by Austin Gardiner photo courtesy Latham Pool When pool season winds down, many homeowners stop thinking about their backyard centerpiece altogether. But this lull presents a unique opportunity. With schedules loosening for contractors and material availability on the rise, winter becomes the ideal time to re-imagine what your pool could be. Whether your goal is improved energy efficiency, better safety, or a fresh look, planning upgrades  now sets the stage for easier, more affordable transformations. A Fresh Surface for a Fresh Start Resurfacing remains one of the most effective ways to breathe new life into a pool. Beyond covering wear and tear, modern finishes can completely alter the character of your outdoor space. Options range from sleek quartz to vibrant glass bead and textured pebble surfaces. These materials offer standout visual appeal and are built to withstand years of use with minimal upkeep. Why consider resurfacing in the off-season? ·       Faster turnaround: With fewer jobs in the queue, projects move more quickly. ·       Greater availability: You’re more likely to book your preferred contractor and material choice. ·       Better pricing: Some contractors offer down-season discounts or incentives. An upgraded surface also sets the tone for everything else. If you’re planning to enhance lighting or tile work, addressing the finish first allows those features to look their best against a clean, updated backdrop. The cooler months offer the perfect window for smart, stylish upgrades — resurfacing, energy-efficient systems, and automation — so your pool’s ready to impress when the weather heats up. Smarter Systems, Lower Bills Pool equipment has come a long way in a short time. Many older systems were built for reliability but lacked energy awareness. Today, high-efficiency pumps, heaters, and filtration systems help homeowners cut down on energy use without sacrificing performance. Energy-efficient upgrades worth considering: ·       Variable-speed pumps: These adjust to your pool’s needs, reducing energy consumption significantly. ·       High-efficiency heaters: Newer models warm the water quickly and maintain heat with less output. ·       Advanced filtration: Improved filters mean clearer water and fewer chemicals. Bonus : Some states and municipalities offer rebates or tax incentives for installing eco-friendly equipment. The U.S. Department of Energy   provides details on current efficiency standards and savings opportunities. Automation That Simplifies Ownership Upgrading your pool doesn’t always mean tearing something out or building something new. Sometimes, it’s about making your current setup work smarter. Automation systems now let you control most aspects of pool maintenance from your phone, which is ideal for time-constrained homeowners who want convenience without compromising on care. Automation features to explore: ·       Remote temperature control ·       Automatic chemical dosing ·       Programmable lighting schedules ·       Leak and equipment alerts Integrated systems can also notify your pool service provider if something goes awry, preventing small issues from blossoming into costly repairs. It’s a forward-looking investment that saves time, reduces errors, and makes year-round pool care far more manageable. photo courtesy Latham Pool Safety Enhancements With Visual Appeal Upgrading safety features used to mean sacrificing design. Not anymore. Today’s technology blends seamlessly into your pool’s environment without looking industrial or obtrusive. Options that combine protection with subtle design: ·       Low-profile automatic covers ·       Slip-resistant surfaces with aesthetic finishes ·       Underwater LED lighting for better nighttime visibility ·       Modern drain systems that meet federal safety standards Homeowners with children, pets, or frequent guests often find that these updates boost their peace of mind while enhancing the pool’s usability and real estate value. Timing Is Everything By starting in the cooler months, you avoid the crush of spring and summer demand. Planning early means better access to materials, more flexible scheduling, and fewer surprises. Even better, phased upgrade planning allows you to prioritize improvements based on how often you use your pool, what your budget allows, and which features will deliver the greatest return. Here’s how we recommend approaching upgrades in a way that balances impact with practicality: 1.     Inspect and resurface:  Begin with the pool’s foundation to ensure durability and create a clean canvas. 2.     Modernize equipment:  Replace aging pumps, heaters, and filters to improve efficiency. 3.     Add automation:  Layer in smart systems   for easier, more consistent maintenance. 4.     Address safety:  Integrate covers, lighting, and compliant drains without disrupting aesthetics. 5.     Enhance aesthetics:  Final touches like tile work, landscaping, or water features can put a bow on the process. Rather than tackling everything at once, we often help clients build an upgrade roadmap that fits their goals, timeline, budget, and usage patterns. This phased strategy also assures that new additions work together visually and functionally, leading to a more polished final result. Look Ahead, Dive In Pools may be enjoyed less during the cooler months, but that doesn’t mean they should be overlooked. With the right upgrades—resurfacing, smarter systems, and subtle safety enhancements—homeowners can turn the off-season into a strategic window for meaningful improvement. Planning now sets the stage for smoother installation, greater material availability, and a pool that’s ready for action the moment that warmer days inevitably return. -- about the author Austin Gardiner   co-founded GL Pools in 2006, bringing a deep-seated commitment to excellence in the pool service industry alongside childhood friend Kyle Lobe. With an NPC Startup certification and having formerly served as the President of his local IPSSA chapter, Austin's expertise ensures GL Pools upholds the highest standards of service and professionalism. His passion and dedication have been instrumental in establishing GL Pools as a distinguished name in the competitive pool service market.

