Any imperfection you can see from five feet away in normal lighting should be scraped or spackled, then sanded. The key to a successful paint project is preparation, so don’t skip these steps. Clear away items that will get in the way of your prep work and painting (switch plate covers, window treatments, etc.) and store them along with their respective fasteners. Protect all interior surfaces in the room with drop cloths. Paint doesn’t stick well to dirty walls. Before your paint, you should clean the surface free of dust and debris using a dust mop. For heavy oil or smoke damage, wash with a moderate amount of soap and water then allow to dry. Surfaces with a high-gloss sheen might make it tough for the new coating to stick. Scuff-sand gloss with light sandpaper, then wipe away dust with a damp cloth and allow the surface to dry before painting. Any imperfection you can see from five feet away in normal lighting should be scraped or spackled, then sanded. Keep in mind that vinyl spackling or lightweight joint compound used as repair filler will likely shrink as it dries and require reapplication before painting. Sand all repairs for a smooth finish, then vacuum up any dust and debris. Prime the repairs by spot-coating them with the same paint you’ll be using for the top coat. If you’re prepping a bathroom with existing mildew, apply a 3:1 mixture of water and bleach to the infected area (plus a 1-ft. margin). Allow the bleach to work for 20 minutes then rinse off with clean water. Rinse the bleach thoroughly, otherwise the bleach can leave a film on the surface that will prevent the paint from bonding. To Tape or Note If you plan to use painter’s tape, consider painting the trim first and the walls or ceiling afterward (because it’s easier to tape off the trim than to tape off the walls). Use a putty knife to smooth the tape after you apply it to any wood trimming. Burnishing the tape will stop paint bleeding at the edges. If you have window grids, don’t worry about taping each window square; just use a razor blade to scrape away stray paint left on the glass (interiors only!). Skip the painter’s tape? Many pro painters bypass the tape to save time because over the years they’ve developed the finesse to cut in the edges of a paint project free-handed. “Cutting in” is painting a straight line that separates two colors using only the paint brush, without masking. You often see it at the edge where a wall color is cut into a different ceiling color. As HIR‘s painting expert, Richard Hamilton of Home Fix Up, explains, “Tape still has its place, but I mainly keep it handy for tight areas.” Conditioning Professionals will often condition latex paint to help it flow. Although manufactured paint conditioners are available at paint stores, you might find success by thinning your paint with a 1:10 ratio of water to paint to improve its workability and achieve a smoother finish. You should also pre-condition your paint roller. First step: Use a strip of painter’s tape to like a lint roller to remove any fuzz or loose fibers from the dry nap. Second: Dampen the roller nap before use, then spin the water out to facilitate the “paint load.” This extra step eliminates dry rolls and minimizes lint and particles that can be transferred onto the paint. Pre-condition your paint roller by dampening the nap before use, then spin the water out to facilitate the “paint load.” BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! Be sure to check out the other two articles in our painting series: Interior Painting: Application with Brush and Roller Interior Painting: The Planning Phase #homedecor #paint #doityourself #homeimprovement #interiordecor #Painting #DIY #paintingtips #interiordesign #howto #remodeling #painttip

