(guest post by Valerie Smith) Many of us lawn lovers want to keep our lawns in the best possible shape as the summer heat bears down on it. With that being said, it’s often tempting to water the grass more than it needs as a means of keeping it cool. Improper summer lawn watering practices can lead to two different, significant outcomes—drought from too little water and disease from overwatering. Read some of the most frequently asked questions we receive about proper irrigation practices that take place during the summer. How much water does my lawn need during the summer? Summer watering requirements for most warm and cool season grasses including zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass, centipede grass, bluegrass and fescue require about 1-inch of water per week including rainfall. Some of you may be asking, “How do I measure 1-inch of water from my irrigation system or sprinkler?” A simple irrigation audit can help with a lot of this confusion. In summary, an irrigation audit consists of setting a few inexpensive cups around different zones in your lawn. These cups can vary from empty cans of tuna to sprinkler gauges. Run your irrigation system or sprinkler until the cups hold about an inch of water. Different cups may have varying amounts of water, so it’s important to make adjustments so that your lawn receives a consistent amount of water throughout. When should I water my lawn during the summer? During the summer, temperatures rise, and soil conditions change. The best time to water your lawn in the summer is in the early mornings for longer periods of time and less frequently. This will decrease the dew period where a thin layer of dew sits on the blades of grass. Despite the warmer temperatures, it’s important to decrease this period because it reduces the amount of time for water to sit on the grass blades—which is a useful disease management practice. Watering in the early mornings provides your lawn with water before it starts to get hot during the daytime. How often should I water my lawn during the summer? For most warm and cool season grasses, one or two waterings per week should meet the weekly 1-inch of water requirement. The amount of water each irrigation system or sprinkler delivers can play a huge factor in how often you should water the lawn. Therefore, it’s important to set up an irrigation audit. This audit will inform you of how much water your lawn is receiving in a single watering. Make adjustments to the frequency of each irrigation period as needed. For how long should I water my lawn during the summer? Typically, most lawn irrigation periods during the summer should last between 25–30 minutes each. This amount of time depends on a lot of different factors though. As previously stated, each irrigation system or sprinkler can deliver different amounts of water and it’s important to hit that 1-inch per week requirement. This can also depend on where the irrigation system is delivering the most amount of water and your lawn’s water holding capacity. For example, if you have really sandy soils, the water holding capacity for your lawn is probably pretty low because sand is very granular and it’s easy for the water to pass right through. In this case, you may need to water your lawn for longer periods or add more organic matter. If you have clay or loamy soils on the other hand, the water holding capacity is a little bit higher, so you should water your lawn in shorter periods to prevent waterlogged soils. How do I know if my lawn needs more water? Even with an irrigation audit, it can be hard to determine if your lawn is receiving enough water based on the different factors in the above section. If your lawn is receiving too little water, you may start to see signs of drought, which includes the thinning of grass blades that start to turn yellow or brown in color, and it may grow slower. It’s important to keep an eye out for this because this is the step right before it starts to die. Some lawns, like EMPIRE® Zoysia, may go into dormancy to preserve themselves before dying, but others may just die and can’t be revived. It can sometimes get difficult to tell the difference between disease or drought because both include a yellow-brown discoloration of grass blades. If your lawn is being overwatered, the heat and over-saturation creates optimal environments for disease outbreaks. Yellow, discolored grass blades may also be a sign of chinch bugs, which love to feed on St. Augustine lawns. Depending on the type of disease, oftentimes the key to distinguishing drought from disease outbreak is looking towards the edges of the discolored spots. Typical signs of disease vary depending on the type of fungus, but most signs include an interior clear dead zone where the fungus has killed the grass and a lighter yellow or brown ring around the outskirts where the fungus is spreading. Disease also usually appears in irregular, circle-shaped spots of varying size. This is a big indicator of disease damage. Finally, check your soil. If the soil is damp, you’re probably overwatering the lawn. If it’s dry, damage is likely due to drought stress. How do I keep my lawn cool in the summer? As temperatures peak at this time, it’s often tempting to overwater lawns to keep them hydrated. This is not always recommended because it can cause disease outbreaks—especially if parts of the lawn are located in shady areas. If the lawn seems to become too warm or starts accumulating scorched, brown spots as a result of the heat, consider adding a layer of top dressing to keep it shaded or cool. Be careful though—compost is black in color, so a lot of it can contribute to heating if a thick layer is left on top of the grass canopy for a long period of time. Excess use of top dressing can also smother the grass. How do I keep new sod cool in the summer? Watering new sod during the summer is different from watering an established lawn. For the first nine days (including the day of installation), you should water your lawn twice a day—once in the early morning and then again in the evenings. Once you’ve reached 10 days after installation, taper back your watering schedule to once per day. On day 13, you can reduce watering to once every other day and on day 16, begin transitioning to watering your lawn so that it receives 1-inch of water per week. Keep an eye out for any disease outbreaks, especially if you have new sod in any shady areas. In newly laid sod, fungus tends to begin in individual pieces of sod and spread in an irregular circular pattern. If you see the dead/dying brown grass, your gut reaction might be to water the grass even more because you think it’s drying out. If this is in fact a fungus, watering your grass even more will actually make the situation worse. Fertilizing your newly installed lawn with the proper nutrients it needs is also important while you maintain an appropriate irrigation schedule. The Lawnifi® New Lawn Starter Box is a box of three liquid fertilizer bottles that can be attached to the end of your garden hose during these watering periods. Each bottle of liquid fertilizer is designed to give your new lawn the nutrients it needs to establish roots. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here.