By Sean Comerford The adage "less is more" applies to much more than life lessons. For example, in home construction and renovation, it’s crucial to eliminate unnecessary costs while keeping both efficiency and aesthetics at the forefront. Air admittance valves do just that in terms of drain-waste-vent (DWV) systems. The DWV system consists of drain and vent pipes that remove waste from the home. While the drain-waste pipes transport waste from various drains away from the house to a public sewer or septic tank, vent pipes serve a dual purpose. Not only do they ventilate sewage gasses out of the house through an exhaust-pipe roof penetration, but they also provide an air passageway behind water through the drain-waste system. This is where air admittance valves come into play. What Is An Air Admittance Valve (AAV)? An Air Admittance Valve  (AAV), which you may also hear referred to as a "Cheater Vent" or "Mini Vent," is a one-way mechanical valve that is installed locally at the site of a plumbing fixture, allowing proper venting to occur without a connection to a larger venting system and stack vent. There are several different AAVs on the market today that vary slightly in design; however, they all perform the same function. AAVs offer various benefits for do-it-yourselfers, particularly when it is not possible to connect to an existing venting system or when aiming to avoid roof work. For DIY'ers, AAVs eliminate the need for making roof penetrations, which can be complicated and require professional help. When installed correctly, they’re a great way to save time, money, and frustration. Important:  AAVs do not replace traditional stack vents. Every building must still include at least one vent stack that penetrates the roof to relieve positive pressure within the plumbing system. AAVs are designed to complement that system, not eliminate it, by relieving negative pressure locally and minimizing the need for additional vertical vent runs. Why do I need an AAV? AAVs provide an alternative if you can’t connect to an existing venting system due to complex pipe routing issues or obstructions. It is an ideal venting solution for island sinks, remote bathrooms, home remodels, and additions that would otherwise have to be tied into a stack vent. AAVs allow homeowners more flexibility in the layout of their plumbing fixtures. Not only does installation save time and labor compared to more complicated approaches, but many homeowners prefer not to vent through the roof line for design and aesthetic purposes. Having less roof penetrations can also reduce the risk of leaks over time. The air admittance valve (AAV) allows air into the plumbing system, which prevents a vacuum from forming when water drains and stops it from siphoning the water out of a P-trap. This prevents unpleasant sewer gases from entering your home and ensures that fixtures like sinks and toilets drain properly. How Does An AAV Work? AAV plumbing operates on negative pressure activation. As water drains, air is pulled with the water as it drains, creating negative pressure. This opens the valve and allows air to be drawn into the system. With Oatey’s Sure-Vent ®  AAVs , a pressure change of -0.01psi (-0.25 inch H2O) activates the AAV to open. When that pressure is equalized, the AAV returns to its original seal, preventing sewer gases from entering the vent.   Four Factors To Consider When Selecting An AAV Consider the following expert tips during your AAV selection and installation process. 1.     Local Code and Manufacturer Requirements Before heading to your local hardware store, be sure to check with local municipality codes and manufacturer requirements to determine if an AAV is approved for your particular application. If the use of an AAV is not permitted, the fixture or drainage system will have to be vented traditionally through the home’s existing venting system. 2.     Sizing You can determine which size AAV you’ll need based on the Drainage Fixture Unit (DFU) load of the fixture(s), such as an island sink or bathroom group, that it will vent. An AAV’s ability to breathe is measured in DFUs. The higher the DFU rating on the valve, the greater amount of air that can enter the Drain-Waste-Vent (DWV) system. DFU loads are assigned to plumbing fixtures dependent on the volume rate of discharge, the duration of operation, and the time between operations. Common fixture load ratings are shown in the table below. To ensure proper breathing capability, determine all fixtures to be vented and calculate the total DFU load, then select the appropriate AAV for the application. Proper AAV sizing is critical because under-sizing will not allow the plumbing system to operate properly. AAVs are typically available with 1-½”, 2”, 3” and 4” adapter connections. The adapter size is based on the diameter of the vent pipe it is being installed on. Generally, a vent should be sized to be half the pipe diameter of the drain it is serving (refer to local codes for specific vent size recommendations). Fixture Applications DFU Load Traditional Public Bathroom Group (Toilet (1.6 gpf), bathtub w/ shower, and sink) 6 Traditional Private Bathroom Group (Toilet (1.6 gpf), bathtub w/ shower, and sink) 5 Public Toilet (1.6 gpf) 4 Private Toilet (1.6 gpf) 3 Washing Machine 3 Bathtub w/ Shower 2 Sink & Disposal 2 Dishwasher 2 Shower Stall (5.7 gpm or less) 2 Sink 2 Drinking Fountain 0.5 *2012 International Plumbing Code 3.     Pipe Material Additionally, verify the type of pipe material you will be connecting to the AAV adapter to ensure compatibility. In other words, AAVs with PVC adapters should only be paired with PVC pipe, and AAVs with ABS adapters with ABS pipe. Read this article  to be sure you know everything you need to know about AAVs . 4.     AAV Location An AAV should be located within the maximum developed length permitted for the vent. It must be located a minimum of 4” above the horizontal branch drain, 6” above any insulation material, and within 15 degrees of vertical. AAVs cannot be permanently covered and should be installed in an area that allows air to enter the valve. They must also be accessible in case the need for replacement arises in the future. How To Install An AAV: Step-By-Step Tools and Materials Needed: ●       Oatey ® Sure-Vent ®  Air Admittance Valve ●       Safety gloves ●       Tape measure ●       Pipe cutter or hand saw ●       Deburring tool ●       PVC primer , PVC cement  or ABS cement ●       Thread sealant tape   Choose the correct AAV. Check the drain fixture unit (DFU) load before installation to ensure you choose the correct AAV. This value is determined by the total amount of water that comes through a fixture. After calculating the dfu, select the appropriate aav to handle the volume rate of discharge that comes through the fixture, taking into consideration if you are venting more than one fixture. Mis-sizing your AAV can cause system malfunction. Remove any protective plastic film  or packaging from the AAV. Ensure the AAV is installed at least four inches above the horizontal branch (wall tube). The AAV must be installed vertically with no more than a 15° angle, remaining as level as possible. Measure and cut the pipe accordingly. Chamfer and deburr the pipe. Solvent-weld the provided adapter to the pipe. Follow these steps to achieve a perfect solvent cement joint every time . Wrap thread sealant  tape around the male threads  of the AAV and install the adaptor securely. Make sure to fill the sink with water to check for leaks. Insert the AAV into the adapter and rotate it clockwise until it is securely tightened . Additionally, ensure the AAV is not permanently covered and is installed in a location where air can freely enter the valve. See Oatey’s step-by-step video tutorial: -- About the author:  Sean Comerford is Manager, Inside Sales and Tech Support at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

