneath a staircase. Before removing the surrounding door trim, first cut the caulk lines with a utility knife Use a small, flat prying tool to loosen the nails of the molding. Protect any of the surrounding furnishings by masking it off with painter’s tape. Constructing the Door Since the door panel can be built as a bookcase, a wine rack, etc., this article won’t spend much time on those details. The panel is usually constructed of a combination of plywood and solid lumber or MDF trim. It is important to make sure you have solid material (wood framing on concrete) at the top and bottom of the door panel to drill out, mortise and install the pivoting hinge. The door panel shown in this project was built as a basic bookcase, fastened primarily with pocket screws and Titebond wood glue. The door must be installed square, level and plumb within the jamb for proper operation. If the surrounding door frame is not square, level and plumb, you will have to correct the problem by constructing a new door jamb on all sides of the door frame. This construction may include a sill plate across the bottom of the door, in which the bottom pin of the pivoting hinge will be mounted. After removing the trim and the door, I found the surrounding door frame was neither level or square. To make sure I had a plumb, level and square frame in which to install the pivoting door, I installed a new door jamb and sill made of 1x6. Shim the jamb as necessary and fasten it in place with screws or finish nails. Mapping Out the Pivoting Hinge Before constructing the door panel, it’s important to understand how the pivoting hinge mounts into the top and bottom, how the panel will operate, and what clearances are required for unobstructed door-swing. Pivots are nearly invisible on most doors. Most single doors only require a top and bottom pivot. Make sure the hinge you select is rated to carry the weight of your door. Installed along the top and bottom edges, the pivot transfers the weight of a door to the top and bottom of the opening, which will often make it easier to operate the door than if it were hung from the side using butt hinges. This effect means that pivots can be used with over-sized or heavy doors. They also tend to last longer and require less maintenance than butt hinges. When you unpack the pivot hinge, you’ll find a paper template that includes dimensions for holes and recesses that must be installed in the door and frame. You will need to determine where on the door and jamb to install the pivot hinge based on the size of your door panel. The 1x6 door sill provides a mounting surface for the bottom hinge bracket. First, determine the size of your door panel based on its function. For example, I built the the bookcase panel with shelves deep enough to hold books and Blu-ray movies. I also accounted for shelf nosing and trim. Door panels can vary in size, but it’s important to determine the overall front-to-back depth of your panel. To find placement of the pivot hinge on the door panel, I recommend cutting a rectangular cardboard sheet to the same depth as your door panel. Next, cut the cardboard rectangle an inch shorter than the width of the door frame. Use the paper pivot-hinge template to trace the bottom hinge near the corner of the cardboard rectangle. (Keep the hinge at least 1 inch from the edges of the rectangle so it does not interfere with the sidewalls or face-frame once the door is constructed.) Then, align the edge of the rectangle that’s nearest to the hinge along the outswing side of the doorway’s sill plate. Center the cardboard in the doorway so it represents the door panel. Using the pivot-hinge template as reference, drive a screw through the cardboard at the exact location of the hinge pin. Now, move the cardboard template within the doorway as if opening the door, using the screw as a pivot point. Depending on the size of the cardboard, its corner will likely contact the door jamb, indicating that a door of that size will be too wide to open. You can then alter the cardboard’s depth or length. In my case, I wanted the shelf depth to remain constant, so I shortened its length by folding up and cutting away the edge of the cardboard rectangle until it cleared the doorway by 1/4 inch when opening and closing. Check all corners of the cardboard to make sure there is no interference in the travel of the cardboard, which represents the footprint of the door you will build. This might take a little trial and error. If it’s too tight on the hinge side, you might need to relocate the pin position. Once you have trimmed the cardboard to the point that you’re satisfied with the way it functions as a door, clearly mark the pin location on the sill plate (or floor) for installation later. Then, use the exact measurements of the carboard sheet as a construction template to build the final dimensions of your door. The cardboard will also serve as a placement template for the hinge, showing the exact mounting location of the pivot hinges on the top and bottom of the door. Build your hidden door panel to match the template. The cardboard template will show the location of the hinge on the door. The cardboard template will show the location of the hinge on the door panel. Use a hammer and wood chisel to carve a mortise in which to recess the hinge bracket. The hinges will need to sit flush with the surface of the door and the surrounding frame. What about the height of the door panel? Refer to the pivot hinge’s packaging for any recommendations regarding overhead clearance between the door and the frame. For the Tambee brand of pivot hinge used for this project, I built the door 5/16 inch shorter than the height of the frame. The pin location of the upper hinge must align perfectly plumb with the lower one you marked on the sill plate. A plumb bob or laser level can help to transfer and mark its location on the top of the door frame. The top hinge engages the door by lowering the pin into place (when you use a screwdriver to adjust the bracket). Both the top and bottom hinge assemblies come with two mating brackets. You’ll need a wood router or hammer and chisel to create a recess for the jamb brackets. These brackets will sit flush with the surface of the frame. Drill any holes that are shown in the hinge template. The mating hinge brackets will also need to be recessed flush into the top and bottom of the door. A hammer-and-chisel or router can be used to cut the mortises. The hinge will include all the necessary screws to fix the brackets in place. Install the bottom hinge bracket (with the spindle) into the door sill. Use a plumb bob or laser level to locate and mark placement of the top hinge on the door frame. Make sure you have plenty of solid wood at the top of the door frame, because you will have to drill out clearance for the hinge pin. The pivoting hinge will include all necessary hardware and fasteners for installation. The top and bottom of the door will need holes drilled for the hinge brackets. After drilling, you can add a trim piece or extra shelf to conceal the hole. Be sure to install the top bracket of the upper hinge so you’ll be able to reach the adjustment screw after the door is set into place. Installing the Door Add any plates or components to the hinge as indicated on your template. The Tambee hinge utilizes a ball bearing that must remain seated in the bottom hinge for proper operation. Note: For bookshelf doors, I recommend installing the “carcass” or empty case (without the shelves) for more manageable weight at this phase of the project. It may help to recruit an assistant to install the door. Set the door by lifting or tilting it into place so the lower pivot bracket (on the bottom of the door) fits over the spindle installed in the floor. Align the upper hinge brackets, then use a screwdriver to turn the screw of the top bracket to engage the pivot pin. Check that the door is operating correctly and adjust the pivots according to the manufacturer's instructions. Align the top hinges, then turn the adjustment screw to lower the hinge pin into the hinge bracket. Test the door for operation then add any shelves or accessories. Adding the Trim After the door panel was completely installed and functioning correctly, I added the shelves and trim. The illusion of hiding the doorway is achieved by clever use of trim and molding. For the most convincing effect, the door should look like the door is built as an immovable feature of the wall, incorporating baseboards and crown molding in a style that matches or complements the existing trim in the room. The face of the door panel can be decorated with a trim package that makes it appear as though it’s built into the wall. This is done by framing the panel with trim boards that are fastened to the wall on the hinge side but are fastened to the door panel on the opposite side. With careful installation that maintains even reveals and shadow lines, the vertical trim on one side will detach from the wall when