(guest post by Will Chelak) Joe Wixom “loves wood.” As the president and CEO of Fetzer Architectural Woodworking in Salt Lake City, Utah, Wixom has spent the past six years heading one of the nation’s largest millwork firms and a company that grew from a small cabinet shop in the early 1900s to a leading producer of exceptional woodwork found worldwide. “Fetzer is renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship and stunning architectural results,” says Wixom. “In business for more than 100 years, we pride ourselves on meeting the prestige demands of exacting woodworking projects. Our work can be found everywhere from high-end public facilities and retail shops to the world’s most luxurious resorts and performing arts centers.” As a result, Wixom not only understands fine woodworking, but also the aesthetic value of the materials needed to achieve a project’s beautiful look and feel. This was apparent when Wixom’s dream home became available in the Millcreek Canyon section of Salt Lake City, a neighborhood where he grew up and is now recognized as one of the best places to live in the state. “We spent six years looking for the right house,” explains Wixom. “Then we found the split-level home of our dreams in an area known for its hiking, skiing and magnificent scenery located at the base of the beautiful Wasatch Mountains.” In addition to the locale, Wixom also envisioned a very specific look for his new 3,200 sq. ft. four-bedroom family home. This entailed “gutting the structure down to studs” and then rebuilding it with a new roof; high-efficiency, metal-clad windows; horizontal vertical grain interior walnut paneling; walnut floors; and the exotic, reddish-brown and amber tones of IPE Brazilian Walnut decking, fencing and horizontal shiplap siding. “Being in the business for years, I grew to love the exquisite, lustrous quality of IPE wood,” explains Wixom. “It’s timeless, rustic feel can provide a cozy, comfortable feel to just about any home, while remaining as strong as nails for decades and naturally resisting fire, insects and other potential problems.” But even with his wide-reaching industry connections, Wixom found it difficult to find a reliable supplier of high-quality IPE wood products. That was until he found Nova USA Wood Products online at www.novausawood.com. “Our company buys tens of millions of dollars of lumber and veneer a year,” says Wixom. “But none of our existing vendors could meet my home needs. After a thorough search, Nova USA Wood provided the best collection of high-grade IPE wood at an extremely competitive price. Plus, the process from order to delivery could not have been smoother. I even asked Fetzer’s purchasing team why we weren’t doing more with this company.” Through Nova USA Wood, Wixom purchased 1200 feet of IPE as well as the company’s ExoShield Wood Stain and ExoClad Rainscreen QuickClips. The process then began with the pre-treatment of the IPE boards with ExoShield’s Walnut Wood Stain and a mockup of the siding installation in Wixom’s backyard. Once the installer was familiar with the guidelines, the IPE shiplap siding and soffits were fastened with the ExoClad Rainscreen QuickClips. “The installer had never worked with IPE before so we decided to sample the project before starting,” offers Wixom. “We couldn’t have been more impressed with the fit and finish of the ExoClips. They worked perfectly and the ExoShield really brought out the wood’s stunning reddish-brown hues. Everything turned out absolutely beautiful.” Using a proprietary blend of Tung oil, UV blockers, fungicide, and trans-oxide pigments, ExoShield Wood Stain was specifically-designed by Nova USA Wood to provide long-lasting, superior protection for exterior decking, siding and outdoor furniture, while creating a naturally durable finish with exceptional color stability. In addition, the company’s ExoClad Rainscreen QuickClips were developed to accommodate the natural swelling and shrinkage of wood siding throughout each of the four seasons. This includes expanding when the wood swells and compressing back into its original form when the wood dries out and shrinks to prevent the siding from buckling or the clip from breaking. Once completed, the next phase involved the construction of 140 linear feet of fencing and a 1,650 sq. ft. deck built entirely with IPE. Applied to both were two thick coats of ExoShield Walnut with a roller, which were then wiped down with a foam brush a few minutes later to “sop up the excess.” “We had 100-degree days in July and zero-degree ones in December and January. But a year later, everything still looks great,” adds Wixom. “The spacing and gaps on the siding are the same as when they were first installed. Plus, the ExoShield Walnut looks as vibrant as the day it was applied. “Another benefit surrounded the IPE wood itself. The ratio of board waste was far less than we’re commonly accustomed to seeing during a traditional lumber buy. That said, the quality of the products supplied by Nova USA wood could not have been higher. And that’s the opinion of someone who really knows this business.” Learn more about Nova USA Wood Products at www.novausawood.com or call 503-419-6407.