Check out our new digital magazine at HIRpub.digital! The HIR team got a close look at the features that make U2 Fasteners so strong and reliable, such as the Tapper Point, Talon Grip, Reamer Thread, and Tight Star Recess System. Visit U2Fasteners.com. @u2fasteners DeWalt expands the XTREME Subcompact Series tools to six compact brushless 12V MAX* tools, including a cordless screwdriver, impact driver, hammer-drill, one-handed reciprocating saw and more. Visit www.dewalt.com. The SinkLink from MR Direct is an easy way to install an undermount sink into any laminate countertop. The SinkLink acts as a secure barrier and keeps any liquids from passing through, creating clean-cut finish. Visit www.mrdirectint.com. Pfister’s Top Pfit faucet installs in 30 seconds! Visit www.pfisterfaucets.com. Re-U-Zip is a reusable dust-barrier system with the option of a magnetic “zipper”. Visit www.reuzip.com. The Muro Auto Feed screw system let’s you screw down subfloors and decking from a standing position. Visit www.muro.com. Low-maintenance deck boards used as cladding from Fiberon. Paint PVC a dark color without it deforming in sunlight? AquaSurTech OEM says you can! Visit AquaSurTech-OEM.com. AdvanTech subfloor adhesive strengthen the installation and prevents deflection in the subfloor panels. Visit www.huberwood.com. Metal deck and stair framing system from Fortress Building Products. Visit fortressbp.com. Someone at the Royal Building Products booth is checking out our new website at HIRpub.com! Lightweight and portable, the Murphy Ladder can fold up and store in your broom closet or pantry, ready for use in a moments notice. The new model works as an 11′ straight ladder and 5’6″ A-frame ladder all-in-one. The Murphy Ladder is also available in a 7′ and 9′ version. Visit www.murphyladder.com. Simpson Door Company can make practically any custom wooden door you can imagine. #cabinetry #pfister #IBS #construction #stairs #internationalbuildersshow #fasteners #faucet #PVC #dewalt #screws #house #Painting #IBS2020 #decks #remodeling #powertools #onlyatibs

Electrical work can be a dangerous aspect of DIY home improvement. Follow these 10 tips for best safe practices when working around all things electrical. Analyze Your Home’s Electrical System Every home differs in layout and design, and the electrical system is no different. Learn how yours is laid out, including the number of circuits you have, what the amps are, and your system’s available load capacity. Figure out which breakers trip which circuits and label them clearly. Knowing how to navigate your electrical system helps to correctly identify problems and allows you to work more safely. Review the Safety Codes in Your Area Electrical work is regulated by Federal, state, and local safety codes, including acceptable practices, material requirements, as well as permits and licenses. Find out exactly what codes are relevant to your area, and follow them carefully to pass any future inspections. GFCI Outlets for Power Tools When using power tools, plug them into a grounded outlet. GFCI outlets are usually found near sources of water, such as decks and patios, bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms. In the event of an electrical short or overload, the GFCI outlet will trip the circuit and shut off the power to prevent electrical shock or fires. Always Test Wires before Work You know to shut off circuits at the breaker before you begin work on any home wiring, but it’s equally important to test the wire before you touch it. Sometimes the breaker is mislabeled, and you’ve shut off the wrong one. Sometimes the breaker fails, and the current is still active. Electric wire testers are inexpensive and available at any hardware store. Use one of these devices as an additional precaution every time you work on your home’s wiring. Keep Extension Cords Short Extensions cords can be handy, but extremely long cords have their own hazards. They get caught on obstacles and can cause those obstacles to topple over. Furthermore, all the snags and catches can cause the cord to bend, kink, wear or get crushed, all of which causes damage that can lead to sparks and fires. Use the shortest cord possible for each job and keep them all under 100 feet. Cut Into Walls Slowly Even if you think you know what lies behind the space you’re cutting into, proceed slowly. There could be hidden pipes, wires or circuits of any kind behind that wall, so be careful and make shallow cuts until you can breach inside the cavity and inspect the wall’s interior construction. Avoid Pipes Plumbing and gas lines are routed through floors, ceilings and walls just along like the electrical wires, and many utilities are often run through the same areas to save space. Just as you should proceed carefully to avoid wires, make sure you avoid any nearby pipes, which can be easily damaged by tools. Consider Using Tools with Insulated Grips Tools that have insulated grips look and function like ordinary tools but have a handle that will protect you from electrical shock. If you plan on working with wiring on a regular basis, they can be smart investment in keeping you safe. Work with Safety Devices Power tools can occasionally fail, and in some cases that failure can cause a shock or even start a fire. One precautionary measure is plug your tools into an electrical safety box when working. If your tool trips the device, it should be serviced by a professional to determine the problem before you continue to use it. Know When to Call a Pro Electrical work often falls into a gray area for the DIY skill-set with some jobs being fairly simple and others requiring serious training and instruction. Many homeowners choose to do their own wiring, then have a licensed electrician oversee the final connection to the service panel. Others may feel comfortable installing a single light fixture, but call a professional for major projects like kitchen remodels that require routing new wires and installing new appliance outlets. Don’t be afraid to ask for help when working around potentially dangerous electrical wiring. It’s always better to be safe than sorry. #homes #construction #electricalwork #doityourself #lighting #fixtures #house #DIY #remodeling #FIXR

