As I was preparing a story on installing a whole-house water filter, it occurred to me that we had not yet touched on soldering copper pipe here at HIR magazine. Although push-fit PEX plumbing connections are now making a splash among DIY'ers for their ease of use, those connections can be expensive, and many pros still prefer the old-fashioned reliability of a properly soldered pipe. Rather than regurgitate the tried-and-true instructions for how to solder a joint, I'll turn to the industry experts at the Copper Development Association, which offers a series of short, free instructional videos that demonstrate the process. -- M. Weber How to Solder Copper Pipe (2:53) -- This video shows the basics of soldering... Types of Tube and Preparation (2:47) -- This video covers types of copper tubing, how to correctly measure and cut copper tubing, and common pitfalls to avoid before soldering. Soldering No-lead Fittings (11:24) -- This video shows how to solder copper tube and fittings to the newer, no-lead, brass and bronze copper alloys as a result of the new Federal Reduction of Lead in Drinking Water Act. Step-by-step Soldering Instructions 1. Measure and mark the copper pipe with a pencil, allowing for the length of pipe that fits into the fitting cup. Dry-fitting the pipe and fittings before soldering will ensure the fittings are square and the runs straight. 2. Cut the pipe to the measured length using a disc-type tube cutter, a hacksaw, an abrasive wheel, or with a stationary or portable band saw. Be careful not to deform the pipe while cutting. Regardless of the method, the cut must be square so the pipe will seat properly in the fitting cup. 3. Ream all cut pipe ends from the inside diameter to remove the small burrs created by cutting. A properly reamed pipe provides a smooth surface for better water flow. Also remove any burrs on the outside of the pipe to ensure proper entrance into the fitting cup. Use the reaming blade on a pipe cutter, half-round or round files, a pocketknife or a suitable deburring tool. If using soft pipe (annealed), be very careful to not deform the pipe end by applying too much pressure. 4. Clean off all oxides and surface oil from the pip end and fitting cup. This will allow the proper flow of solder into the joint. Lightly clean the pipe end using sand cloth or nylon abrasive pads slightly beyond the depth of the fitting cup. Clean the fitting cup by using abrasive cloth, abrasive pads, or a proper-sized fitting brush. 5. Apply a thin, even coat of flux with a brush to both the pipe and fitting as soon as possible after cleaning. Do not apply the flux with your fingers, because chemicals in the flux can be harmful if they come into contact with the eyes, mouth or open cuts. Apply the flux carefully, because residue from excess flux can cause corrosion. 6. Insert the pipe into the fitting cup, making sure it is seated against the base of the fitting cup. Twist it slightly to ensure even coverage by the flux and wipe away excess flux with a cotton rag. Support the pipe and fitting assembly to ensure even connection around the joint. 7. Using a hand torch, begin heating with the flame perpendicular to the pipe, which conducts heat into the fitting cup. Preheat the entire circumference of the pipe to bring it up to a suitable temperature. (For joints in the horizontal position, avoid directly preheating the top of the joint to avoid burning the soldering flux.) Next, move the flame onto the fitting cup. Sweep the flame alternately between the cup and the pipe a distance equal to the depth of the fitting cup, preheating the circumference of the connection. Touch the solder to the joint. If the solder does not melt, remove it and continue heating. Avoid overheating the joint or directing the flame into the face of the fitting cup, which could burn the flux and destroy its effectiveness. When the solder melts, apply heat to the base of the cup to aid capillary action in drawing the molten solder into the cup toward the heat source. 8. Allow the completed joint to cool naturally. (Cooling with water may stress the joint.) When the joint is cool, clean off any remaining flux residue with a wet rag. Check out more instructional videos and articles on soldering copper at CDA's YouTube channel.

Conditioned air wasted through leaky doors can drive up power bills for even the most energy-efficient HVAC system. All the small gaps and unsealed joints in a leaky house can add up to the equivalent of an open window. A poor weather seal can leave a substantial gap between the door and the jamb. Can you feel a draft inside even when an exterior door is closed? A general rule of thumb: If you can see light around the edges of a closed door, you have a problem. Making Repairs The plastic weather-stripping had deteriorated around the exterior door shown in this article. The caulk joints surrounding the door had also begun to crack and detach. My first step was to remove the old stripping and carefully cut out the failing caulk bead with a utility knife. One trick to removing caulk: Use a razor to cut along the opposite edges of the bead. Once the bead is detached along the sides, the whole thing often pulls out of the joint like a rope. You can cut out the leftover material with the razor. Use a paint scraper to remove any remaining film that will interfere with the adhesion of new caulk. #1 - Start with Insulation For new installations or remodels in which you can access the interior of the door frame, take the opportunity to seal any gaps in the framing with spray foam insulation. Spray foam stops air and water intrusion through the building envelope and creates a thermal break to reduce heat loss. When using spray foam to seal around windows and doors, it’s important to choose a product specifically labeled for “Doors & Windows,” which utilizes a low-expanding foam. Standard spray foam can expand so much that it warps the jamb or frame, which can then impede the opening and closing of the door or window. A low-expanding foam will fill gaps without the problems of over-expansion. #2 - Apply Caulk/Sealant Seal all seams and joints around the construction. The more elaborate the trim is around the door, the more seams you’ll need to caulk. All these smaller gaps can allow substantial heat loss during winter, and loss of cool air during summer. Make sure to use a high-performance, exterior-grade sealant that offers reliable adhesion, flexibility and elasticity to accommodate the natural movement of construction materials as temperatures fluctuate. Remember that not all sealants are paintable, so check your product label if you plan to change its color. For gaps wider than 1/4 inch, insert foam backer rod into the gap before applying the caulk. The caulk bead will have its strongest bond when tooled into an hourglass shape over the backer rod. #3 - Install Rigid Aluminum Weather-stripping Once the surrounding construction was sealed, I still had to deal with the gap between the jamb and the edges of the door, which measured up to 1/2 inch. Hardware stores sell several types of weather-stripping, but I prefer the kind with a rigid aluminum bar lined with a soft rubber gasket, called a bulb. When attached to the jamb, the bulb compresses against the closed door to prevent the passage of air and moisture. The kits include three pieces, one for the top and two for the door sides, all of which can be trimmed to size. Use a tape measure to find the length from the bottom of the door frame to the top of the jamb. Use a hacksaw to cut the aluminum and a utility knife to cut the rubber gasket. When cutting, err on the side of too long and adjust as necessary. Position the strip against the closed door. Close the door and press the weather-stripping firmly against it. Insert the screws that came with the kit through the holes in the strip and start driving them into the door frame. Don’t tighten them all the way down at this time. Leave them proud so the weather-stripping remains loose until all the screws have been started. (Note: If installing in a metal door frame, first mark the screw holes in the weather-stripping with a pencil. Metal door frames will require pilot holes to be drilled for the screws with a 1/16-in. spiral tip bit.) Measure, cut and fasten the second strip onto the opposite side of the jamb. With the side strips in place, measure between them to find the length of the top piece, then cut to fit and install the same way. Once the three strips are in place, latch the door closed and position the strips so the bulbs are compressed against the door surface. Close the door a few times to check the seal and make minor adjustments. The oblong screw slots enable you to back out the fasteners, move the strip as necessary and then re-tighten until you’ve completely closed off the gap. (Don’t compress the bulb more than 50 percent or you could damage the gasket.) When you’re satisfied with placement, use a screwdriver to tighten the screws by hand to complete the job. A powered driver risks over-driving the screws, which could deform the metal strip.