How have home trends evolved in the wake of the pandemic? Whether you’re thinking of giving your home a makeover or you’re in the market for a new home, Homes.com has published a forecast of trends for 2021 that reflect an evolving lifestyle. “Grandmillenial” and “Cottagecore” home styles will take focus. According to the article, Cottagecore is “taking the feel of living the life in a cottage out in the country, but bringing that vibe to our homes no matter where we live. Cottagecore is also centered around a cozy feeling focusing on the simpler pleasures of living.” Characteristics include softer colors, functional décor, with lots of accents and textiles. The Grandmillenial style incorporates all the “comforts of grandma’s home,” including vintage touches, patterns, nostalgia, but adding a touch of modern vibes of bold colors, coordinating patterns, “or even the soft touch of a velvet couch.” The open-floor design so popular prior to the pandemic is now being reconsidered for 2021. According to the report. “Now that more members of a family are working or learning from home, having enough spaces for everyone to have quiet, and less distractions is key, especially during video conferences. … Dining rooms during the day function as work spaces, while at night they transform back to a place to enjoy dinner together. Even home offices are getting a major facelift due to the shift in need. … Basements are gaining popularity, especially building them out to be something other than storage.” Read the entire article HERE.

Planning to upgrade your doors? You have many options. If you take a moment to think about the number of doors you pass through each day, you’ll realize what a major component of a house they are. Doors are usually sold in standard sizes, although custom orders are also available. When selecting a door, pay particular attention to the direction the door opens, which greatly affects the flow of traffic in and out of the doorway. Entryway Also called entry doors, exterior doors have a solid core and are typically wood, fiberglass, or steel. Most modern entryway doors are insulated and sold as pre-hung units with the jamb already attached, or as slab doors with no framing. Common styles include panel doors, windowed doors, carved wood and more—the decorative possibilities are endless. Entry doors often have a transom (window above the door) and/or sidelites (windows at the sides). Go Inside Interior doors usually have a hollow core, weigh and cost less, and have no need for insulation. Also sold as slab or pre-hung versions, these doors also come in many different styles. Flush and paneled doors are popular, and the way the door opens varies beyond the standard side hinges. Pocket doors slide into a wall to be concealed when open. Double doors are often used for closets or to partition rooms, and can be configured as bi-fold doors, bypass doors that slide over one another, or fresh doors with inset window lites. These days, barn-style sliding doors are popular for interiors. They attach to hardware at the top of the door which mounts on a wall to slide along a track. Add Another Door Storm and screen doors are secondary exterior doors mounted to a metal frame that allow light and/or air into the home when the main entry door is opened. Storm doors are sold in a wide range of paint colors, handle options, and glass designs. Installation requires little more than a screwdriver to fasten the frame flanges to the casing of the doorway.

Check out this cool infographic that explores the latest material and design trends in residential roofing!

