For newbie carpenters and DIY'ers, one of the more confusing aspects of working with lumber is the fact that a 2x4 board is strictly a nominal term and doesn't reflect the actual dimensions of the board. Let's face it ... why wouldn't this confuse somebody? Our friends at Prowood Lumber explain it like this: "The nominal measurements are a board's size before it has been planed smooth (surfaced) on all 4 sides. The actual measurements are the final size. If your project calls for precise measurements, be sure to check your lumber before purchasing." *Note that lumberyards which sell boards in actual "true" dimensions will have the material specifically marked as such to avoid confusion with the more common nominal dimensions. Image copyright Simpson Strong-Tie

To make the most of a poolside patio area, the Laney family of Birmingham, Alabama, decided to add a patio roof to a balcony overhang. The new extension provides shelter from the rain and shade from the sun, covering a concrete patio that now includes cushioned seating, an outdoor television, a ceiling fan and a grilling station. The roof was built to blend seamlessly with the home’s construction and make a perfect place for watching a game poolside while burgers are cooking. Ground Level The builders on this project are the father-and-son remodeling team of Randy and Caleb Stephenson, who began with a strong foundation using pressure-treated posts on galvanized post bases. These days, building codes require “ground contact-rated” treated lumber for all outdoor posts as well as any key structural components that tie into the house or are located near the ground. The roof was attached at one end to the balcony rim joist and supported on the other end by three 4x4 posts. Each post is lifted off the foundation by a galvanized post base secured in place with a concrete anchor. The separation protects the wood against rot by preventing standing water from wicking into the end grain of the lumber. Fastening the metal base into the sides of the post also increases uplift loads for wind resistance. Furthermore, this ABA post base from Simpson Strong-Tie is adjustable by including a slot around the anchor bolt that makes precise post placement easier. Note that if you’re building in an area without an existing concrete foundation, HIR recommends you provide concrete piers beneath the posts to avoid direct ground contact with the wood. Ledger Connection At the house end, the roof’s ceiling joists are supported from below by a 2x4 ledger as well as by fasteners driven into the house framing. During construction, the ledger board was screwed in place for assembly (then later anchored with lag screws). The ledger board is installed over the painted fascia board of the house’s balcony, but directly behind the fascia is solid house framing. Whenever attaching a structure to a house, first make sure solid 2x framing is located behind the trim or siding you’re fastening into. Trim boards are typically only 3/4-in. thick and don’t provide adequate support for the connection. For the ledger, joists and rafters, fasten with exterior-grade screws long enough to penetrate at least 1-1/2 in. into solid 2x framing. Check for Height, Level and Squareness Establishing a square and level layout is absolutely critical. Once you have the ledger attached and the posts temporarily braced in place, position the two band joists that frame the roof, extending from each end of the ledger to the support posts. These side joists should be attached over the posts completely square, level and at the same elevation as each other. Anyone building at home should be prepared for some unexpected real-world issues, such as the uneven patio foundation Randy and Caleb were building on. When leveling the side joists, the patio slope meant one post was too high and had to be trimmed to length. The second post was slightly too short, and Caleb added a wood block to the top to make up the difference. Header Construction At the opposite end from the house, the three posts support the roof’s header, which is usually made of two vertically installed 2x boards that run parallel to the ledger to carry the joists and rafters. Whether you’ll need a 2x6, 2x8 or larger will be determined by the span of the header as allowed by your local building codes. For shorter spans, you can attach the header boards on each side of 4x4 posts using carriage bolts and washers (fortified with epoxy to withstand weather exposure). For longer spans, you might consider using 6x6 posts notched on each side to accept the header boards, so the weight is transferred directly to the ground and not reliant solely on the shear strength of the bolts. You’ll notice this roof incorporates an unusual approach to header construction. On this project, the Laney family wanted to preserve as much view of their pool and expansive backyard while sitting beneath the roof as possible, but the roof header threatened to obstruct that view. So, how do you “shrink” a porch roof header without compromising its strength? Randy and Caleb came up with a three-fold solution: First, they built the roof with the shallowest pitch allowed by code. Second, they installed a 2x6 oriented flat rather than vertically, which shrunk the header height by several inches while still providing a nailing surface. A flat 2x has very little load-bearing capacity, though, so they incorporated 3/8-in. angle iron into the construction of the header to ensure it would not bow beneath the framing. Similar to a lintel that supports brickwork, this approach maintained the structural integrity of the header, but before attempting the same at your home, consult your local building inspector to see if it’s permitted in your area. Joists and Rafters Before installing joists and rafters check the boards and mark the crown, which refers to the direction of the arc in a bowed board. The crown (arc) should be oriented at the top when the boards are installed vertically to avoid sagging in the roof. With the band joists and header established, the interior 2x4 joists were installed level on 16-inch centers, driven from each side and from the top into the house framing with 3-1/2-in. screws and supported by the ledger board. In some municipalities, local codes might require metal connectors to install the joists. On the opposite end, the joists are screwed to the header, which supports them from beneath. The joist ends extend several inches past the header where they’ll tie into the rafter tails and ultimately be enclosed to provide a drip edge to the roof, so water will shed away from the structure and the patio. Aligned with each joist, the 2x4 rafters were then toe-screwed into the house framing to give the roof its pitch. To help manage the pitch, Randy used a loose 2x4 oriented perpendicular across the joists on which he propped the rafters to help approximate their angle. He then used a 6-foot level to carefully check rafter height before fastening them in place. Between each rafter and joist, Randy installed 2x blocking flush between the framing members to solidify construction and prevent any lateral movement. Once the framing is complete, consider any additional rough-in work you might need, such as extra blocking to support a ceiling fan, as well as any electrical or other utilities that should be incorporated. Roofing With the rafters complete, the Laney pool patio got its new roof. Caleb and Randy fastened plywood sheathing over the joists, Randy cap-nailed the underlayment in place, and the roof was covered in the same architectural shingles as they rest of the house to give it a perfect match. Be sure to install appropriate flashing where the patio roof meets the house, and if you’re not sure how to do that, call a pro. Finishing Up With the shingles buttoned up, a similar roof might be ready for a coat of exterior stain/sealer to preserve the look of the exposed wood. This project, however, got the full paint-and-trim treatment to blend with the home, including a finished ceiling, enclosed header soffit, and decorative column wraps for the support posts. Editor's Note: Randy Stephenson is a professional remodeling contractor in central Alabama, who can be reached by email at handyrandyco [a] yahoo.com.