I don't own a log home but would love to have my own. A quiet place deep in the woods surrounded by nature, hopefully near a lake ... that sounds wonderful. Hey, a guy can dream. I've never worked on log home, either, so when we got a question from a Home Improvement and Repair reader about log-home sealants, we turned to our friends at Perma-Chink to break down the options. The following is a guest post from Perma-Chink's staff of experts. - Matt Weber, editor How to Choose the Right Sealant for a Log Home Caulks and specialty log home sealants are used to keep air, water and insects from getting into your home. Many sealing problems are attributed to the caulking material itself, and most often the proper sealant was not used for the job. Basically, there are six types of caulks: butyl, oil-based, ethylene vinyl acetate, urethane, silicone and acrylic/latex. All are designed to do a specific job, and none are suitable for every application. The most frequent mistake made by log home owners is choosing a silicone caulk. Silicone-based caulks are excellent for many applications, but they do not work well on wood. Silicones are formulated for use on non-porous surfaces like metal, plastic or glass. However, wood is porous, and silicones do not adhere to either damp or dry wood. In addition, silicone caulk is difficult to tool and clean up and does not accept a stain or paint. Presently, the most widely used sealants are acrylic/latex sealants. Although they are suitable for a wide variety of applications, their quality depends on the specific formulation and manufacturer. Premium acrylic/latex sealants such as Perma-Chink, Energy Seal, Check Mate2 and Woodsman are manufactured from high quality components to perform specific tasks. They are more expensive than a tube of general-purpose caulk, but they are formulated for excellent appearance, high performance and ease of application. These materials are made to be long-lasting in specific uses on your log home. Don't Apply New Sealant Over Old Caulking An application of new sealant over old, failed caulk is rarely a good idea, even if it looks like the caulk is still adhered to the wood. It may take a little more time, but old caulk should be removed for several reasons. If caulk no longer adheres to wood, it may be because moisture got under the caulk creating decay. Old caulk must be removed to properly treat and seal the wood substrate. Newly applied sealant can only work if it is applied to a clean, sound wood surface or a compatible stain. So, if you want to use the old caulking as a backing material, you can apply new sealant over the surfaces to adhere to clean wood surface beyond where the old caulking reached. Otherwise, you should remove the old stuff. Removing Old Caulk Betwen Logs The right tools can make the removal process easy. Remember the old church key used to punch a hole into soda or beer cans? It is a handy tool to scrape out old caulk. Hook knives also work well. If old caulk is a silicone-based caulk, you can usually remove it with your fingers. Always inspect failed caulk areas for evidence of moisture. If the wood is damp, these areas should be properly treated before a new sealant is applied. When is the Best Time to Seal the Logs? If you are doing other work, a decision to make early in the process is when to apply your sealants. This decision might have some bearing on which sealant to use. One consideration is that some sealants take a stain much better than others. Smooth-surfaced caulks like Check Mate 2 do not stain as well as a textured sealant like Energy Seal. If you are planning to apply sealants to your log walls first and then stain afterward, Energy Seal is your best choice. Usually, the best time to seal logs is after Lifeline stain has been applied. The log surfaces are fresh and clean and whichever Perma-Chink Systems sealant you select will adhere to wood surfaces stained with Lifeline. If you are going to use a topcoat like Lifeline Advance for exteriors or Lifeline Acrylic for interiors, we suggest that the topcoat be applied after the Energy Seal. This gives the most even appearance over the entire wall. However, if you want to really hide the sealant and want a seamless appearance, apply Energy Seal before you stain. Now let us look at various caulking applications around a log home and select the right product for each job. Sealing Door and Window Frames When sealing around window and door frames you have several options. For either new or older log homes we recommend Energy Seal since it has outstanding elongation and adhesion. This means that as your home settles and shifts, Energy Seal stretches to maintain its bond to the wood. It is available in 12 different colors and since it is textured, it will take the color of the stain. On chink-style homes many people want the sealant to match their chinking. If that is the case, Perma-Chink can be used to caulk around window and door frames, too. Checks and Small Gaps in Logs Upward facing cracks and checks in logs should be filled with Check Mate 2. Otherwise they collect water that can lead to decay and insect damage. You need not worry about checks on the bottom half of round logs unless they penetrate all the way through the log wall. Choose a color that is closest to the color of the stained logs. If checks are more than ¼ inch wide, stuff a length of backer rod into the check to about 1/4 to 3/8 inch below the surface before filling it with Check Mate 2. The Check-Kit has both backer rod and convenient applicator tubes. For more instructions how to seal checks in logs and log siding click here. Sealant and Caulk Application One of the most common mistakes made when sealing logs is to completely fill deep gaps or checks with the sealant material. Quality sealants are made to stretch and elongate with the movement of the joinery. When a sealant is applied too thickly, it loses its ability to stretch and may separate from the wood. A good rule of thumb is that the thickness of the caulk should be approximately 1/2 the width of the gap you are trying to fill. However, sealant joints never need to be more than 3/8 inches thick. So, how do you fill a large gap? If you are trying to fill a void behind a window frame for example, Log Gap Cap foam is the product to use. You can also put backer rod into gaps. See step-by-step instructions here. The space left after installation of the backing material is called the caulking well. This caulking well should be approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch in depth, regardless of the width. This space is what you will fill with sealant. Some sealant applications have geometries that do not allow for these “textbook”conditions. But, whenever possible, adhere to these specifications for the highest performance seal. For filling in large voids or gaps, urethane foams are an excellent choice. However, many foam systems have a high expansion ratio which forces foam out of the void you are filling. It is difficult to remove. If you are unsure about your backing material, check with Perma-Chink Systems before using it. Conclusion Remember, hot air that gets into your home in the summer and cold air in the winter increases your energy bills. Water penetration can cause decay and insect nesting. One of the best ways to keep insects out of your log walls is to eliminate the openings where they get in. Properly selected and applied sealants are among your best materials for protecting your home. Use the right sealant for the job for years of protection and comfort. Call 1-800-548-3554 to request a copy of "LogHome Sealant Application Guide" for more detailed information, or click here.