Several factors impact the overall cost of replacing your home’s roof. These factors include home size, pitch of the roof, the roof's complexity, local labor rates, and your preferred roofing materials. Home Size. Home size accounts for the home’s square footage plus any garage or outbuildings that will get new roofing (which is typically not included in the home’s square footage). Home size also considers the number of levels (stories) the home, which impacts the installers’ safety and accessibility. Slope and Pitch of Roof. The steepness of your roof will impact the amount of materials needed, and may impact the cost of your installation. The steeper the roof pitch, the higher the cost of your project. The complexity of your roof will also impact the amount of materials needed. Lots of hips, valleys, dormers, etc. will increase the installation cost. Roof Materials. There are advantages and disadvantages to each roofing material in regard to cost and performance. Asphalt shingles are the most affordable roof material at $1.50 to $5.50 per sq. foot. On an 1,800 sq. ft home, roof replacement costs from $4,286 to $6,429 for three-tab asphalt shingles or $6,543 to $12,672 for architectural asphalt shingles (warrantied to last much longer). Compare that cost to a new metal roof, which can run from $32,394 to $48,592 on the same size home. [based on 2019 data collected across the United States.] Local Labor Rates. When estimating a price for roof replacement, there will also be regional price differences in materials, labor and other marketing factors. That’s a lot of information to calculate when exploring your options, however, you can help simplify the estimation process by using the free online Roof Replacement Calculator at Modernize.com. Your estimate will based on data from thousands of residential contractor projects, completed across the United States in 2019. This data was provided by RSMeans data, a cost database used by construction professionals to create budgets; estimate projects; and validate material, equipment, and labor costs. It’s simple and quick to use, basing your estimate on a simple survey of just a few questions about your home (square footage, preferred roofing materials, etc).

When installing baseboards or crown molding, joining two 45-degree miters may give you a 90-degree joint, but a square joint may not work well for corners that are out of square. Even a perfect miter joint can end up developing gaps when the wood dries and contracts in winter. Unlike miter joints, cope joints have one trim piece butted against the adjacent wall at the corner. The joining trim piece is carefully cut to nest against the profile of the first. These joints work better for out-of-square corners and are less likely to reveal a gap when the wood shrinks. STEP 1: Butt the first piece of molding into the corner and fasten in place. STEP 2: Cut the second piece of molding just a few inches longer than its final length. Then, on the intersecting end of the second piece, cut a 45-degree inside miter. STEP 3: Use a carpenter’s pencil to darken the edge of the mitered profile for better visibility. STEP 4: Clamp the second piece of molding to a work surface and use the coping saw to cut along the pencil line. Angle the blade to back-cut the molding. Keep the blade about 1/16 inch to the waste side of the cutline. STEP 5: When most of the wood is removed, use a file or sanding block to finish the cut and clean up the profile, revealing a shaped edge that will be the only point of contact between the intersecting pieces of molding. STEP 6: Test-fit the molding against the first piece and make adjustments as necessary. Nail the molding into place and finish off by caulking the seam. STEP 7: Proceed around the room to complete the installation, using the installation sequence shown in the diagram. #homeimprovement #homeimprovements #homeimprovementprojects #doityourself #diyprojects #trimwork #trimcarpentry #howto #interiordesign #interiordecorating #tipsandtricks #bathroomdesign #bathroomremodel #kitchenremodel #magazine #hirpub #repair #diy #diyhomedecor #diyhomerepair #diyhomerenovation #remodel #renovation #hirpub #copejoint #basemolding #baseboard #crownmolding #birminghambuilder

My five-year-old son Miller is our family’s master of disaster. True to form, Miller decided to sneak away during a family get-together to play with a scented candle burning in the bathroom. He first thought it would be a good idea to melt a plastic fork over the flame, then got scared when the fork lit up, so he covered it and the candle with a nearby towel, which in turn caught on fire. We quickly smelled the smoke and prevented a tragedy. The bathroom countertop, however, suffered an ugly third-degree burn that discolored it badly. Hopefully, Miller learned a lesson. Countertop Repair Options You can completely replace a countertop, but that can get expensive, depending on your material of choice and whether you DIY or hire an installer. Another option is to cover the surface in tile, a material that offers a wide range of looks and patterns. For the project shown, tile was not the best choice because of the contours involved with the integrated sink of this single-piece vanity top. Recoating the top sounds like a good idea, but you can’t simply paint a countertop, or the regular wear and tear of usage will damage the paint in short order. You’ll find a few different countertop coating kits on the market, and I’ve used some of them with varying results. I tried a kit based on a faux painting technique meant to mimic the look of granite, but the