Trimming out a room is a popular project for homeowners who want to accent lackluster ceilings, walls or windows. Along with traditional baseboards, chair rails, casings, and crown moldings, a homeowner can consider options such as fireplace mantels, ceiling medallions, exterior enhancements and more. Although a trim carpenter knows all the tricks of the trade, a DIY homeowner can accomplish a basic installation using the right tools, attention to detail, and a little advance research. Material Options For interior trim work, homeowners have many options in materials. MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is often the material of choice for DIY’ers because it’s less expensive than solid wood, it lays straight, resists warping, is easy to cut and simple to fasten. It’s usually available in long runs of trim with no visible joints. However, due to the nature of MDF, you won’t find some of the same crisp profiles as real wood, plus the edges are relatively delicate, so it might not be the best choice for high-traffic areas which are more susceptible to damage. Furthermore, water absorption (from contact with a wet bathroom floor, for example) can cause MDF to swell and ruin. Trim products made from finger-jointed wood present another tried-and-true alternative. This type of trim is widely used because it doesn’t have knots and imperfections like solid wood pieces can have. Most home centers sell both MDF and finger-jointed trim pieces in factory-primed standard lengths. An experienced carpenter can also fashion unique moldings made from solid woods, such as pine, poplar and maple. One advantage of solid wood is that it can be stained instead of painted to reveal the natural grain. Homeowners often upgrade the appearance of interior doors and windows with the elegant look of built-up trim. DIY’ers can combine layers of different moldings for a custom look or make use of pre-fabricated options like the new Craftsman Crosshead from Ornamental Decorative Millwork. The one-piece pre-built crosshead shown comes in five common widths and can be installed in less than 10 minutes (www.ornamental.com). Outdoor applications present another set of material options. To enhance a home’s curb appeal, window and door trim and corner wraps can really make your house stand apart, but the material must stand up to Mother Nature. An excellent choice for exterior trim, KDAT lumber indicates wood that is “kiln-dried after treatment,” which provides the benefits of composite material with real wood. After pressure treatment, KDAT products are placed in a large oven, or kiln, to remove moisture so the wood dries evenly. As a result, the KDAT lumber is more dimensionally stable, easier to handle, cut and install, and it weighs less than freshly treated lumber. Trim pieces can be made from dimensional boards such as 1x4, 2x2, 2x4, 5/4 thickness, as well as column wraps, which offer true square edges, are treated for ground contact, and some products are available pre-primed. KDAT products are usually backed by a lifetime warranty. (Note: KDAT products must be primed and painted or stained immediately after installation.) For outdoor curb appeal, these KDAT porch columns feature a hollow core which makes them lighter weight than solid posts, provides increased structural stability, and allows hidden electrical wiring. The columns are less likely to twist and easier to install than solid timbers, and strength ratings rival more expensive PVC and composite options. Alternative materials for outdoor applications include trim products made from composites, urethane, and other synthetic materials such as PVC. These products are available in wide range of decorative shapes and profiles, including intricate shapes and complex stylings that would be very expensive and labor-intensive to produce with wood. Furthermore, synthetic trim doesn’t have wood’s maintenance problems for outdoor use. Synthetics and composites resist insects, cracking, peeling, chipping, swelling, splitting and rotting, making them ideal for exteriors and any areas exposed to moisture, like baseboards in a bathroom, or crown above a shower. Synthetic moldings made from PVC or urethane perform well for outdoor applications because they resist insects, cracking, peeling, chipping, swelling, splitting and rotting. Size Matters Trim that is too small or too large can detract from a room’s overall décor. Trim sizes should be selected based on proportion to a room’s height. For example, crown molding that is too thin can make the room feel top-heavy, whereas molding that is too large can make the ceiling look like it’s encroaching down into the living space. Here are the optimal sizes for the crown molding drop (distance from the ceiling to the lower edge of the crown) on various wall heights: 8-ft. ceiling: 3- to 5-in. drop 9-ft. ceiling: 5- to 10-in. drop 10- to 12-ft. ceiling: 10-to 20-in. drop 16-ft. ceiling: 18- to 25-in. drop For baseboards, most heights run between 3-1/4 inches to 8 inches. Most designers choose the taller trims for rooms with taller walls. The most common retail sizes are 3-1/4 inches and 5-1/4 inches. Typically, baseboards are 5/8 inches thick and come in lengths up to 16-foot strips. If you plan for crown molding, its size should be factored into the selection of baseboard height so the overall décor looks proportional. Chair rail size should also be considered when selecting baseboards. For example, in a small room, a 3-in. baseboard height may keep the most appealing amount of space between the baseboard and chair rail. However, in rooms with higher ceilings, taller baseboard may help bring everything together. The easiest way to determine baseboard height is to purchase different sample sizes and bring them home. Place samples around the house to visualize how the baseboard will look in your room. (Note: Also consider the tools you have at your disposal, because some taller baseboards cannot be cut using standard miter saws.) Know Your Fasteners When installing trim, first use a stud finder to mark the wall framing (studs, floor and ceiling plates), then nail the trim pieces using fasteners long enough to extend 1 inch into solid wood. Most pros install trim with a nail gun, and if you have an air compressor and a lot of trim-work in your future, you’ll find an air nailer to be a worthy time-saving investment. These days, you’re likely to find a cordless brad nailer which operates using the lithium-ion battery you already own for other power tools. When installing trim with a nail gun, you have the choice of a finish nailer or a brad nailer. Although they look similar, brads are slightly thinner than finish nails. Nail gauge sizes indicate the thickness of the nail, and thinner nails have higher gauge numbers. Finish nails (left) are thicker than 18-guage brad nails (right). Brad nails work best in thinner cuts of lumber, shoe molding, and small trim around windows or doors. Brad nails are made of 18-gauge steel wire, and the thin diameter (and smaller head) makes them easy to mask with a filler in wood trim or paneling. The slender profile of brad nails helps to prevent the wood from splitting in delicate material. (If the nail gun doesn’t fire with adequate pressure, however, brads can bend on entry and damage the workpiece.) Brads work best in thinner cuts of lumber, small trim around windows, shoe molding, as well as fiberboard and plywood. Finish nails are generally made of 15- or 16-gauge steel wire, making them slightly thicker and more robust than brad nails. They create a stronger hold than brads, which makes finish nails more versatile and useful for heftier applications with thicker material, such as crown molding, chair rails, cabinets or baseboards. However, the larger diameter of finish nails leaves a larger hole to conceal, and finish nails are more likely to split thin or delicate pieces of wood trim. Pro installers use a combination of fasteners. For example, crown is typically nailed to the wall with 2-in. finishing nails, but the more delicate outside corners are usually fastened with 1-in. brad nails and glue. If you need to draw to pieces tightly together, you can skip the nails and use trim-head screws, such as the Fine Screws from U2 Fasteners. They offer exceptional holding power but have a tiny head that’s easy to conceal with filler. A high-quality adhesive is critical to use at every mating trim joint to ensure the best hold. A strong wood glue such as Titebond will work well when joining wood trim, but plastics or a synthetic material might require a