Planning to upgrade some interior trim with your time at home? Here are some tips and tricks to achieve a pro-like finish when installing new door casing. Note that these tips for concealing errors only work for paint-grade trim. If you plan to install stain-grade trim with the wood grain still visible, then you’ll really need to dial in your carpentry skills. Good luck with that. This one’s for the painters… You can reduce the number of brad nails (and thus nail holes to fill) by installing the trim with a combination of fasteners and construction glue. In a perfect world, house construction would be square, plumb and level. In the real world, it’s not. When assembling door trim, concern yourself less with perfect squares and plumb lines, and instead let your guiding light be consistent reveals. The “reveal” is the exposure of one trim piece beneath another, which gives the trim its depth and shadow lines. A combination square makes a good trim gauge to measure a consistent reveal. Shims are your friends. Uneven drywall or plaster surrounding the door can interfere with the casing laying flat. To keep the faces of mitered corners aligned flush with each other, use shims inserted behind a recessed piece to push it forward until the joint is smooth. Nail the casing securely, then cut off the shim later and hide the joint with caulk. If you have slightly uneven outside corners where the tip of the miter is a smidgen too long, you can square up the corner with a flat file. Whenever possible, mark your trim pieces in place rather than taking measurements and transferring those measurements to the work piece. This not only saves a step but also reduces errors that can happen when transferring the measurements. For perfectly flush face-frames, you can sand the miter seams smooth after assembly. Once satisfied with installation, apply a flexible and paintable caulk on all joints, then tool the joint to remove excess caulk. Fill all nail holes and miter seams with flexible, non-shrinking vinyl spackling paste, then once it’s dry, sand the repairs smooth. Here is the caulked and spackled new door casing, ready for primer and paint, which will be the final phase that hides any errors and gives the installation a nice, slick, finished appearance. #remodel #doityourself #trimwork #doortrim #carpentry #homeimprovement #interiordecor #trimadoor #trimcarpentry #DIY #interiordesign #doorcasing

Earthway 2050SU Deluxe Broadcast Spreader You’re stuck at home. You can’t go anywhere. Spring is at hand. Get some yard work accomplished. Here are six lawn-care tips from the HIR staff, for new lawns and old. Seeds—A Good Place to Start Quantity and coverage are equally important when seeding a lawn. Use plenty of seed and spread it evenly. A brand new lawn requires as much as 6 to 8 lbs. per 1,000 square feet. For an existing lawn that you want to replenish, 3 or 4 pounds per 1,000 feet should should suffice. Over-seeding an existing lawn can flesh out thin spots. Prior to spreading the seed, rake away loose thatch and debris. Use a sharp garden tool (rake, hoe, etc.) to till the soil of bare spots and thin areas 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Spread the seed in a criss-cross pattern, using a spreading device for even coverage. Even an inexpensive handheld seed spreader will get better results than spreading by hand. After spreading the seed, use a rake to work it below the surface of the soil. Then, spread fertilizer. Some products are available as a mixture of seed and fertilizer. Otherwise, follow the planting with a good “starter” fertilizer with a high middle number (phosphorous), i.e., 20-27-5, which is the most common retail starter fertilizer). Watering New Seeds For new grass seeds during the germination period, water twice a day, 10 minutes per watered area. To keep the top inch of soil moist, it’s best to water lightly often rather than deeply once a day. Seeds germinate in 2 to 3 weeks, depending on the type. Once the seeds have germinated, keep a consistent watering schedule, but account for weather conditions, because over-watering can cause grass disease. The ideal time to water your grass is between 4 a.m. and 6 a.m. If possible, avoid watering new lawns in the evening. Sodding a Lawn To establish a new lawn quickly on bare ground, sod is the way to go. Pro landscapers use specialized equipment to sod a lawn, such as a tractor with a rear-mounted sod-laying attachment which is fitted with a large spool of sod (backed with mesh) that unrolls over the ground in strips. The DIY method is to have pallets of sod delivered to the home and recruit some helpers to lay the sod on bare, tilled soil in tightly spaced rows, each square butted end to end without overlapping. Hatchets and garden tools can be used to cut the sod squares to fit around obstacles and follow the property lines. Any gaps can be filled with topsoil and seed. Watering New Sod Proper watering is critical to establishing new sod. Immediately after installing, water the lawn thoroughly so the sod is spongy when stepped on. New sod must be kept damp so the grass can take root. The sod should be kept wet 4 to 6 inches deep and watered 3 to 5 times a day during the first two weeks (depending on season). Lift a corner of the sod to determine the depth of moisture. Avoid foot traffic while the lawn establishes. The new sod should never dry out, even during hot weather. At the end of the second week, allow the lawn to dry enough so you can mow, then transition from frequent daily watering to fewer cycles per day—but don’t allow the sod to dry out. During week 4, water once or twice every other day. By week 5, the new lawn should be able to go 2-3 days between watering. Melnor 65003-AMZ MiniMax Turbo Oscillating Sprinkler Mowing Height When mowing a