end result was not at all convincing. I’ve also tried the Rustoleum Countertop Transformation Kit and found greater success with its durable coating on flat surfaces (less so on 90-degree corners). The Rustoleum kit, however, relies on plastic chips to approximate a stone finish, and while the end result was an improvement, it did not really look like natural stone. I then learned of a countertop product called Spreadstone that incorporated genuine stone into the coating material. Maybe real stone had been the missing ingredient to get the look I wanted. I contacted the manufacturer Daich Coatings with a few questions—most importantly: Would the Spreadstone coating erode over time from running water if I used it to coat the sink? The manufacturer reps ensured me the coating would hold up, so I took them at their word. Here’s how I applied the Spreadstone product to give an old countertop a new look. Surface Prep First, patch any deep cracks or holes in the countertop surface with drywall spackle. Any wood or concrete countertop surface needs to be sanded free of any pre-existing coatings. For laminate countertops, the surface should be thoroughly scuffed with the 80-grit sandpaper included in the kit, which gives the surface “tooth” for a better adhesive bond with the Spreadstone product. To give the new countertop coating a seamless appearance, I recommend removing the faucet and sink drain to prep and coat the surface beneath. Once sanded, thoroughly clean the surface of sanding dust using soap and water, then rinse and allow it to dry completely. Base Coat The Spreadstone Mineral Select Kit includes the brush, paint tray, roller and roller-covers required for the job. As with any painting project, use masking tape and plastic or drop cloths to protect any surrounding areas during application of the new finish. The first component is the base coat, which should be mixed well prior to use. Use the brush to apply it to corners, edges and tight areas. (Wash the brush with soap and water after each use so you can use it on later phases of the project.) Use one of the kit’s 4-inch rollers to apply a thin, uniform base coat to all flat areas of the countertop. Wash the roller in preparation for a second coat to be applied after the first has dried to the touch (approximately 30 minutes later). Apply the second coat to eliminate any “see through” of the underlying countertop surface, then allow the base coat to dry for a couple hours. Stone Coat Before applying the second component, it’s important to use a paint stick to thoroughly mix the stone material evenly into the product because its weight makes it settle at the bottom of the can. Use the brush from the kit to dab (rather than brush) the Stone Coating along edges, corners and tight areas of the countertop. For the large, flat surface, first saturate one of the 4-in. rollers with the Stone Coating in the paint tray, then apply it in a continual “X pattern” over the entire surface. Roll the edges of the countertop downward. To distribute the texture evenly throughout the surface, push the stone material around using varying roller pressure until you get the look you want. Once you’re satisfied, roll the wet material a few times with even pressure to flatten any buildup. Wash the roller with soap and water and allow the stone coat to dry for two hours. Next, apply a second coat just like the first. Spot-apply the coating to even out thin areas. Roll the entire surface evenly then allow it to dry for 24 hours. Once the stone coating is completely dry, sand it with the 120-grit sandpaper included with the kit and clean away all sanding dust with a damp cloth. Clear Coat The last component of the countertop finishing kit is the clear coat, which adds a semi-gloss finish that resists staining. First, stir the clear coat gently to avoid producing air bubbles. (Do NOT shake the can.) Use the small brush to apply the clear coat to edges, corners, etc., being careful not to let the coating pool on the surface. Coat the rest of the surface using a 4-inch roller. Roll over the wet surface a few times, but don’t overwork the coating as it dries, which would risk roughening the finish. Allow the clear coat to dry for four hours, then apply a second coat in the same manner and let it cure for 24 hours before use. After curing, cut away all painter’s tape with a sharp utility knife and apply clear caulking where the countertop edges meet a wall. Final Thoughts The old countertop now has a new texture that features genuine stone aggregate, which lends it a much more naturalistic appearance than the other coating products I’ve used. I would compare the look to a concrete countertop with a fine stone component in the mix—and a huge improvement over the fire-damaged laminate. As far as durability, the Spreadstone coating has so far performed with no signs of wear. Granted, it’s only a couple weeks after application, so I can’t say with certainty how long it will last, but so far, I have a good feeling about its long-term prospects. As far as skill level required, this is an easy DIY project that anyone can do if they follow the instructions. The actual working time is minimal, but you should take note of the elapsed cure time for the various phases of the project. You’ll need to block out about three days in which the sink will be out of service while the different coatings dry. On this project, I used the Spreadstone Mineral Select Kit in “Natural White,” but the coating is available in eleven different colors. Find out more about the Spreadstone Countertop Finishing Kits at www.daichcoatings.com.