Plan your paint project in advance. Image © visivasnc / 123rf.com When it’s time for your next home painting project, consider this advice before you ever pick up a paint brush. Prime Time For unpainted surfaces, plan on using a good Sealing Primer before painting. A Sealing Primer achieves the truest color for your paint and also offers stain- and odor-blocking properties. For unpainted drywall, use a PVA primer. This Polyvinyl Acetate primer helps to equalize the paper face and joint compound, so dissimilarities don’t show up as much in the paint coat. To seal wood knots, use a shellac-based primer to lock in tannin bleed. Priming may not be necessary when re-coating a previously painted surface, but it will never hurt. If you’re going to paint a darker color over a lighter one, use a tinted primer to reduce the number of paint coats required to achieve the desired color. If you’re dealing with water stains, apply a water-based, stain-blocking primer before painting (allow it to dry completely before painting). Should you pay for “Primer and Paint” in one can? Paints that “include primer” indicates the paint can be used as primer, but if you read the fine print, you might find some surfaces still require a separate primer. In fact, these “all-in-one” products make most sense when a primer isn’t really necessary, as when painting over similar type (latex to latex) finishes that are clean, dry, dull and in sound shape. These products typically have more resin in the formula than standard paint, so they stick better but cost more. Although they may prime the surface using the same product you’ll be using for a top coat, do  you really want to use your paint–which costs 3 times as much as a primer–as your primer? The Best Brush When painting with water-based or latex paints, always use a synthetic filament paint brush. China bristle paint brushes made from animal hair have traditionally been used for oil paints, but for interior house painting, oil paint is rarely used anymore, and China bristles don’t leave a good edge in latex. Latex- or Oil-based? For interiors, you should stick with a latex-based paint. In fact, the EPA is trying to steer the industry away from interior oil-based or “alkyd” paints due to health concerns. Water-based paints will emit fewer chemicals and lower levels of chemical vapors than oil-based. If your project requires a hard, furniture-quality finish, consider one of the new hybrid paints on the market, such as Benjamin Moore Advance, which is a waterborne alkyd paint with low-VOC even after tinting. One of the most recent developments is ceramic paint, which is latex paint that contains ceramic microspheres–tiny, round particles distributed throughout the dried paint film. The result is a smoother, more continuous paint film that resists cracking and does not absorb stains. The Right Roller Rollers are categorized by the height of the pile (aka thickness of the nap). Use a short-nap cover such as 3/8-in. for a smooth finish on interior walls. A 1/2-in. plus pile height is ideal for a stippled effect common to most home interiors. To coat rough surfaces like brick or cinder-block, use a larger nap for more efficient paint pickup and release. Sheen Makes a Difference Choosing paint sheen should be a careful decision. Flat paints conceal imperfections in walls and other surfaces, making them a good choice for ceilings and rooms that aren’t exposed to moisture (bedrooms, living rooms). However, flat paint is more porous and prone to water spots and mildew, making it a bad choice for a bathroom or other moisture-prone areas. Each step up in sheen makes imperfections in walls and woodwork more visible. High-gloss paints highlight imperfections but they are durable and stain-resistant—and much easier to clean than paints with less gloss. High-gloss sheen is an ideal trim paint for windows, baseboards and moldings. Color Makes an Impact Lightly colored ceilings and walls will make rooms look larger and more open. Want a room to look bigger? Go for cool paint colors like greens, blues and violets. If you’re going to use multiple colors in a room, use the darker color lower and the lighter color higher. With high ceilings, however, you can use bolder paint colors without feeling closed in. When making your color selection, view the options firsthand at the paint store rather than rely on a computer screen. Your best bet is to narrow down to a few selections, then apply a sample to your walls in 2- or 3-ft. testing swatches so you can make final selection in your own lighting conditions. Varying light conditions can make a dramatic difference in the way a human eye perceives a certain color. Quantity and Quality Equal Coverage Calculate how much paint you’ll require based on the area of the room(s) and the manufacturer’s coverage recommendations. A can of paint should be expected to cover no more than 400 square feet, and if it does, then you’re applying it too thin. And keep in mind that two coats perform better than one. You also get what you pay for… According to HIR‘s go-to painting expert, Ritchie Hamilton of Home Fix-Up, “If you’re paying any less than $20 a gallon, then you’re probably buying paint intended for rental units to maintain the same color. With all the extra coats the paint will require, you’ll spend more money trying to save money.” Plan for Tomorrow For future touch-ups and repairs, use the same batch of paint and method of application that was originally used, if possible. But a can of paint won’t last forever, so keep a list of paint used for each project, including the manufacturer, color and number. Pro Tip: If the day arrives when you need a new batch of matching paint, purchase it from the same supplier of the original batch. Different paint suppliers may have their mixing equipment calibrated differently, so to achieve the closest color match, return to the original supplier. BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! Be sure to check out the other two articles in our painting series: Interior Painting: The Prep Work Interior Painting: Application with Brush and Roller #homedecor #paint #doityourself #fliphouse #primer #renovation #interiordecor #DIY #paintingtips #howto #sherwinwilliams #remodeling #painttip