polyurethane-based adhesive. Refer to the manufacturer’s indications to choose the right glue. Making the Cut The most versatile tool for cutting the linear strips of molding will be a powered miter saw with a quality blade. Read our article on how to set up a miter saw here. An alternative to cutting miter joints is to join two lengths of molding with a cope joint. Learn how to make a cope joint here. Painting and Finishing Most paint-grade trim products are sold pre-primed. If your selection is not pre-primed, you might consider both priming and painting all the trim pieces before you install them. This will reduce the time you spend working on your knees (for baseboards) or a ladder (for crown molding) and limit your post-installation painting to touch-up work. Trim is usually top-coated with a semi-gloss or high-gloss paint sheen, which highlights the decorative shapes and reveals of the trim while it also protects the surface from grease and grime, making it easier to clean than a flatter paint sheen. Use a paintable or color-matched caulk at all joints and the top and bottom of your crown and trim. A flexible or elastomeric caulk will best resist shrinking or cracking over time. To fill nail holes, use a shrink-free spackling instead. (Caulking nail holes will leave visible dimples.) Use the right stuff. For long-term performance in new trim, stick with a high-quality elastomeric caulk such as DuraMaster to seal the joints, but to conceal nail holes, fill them with shrink-free vinyl spackling. Get Creative Don’t feel limited by the standard uses of trim profiles. Instead of crowning a wall, use crown molding to create skirting for a mantel shelf. Or, create a chair rail by combining upside-down baseboard capped with ogee molding. Built-in bookshelves, bar areas, and fireplace mantels make great candidates for creative trim enhancements. You can combine multiple layers of molding for a larger, more complex profile. Shop around and think outside the box when selecting and designing your trim installations. Trim installation provides the opportunity to design creative molding combinations that can achieve a look and style all your own. SIDE NOTE 1 Trim Terms at a Glance Here are some common trim-carpentry terms you should know before you start. Baseboard molding hides gaps and imperfections at the floor-to-ceiling transition. Various sizes and profiles are available. Baseboards are generally fastened to the wall studs, footplate and wallboard with finish nails. Chair rail is a horizontal molding often placed above wainscoting or used to divide two wall colors. Usually set near the height of chairs, its original purpose was to protect the wall from the scuffing of chair backs, but today it’s commonly used as a decorative element. Crown molding covers the transition between the wall and ceiling. Available in many shapes and sizes, it can be installed as a simple trim profile or combined with other pieces of molding to produce elaborate architectural displays. Casing is the trim that surrounds windows or doors and is available in options ranging from simple craftsman style trim to multi-piece moldings and crossheads for a more elegant appearance. SIDE NOTE 2 Quick Tips for Trim LONG & SHORT— For long pieces of trim or molding, avoid nailing closer than 6 inches to the board ends until it’s time to fasten the joint. For short trim pieces, you can avoid nails and just glue the joint and/or use adhesive behind the board. CUT WITH CARE—When cutting the molding or trim to length, make the first cut at 1/2 inch into the waste side of the board, and then approach the cutline with small cuts until you reach your length mark. USE GLUE FOR FEWER HOLES—You can reduce the number of nail holes to fill by installing the trim using fewer fasteners and relying more on construction glue. MARK IN PLACE—When possible, mark your trim pieces in place on the wall rather than taking measurements and transferring those measurements to the work piece. This saves time and reduces errors that can happen when transferring the measurements. SHIMS ARE YOUR FRIENDS—On door and window casings, uneven drywall or plaster surrounding the door can prevent the casing from laying flat against the wall. To keep the trim boards aligned flush with each other, use shims inserted behind a recessed piece to push it forward until the joint is smooth, nail in place, then cut off the excess shim material and conceal it with caulk. SIDE NOTE 3 Cover Your Old Trim Looking for a fast way to upgrade baseboard or crown molding? The CoverTrim product from Ornamental Decorative Millwork offers a unique solution with a line of molding designed to install over existing moldings. Made of medium density fiberboard (MDF), CoverTrim comes primed and ready to paint. Available transition blocks and spacers make installation easy. Each piece of CoverTrim is 5-1/4” high, and adhesive-backed spacers act as a buffer between the face of the old molding and the new. Available nationwide through The Home Depot and Wayfair, CoverTrim products are Made in America. Visit www.ornamental.com or call 1-800-779-1135.

Make Your Patio Project a Family Affair This flexible-base patio was constructed by three generations of the Weber family. Dad and I originally built it in 2006. Constructed on a slope, roughly half the patio is elevated with a segmental retaining wall made of hollow-core concrete blocks. When the hollow cores are filled with 3/4" gravel, the upper and lower courses of block interlock to form a strong wall. We only needed two courses of block, plus the cap blocks, to achieve the patio height we wanted. The lower course of the wall is mostly buried below grade, and the walking surface at the opposite end of the patio is even with the lawn. The remainder of the patio was built using the traditional crushed-rock base, sand bed, and paver layer. The photos here show some recent maintenance work on the patio. Over the years, some of the sand washed out from beneath the pavers located near the retaining wall, causing some displacement of the pavers. Dad recruited some new help for the maintenance . My nephew Owen helped on this project. To repair the patio surface, we removed the pavers and topped off the wall blocks with extra gravel. We then added a new load of sand--this time opting for a much coarser grade of concrete sand that won't wash out. Take note of this if you attempt a similar project at home. Large projects like this one can require machinery to move the heavy landscaping materials. A tractor with a box blade came in handy to move and level the crushed rock and concrete sand. We spread and leveled the surface using a homemade screed board. We then compacted the sand, replaced the pavers, and compacted the surface. The patio is now back in good shape. -- M. Weber #patio #paverpatio #concretepaver #brickpaver #brickpatio #retainingwall

The classic look of brick pavers is as popular as ever for residential patios. Interlocking paver patios and sidewalks remain among the most requested projects for hardscape professionals, and with the right materials and building procedures, DIY’ers can even construct their own to enhance the property and increase the value of their home. HIR offers three approaches to construction of your next patio. Rigid Base Patios A paver patio can be built with two methods of constructing the sub-base. A patio with a rigid base has pavers installed over concrete. A patio with a flexible base is built with sub-layers of compacted gravel and sand. If you plan to upgrade an existing concrete patio, then half the work will already be done for you. The concrete will need to be flat and intact. Minor cracks and spalling can be repaired by squeegeeing a skim coat of a concrete resurfacing product over the patio, which can help level the surface for even paver installation. A resurfacing product such as Quikrete Re-Cap is designed for making thin layer repairs to worn or scaled concrete surfaces. The simplest approach to laying pavers on an existing concrete base is to begin with a soldier course as a border. Use thinner pavers that are 1-3/8 inches thick and made for this purpose. The “soldier course” is a line of bricks glued perpendicular to the edge of the concrete to frame your project and prevent the field bricks from moving around. Use four penny-size dots of masonry adhesive on the bottom of each brick to allow rainwater to pass beneath. Inside the soldier border, spread a layer of roofing felt over the concrete. Avoid overlapping the edges of the felt. Next, apply a second layer of felt