the door is opened, then the boards nest back into place once the door is closed again. The overall effect makes the panel appear to be a stationary part of the wall whenever closed. Side Note 3 Big Mistakes I Made Okay, time for the confession booth. This was my first time building anything with a pivoting hinge. I made some mistakes I want to point out in hopes that you avoid them on your project. Door-swing direction. Since the pivoting hinge is situated inside the door frame, rather than its edge, the door panel doesn’t allow as much passage space as a standard butt-hinge door. And the deeper the door panel, the more space within the doorway it occupies. I didn’t account for this when I initially installed the door with hinges on the right-hand side. I figured the open door would align against the adjacent wall rather than obstructing the hallway to the left. In practice, the adjacent wall stopped the door from opening very wide, and the depth of the bookcase made gaining access through the doorway (into a closet) too cumbersome. I solved this by moving the hinge to the other side of the bookcase—a lot of extra work. Pivot-bracket alignment. When installing the pivot hinge, understand that the pivot points of the hinge must align, but the brackets that extend from those pivot points do not have to line up with each other, providing more versatility for placement. This can be especially important with the top hinge bracket, because once the door is in place, you need to access the bracket’s adjustment screw to engage the top hinge pin. One of my mistakes was positioning the top bracket so the adjustment screw was concealed by the door once installed. I couldn’t reach it with a screwdriver. I had to remove the door, add blocking around the door frame (inside the closet), then reinstall the top bracket into the blocking so I could reach the adjustment screw once the door was in place. Recess the hinge plates. Because the pivot hinges would be obscured by the door panel, I thought I might save some time by skipping the work of cutting the mortises that recess the hinge brackets flush into the door panel and frame. This was a mistake. After wrestling for a while with the heavy door, trying to get the brackets to align, I realized that the edges of the metal brackets were catching each other and preventing the door from fitting. I had to pull the door out, cut the mortises, reinstall the brackets, then fit the door into place.

State-of-the-art 3D printing technology is presenting a strong, fast and cost-effective method of construction. The construction is accomplished by a mobile robot that extrudes concrete in a pattern to build walls. The technology was developed to transform economically distressed and under-served communities, providing them with needed infrastructure. On Tuesday, December 12, 2023, Alquist 3D and Habitat for Humanity Peninsula & Greater Williamsburg, officially handed over the keys to two 3D printed homes located in the 600 block of 41st Street in Newport News, Virginia. Both homes are approximately 1,200 square feet with three bedrooms and two bathrooms. Alquist 3D and Habitat for Humanity Peninsula and Greater Williamsburg earned national attention after dedicating the first-ever 3D printed Habitat home in the nation in December 2021 to a Williamsburg family. Through its partnership with Alquist 3D, Habitat for Humanity Peninsula and Greater Williamsburg has built more 3D printed homes than any other Habitat affiliate in the nation. The homes were created using printers from Black Buffalo 3D. "While most 3D printing endeavors focus on urban residential areas and commercial buildings, many of the regions facing the biggest housing challenges exist in smaller communities. As migration patterns shift due to climate and economic concerns, smaller communities face a severe housing shortage that must be addressed if they are to attract and retain a workforce. We want to build homes for people who live outside of the places where most funding for housing programs is spent," said Zachary Mannheimer, Founder and Chairman of Alquist. "We see these homes and this partnership with Habitat for Humanity as a major milestone for the American 3D market, and look forward to collaborating with more communities in 2024 and beyond." The United States is experiencing a severe shortage of housing stock, spawning bidding wars that have pushed entire populations out of the housing market. In fact, for every $1,000 increase in the price of a home, 153,967 families are priced out (National Association of Home Builders). However, lumber shortages abound, and prices have skyrocketed more than 300% since April 2020 (NAHB). This increases the price of an average single-family home by almost $36,000. That puts these new houses out of the purchasing range of more than 5.5 million families. Alquist 3D printing construction technology can be used to create home designs both traditional and futuristic, while also lowering the cost of housing. Check out this video of 3D printing construction technology from Virginia Tech:

Installing wallpaper is an easy process and a versatile way to add artistic décor to an interior living space. Before installing, allow the wallpaper to acclimate to your room temperature to avoid shrinkage. The wall should be clean, dry, and free of any bumps or holes. Use sandpaper to make the wall surface smooth and fill any holes or dents with spackling paste. Allow the wall to dry completely before proceeding. Step 1 Measure the height and width of your wall in feet to help you determine how much wallpaper you need to purchase. Add an extra foot to your measurements to allow for any errors or pattern matching. Areas where there is an obstacle (window, door, etc.) will be cut away during installation. Step 2 Mark the height of the wall on the wallpaper, then cut the wallpaper into strips that are several inches longer than the height of your wall. Make sure to line up the pattern on each strip so that it matches up seamlessly. Step 3 Mix the paste according to its instructions. A drill and paddle can make quick work of this task. Step 4 Brush the paste onto the wall, covering the entire surface with a thin coating. Step 5 To improve accuracy, you can measure the strip width, then mark it on the wall lightly with a pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a vertical line from the ceiling to the floor by keeping the mark as a guide. Step 6 Apply the first strip of wallpaper to the top of the wall, aligning the edge of the paper with the ceiling or crown molding. Step 7 Smooth the wallpaper strip from the center outwards to remove any air bubbles using a soft, dry cloth or smoothing tool. When hanging other strips, make sure to avoid overlapping them. Match the images or patterns and paste the wallpaper edge to edge. Step 8 If you press the strips firmly with a roller or smoothing tool, the seams should not be visible. While wallpapering, be careful with the paste, and if it gets on your wallpaper’s surface, wipe it with a clean dry cloth. Do not use a wet or damp cloth for this, otherwise it could rub off the ink. Step 9 Cut and apply the remaining wallpaper strips, aligning the pattern as you go along. Repeat until you have covered the entire wall. Trim the excess wallpaper along the edges of the wall using a sharp knife or wallpaper scissors. Finally, clean any excess glue from the wallpaper with a damp sponge. In areas exposed to water splashes, we recommend coating it with a matte decorator's varnish to ensure the water-resistance of the paper. Make sure the room has good ventilation then allow the wallpaper to dry at room temperature for at least a day before restricting the airflow in the room. Side Note 1 Quick Tip for Peel & Stick To install peel-and-stick wallpaper, follow the same instructions detailed in this article, but instead of pasting the wall, you simply peel off the release liner and apply the wallpaper to the wall. If you see any air bubbles during installation, avoid rubbing them out with a smoothing tool, because they’ll only return. Instead, peel up the wallpaper and reinstall it until it’s applied with no air bubbles present. This can require some patience but will result in a better finish. Image © York Wallcoverings Side Note 2 Installing Murals When hanging a wallpaper mural, each panel will arrive as a roll. Unroll all panels and identify the order that they need to be hung from left to right. Note that the mural has typically been printed slightly larger than your wall dimensions to create excess. When installing the first panel, make sure to use the vertical excess at the tops and bottom, which will help with uneven walls. Paste the wall and begin hanging your wall-paper from the top downward. Smooth away all the ripples or bubbles using a soft, dry cloth or smoothing tool. When hanging the following strips, make sure to avoid overlapping them. Match the images or patterns, then paste the wallpaper edge to edge.