(guest post by Paigh Bumgarner) Whether you’re remodeling a room or adding on an addition, one of the best things you can build for future comfort and quality is also one you can’t see in the finished product: the subfloor. If done correctly, you won’t be able to hear it, either. Your subfloor should provide a flat, even surface on which to lay your finished floor materials. When replacing flooring finishes in a room, you may make the unpleasant discovery that the subflooring below has rotted or been damaged by common issues such as water leaks or pests. You could also discover the subflooring in your home was improperly installed or used warped wood, which could result in popping, squeaking and unevenness you can hear and feel from above on the finished floors. Pops and squeaks are not only annoying, though. As a result of the wood physically moving under pressure, a poorly installed or damaged subfloor also risks cracking or marring your finished floor, too. Regardless of the reason, here are four easy steps to take you down the path of building a new subfloor that better supports your flooring finishes. STEP ONE: Focus on Safety Make sure the floor framing system is properly fastened to the supporting walls, beams, girders or other supports and is properly braced against rollover during floor panel installation. Using both glue and screws will provide the sturdiest fastening for your framing. In the interest of creating that solid, flat surface for your finished floor, choose joist beams that are a high quality and straight-edged wood without warping or uneven sides. Place the joists so that they run parallel to each other at regular intervals. The size and space between the joists will depend on the kind of building codes required for your particular purpose. See floor joist or truss manufacturer installation instructions for additional information. For additions, consider creating railings connected to the framing to prevent falls. Follow all OSHA regulations and any other safety guidelines and safety practices during installation and construction. STEP TWO: Glue the Panels – Steps two and three make up one of the most powerful tenets of subflooring installation: glue it and screw it. We recommend using polyurethane or solvent-based subfloor adhesives that conform to industry standard APA AFG-01 or ASTMD 3498 and follow manufacturer’s recommendations when installing any flooring. These recommended adhesives structurally bond the panel to the joist for a stronger, stiffer installation than panels installed with fasteners alone. If you’re skeptical, try fastening one and then fasting and gluing another. We feel confident you’ll feel the difference once fully the subfloor adhesive has been fully cured. Apply subfloor adhesive for a strong, squeak-free installation. Photo courtesy AdvanTech. Panels should span two or more floor joists with the long dimension perpendicular to the floor framing. When using a foam-to-gel, high-strength adhesive like AdvanTech subfloor adhesive, apply a 1/4-inch bead of adhesive to the top of the floor joists. The adhesive fills minor framing irregularities and provides a tight, even bond that helps prevent squeaks. On joists where panels meet, apply two lines of adhesive. Immediately after applying the adhesive, lay the panel squarely on the joists. You should only apply enough adhesive for one or two panels at a time to avoid the glue drying and forming a “skin,” which could make it less effective. STEP THREE: Screw the Panels Code-approved fasteners should penetrate framing members at least 1 inch. For panels 3/4 inch thick, use 8d ring-shank nails, screw shank nails or #8 wood screws. For panels greater than 3/4 inch, use 10d ring shank nails, screw shank nails or #9 wood screws. We recommend screws for the best results. Install the fasteners by beginning at one corner and working your way to the remaining edges with a maximum edge distance of 3/8 to 1/2 inch. It should be a minimum of six inches on center (o.c.) on supported edges and a minimum of 12 inches at intermediate support locations. Boards like AdvanTech subflooring come with helpful pre-printed fastener guides for attachment to joists spaced at 16 inches o.c., 19.2 inches o.c. and 24 inches o.c. STEP FOUR: Joining & Spacing Run a 1/8-inch bead of compressible adhesive in the groove but be aware that using too much will cause squeeze-out. For the next panel and all additional panels, space 4ft panel ends and other cut edges with a recommended 1/8-inch gap. An 8d nail can make a great spacer if you prefer a physical guide. Stagger end joints of adjacent panel runs. The tongue and groove profile of the boards are designed to self-space and don’t require excessive force or hammering. In fact, using excessive force can cause swell down the line. If you have any adhesive “squeeze-out,” be sure to scrape it up immediately. Preventing glue from drying on top of the flooring removes an extra clean-up step and also ensures a flat surface for your finishes. Repeat steps two through four and, eventually, you will have completed a sturdy, solid subfloor. Editor’s Note: Paigh Bumgarner is Product Manager for AdvanTech. For more infomation on top-performing subfloor techniques and materials, visit AdvanTechAgame.com. #advantech #construction #huber #doityourself #flooring #subfloor #engineeredwood #plywood #homeimprovement #adhesive #DIY #howto #remodeling