(guest post by Erin Mezle) The COVID-19 pandemic has rapidly turned the “new normal” household into hubs for all family life moving the workplace, grade school, college, extracurricular activities, meals, gyms, hobbies, all under one roof. And, this seismic shift will not change soon. In fact, 82 percent of company leaders surveyed by research firm Gartner say their organizations plan to permit employees to work remotely at least part of the time even post-pandemic. When it comes to back-to-school, a recent NPR/Ipsos poll found two-thirds of respondents thought schools in their area should be primarily remote, including 62 percent of parents of children under 18. Although this new “Full House” dynamic could forge family bonds, it will also cause energy use and utility bills to skyrocket with all home technologies, appliances and systems running overtime at unprecedented levels – making optimal, energy-efficient home climate control a critical part of both keeping everyone comfortable AND minimizing utility bills due to significantly more time spent at home. The good news is that families can successfully prevent a utility bill blitz this winter by following a few simple steps. With home heating and cooling accounting for nearly half of home energy use, small steps can go a long way. · Ease Into Electric: According to Columbia University’s Earth Institute, electric systems are a solution to decarbonize home climate control. Among the most energy-efficient heating and cooling products, electricity-powered ductless mini-split systems, offered by companies including Fujitsu General America, can save as much as 25 percent on your energy bill. Mini-splits use thin copper tubing to pump refrigerant from an outdoor compressor directly into an indoor air-handling unit, where the air is qui­etly distributed to the interior space. · Get “Smart" About Climate Control: When it comes to smart home tem­perature control, there are Smart HVAC Systems and Smart Thermostats. Smart HVAC systems have built-in Internet capability and can be controlled directly without additional equipment. Smart Home Thermostats create “smart” sys­tems by enabling remote temperature control via a mobile or Internet-con­nected device or voice-operated home automation system. · Voice Your Preference: Take control of your comfort. Most HVAC manufacturers offer apps that enable systems to be controlled from anywhere using a mobile device. Voice-control capability uses digital assistants, like Amazon Alexa or Google Home, to ver­bally dictate home temperatures. Easily controlling the temperature more closely, allows homeowners to be more comfortable and improve energy savings. · Find Your Efficient Comfort Zone: Many of us live in homes designed for bigger families, but have yet to downsize. If you find yourself using a fraction of your home on a regular basis, consider upgrading to a zoned ducted, or ductless system. That will allow you to save energy heating and cooling spaces where you and your family don’t spend a lot of time. This will multiply savings as you’re not only needing less cooling but you also gain from a more efficient system in the spaces you do still use. Try Low-tech Fixes: Simple changes can have a big impact. o Capture the Sun: Even if you don’t have solar panels, you can still take advantage of the sun’s energy to heat your home. Open your south-facing curtains at sunrise to make best use of “passive solar gain.” This works particularly well if your home has stone or concrete floors, as they have a large thermal mass, meaning they soak up a lot of heat and release it slowly. Remember to close your curtains as soon as the sun dips to trap all that free heat. o Use Waste Heat: Some equipment in your home generates “waste heat” during normal operation. For example, your computer's CPU belts out waste heat that’s conducted to a heat sink and then dispersed with the aid of cooling fins and a fan. Position your workstation where you can best use that thermal energy to help warm your room, for a free heating system. o Force Down Warm Air: Denser, cooler air stays closer to the ground, and warmer air rises. So, force it downwards with a low-speed fan. Reverse the fan's setting so it sends the warm air upwards, as this will distribute it back down the walls to mix with the rest of the air in the room, gradually raising the ambient temperature. o Lock it In: Insulate and fill the gaps. Warmed air leaking out around poorly sealed window frames, power sockets, recessed light fittings, and other gaps is a big source of heat loss in homes. Use caulk, foam strips or expanding foam to seal up unwanted holes in your home. Add extra insulation to your home cheaply by layering up mineral wool in your attic. Thick curtains help to insulate glass at windows. If your windows are single-glazed, consider sticking transparent polythene film to your internal window frames to act as super-low-budget “double-glazing.” Achieving a sense of peaceful co-existence in your increasingly crowded, multi-functional home does not need to make your family members hot under the collar. If a new system is right for you, many Fujitsu systems with the Energy Star rating are more than twice as efficient as the minimum standard set by the government. To learn more or find a contractor near you, call 888-888-3424 or visit www.constantcomfort.com. ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­_________________________________________________________________ Author Biography Erin Mezle is the Vice President of Marketing for Fujitsu General America, a national manufacturer of heating and cooling systems with distributors in local communities across the country and a 20-year industry veteran.