Evolving construction codes and innovative hardware solutions are presenting better ways to build an outdoor structure. Metal connectors, hidden fasteners, and foundational supports are changing the way decks and pergolas are assembled from the ground up. Outdoor Accents Decorative Hardware Pro remodelers and DIY’ers can design and build beautiful and structurally strong custom outdoor structures like pergolas, pavilions, arbors, gazebos, fences, and patio covers using the popular Outdoor Accents decorative hardware from Simpson Strong-Tie. New product additions to the Outdoor Accents Mission Collection and Avant Collection both offer a choice of styles to suit your taste — from ornate and traditional to clean and simple. No matter which collection you choose, all Outdoor Accents connectors and fasteners are rigorously tested for strength and performance. Both collections feature an innovative hex-head washer and fastener combo, so you'll get the look of a bolted connection that installs as easily as driving a screw. And the black powder-coat finish ensures an eye-catching appearance. The concealed-flange hangers feature straight edges and provide a cleaner-looking installation for joist connections. Visit www.strongtie.com. Titan Wood Post Anchor Another concealed connector is the Titan Wood Post Anchor that makes it possible to install privacy panels, pergolas, gazebos, and wood posts on decks by surface-mounting to wood, composite, concrete, or stone surfaces with a low visibility connection. The Titan Post Anchor is available in 4x4, 4x6, 6x6 and 8x8 sizes for wood posts on wood or composite decks, stairs, patios, concrete or other hard surfaces. A sharp-edged, lightweight, rigid tube tracks into a pre-drilled circular saw kerf and then cuts deep into the core of the wood post. The tube holds the post and anchor together longer, providing greater security rather than screws alone. This makes the connection more visually appealing. Where more strength is needed, optional Post Braces are available. (Check local building codes in your area before installing this product.) Visit www.titanbp.com. HDG Deck Support Brackets HDG Engineered Products offers a line of heavy steel brackets to reinforce a wood deck frame and secure it to a house. The Steel Structural Deck Support System includes ledger brackets that support more than 1,500 pounds with a 4- or 5-inch standoff, designed to connect decks to walls with brick veneer siding. Also available are 12-gauge galvanized post and corner brackets (stainless steel is also available). This unique structural deck support system strengthens and reinforces wood deck and porch framing components by connecting the outdoor structure to the adjacent home’s floor structure. The H1 Series Deck Ledger Brackets are structurally designed to securely attach decks to building frames. The H2 Series Corner Brackets support the outside Rim Joist and connect it to the Deck Ledger Board as well as provide reinforcement for the 4x4 Handrail post bolts. Visit www.hdgep.com. Deck2Wall Spacers The deck-ledger connection is notoriously susceptible to rot, which can dangerously affect the stability and support of the deck. Deck2wall Spacers help prevent rot from occurring by separating the ledger from the supporting structure, providing a path for water and debris to flow harmlessly through the assembly, while promoting circulation and drying. Stacked washers have often been used as spacers over lag bolts, but Deck2wall Spacers have attachment holes to keep them in perfect alignment for faster and easier installation. They offer more bearing surface than washers for better load distribution, and the plastic spacers are non-corrosive. Plus, the one-piece design and installation method provide superior waterproofing. Deck2Wall Spacers also work as a long-lasting solution for attaching shade structures, posts, stair stringers, landings, built-up beams or mechanical equipment. Made in the USA and available in two sizes, the spacers are injection-molded, fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene. Visit www.deck2wallspacer.com. Camo Block Floating Deck Foundation National Nail's Camo Block is a lightweight, heavy-duty polyolefin deck block for building above-ground decks, platforms, and other exterior projects. It is designed to eliminate the need for heavy cement blocks. "At just over 2 lbs., the Camo Block is significantly lighter in weight than traditional concrete blocks, so you can easily transport them in one trip to the truck and onto the jobsite," explains Greg Groenhout, Camo Product Manager. "It is the most versatile deck block on the market, accepting 4x4 and 6x6 wood posts, 2x wood joists, and up to-2 in. metal joists. And because the BLOCK is precision-engineered to fit these sizes, you get a snug fit without the effort and headache of chiseling out the channel." Made of long-lasting polyolefin, Camo Block will not chip or crack, even in cold weather. It's made from recycled material and can be recycled at the end of its life. Each Block is precision-molded to fit standard lumber specifications without the need for modification on the job. It features ribs and weep holes to direct water away from the substructure and prevent buildup, rot and mold. Load-rated to support 1800 PSI, the Camo Block is designed to build freestanding decks from 5-1/2 to 30 in. high. They can be used for various platform profiles, including low-profile, raised-profile, variable-height, and hybrid-profile. They can also be used for rooftop decks, landings, walkways, sheds, and dog houses. They can be installed on any flat and firm surface, including uneven ground with some leveling. The Camo Block is backed by a 30-year Limited Warranty. Visit camofasteners.com. DeckLok Lateral Anchor The DeckLok is a versatile lateral anchor that can strengthen all sorts of connections on your deck. It can help prevent deck collapse, railing collapse, and stair collapse. On railing systems, DeckLok provides a bolted connection between the guard post and the floor joists of the deck. IBC Code requires