What do you expect to see beneath the tree this year? A lump of coal? A bag of switches? A one-year membership to the Jelly of the Month Club? We’ve collected some better suggestions for the handyperson in your life—and maybe a few ideas to add to your own wish list. AirShim Pro Steel With its innovative steel plate design, the AirShim Pro Steel enables you to lift those narrow and point loads that cause other airbag prying devices to fail. Simple one-hand operation lets solo installers enjoy rock-steady lifts like never before. It works in two ways; the “UP” side stays flat, with no folding when lifting, while the “DOWN” side grips loads like a standard AirShim. Its soft cushion will not harm fragile surfaces like metal jacks and prybars will. The AirShim Pro Steel safely lifts, shifts, aligns, levels and plumbs, and can be used to hold items in place while you fasten them. Whether you're a pro installing or leveling windows, doors or cabinets or you’re a DIY’er trying to level a washing machine, the AirShim Pro Steel is your new go-to tool for precision and ease. www.calculated.com Bosch Blaze 100' Tape Measure An “Amazon’s Choice” pick praised for accuracy and ease of use. The Blaze 100 Ft. Laser Measure is compact and affordable and features a simple, user-friendly layout with two-button operation: one for measuring, one or rounding. The Blaze covers a long range with extreme accuracy, measuring distances up to 100 feet to within 1/16 inch. It measures in meters, feet inches, with fractions or decimals. A backlit display with large icons allows measurements to be easily read, even in dark areas. This compact measurer is easy to carry and fits in your pocket. The Rounding button allows users to easily round the measurement result from 1/2 inch up to 1/32 inch. www.boschtools.com Scrigit Scraper The holiday’s handiest stocking-stuffer is the Scrigit, an inexpensive, pen-sized, non-scratch cleaning device that provides a quick and convenient way to remove small amounts of unwanted substances from household and automotive surfaces, edges, and grooves where a metal scraper would scratch or damage the work surface. Quickly clean off grime, caulk, putty, wax, paint, dried food, adhesive stickers and tape. The Scrigit is two scrapers in one. A rounded tip simulates the scraping shape of a fingernail for scraping off small spots, cleaning curved surfaces, and removing adhesive labels, stickers and tape. The flat-edged tip is best for getting into tight spaces and cleaning off unwanted materials from flat surfaces, edges, corners and door tracks. Two sizes are available made in the USA of a durable plastic resin that easily washes clean and will not conduct electricity. www.scrigit-scraper.com Hardwood Wrench Jr. Got a deck-builder on your list? The patented Hardwood Wrench Jr. is one of the handiest board straighteners ever created. Its simplicity results in a lightweight, economical deck-board tool for bending unruly hardwoods, thermal woods, pressure-treated and composites. Use when fastening edge-groove clips or when top-down face screwing on either wood or metal joists. Its universal versatility easily adjusts to fit 1-1/2- to 3-in. wide joists and utilizes a cam-lever action pushing up to 1,100 lbs. of force. This rapidly increases on-site deck installations with more efficiency over typical pry bars or chisels. The advanced technology utilizes a rotating, locking cam coupled with an elongated dog leg, which stabilizes and locks this tool into place for hands-free board fastening. www.deckwise.com Santa is giving away the Hardwood Wrench Jr. on our Facebook page! FrogTape Advanced Hailed as “the most elite painter’s tape on the market,” FrogTape Advanced combines PaintBlock Technology with new premium innovations. In 2010, FrogTape introduced its PaintBlock Technology, which seals the tape edges, blocking paint bleed to deliver clean lines and a beautiful result. The new FrogTape Advanced is made of washi paper—a thin but very strong material—that gives it more flexibility than many other tapes, allowing it to lay flat and conform around challenging contours and curves without tearing. Plus, the ultra-premium washi paper backing is twice as strong as traditional crepe paper painter’s tape for better shred-resistance and tear-free removal. And, while it’s always best to remove the tape while the paint is still wet, FrogTape Advanced is designed to remove cleanly from indoor surfaces for up to 28 days. While typical tapes may be susceptible to damage from UV light, the Nano Technology on FrogTape Advanced absorbs and scatters UV light from the sun on outdoor projects. www.frogtape.com KNIPEX Knives and Chisels KNIPEX Tools LP has launched 22 individual punches and chisels as well as several sets to the North American market. The assortment includes 22 individual punches and chisels; four chisels, four center punches, two taper punches, five pin punches and seven roll-pin punches varying in sizes, as well as a variety of sets containing mixed sizes and styles of both punches and chisels. Made with the highest quality German steel, the entire tool is heat-treated to increase durability and longevity. All items have laser etching marks, feature a chamfered head and have a gold-colored finish to prevent corrosion. www.knipex-tools.com Hercules for Body Hercules For Body are cleaning wipes formulated specifically for jobsite conditions and effective at removing a range of dirt, grease, oil and other residue. The wipes can also be used to clean off most tools and jobsite equipment. Plus, the wipes are perfect for cleaning up after outdoor activities, yardwork or anytime you need to cool down and wipe away the day. Hercules for Body’s fragrance-free formula washes away grime and odor without leaving residue. Including Aloe and Vitamin E to soothe and condition skin, Hercules For Body are tough, large-size cloths that clean without tearing. The new easy-to-grab, 8 x 10 in. cloths cover more skin, which means you need fewer towels to get clean. www.oatey.com Georgia Boots Georgia Boots are tough, timeless, and built to last for hard days on the construction site, long hours of DIY, and early mornings as a logger. For farmers, ranchers, or anyone putting in sunrise-to-sunset hours, comfort is key, and Georgia Boots with the AMP Footbed feature memory foam to deliver all-day cushioning and comfort that never clocks out. For those clocking long hours of heavy-duty work on-site, a solid pair of Protective Toe Boots offers peace of mind, and Georgia Boots offers a lightweight composite toe that withstands 75 lbs. of impact and compression. Because some shifts don’t end when the weather turns, Georgia Boots’ all-weather waterproof options keep feet dry, warm and ready for whatever the day or night brings. For the weekend, Georgia Boot’s Chelsea Boots are sleek, rugged and ready to take people from errands to evenings out without missing a beat. www.georgiaboot.com Construction Master 5 With the Construction Master 5 calculator, you'll get easy-to-use, fast, accurate construction-math solutions for plans, layouts and on-site construction. Calculate roofs, stairs, circles and more. Work in and convert between feet-inches-fractions and decimals, including metric. Use it to save time, reduce costs and prevent re-work. Complete stair calculations for risers, treads, stringer length, stairwell opening and incline angle. It has built-in right-angle functions for square-ups, slopes and more; area, volume and perimeter solutions; solve for common rafters, regular and irregular hips, valleys and jacks. Calculate circular and arc shapes: areas, diameters, circumference. Use the calculator’s advanced solutions for cones, pillars, windows and post-holes, and find volumes for concrete driveways, columns and more. www.calculated.com Mayhew Dominator Pro 34” Pry Bar in Green Mayhew Tools announces the launch of its new Dominator Pro 34-inch Heavy-Duty Curved Pry Bar, also known as the Big Stick Jr., Part Number 14126GN. Available in green, this addition expands the popular Dominator Pro color line, offering professionals a tough, dependable, and reliable tool for demanding lifting and prying applications. The Big Stick Jr. is engineered for maximum durability and prying power, forged from 7/8-inch chrome vanadium steel that is fully hardened and tempered to withstand rigorous use. The shaft runs through the handle, allowing the tool to be struck without causing damage, and the capped end functions as a shock absorber to reduce hand fatigue during prolonged tasks. www.mayhew.com Werner Ready Step Werner’s new Ready Step compact fiberglass stepladder deserves a spot on your list. Unlike bulky ladders that get in the way, this one is designed with innovation and ease in mind—lightweight, slim enough to tuck away in a garage or work van, and tough enough to handle everyday projects. The new LockTop ladder top keeps essential tools within reach, securely holding up to ten items—including screwdrivers, a tape measure, small parts, and even a phone—while you work. www.wernerco.com Kindling Cracker Firewood Splitter If you need to create kindling for your campfire, wood stove, fireplace or pizza oven and you don't want to