lawn, homeowners often set their mower blades too low and “scalp” the lawn, which can lead to thin and dying grass and shallow root systems. Each grass type has a height range that is ideal for its health, looks and resilience. The depth of the root system directly correlates to the height it should be mowed. The higher you cut the grass, the deeper the roots will grow. The deeper the roots, the more water the grass can absorb, which means you don’t need to water the lawn as often. Two types of grasses are most common for lawns. Cool Season grasses include Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass, and are most common in the Southeast. These grasses like to be mowed at a range of 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches high. Fescue looks best at least 3 inches high. Bluegrass is most tolerant to lower mowing, but should be left at least 2-1/2 inches. The second type is Warm Season grasses, such as Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede. These grasses tolerate as low a cutting as most homeowner’s mowers will cut. For warm season grasses, a home lawn looks good 1 inch hign if the yard has a smooth grade. Herbicides Pre-emergent products control weeds before they germinate. Post-emergent products kill existing weeds. For proper weed control, use the right product at the right time (for the right weed). After weeds have already emerged on your lawn, you’ll need a post-emergent herbicide, which is categorized as selective or non-selective. For example, Roundup is non-selective, meaning it tries to kill most all plants. Be careful using such products, because non-selective herbicides often kill all vegetation, destroy the nutrients in the soil, and prevent any vegetation from surviving—including any grass the chemical contacts. Selective herbicides kill specific types of plants, such as broadleaf weeds. Certain selective herbicides can control broadleaf weeds in warm season turf grass, control of grassy weeds in Zoysia turf, etc. Read the product packaging carefully to choose the right post-emergent herbicide for your specific needs. #grass #doityourself #weeds #lawncare #seedspreader #melnor #garden #watering #landscape #earthway #spreader #seeds #sprinkler #herbicide #weedcontrol #DIY #tips #lawn #howto #fertilizer #mower

We had the opportunity to test the Vosker V200 Wireless Security Camera — a system that works without Wi-Fi and interfaces with your mobile device using LTE connectivity. By using a built-in solar panel with rechargeable battery (plus backup battery), the wireless nature of the V200 allows you to use it in remote locations such as construction sites, farm land, private property, etc. The V200 has night vision capability to monitor the area with day and night photos plus custom alerts via the mobile app. The camera’s automatic motion detector activates when an object moves into view, triggering the camera to snap a photo or shoot video. The images are periodically synced to the mobile app throughout the day for remote viewing, and also stored on the camera’s SD card. When set to video mode, the camera records full HD 1080p video and audio (on the SD card only), and using the PHOTO FIRST setting in the mobile app, the camera sends a photo to your phone for every video recorded. Each Vosker V200 is built with a sturdy, weather-resistant design and includes a viewing screen for the captured images. The camera includes a pre-activated SIM card, SD card, a mounting bracket and strap. The app system comes with a FREE starter plan (100 photos/month), or you can choose from a variety of mobile security plans. During our trial, we mounted the V200 cellular security camera at a home for private security and we tried it at an unoccupied house undergoing reconstruction. Placement is optional, but in both cases, we decided the best option was to mount it out of sight (and out of reach) on a tree trunk. To position the V200 Cellular Security Camera, we screwed the camera’s threaded mounting stud into a tree trunk, then attached the adjustable bracket, which tightens at your desired angle using a knob. The strap is a second option for mounting the camera, but it also frees your hands as you mount the bracket, which is convenient when working atop a ladder. Once you turn on the camera and activate the app, the interface with the camera is seamless. The app and camera sync several times throughout the day. As we would periodically check the app, new motion-triggered photos would show up on the phone. Keep in mind that this camera is connected to no wires, nor does it need to be within reach of a wifi device. It’s a very handy way to keep an eye on, well, practically anything. The captured images are wirelessly transmitted to the app on your phone or mobile device. We were also impressed by the camera’s range of detection. For example, a vehicle passing at least 100 feet away from the camera would be detected by the sensors, and the camera would capture its image. If you ever need to examine any of the images or video in greater detail, then simply pull the SD card and download the large-format files as needed. All in all, it’s a very slick and versatile means of monitoring your home or work area without the hassle of a hardwired system. Learn more about the Vosker V200 LTE security camera at www.vosker.com. Sample images from the Vosker V200 LTE security camera: Motorcycle triggers camera approx. 100′ away. Night vision! Monitoring a house under construction. “Hey kids! Get off my lawn!” … Just kidding; they’re my kids. — Matt Purchase the Vosker LTE Security Cameras at the following links: V200 U.S.: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1SD1G3 V100 U.S.: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1RRCCK V200 Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MVN5X51 V100 Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07N1RRCCK #homes #V200 #construction #securitysystem #smarttechnology #smarthome #camera #wireless #surveillance #homeimprovement #DIY #LTE #vosker