How to Build a Mailbox that Gets the Postal Worker's Approval Michael D. from Memphis, Tennessee, asked us: "Do I need to follow any strict guidelines when building a new mailbox? The short answer is: Yep. Here's a longer answer: When planning the look and design of your mailbox, you should first check with your local municipal codes (and your homeowner’s association, if you have one) for any restrictions in your area. Regardless of where you live, a mailbox must meet the US Postal Service’s size and construction standards, which means... When designing your own, position the mailbox 41 to 45 inches from the road surface to the bottom of the mailbox or point of mail entry. Place your mailbox 6 to 8 inches back from the curb. (If you do not have a raised curb, contact your local postmaster for guidance.) Put your house number on the mailbox. If your mailbox is on a different street from your house, put your full street address on the box. When installing the mailbox, the Federal Highway Administration prefers supports that are stable but bend or fall away if a car hits them. Suggestions include a 4x4 wooden support post or a 2-in. diameter standard steel or aluminum pipe. Bury your post no more than 24 inches deep. Due to the risk of injury from car accidents, the FHA advises against using unyielding or potentially dangerous supports, like heavy metal pipes, concrete posts or farm equipment. Brick-walled mailboxes are common in many residential areas, however, so check with local guidelines for what is allowable, and use your best judgement. Visit www.usps.com for more information.

You’ve seen it many times: Brick steps that fall apart at the mortar joints. Over time, the outdoor elements can deteriorate the mortar and cause the bricks to loosen and dislodge. Broken steps aren’t only ugly, they’re a safety hazard. You can pay a brick mason or handyman to make the repairs or you can save money and make this inexpensive repair yourself. First step is to completely remove the loose bricks. Chip off the old mortar from the loose bricks as well as the existing brickwork that’s still intact. To remove the mortar, you can use a hammer and mason’s chisel, or an air hammer. Brush away the debris with a stiff-bristle or wire brush to create a clean surface for new mortar. Temporarily replace the bricks in the arrangement you’d like to reinstall them to make sure you have all the bricks you need. Soak the bricks in water and use a garden hose to rinse the damaged steps. This is to prevent the dry materials from leaching water out of the mortar too quickly, which could cause the joints to cure improperly and lessen their strength. The work area should be damp but have no standing water. Use water to mix the mortar for the repair. If you’re not experienced with using mortar, you’ll probably end up using more than you would expect. A 10-lb. bag costs about $3, but a 60-lb. bag goes for less than $6, so spring for the larger bag and spare yourself a return trip to the home center. Mortar is easiest to mix using a drill attachment, and the mortar’s consistency should work similar to very thick cake frosting. If it’s too thin, it will push out of the joints beneath the weight of the brick, indicating you have too much water in the mix (so add more powder). A wetter mix might be easier to work with, but a drier mix will achieve a stronger bond. In some cases, you might want to tint the new mortar to match the old mortar joints. Use a masonry trowel to apply a 1-in. thick mortar bed to all sides and the bottom of the brick cavity. Place the first brick and tap it with the rubber mallet (or the trowel handle) until it’s flush with the adjacent bricks. Make sure to pack the holes in the bricks with mortar so they interlock and bond with each other. Use a bubble level and/or straight-edge to align the front and top of each brick to ensure your steps remain level. Repeat this procedure for each brick. Press additional mortar into the joints with a tuck-pointing tool or wood dowel. Scrape away excess mortar with the trowel, then use your pointing tool to shape the mortar joints to match the surrounding structure. On this repair, we used the old-fashioned “mud trick,” where we mixed a little black mud collected on site into the mortar for the final application to the joints. We did this to darken the color to more closely match the old mortar of the steps. Charcoal dust also works for this. Allow the loose mortar to set until it becomes crumbly, then brush it away from the bricks with a stiff-bristle brush. To clean away mortar residue on the steps, I saved some elbow grease by letting a reciprocating saw do the work. This quick couple-attachment from Recipro Tools chucks into the blade holder. You can then use a variety of brushes that insert with a hex end, allowing you to angle the brush for the most comfortable working position. The completed repair should blend with the rest of the brick steps.