Natural wood is the most widely used material for building outdoor structures because it’s traditionally affordable, widely available and exceptionally versatile. Pro builders know that not all wood is equal, however, and homeowners planning an outdoor project should learn what to expect from the various grades and species. Treated Lumber When lumber prices are up, treated wood still remains one of the most economically priced materials for exterior projects. If you want to use real wood for an outdoor project and expect it to withstand termites and fungal decay, your principal choices are either a naturally durable wood (such as cedar or cypress) or wood pressure-treated with preservative. Even when composite or synthetic materials are specified for decking or handrails, they’re usually supported by a strong framework of treated lumber made of spruce, pine or fir. More than 80 percent of all U.S. decks are built entirely or partially with preserved wood. The lumber grade of treated wood, typically made of SPF (spruce, pine or fir), is important to consider for your next project. Grades are assigned at the sawmill where the logs are cut, and the lumber is primarily graded on the strength of the board. For the most part, lumber is available in three tiers of quality: Good, Better, and Best. Even when composite or synthetic materials are specified for decking or handrails, they’re usually supported by a strong framework of pressure-treated lumber made of spruce, pine or fir. Good–Number 1 and Number 2 grades are commonly sold at local lumberyards. They offer good strength ratings but come with imperfections such as large knots, rounded bark edges, and some bowing or twisting. No. 1 will have fewer imperfections than No. 2. These grades are ideal for a cost-conscious DIY homeowner. Better–A bit more expensive, the Prime grade of Number 1 and Number 2 lumber features the same strength properties, but are listed as Prime based on appearance (regarding the amount of bark on the edges or the number of knots). This lumber is a bit more expensive, but you get what you pay for. Best–To guarantee the most beauty for your back yard, ask you lumber supplier for C & Better or Select Structural grade products, which offer the strongest lumber properties and better appearance. The boards should have no bark on the edges and only a few small knots. KDAT—The best treated lumber grades are also available in kiln-dried options, which eliminate the waiting period typically required before painting or staining for “wet” lumber. KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment) lumber is a high-grade product that offers a number of benefits. Treatment companies such as Great Southern Wood Preserving (the makers of Yellawood) even back their KDAT lumber with a lifetime warranty. The kiln-drying process reduces the lumber’s natural tendency to shrink, cup and warp, and it weighs less than freshly treated lumber. KDAT products are easier to handle, cut and install, have greater strength, more stiffness and increased holding power. Plus, the lumber is ready to be painted, stained or sealed immediately. Pre-colored lumber? That’s right. Now, you can skip the wood stain by building with treated lumber that has pigment driven deep into the wood grain during the preservation process. Photo © Prowood Lumber. Pre-colored treated wood, however, is a growing trend because it offers tinting options without the need of paint or staining. For example, Prowood Lumber offers Dura Color lumber made with a color-infused preservative that allows the wood's natural grain characteristics to remain visible. Rather than relying on a topical finish or stain that may quickly fade, the Dura Color pigment is driven deep into the wood fibers so it's guaranteed to stand up to the elements for years. Western Red Cedar Native to the northwestern United States and southwestern Canada, Western Red Cedar offers substantial advantages for building, finishing and long-term performance, and the main reason this species of wood isn’t more widely used is due to its availability and higher price. Cedar has a very low shrinkage factor and resists warping, twisting and checking, which makes it a good choice for narrow boards widths in outdoor applications such as latticework or pergola purlins. Photo courtesy of Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. The natural qualities of Western Red Cedar make it an excellent choice for outdoor projects like decks, pergolas and outdoor furniture. Cedar is one of the lightest commercial softwoods, so it’s easy to transport and handle. Cedar has an even, consistent grain, low density, and a low shrinkage factor superior to other coniferous woods which makes it less likely to swell, warp, cup and twist than other soft and hardwood species. As a result, it lies flat and straight—a huge help when assembling your project. Western Red Cedar is also pitch and resin-free so it’s ideal for accepting and holding a wide range of finishes including dark stains, bleaches, solid colors and semi-transparent finishes. Furthermore, Western Red Cedar fibers contain natural compounds called “thujaplicins” that act as preservatives to protect against rot and insect infestation. As a result, the wood will last without the need for chemical treatments. Learn more about cedar at www.realcedar.com. Cypress Cypress contains a naturally occurring preservative oil, similar to cedar. Cypress trees generate cypressene, which makes cypress heartwood resistant to insects, decay, chemical corrosion and other damaging elements. For this reason, the wood has long been a favorite choice for long-wearing outdoor applications such as siding, decking, fence posts, docks and even railroad ties. These cabinets are built of cypress to withstand the rigors of the outdoor environment. Photo courtesy of What Wood Cypress works well with both hand and power tools. The wood planes easily and resists warping. Although cypress is resinous, it glues well, sands easily, and can be painted or stained, offering a variety of finishing options. Its original honey-like hues can be maintained by applying a clear sealer. Left untouched, it will weather naturally to a gray. Most cypress trees are natives of the South and grow in the Atlantic and Gulf Coastal Plains from Delaware to Texas, as well as in the Mississippi Valley from the Louisiana Delta to southern Indiana. Learn more about cypress at www.cypressinfo.org It should be no surprise that wood which grows in wet environments can naturally withstand wet environments, as seen with this outdoor shower made from cypress. Courtesy of Bart Michaels Photography Exotic Hardwoods For the high-end tastes of demanding homeowners, exotic hardwoods have taken hold in the outdoor building market. Be prepared to pay a premium price for the material, but rainforest hardwoods such as Ipe and Pau-Lope offer an unmatched level of beauty and unique character as well as hardness and durability that far exceeds conventional lumber. Known for its tight, uniform grain and warm red tones, Ipe is an exotic hardwood that sells for a premium because its beauty is coupled with low-maintenance performance that can last nearly a hundred years. These exotic hardwoods offer significant advantages to justify the high price. Ipe, for example, grows in the Brazilian rainforest, so the trees contain natural oils and very dense tree fibers that protect it from insect infestation and the growth of mold and fungi (which lead to rot). Ipe also exhibits remarkable heat dispersion, which makes it popular for decks because the surface won’t burn bare feet. The wood will be cool to the touch all summer long, and it’s also naturally fire resistant—a superb material in wildfire-sensitive areas. Ipe is known for a smooth, uniform texture and a very fine grain with a slight wave, noted for its warm, red tones. It’s the natural aesthetics combined with superior performance that make exotic hardwoods such premium materials. A very dense exotic species like Ipe requires very little maintenance, and with proper care the wood can last close to 100 years. SIDE NOTE Kits Can Save Time & Labor Interested in improving your backyard but short on free time for home improvements? Or, are you a DIY’er who has yet to acquire all the woodworking tools needed to build a pergola, garden bench or picnic table? You might consider purchasing a pre-fab kit. With a pre-fab kit, all the cutting (including any tricky notching) will be done for you, and all the materials and hardware from the smallest screw to the largest board will be shipped to your house. Because all the prep work is done, assembling a pergola, arbor or outdoor furniture is usually a quick job, often completed in a weekend or less. A prefab kit eliminates errors because it’s been designed by engineers who create detailed blueprints and instructions to provide exactly the results you expect. Sometimes prefab kits can be more expensive than building your own design. However, for detailed projects such as a pergola, by the time you source the materials, carefully compare material costs, and drive to pick them up (or pay for delivery), you’ll likely have spent more time and money than you expected. A pre-fab kit is still someone else’s design, of course, so you’ll be limited in choices that might not precisely fit your particular parameters or suit your tastes. With a custom build, you’ll have the liberty to decide which type of wood, hardware and architectural details to use. Your best move is to research your options and compare costs to see what designs are available as kits and which approach to assembling the project best fits your lifestyle and available work time.