Image from unsplash.com (guest post by Chris Jones) Smart devices are now the norm and they’re providing us with some amazing opportunities. You now have access to information wherever you are and whenever you need it. While there’s a lot of good that comes from these technologies, there are some real concerns as well. One such concern has everything to do with the Internet of Things (IoT), a network of interconnected smart devices exchanging information. Think your Alexa, voice-activated lights, app-controlled fridge, and even your home security system. As Harold Li, Vice President of internet security firm ExpressVPN, puts it: “Home surveillance technology is often viewed as an investment for safety, security, and peace of mind. But if improperly used, it can become modern peeping-tom technology instead. These devices are recording 24/7, and can easily be used to invade your privacy if they are abused. Consumers should really be asking themselves: Is my home surveillance gadget protecting me or spying on me?” So if we can’t guarantee our own privacy in our own homes, where are we free? Not in your car either. Just like any device, modern cars are smart IoT devices with the ability to spy on you. What Does Your Car Know? While you might not think of your car as being in the same category as your smartphone, tablet, or computer. The truth is, though, they’re equipped with some of the most sophisticated computer elements we have. Gone are the days of cars without a computerized motherboard. The sensors used to keep your car running are continually recording data and sending that data on to automakers and company databases. Emergency systems are invaluable when they’re needed, but when they aren’t, you’re constantly connected, and your behavior, conversations, and other personal information could be recorded without your consent. Reports show that up to 96 percent of new cars on the market are equipped with these capabilities If you’re a frequent car renter, you may be disheartened to know that some rental companies have even installed additional spyware to keep watch over their property while it’s in your possession. What You Can Do About Your Spying Car Currently, there’s not a whole lot you can do if you’re driving a recent model, and you may not have the option to opt out of some of the devices your car is equipped with. It’s best to make an informed decision before making a purchase. Find out what your potential new ride is capable of, and ask for information on the manufacturer’s data policies. Or, you can go vintage and buy vehicles without smart functionalities. But as older car models begin to age out of use, you may find yourself owning a car with spy-like capabilities. It seems a shame though, that we must pick either the latest and greatest functions or our privacy. Perhaps in the future cars will come with the option to choose and install our preferred operating system. Once we have greater personal control over our individual IoT networks, we can implement measures to ensure our personal data and whereabouts. Such measures include using an encrypted wifi connection, which is possible by setting up a VPN on your router. This is a great way to protect your personal IoT network, including smart security cameras. A VPN (Virtual Private Network) is a software that provides a secure connection for you to use the internet without compromising your device’s speed or performance. A VPN prevents others from listening in or poaching your personal information. A VPN can also serve as a proxy, rerouting your server so you can disguise your location and hold on to your anonymity. It’s impossible to avoid technology, but with the availability of other technologies, you don’t need to. Instead of trying to hide from the spying abilities of smart devices, embrace the tools that are available, such as a VPN router, to keep your data secure. Get the protection you deserve wherever you go, even if avoiding a spying car isn’t always possible. How does a VPN interface with the car or other device? A VPN is a secure tunnel between your device (or car) and the internet. In this specific case, we use VPNs to encrypt communications between the car and the internet, but also to avoid spying and throttling on the internet. You can install a VPN app on your Macbook, Windows or Linux computer, Android or iPhone phones, or even on your router. There are also plugins for Chrome and Firefox web browsers. A single VPN addresses all privacy and security concerns connected to the internet. Look for a VPN with numerous servers that can easily accommodate all of their consumers. Consider speed capabilities carefully, as a VPN that slows down your connectivity will be frustrating. A high-quality VPN service can give you the protection you deserve wherever you go, even if avoiding a spying car isn’t always possible. Here’s a good, short video that explains what VPNs do: #network #VPN #smarttechnology #security #smarthome #computer #expressvpn #technology #virtualprivatenetwork #spying #router

Installing trim around the house during your newfound time at home? Our friend Mark Clement from MyFixItUpLife offers some handy tips on how to cut and install crown molding. Check out his two-minute video below! #doityourself #crown #moulding #trimwork #homeimprovement #renovation #interiordecor #DIY #interiordesign #trim #remodeling