risk injury by using an axe, the Kindling Cracker is just what you need. It’s a safe and easy way to make kindling with no moving blade or sharpened object passing by your hands. To split a piece of wood, place it inside of the frame and strike it with a maul. Its splits firewood with less force than a standard axe. Made of high-quality cast iron, it has a 6.5-in. inside dia. top ring and is 12 in. tall. www.northerntool.com Takeout Portable Lamp London brand Buster + Punch takes its signature glow out of the home and into the wild with Takeout, their first portable table lamp. Compact, bold and stylish, the Takeout portable lamp is inspired by the award-winning Buster Bulb and radiates a warm, candle-like glow while a secondary LED canopy lights up the table below. With a solid metal body, iconic cross-knurling, and a rechargeable battery that lasts up to 14 hours, it’s designed to perform indoors or outdoors, rain or shine. us.busterandpunch.com Strongway 12V Portable Lithium Jump Starter This Strongway Portable Lithium Jump Starter/Power Bank delivers 12 volts with up to 1,500 peak amps to jump-start dead battery in seconds, making it perfect for cars, trucks, boats, RVs and more. This lightweight unit is housed in a sleek, durable case that is easy to store in your glove box, toolbox or backpack. It doubles as a portable power source with USB ports for charging smartphones, tablets and other mobile devices. The backlit screen displays voltage, battery status and more for simple user-friendly control, plus a built-in flashlight features steady beam, SOS and emergency strobe modes for added utility and safety. www.northerntool.com The Power Tool Alphabet by Kat Choppy This board book introduces little ones to the world of power tools through an engaging A-Z format and vibrant illustrations. Each letter highlights a real tool, what it does, and the types of projects it helps create, making it the perfect bridge between storytime and, eventually, workshop time. Tailor-made for DIY enthusiasts who want to share their passion with their kids, the book combines playful illustrations with accurate tool descriptions that appeal to both children and parents. www.sourcebooks.com FLEXiO 1500 Paint and Stain Sprayer Wagner SprayTech’s new FLEXiO 1500 handheld paint and stain sprayer features a single-speed X-Boost turbine that delivers the power to spray a variety of coatings for quick coverage. It applies material seven times faster than using a brush and delivers a consistent finish for a wide range of interior and exterior painting projects, such as interior walls, ceilings, fences, decks, sheds and more. The compact, lightweight FLEXiO 1500 is easy to handle and maneuver, making it ideal for a variety of projects. Users can adjust the spray width, material flow, and spray pattern for greater control and precision. It comes with five bonus cup liners for quick and easy cleanup, and there are only a few parts to rinse clean after each use. www.wagnerspraytech.com Axiom Precision 2X2 Desktop CNC Machine CNC machine is designed to bring professional-grade power and an unparalleled user experience to the workshop. Unlike competitor machines that require users to purchase and install a separate router or spindle, the Axiom model includes everything makers need, all in one box. This approach streamlines the setup process and ensures optimal performance from day one. Unlike common lead screws, Axiom’s offers rolled ball screws on all axes to deliver superior rigidity, precision, and durability for consistent, high-quality results. With up to 200 IPM travel speed, you can complete jobs faster with professional-level accuracy. www.jpwindustries.com Surebonder BCL-190 Hot Glue Gun As the fall crafting season approaches, this new BCL-190 mini glue gun is designed to meet the growing demand for high-performance, cordless crafting tools. From detailed DIY projects to on-the-go crafting, The BCL-190 is perfect for crafters who want uninterrupted power, offering cordless use with the option for continuous charging via its dock-style stand. Use it totally cord-free for up to 60 minutes. It features a detail tip for precise application, an insulated nozzle, quick heat-up time, and a built-in drip pad to keep work surfaces clean. The gun offers high-temperature operation at 380°F, standard mini-size glue stick compatibility, and is equipped with a built-in safety fuse for added protection. www.surebonder.com JET 20" Smart Drill Press Engineered for all woodworkers, the JDP-20S delivers cutting-edge touchscreen control, powerful precision and maximum performance. Designed to eliminate speed-setting mistakes and reduce setup time, the Smart Drill Press offers users full machine control at their fingertips, allowing them to select material, tool type and optimal settings with ease. With 22 built-in tool types, 15 customizable user presets, seven material types to select from, and real-time motor load monitoring, the Smart Drill Press helps users drill with more confidence and consistency. The tool features real-time load monitoring, and a 20-inch swing and 6-inch spindle travel tackle larger builds with confidence. The brushless 1.5 HP motor, cast iron base and table are backed by an industry-leading, five-year warranty. www.jettools.com . Klutch 20-Gallon Air Compressor The Klutch 20-Gallon Air Compressor offers powerful 2 HP performance with a maximum pressure of 175 PSI. Its oil-free pump ensures low maintenance, while a wrap-around handle and console cover protect essential components. Perfect for nailing, stapling, painting and blow gun operations, it offers 4.2 SCFM at 90 PSI for quick recovery and cycle time. A forward-facing drain valve allows for quick, complete tank drainage, and a user-friendly design that simplifies upkeep for enduring performance. This oil-free compressor eliminates the need for oil changes and oil checks and produces cleaner air. www.northerntool.com

In the USA, spring is the most popular time to start major home renovations. However, many homeowners don’t realize that the work determining whether a project begins on time needs to happen during the winter months. “Winter is the planning season for spring renovations,” says Kevin Xing, product manager at global construction machinery manufacturer BOLEO . “Contractors need clear access to the site, accurate ground assessments, and enough time to coordinate equipment and materials. If homeowners wait until March to start these steps, the project is already behind.” Kevin explains that winter conditions, from soil moisture to early freeze–thaw cycles in parts of the country, can affect how contractors evaluate a site and how they plan machinery access. Getting these checks done early ensures the property is truly “shovel ready” when crews arrive in spring. To help homeowners avoid delays, Kevin shares 6 things that homeowners planning spring renovations should do now:  1. Schedule a pre-construction site evaluation. Contractors need to inspect slope, drainage tree roots, and nearby structures before deeper frost or winter storms obscure issues. Early assessments give homeowners time to address problems before spring. 2. Start permitting and design reviews early. Winter is often a lighter period for permit offices and design teams. Submitting applications now helps avoid the spring backlog which slows many renovation projects. 3. Complete soil testing before the ground freezes. Accurate compaction, load-bearing and drainage tests rely on accessible soil. In colder regions, once the ground freezes, these assessments become less reliable or impossible until thaw. 4. Plan equipment access routes. Gate widths, turning space, slopes and overhead clearance all determine what machinery can safely enter the property. Compact equipment helps, but contractors still need clear access to work zones. 5. Identify material staging areas. Homeowners should map out level, dry areas where lumber, aggregates and equipment can be stored without sinking into soft ground when the spring thaw begins. 6. Understand what “shovel ready” actually means. For contractors, it’s more than paperwork. A site is “shovel-ready” when access is cleared, utilities are identified, ground conditions are documented, and staging space is planned. “Most spring delays come from issues that could have been caught in winter, like tight access routes, unclear drainage problems, or permits that weren’t filed early enough,” Kevin says. “Homeowners who use winter to plan are the ones whose projects start on schedule once the weather warms.”