Whether you’re an ambitious DIY’er or a pro on the go, here are some handy tool recommendations to make your next tongue-and-groove floor installation go down more smoothly. Flooring Saw With a dedicated flooring saw, save time and energy by cutting boards right where you install them, rather than cycling back and forth between the floor and your sawhorses each time you need to resize a board. When flooring meets the walls of a room, the boards generally have to be cross-cut or ripped to width. A portable flooring saw uses a circular blade that glides along dual rails above an integrated work surface to make fence-guided rips with the accuracy of a table saw. Use the saw’s angle gauge to make straight or diagonal cuts with the accuracy of a miter saw. Attach a shop-vac hose to the dust port while cutting to collect sawdust for a tidy work environment. The HIR team uses a Skil Flooring Saw, which features a high-RPM, 7-amp motor, similar to a grinder motor that turns in the neighborhood of 11,000 RPM to achieve fine cuts with a small 4-3/8-in. diameter blade. The saw comes in a small, lightweight package, is easy to carry, and cuts flooring up to 3/4-in. thick. Buzz Cutter “Buzz Cutter” is a pet name the HIR team has given to the awkwardly termed “oscillating multi-tool,” which has been given a different label by every manufacturer. Bosch has the Multi-X, Rockwell calls it the Sonicrafter, Dremel dubs theirs the Multi-Max, but they’re all Buzz Cutters to us. Available in both corded and cordless versions, these tools use high-speed oscillation rather than a rotating or reciprocating blade, which enables the various accessory blades to scrape, sand, plunge-cut, flush-cut and more. The oscillating action allows the user to perform either the fine, detail work of a jigsaw or to tackle more aggressive floor-installation applications. One of the unintended consequences of installing a new floor, for example, is the increased height of the finished surface, which often won’t fit beneath existing door casings. A buzz cutter equipped with a flush-cutting wood blade makes it easy to undercut the casing so the flooring will fit beneath the trim. These multi-function tools can be equipped with a variety of different accessories for cutting off pipe, removing grout, making electrical cutouts and much more. Finish Nailer For securing the first and last few rows of nail-down T&G flooring, a 16-gauge finish nailer provides more working room against walls and a better line of sight than a stand-up tool. The 16-gauge nails leave a smaller, less visible hole when face-nailing. Or, use the tool to blind-nail the boards at a 45-deg. angle through the pocket of the tongues, which conceals the fasteners within the joint. Flooring Stapler Once you’ve installed the first few rows of nail-down T&G flooring, you’ll have enough clearance to employ the tool of choice for most professional flooring installers—a pneumatic flooring stapler (usually available to DIY’ers at rental outlets). Powered by an air compressor, these mallet-actuated fastening tools secure the joints with a rock-solid connection using 14- to 16-gauge wire staples up to 2" long. A quality floor stapler is a worthwhile investment for a flooring professional, and a recommended rental item for DIY installers because of the time and labor saved, when compared to hand-nailing. Heavy-Duty Pull Bar To pull tongue-and-groove boards away from a wall when there’s no clearance to use a hammer and tapping block, most installers use a pull bar. The problem with a cheap S-shaped pull bar is that over time, all the hammer strikes can bend the tab outward so it no longer catches the hammer blows, which renders the pull bar useless. Furthermore, with shorter pull bars, the close proximity of the tab to the wall can make it difficult to swing the hammer. That’s why we like the design of the Bullet Tools’ Heavy Duty Pull Bar. It has a steel block that provides a heavy-duty hammer contact point that doesn't absorb your strike. It’s 17 inches long for better reach and clearance, and the fully felted bottom protects your new flooring. It even has a beveled end to pry into tight spaces. Contour Gauge Need to make a complicated cut in a piece of flooring? You can make a paper template, or maybe map it by taking multiple measurements … or you can save time by using a contour gauge. A contour gauge is designed to duplicate any shape instantly. This profile gauge creates an instant template for curved and odd shaped profiles, which you can trace onto the workpiece to guide the cut. Similar to a hair comb, the tool (also known as a profile comb) features a row of long, thin, moveable teeth and a perpendicular housing that holds them in place as they take an impression of the surface. A contour gauge is ideal for fitting flooring around moldings, copying curves, and a variety of other contour-matching jobs. Two 10-in. gauges can be combined to measure and duplicate larger shapes. The tool fits around most common pipes and round columns, so you can grab a pencil and easily copy shapes to tile, laminate, engineered wood, solid wood and vinyl flooring to precisely cut flooring to match objects. The 833 Plastic Contour Gauge from General Tools features 3-in. deep fingers that measure profiles up to 1-1/4 inch. Rather than utilizing the thin metal pins (which tended to dislodge) of old-fashioned gauges, the new model features tough, durable plastic that will not harm the original finish of the shape being duplicated. Bessey Flooring Tools A few years ago, Bessey Tools introduced some handy items that have becomes staples in the HIR flooring toolkit. For lateral support of flooring, such as when you need to push a board away from a wall to close a tongue-and-groove joint, Bessey offers the Spacer PVA. This adjustable tool works like a clamp in reverse to spread the space between the wall and flooring, pushing the boards together. To tighten or hold the installation across several rows of adjoining floor boards, the Bessey SVH Flooring and Clamping System extends the reach of the clamping action by incorporating a band of high-strength polyester between two durable clamping heads. The SVH400 offers 157 inches of reach, while the SVH400XL has a 300-in. clamping capacity. This tool is a big help for holding stubborn boards in position while you fasten them in place. #flooring #floorinstallation #flooringtools #floor_installation #flooring_tools #hardwoodinstallation #hardwoodflooring

Ipe deck stained with ExoShield Premium Wood Stain (guest post by Keaton Smith) American homeowners annually spend anywhere from thousands of dollars to tens of thousands to build new decks, fix older ones and enhance the livability of outdoor areas. However, all the renovations have at least one thing in common despite the price tag—the desire for long-lasting, quality results. For some, this means working with contractors to specify the latest low-maintenance composite deck boards from the wide selection of colors and wood-grain patterns. In other instances, real hardwood decking is the preference among homeowners who relish the natural beauty, durability and hardness of Ipe, Cumaru and Batu decking, as well as the natural resistance to decay, rotting, termites and bugs. But, no matter the material, nearly every deck requires some form of maintenance to prevent algae and fungus growth, as well as the inevitable discoloring that accompanies age. As a result, hardwood decks that are exposed to a year-long assault of sunlight and humidity should be stained every year or two depending on the wear, tear and discoloration. One simple test that can easily be performed by just about anyone involves splashing water onto the decking surface. If the water beads up, it can probably go another year without staining. But, if the water soaks into the wood, then it’s definitely time to add another coat. Now, the real challenge—selecting the right stain from the hundreds of oil- and water-based mixtures delineated by the seemingly unending variety of transparent, semitransparent, semisolid, and solid options. This is on top of the protective, longevity, application and coverage qualities that vary among all the different products. While many water-based stains claim to last for years and often dry quicker with less odor, most just don’t offer the UV protection provided by many high-quality, oil-based stains. Additional considerations surround the numerous quality and performance differences that exist among leading oil-based stain brands. In most cases, this starts with the very composition of the stain itself and then extends to the multiple assortment of UV blockers, pigments, dyes, fungicide, and oils included in today’s products. For example, many of the oils commonly used in wood stains tend to change color over time. Some even harbor mildew and mold, such as linseed oil, which can lead to the wood turning black or discolored. In fact, the only reason these oils are used by some companies is because they lower the product’s cost, no matter the inferior results. When it comes to the choice of oils, Polymerized Tung Oil has proven its ability