A home’s structure settles over the years due to many forces beyond our control, including unstable soil and weather conditions. If not identified and fixed, this can lead to major structural issues throughout the home – from bowing walls and sagging floors to complete foundation failure. For home buyers, the results of a professional foundation inspection should be a key component of the buying process. Whether you’re planning to sell your home, looking to buy a new one, or plan to live in your home for years to come, it’s important to understand the key ways to spot foundation issues early. This will save you major time, money, and headaches in the long run. To identify the start of foundation issues before they grow, here are eight important things to look for: Cracks along the floors or walls, near windows or doors, or within columns Sticking doors and windows that become more difficult to open over time Gaps between windows and doors that leave openings for water and/or pests A leaning chimney Sagging or slanting floors and/or bowing basement walls Mold, rot, or mildew growing in the basement or crawl space, and a musty smelling odor A sinking front or back stoop or porch Unexplained water damage in areas throughout the home According to Realtor.com, there are three main things that cause foundation problems in a home: deterioration of stem walls foundation settlement foundation heave Your home’s stem wall sits on top of its concrete foundation and acts as the base for the home’s construction, with other walls and floors attached to it. That’s why a problem with the home’s foundation can cause cracking and damaged walls and floors throughout the entire structure. Foundation settlement is the change over time that occurs when soil beneath the home shrinks and becomes unstable. Foundation heave is the opposite, occurring when soil rises over time, usually as a result of settling in other areas. In addition, hydrostatic pressure, water damage from flooding, leaky pipes, or poor exterior drainage can also cause foundation damage. Time is not the only factor that causes the most common foundation problems. In fact, weather and soil conditions can each play a major role as well. That is why it is important for homebuyers to ask for a professional foundation inspection before purchasing a home. It may seem counterintuitive, but whether a home is new or old is not the main indicator of its hidden foundation problems. Foundation issues, unfortunately, can affect all different kinds and ages of homes. Costs for Fixing Foundation Problems The cost to fix foundation problems varies by location across the U.S. and depends on the severity of the issue at hand. That is another reason it is so important to identify the key issues that may be caused by a deteriorating or damaged foundation as early as possible. The average starting cost nationwide to make foundation repairs, according to Inch Calculator, is $3,500, with advanced repairs costing closer to $10,000. In major metro areas, the average cost is even greater – from $14,000 in Virginia Beach, VA, to $11,000 in Raleigh, NC, and $14,500 in Denver, CO, to $50,595 in Washington, D.C. Again, the severity of the damage and what types of repairs used to fix that damage is going to vary and affect the cost differently. Buying a Home? Here’s what to know about foundations If you are looking to buy a home, it is vital to understand how to identify any foundation repairs that are needed before you close on the home. To protect your investment, ask for a professional home inspection that includes the foundation. According to Trulia, many states require homeowners to disclose foundation issues during the selling process. In addition, if foundation work has occurred on the home, a warranty may be in place, so buyers should ask for all the paperwork on previous home repairs to help protect the investment from current homeowners. If foundation problems are identified, it’s important to make a plan to fix even small issues as soon as possible to prevent them from becoming big ones. Even small cracks or leaks can be a sign of a larger foundation problem and grow in scope quickly. If major repairs are needed, buyers may consider asking the seller for a reduction in price to offset the average cost in the area to fix them. No matter how knowledgeable you are on identifying foundation issues in a home, it’s best to depend on the experts before making a major new investment. A free inspection from the country's leading foundation repair experts can help you identify what steps to take to secure your foundation and protect your home (or future home). Editor's Note: This guest post appears courtesy of the foundation experts at Groundworks Inc. To learn more, visit www.groundworkscompanies.com.

Checklist: Do This Fall Yard Work Now and Reap the Benefits Next Spring (guest post by Debbi Mayster) Autumn is no time to ignore your lawn and landscape. “What you do now will determine the quality of your family yard next spring and summer,” said Kris Kiser, president and CEO of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI) , the international trade association representing power equipment, small engine, and personal transport vehicle manufacturers and suppliers. “People know to plant flower bulbs in the fall, but this time of year is perfect for mowing, mulching, aerating, trimming and patching your yard,” said Kiser. “You might use a riding lawnmower to trim the grass, mulch the leaves, or pull an aerator attachment around your yard. Leaf blowers can help corral those troublesome leaves, and string trimmers can help you make your yard tidy.” It’s important to take care of your yard, says Kiser. “After all, your living landscape does a lot for you. It produces oxygen, reduces the urban heat island effect, filters and captures runoff, improves air quality, controls erosion, absorbs carbon dioxide, and supports biodiversity. You benefit when your yard is in top shape.” OPEI offers the following checklist to make sure your yard is ready for relaxing and fun outdoor activities next year. #1 Keep mowing. Grass that is too high may attract lawn-damaging field mice. Shorter grass is more resistant to diseases and traps fewer falling leaves. Cutting the grass low allows more sun to reach the crown of the grass, so less leaf will turn brown in the winter. However, cutting off too much at one time can be damaging, so never trim more than a third of the grass blades off in a single cutting. Put mower blades on the lowest settings for the last two cuts of the season.  #2 Aerate your lawn. Compressed soil hurts grass health. Aerating punches holes into the soil and lets oxygen, water and nutrients into a lawn. Use a walk-behind aerator or get an attachment to pull behind a riding mower.  #3 Mulch your leaves. Many mowers can mulch leaves with an attachment. Since mulching with a mower can mix grass clippings with leaf particles, these nitrogen-rich grass particles and carbon-rich leaf particles will compost more quickly. Together, they return nutrients to the soil.  #4 Trim and shore up trees and bushes. Use trimmers, chainsaws or pole pruners to cut back trees, shrubs and plants. Make sure branches are safely trimmed back from overhead lines, and not in danger of falling on a home or structure in winter weather. You may need to tie or brace limbs of upright evergreens or plants to prevent them from breaking in high winds or snow. Call a professional arborist for big trees or hard-to-reach spots. #5 Repair bald spots. The easiest way to do this is with an all-in-one lawn repair mixture (found at most garden shops and home centers). Use a garden rake or de-thatcher to scratch loose the soil on the spot. #6 Ready your outdoor power equipment for winter storage. Drain fuel tanks before storing your lawn mower, leaf blower or string trimmer for the winter. Service and winterize your outdoor power equipment before storing in your garage or shed. Taking these simple steps now, will ensure that in the springtime when you are eager to get back outside, you’ll be ready to start your equipment and get to work right away.   For information, go to www.turfmutt.com .