over the first, oriented perpendicular to the first layer. The felt prevents the pavers from rocking when walked on. Complete the field by laying the pavers in the pattern of your choice over the felt. Once finished, fill the joints with concrete sand. Flexible Base Patios When building from the ground up, the job gets more complicated. In fact, things can get fairly daunting, depending on how large of a patio you want. This is because the project requires a lot of heavy materials and the means to transport those materials. You can plan on a lot of digging and shoveling, so if hard physical labor isn’t your thing, you’d better call a pro. It’s also important to understand that compaction of the patio materials is absolutely critical. For small patios, you can use a hand tamper, but for large areas you’ll need to rent a plate compactor. Always make sure to build the patio with a consistent slope to drain water away from the home (1/4 in. per foot to allow for drainage). As a general rule, conventional pavers require about 4 inches of compacted crushed stone as a base for pedestrian use. The depth should measure 4 inches after compaction, which means the base begins with a loose bed about 6 inches deep spread evenly across the patio site. In harsh climates where ice heaving is a problem, the compacted bed should be deeper, even up to 8 inches. (Vehicular use requires a base between 8 and 12 inches deep). It’s a good idea for the bed of crushed rock to extend 6 to 10 inches beyond the edges of the finished paver surface. Before you start digging the site, call 811 to make sure the underground utilities have been located and marked. Rent a plate compactor and use it on each material layer of your patio. A bed of crushed stone creates the flexible base. Spread the crushed rock evenly and compact it to a minimum of 4 inches. The boards shown will be buried in the gravel and sand to serve as a guide for a screed board. Dig deep enough to include the depth of crushed rock, an inch of compacted sand on top of that, plus the thickness of the paver itself. Excavate the site so the surface of the installed pavers will be located just slightly above the ground (typically between 8 and 12 inches deep). One trick is to place a paver at the anticipated patio elevation, then plant some stakes in the ground to lay out tight string lines even with paver surface around the site perimeter. Use the string as a depth gauge when digging. Just measure down from the string until you’ve reached your required depth. Next, tamp down the soil with the hand tamper or plate compactor. Get used to this step, because you’ll need to repeat it each time you add a layer of patio material. Without proper compaction, both the sub-base and pavers lack stability, causing shifting and compression. If this happens, some pavers will become higher or lower than others, resulting in an uneven surface. In areas that experience cold temperatures, the freeze/thaw cycle increases paver displacement. To avoid this, a compactor should go over each material layer three or four times to achieve proper compaction. After compacting the soil, spread the gravel and level it, then thoroughly compact the bed to the required depth. When very deep beds of gravel are required, compact the rock every 4 in. layer that you add. (Note: For clay- or silt-based soils, cover the compacted site in geotextile fabric before adding the crushed rock to ensure the most long-term durability of your patio base.) Next comes the layer of sand. Spread it evenly and compact the sand bed. Pro landscapers often use PVC pipe or very straight boards buried in the sand bed to serve as runners for a screed board when leveling the bed. The screed board is used to strike off excess sand above the runners and achieve a very smooth surface for the pavers to rest on. Add a layer of sand as a leveling bed and compact it. Use a very straight screed board to strike off excess sand and level the bed for the pavers. After smoothing the sand, begin laying the interlocking pavers along the edge of the patio. Your choice of brick pattern and patio shape will impact how many bricks will need to be cut. A basket-weave pattern is ideal because full pavers can be used throughout a square or rectangular shaped patio. Using a running bond or 90-degree herringbone pattern in rectangular areas will require half-cuts. Continuously level the pavers during installation to keep a flat walking surface without high spots. Use a rubber mallet to set the pavers firmly. Next, install edge restraints, which can be metal or plastic landscape edging, or even half-buried blocks or vertical pavers. Compact all the pavers into the sand bed using a piece of scrap plywood, carpet, or a plastic pad to protect them from chipping. Two to three passes are usually recommended to press the pavers into the sub-base. Carefully place and level the pavers, using a rubber mallet to set them into the base. On the project in the photos, the installers did not use a sand bed due to a supply shortage, and as a result, it took much longer for them to level the pavers. Depending on your paver pattern and design of the patio, it might be necessary to cut the pavers. Rental outlets offer masonry wet saws to cut concrete and clay pavers. Once the patio is complete, fill all joints with paver sand to lock them in place. In a week or two, check to see if more sand is needed after it has settled. Joint sand provides the interlock and cushioning between pavers to prevent paver-to-paver contact and chipping. Concrete sand with coarse and angular particles works better than masonry sand, which has rounder, finer particles. The joints need to be full of sand to function properly and interlock the system. Nibs on the edge of interlocking pavers leave consistent joints throughout the patio. Fill the paver joints with concrete sand to interlock the floor, The final paver surface of a flexible-base patio should get two or three passes with the compactor to solidify the patio. Composite Paver System Although traditional concrete and clay pavers still lead the patio pack, an alternative system uses synthetic pavers can simplify installation of both flexible and concrete-slab patios. Composite pavers are made from at blend of recycled automobile tires and plastic containers. The pavers are also one-third the weight of concrete, making them much easier to move by wheelbarrow. Composite pavers also come in different thicknesses. The Resurface pavers have a thinner profile to cover old patios, and the Standard Landscape pavers are intended for new patios and walkways with a flexible base. The use a grid system reduces installation time and makes it easier than manually setting and aligning heavy traditional pavers. The 16-by-16-in. grid also ensures straight lines and assists with a level layout. Plus, the composite pavers can be cut using a regular miter saw or jigsaw, so no wet saw is required. NOTE: Check online for availability. #patio #paverpatio #concretepaver #brickpaver #brickpatio #compositepavers #azekpavers #timbertechpavers

(guest post courtesy of Edwards Slate & Stone) Blustone Crazy paving. Photo courtesy of Edwards Slate & Stone "Crazy paving" is a random selection of sized pavers. A good landscaper will utilize a combination of different sizes to create a pattern that imitates the beauty of naturally-found stone. The nature of crazy paving will vary considerably in both color and shapes, depending on the type of stone, so its best to view the stone in the crates. The recommended cutting allowance for crazy paving is 15 - 25% depending on the width of grout joints and shaping of the stone (i.e. curved pathway). According to Edwards Slate and Stone, experts in bluestone tiles, there is a wide range of different stones that are suitable for crazy paving and they reveal which stones are best suited for different outdoor areas. One of the best types of natural stone to use for crazy paving, says Edwards Slate and Stone of Melbourne, Australia, are bluestone pavers. Melbourne is well-known for its use of bluestone throughout the city on footpaths, curbs, iconic buildings and more. But according to the paving professionals, bluestone is also popular in residential landscaping and renovation projects. This type of stone is a dark grey or grey-blue hue due to its makeup of a combination of sand and other natural elements. Bluestone is well-suited for crazy paving, especially around pool areas or other spaces with high foot traffic as it has an anti-slip quality and doesn't create sun glare. Bluestone is typically the most popular choice for outdoor crazy paving because it is not only beautiful but also incredibly practical. Slate is another great choice for crazy paving. Available in a variety of different colors and patterns, renovators can choose just one color to suit their space or pick out a few different hues to create a more interesting crazy paving look. This type of stone is known for its durability and longevity, meaning it will stand the test of time through foot traffic, heavy furniture and changing weather conditions. Depending on the colors and patterns chosen, slate can make a space feel retro, modern, sleek -- its adaptability to different styles makes it an attractive choice for many homeowners. Learn more at www.edwardstiles.com.au. Golden brown crazy. Photo courtesy of Edwards Slate & Stone #crazypaving #crazy_paving #patio #pavers #slate #bluestone #hardscape #landscape