to preserve wood and outperform other products, although many users are turned off by the lengthy amount of time it takes to dry. However, some manufacturers have actually overcome this problem through the addition of high-quality drying and hardening agents that have drastically reduced the time to dry from weeks to days. Plus, another advantage that makes Polymerized Tung Oil worth the wait involves the long-lasting capacity to retain color over time, while naturally resisting mildew and mold. As for the dyes and pigments used in most stains, trans-oxide pigments are commonly viewed as the more color-stable of the two, which results in the stain maintaining its original color longer than those that contain dyes or solid pigments. Builders should note that stains containing trans-oxide pigments are not cheap and often bear a higher price. In addition, builders should never purchase a wood stain without considering the wide range of ingredients. American-made fungicides, UV blockers and trans-oxide pigments generally combine to better resist water, acid and fading, while also actively increasing the wood’s ability to resist cracking or warping, enhance stability, and showcase the wood’s natural luster and beauty. It should also be noted that the highest quality stains use the same UV blockers found in automotive paints, which is another reason these higher-end products tend to cost more, but produce higher-quality results. Another advantage of certain high-end stain/sealers are their ease of use. That’s because there’s no need to strip or sand the previous coat before their application, and the best products produce lower amounts of VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) to ensure user- and environmentally-friendly results. There’s far more to the selection of wood stain than price. In most cases, the components and ingredients vary significantly, while playing an integral role in the wood’s weathering and the homeowner’s long-term satisfaction—all extremely important considerations throughout the buying process. Overlooking a stunning view of Lake Tahoe, this 1080 sq. ft. Batu deck is preserved with ExoShield Premium Wood stain, which uses a proprietary blend of Tung oil, UV blockers, fungicide, and trans-oxide pigments. Author bio: Keaton Smith is Nova USA Wood Products’ ExoShield Product Manager. For more information, visit www.novausawood.com. #stain #construction #exoshield #sealer #deck #preservative #batu #homeimprovement #ipe #premium #wood #contractor #decking #nova #pergola #remodeling

Aluminum Window Trim provides a low-maintenance and durable solution for residential exteriors. Also known as Aluminum Window Wrap, this trim solution works like armor to protect the window frames from the ravages of the outdoor elements. The trim is installed during new window installation or when replacing your old ones. The specialized equipment (i.e., a sheet-metal brake) and required metal-crafting skills make this project better suited for pro installers than DIY’ers. The aluminum trim coil comes in a wide variety of colors, however, so it should be easy for your contractor to match almost any color to your house. This trim method conceals the window’s brick mold and sill in overlapping aluminum casing that is fabricated on-site. The aluminum coil is cut to length and then bent on the brake into a profile that matches the window trim’s size and shape. Metal snips and hand brakes are used to adjust the final shape, then the sill piece is installed first (prior to window installation) using finish nails. Next come the side pieces that shed water over the sill plate. Finally, the top piece is nailed in place so it overlaps the sides to shed water. Once completely installed, all the aluminum joints and fastener holes are sealed with a high-quality exterior-grade sealant. If you’re interested in this aluminum armor for your new or replacement windows, then reach out to reputable contractors in your area to see who offers the service. Here are a few photos of the job in progress: #windows #windowtrim #aluminumwindowtrim #windowwrap #aluminumwrap

(guest post courtesy of Michelle Stansbury) Almost every contractor has experienced miscommunication on the job site. Even when projects are approved and carefully scheduled, misinterpretation or misunderstanding between stakeholders can eventually lead to disputes. Neither contractors nor customers want to delay deadlines or go over budget, but sometimes unforeseen issues cause necessary changes in scope. Luckily, focusing on clear, consistent documentation and open communication helps both prevent disputes and resolve any problems that do arise quickly and fairly. What is a dispute? A dispute is a disagreement between two or more parties involved in a contract that must be resolved or renegotiated. In construction and remodeling, disputes are typically a result of communication errors. Homeowners may be dissatisfied with changes to schedule or budget that contractors failed to accurately predict. While occasionally these adjustments are made due to construction errors, often contractors are not at fault. Under-staffing, supply chain interruptions, extreme weather, and other unpredictable challenges frequently result in scope changes. But, if contractors cannot prove they’ve made every effort to complete work on time and within budget, they may not be able to favorably resolve disputes. On the other side, homeowners sometimes approve designs based on misunderstanding. They may misinterpret how material and labor costs will add up or what work will be completed during each phase of a project. Contracts and designs should be carefully reviewed, and homeowners should be prepared to ask questions. How can contractors prevent disputes? The first step to avoiding disputes is clearly documenting day-to-day work on each project. It is the contractor’s responsibility to track progress and keep customers informed and engaged. Detailed documentation Detailed daily reporting from the job site protects contractors in several ways. Internally, project managers can review work as it’s completed each day and ensure the job stays on schedule. They can catch any potential issues early and resolve them before they develop into costly and time-consuming delays. When they are planning future bids, contractors can also review historical data from previous jobs to plan more accurate budgets and schedules. Collecting clear, consistent documentation helps mitigate the risk of disputes because it provides contractors with a reliable record of productivity. During an ongoing project, daily reports are proof of what’s happening onsite. And when a job is in the planning phase, they are an excellent tool for accurately assessing your team’s capabilities. Clear communication The second step for preventing disputes is to consistently and proactively share documentation with customers. Keeping homeowners in the loop builds trust and helps them understand all the work that’s going into a project as well as any challenges. When they are informed and engaged, homeowners will quickly realize if there has been a misunderstanding. Contractors can help customers interpret job-site progress by providing documentation that is clear and easy to understand. For example, photos and videos are an excellent way to communicate progress and potential issues without details getting lost in translation. Offer a chance for homeowners to ask questions and provide timely, accurate responses. How can homeowners help? Homeowners can prevent disputes by carefully reviewing documentation and making sure to get clarification when needed. They can set clear expectations by confirming details of a design plan or deadlines as they understand them. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. By actively engaging with contractors, customers will demonstrate that they want to be an active participant in the remodeling process. Fast, accurate digital documentation Implementing a streamlined digital construction management tool helps contractors improve documentation and communication. Digital reports are faster and more accurate than pen and paper. Digital reporting and documentation keeps projects on track and helps contractors communicate more efficiently with both internal teams and their customers Raken’s easy-to-use project management app offers a wide range of capabilities, including: daily reporting, time tracking, photo and video documentation, and report automation. Raken makes it simple to track progress and share real-time insights instantly through the cloud in a clear, professional PDF format. With all historical data stored in a single location, Raken also helps contractors resolve disputes that do occur quickly, because specific documents are easily searched and found. Communication is key Disputes may seem unavoidable, but with open communication, most misunderstandings can be amicably resolved. When contractors use digital tools to streamline reporting and present information in an easy-to-understand format, homeowners can feel comfortable and confident they’ve chosen the best team for the job.