Here’s a roundup of the latest news on tool and home-improvement products sent to our mailbox. Powermatic PM2014 Wood Lathe The PM2014 wood lathe is touted as the most accessible lathe Powermatic has ever introduced. The new lathe brings professional-grade woodworking capabilities within reach of more woodworkers by featuring 115V single-phase power input, easy disassembly for transport, and an adjustable stand (optional). Additional features include a movable control box, digital speed and indexing readout, and anti-rotation tailstock key. The PM2014 is equipped with an inverter that converts 115V, single-phase power input to 230V, three-phase output, making industrial performance accessible wherever a standard 115V outlet is available. Consistent torque is provided so that wood turning does not slow down, even at low speed settings. The lathe handles a variety of projects with ease and precision, from turning custom spindles and table legs to crafting bowls, vases and pens. The PM2014 is driven by a 1HP, 230V motor, capable of managing large or off-balance work pieces. Electronic variable speed ranges include 15-900 RPM, 30-1800 RPM and 60-3600 RPM. Spindle speeds as low as 15 RPM with ample torque are ideal for creating intricate, ornamental turnings. The PM2014 lathe provides 20” working distance between centers and 14” swing over the bed. Visit powermatic.com. Quick Roof Clear Patch Quick Roof Clear Patch from Cofair Products is the perfect patch for homes, RVs, marine vessels, trucks, camping gear, skylights, gutters and more. This incredibly strong adhesive will stop leaks instantly and sticks to almost everything. The Quick Roof Clear Patch is UV resistant for two years of direct sunlight. Visit www.cofair.com. Black + Decker Book of Home How-To The new Black + Decker Book of Home How-To arrived at our office for review. It’s a pretty slick and hefty manual for a DIY home-improvement enthusiast. Black + Decker has been publishing how-to manuals for many years, and this new edition serves as a as a collection of “greatest hits” featuring a wide range of improvement and repair projects. The book covers a very practical selection of common fixes and upgrades, and that’s where it really shines. While not every homeowner will tackle a remodeling project, we all must face the occasional repair or replacement. From electrical work and common plumbing solutions to more advanced construction techniques and installation guidance, the manual offers 2,000 helpful color photos and 550 pages of handy advice for the self-reliant homeowner. This book gets our seal of approval. Visit www.blackanddecker.com. New Reinforced Paperless Drywall Tape FibaFuse MAX is an innovative, reinforced paperless drywall tape. The porous design allows joint compound to flow through the tape for a stronger bond, eliminating bubbles and blisters. The blue reinforcement layer features a tri-directional construction that provides crack resistance in multiple directions and prevents accidental tearing of the tape on inside corners. FibaFuse MAX can be used in automatic taping tools or by hand on factory and butt-end joints, inside corners and for patch and repair. Visit www.us.adfors.com. Gate All-in-One Video Smart Lock Gate’s motion-activated camera streams real-time video to your smartphone, so you know who your visitors are at all times. Never worry about sharing or losing keys again, because Gate lets you assign and manage personalized PIN codes for people you trust to grant access without a key. With Gate’s two-way audio, you can welcome guests or give last-minute instructions to a service provider. Anytime the keypad is used, Gate sends you a text message. The system operates on a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, and installation is easy, requiring no drilling or wiring. Visit http://go.getgate.com/pro/. Garage Gator Storage Lifts Garage Gator motorized lifts from Proslat install easily and maximize ceiling space in home garages. Once installed, all that’s needed is a click of a button by the homeowner to easily hoist large sporting equipment, Christmas trees, kayaks or other oversized items into a secure ceiling space. The motorized lifts make it easy to gain constant access to stored items without ladders or hassles. The lifts hold up to 220 pounds and are available in several options that include a range of weight-bearing capacities and utilities. Garage Gator kits can be ordered direct from the company at garagegator.com. VELUX Active VELUX Active with Natatmo, the smartphone-controlled skylight automation system, is now compatible with Google Assistant. The system allows homeowners to easily achieve a healthier indoor climate in their homes by automating when their skylights open and close to create air flow, and when skylight blinds extend for light control. Since homes are built tighter allowing for less air exchange from the outside, homeowners often breathe air polluted by everyday activities like cooking, cleaning and bathing. VELUX Active automated skylights are designed to help combat negative side effects of an indoor lifestyle, such as asthma and allergies. The system connects to an online weather station to monitor outside conditions and uses indoor sensors to monitor temperature, humidity and CO2 levels inside the home. Based on homeowner settings, the system will open the skylights or extend the blinds if doing so improves the conditions inside the home. For example, if the humidity level inside rises above the homeowners’ decided preferences, and it is less humid outside, the system will open the skylights for a short period of time to refresh the air inside. Likewise, the system may also extend the skylight blinds to block light when the outside temperature is high. With Google Assistant, homeowners can voice operate their skylights by simply saying “Hey Google, open my skylights,” or “Hey Google, close my skylight blinds.” They can also set up a schedule for their skylights and blinds to open and close. A rain sensor ensures