Need to mark a lot of studs for trim installation? Electronic stud finders will work, but they can be frustrating to use, and even the best ones require time to recalibrate and scan. I use electronic stud finders to accurately pinpoint studs for targeted jobs like hanging shelves or pictures. When I need to mark studs all over a room, however, I’ve found it’s quicker to use a magnet. Here’s my method. Required supplies: Painter’s tape, stud magnet, framing square. First step is to tear off several swatches of painter’s tape and stick them somewhere within easy reach. I use tape to mark the studs because it leaves no marks on the wall. I use Frog Tape to mark the studs. Next, slide the stud magnet over the wall beneath the area where you want to install your crown molding or trim. You will feel the high-powered magnet tug your hand as it passes over a metal drywall screw, which indicates stud location. Once you’ve found the stud, leave the magnet stuck to it as an indicator. Slide the magnet over the wall in search of a metal drywall screw. Align the long arm of the framing square with the magnet and abut the short arm against the ceiling. Place a tab of tape to mark the stud along the long arm of the square, just an inch or two below the trim location. Repeat the steps for all the studs, sliding the magnet over the wall roughly 14-1/2 inches left or right from the stud you already located. Align the framing square with the magnet and mark the stud with tape. When it’s time to fasten the trim, position it against the wall and ceiling and nail it at the stud locations above the tape. Remove the tape when you’re finished for a blemish-free wall. This method can work for base molding too–just invert the framing square so the short arm lines the floor and mark the studs a few inches above the trim height. I’ve had my stud magnet for many, many years. It’s a very basic model but does the trick. Our friends at Calculate Industries, however, now offer a modernized version for only $11.95. It’s called the StudMark , and it has some handy extra features. Move the StudMark across the wall in a Z pattern, and its two powerful rare-earth magnets will snap to the drywall nail or screw head, leaving your hands free. Once in place, there are two removable magnetic markers that can be used to identify and mark a stud while the user moves on to locate and mark up to three studs at one time. Or, a pencil mark can be made in the divot located in the tip of the StudMark. Check out the video below, and learn more at https://www.calculated.com/. — M. Weber #remodel #doityourself #studmark #chhanson #stud4sure #studfinder #builder #homeimprovement #DIY #howto #remodeling #calculatedindustries #chhanson