(guest post courtesy of Valerie Smith) The summer season is approaching and, as all of us garden-lovers know, this could mean stress for your plants. It’s good to know what will ultimately help your garden flourish during the hottest part of the year. Read on for a list of summer garden maintenance tips. 1. Deadhead and Prune First, there’s a difference between deadheading and pruning. When you deadhead a plant, you’re removing dead leaves or blossoms. Pruning, on the other hand, means you’re removing any part of the plant to make it smaller in some way. Deadheading before summertime allows your plants to keep producing. It tricks the plant into thinking it needs to produce more. Pruning established plants at this time, like fruit trees for example, allows them to also produce more. Additionally, pruning reduces shade and increases air circulation to help your plants grow. Pruning helps with slow growth, disease or insect resistance and it restores the shape and structure of trees and shrubs. 2. Keep Soil Moist but Don’t Overwater The summer season is probably one of the most important times to keep your garden hydrated. A mistake many gardeners make, however, is overwatering plants. Overwatering plants increases the likelihood of disease outbreaks. Fungi thrive in warm, moist areas, so if you’ve overwatered your garden, you may have just given fungi a home. A good soak every 3–4 days in the morning will help plant roots dig deeper into the soil where they will be cooler. Even if you see damage on the plant above ground, the roots below ground may have a better chance of surviving the heat of summer. Most importantly, keep an eye on any wilting plant—especially those located in direct sunlight. Check the soil around the plant to see if it’s damp or dry. If it’s dry, go ahead and water those specific plants again. 3. Fertilize Fertilization is an important part of summer garden care. It provides your garden with nutrients to withstand the summer heat and continue flourishing. Sod University recommends two different fertilizer options for the summer; however you will only need to use one of the two options for summer fertilization. Using both at the same time may result in burns in your lawn. Option 1: Lawnifi® Summer Fertilizer Box is a liquid fertilizer program designed to give plants the nutrients they need to survive and flourish during hot summer months. With one bottle of Maintain and two bottles of Recover, the Summer Fertilizer Box’s application schedule provide garden nutrition all summer long. Maintain’s 16-0-4 formulation works to fortify plants with potassium, amino acids and carbon. Recover’s 13-0-0 formulation provides the optimal balance of nutrients to gardens as temperatures start to rise. In addition to nitrogen, Recover delivers critical micronutrients like soluble manganese, iron, sulfur and carbon. Each bottle hooks right up to the end of your garden hose for an even spray application. Option 2: Lawnifi Foundation, a granular fertilizer option that comes in a 25-pound bag and feeds for three months. With a 29-0-5 NPK formulation, Lawnifi Foundation is an ideal granular fertilizer for gardens. The two-percent iron included in Lawnifi Foundation’s mixture helps plants carry oxygen throughout the leaves, roots and other parts of the plant to promote a green, healthy lawn. Featuring slow-release nitrogen, Foundation gradually feeds your garden over an extended period of time without overwhelming the lawn. Both Lawnifi Foundation and the Summer Fertilizer Box cover 5,000 sq. ft. 4. Keep an Eye Out for Pesky Insects As temperatures climb, more and more insects start coming out. Depending on where you live, you may experience a really “buggy” summer. Believe it or not, there are many insects and bugs that can harm your garden. You may be familiar with some of the ones listed below: ● Aphids ● Caterpillars ● Japanese beetles ● Spittlebugs ● Fire ants ● Cutworms ● Scales ● Spider mites ● Squash bug Despite the long list of harmful garden insects, there are good ones to keep an eye out for. Some of these include honeybees, earwigs or paper wasps. 5. Prevent Weeds It’s typically not a good idea to apply any weed-control products during the summer. Due to high temperatures, weed control can sometimes burn or damage desired plants when applied. If you’ve noticed weeds sprouting, make a mental note to apply a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring next year to prevent weeds from popping up. Next, a solution could be to hand-pull the weeds or spot treat them. If temperatures are consistently below 85 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s generally safe to apply post-emergent herbicides for any summer annual and perennial weeds. However, we suggest waiting until it gets closer to the fall season. If temperatures are low one day and exceed 85 degrees in the following days, the grass is still vulnerable to damage from the herbicide. A last, effective solution is to prevent any future weeds from surfacing by adding mulch to gardens. This makes it hard for unwanted weeds to access sunlight or to grow through the layer of mulch. 6. Add Temporary Shade Creating shady areas to place potted plants in or to cover your garden is extremely beneficial as it keeps plants from getting too heat stressed. Here are a few ideas: ● Plant other plants like sunflowers to help block the sun. Sunflowers love full sun, so they will thrive in this environment. ● Use a shade cloth to cover the area of plants that need shade. ● Use umbrellas to create shade. 7. Transplant Now Before the onset of summer heat, it’s highly recommended to do any necessary transplanting now. Transplanting during the summer is actually more stressful for plants. The summer heat can be intense. Plants are already transpiring moisture at this time, so transplanting is stressful. Transplant now before temperatures get too warm so that the plants have time to establish roots in their new environments. 8. Remove Spring Plants and Add Summer and Fall Plants Certain vegetables like tomatoes and peppers grow well in the spring as they are warm season plants. This means they won’t grow as well during the fall. Remove any spring crops and start adding fall crops in the late summer. The same can be said for spring and fall ornamentals. Now that you have an idea of some things you can do to help your garden during the summer season, it’ll be more than ready to tackle the highest temperatures of the year. Happy gardening! Editor's Note: This article was written by Sod Solutions Content Strategist, Valerie Smith. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to our weekly newsletter.

Dust Deputy 2.5 DIY Cyclone Separator The latest Dust Deputy dust-collection system is perfect for the serious DIY woodworker. The Dust Deputy 2.5 model uses your existing shop vacuum to provide the suction power that keeps dust out of the air and clear of the work site. It features an improved, high-airflow cyclone design that stops over 99% of fine dust and bulk debris from clogging your vacuum's filter. The HIR staff has been using the original Dust Deputy as a wall-mounted unit, and we’ve had no problem with its airflow, but the new model offers even greater capacity in case you ever need it. Use the Dust Deputy to upgrade any make/model shop vacuum with 2.5" hose fittings. It mounts to any size and type of reinforced, airtight container. Simply run one hose from your power tool to the Dust Deputy, and run a second hose from the Dust Deputy to your vacuum. The Deluxe kit we tested came with a hose and a wheeled collection bin. Although the wall-mounted option keeps the Dust Deputy from cluttering the floor of my workshop, I also like the flexibility of the wheeled base, because on sunny days I like to roll my tools outside and set up a workbench. This new setup will help keep the outdoors just as tidy as the wall-mounted version keeps the indoors. Smartly designed and affordably priced, the Dust Deputy collection tool is a smart investment for any DIY woodworker or even for a pro who is new to the business. Visit www.oneida-air.com. – Matt Weber Metabo HPT 36V Multivolt Cordless Impact Wrench Major muscle in a small package, the 36V MultiVolt Cordless 1/2” Mid-Torque Impact Wrench (model WR36DE) is water- and dust-resistant with an IP56 rating to handle harsh conditions. With Brushless motor technology, this impact wrench has plenty of power for all mid-torque applications. It delivers 568 ft-lbs. of tightening torque and 774 ft-lbs. of nut-busting torque with up to 2,400 RPM and 3,400 BPM. At only 4.2 lbs, it’s easy to use in overhead applications or for all-day use. It has a a 4-stage speed selection panel and a variable speed trigger, plus an AutoStop System that prevents bolts from breaking in the case of overtightening. Like all the 36V MultiVolt cordless tools from Metabo HPT, the impact wrench has the ability to be converted to corded use with the AC adapter (model ET36A, sold separately). Use the mid-torque impact wrench cordless; however, if the battery needs to be recharged and you have no spares ready, plug in with the AC adapter and keep going. Visit https://www.metabo-hpt.com/ DeWalt DW735X 13'' 2-Speed Planer This new DeWalt planer has become indispensable for the HIR crew. We use it to plane boards for all manner of wood projects, including table tops, window shutters, barn doors and more. With a powerful 15-amp, 20,000-rpm motor (10,000-rpm cutterhead speed) the DeWalt DW735X Planer can easily handle large cuts in wide material. The planer features a three-knife cutter designed to deliver 30% longer life and make blade changes faster and easier. The two-speed gear box allows users to change the feed speed to optimize cuts per inch at 96 or 179 CPI, for dimensioning boards or for smooth finishing. A fan-assisted chip-ejection system vacuums chips off of the