the skylights close at the first sign of rain. VELUX Active is also compatible with Apple HomeKit. Homeowners can use the smartphone app to control their skylights even if they are away from the house. Visit www.veluxusa.com. Eldorado Stone Eldorado Stone, a Boral brand, adds a new color palette to its popular Loire Valley RoughCut profiles. The multilayered color notes “blend contemporary hues with classic, nature-inspired textures.” From the press release: “Inspired by the French countryside after which it derives its name, Loire Valley RoughCut presents a sophisticated gradient of ivories and muted creams with touches of sand and rust. The bold, hand-formed shapes of RoughCut incorporate embedded, fossilized artifacts on a roughly cleaved, pronounced face to mimic the character of limestone.” Visit EldoradoStone.com. #construction #doityourself #tool #tools #garagegator #homeimprovement #powermatic #cofair #DIY #velux #remodeling #eldoradostone

When you plan to replace window, careful measurement of the window opening is critical. To expand the size of a window requires significant reconstruction of the surrounding walls. Replacing a window with a new window of the same size is much easier. A same-size replacement is called a “pocket replacement.” This allows a homeowner to keep the trim intact around the windows. In this case, the replacement window should measure the same as the old window (or slightly smaller) but certainly no larger than the wall’s rough opening. Depending on the window’s construction, it may help to remove the old interior trim for a more correct measurement of the rough opening. If a window manufacturer offers specific measuring instructions, defer to those guidelines. Otherwise, follow these basic steps for measuring a window for replacement: When measuring the existing window for width, place the tape against the jamb and measure to the other jamb—not the stop molding or the parting bead. The parting beads are the wooden strips attached to the jamb on double-hung windows that separate the sashes. The parting bead is removed from the jamb when the new windows are installed. Replacements for double-hung windows are sold in a standard thickness to fit the 3-1/4-in. pocket between the outside and inside stop molding after the parting bead has been removed. Measure the window’s width in three places: the top, middle, and bottom. Use the smallest of these measurements to determine the final width around the window. Next, measure the height of the window, placing the tape on the very top of the sill and measuring up to the top jamb. The sill should not be confused with the stool, which is a decorative piece of interior molding at the bottom of the window. On a double-hung window, the sill is the board the sash closes onto. The sill is usually sloped to divert water away from the house, so it is important to take measurement from the uppermost point of the sloped sill to the top jamb (not a stop or parting bead). Measure the window’s height in three places—right, center, and left—and use the smallest of these measurement to determine the height of your replacement. Once you have taken all of the existing window measurements, consider deducting slightly from them so the replacement window is easier to install. Some professionals suggest deducting 1/4 inch from the width and 1/2 inch from the height, to make sure that the installer won’t try to force the new window into place, potentially damaging it. The replacement window can be adjusted using shims, and the extra space can be filled with insulation. Remember that the replacement window must fit into the opening plumb, level and square, even if the opening may not be any of these. Most manufacturers will offer standard sized windows. For a pocket replacement, order a unit that most closely matches your measurements. (Some manufacturers customize their windows to the exact measurements that are requested, so the standard sizing issues don’t apply.) Remember: If the window is slightly smaller than the window frame, it can be shimmed to properly fit, but if the window is too large, the wall will need substantial reconstruction to fit it. Measuring Windows for Replacement in Brick Metal windows are generally fastened with a flange inside the wall behind the brick. To measure the window’s height and width for replacement, follow the same three-step measuring guidelines above, but strike the tape from brick to brick to measure the window’s width, and measure from the brick at the bottom to the metal lintel at the top of the opening for the height. The brick opening may be larger than the window opening; always use the smaller measurement to determine the size of the replacement. #measure #construction #replacement #window #doityourself #homeimprovement #renovation #DIY #howto #remodeling #windows

Stuck in your house? Make the most of your time with some basic home improvements. We’ll be making regular updates to the HIR blog with project recommendations for those of you under mandatory isolation (like us!). First up…. Do you have the required amount of attic insulation? If not, add some. Insulation protects your conditioned indoor air from the outdoor changes in temperature. It helps keep your home warm during winter and cool during summer, and by doing so it saves energy, thus lowering your bills. But how do you know if you need more insulation? Home Insulation R-Values Insulation levels are specified by R-Value, which is a measure of the insulation’s ability to resist heat traveling through it. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The geographic area of your home determines its required insulation level. For example, the Department of Energy recommends that the warm, southern regions of the country should have enough attic insulation to achieve a value of R-30 to R-60. The northern, colder areas of the U.S. require at least R-49 for the system to be cost-effective. So, your first step is to refer to the chart below to determine your region’s recommended R-value. The amount of insulation needed to achieve a certain R-value depends on the type of insulation being used. Materials vary. For example, 3-1/2 in. of fiberglass batt insulation will achieve R-13, while 2 inches of rigid foam polystyrene achieves R-10. The R-value will be printed on the package of the insulation product, so you can easily calculate how much is required. R-Values of individual products can be added to achieve recommended levels. An R-38 added to an R-11 results in R-49. So, your next step will be to measure the thickness of your existing insulation and, based on the type of material, determine its current R-value. If your attic insulation’s R-value is below the recommended level, then you should probably add more. This attic’s insulation level came up a wee bit short. You can supplement the existing insulation with unfaced fiberglass rolls or with loose-fill cellulose–or a combination of both. For a new attic with no insulation whatsoever, you can rent a blowing machine to apply the loose-fill (or “blow-in”) insulation, available at many local home centers. For big jobs, the blowing machines can usually be found at the same place you buy the insulation, often with no additional charge to the insulation you purchase. But a blowing machine can have its drawbacks. The machines require two people to operate them, they can be messy, and they’re not always an accurate means of applying the product. An alternative for smaller jobs is to simply fill up the joist bays by hand with the loose-fill cellulose. This was my approach on a recent project–followed by an additional layer of roll insulation. On this project, I filled the joist bays with Greenfiber loose-fill cellulose insulation, then topped it all with rolls of Knauf mineral wool insulation. First, I filled the attic joist bays with the loose-fill cellulose, leveling it with the surface of the attic joists. Blow-in insulation and loose-fill insulation are essentially the same product, the primary difference being the way you install it. On this job, I simply shoveled it into the joist bays by hand as needed. The cellulose material is very compressed inside the package, however, so break it up as you install it to stretch the product’s coverage and to create lots of internal air pockets that will help achieve a thermal break. When dealing with cellulose or fiberglass insulation, I recommend using eye protection, a face mask, gloves and long sleeves to avoid itching and irritation. Also, when working in an attic, be very careful. If you step between the attic joists, your foot will likely plunge through the ceiling drywall. To avoid this, use plywood (at least 1/2″ thick) as a work platform to bridge over the joists and support your weight while you work. After filling the joist bays with cellulose, I had a flat attic floor but still needed more insulation, since I now had roughly 5-1/2 inches of insulation and wanted it about 12 inches deep. I then rolled out the unfaced “glass mineral wool” insulation on top of the cellulose and across the floor joists. Make sure to use an unfaced product if adding extra insulation, so the new layer does not trap moisture. I installed the rolls perpendicular to the joists so they would cover the wood framing. (Wood is not a very effective thermal break by itself.) To cut rolls or batts of mineral wool (or fiberglass) insulation, use a utility knife that has an extendable blade, and guide the cut with a rigid straight edge. When all is said and done, you’ll have a much thicker bed of attic insulation with stronger R-value to save energy in your home. Tips: If you’re installing additional insulation near the eaves of a home with soffit vents, consider using soffit vent baffles to allow the vent to stay open above the insulation for proper airflow. Electrical codes generally require that insulation be kept at least 3 inches away from heat-producing fixtures. A common solution is to nail 2x blocking around the fixtures perpendicular to and flush with the ceiling joists, which creates a small protective enclosure for the fixture. After you’ve finished adding attic insulation, complete the job by installing an attic access-door cover or insulating it with batt or foam-board insulation. #insulation #rvalue #greenfiber #knauf #attic #fiberglass #cellulose

photo © Moen (guest post by Wesley Ward) In recent weeks, Americans have been cautious when going outside to exercise, buy groceries or deliver goods to loved ones. To be extra careful, families are also boosting the cleanliness within the walls of their own homes. Some ways they can do this is by opting for touch-free faucets and trash bins or simply sticking to plastic cutting boards. A clean home is a healthy home, particularly if you find yourself stuck inside. These kinds of minor changes can help keep us healthy as we wait for this uncertain time to pass. Plus, we may just witness the dawn of a new era of cleaner, more sustainable kitchen and bath products. Smart Faucets Smart faucets aren’t just fun, they’re great for hygiene. Hands are the major carriers of germs, so imagine if you and your family never had to touch handles when you went to wash your hands. No bacteria on the handle means no bacteria inadvertently winding up on your face. You can now wash your hands with voice or motion activation. Moreover, many smart faucets can now also regulate temperature and amounts of water dispensed. That’s going to make your kitchen’s cooking and baking tasks a lot easier. “Faucet, fill two cups with hot water” — yep, that’s our reality now. Welcome to the kitchen