the guard rail post to resist a force of 500 lbs. at a point 36 inches above the surface of the deck, and DeckLok achieves this. Mounting the DeckLok lateral anchors directly to the base of the rail post, or to the deck board, creates a solid mounting surface while still using traditional construction techniques. For stair stringers, DeckLok adds rigidity and strength by creating a bolted connection to the deck band board and the stringers. The patented design ensures a more secure attachment between these deck components, reducing the possibility of structural failure. At ledger connections, DeckLok can provide a bolt-on connection between your deck and the house’s floor joist. Current building code requires decks to be bolted to the band or rim board of the house. Note: The International Residential Code (IRC) now requires the connection to the structure to be designed for both vertical and lateral load, and DeckLok does this. Visit www.deck-lok.com. U2 Fasteners Universal and Construction Screws U2 Fasteners describes its enhanced Universal Screw as a “deck screw on steroids,” ideal for replacing old, failing deck screws. Made of case-hardened carbon steel, these self-starting screws feature U2’s trademark Tight Star Recess, so they grip the matching U-bit so tightly they allow for one-handed installation. Underneath the Universal head, special Burrow Pockets are engineered to countersink into the toughest of materials. This screw is available in sizes ranging from 1/2 to 12 inches, as well as in an assortment of stainless 316 versions. For structural connections, the U2 Construction Screw (aka the CS Screw) is the next generation of structural screw that is replacing lag screws. It features a dome head for enhanced strength, a self-starting tapper point, and “Talon Grip” nibs beneath the head that prevent loosening when countersunk. Plus, the Reamer Thread enlarges the hole in the material to reduce tension on the screw head when drawing materials together. The CS Screw is a fast-driving and reliable choice for installing ledger boards, anchoring beams, and other heavy-duty construction tasks. Visit www.u2fasteners.com. Skylift Roof Riser Want to extend a roof over a deck or patio? The heavy-duty Skylift roof riser bracket extensions feature professionally-engineered construction and a black metal finish. Designed to easily increase the height and/or pitch of most patio, deck and pergola roof coverings, the 18- to 36-in. powder-coated brackets can attach to rooftops, building sides, and more. The SkyLift hardware brackets are a simple, secure, and sealed method to install an attached roof over your outdoor living area. Visit www.skylifthardware.com. TOOL SPOTLIGHT DeckWise Hardwood Wrench Jr. Deck installers and contractors know the original Hardwood Wrench is the beefiest, most stout deck board bending tool on the market! DeckWise® has now scaled down the Hardwood Wrench to a "junior" size for the DIY'er, weekend warrior, and pro deck builder. Even the most seasoned deck installer knows how grueling it can be when wrangling bent and warped deck boards into submission. Especially when it’s a one-man show or a weekend project. This is where its multidirectional components and multiconfiguration features save the day. The uncomplicated design of the Hardwood Wrench Jr. fashions it as one of the most innovative board straighteners ever created. Its simplicity results in a lightweight, economical deck-board tool, making it a valiant contender bending unruly hardwoods, thermal woods, pressure-treated, and composites. Use when fastening edge-groove clips or when top-down face screwing on either wood or metal joists. Its universal versatility easily adjusts to fit 1-1/2- to 3-in. wide joists and utilizes a cam-lever action pushing up to 1,100 lbs. of force. This rapidly increases on-site deck installations with more efficiency over typical pry bars or chisels. The advanced and patented technology utilizes a rotating, locking cam coupled with an elongated dog-leg which stabilizes and locks this tool into place. Additionally, there are no uncooperative wheels, dials, clamps, or flexible tubing that can slip or spin off the board or joist, making the installer stop fastening just to reset the tool again, and again. Hands Free Deck Board Fastening! ·         Rotating Cam Locks-in Boards ·         Up to 1,100 lbs. of Pushing Force ·         Solid Steel Pins Grab Joists Tight ·         Multi-Directional Capabilities ·         Right- or Left-Hand Operation ·         Reversible Handle for Tight Spaces ·         Adjustable for Single and Double Joists Give yourself the freedom you need with a deck tool that delivers true "One-Man, One-Hand Installation" capabilities. Simply set your deck boards in place to install hidden deck fasteners or face screws. When an unwieldy board comes your way, place the Hardwood Wrench Jr. (or Hardwood Wrench) onto a joist in either single- and double-joist configuration, and slide it up the joist so the locking cam touches the edge of the warped board. Effortlessly swing the handle upward to lock the board into a straight position, locking the board in place. Now continue fastening the deck board. It’s that easy! It easily adjusts to fit 1-1/2- to 3-in. wide joists and utilizes a cam-lever action pushing up to 1,100 lbs. of force. This rapidly increases on-site, one-handed deck installations with more efficiency than using pry bars or chisels. Simply set your deck boards in place to install hidden deck fasteners or face screws. Place the Hardwood Wrench Jr. onto a joist in either single and double-joist configuration, and slide it up the joist so the locking cam contacts the edge of the warped board. Swing the handle to lock the board into a straight position, then fasten the deck board. The advanced and patented technology utilizes a rotating, locking cam coupled with an elongated dog-leg which stabilizes and locks this tool into place. Visit https://www.deckwise.com. Watch DeckWise Marketing Director, Roderick Kabel, walk you through the Hardwood Wrench Jr. components and usage.