Trends in interior design have made refinishing furniture and using reclaimed architectural items more popular than ever. A budget-minded DIY’er can take an old table, door, vanity or desk and make it look new again. The applications are limitless, but refinishing wood isn’t as simple as just sanding, staining, then top-coating. Make the wrong move, and you’ll find you now have a lot more repair work than you ever expected. Here are six common DIY errors and how to avoid them. 1. Don’t Sand Plywood Too Much If you want to change the color or tone of the wood’s finish, your best bet is to remove the old coatings and start fresh. When working with solid wood, a random orbital sander can work well to remove the old finish. However, if you’re working with veneered plywood, be very careful. It might be wise to remove a plywood finish with a chemical stripper, because aggressive sanding can penetrate the veneer, expose the lower-grade layer laminated beneath it, and ruin the look of the workpiece (as shown in our lead photo). Look closely at the edge of the plywood in the photo below. See how thin the “beauty” layers of the sanded veneer are? If you sand through that veneer, you won’t be happy with the result. 2. Don’t Forget That Trim is an Option The ragged edges of this old wood desk (below) have chipped out and flaked. There’s no way to convincingly repair this on stain-grade furniture, because a liquid product such as wood filler or epoxy will not absorb the stain at the same rate as the wood, leaving the repairs ugly and noticeable. It is more likely to repair this damage with a filler product when painting the item. However, even when cured and sanded, liquid repairs can be difficult to blend with the surrounding surface texture, and the repair is often still visible when painted. Rather than hassle with filler products, consider installing new trim to conceal damaged areas around edges or joints, or anywhere you see the opportunity. Adding new trim can be easier than making repairs, it can be stained or painted your color of choice, and you can even get creative and apply your own decorative enhancements to the workpiece. 3. Fillers Only Work Well with Paint In my humble opinion, wood fillers don’t work well with wood stain. You might find a wood filler labeled “stainable,” but the problem lies with the extent to which the filler absorbs the stain, and from my experience this is always different than the wood’s absorption rate. For example, the wood might drink up lots of stain and turn a warm chocolate color while the wood-filler only absorbs a little stain and remains a light blond color, which leaves you with a visible repair patch. For dents and dings in wood, you can sometimes make modest repairs by applying a little water to the damaged wood surface, then place a soft cloth over the moistened dent and heat it with an iron. The idea is to use moisture and heat to swell the woodgrain and decompress the fibers to smooth the dent. 4. Improper Finish Sanding Those random orbital sanders with circular disks are popular among DIY’ers, but don’t let that be the last tool you use before applying your stain. The circular action of the sander cuts across the grain, which leaves tiny swirl marks on the wood surface. Those tiny marks might be difficult to see with the naked eye, until you add stain and the contrast makes them pop out on your workpiece. That’ll ruin your day. Remove swirl marks in your project by finish-sanding the surface in the same direction as the woodgrain. Use a sanding block or quarter-sheet finish sander equipped with progressively finer abrasive sandpaper, going from 120- or 150-grit to 220-grit, etc. Pro woodworkers might suggest sanding with even finer grits before applying a stain or sealer. 