Here are the basic steps to replace a flush-mount light fixture on a ceiling, using standard tools almost any DIY homeowner will have in their toolbox. Why pay for an electrician for simple upgrades you can do yourself? First step is to turn off the light fixture’s power at the breaker box by flipping a circuit breaker or unscrewing a fuse. Use a voltage tester to make sure the power is off. Disassemble the old light fixture. This task varies based on the fixture design but is rarely complicated. It can require removing a retaining nut, the fixture glass, and the mounting screws that hold the electrical box to the ceiling. Many such components and fasteners unthread by hand. In some cases, you might need a screwdriver or wrench. After removing this hex nut from the threaded rod, the glass feature of the old light slides right off the fixture. Next, remove the canopy (AKA box cover). It is common to find two screws in slotted holes holding the canopy to the mounting strip that's inside the electrical box. Loosen the screws enough to turn the canopy so the large holes in the slots align with the screw heads, allowing you to lower the canopy. With the canopy out the way, the wires are exposed, and you can see how you'll need to make the electrical connections when installing the new fixture. This will also reveal any discoloration in the ceiling that might need your attention later. Disconnect the wiring by unscrewing the wire nuts and untwisting the wire pairs. Remove the two screws that fasten the metal mounting strap and remove the strap from the electrical box. Replace it with the one included with the new light, which will be shaped to fit the fixture. Ceiling fixtures vary greatly in style and construction, and so do the related components and the assembly process. The lighting manufacturer will include assembly instructions for the model, and you usually only need to use a screwdriver and wire strippers to complete the job. Strip 3/4-in. insulation from the end of each wire of the new fixture. Match the fixture wires to the supply wires by matching insulation color (white wires to white wires; black to black; green insulation or bare wire indicates a ground wire). Twist the exposed ends of the wires together clockwise, securing them with a UL-listed wire nut. Ground wires can be connected to a ground screw on the junction box or joined to the supply ground using a wire nut. Install a light bulb, turn on the breaker, then flip the light switch to test the connection before installing the fixture. If it won’t light up, you probably have a loose connection. Once the light functions, protect connections by wrapping electrician’s tape around the wire nuts. Tuck the wires and wire nuts into the electrical box and out of the way. It might be necessary to install a threaded rod into the mounting strap before installing the canopy. On the model shown, however, the canopy makes use of a wider threaded collar integrated into the canopy, so no rod was used. For this light, the next step is to remove the decorative screw caps, slip the canopy over threaded fasteners that extend down from the strap, then twist back on the screw caps. Very simple. The glass feature will typically install over a threaded rod or collar, which will be held in place by a nut. On this fixture, the nut that fastens the glass feature is a decorative component of the light. Here's the light fixture fully installed and functional after we applied a little touch-up paint to the ceiling. Note that for first-timers, it’s wise to have all your work professionally inspected when you’re done with installation. DON'T FORGET TO USE THE RIGHT BULB: When purchasing a lighting fixture, check its maximum wattage. A bulb with more wattage than necessary can present a fire hazard from the excess heat. Wattage indicates the power a bulb consumes—not the light that it generates, measured in lumens. If you’re getting excess light, use lower-lumen bulbs. Editor's Note: The light fixture shown is the Harrow Flush Mount model from Globe Electric, which we purchased from Home Depot.

While raising three young kids, our house remains in a steady state of chaos, with several doors to the house being opened about 500 times a day (but closed back only half the time). Keys get lost, and messages get mixed up, and in all this confusion, we've locked ourselves out of the house a few times. I decided to put an end to that by installing an electronic keypad door latch. I can still use an old-fashioned metal key as a backup, but plan to rely mostly on a personalized numeric code which I simply punch into the latch's keypad to unlock the door. With no metal key to keep up with, nobody will be stuck outside until someone with a key shows up to save the day. Good news for DIY'ers who want to replace an existing deadbolt: This is a very simple upgrade that doesn't require any special tools or wiring. First step is to unscrew the mounting bolts of the old deadbolt so you can separate the lock assembly in two halves, which you can them remove from each side of the door. With the lock assembly out of the way, unscrew the the two screws mounting the deadbolt and pull the bolt assembly out from the edge of the door. With all the hardware gone, you're ready to add the new keypad lock. Begin by installing the new bolt assembly, which might slip right into the old hole with no adjustment. Otherwise, it might be necessary to square up the mortise in the door's edge using a wood chisel so the face-plate fits flush with the wood surface. The Hickory Hardware product shown also includes an adjustment switch on the bolt that can fit latch bore holes with either a 2-3/8-in. or 2-3/4-in. back-set. The locking assembly installs similar to the ones you removed, but the interior side of the door utilizes an extra piece--a locking plate through which the two mounting bolts pass and thread into the the back of the exterior lock assembly. The exterior side of the lock includes the keypad, keyhole, adapter collar, and rubber backing, all of which you pre-assemble and install as a single piece. When installing the lock assembly, it's important to thread the wire of the keypad under the door latch then through the wire passage on the interior mounting plate. It's also important to insert the flat arm of the exterior lock assembly through the latch while the deadbolt is in the unlocked position. meaning the slot should be oriented left to right, not up and down. Next, you'll need to connect the wire to the terminal on the back of the interior lock assembly. Push in the plastic connector until it fits snugly. Then, place the assembly over the metal mounting plate and fasten in place with the included metal screws. To activate the keypad door latch, add the batteries--four AAs, in this case. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for setting your personalized code using the keypad. The last step is to snap on the interior battery cover to give the door a sleek, finished appearance. That's all there is to it. And don't worry about dead batteries causing the lock to fail. A visual indicator flashes on the lock anytime the batteries get low, so you'll have plenty of notice to install new ones.