By Dirk Tharpe Portland Cement is the second most used product in construction in the world, with only water being used more. Cement is the key ingredient to concrete, which is arguably the most versatile building material on the planet. Concrete can be cast in place or poured into a mold to meet a myriad of purposes for both interior and exterior projects. When it comes to outdoor projects, concrete has many uses, especially when structural needs are a primary driver. Concrete is the material of choice for weather resistance, durability and strength, and its overall low maintenance costs. Use Cases for Concrete in Outdoor Projects Uses for exterior concrete abound. Considering residential settings, a non-exhaustive list includes: ·       Driveways ·       Sidewalks and garden pathways ·       Fence post and mailbox anchoring ·       Front porch ·       Back porch or patio ·       Pool deck and swimming pools ·       Tennis courts, basketball goals and basketball courts ·       Foundations and formed walls Factor in commercial applications, including roadways, parking lots, loading docks and more, and concrete’s utility proves virtually limitless. Choosing the Right Mix While concrete has countless uses, not every mix is suitable for every project. In a sense, that’s one of its benefits; concrete is highly versatile and can be made to best suit any project’s shape, size, specifications or other needs. This adaptability is achieved through proper mix design. Think of it as a recipe—there is no one soup recipe. The same reality applies to concrete. Concrete material composition and the proportioning of these raw ingredients can yield a multitude of desired results to fit the intended concrete application. Depending on the blend and brand, a dry mix concrete will contain specially engineered proportions of cement, typically Portland cement, and aggregates, some variation of stone and sand . To create special properties such as faster setting time or enhanced durability, a blend may also include chemical or mineral admixtures. Another factor in choosing the right mix is determining how concrete will get to the project. It can either be delivered to a jobsite as ready-mixed concrete in a truck or be mixed on the job. For many smaller residential outdoor projects, ordering ready-mixed concrete by the truckload is neither cost effective nor practical, so mixing onsite is typically ideal. Concrete mixed onsite can either be made from “scratch” or with bagged dry mix. Today, many contractors opt for bagged dry mix, which only requires the addition of water for use on the job. Dry mix bagged concrete offers pre-engineered, pre-blended, product packaged so that users experience consistency bag-to-bag and batch-to-batch, as long as its water ratio remains consistent. Bagged concrete can be used anywhere that concrete is needed or required. Don’t look at ready-mixed concrete and bagged dry mix as in competition with one another; rather, they serve construction as complementary products to achieve the same end.   The All-purpose Pick: High-strength Concrete When selecting concrete for exterior applications, consider the intended use of the concrete and the heaviest loads it will be subjected to. For most residential outdoor projects, a high-strength concrete mix is a great choice. These blends have been around for decades and are trusted by professionals for projects ranging from small slab pours to high-rise building construction. A good high-strength concrete mix will deliver consistent performance and a smooth finish. Within a few days of pouring, it will reach 2500 psi or greater. This is the threshold for vehicle traffic; concrete that’s strong enough to drive on is tough enough to handle any residential outdoor project. The final strength will vary depending on the brand and mix you select. Sakrete’s High-Strength Concrete Mix, for example, reaches 4000 psi by the 28-day mark, making it a suitable all-purpose concrete mix. Concrete manufacturers also offer a variety of specialized high-strength mixes, adjusting their base formula with altered ratios or additional fibers. These concrete mixes offer benefits like long-term crack resistance , faster dry time, cold weather utility and more. Crack-resistant Concrete Mix Crack-resistant concrete mix blends synthetic fibers into a standard high-strength concrete mix. The exact fiber may vary; certain mixes use virgin polypropylene fibers, which create an ultra-smooth finish and increase the durability of the slab surface, reducing shrinkage cracking and enhancing impact resistance. Using crack-resistant concrete can also reduce the need for secondary concrete reinforcement, such as welded-wire mesh. These blends are an ideal choice for visible, load-bearing projects like driveways, sidewalks, steps and floor slabs. Fast-setting Concrete Mix For fence building and other non-structural setting of posts, a fast-setting concrete mix is usually the best option. These blends are engineered to initially set in as little as 30 minutes and typically require no mixing for post-setting applications—simply pour the dry mix into the hole and soak with water. A fast-setting concrete mix can offer substantial labor savings in a fence project by allowing the builder to start hanging ribs on the posts 30-minutes after set (in warm conditions), instead of having to wait until the next morning. Extra Strength Concrete Mix Beyond standard high-strength concrete, manufacturers also offer extra strong blends for projects that demand tougher concrete and enhanced workability. With a higher cement content than standard concrete, these blends reach an ultimate psi of 5,000 or more, and they gain strength more quickly. This rapid strength gain makes these mixes more workable in cold weather than standard concrete, providing extra utility for projects in certain regions. While professional-grade mixes like this are most often used in commercial applications, they can be used in residential projects as well. These mixes area ideal for residential projects like curb and gutter, sidewalk, and driveway replacement . Ready to Start Your Project? Whether pouring a driveway, setting fence posts or building another concrete structure to enhance an outdoor space, there is a bagged dry mix concrete product to match your needs.   You know what mix to buy for your concrete project. Now, how do you figure out how much material you need?   Fortunately, there are many free, online calculators available to help you determine exactly how much concrete product you need for your project. This Concrete Calculator  helps provide precises estimates tailored to your needs, with specific calculators for slab pours, post setting, repair and more. It’s also available in Sakrete’s free mobile app , downloadable from the Apple App Store or Google Play Store. -- About the author: Dirk Tharpe is territory sales manager for Sakrete. For more, visit www.sakrete.com .