5. Don’t Leave Dust Once you’ve finish-sanded the surface glassy smooth, you should completely clean the surface of dust. Sweeping or dry-wiping alone is not adequate. The very fine dust generated by the finish-sanding will leave a residue that is difficult to see, but a quick wipe over the surface with your hand will show dust that remains stuck to the surface. If this remains on the surface, it can get into your stain, sealer, applicator, etc. and cause problems with your finish coat. DO NOT use a damp towel or any sort of water to wipe away the dust. Water will raise the woodgrain, and you’ll be stuck sanding again to smooth it out. Instead, spring for some Tack Cloth at your local hardware store. This product is literally a “tacky” cloth that the wood dust adheres to without the use of water. Don't Expect All Wood to Stain the Same Here’s the deal: Different wood species absorb stains at different rates. Hardwoods have tighter grain and less stain permeability than soft woods, and even within the categories of hard and soft woods, the varying wood species retain colors differently. So, when testing wood stains, experiment with whatever wood species you’ll be using on your project. If you’ll be refinishing oak, test your stain on scrap pieces of oak. If working with pine, test your stain on scraps of pine, etc. Otherwise, the color tone you expected to achieve, based on your samples, might look dramatically different on your finished project.

When it’s time to order a new exterior door, make sure you are clear on the terminology and how it relates to the size, fit and performance of the door. If you get the terms confused when ordering, you might end up with problems such as a door that has the latch on the wrong side, or a door that swings out instead inward. (I know who guy who looks a lot like me who once got the order wrong.) 1. Inswing vs. Outswing First up, know the terms “Inswing” and “Outswing”, usually abbreviated on order forms as I/S and O/S. An Inswing door opens inward to the house. An outswing door opens outward. Most exterior doors are Inswing models. 2. Left Hand vs. Right Hand. These terms refer to hinge placement, and it is critical to understand that “hinge placement” refers to the door when viewed from the outside looking into the home. Left Hand: This is an I/S door with hinges on the left or an O/S door with hinges on the right. Right Hand: This an I/S door with hinges on the right or an O/S door with hinges on the left. 3. Is the Door Frame Included? Prehung Door: A pre-hung door is a complete, ready-to-install door commonly available at home centers such as Lowe’s and popular for its ease of installation because it includes the door slab, hinges, and weather-sealed outer frame that fits into a prepared doorway. Slab Door: A rectangular slab of wood, composite or steel without hinges or other hardware. 4. Any Door can be Made to Include Glass. A pane of glass in a door that functions as a window is called a “Lite.” Most exterior doors have insulated glass for energy efficiency, but others may have beveled, silk-screened or stained glass. Glass comes in several shapes and patterns. Divided Lite: Panes of glass that are divided within the door (or appear to be). Grille: Plastic, wooden or metal details that give the appearance of divided lites, often in a grid pattern. Front Door with Sidelites: A sidelite can be placed on one or either side of the door, or both sides. Transom: A decorative accent placed above the door, which is usually available in three shapes: arch, ellipse and box. Door suppliers generally offer customizable options in which they can make an order to your specifications, including sidelites and transoms pre-attached to the door frame to simplify installation. 5. Order the Right Size. Measure your entryway carefully. Although there are some standard sizes, depending on when your house was built, you might not have a “standard” size door. For replacements, you can simply measure the existing door for the size you need. If you're framing a new door or replacing the door and jamb, you should leave several inches for adjusting and shimming the door within the rough opening. Most pros suggest adding 2-1/2 inches to the width of the door (1-1/4" on each side) and 3-1/2 inches to the height. Any gaps can be shimmed and insulated then concealed with brick molding. Door thickness is fairly easy to determine unless you have a special application. Normally exterior doors are 1-3/4 inch thick (interior doors are 1-3/8″). Doors are measured in feet and inches. A standard door measures 36 inches wide by 80 inches high by 1-3/4 inches thick. When ordering a door, this size is also designated as 3/0 by 6/8 by 1-3/4, which means 3 feet, 0 inches by 6 feet, 8 inches by 1-3/4 inches. TIP: For maximum savings on your utility bill, look for ENERGY STAR® certified entry doors.