Replacing a countertop first requires removal of the old one, which can be a little trickier than it sounds. If you're replacing the cabinets too, you can probably demolish the whole structure at once. However, homeowners often want to keep the existing cabinet base and replace only the top, in which case it's important to proceed carefully with removal to avoid damaging the cabinets. You will usually want to remove the existing backsplash as well as the countertop. This requires disconnecting all appliances like the electrical cables of your stovetop and the plumbing connections to you sink basin. Remove these items and set them aside safely for reinstallation later. The next phase is to remove all fasteners that secure the existing countertop to its cabinet base. This may sound fairly straightforward, but depending on the counter’s method of construction, the job can get difficult. In some cases, a plywood countertop may have been fastened to the cabinet base prior to having the finished surface (plastic laminate, ceramic tile, etc.) applied to the subsurface. The kitchen shown in the photos was built with laminate countertops that had oak edging. Remove any existing edging to reveal any fasteners behind it. The workers unscrewed or pried out all the visible fasteners from beneath the countertop and behind the edging but still found the top stuck onto the cabinet base. After some exploration with a scraper and pry bar, they found the plywood countertop had been installed on the base prior to having the sheet laminate glued on top of it. If this is the case, it means there will be several areas where the finished surface has to be peeled away to access the hidden fasteners and dislodge the top. A putty knife, scraper or flat bar can be used to peel back the laminate to find the fasteners. A tiled surface will require a hammer and tile scraper. Once all the fasteners are gone, the countertop should then easily lift off the cabinet base. A number of shims are often left behind attached to the cabinet base. Pry these off to begin installation of the new countertop on a flat, even surface.

(guest post by Lynnet Kwamboka) The bathroom is one of the important rooms in a home. Perhaps the reason why most homeowners consider upgrading the bath during home remodels. Such types of home makeover projects tend to dent your savings account, but you can practice several tips to save cash when remodeling the bathroom. Besides, a DIY approach is an excellent and practical means of reducing the costs while incorporating a personal signature to the overall look. The secret to saving money is to look at the bigger picture clearly and making the right decision, depending on your financial capability. However, it would help if you remembered that one homeowner's choice of upgrades might not necessarily suit the needs of another. For instance, updating the cabinets and showers is a less expensive home renovation project but may not work for a property owner who requires a full bathroom replacement. Plan Before Your Start Many homeowners show the reluctance to work with professional home renovation contractors like architects and designers because they think it increases their expenditure. In fact, it is money well spent. A professional will help you set realistic home remodeling goals, budget and timeline, which helps you avoid errors. Especially for inexperienced homeowners, professionals can save time and money. Frame Your Mirror One of the features that first meets the eye of anyone entering the bathroom is the mirror above the sink. As the focal point, the mirror needs to look eye-catching and fancy. Adding a frame is an excellent way of adding a visual appeal to the mirror. It also helps in veiling age-related wear-n-tear along the mirror's edges. Other practical ideas for upgrading your bathroom mirror include adding shelves below the mirror to add extra storage space or adding subtle lighting around the window to eliminate shadow under your eyes and chin while adding a personal style. Retain the Plumbing System Where It Is To keep your bathroom remodeling budget on the low, it would help if you partnered with reputable home renovation contractors. Using your existing plumbing system will save you a lot of cash, and your designers and builders can upgrade the bathroom without changing the conduit network. According to Justin Riordan, relocating the plumbing system costs about $5,000, and you can save that simply using your existing system. Retain the Size and Layout of the Bathroom Changing the bathroom layout means moving some sections of the plumbing system, the toilet discharge, and the sewer system. Such works can expand your budget significantly. Rearranging objects and moving them to a different location is particularly expensive, which should only be considered if necessary to suit the homeowner's needs and preferences. You may be at liberty to alter your bathroom's layout and size, but it would be best to weigh the benefits of such a change against costs involved in executing the change. Don't Bring Down Load-Bearing Walls Load-bearing walls are built to hold the second floor and roofing in a home. Bringing down and reconstructing load-bearing walls is an expensive affair that can usurp considerable amounts of cash. Try expanding your bathroom space by relocating non-load-bearing walls, such as the interior walls that run parallel to ceiling joists. These can be removed at a pocket-friendly budget than their load-bearing counterparts. Replace Your Vanity For a seasoned home remodeling enthusiasts, flea markets, antique stores, and resellers are an excellent source of beautiful home improvement accessories. In that case, you can head out and shop for a stand-alone, rustic dresser to replace your old bathroom vanity. It's an ideal project for DIY'ers as they can easily use it for different functions: to hide their plumbing system, seal drawers, and hang towel bars on the side. Update the Toilet – Don't Invest in a New Bowl If you are the budget-centric homeowner, here is something that you need to understand: When doing home remodels, consider replacing the lid and toilet seat instead of splurging considerable cash on the entire porcelain perch. By simply changing the two tops, you can refresh your bath's look without breaking the bank. It alleviates the need for complicated plumbing installations. Refinish, Don't Replace Removing and replacing your existing plumbing connections, bathtubs, and showers requires a big budget because it involves demolitions and reconstruction projects. You need to ask yourself: "I'm I making these changes to improve the aesthetics or functionality of the bathroom?" For visual appeal, you can upgrade these fixtures by dressing them up instead of replacing them. Hence, refinish your tub with an eye-catching, protective coating or repaint the bathroom cabinetry rather than installing new cabinets. Skip Floor-to-Ceiling Tiles We all agree that tiles are an excellent home improvement material that enhances the look of any interior space. Even so, do not have the bathroom floors and walls covered with tiles. Break the tile monotony by using different materials, such as reclaimed wood panels. These come in a range of textures and finishes that add warmth and rustic character while contrasting excellently with white fixtures and other minimalistic elements in the bath. Try Installing Open Shelves The bathroom is a private room with limited space, but installing open shelves creates a visual illusion of a much storage room in smaller square footage. Using open shelves is less costly than installing new cabinets. You can add drawers and covered baskets to store your private items and undergarments. On the flip side, you may want to show off your bathroom décor, beautiful towels, and colorful soaps in the open shelves. To add an attractive aspect to it, ensure that every item and element on each shelf is clean and well-arranged. The bathroom is the first room in your home that you enter when you wake up and return home. You may want to remodel the bath, but the budget for purchasing new renovation materials and décor can be huge. The good news is that you don't need to replace it. Instead, look for ways to upgrade or dress up the bathroom elements by being creative and utilize other budget fixtures from antique shops and home improvement stores. Editor's Note: Lynnet Kwamboka is a writer for HelloProject.