Christmas trees, holiday lights, space heaters and hearths... Many traditional staples of the season can also bring increased risks if electrical safety is overlooked. The American Red Cross reports an average of 40 home fires occur per day  in December, many caused by decorations placed too close to heat sources, children playing near decorations, or other electrical issues that are characteristic of the holidays.   Whether you're stringing lights on the tree or hanging garland, it’s important to stay mindful of the electrical hazards. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) reports that, from 2018 to 2022, U.S. fire departments responded to an average of 835 home fires annually  that began with decorations. In fact, December is the leading month for home fires. Electrical Safety Tips for the Chilly Season Here are some simple ways for homeowners to reduce the risk of fires, injuries and property damage during the holidays.   Make sure your home is protected with arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs), devices designed to detect and stop dangerous arcing before an electrical fire can start  Inspect decorations for damage before use. Look for loose connections and exposed wires. Repair or replace any damaged electrical components. Never connect multiple extension cords to each other. connecting multiple extension cords has limitations and potential risks, including electrical overload, voltage drop, inadequate gauge, etc. Make sure your tree is at least 3 feet away from any heat source. Keep decorations far away from heat sources too. Store anything combustible away from a space heater. Turn lights and decorations off when not in use, and unplug them when unattended Don't place cords in walkways because they pose tripping hazards. Don't rout cords beneath furniture for the same reason, and pinch points beneath furniture legs can damage the wiring. Avoid overloading circuits. Distribute appliances across different circuits, use high-wattage devices one at a time, and avoid using extension cords and multiple appliances on a single outlet. “While small actions can go a long way in preventing home fires, the most effective protection comes from installing AFCIs, which identify and stop dangerous arc faults at their source," says Ashley Bryant Kees, chair of the NEMA LVDE AFCI Task Force. -- For more information, visit www.afcisafety.org .

Whether you're a DIY homeowner hanging a new TV mount or a contractor installing a handrail, fastening to concrete block walls requires a different approach than fastening into wood or drywall. Also known as concrete masonry units (CMU and not cinder blocks), understanding the right techniques for proper fastening is crucial for safety and a durable result. Fastening to Concrete Block Walls? Here’s What You Need to Know First Things First: Know Your Wall Before you even touch a drill, you need to understand the type of concrete block wall you're working with. A typical CMU assembly is constructed with hollow units, however, portions of the hollow cells within the assembly may be filled with grout (similar to concrete) and may contain reinforcing bars. Ungrouted CMU:  When anchoring to a section of a CMU assembly that does not contain grout within the hollow cells of the unit, specialized anchors or fasteners are embedded into or through the outer face shell to engage the masonry and lock the fasteners in place. Solid CMU or Grouted CMU:  At locations where the cells of the hollow CMU are filled with grout, anchors and fasteners can be embedded deeper into the assembly providing a more robust connection. Choosing the Right Fastener: A Breakdown The correct fastener depends on what you're attaching, its weight, and whether the wall section where the connector will be installed is hollow or grouted. Always follow the fastener manufacturer’s specific instructions on weight capacity and installation. For Light-Duty Applications (under 25 lbs.) These are perfect for hanging pictures, small shelves or lightweight fixtures. Plastic Anchors:  Simple, inexpensive and easy to use, these work best in the face shell of a hollow block or in the mortar joint. They expand when a screw is inserted, gripping the sides of the hole. For instance, to hang a small mirror, you would drill a hole in the face shell, insert the anchor, and then drive a screw into it. Toggle Bolts:  Ideal for fastening to hollow blocks where you need more holding power, the "toggle" (a wing-like mechanism) expands behind the face shell, distributing the weight across a larger surface area. This is a great choice for a flat-screen TV mount in a hollow CMU wall. Toggle bolts work well in hollow walls. The FlipToggle (pictured) requires a 1/2 in. hole and can be used with any bolt length, making it ideal for various applications. The unique flipping action combined with the tilting of its metal toggle simplifies installation. For Medium-Duty Applications (25-100 lbs.) This category includes items like wall-mounted cabinets or outdoor light fixtures. Self-Tapping Screws (Tapcons):  A favorite among contractors and DIY'ers alike, these screws are designed with unique threads that cut into the concrete masonry as you drive them, creating their own "tapped" threads. For a strong, reliable hold, use them in a solid section of the block, such as where the cross webs of the unit connect with the face shells or at solid grouted sections. A common use would be attaching a heavy bookshelf to a grouted CMU wall. Remember to use the correct masonry bit and clean the hole of all dust before inserting the screw. Concrete screws perform in concrete, block, and brick applications. Brands such as Tapcon feature a blue corrosion-resistant coating that enables them to withstand the harshest conditions. Sleeve Anchors:  These fasteners use an expander sleeve that is compressed against the masonry as you tighten the nut. Also called "molly bolts," they work well in both hollow and solid blocks. A key tip is to always use a washer under the nut to prevent the anchor from pulling into the masonry. Lead Anchors:  Also known as "lag shields" or "drop-in fasteners," these are set into a pre-drilled hole in the masonry before a lag screw is inserted. They provide a very strong hold, making them suitable for attaching heavy signs or machinery. For Heavy-Duty and Structural Applications (over 100 lbs.) When you're dealing with structural connections, such as anchoring a deck ledger or a sun roof to the house, or supporting heavy loads that may be subject to vibration, you need the strongest solutions. For these applications, the fasteners should be used in solid grouted CMU, not hollow, unless an engineer has designed the fasteners for your application. Epoxy Anchors:  They involve injecting a chemical bonding compound (epoxy or resin) into a pre-drilled hole, then inserting a threaded rod or rebar. The compound cures to create an adhesive bond that is often stronger than the concrete itself. This is the go-to method for critical, heavy-duty applications in grouted CMU. Powder-Actuated Fastening Systems:  These tools use an explosive powder or compressed gas to drive hardened fasteners directly into solid grouted concrete block. They are not recommended for DIY'ers.   Essential Techniques for a Perfect Fastening No matter the fastener, proper technique is key. Choose the Right Drill:  To drill pilot holes for fasteners in concrete masonry requires either a drill/driver with a “hammer drill” setting or a larger rotary hammer. These tools not only rotate the bit but also provide a rapid hammering action that pulverizes the masonry, making drilling faster and less strenuous. The smaller hammer-drill works well for light-duty concrete screws, but a "rotary hammer" is essential for drilling into grouted CMU. A smaller drill will simply not work effectively. However, the larger rotary hammer will be too damaging if drilling into only a hollow CMU. Screw and anchors for concrete blocks require a pilot hole. Light-duty drilling can be accomplished using a drill/driver with a hammer-drill setting. Larger fasteners in grouted block require drilling with a rotary hammer , a larger tool which features a hammer-only setting that can be used for chipping and demolition. Rotary hammers are often available to to rent . Use a Masonry Bit:  Always use a masonry drill bit that matches the fastener diameter. The packaging of most concrete screws and anchors will specify the bit size. Drill With Care:  Drill the hole perpendicular to the surface. It is crucial to drill to the specified depth. For screws and sleeve anchors, the hole should be slightly deeper than the fastener's embedment length to allow for dust accumulation. Clean the Hole:  This is one of the most important and often overlooked steps. After drilling, use a vacuum, brush, or compressed air to remove all dust from the hole. This ensures the fastener can achieve maximum grip or, in the case of epoxy, a proper bond. Don't Overdrive:  When driving a screw or tightening an anchor, stop as soon as it is flush with the material. Overdriving can strip the threads or cause the masonry to spall or crack, which can compromise the entire connection. If a fastener spins, it means the hole is either too large or the fastener has stripped. A longer or larger diameter fastener might work, or you may need to move the hole.   By following these guidelines and understanding the different fastener options, both homeowners and contractors can confidently and safely fasten into concrete masonry, ensuring a strong and reliable result for any project.   -- This article appears courtesy of the Concrete Masonry Checkoff , an industry funded initiative to support education, research, and promotion of manufactured concrete masonry units in the United States. The information is taken from TEK 12-05, Fasteners for Concrete Masonry by the Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association (CMHA).  You can also consult your local masonry supply company for products and information.