From new power tools and car chargers to water systems and building supplies, HIR has got you covered. Ridgid 18V SubCompact Brushless Line The new generation of 18V SubCompact Brushless tools from Ridgid is equipped with the most advanced brushless motor technology. · The new R87012K 18V SubCompact Brushless 1/2-in. Drill/Driver is 15 percent more compact and 25 percent lighter weight compared to the 18V Brushless R86114 1/2-in. Drill/Driver. · The R872311K 18V SubCompact Brushless 4-Mode Impact Driver features three speeds and a self-tapping mode, and it’s 25 percent more compact and 30 percent lighter than its larger counterpart. · The SubCompact Brushless 1/2-in. Hammer Drill/Driver delivers 500 in-lbs. of torque and is 25 percent lighter than Ridgid’s R86115 model. The tools are compatible with all Ridgid 18V batteries, and the kits are eligible for the Industry’s Best Lifetime Service Agreement. Simply register within 90 days of purchase for free batteries, free parts, free service for life. Visit www.HomeDepot.com. FrogTape High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape Known for its industry-leading painter’s tapes, FrogTape brand introduces High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape to its portfolio of paint solutions. Engineered to consistently adhere to difficult surfaces such as self-cleaning paints and rough textures, including stucco, brick and concrete, FrogTape High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape is ideal for outdoor projects that require a strong, conformable tape that offers clean removal without shredding. Not only does it stick to difficult, uneven substrates, but it also adheres well to painted wood, aluminum, steel and vinyl. Plus, its crepe paper backing allows it to conform easily to bends and turns, making a quick task of masking around exterior doorways and windows. This unique, time-saving flexibility makes High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape an ideal toolbox staple for painting contractors. Visit FrogTape.com/HighBond. Bosch Power Tools 12V and 18V Cordless Orbit Sanders Bosch Power Tools introduced the new 12V and 18V cordless sanders, the GEX12V-5 Brushless 5-in. Random Orbit Sander and GEX18V-5 Brushless 5-in. Random Orbit Sander. Engineered to deliver one of the best user experiences on the market, the new sanders are designed for optimal balance and convenience, allowing users to tackle hard-to-reach work areas with power, control, and precision. In addition to the ergonomic palm-grip handle, each of the cordless sander models offer a compact body with close-to-the-workpiece design for control, an easy-to-reach on/off switch for intuitive operation, and a vibration-dampening element to help reduce user fatigue. The 5-in. 8-hole sanding pad is ideal for both flat and concave/convex surfaces, and the brushless motor delivers a high material removal rate for faster, more efficient sanding. The sanders also feature a speed selector, which enables maximum results for different materials and applications. Both models have the option of attaching a dust bag or vacuum hose for easy dust removal. Visit www.boschtools.com. Lectron EV Chargers at Home Depot Lectron charging accessories for Electric Vehicles (EVs) are now available at Home Depot. Each option is made to provide a fast-charging, high-quality option for electric vehicles made more accessible than ever for the average consumer. The 240-Volt 40 Amp Level 2 EV Charger (MSRP $330) surpasses your standard factory-issued charger, cutting total charge time by 7.5 times. It features an LED display which notifies you of any charging faults, and an extra-long 18 feet cable to better ensure reachability. The J1772 charging protocol of the 110-Volt 16 Amp Level 1 EV Charger (MSRP $200) allows it to charge almost all electric cars and plug-in hybrid vehicles. It provides the users with shock protection and safety while charging in wet conditions. It is perfect for users that own more than one electric vehicle or buildings with docks for EV charging. Learn about all the Lectron EV charging options at https://ev-lectron.com. Americover Pro Crawl Anti-Mold Vapor Barrier Americover’s new Pro Crawl Anti-Mold Vapor Barrier embedded with Mold Prevention Technology (MPT) is a high-performance vapor barrier that began with the Original Pro Crawl Barrier designed to reduce vapor transmission in the crawl space. Up to 70 percent of homes and buildings have mold, and it can be found almost anywhere. Over time, mold can cause serious health issues like asthma, acute bronchitis and allergic rhinitis, especially in children and those with health concerns. Americover’s Pro Crawl Anti-Mold Vapor Barrier passes ASTM G21 mold resistance standards to prevent the growth and spread of toxic mold and mildew. Mold Prevention Technology doesn’t expire, so the vapor barrier will continue protecting the crawl space years after installation. Americover’s 10 mil Pro Crawl Anti-Mold Vapor Barrier also passes ASTM 1745 Class A, B & C and is a Class I vapor retarder with a permeance rating of .022, which is reduces more vapor transmission than the leading competitor’s 10 mil vapor barrier. Visit www.Americover.com. Ryobi 18V One+ SwiftClean Spot Cleaner The new Ryobi SWIFTClean is ready for life’s everyday around-the-house spills and messes. This cordless spot cleaner delivers rapid stain removal with powerful suction for quick cleanups. The powered scrub brush agitates and lifts debris for effortless cleaning on upholstery, car seats, stairs, carpets and more. The included 6-oz. Ryobi OXY Cleaning Solution is a ready-to-use formula, which means there’s no diluting, no mixing, and no hassle involved. The cordless portability and lightweight design make it perfect for cleaning on the go. All clear components of the ONE+ SWIFTClean Spot Cleaner are top-rack dishwasher safe for easy tool maintenance and cleaning. Visit www.ryobitools.com. Dust Deputy 2.5 Deluxe Cyclone Separator Kit For the avid woodworker, the Dust Deputy’s new, larger cyclone design is optimized for today’s larger wet/dry vacs to deliver up to twice the airflow of smaller cyclones and lid-style separators. It stops over 99 percent of fine dusts and bulk debris from clogging your vacuum’s filter, which eliminates suction loss while saving you time and money on expensive replacements. The kit upgrades any make or model shop vacuum with 2.5-in. hose fittings. The neutral-vane technology improves separation efficiency by 20 percent, and the collapse-proof 5-gal. bucket won’t fold under high vacuum pressures. It has a compact and stable footprint with four free-rotating mounted casters and includes a highly flexible, wire-reinforced, vacuum hose with swivel-cuffs. Visit www.oneida-air.com. Harbor Freight Brushless, Cordless Hercules Tools Harbor Freight Tools is expanding its popular professional-quality Hercules line with the introduction of two new brushless, cordless power tools; the 20V 1/2” Brushless High Torque Cordless Impact Wrench and 20V 1/2” Brushless Ultra Torque Cordless Impact Wrench. Both are backed by a five-year limited warranty and can be powered by any of the Hercules 20V batteries, including the all-new 8 and 12 Ah Extreme Performance Battery packs, which are backed by a three-year limited warranty. Both impact wrenches have a powerful three-speed motor with Auto Mode to provide more control, torque, runtime and durability than traditional brushed motors. The Bolt Removal Mode provides more control after bolt breakaway. The third speed delivers maximum speed and torque when working on tough jobs, particularly in hard-to-reach areas. The High Torque Cordless Impact