Newsflash of new tools and supplies from the 'Home Improvement and Repair' mailbox! The Restorer The new Restorer is able to accomplish a variety of tasks that typically require the use of many different hand tools and power tools. The Restorer is a patented hand-held or bench top tool that can be used to buff, sand, grind, polish, scrub or clean any surface. Its design makes the restorer very balanced and compact for maneuvering in tight areas and around tough obstacles in any type of surface, flat or curved, wet or dry. The restorer can be fitted with any type of roller from sanding sleeves, abrasives to wire wheel and everywhere in between. It is compatible with all Restorer accessories. Visit www.iamarestorer.com. Perma-Chink Log & Timber Defense Make your wood look new again for siding and trim, timber frames, beams, board and batten, rough-cut cedar, fences and more. Specifically Formulated to inhibit mold and mildew growth, Perma-Chink Systems' new technology provides a semi-transparent wood stain that provides the ease of application and penetration of the older solvent oils combined with the performance and longevity of a penetrating polymer-based finish. This unique combination penetrates into the wood like an oil coating, but unlike oils, it hardens into a lattice, supporting and strengthening the natural wood fibers to protect the wood from the inside out. Log & Timber Defense allows the texture and grain to show through and offers outstanding adhesion and durability. It's an environmentally friendly, low odor/low-VOC product that won't peel or flake and cleans up with soap and water. Visit www.permachink.com. CAMO EdgeXMetal Clips for Metal Framing The CAMO EdgeXMetal Clip fastens any grooved deck board on metal substructure that installs easily by hand with the included Never-Miss Guide or up to 5X faster with the award-winning CAMO DRIVE stand-up tool, both using the contractor’s drill. EdgeXMetal Clips are one-pass fasteners that use the same technology as CAMO EdgeX Clips for wood framing. The wings of the clip fit into the groove of the board, securing it before fastening, and the 304 Stainless Steel gusset holds the boards down. The key difference between the two clips is the screw—EdgeXMetal features a drill point screw that engages in less than two seconds, rather than a self-tapping screw for wood. EdgeXMetal Clips are incredibly versatile, working with top manufacturer's deck boards at any angle on 14–18GA metal framing, including Fortress Evolution and Trex Elevations. Visit www.camofasteners.com. Pavestone Rumblestone Pavestone has made it easy, fast and affordable for homeowners and contractors alike to build a number of these desirable outdoor features with the advent of RumbleStone. These rustic-looking stones come in project kits that require nothing more than stacking stones in a pre-determined configuration to create fire pits, grill enclosures and benches. QUIKRETE Polyurethane Construction Adhesive can be applied between the stones to strengthen the finished project. Pavestone RumbleStone, which are available in kits starting at $250, can also be purchased as individual units for customized projects like patios, walls and landscape borders. Visit www.pavestone.com. Milwaukee M18 FUEL Oscillating Multi-Tool This new M18 FUEL multi-tool features three Milwaukee-exclusive innovations — the PowerState Brushless Motor, RedLithium Battery Pack and RedLink PLUS Intelligence Hardware and Software. The brushless motor pairs with an aggressive oscillation angle of 4.2 degrees and 10,000 – 20,000 OPM to deliver the fastest cut speed in the industry. This also gives users the power to make rip cuts through hardwoods and nail-embedded wood, pushing the limits of what a multipurpose oscillating tool can do. Additionally, the overall design of the tool dampens vibration to make cuts more comfortable, creating less fatigue for users. Additional features include a 10-setting dial with an Auto-Load Feature, allowing users to adjust the speed to the application, and an integrated 180-degree LED light for maximum visibility in low-light situations. With any luck, Milwaukee will send the HIR team a unit to review when they become widely available. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Whisper Mat LVT Whisper Mat LVT is a primerless, peel-and-stick sheet membrane, which reduces impact and airborne sound transmissions under luxury vinyl and laminate tiles and planks. Used where sound-control is required, specified or desired. Constructed of a 100% virgin latex rubber sheet combined with an aggressive block copolymer adhesive. Available in 30x80-in. rolls, Whisper May LVT installs quickly with easy, primerless peel-and-stick application. The product is CRI Green Label Plus Certified for optimal indoor air quality. Visit www.protectowrap.com. GelFit Stabilizer Knee Pads The ToughBuilt GelFit Stabilizer Knee Pads allow the rock-steady Stabilizer SnapShell to be removed entirely or interchanged with other SnapShells, so users can create the exact knee pad to fit every job. The Stabilizer's unique construction creates a wide footprint to the front, sides and rear. This eliminates tipping-over, creates a stable, comfortable feel, and decreases pressure on the ankles. The ergonomic gel and foam design embraces the natural shape of the knee and upper shin, maximizing pressure distribution for all-day comfort. Visit www.toughbuilt.com. Trex RainEscape Trex RainEscape is an underdeck drainage system that uses a network of troughs and gutters to divert water from the deck. It shields the area below the deck from rain, snow, sun, and other elements, providing 100-percent protection of the deck substructure from moisture. RainEscape helps the wood holds screws in place longer and allows finishing the space under the deck with utilities such as gas and electric, or even soffit lights. The product is easy to install and backed by a 20-year warranty. Visit www.trexrainescape.com. Happy Labs Muscle + Joint Salve Tackling home projects can result in sore backs, necks, fingers, knees and hips. The Happy Labs Muscle + Joint Salve is meant to be applied liberally to sore areas to aid in recovery. Each 1.7-ounce jar contains 900mg of CBD (no THC, only pure Cannabidiol isolate) as well as beneficial oils such as