I’m excited to say the first edition of HIR magazine is on its way in early January! In this issue, we show how to lay Luxury Vinyl Tile over an uneven subfloor, plus we cover professional installation of a new overhead garage door. We demonstrate step-by-step construction of a rustic-style wooden bed, and also explore new ladders and ladder accessories. But that’s not all. We include a product preview of the largest annual light construction convention in the world — the International Builder’s Show — including booth numbers for the companies that will be exhibiting. This should provide a handy guide for those of you who will be walking the convention floor along with us in Las Vegas. That’s right; HIR will be on site January 21 in Las Vegas to distribute printed copies of our first issue! And we hope to see you there. #construction #doityourself #homerepair #internationalbuildersshow #tools #NAHB #homeimprovement #DIY

As a protective measure for the Martinez family’s new indoor spa/pool room, the contractor team at Lovette Design-Build decided to prevent moisture damage to the home by covering the subfloor with Ice & Water Shield and then installing NuCore waterproof flooring. HIR goes on-site with pro installer Jeremy Harris of Complete Quality Flooring, who shares expert advice on how to do the job the right way. #nucore #floorampdecor #doityourself #floorinstallation #vinyltile #homeimprovement #DIY #waterprooffloor #remodeling #LVT

#boratool #tools #bora #homeimprovement #portamate #toolreview #sawhorse #DIY #remodeling #speedhorse

A missing picket made this homeowner’s decorative vinyl fence look like it had a tooth knocked out. The pickets had originally been attached with no visible hardware, and that’s the way we wanted to keep them when repairing. This meant we needed to reattach the picket with adhesive. To make the repair, I sanded down all points of contact between the picket and fence rails using 80-grit abrasive to remove any old glue and grime. I measured between the adjacent pickets and marked the center point on the fence rails. I then marked the center point of the loose picket to align with the rail marks. The adhesive I used to reattach the picket successfully was Gorilla Glue Super Glue. The manufacturer recommends applying only one drop per square inch to the work area, so I did. I then positioned the picket and clamped it into place, letting the glue set overnight. The next day, the picket was firmly attached. Good stuff. Sand all attachment points. Be sure to remove old glue and grime. Mark the center points for alignment. Apply the adhesive. Clamp the work piece firmly in place. Let the glue set overnight. Hurray, it worked! CONFESSION BOOTH: My work here wasn’t as simple as it sounds, because my first attempt failed. I’m no expert on plastics, and white plastic of a certain thickness looks to me like PVC. So, initially I tried to make the repair using the PVC primer and PVC cement I had in my workshop. This method works well when joining PVC, but it ONLY works with PVC. On this fence, my efforts failed completely–the cement didn’t even get tacky. Evidently, I had misidentified the type of plastic; the fence was in fact not made of PVC. I only mention this here to save you folks some time and frustration, in case you were considering attempting the same thing for your fence. WRONG: PVC primer and PVC cement work well when bonding PVC, but this fence evidently was not made of PVC. WRONG: This attempt at repair failed, and I’m only including here so you can learn from my mistake. #doityourself #vinylfence #fencerepair #gorillaglue #fence #homeimprovement #adhesive #superglue #DIY #plasticadhesive #remodeling

My home-improvement guide, ‘The Quick & Easy Home DIY Manual’, is available at BarnesandNoble.com, Books-a-Million, Walmart.com, Amazon and Lowe’s stores. Published by Weldon Owen, the book features helpful advice and step-by-step home repair and upgrade projects explained for the DIY’er. Full of photography and colorful illustrations and brimming with 324 handy tips, it makes a great gift for any homeowner, so order your copy in time for the holidays! Barnes & Noble has it on sale for only $9.98! Click the image to purchase.

The cover story for the first issue of HIR will feature a step-by-step demonstration of how to prep the subfloor and properly install adhesive Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring. We chose the Style Selections brand from Lowe’s. #vinylfloor #doityourself #flooring #vinylplank #adhesivetile #vinyltile #homeimprovement #installation #lowe039s #peelandstick #LVP #DIY #remodeling #LVT