cutter-head and exhausts them through an outlet port, which you can connect to a dust collector. Plus, the 19-3/4" cast aluminum base is twice as rigid as a standard 10" base and folding tables. The DeWalt DW735X includes infeed and outfeed tables and an extra set of knives. Highly recommended for woodworkers. Visit https://www.dewalt.com Dremel Electric Scissors Dremel released its new Electric Scissors to help DIY’ers tackle a range of cutting needs around the house and for crafting too. The HIR team got our hands on a test sample, and the scissors are an ideal tool for making short work of pesky clamshell packages and more. The scissors are powered by a 4V MAX rechargeable lithium-ion battery and have ultra-sharp blades to cut easily through materials from cardboard to fabrics and hard plastics. With a slim tool body design, the electric scissors can be carried in a toolbox or pocket. The tool set comes with a USB charger to power up in only 90 minutes, and includes an extra-set of replaceable shears. The Dremel Electric Scissor kit is now available on Amazon.com and in-store and online at The Home Depot and Lowe’s. WallQuest Wallcoverings with DuPont Tedlar Film Technology WallQuest, will launch a new line of wallcoverings featuring DuPont Tedlar film, which provides surface protection from dirt, stains, scuffs, as well as prevents fading. The new wallcoverings will include a large range of new patterns for both residential and commercial applications and is expected to be available in early June under the WallQuest's Seabrook and Questex brands. Tedlar-coated wallcoverings are even resistant to the harshest chemical cleaners, including bleach and alcohol-based solvents, meaning even the toughest stains can be wiped off without any damage to the appearance of the wallcovering. To learn more about the Tedlar technology, visit http://tedlar.com. Milwaukee M18 Orbital ¼" Sheet Sander The new M18 Orbital ¼" Sheet Sander offers the lowest vibration and best dust collection in its class, while optimizing for performance on the jobsite. The M18 Orbital ¼" Sheet Sander is designed to replace corded sander performance with variable speeds ranging from 11,000 – 13,000 orbits per minute, creating a stain-grade orbital finish. The low vibration enhances comfort and control, while reducing fatigue. Its durable dust bag and universal hose adaptor decrease cleanup time, and its two-step clamp system allows for quick sandpaper changes. The M18 Orbital ¼" Sheet Sander is built for professional carpenters needing to leave the best finish while removing the least amount of material. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Ryobi 3000 PSI 1.1 GPM Brushless Electric Pressure Washer Ryobi introduces its most powerful electric pressure washer to date: The 3000 PSI 1.1 GPM Brushless Electric Pressure Washer can handle the toughest jobs without the hassle of gas, blasting through dirt, grime, oil, and other tough stains with up to 3,000 PSI and 1.1 GPM of force. The premium brushless motor with water-cooling technology provides increased tool performance. Quietly blasting away stains on driveways, sidewalks, siding, patio furniture and other surfaces, the new pressure washer eliminates the hassle of gas with a more environmentally friendly solution that provides as much power as gas-powered homeowner models. It comes comes equipped with a 5-in-1 Quick-Change Nozzle (15°, 25°, 40°, Fan Soap, and Jet Soap) for versatile cleaning and a Turbo Nozzle for up to 50% faster cleaning than a standard nozzle. Easily store the nozzles on the on-board accessory storage when the job is done. This Pressure Washer is available exclusively at TheHomeDepot.com Delta Trinsic Wheel-handle Faucets If you’re looking clients for an industrial touch in the bathroom, then check out the new wheel handle option to the popular Trinsic bath collection by Delta Faucet. Delta faucets with Diamond Seal Technology perform like new for life with a patented design which reduces leak points, is less hassle to install, and lasts twice as long as the industry standard. Visit https://www.deltafaucet.com/ Falmec Outdoor Ventilation Hoods Falmec, an elite Italian appliance manufacturer, launched a collection of outdoor range hoods. Built with high-quality 304 stainless steel, the outdoor line is highly resistant to corrosion and suitable for the harshest of North American climates. With an initial launch of three contemporary models, the Outdoor Collection consists of the Zeus, Line, and Pyramid Outdoor units. Each model is designed for wall mount installation and is available in 36”, 42”, and 48” configurations. A streamlined design, Italian craftsmanship, and hand-polished seams and welds combine to create a visually pleasing collection of exterior ventilation solutions. Visit falmec.com. FrogTape High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape FrogTape brand introduces High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape engineered to consistently adhere to difficult surfaces such as self-cleaning paints and rough textures, including stucco, brick and concrete. It is ideal for outdoor projects that require a strong, conformable tape that offers clean removal without shredding. High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape offers very high adhesion for tough outdoor uses. Not only does it stick to difficult, uneven substrates, but it also adheres well to painted wood, aluminum, steel and vinyl. Plus, its crepe paper backing allows it to conform easily to bends and turns, making a quick task of masking around exterior doorways and windows. This unique, time-saving flexibility makes High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape an ideal toolbox staple for painting contractors. Note that High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape is recommended for outdoor use only, and due to its very high adhesion, users should always test the tape on a surface before application. And while this tape will provide clean paint lines, it does not contain FrogTape’s PaintBlock Technology. Visit frogtape.com/contractors Kempas Flooring from Elemental Hardwoods Elemental Hardwoods has added solid Kempas, a hard and durable orange-brown hardwood that carmelizes in color as it ages, to its premium line of exotic hardwood flooring products. Sometimes called Asian Cherry, Kempas (Koompassia malaccensis botanical name) is ideal for transforming ordinary flooring into long-lasting, beautiful and natural works of art. Elemental’s clean select-and-better grade Kempas is 100% solid heartwood, prefinished with a 15-20% low gloss finish and sourced under stringent Forest Management standards. Its 1710 Janka hardness rating is much harder than domestic oak, maple and walnut, while the medium color range of orange-reds to carmel-beiges age nicely to magnificently complement today’s style trends at a competitive price. Visit www.elementalhardwoods.com. Diablo’s Demo Demon Spade Bits Demo Demon Spade Bits provide one of the most durable, effortless, and longest lasting hole-drilling solutions on the market for nail-embedded wood. The DEMO-Edge dual cutting edges coupled with a self-feeding Dura-Tip power through nail hits for a smooth drilling experience and up to 60X longer life. A curved paddle design enhances the chip-evacuation process for more holes per charge. This product range is Impact Strong for increased shank stability and durability in cordless and corded impact and drill drivers. https://www.diablotools.com/ Schluter-KERDI-LINE Linear Drain Grates in Matte Black Matte black for hardware, décor, and finishes continues to be on trend, with its bold, modern style. Bathroom design was quick to embrace this timeless look, with matte black faucets and shower heads. Schluter-Systems is expanding its family of matte black products by introducing two new grates that are available for its KERDI-LINE linear drain. The SOLID and SQUARE grates are now available in matte black, in a variety of sizes. Blend right in with a darker tile or create contrast by choosing a lighter tile. These new linear drain grates combine perfectly with the Schluter-SHELF and various Schluter profiles also available in matte black. Visit www.schluter.com. Peerless Flute Kitchen and Bath Collections The new Peerless Flute Kitchen and Bath Collections are inspired by the trend of clean minimalist design, featuring smooth curves perfect for a contemporary space. The Flute Kitchen Collection is available in Matte Black, Stainless Steel and Chrome It includes a Single-Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet and Kitchen Soap Dispenser. It has a 3-function pull-down sprayer with POWERinse technology and offers a 1-hole sink application. The Flute Bathroom Collection is available in Matte Black, Brushed Nickel and Chrome, including a Single-Handle Lavatory Faucets and a Two-Handle Widespread Lavatory Faucet. The Single-Handle Faucet comes in two spout heights and fits 1- or 3-hole sink applications. Visit Peerlessfaucet.com. Trex Transcend Lineage Trex Transcend Lineage is a new composite deck board that features “subtle, elegant graining that delivers an unmatched natural appearance.” Available in two new color options – Rainier, an airy mountain grey, and Biscayne, a light coastal brown – these new offerings are engineered with heat-mitigating technology in the shell to reflect the sun and keep boards cooler than other composite decking offerings of a similar color. Like all Trex decking, Lineage boards are made from recycled and reclaimed content and engineered with a proprietary, high-traffic formulation and ultra-durable integrated shell that resists stains, scratches and mold. They won’t rot, warp, crack or splinter, and upkeep is hassle-free. No sanding, staining or painting is ever needed, and spills wash off easily with just soap and water. Visit Lineage.Trex.com.