of the future! Kohler, Moen and Delta are three brands that are wildly loved for their products, but more so because of their smart faucets. Kohler offers the Sensate Faucet with Kohler Konnect technology. Along with the touch-free activation through voice control, it has a durable stainless steel material and high-quality spray technology. Moen offers a Touchless Faucet. To turn the water on and off, all you have to do is wave your hand over the faucet. It detects objects and is ready whenever you are! Delta also has a smart faucet option – the Voice IQ Faucet. With the Touch20 Faucet, your faucet will do its job simply by voice commands. To set it up, all you need is a Touch20 Faucet, an Amazon Alexa or Google Home, a smartphone and Wifi. Undermount Sink You’ll never see an apron sink in a commercial kitchen in the United States. While apron sinks are beautiful and add a great deal of character to a kitchen, they aren’t as efficient for cleaning as an undermount sink. Why? There is no backsplash in an undermount sink, meaning your messes fall right into the drain. In a typical sink, the backsplash creates a hard-to-reach place that will almost certainly be overlooked when you have to clean the kitchen before you run to the bank, pick up kids, go to work, or do any of the other many activities you have to do every day. Kohler offers a number of undermount sinks for the kitchen, but deciding on one all comes down to your style and material preference. If you like the look of a stainless steel sink, then this Kohler Strive 32″ Undermount Sink is a great option. The double bowl is sleek and allows for an accessible and versatile workspace. Or, if you prefer the look of cast iron, consider the Deerfield 33″ Undermount Sink. Not only is the cast iron material recycled, but it’s so durable that it won’t chip. Hands-free Garbage Can What do we do with all our contaminated paper towels and rags? We throw them in the garbage, right? You wipe up that raw chicken juice into your nice new undermount sink and grab that rag, then open the garbage can or grab the handle to open it, then throw it away, then wash your hands. That’s usually the process. But what happens when you have to do it again? The handle for your can or cabinet is still contaminated from your last use, so you end up leaving that as a potential bacteria buildup spot for someone else to touch. Opening a garbage can with your foot is a good idea because you don’t clean up chicken juice with your foot. Hands-free trash cans are the way to go. Kohler offers a Universal 13-Gallon Step Trash Can that is crafted with functionality and accessibility. It opens with a foot pedal and has a quiet-close lid. This garbage can also has a raised liner so that the bag inside will stay in place and will still be easy to remove and switch out. Plastic Cutting Boards We all like the feel of the wood under our knives as we prepare a meal for the family, but if your first priority is cleanliness, then plastic cutting boards are the way to go simply because they’re easier to clean than wooden ones. The USDA: “Consumers may choose either wood or a nonporous surface cutting board such as plastic, marble, glass, or pyro ceramic. Nonporous surfaces are easier to clean than wood.” Kohler offers the Bakersfield Polyethylene Cutting Board, which is a great, dishwasher-safe option. Good Lighting Adequate lighting makes cleaning easier. Low light means low sight, which enables bacteria buildup. Consider your lighting as insurance that you will see all those hidden spots that you would have otherwise missed. While this seems obvious, run an experiment in your own kitchen where you clean it during the peak of sunlight and then another time in the night just by artificial light. Most likely you’ll miss spots that were as clear as day when you do it with artificial light at night; hence the importance of making sure your rooms can be fully illuminated. [Wesley Ward is VP, Marketing & Merchandising for Hausera] #smarthome #coronavirus #hausera #handsfree #moen #kohler #kitchen #tochlessfaucet #covid19 #undermountsink

The Ridgid Faucet and Sink Installer Tool is a must-have for serious DIY plumbers–or pros, for that matter. For you DIY’ers out there who work on your own plumbing fixtures–including sinks, faucets, toilets, etc. , here’s a tool tip. My go-to tool for installations is the Ridgid Faucet & Sink Installer. I’ve had mine for many years, but I see that Ace Hardware carries a redesigned new model available for less than $25, which which is a solid investment if you do this work often. I have no desire to install any faucets without it. Its long, slim designed makes it great for working in close quarters inside cabinets.To sum it up in a nutshell, this single multi-tool includes all the wrench fittings you’ll need to get a faucet pulled and replaced. But that’s not all: It can be used as a vertically oriented tool for a vertically oriented job, meaning it twists lengthwise like a drill bit to fasten nuts, so you don’t have the handle of a crescent wrench extending horizontally beneath the sink (which gets in the way of the water lines and gets obstructed by the back of the cabinet, etc.). In fact, the Ridgid Faucet Tool is hollow with a channel running down its body, so faucet hoses can run though the rotating tool with no tangles or interference. Highly recommended! From supply valves to basin nuts, this tool does it all. Here’s a close-up shot of my older model. https://www.hirpub.com/ The fittings detach and are reversible to address all the various hardware applications required for sink and faucet installation. The Ridgid Sink Installer’s linear design keeps handles out of your way for unobstructed work. Note that this is my personal opinion, and this post is not sponsored by Ridgid (although it oughtta be). -Matt Weber #acehardware #doityourself #toolsofthetrade #tools #homeimprovement #toolreview #faucetinstaller #DIY #Plumbing