Coconut, Jojoba Seed, Lavender, Rosehip, and Neem to heal the skin. Each hemp plant used in the product is traced from seed to shelf, and each product features a QR code giving consumers access to certified lab tests results specific to their product batch. All CBD used by The Happy Labs is derived from organically grown U.S. hemp. Visit www.thehappylabs.com. Pony Jorgensen Cutting Rail Guide The 50-inch Jorgensen cutting rail guide and 50-inch cutting guide extension rail allow for up to 100 inches of precise cutting. Made with heavy-duty rigid aluminum for long life and consistent straight edges, the 50-inch Jorgensen cutting rail guide clamps onto work surfaces and allows for accurate cuts up to 50 inches long. Featuring a handle-locking mechanism and built-in ruler, the new 97100 series is best suited for use with jigsaws, circular saws, routers, and other portable power tools. For workpieces longer than 50 inches, the 50-inch cutting guide extension rail, which is sold separately, can be easily attached to the cutting guide, doubling the length of the cut. Visit www.ponyjorgensen.com. WORX Power Share Hydroshot The new WORX 40V, 725-PSI Power Share Hydroshot ULTRA Portable Power Cleaner is packed with more cleaning power than any other Hydroshot to date. Yet, it has retained all the portability and convenience of the popular Hydroshot line, along with notable upgrades, including a hi-tech brushless motor and re-designed motor/pump configuration. The new, high-powered Hydroshot combines two 20V MAX, Lithium 4.0 Ah, batteries to deliver pressurized water up to 725 psi. This is more than 11 times higher than the water pressure produced by a standard garden hose and nozzle. Unlike heavy and hard-to-maneuver corded-electric or gas-powered washers. It’s not tethered to a power outlet nor does it come with the fuss, fumes, mess and noise of a gas pressure washer. The 40V Hydroshot is driven by a brushless motor with electronically controlled power distribution, which increases battery run time over standard brushed motors. On high mode, the pump-driven, 40V Hydroshot has plenty of cleaning power to wash down decks, patios, vehicles, boat hulls, bicycles, gutters, siding and more. Visit www.worx.com. New Pfister Faucet Features Pfister introduces two kitchen faucets with three new features that make life easier in the kitchen. On both the Norden and Port Haven pull-down faucets, Pfister's MagnePfit magnetic docking features powerful magnets that keep the spray head firmly secured to the spout. Pfister Auto-Align simplifies the process aligning the spray head after each use by using threaded grooves subtly located at the base of the spray head that work with corresponding grooves inside the spout to re-orient the head for perfect positioning. Pfister's HydroBlade feature creates an innovative spray pattern engineered to blast away hard-to-clean messes with ease. The high-pressure water blade uses high velocity and concentrated force to cut away messes from plates, cups, sinks and other surfaces. Visit www.pfisterfaucets.com.

The HIR staff received a press announcement about a prestigious award won by a home clad with "polymeric siding and trim." Two things caught our attention. First, we actually toured the house in person last January at the 2020 International Builders' Show in Las Vegas, where it was on display to exhibit new trends in home construction. Second, what does "polymeric cladding" mean? We've seen this term used with increasing frequency by manufacturers, although not by contractors or homeowners who still tend to stick the with the traditional terms "vinyl siding and trim." For clarification, we turned to the experts at the Vinyl Siding Institute (VSI). We learned that "polymeric cladding" is an industry term--call it an "umbrella" term--which refers to a variety of materials, from traditional vinyl to solid polyash siding that cuts like wood. The category consists of recent introductions, including injection-molded polypropylene shakes and insulated siding that provides significant R-value. Vinyl siding includes hundreds of fade-resistant colors and shapes that reproduce almost all the traditional siding profiles, from beaded to vertical. Home builders can use the wide range of available styles and shapes of these exterior products to design houses in broad array of architectural designs, including Craftsman, Folk Victorian, Mission, Foursquare, Georgian, Neo-classical and more. The award was given to a Mid-Century Modern Home, "The Modern House," designed by Andrés Duany, an American architect, urban planner and founder of the Congress for the New Urbanism. The display home was awarded a 2020 Urban Guild Award in the Design Exploration category. Duany’s Mid-Century Modern Home consists of two modules combined into 1,650 square feet of living area, with a flat roof profile that accommodates 10-foot ceilings. Sustainable elements include enhanced insulation and energy-efficient mechanical systems and appliances. Natural light streams through five sliding glass doors placed along parallel walls to create openness. Four precast concrete T-rails set on a gravel bed provide the innovative foundation. According to Duany: “One challenge for today's designers and builders is finding durable modern materials that authentically reproduce the traditional materials used in New Urbanist architecture. Enter industrial polymers and composites that can replicate virtually any architectural shape, from American siding profiles to classically inspired trim. These products also provide labor-saving benefits for the builder, as these products combine the tasks of multiple trades into a single application.” Complementing the siding, manufacturers provide a rich, millwork catalog of moldings ranging from windowsills and pediments to the embellishments of classical architecture. Duany adds: “The goal with these continued innovations is to help designers and planners work within the limitations of the construction industry while taking advantage of building material innovations that add value to traditional neighborhood developments (TNDs).” Learn more at vinylsiding.org. #vinylsiding #homebuilding #polymersiding #polymericsiding #remodeling #construction #residentialconstruction #buildingmaterials #homeimprovement #architecture #homedesign