How to Install the Track and Hanger Hardware for an Interior Barn Door For the last few years, the hottest trend in interior door design has been the popularity of barn-door hardware which rolls the door along a wall-mounted track. This style of door conserves floor space, plus the track configuration may be applied to double bypass doors and even smaller cabinet doors. As a decorative feature, the hardware itself adds an interesting design element, and it’s versatile enough to support a door made of practically any sort of rigid material with otherwise impossible options in appearance or shape, since the door doesn’t have to be built within the confines of hinge placement. Ordering the Hardware Barn door hardware is available in a wide range of styles and finishes with a broad array of accessories, such as decorative wheels, matching door handles, etc. The door hardware kits also come in a range of weight-carrying capacities, so make sure the kit you order can support the weight of whatever door you’ve chosen. The size of the track will be determined by your door size. Manufacturers usually recommend the track length be at least twice the width of the door (or the opening). For example, if the door or opening is 30 inches wide, you’ll need a 60-in. long track. The track of a barn door is typically designed with mounting locations spaced 16 inches on center to align with standard wall-stud spacing. However, the location where you’d like to mount the track might not align with the wall studs. If the mounting holes don’t match the studs, you have two options: (1) You can mount the track using hollow wall anchors, or (2) install a mounting board anchored into the wall studs then mount the track into the board. The wall anchors and mounting board will be sold separately from the kits. On this project, we went with Option 2 and stained our mounting board to match the existing 1x6 rustic trim already decorating the kitchen. Preparing the Site Before you begin, take inventory of the barn-door hardware kit to ensure it includes all the components listed on the contents. If you’re replacing an old door, make any necessary repairs to the surrounding trim or casing. Installing the Wall Track First step is to locate the wall framing with a stud finder. Mark the studs with painter’s tape to avoid pencil marks on the wall. Place the track in its horizontal position on the wall to see if the mounting holes align with the studs. The midpoint of the track should align with the edge of the door opening. On this project, a couple of the fastener holes happened to align with the king studs of the doorway, but not with enough studs to satisfy us. Rather than use toggle bolts in the drywall, we installed the horizontal mounting board to give the remaining screws solid material to grip. The board was fastened with 3-in. screws driven into the studs. Each stud got two screws; a lower decking screw hidden behind the track and an upper trim-head screw filled with putty and stained to match the wood. (Tool tip: A cabinet jack or temporary brace can help support the board when fastening.) Draw the line for your track. Our kit’s instructions specified that we draw a level line at exactly 1-11/16 inch plus door height above the floor (instructions will vary). We drew a level pencil line on the face of our mounting board. Position the track with its mounting holes aligned with the pencil line. Mark all fastener locations. Drill pilot holes holes with a 1/4-in. drill bit (for concrete walls, use a 3/8-in. concrete bit). Slide the door stoppers onto the end of each track but leave them loose without tightening their screws. Once tightened, these hard rubber blocks will prevent the door from running off the track. The track is installed with three-piece fasteners that include long lag screws, washers, and rubber spacers (plus a hollow wall anchor, if necessary). When mounted, the track is clamped between the washers and spacers to hold it away from the wall and provide clearance for the wheeled hangers. To hang the track, loosely attach one end and let the other end hang down. Then, swing the track up and attach the other end. Finally, fill in the middle holes. Tighten all the lag screws. Installing the Door Attach the kit’s hangers to your door top. On the door shown, we drilled 7/16-in. holes through the door for the hanger bolts. Pay close attention to the instructions included with your kit, because measurements will vary among products and manufacturers. For example, these hangers required holes driven at 1-9/16 in. and 3-9/16 in. from the top. Fasten the bolts with nuts and washers. Hanging the door is a simple procedure; just align the center groove of the hanger wheels with the track. The weight of the door might make lifting it in place a challenge, however, so enlist help accordingly. The kit shown included anti-jump pads that screw to the top of the door to keep it from extending too far. The last step was screwing a simple bracket (included) to the floor, which serves as a floor guide and prevents the door from swinging out from the wall. Tighten the stop blocks according to where you want the door to travel along the track, and that’s all there is to a DIY barn-door upgrade A simple trim package around the doorway gives the installation a finished look. New Life for an Old Door A good friend of ours who was remodeling an old house had planned to dispose of this funky 70s-era door with huge wood florets. We had other plans and talked him out of it. My wife Shanna stripped off the old lime-colored paint, expecting to reclaim it with a new “faux antique” finish, but she never got that far. By the time the old coatings had been stripped, scraped and sanded, the resulting wood surface had so much rugged character she decided to preserve it “as is” to complement the rustic décor of the kitchen where it would live. After a light coat of stain and a few coats of matte polyurethane, the door had exactly the look the space needed. - M. Weber Get Creative Doors mounted with this type of track hardware don't need to fit within the confines of a door jamb. This means the track can be used to mount any sort of door... even one you create in your workshop. Cabinet doors are another popular application for track hardware. #barndoor #barn_door #barndoorhardware #barn_door_hardware

Double-stud construction is a modern energy-efficient framing concept that is gaining ground among professional homebuilders. To get the nitty-gritty on the basics, HIR turned to construction expert Ben Bogie: “Double-stud construction is a type of wall that’s often used in cold climates (zone 4 and above) to gain large amounts of insulation, using common building materials and avoiding environmentally harmful foam. In most versions, the exterior is constructed with a typical 2x4 load-bearing wall just like the ones found in most houses. Then, a second non-load-bearing wall is built to the interior spaced away from the exterior wall. The amount that it’s spaced apart can vary, depending on how much insulation is desired. In Maine, we typically build 10-12-in. walls, but they can range anywhere from 8-16 inches. “There are a few reasons these walls are favored. First is how well they perform thermally, and that’s not just because they have a lot more insulation, but because they have insulation in the right places. There’s a phenomenon called thermal bridging where you have framing material touching the outside wall surface and the inside drywall. These framing pieces act as a bridge for indoor heat to flow across them to the outside during the winter, and outside heat to flow in during