From power tools and kitchen appliances to hand tools and stocking stuffers, Home Improvement and Repairs has your gift ideas covered for the handymen and homeowners on your holiday list. Pinnacle Marking and Measuring Tools Pinnacle measuring and marking tools include general measuring instruments and finely calibrated tools for both advanced and entry-level woodworkers. “We emphasized ultra-precise design when we were creating these tools,” says Senior Product Development Manager Joe Young. “For instance, Precision Squares are monolithically machined out of one piece versus having riveted panels. This reduces any possibility of error in assembly.” New items added to the lineup include the 24-in. Precision T-Square, Drawing Triangle Set, Straight Rules (both Imperial and Metric), Thumb Rules (both Imperial and Metric), Precision Squares (both Imperial and Metric), Center Finder, Universal Slide Stop for Rulers, Straight Rule Hook Stop, 18-in. Triangle Ruler and Mini Carpenter Square. Visit woodcraft.com. Scrigit Scraper The Scrigit Scraper is a pen-shaped, non-scratch cleaning tool that provides a quick and convenient way to remove small amounts of unwanted substances from household and automotive surfaces, edges and grooves. It can be used instead of fingernails and metal tools to quickly clean off small areas of unwanted substances, such as grime, caulk, putty, candle wax, latex paint splatters, dried food, adhesive stickers, labels and tape. The Scrigit Scraper is two scrapers in one. A rounded tip simulates the scraping shape of a fingernail for scraping off small spots, cleaning curved surfaces, and removing adhesive labels, stickers and tape. The flat-edged tip is best for getting into tight spaces and cleaning off unwanted materials from flat surfaces, edges, corners and door tracks. Made in the USA of a durable plastic resin that easily washes clean and won’t conduct electricity, the Scrigit Scraper is available in 2-packs and 5-packs. Visit www.scrigit-scraper.com. Vampire Tools Super Combo Scissors These multipurpose scissors are designed for cutting leather, fabric, rope, carpet, cord or metal wire. It thins the branches of plants and cuts many other soft materials. The cutting edges are sharp, and micro-serrations provide a firm grip during cutting. The wire cutter between the handles cuts aluminum, soft steel and copper wire up to 3/32. The outer edge of one blade has a box cutter. The S-shape grips are designed to convey maximum applied power to the blades. The Combo Scissors are made of high-carbon steel. Visit www.vampiretools.com. Dust Deputy Low-Pro Lid Separator Need to manage wood dust at the home, garage, or small shop? From the company that brought you the original Dust Deputy cyclone—the first pre-separator for wet/dry vacuums—Oneida Air Systems releases the Dust Deputy Low-Pro lid separator. At only 4 inches tall, the Dust Deputy Low-Pro is the most compact separator available from Oneida Air, allowing it to fit underneath a workbench and in other tight spaces. Uniquely designed to offer up to 50 percent more airflow (CFM) and allow debris to pass through unobstructed—two common limitations of other lid-style separators—the Dust Deputy Low-Pro excels in its ability to collect a variety of materials, from wood dust to trash. The new Dust Deputy Low-Pro pre-separates 99 percent of dust and debris before it reaches your vacuum’s filter, eliminating clogging and suction loss while extending the life of your filter. Made in the USA from clear, durable resin and designed for vacuums with 2.5-in. hoses, the Low-Pro lid separator attaches to any standard 5-gallon bucket with two included latches. Visit www.oneida-air.com. Milescraft TrackSawGuide The Milescraft TrackSawGuide turns your circular saw into a precision guided track saw system. Eliminate risky freehand cutting that can wind up costing you valuable time, money and frustration. The universal base fits most circular saws with up to 7-1/4-in. blades, making the system the perfect straight-cutting option for nearly everyone. Rigid aluminum construction helps reduce flex and improve accuracy. The low profile also helps your saw cut through stock over 1-3/4-in. thick. Achieve perfectly straight cuts for your project whether you are ripping sheets up to 50 in. long, cross cutting, or angle cutting with the TrackSawGuide. Visit www.milescraft.com. Georgia Boot Athens Combining comfort and rugged features, the Athens collection has long been one of Georgia Boot's most popular collections. This men's Chelsea boot’s upper is made from full-grain leather and includes elastic twin gores. The twin gores make the boot easy to slip on and take off. The Georgia waterproof system is 100-percent guaranteed to keep feet dry. Also included is a mesh, moisture-wicking lining that wicks away sweat throughout the day. Comfort is provided by the polyurethane AMP LT insole. Polyurethane insoles are thicker than conventional insoles, and the AMP LT has the added benefit of being topped with memory foam. Memory foam conforms to the shape of the foot and cushions each step. This Athens boot uses the proprietary TPU Anchor Disk shank to protect the underside of your foot. The boot has been built with a combined cement and stitch-down construction, and the rubber outsole is both oil- and slip-resistant. Visit www.georgiaboot.com. Tempest Forstner Bits Drill with perfection using the new Tempest Forstner Bit line from Bora Tool. With a precision-ground cutting edge and small center point for easy registration, this bit ensures accurate, clean and efficient drilling. Forged from high-speed steel in Austria, the Tempest bits feature an enhanced balance and pro-level geometry, designed to eject shavings, minimizing heat and extending the bit's life. With a precision-ground cylindrical shank, the bit is compatible with power tools and drill presses, making it the perfect choice for any woodworking shop. Available in metric and fractional sizes and sets, the Tempest Forstner Bits cover all drilling needs. Visit www.boratools.com. Handy Paint Pail The Handy Paint Pail is the original do-it-better tool designed for functional, efficient painting. Built for both professionals and DIY painters, the Handy Paint Pail offers innovative features so simple anyone can use, clean, and store it effortlessly. Built to last, the durable construction is made to withstand years of use with any paint or stain. The Handy Paint Pail Liners offer efficient clean-ups and quick color changes. Designed with a perfect fit for the Handy Paint Pail, the liners save time and mess. Visit www.handyproducts.co. Craftsman SpeedDrive T-Handle Multi-Bit Screwdriver Winner of a 2023 Pro Tool Innovation Award, the Craftsman SpeedDrive T-Handle Multi-Bit Screwdriver (CMHT68135) features ratcheting technology for dual-direction ratcheting that drives screws twice as fast. It accepts bits easily and holds them firmly during use. The advanced T-Handle design delivers twice the torque as straight handles. The handle also includes integrated storage of six