Chris Berry, better known as The Idaho Painter , has spent decades building both a successful painting business and a learning community for painters. With more than 1,500 free tutorials, product reviews, and behind-the-scenes videos on his Paint Life TV YouTube channel, he has made education a core part of his work. Through his Paint Life Academy, Chris is expanding that mission by offering hands-on coaching and development to help address the growing need for skilled craftspeople in the industry. In this Q&A, Chris shares practical techniques from his experience as a professional painter, including how he uses FrogTape to handle challenging surfaces, achieve crisp lines, and work efficiently without compromising quality. Q: What are some of the most challenging surfaces to prep for painting, and how do you get clean lines with painter’s tape? Textured surfaces are always the toughest—brick, orange peel walls, or knockdown textures. The challenge is getting a straight line across those highs and lows. FrogTape works perfectly on smooth surfaces, but on textured ones, you need to really work it into those peaks and valleys with your fingers. Sometimes I’ll also “caulk the tape,” which means running a thin bead of clear [paintable] caulk over it. The caulk fills in gaps that the tape alone can’t, and when you pull the tape before the caulk dries, you get a crisp, straight line. Q: When you use the caulking method, what’s the secret to getting it right? Timing is everything. If you wait too long and let the caulk dry, it forms a bridge between the tape and the surface. Then, when you pull the tape, it rips paint and caulk with it. The trick is to paint and pull while the caulk is still wet. That’s what gives you that razor-sharp line on rough surfaces. If you’re working solo, don’t get too far ahead of yourself. In a team, you can have one person caulking, one painting and one pulling tape for efficiency. Q: Some painters argue you shouldn’t rely on tape at all. What’s your perspective on this? Old-school painters will say you need to master cutting in with a brush. And sure, it’s important to know how to use a brush. But I’ve found that with tape, I can train someone in weeks to produce professional-looking straight lines. Teaching them to cut in with a brush alone could take years. Tape, especially when paired with caulking, is a tool that saves time and money. It’s been a huge part of how we’ve run a profitable painting business for decades. Q: Beyond textured walls, what other scenarios are especially difficult for taping and masking? New flooring with fresh baseboards is always tricky. If you’re not careful, paint can bleed onto the flooring or even pull off the coating. I learned that the hard way years ago. That’s why I keep FrogTape Delicate Surface Painter’s Tape  in all my vehicles. It’s designed for delicate surfaces like hardwood floors, wallpaper or faux finishes. For flooring, I’ve developed a method of tearing short strips of tape and sliding them under the baseboards in a sawing motion. The thinness of the yellow tape makes it perfect for this, and it prevents both bleed-through and damage. Q: What about wallpaper and decorative finishes—how do you handle those? Always with a tape like FrogTape Delicate Surface Painter’s Tape . Regular production tapes will rip wallpaper or pull Venetian plaster right off the wall. We once had an employee use Orange Painter’s Tape  on Venetian plaster, and it damaged the finish. Orange is great as a production tape, but yellow is what you want for wallpaper, faux finishes or delicate surfaces. Q: Which types of FrogTape do you rely on the most? FrogTape Pro Grade Orange Painter’s Tape  is my everyday go-to because it’s affordable and has a stronger adhesive, which makes it great for exteriors and new construction. I also use a lot of FrogTape Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape —it can stay on surfaces longer and removes more cleanly. FrogTape Pro Grade Painter’s Tape  is a little rougher and more professional-grade, but I don’t use it as much. Yellow is essential for flooring, wallpaper, and delicate surfaces, but I’d say I use it the least compared to orange and green. Q: Since FrogTape Orange doesn’t have PaintBlock technology, why do you use it so often? Cost. FrogTape Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape  can be $9 a roll, which adds up. FrogTape Pro Grade Orange Painter’s Tape , being a production tape, is much cheaper and often comes in bulk. In situations where I’m spraying—like exteriors or rooflines—bleeding isn’t an issue because the paint just lays on top of the tape instead of being forced underneath. That’s where Orange shines. New construction painters with tighter margins especially lean on production tapes like this. Q: Do you use any special tools for applying or cutting tape? One of the top tools I recommend is the Zorr Corp 2-Edge Knife . It’s basically a five-in-one tool with a knife built in, so you don’t need to carry both a snap knife and a five-in-one. All my employees use it. It’s tough, easy to spot because of its orange color, and great for cutting perfect corners on tape. Sometimes I’ll use it lightly to press tape onto smooth surfaces, but most of the time, I rely on my hands. Fingers give you feedback and even heat up the adhesive a bit, helping the tape bond better. We never leave tape on overnight, no matter what the release rating says. Q: What’s your rule of thumb for drying time before pulling tape off of a surface? As pros, we can’t afford to sit around watching paint dry. Latex paints can take 30 days to fully cure, but we need to move much faster. Usually, we’ll wait about two hours before taping over fresh paint, especially with FrogTape Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape  or FrogTape Pro Grade Painter’s Tape . With FrogTape Pro Grade Orange Painter’s Tape , it’s riskier because of its stronger adhesive. For exterior jobs, we’ll often paint and mask overlapping colors the same day—it saves time, and with the right tape and light pressure, it works. That said, we never leave tape on overnight, no matter what the release rating says. Heat, UV rays and aged surfaces can cause serious damage if tape is left too long. Q: Why don’t you leave tape on overnight, even though some tapes are rated for 21 or 28 days? Two reasons. First, we want customers to come home to a clean house, not a construction zone. Second, environmental factors like heat, sun, and aging surfaces make it risky. Tapes can bond too aggressively and pull off finishes from old windows, hardware, or even ceiling fans. I’ve seen it happen. Even though FrogTape performs well, our policy is to pull everything the same day. It keeps things professional and reduces problems. Q: What’s your go-to technique for removing tape cleanly? Always pull at about a 45-degree angle, slowly and steadily. If you yank too fast or pull at too shallow an angle, you risk pulling paint off with the tape. If possible, priming surfaces before painting helps too—paint bonds better to primer, so tape is less likely to peel it up. Quick-dry primers make this much easier. Q: What are some common misconceptions about painter’s tape do you want to clear up? The biggest one is that “real painters don’t use tape.” That’s just not true. I hand-cut all my ceiling lines, but for trim, baseboards, windows, and uneven surfaces, tape is the smarter, faster option. On one window, cutting in with a