Wrench delivers up to 1200 ft. lbs. of bolt breakaway torque and a maximum fastening torque of 700 lbs. at 30 seconds. The Ultra Torque Impact Wrench has 1400 ft. lbs. of breakaway torque and 900 ft. lbs. of maximum fastening torque at 30 seconds. Visit www.harborfreight.com. Ladder-Lock Stabilizing Assembly for Extension Ladders The Ladder-Lock is a ladder-conversion kit designed to increase the safety of its users by improving an extension ladder’s overall stability. Compatible with most 16- to 24-foot extension ladders with hollow rungs, its patented technology decreases the user’s chances of serious injury and even death. It features two adjustable legs that connect at the ladder midpoint and two adjustable arms that anchor to the ladder’s lowest rung, creating four points of contact that eliminates kicking out, sliding and tipping, and supports more weight than a ladder alone. Aluminum rods are inserted through the hollow rungs of both sets of legs and braces, generating an ultra-sturdy base capable of bearing loads over 450 lbs. The Ladder-Lock is currently available by special order at www.ladder-lock.net and retails for $399. Milwaukee M12 Laser The new Milwaukee M12 Green Cross Line & 4-Points Laser is engineered to offer users the brightest green beams, all-day runtime, and easier setup. When paired with an M12 RedLithium CP 3.0 Battery, users get at least nine hours of continuous runtime for ultimate productivity. The high-intensity green laser offers superior visibility for long-range applications up to 125 feet. The vertical and horizontal lines allow for easier alignment and leveling applications, while the plumb points help with floor-to-ceiling point transfer. The horizontal dots squaring points give users the option for quick and accurate squaring alignment. The M12 Laser is fitted with amplified rare earth magnets, providing a secure hold and ensuring it won’t slide on steel studs. It is impact-rated for drops up to one meter and the IP54 rating helps protect it from harsh jobsite conditions. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Aquasential Smart Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System Water contamination can happen at any time and/or through a local municipality, an underground well, or a homeowner’s own pipes. Water treatment solutions, such as reverse osmosis systems and specialty filters, reduce specific impurities that may be found in your water. Look for options that offer multiple stages of filtration, like the Culligan Aquasential Smart Reverse Osmosis (RO) Drinking Water System, which is marketed as the World’s Most Efficient RO Drinking Water System. With up to seven stages of filtration and 12 different filter options, it is certified to reduce 59 contaminants including lead, arsenic, pharmaceuticals, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and PFOA/PFOS plus 15 emerging contaminants that may be in your water. The Aquasential Smart RO is also being offered for $9.95 per month for the first three months through October 15, 2022. Visit www.culligan.com. ThermaSol HydroVive 14 ThermaSol has introduced a new product to its family of steam and smart showering categories: a slightly smaller version of its HydroVive rainhead called "HydroVive 14.” HydroVive and the new HydroVive 14 both are designed to bring the multi-sensory powers of light, sound, and water under the user’s complete control. Like the 18-in. version, HydroVive 14 has a clean, integrated look, and when paired with ThermaSol’s Smart Shower Valve and ThermaTouch interface, anyone using the system can personalize every element of their shower. The HydroVive 14 delivers a gentle falling water sensation with 120 easy-clean neoprene jets, and the premium hi-fi sound settings include volume, treble, mid-range, and bass. Visit www.thermasol.com. Inspire Railing from Fortress Building Products To provide DIY homeowners and residential contractors with an aluminum railing that is easy to order and install, Fortress Building Products’ Inspire Railing is offered in a ready-to-assemble kit for a straightforward, no-fuss installation. Inspire Railing features twist-and-lock balusters and pre-assembled stair panels. Pre-punched posts further support a quick install while guaranteeing consistency and quality along the perimeter of a deck. A durable, low-maintenance building material, aluminum won’t rot, warp, deteriorate or rust, which means Inspire Railing can resist the damaging effects of weathering. Offered in Black Sand and Brown, DIY homeowners and residential contractors can safely enclose a deck in a high-quality railing solution that melds style and function. The Fortress Lock powder-coated finish provides enhanced corrosion resistance and UV protection. Inspire Railing is backed by a limited lifetime manufacturer warranty for ultimate peace of mind. Visit www.fortressbp.com. Metabo HPT 18V MultiVolt Cordless Heat Gun The Metabo HPT MultiVolt Heat Gun (RH18DAQ4) is packed with features, including an LCD backlit display that showcases selected temperature, fan setting and remaining battery charge. Temperature ranges from 86°F up to 1022°F and adjusts in 18°F increments for more control per the application. The gun is designed to be used hands-free by resting on its back with the heat port up, if needed. Three nozzles are included (round, curved, flat). The tool accepts both 18V and 18V/36V MultiVolt batteries from Metabo HPT (batteries and charger sold separately). Visit www.metabohpt.com. WORX Nitro 20V 4-1/2-in. Power Share Brushless Circular Saw The new WORX Nitro 20V 4-1/2-in. Circular Saw with high-efficiency brushless motor speeds up cross-cutting 2x4’s and ripping plywood. At 4.6 lbs. (with battery), this compact saw is designed for greater mobility without the bulk of a full-size 7-1/4 circular saw, plus it’s not dependent on an electrical outlet for power. In concert with the saw’s brushless motor, WORX engineered the saw’s circuity so its power under load increases up to 55 percent, based on material hardness it encounters. Power automatically increases when cutting hardwoods such as oak and maple, and readjusts when cutting softwoods like pine or wafer board. The saw’s circuitry technology is designed to conserve runtime while increasing battery life. It makes bevel cuts from 0 to 46º and maximum depth-of-cuts of 1-1/2 in. at 90º and 1-1/8 in. at 45º. The saw’s brushless motor drives the 4-1/2 in., 24-tooth carbide-tipped blade at 6900 (no load) rpm. With the proper blade, the saw will cut metal, tile, plasterboard, and plastics in addition to wood. Visit www.worx.com.

Toilets usually leak from one of two locations—either the wax gasket at the floor or at the connection between the tank and bowl. If you find that the bowl is getting wet from a tank leak, then the most likely problem is a broken seal at the tank-to-bowl gasket or around the washers of the bolts. Here’s how to fix the problem with some simple hand tools. STEP 1: Purchase a tank-to-bowl toilet repair kit. They’re usually available at hardware stores and most include a new gasket plus replacement bolts. STEP 2: Shut off the water supply to your toilet by turning the valve handle on the wall clockwise. Then flush the toilet and hold the lever to drain the water from your tank. Remove any excess water with a cup and rag. Place a bucket beneath the tank to catch any excess water. STEP 3: Disconnect your water supply line from the threaded connection at the bottom of the tank. STEP 4: Remove the pair of old nuts, bolts, and washers from the toilet tank. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the bottom of the tank so it doesn’t spin, as you unscrew the bolts inside the tank using a screwdriver. STEP 5: Carefully lift up on the tank from the bowl and remove the old tank-to-bowl sponge gasket. Take the opportunity to clean off any grime or mildew left by the leak from the surface of the bowl and tank. STEP 6: Place the new red sponge gasket over the mounting nut threads. STEP 7: Carefully center the tank and set it onto the bowl so the gasket seats snugly into the bowl’s water inlet. STEP 8: Use the new bolts, rubber washers, washers, and hex nuts, to reattach the tank to the bowl. Apply downward pressure to keep the tank level as you tighten the bolts, alternating from left side to right side, until the tank is stable. Be careful you do not over-tighten the nuts, which may cause the porcelain to crack. STEP 9: Reattach the water supply line. STEP 10: Turn the water supply to complete the repair. Behold the beauty of this non-leaking toilet tank.