double-ended bits. Visit www.craftsman.com. Werner Multi-Position Pro with Dual-Side Leveling Werner’s new version of the Multi-Position Pro has dual-sided leveling. The 5-in-1 ladder works for a variety of uses—as a step ladder, as an extension ladder, or on a stairway. And now it adjusts to uneven surfaces. Now, each side of the ladder adjusts up to 7 inches to provide solid footing on uneven ground. The leveling adjustment is available on both the left and right feet. To re-adjust or retract, simply click the pinch-proof yellow lever near the base of the ladder. An extended tab on the outside of the foot makes it easy to extend with your foot, even in work boots. Visit www.wernerco.com. Flex Torch The Whip-It! Flex Torch features a flame that rotates in three different angles (0°, 45°, and 90°) for a variety of applications at home or professionally. Its Piezoelectric Ignition Technology coupled with a precision flame tip delivers unparalleled power and five-star performance. The Flex Torch is available in a collection of colors and includes a carrying case. The Flex Torch won the most “Innovative Technology Product” award at the StarChefs International Chefs Congress (ICC) in Brooklyn. Visit www.whipit.com. Vampliers 7″ BOSS Screw Extraction & Wire Cutting Pliers Vampliers Technology utilizes a patented design with vertical and horizontal serrations that lead down the inside of the jaws to the tip of the pliers and generate a “teeth-like” gripping power with no slippage, whether using the top or side jaw. The 7-in. Boss VT-001-7 Pliers easily removes stripped, rusted, torx, and dome-head screws, as well as low-profile screw heads. It has a side cutting feature for steel and copper wire. Visit www.vampiretools.com. Bosch 18V Oscillating Multi-Tool The HIR team calls these types of tools “buzz-cutters” because “oscillating multi-tool” is a mouthful, and Bosch makes a fine one with the new 18V StarlockPlus model (GOP18V-34). It features a new design for better handling, increased cutting performance, and an outstanding blade grip with the StarlockPlus interface. The battery position has been rotated by 90 degrees to make handling more convenient with less interference when flush cutting. Compared to the previous generation of the Bosch multi-tool, vibration has been reduced by 80 percent. Visit www.boschtools.com. Worx 20V Power Share PRO 7-1/4” Sliding Compound Miter Saw The Worx Power Share PRO Sliding Compound Miter Saw with 20V 4.0Ah Power Share PRO Battery is ideal for cutting trim and molding, building decks, and making bevel and angle cuts. The benchtop miter saw weighs 21 lbs. (with battery) and with its aluminum base construction weighs less than conventional 10-in. sliding compound miter saws. Most miter saws have hold-down clamps, but the Worx saw features a clamp that's lever-operated and holds down the work piece firmly in place on both sides of the blade throughout the cut. The feature presents a safer solution in keeping hands free during cutting operations. The Power Share PRO battery provides improved power protection and runtime through an intelligent battery management system with cell-cooling technology. This 7-1/4 in. saw easily cross-cuts 1x6’s, 1x8s or 2x4’s. Besides cutting crown molding, trim and window casements, it cuts picture frames and more. Maximum depth of cut at 90º is 2-1/4 in. The saw’s hi-vis miter scale sets up miter cuts from 0 to 47º with positive stops at 0, 15, 30 and 47º left/right. The bevel scale sets cuts at 0º and 45º. Depth stop adjustments are included for repetitive cuts. Visit www.worx.com. Bauer Drill Press Perfect for the shop, garage or home, this Bauer 8-in. Benchtop Drill Press has five adjustable speeds that drill with precision in wood, metal, plastic and more. The convenient LED work light clearly lights the workpiece. The heavy-duty cast iron headstock and base help reduce vibration. It has a powerful 1/3 HP, 2.3-amp motor and five adjustable speeds from 750 to 3,200 RPM. The 6-1/2 in. x 6-1/2 in. cast iron table rotates 360° and tilts up to 45° left and right. The drill has a 2-in. maximum quill travel. Visit www.Harborfreight.com. Colorfil HVAC Filters Know any pet owners who have trouble keeping track of HVAC filter changes? The NASA-approved Colorfil air filters not only eliminate odor and remove small particles for better health, but they also have a patented Color-Shift technology that changes from hot pink to yellow to show when a new one is needed. More importantly, users don’t have to spray the air with perfumy or harmful products for their guests or their pets. If users have a dog with dander or a stinky kitty-litter box, it's a helpful product for breathing easy. Visit www.colorfil.com. New Senco Finish & Trim Tools This new generation of Senco tools are designed to save you time and money while offering innovative features and uncompromising quality. The newly introduced models include BN31M1P, LS61H1P, TN11G1P, TN41P1P, and TN51P1P, each designed to meet a diversity of fastening applications. The BN31M1P is a powerful and lightweight 18-gauge brad nailer ideal for finish and trim applications where you want the power to drive through dense materials without splitting the work surface. The TN51P1P is 15-gauge angled finish nailer designed to deliver the holding power necessary when installing large interior and exterior trim such as casing, paneling, cabinetry, and a wide variety of other finish applications. The tool is designed with convenient features such as SENCO’s quick-clear latch to quickly clear jams, and a dry-fire lockout identifies when to reload without causing unnecessary wear to the internals of the tool. Visit www.senco.com. Lock Socket Cord Lock The new Lock Socket Three-Prong Electrical Cord Lock is designed for use on sensitive equipment that needs to always remain plugged into a power source. Easy to use and install, the Cord Lock fits around standard size male electrical cord plugs. To install the lock, users simply remove the original outlet screw from the wall plate, plug in the cord, and then secure the Lock Socket to the wall outlet using the proprietary security screw and provided Allen Key. The Lock Socket Three-Prong Electrical Cord Lock can be used in computer rooms, classrooms, healthcare settings, and on construction jobs. Visit www.locksocket.com. Handcrafted Porch Swing The Porch Swing Company's diverse design selection covers traditional, farmhouse, rustic, and coastal styles. An excellent gift for your loved ones, these handcrafted swings are available in a huge assortment of sizes and styles, built from your choice of wood, metal, plastic or wicker. Choose from suspended porch swings, swing beds, gliders, rocking chairs, benches and more. Visit www.theporchswingcompany.com. Metabo HPT 18V MultiVolt Cordless Brushless Impact Driver At only 4.72 inches long and weighing just 2 lbs., the 18V MultiVolt Cordless Brushless Impact Driver (model WH18DEX) has the power to drive stubborn screws and bolts and can do so in tight spaces. This cordless impact driver