Copper has antimicrobial properties. A few years ago, I wrote an article in cooperation with the Copper Development Association about the antimicrobial properties of copper. Most folks don’t realize that antimicrobial copper alloys are the only solid metal “touch surface” materials registered by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to continuously kill more than 99.9 percent of bacteria associated with the most common hospital infections. According to the CDA, laboratory tests show that, when cleaned regularly, antimicrobial copper surfaces kill greater than 99.9 percent of the following bacteria within two hours of exposure: MRSA, VRE, Staphylococcus aureus, Enterobacter aerogenes, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and E. coli O157:H7. In fact, a growing number of hospitals and restaurants are using copper for frequently touched surfaces such as doorknobs, pulls and handles and faucet levers. Which, today, demands the question: “Can copper kill the coronavirus?” That’s what I asked the experts at the CDA. They’ve yet to answer my emails or phone calls. BUT … they’ve released a new statement on the subject. How it Works Science suggests that copper surfaces affect bacteria in two sequential steps. The first step is direct interaction between the copper and the bacterial outer membrane, which causes the membrane to rupture. The second is related to the holes in the outer membrane, through which the cell loses vital nutrients and water, causing a general weakening of the cell. A growing number of hospitals and restaurants are using copper for frequently touched surfaces such as doorknobs, pulls and handles and faucet levers. Photograph © Copper Development Association. What We Know I should preface the following by stating that there are various strains of the coronavirus, and the strain that causes Covid-19 is the the SARS-CoV-2 virus. According to independent studies, at least one strain of the coronavirus (HuCoV-229E) appears to be affected by uncoated copper and copper alloy surfaces. (citation: https://doi.org/10.1128/mBio.01697-15). From the report: “Rapid inactivation of human coronavirus occurs on brass and copper nickel surfaces at room temperature (21°C).Brasses containing at least 70% copper were very effective at inactivating HuCoV-229E, and the rate of inactivation was directly proportional to the percentage of copper.” There’s also been a U.S. government-funded study conducted by researchers at the National Institute of Health and the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reporting that the SARS-CoV-2 virus, which causes the disease COVID-19, remained viable for up to 2 to 3 days on plastic and stainless steel surfaces vs. up to 4 hours on copper (citation: https://www.medrxiv.org/content/10.1101/2020.03.09.20033217v1.full.pdf). However, the CDA cannot shout from the rooftops that “Copper kills the coronavirus” because it has a stake in products such as doorknobs, handles, drawer pulls, etc. and they would risk claims of false advertising–not necessarily because the claim would be false, but because further testing is required to certify such product claims through the heavily regulated EPA. In other words, the CDA is muzzled by red tape … but I’m free to make irresponsible claims! Currently, copper alloy materials are registered by the EPA (Reg. Nos. 82012-1 to 6) to make public health claims against the six specific bacteria mentioned above. But, considering the limited evidence against SARS-CoV-2, further testing would be required to make those same claims against the new coronavirus. Time will tell … but from what I’ve gathered, the prospect of copper’s effectiveness against the Big Bad Bug looks promising. Look, I’m not suggesting that copper knobs are silver bullets or that swapping out your home hardware is a practical way to fight the current pandemic. After all, four hours on a surface is still a long time to spread infection. I’m simply pointing out an interesting aspect of copper that many people may not realize, and since we’ll be dealing with this plague for a while, and probably more plagues in the future, then maybe we can implement this knowledge into our building plans of tomorrow. — Matt Weber #antimicrobial #copper #covid19 #SARSCoV2

Bernzomatic Trigger Start Propane Torch A hand-torch has a hundred uses, from home-improvement projects and metalworking to pipe soldering and mechanical maintenance. But which torch is the best choice for the job? For DIY’ers, a “Multi Use Torch” like the Bernzomatic TS3500 is a versatile tool well suited to a variety of tasks, including light soldering, lighting grills, loosening rusted bolts and softening putty or paint. It features an automatic ignition that instantly ignites the flame without the hassle of a spark lighter. A professional contractor might prefer the TS8000 Max Heat Torch, which works well for heavy-duty tasks. Its ultra-swirl flame provides maximum heat for large diameter soldering or brazing, and it has a durable cast aluminum body that’s built to last. Which Torch Fuel Works Best for your Project? Butane: For small detail jobs, butane is well-suited for soldering electronic circuits, heat shrinking and jewelry design and repair. Propane: This traditional standby fuel is ideal for small soldering jobs, softening putty or paint and loosening rusted bolts. MAP-Pro™: Designed for larger, hotter jobs such as soldering large diameter copper pipe, brazing or heat-treating. Oxy/MAP-Pro: These torches are hot enough to weld and cut thin metal. Want to learn more? Check out this video: #MAPPgas #soldering #propane #MAPPro #bernzomatic #handtorch #OxyMAPPro #butane