(guest post by Valerie Smith) Whether you’re growing a vegetable garden, flower bed or even trees and shrubs, these fall garden maintenance tips will ensure your entire landscape is ready for temperatures to drop. 1. Clean Up Vegetable/Herb Gardens If you’re not sure where to begin on your fall garden maintenance checklist, the best place to start is by removing all dried plants and weeds in your garden bed. Keeping such plants in your garden over the winter could lead to pests and disease, thus preventing a healthy garden next year. For this reason, be on the lookout for any spent crops, as well as plants that are infested with disease. Tilling your garden is an excellent way to expose any dried plants or weeds. It will also reveal any pests hiding in your garden, including fall army-worms, which are most active during the fall. As you remove plant debris from your garden, now is also an excellent time for removing gardening supplies. Items such as stakes, cages and labels should be gathered and put away to be used again next spring. 2. Prepare Your Perennial Garden for Winter Although the gardening season may be coming to a close, your perennial plants will continue growing until they go dormant in late fall. To prepare them for the colder temperatures, be sure to remove all weeds and any parts of the plant infested with disease or pests. If you’re planning on adding more plants to your garden, consider planting spring-blooming bulbs this fall while the soil is still warm. Don’t forget to continue watering your perennials at least once a week until the ground freezes. Once the ground does freeze, cover the crown of your newly planted perennials with a 4- to 5-inch layer of bark mulch. This mulch may also be used to cover perennials that are sensitive to frost. 3. Care for Trees and Shrubs For those who have trees and shrubs, autumn is the perfect season to check on your shrubbery and prepare them for winter. One way to care for your trees this fall is to cover the soil around them with mulch. Adding a fresh layer of mulch around the base of your tree will protect the roots from harsh winter conditions. Avoid covering the trunk with mulch, however, as this could cause rot and other diseases. In addition to mulching, fall is also an ideal time to prune your shrubs once dormancy has started. If you’re looking to establish more trees and shrubs on your lawn, fall is the best time to plant while the ground is still workable. Generally, the ideal time to plant new trees is six weeks before the first sign of hard frost. Planting any time between September through November will allow your new trees to establish their roots before winter sets in. 4. Plant a Cover Crop A cover crop may be spread over your garden to prevent erosion and weed growth. It may consist of mustard, clover, peas or even a combination of cover crops. Once spring arrives, the cover crop may be turned over to add nutrients to the soil. 5. Plant Fall Crops While the summer growing season may be over, there are still many plants you can grow over the winter. The most common frost-tolerant crops for fall planting include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, parsnips, garlic, cabbage, collards and spinach. Many of these crops not only grow well during the fall, but they taste better after a light frost. Be sure to cover your plants as soon as any frost is forecast to ensure your garden survives the winter. 6. Apply Fall Pre-Emergents Pre-emergent weed killers are used for controlling weeds before they appear above the ground. To promote a weed-free garden next year, consider applying fall pre-emergents to your garden once all plant debris is removed. 7. Apply Fall Fertilizer Similar to fall lawn care, many gardens and trees can benefit from fertilizer before winter sets in. Fall fertilizer is best applied in late autumn before the first frost, as it will help plants endure the approaching cold temperatures. Sod Solutions' Lawnifi® Fall Fertilizer Box, in particular, has three separate bottles of liquid fertilizer in it that help your garden recover from the hot summer temperatures it just endured as well as prepare for the colder temperatures ahead. This product is a great fall fertilizer for lawns and gardens. If you prefer traditional, granular fertilizers, Lawnifi Foundation is a slow-release granular fertilizer option that comes in a 25-pound bag and lasts for three months. With a 29-0-5 NPK formulation, Lawnifi Foundation is the perfect granular fertilizer for lawns and gardens. The two percent iron included in Lawnifi Foundation’s mixture helps plants carry oxygen throughout the leaves, roots and other parts of the plants to promote a green, healthy yard. Following these simple fall garden maintenance tips will help your plants survive the cold temperatures of winter. Whether you plan on growing a cool-season crop, or you simply want to protect your garden, this fall checklist will ensure a healthy, thriving garden next spring. Editor's Note: This article was written by Valerie Smith on behalf of Sod Solutions. Check out more Sod University tips here or subscribe to the weekly newsletter.

(guest post by Cecelia Brown) Are you thinking about a new lawn? One of the most common asked are, “How many square feet are on a pallet of sod?”. The amount of square feet on a pallet of sod informs you of how many pallets you’ll need to purchase to cover the area you’re laying sod in. The answer to this question largely depends on the sod farm from whom you purchase and the variables unique to that farm such as the type of harvester, moisture content, grass type, piece or roll size and soil type. Most of the time, grass is quoted to homeowners by the pallet, so understanding pallet sizing is important for ordering purposes. Because not all pallet sizes are the same, you may not be getting as good of a deal as it seems! Most variations in pallet size comes down to weight for shipping and desired stacked pallet height. The majority of pallets range from 400–700 sq. ft., and the weight of a pallet can increase up to 50 percent more when wet. A pallet weighs between 1,500–3,000 lbs., so be mindful of this if you decide to pick up your sod in place of having it professionally delivered and the type of vehicle required to accommodate this weight. If you aren’t sure how many square feet you will need to cover, find out by using this Area Calculator. What is sod? Some of you may wonder “what is sod?” or “what is turf?” to start with. This is a great question! Sod is different from grass installed as seed, sprigs or grass plugs. Sod typically comes in the form of pallets that you install into your lawn piece by piece. Read What is Sod? for more details. How much does a pallet of sod cover? Below are a few listed details on how many square feet are in a pallet of sod. · Slabs (Most common in southern parts of the U.S.): Comes in 399, 452 or 503 sq. ft. · Mini Hand Rolls (Gaining popularity in northern parts of the U.S.): Comes in 400, 450 and 500 sq. ft. · Large Rolls (Most common in northern parts U.S.): Comes in 500, 600 and 700 sq. ft. How much does a pallet of sod weigh? A pallet typically weighs between 1,500–3,000 lbs. How much does a pallet of sod cost? One of the first go-to questions when installing a new lawn is “How much is a pallet of sod?”. The cost varies depending on the variety of grass you select, where you buy it from and where you are located for delivery. Slabs of palletized sod Most pallet sizes are commonly sold in ranges between 400, 450 or 500 sq. ft. in size. In the southern United States, these grass types include bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine and centipede. Most sod in the South is palletized in rectangle slabs that measure 16 x 24 inches and cover 2.66 sq. ft. each. When purchasing sod, it’s important to know the price per square foot (not per pallet) and to understand that there is some variability in how many square feet come on a pallet. The below table illustrates the difference that slabs, mini rolls and large rolls have in the number of square feet per pallet. Although single slabs (2.66 sq. ft.) result in finished pallets with irregular numbers (399, 452 and 503 sq. ft.) they are still sold as 400, 450 and 500 sq. ft. pallets. Most sod farms add one extra slab to 399 sq. ft. pallets, so in all cases, the end-consumer is getting a slight deal. It’s important to know 1) the price per square foot and 2) how many square feet are included in a pallet. Mini Hand Rolls Mini hand rolls have also been gaining popularity in recent years. You will find them mostly in northern cool season markets. Mini hand rolls are usually 40 x 18 inches and cover five sq. ft. each. There are 80 of these on a 400 sq. ft. pallet, 90 of these on a 450 sq. ft. pallet and 100 on a 500 sq. ft. pallet. Occasionally, you will also find 60 x 24 or 80 x 18 inch rolls in bermuda grass that are 10 sq. ft. each. Large Rolls In the northern cool season markets, most sod is sold in large rolls. These are usually 60 x 24 inches or 80 x 18 inches. Both of these work out to be 10 sq. ft. per roll. Standard pallet size in these markets is usually 500, 600 or 700 sq. ft, and will have 50, 60 or 70 rolls per pallet. Common grass types in these markets are tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Knowing pallet sizes is helpful when planning your project. Be sure to gain an understanding of sizing before ordering from a farm or distributor. If you’re looking to purchase sod, be sure to check out the high-quality varieties available by the pallet here. If you aren’t sure how many square feet you’ll need, you can use this integrated Area Calculator tool to find out how large your yard is. We recommend ordering 5–10 percent more sod than you measure due to waste from cuts and miscalculations. To find out the next steps after making a purchase, check out the sod installation guide here. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to the weekly newsletter. Editor's Note: Cecelia Brown reports on behalf of Sod Solutions, which has helped successfully develop and release to the market over 20 different turfgrass varieties over the past 28 years including PalmettoⓇ and CitraBlueⓇ St. Augustine, EMPIREⓇ and InnovationⓇ Zoysia and CelebrationⓇ, Latitude 36Ⓡ and NorthBridgeⓇ Bermudagrass. The company is based in the Charleston, SC area.