is part of the expanding MultiVolt System of 18V and 36V power tools from Metabo HPT. The user can go lighter by using the included compact 18V battery or go longer with a flexible 18V/36V MultiVolt battery (sold separately) to double runtime per charge for more power on the go. It’s backed by Metabo HPT’s Lifetime Lithium-Ion tool body warranty for peace of mind. (Also available as tool body only—model WH18DEXQ4.) Visit www.metabo-hpt.com. Milwaukee M12 Fuel Cordless Jig Saw Designed for the professional carpenter and remodeler, the Milwaukee M12 Fuel Jig Saw is optimized for power and precision on the jobsite. The saw delivers the fastest 12V blade speed under load, more control in more orientations, and maximum cut-line visibility. The PowerState brushless motor and RedLink Plus intelligence deliver 3000 strokes per minute at a 7/8-in. stroke for clean, controlled cuts in a wide variety of finish materials. The compact size, low vibration, and ergonomic barrel-grip design provide more control across standard and inverted orientations of usage. The saw is equipped with an on/off LED light and an on/off dust blower to optimize cut-line visibility. The M12 Fuel Jig Saw features orbital action with 5 adjustment levels, variable speed dial, blade storage, tool-less blade change, a durable aluminum base plate with bevel detents, and carries an industry-leading 5-year limited power tool warranty. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Ryobi 40V HP Brushless Leaf Blower Using 40V HP technology and a jet fan design, this cordless blower delivers more power than a 27cc gas blower without the mess, maintenance or hassle. This blower runs for up to 30 minutes on high, or up to 120 minutes on low when paired with two 40V 4Ah batteries. 40V HP technology combines a brushless motor, advanced electronics, and lithium technology to power through heavy lawn debris and wet leaves with 730 CFM and 190 MPH. Designed with noise-dampening foam and a uniquely positioned fan, this Whisper Series blower is engineered to be 86 percent quieter than gas and even other cordless blowers. The variable speed trigger and turbo button allow you to dial back air output when in delicate areas like blowing leaves from mulch beds, and then engage the turbo when clearing tougher debris. Visit www.ryobitools.com. Ridgid Mini Palm Nailer Ridgid introduces the new R350MPF Mini Palm Nailer, which is 65% more compact than the company’s existing Palm Nailer (R350PNF). Ridgid’s Mini Palm Nailer gets into tighter spaces that framing nailers or hammers can’t. Weighing only 1 pound, this nailer is capable of driving most common nails all day with ease. The magnetic nail channel keeps nails in place for efficient one-handed operation. The integrated quick-connect swivel coupler delivers more maneuverability with fewer air-hose kinks. Best of all, the Mini Palm Nailer is eligible for the Ridgid’s Lifetime Service Agreement; simply register within 90 days of purchase for free Parts, free Service, for life. The R350MPF includes the palm nailer, oil, and hex key. Visit the Home Depot or www.HomeDepot.com. Diablo Angled Sanding Block Diablo Tools reusable, angled hand-sanding block has a dual-sided body design that features both a cushioned foam side for contour sanding and a dense foam side for flat sanding. It is designed to fit the exclusive Diablo SandNET sanding sheets—the only reusable sanding sheets on the market today. Traditional foam sanding blocks only provide a one-density, single grit application. With their inferior foam design, those sanding blocks are highly disposable, clog up and wear out quickly, resulting in less material removal and more time and money spent on the job switching out blocks. In response, Diablo’s new angled reusable block is the only sanding block that is truly a “tool,” allowing users to reuse it time and time again. Traditional sanding sheets are prone to ripping, clogging, wearing out and require constant replacement. With Diablo’s clog-reducing net design, SandNET sanding sheets outperform and extend sanding life up to 10X than other products. If it begins to load or clog, just clean the grit by shaking, vacuuming, or rinsing for continued use. Visit www.diablotools.com. Stiletto TiBone Titanium Framing Hammer The new Stiletto TiBone Titanium Framing Hammer is fully redesigned with improved handle durability, anti-rotational face, and replaceable colored grips. The new lineup includes two 14oz. and two 15oz. hammers, each available with a replaceable milled or smooth steel face, a mallet cap, and replacement grips in six color options. Stiletto TiBone hammers are designed to hit like steel, manufactured from titanium to minimize harmful recoil shock and vibration. The hammers weigh 45 percent less than a standard steel hammer and reduce pain and fatigue. All TiBone hammer models feature a 180° side nail puller to pull up to 16D carpentry nails and a straight claw design suited for pulling 8D to 16D carpentry nails. A redesigned magnetic nail set with a brass bushing magnet allows for one-handed nail setting. Visit www.stiletto.com. Knipex 2023 Holiday Gift Set Get four of the most popular Knipex Pliers for the price of three. This set includes one of each: Long Nose Pliers with Cutter, High Leverage Diagonal Cutter, TwinGrip Pliers, and Alligator Water Pump Pliers. The 8-in. Long Nose Pliers have hardened cutting edges (approx. 61 HRC) for soft, medium hard, and hard wire. The 10-in. Diagonal Cutters are 25 percent longer and 25 percent stronger than conventional diagonal cutters. The 8-in. TwinGrip Pliers are for easily gripping stripped screws and bolts with the front and side gripping areas. The 10-in. Alligator Water Pump Pliers have gripping capacity for diameters and widths across the flats from 5/32 to 7/8 in. (4 to 22 mm), offering 9 adjustment positions for 30 percent more gripping capacity. Visit www.knipex-tools.com. Mule 5-In-1 Mobile Workshop The Mule 5-in-1 Mobile Workshop is designed to reduce clutter and add convenience to any project. Crafted with high-quality materials, this functional mobile workshop is designed for convenience and durability, combining all the project essentials in one place and letting users transport tools efficiently. It includes unique features like an LED work light providing 1,100 lumens of light output. An adjustable 14-in., 3-speed, high-velocity fan with 2,500 CFM is designed to increase airflow and keep worksites free of fumes. Additionally, the utilitarian cart provides an integrated power strip with three 110V outlets, two USB 2.0 ports, and a 10-ft. power cord, allowing users to plug in tools and provide power wherever needed. The Mule 5-in-1 Mobile Workshop has a 200-lb. loading capacity, allowing users to haul toolboxes, 5-gallon buckets, project materials, coolers, and other supplies in one seamless trip. Its slim fold-away design and integrated tool organizer make it simple to store and access tools. Visit www.muleproducts.com. Preval Sprayer Kit The Preval Sprayer allows you to spray up to 16 ounces