Install a central water filter for your house and have purified water from every tap. A whole-house filter can eliminate any odor or chlorine taste and make the water safer for drinking and cooking. Filtered water can even improve the softness of hair and skin after baths and showers. At my house, we added an A. O. Smith Central Water Filter (model AO-WH-FILTER), which is designed to reduce chlorine taste and odor by over 97 percent. We coupled the central filter with a Whole House Sediment Filter (AO-WH-PRE0), which filters down to 20 microns. The sediment filter reduces sand, rust, etc. from your main water supply before it reaches the central filter, minimizing mineral buildup in kitchen and plumbing appliances. Installation Basics A professional plumber should have no problem installing the filters. A.O. Smith also includes detailed installation instructions with the filter kit, so a DIY’er with the right tools and basic plumbing skills should be able to complete the job. The filters must be installed inside the home along the main water line before it connects to the water heater. The main water source will need to be turned off to the home prior to installation. We used copper pipe to install my system right where the supply line enters the house. You can also use PVC, CPVC, steel or PEX pipe to plumb the system. A shut-off valve should be installed on the water line prior to the filters, so you can perform maintenance like changing the sediment-filter cartridges. The smaller white sediment filter should be installed as a pre-filter (after the shut-off valve but before the central filter). The central filter (the large black one) is the next component in line, and it needs to be installed vertically to maximize contact with the filter media. The weight of the tank should be supported from below, and the simplest way is to keep it on the floor. The central filter must be located indoors, protected from direct sunlight and freezing temperatures. Note: Before connection to the plumbing system, the large central filter needs be flushed out with water to remove the fines from the carbon medium. This can be done with a common garden hose. Connect the included garden-hose adapter to the filter’s inlet port and turn on the faucet so the discolored water flows through the filter and discharges from the outlet port into a suitable drainage area. The first few gallons will look black and cloudy due to the carbon fines. Once the water is clear, the filter is ready for final installation. I assume that if you don’t complete this step, the first person to shower after the filter is installed will be drenched with blackened water (which sounds like a funny practical joke or grounds for divorce—take your pick). Although we rebuilt our water-supply line with soldered copper pipe, both the filters connect to the plumbing using threaded connections (wrapped with Teflon tape). Make sure not to over-tighten the fittings, which might cause damage and leakage. Also, avoid using pipe dope, which voids the warranty. The A.O. Smith instructions permit use of NSF-certified pipe primer, glue and plumber’s tape. Want to learn how to solder? Check out our recent blog post complete with step-by-step instructions and short “how-to” videos from the Copper Development Association. When installing the water filters, use only lead-free solder identified for potable water applications. Use fluxes intended for use with lead-free solders. Avoid using ‘self-cleaning’ fluxes. Your local hardware store can advise you on the proper flux. Pro Tip: Copper pipe must be completely dry for soldering. To remove standing water from the existing house plumbing, insert a large tube and cap the end with your thumb. Pull out the straw, release water into a bucket, then repeat until dry. How the System Performs After installing both filters, I noticed a difference in the first glass of water I drank. The water is completely odor-free and has a lighter, crisper taste. The whole-house system we installed is ideal for households of four or more people, and the central water filter lasts up to six years or 600,000 gallons. The cartridges in the smaller sediment filter last up to six months before requiring replacement. Since the installation, we’ve replaced the sediment cartridge, which went in light and white and came out heavy and brown, which is a testament to the junk it’s removing from our water supply. Two thumbs up!