(guest post by Valerie Smith for Sod Solutions) Fall is right around the corner and with it comes cooler weather and family gatherings for the holidays. One of the best things you can do to ensure a beautiful, thriving lawn in the springtime is care for it during the fall. The experts at Sod University have compiled a list of some of the most important tips to help your warm or cool season lawn transition into the cooler months ahead. Be sure to also take a look at these fall lawn maintenance blogs written for homeowners who have zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass, centipede grass, bluegrass or fescue. 1. Reduce Mowing for Deeper Roots It’s actually recommended that you mow your lawn a lot less during the fall months. This is good for warm season lawns like zoysia, bermuda grass, St. Augustine and centipede grass. Keeping your warm season lawn slightly higher will encourage deeper root growth during the fall so that the grass will survive through winter dormancy. For cool season lawns like bluegrass and fescue, a mowing height between 2.5–3.5 inches during the fall is ideal. This mowing height will also help prevent snow mold in snow prone regions. However, if it gets too long, it’ll create a mat layer, which is ideal for disease breakouts. To learn more about mowing heights for each grass type, visit the Lawn Mowing Guide. 2. Water Less as Temperatures Drop It’s important to water your lawn less as temperatures drop as too much water can lead to disease. Temperatures change around this time of year so as temperatures drop, soil conditions also change. Fall is one of the most optimum times of the year for disease to start appearing—especially when over-watering and shade from fall leaves combine. Disease can be caused by a number of things, but it’s usually caused by over-watering, changing temperatures and shade. Regardless of disease outbreaks, you’ll still want to water your lawn to prevent drought stress while the grass is actively growing. Even though your warm season lawn will begin to enter stages of dormancy, light watering will prevent dehydration. Warm season grass typically requires one inch of water per week including rainfall. In comparison, cool season lawns require about 1–1.25 inches of water per week including rainfall. Watering both types of grasses in the early morning will decrease the risk of certain turfgrass disease. If you would like to learn more about irrigation for each grass type, visit the Lawn Irrigation Guide. 3. Fertilize Your Lawn with the Right Nutrients Fertilization differs this time of the year compared to the other active growing seasons (spring and summer). As previously stated, outdoor temperatures are starting to change—so are soil conditions. Your grass is a living thing that needs specific nutrients at this time. Warm season grass will likely enter a state of dormancy and cool season grass will still endure cold temperatures. Sod University recommends two different fertilizer options for the fall, however, you will only need to use one of the two options for fall fertilization. The Fall Fertilizer Box, in particular, has three separate bottles of liquid fertilizer in it that help your lawn recover from the hot summer temperatures it just endured as well as prepare for the colder temperatures ahead. You can read more about The Fall Fertilizer Box and it’s mixture of nutrients in a separate Sod University blog here. Lawnifi Foundation is a slow-release granular fertilizer option that comes in a 25-pound bag and lasts for three months. With a 29-0-5 NPK formulation, Lawnifi Foundation is an ideal granular fertilizer for lawns and gardens. The two percent iron included in Lawnifi Foundation’s mixture helps plants carry oxygen throughout the leaves, roots and other parts of the plants to promote a green, healthy lawn. Featuring slow-release nitrogen, Foundation gradually feeds your lawn over an extended period of time without overwhelming your lawn with nitrogen during the fall. 4. Control Weeds with a Pre- or Post-Emergent Herbicide Your warm or cool season lawn has just made it through the summer months when herbicide applications damage grass due to hot temperatures. Now that it’s starting to cool down, you are free to apply both post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides without risking any damage to your lawn if applied properly. You may even notice that the weeds from summertime are starting to die off. Unfortunately, there are winter weeds that will start to pop up when the months are colder too. We recommend applying a pre-emergent during the fall to prevent winter weeds. Some hard to control weeds that may appear around this time include Poa annua, sedge, crabgrass, goosegrass, chickweed or henbit. There’s a difference between pre- and post-emergent herbicide control for weeds. A post-emergent herbicide controls any current weeds you are experiencing whereas a pre-emergent herbicide, as its name suggests, serves to prevent weeds from appearing. Fall is actually the best time to apply a pre-emergent—especially if winter weeds have been a big problem in the past years. You can also do this in the springtime around March or April. Check out some pre-emergent products listed in this article online and be sure to read labels thoroughly before application. Read more about pre-emergent applications in the fall in How to Use a Pre-Emergent Herbicide in the Fall and learn about the various types of weeds in Identifying Common Lawn Weeds. 5. Keep an Eye Out for Insect Invasions Although there could be a variety of insects that may be invading your lawn at this time, the main ones to look out for include grub worms for both warm season and cool season lawns, as well as chinch bugs. Chinch bugs are usually the most active in the months of June–early September, but may still be present in some lawns such as St. Augustine. Other insects that may appear in the fall are sod webworms, fall armyworms and mole crickets. If you have insect activity, treat with a broad-spectrum insecticide labeled to treat the insect you are seeing. We’ve listed a few in this article online. Be sure to read product labels thoroughly before application. If you use a granular variety of insecticide, water the lawn immediately after application to help with absorption. Visit the Insect Identification blog for more details. 6. Prevent Disease Outbreaks as Temperatures Change We recommend applying a systemic fungicide at preventative rates around the beginning of the fall season or right beforehand. This helps the grass enter colder months in a healthier condition by keeping disease outbreaks at bay. If you’ve had a problem with disease around this time before, you may need to make multiple applications of the systemic fungicide in affected areas. If spring dead spot was a problem during the spring, apply a fungicide at high rates to the problem area(s). Spring dead spot is caused by a disease that damages grass during the winter—you just can’t see the damage because the grass is brown and dormant until the spring when everything greens up again. Applying a fungicide at a preventive rate will keep it from coming back. Consider mapping those areas because fungicide treatment can be expensive. If you use a granular variety, water the lawn immediately after application to help soil absorption. Above all, read product label instructions thoroughly before application for detailed instructions. If you have a warm season lawn, be sure to check out the Sod University blog, Beware of Late Fall Fungus for Warm Season Lawns. For generalized disease control information, read Lawn Disease Control. Tip: Remove any dead leaves. As dead leaves accumulate on the ground during the fall, they create shady, darker spots on the lawn. Light cannot reach these areas and moisture becomes trapped. This quickly damages the grass underneath these spots. When warm season grass goes dormant, it can be difficult to notice any discoloration after the leaves are removed. Come springtime, you will notice the damaged areas while the rest of the grass turns green again. Depending on how many trees are nearby, consider raking once a week. Learn more here. Fall lawn maintenance differs from that of spring and summer maintenance. With the changing of the seasons also comes the changing of temperatures, weather and soil conditions. It’s important you make these changes in maintenance so that your grass is prepared for the cooler months ahead. For more specific information for each grass type, view fall lawn maintenance tips for zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass, centipede grass, bluegrass or fescue. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here. Editor's Note: Sod Solutions has helped successfully develop and release to the market over 20 different turfgrass varieties over the past 27 years including PalmettoⓇ and CitraBlueⓇ St. Augustine, EMPIREⓇ and InnovationTM Zoysia and CelebrationⓇ, Latitude 36Ⓡ and NorthBridgeⓇ Bermudagrass. The company is based in the Charleston, SC area.