the summer. But if you space the walls apart, you short-circuit this highway of energy loss and end up with a wall that performs dramatically better. "You can accomplish the same effect by adding continuous insulation to the outside of your wall, stopping the energy flow through the framing, but that requires an additional complicated ‘lap’ all the way around the outside of your building with expensive and potentially not-so-environmentally-friendly materials. (There are more ecologically benign products becoming available, but they are still quite expensive, comparatively). “Double-stud walls use low-cost, common building materials that any carpenter or handy person is already familiar with and requires no special training. There are some factors to be aware of: These walls perform best with cellulose insulation, and the addition of what’s known as a “rain screen.” They should also be built as airtight as possible, minimizing the accumulation of wintertime humidity in the wall. They are far from complicated to build, the cost is low for their level of performance, and they utilize environmentally friendly and readily available materials.” NOTE: Always consult your local building codes for specific construction guidance. Ben Bogie is a second-generation high-performance builder working as a lead carpenter in Portland, Maine, and is an active member of the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association. He specializes in building science, low-energy designs, and high-end custom finishes. #doublestudwall #double_stud_wall

As summer approaches and families across North America begin to spend more time together, deck safety must remain a top priority. National Nail's CAMO® deck fastening brand partners with the North American Deck & Railing Association's (NADRA) Deck Safety Month® in May to encourage deck safety for contractors and homeowners. "As a NADRA Deck Safety Ambassador, we encourage homeowners to inspect their decks to make sure they're ready for summer entertaining," said W. Scott Baker, CEO, National Nail. CAMO and NADRA urge homeowners and contractors to inspect their decks for deterioration of structural materials from water, climate factors and the corrosion of structural fasteners and connectors. "This year more than ever, everyone is excited to get back outdoors with their loved ones, but please help keep them safe and check your deck before gathering," said Mike Beaudry, Executive Vice President, NADRA. NADRA's free "10-Point Consumer Safety Checklist" can be downloaded as a PDF at http://www.NADRA.org. With CAMO, homeowners get safer, more stable decks, while contractors benefit from faster installations that reduce labor, time and ultimately, jobsite fatigue. The award-winning CAMO® Deck Fastening System allows deck builders to achieve a fastener-free surface in less time than traditional methods. Combining CAMO's tools and fasteners like the DRIVE™ stand-up fastening tool, LEVER® board bending and locking tool and Universal Deck Clips help contractors complete safe deck installations up to 5X faster. Learn more at http://www.camofasteners.com. #decksafety #deck_safety

With the right tools, coloring and texturing techniques, the walls of your home can become works of art. Gian Carlo Sagasti, founder of Exotic Wall Finishes & Design, uses Venetian Plaster to create beautiful art pieces on interior walls. According to Gian, the goal is to leave your walls looking “sexy,” using a number of decorative wall finishing techniques, including Marmorino, Venetian Plaster, Faux finishes, Lime Paint and Lime Washes, offering matte or textured finishes, shiny polished finishes, and more. Venetian plaster is lime plaster mixed with marble dust, applied as a decorative finish to walls or ceilings using a trowel in thin, multiple layers with a single color which, when compressed and burnished, produces different colors or shades to achieve an artistic effect. The burnishing process creates a smooth surface with the illusion of depth and texture. Marmorino is a lime-based plaster used for both interiors and exteriors. It can be finished in an elegant matte finish or the traditional shiny Venetian plaster finish. The natural composition of Marmorino makes it mildew resistant and waterproof, and its visual effect makes it a great alternative to marble and ceramic tiles. Application Basics Venetian plaster can be applied to most walls and ceiling surfaces that are flat and smooth. Although porous surfaces work best, modern Venetian plasters contain polymers that adhere to well-prepared drywall. Any cracks or holes in the wall surface should first be filled and sanded. The surfaces should then be primed or covered with flat, water-based paint before you apply the Venetian plaster. Lime-based plasters will require a special primer to protect the walls. Venetian plaster is sold in home centers and paint-supply stores, or online from many retailers. Some products are sold pre-tinted, but others require additives to achieve your preferred color. Ask or search for ‘Authentic Venetian Plaster’ to find the best materials. The first thin layer of plaster is typically applied to a wall using a flexible steel trowel similar to a drywall knife. Beginning at one corner of the wall, apply a thin coat of plaster while working the trowel at a 15- to 30-degree angle to the wall. Apply the plaster with strokes that vary in length and angle for a natural appearance. You’ll want to keep the surface fairly smooth, and the differentiation between layers will help add to the appearance of depth and texture. Clean the trowel frequently to prevent dried plaster from disrupting your finish. Let the plaster dry thoroughly (at least four hours) before applying the second coat, just like the first. For a smooth finish, use the same color of plaster for the second and third coat, but hold the trowel at a 30- to 45-degree angle to apply a thinner layer. Use overlapping (X-shaped) strokes to thoroughly cover the surface and remove any high spots. You can achieve a highly polished look by burnishing this third last layer as you go, every 3-4 feet. Burnishing is accomplished by using a well conditioned, high-grade stainless steel trowel in long strokes and with steady pressure to compress and polish the surface as it dries. Add protection to the Venetian plaster surface by applying a top coat. Choose a product that is specifically recommended for whatever brand of plaster you applied. The top coat is often applied with a trowel soon after the plaster has dried. Paste wax used as a top coat can create a sheen and add protection. You can then buff the surface with a clean white cloth or even an electric buffing tool. A smooth finish isn’t the only option, however. You can use full a range of tools to create certain textured finishes, from rollers with different patterns and notched trowels for a “drag effect” finish—even tools to create a “crocodile skin” appearance. The best way to improve your skills is to purchase some drywall and experiment with various textures, colors and finish techniques before you apply them to your home. Gian Sagasti has been applying Venetian plaster since 2003 and demonstrates his application techniques through a huge catalog of online videos available on YouTube and Instagram. If you’d like to learn more about applying Venetian plaster, check out Gian’s free how-to videos on YouTube by searching: “Venetian plaster, Exotic Wall Finishes Gian Sagasti.” Plus, Gian’s website offers all the application tools you’ll need to get started at Exoticwallfinishes.com. #accentwall #venetianplaster #marmorino #walldecor #interiordecor