of almost any paint or liquid. It sprays water-based, latex-based and oil-based paints, acrylics, alkyds, clear coats, enamels, epoxies, gel coats, lacquers, leather dyes, polyurethanes and more. The Preval Val-Pak is a cost-effective kit that provides everything you need to apply multiple types of paints, chemicals, finishes and coatings in a multitude of prep, touchup and maintenance applications. Ideal for DIY projects or commercial use, every Preval Power Unit atomizes up to 16oz. of virtually any liquid, and extra bottles enable you to switch easily between different liquids for different projects, then store the remaining material in the reservoirs for later use. Visit www.store.preval.com. Excalibur Dehydrator Select Series 10 Tray The Excalibur Electric Food Dehydrator Select Series 10-Tray offers a temperature range of 85°-165° F and a timer for up to 30 hours, allowing you to efficiently dehydrate a wide variety of foods, including meat, fruit and herbs. With 16 sq. ft. of drying space and 10 chrome-plated trays, this dehydrator provides ample room to dehydrate large batches of food items simultaneously. Equipped with glass French doors, this jerky maker enables you to observe the drying process without disrupting it, ensuring you achieve the desired results. The LED front panel allows for intuitive control of temperature, time and other settings. Featuring Hyperwave and Paralexx technologies, this dehydrator ensures consistent air circulation and even heat distribution across all trays, resulting in efficient and high-quality dehydration. Visit https://excaliburdehydrator.com/ and Amazon. West Bend Air Fryers West Bend’s latest collection brings a fresh, cohesive look and feel to kitchens at great prices. A West Bend Air Fryer will make food crispy quickly, providing an easy way to cook from start to finish. They’re available in six sizes and capacities with black ergonomic designs and a stainless steel option. A touchscreen LED digital interface allows easy access while in use on the countertop. Easy-view clear windows within the air fryer drawers let you watch as your favorite recipe is cooked to perfection. The air fryers are user-friendly and compact to fit on most kitchen counters or in cabinets. Visit https://westbend.com/. Watex Green Living Give the gift of gardening with this stackable planter rack. It can grow more plants in a smaller space. Grow five different herbs, vegetables, or flowers. Crafted from high-quality wheat straw plastic, the planters are durable, easy to set up, and can add a splash of color to any space. The self-watering system means plants don't have to be watered as frequently. Visit www.watexgreenliving.com. The Indi Art Desk Meticulously designed for young artists, this desk offers a seamless blend of aesthetics and functionality. With adjustable storage compartments for art supplies and sturdy construction, the Indi Art Desk ensures that creativity remains uninterrupted. The Art Desk comes with a bench that is roomy enough for two. This piece is also perfect for budding musicians with room for an electric keyboard and compartments which adjust to hold sheet music books. Visit www.ducducnyc.com.

According to a 2023 study by the U.S. Geological Survey, nearly half (45%) of Americans’ tap water is estimated to have at least one or more per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS), also known as “forever chemicals.” While data shows that most Americans think water safety is a growing national issue (74%), only one-third (33%) of Americans have tested their tap water to ensure its safety.* Culligan International is educating homeowners about warning signs that their home’s water needs treatment. The company will be offering free home installation for water treatment systems to celebrate the 2023 holiday season. Water contamination can happen through a local municipality’s water source, an underground well, or a homeowner’s pipes. If you are unsure about your home’s water quality, it’s important to have your water tested by an expert who can determine the necessary steps to eliminate any harmful impurities that may be present. Here are four key signs that might mean your water has a problem: Changes in Taste, Smell or Appearance. A change in the taste, smell or clarity of your water could indicate that contaminants are present. A water test will be able to detect harmful chemicals and help determine what water treatment solution is needed to remove the contaminants. A "whole house" water filter can treat all the water throughout your home, making it cleaner, healthier, and free from unwanted tastes and smells. Mineral Buildup. If you notice mineral deposits, stains, or a white film on bathroom fixtures, dishes, and sinks, this may be due to hard water in your home. Hard water is high in mineral content like calcium and magnesium carbonates, bicarbonates and sulfates. These minerals can clog shower-heads and appliances, make soap and detergent less effective, and leave clothing looking dingy and wear more easily. Water softener systems remove these minerals, so your appliances, dishes, and clothing can remain in good health and even last longer. Dry Hair and Skin. You may have hard water in your home if you notice changes in your skin and hair. Showering or bathing in hard water can leave a film of soap on your skin. This can prevent the removal of dirt and bacteria that can cause skin irritation. Washing your hair in hard water can cause buildup that makes it tangle more easily, look dull and feel rough. Softening your water will help keep hair and skin healthy and silky smooth. Frequent Plumbing Repairs. Since your home’s pipes are constantly in contact with your water, water that contains harmful impurities can lead to damage in your home’s plumbing system. Frequent clogging and leaks are signs that you may have problem water that needs treatment. In addition to a plumber, you’ll want to call a water expert to test your water and determine the appropriate treatment solution. Culligan Holiday Promotion Culligan International, a world leader in the treatment of water, will be offering free home installation for water treatment systems to celebrate the holiday season! “I can’t think of a better gift this holiday season than the gift of cleaner, safer, better tasting water for your home,” says Judd Larned, President of Culligan Water. “With Culligan’s holiday promotion, it’s the perfect time to have one of our water experts conduct a quick, free, in-home water test and customize a Culligan solution that is right for you.” Now through December 22, Culligan is offering homeowners free standard installation on an Aquasential® Smart RO Drinking Water System, Smart HE Water Softener or Whole Home Filter. Homeowners who take advantage of this promotion will save up to $299 and have cleaner, safer and better-tasting water year-round. For more information about Culligan water treatment solutions or to find your local Culligan representative, visit www.culligan.com. *Data based on the Culligan Smart H20 2021 survey.