brush might be quicker. But on a house with 20 windows, tape wins every time. It’s about using the right tool for the job. Q: Are there any specific situations where you’ll always use tape? Absolutely. Anytime I’m working around trim, windows, doors, baseboards, tile, or cabinets, I use tape. The only exception is ceiling lines—I prefer to cut those in by hand. But tape paired with caulking is the only way to get a perfectly straight line on things like tile grout. Q: Any other tools or accessories you recommend? One I really like is the ToughGaff , which comes from the movie industry. It clips on your belt and holds rolls of tape so you’re not dropping them on the ground or putting them in your mouth, which ruins FrogTape. It keeps the tape handy and protected. I use it every day now, and it’s saved me time and product. Q: What advice would you give to other pros when it comes to taping and surface prep? Honestly, it’s all about the prep. The tape itself is important, but how you apply it matters even more. Take the time to really seal it in, use a tool if you need to, and don’t be afraid to cut in by hand when the surface makes it too hard. At the end of the day, it’s about giving the customer the cleanest line you can. Q: Do you have any final tips for painters learning to mask with tape? The straightness of your painted line depends on how straight your tape is. Beginners often make short runs of tape, which leads to wavy lines. I like to pull out 18–20 in. of tape at a time, stretch it tight, tack it down and then smooth it with my fingers. If you spot a wave later, just correct it with a longer piece of tape before painting. Take the time to fix mistakes up front, and your lines will always look sharp.

As professional installers look for materials that offer both robust protection and a superior finish, steel emerges as one of the top choices. For generations, steel siding has stood as a symbol of durability, beauty and longevity.  While the inherent strength of steel is unquestionable, its performance and endurance are connected to the precision and care taken during installation. Mike Igo, Vice President of Klauer Manufacturing Company , shares a comprehensive guide that outlines the necessary steps and best practices for installing steel siding to a wall. The result is a finished product that not only looks exceptional but also stands up to the test of time and the elements. Initial Preparation is Key Before the first panel is ever lifted, thorough preparation of the wall surface is crucial. First start with a full inspection of the existing wall. Any signs of rot, water damage, or structural weakness should be addressed and repaired; you must ensure the sheathing is sound and securely fastened. Next, consider potentially applying a water-resistive barrier (WRB). This layer acts as a secondary defense against moisture, even if water manages to penetrate the steel siding. Apply the WRB according to the manufacturer’s instructions, assuring proper overlap of seams. Proper ventilation is another frequently overlooked aspect of steel siding installation. Sufficient airflow behind the product helps to prevent moisture buildup and regulate temperature. If utilizing a WRB, consider installing furring strips, possibly 1x3 or 1x4 lumber, vertically across it. These strips create an air gap and provide an optimal surface for fastening the siding panels. The spacing of furring strips will depend on the specific steel siding product and local building codes, so always check the manufacturer’s guidelines and appropriate regulations. After completing inspection of the wall, start the actual siding job by installing J trim around windows, doors, and at inside corners. Next, install outside corners (just the outside corner bases if a 2-piece option is available, corner caps can go on at the end of the project to protect them from being damaged). Window and door jamb wraps should be installed at this time as well if applicable. Next step is to find the starting point, snap chalk lines, and install starter strip.   Installing the “Starter Course” Establishing a level starting line is the first step toward an accurate layout—the foundation of a professional steel siding installation. One way this can be done is by using a level and a chalk line. The starter course, which is the first row of siding panels, is critical for making sure that the additional rows that follow are straight and aligned. Install the starter strip along the bottom of the wall to guarantee it’s level and securely fastened to the optional furring strips or sheathing. Be aware of how the courses of siding will fit against the soffit and around windows. Adjust the strip’s height to allow for enough of a siding panel to work with, one inch of a cut panel won’t look good in these areas and will be difficult to deal with. Once the starting height is determined, measure down from the soffit in several spots and snap a chalk line to establish a line plumb to the soffit. This will ensure a clean, level look. If the line is overly unlevel and not plum to windows and door, make an adjustment to find a starting point that works best overall. From the starter strip chalk line, measure the width of 3 courses of siding plus 2 inches and snap a “check” chalk line. This line will be an easy way to show that the siding is fitting together well and is working its way up the wall level and properly. When handling steel siding, it’s key to remembering that the material expands and contracts with temperature changes. However, since steel siding panels are fairly stable, it won’t shrink and expand as much as vinyl, wood or other products made with glue and cement—a key benefit of this material. Therefore, it’s always safe to leave a small gap where the siding meets trim or other components. Reference the manufacturer’s recommendations for specific expansion gaps based on the specific climate you’re working in and the product. Properly Aligning and Securing Siding Panels Once the starter course is in place, you can begin installing the main siding panels. Many steel siding systems feature interlocking edges or overlapping designs. Align the first panel with the starter course and confirm that it is level and upright. Fastening steel siding requires significant attention to detail. You can use corrosion-resistant fasteners, such as galvanized or stainless-steel screws or nails that are explicitly designed for steel siding installation. Fastener heads need to be large enough to keep the panels secure but not too large so that they interfere with the interlock of the panels. Hot - dipped galvanized roofing nails are a common choice. The type and length of fastener will depend on the thickness of the siding and the wall substrate.    Fasten the panels through the designated nailing slots or areas, verifying that the fasteners are driven straight and even with the surface. Avoid over-tightening the fasteners, as this can distort the panel and deter expansion and contraction. Try maintaining uniform spacing between fasteners and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines. Sill trim, under windows and against the soffit should be installed in conjunction with the pieces of siding that will be cut length-wise to fit. The sill trim may need to be furred out to allow the cut piece of siding to rest against the wall at an angle consistent with the rest of the siding.  The cut piece of siding is then edge-notched and snapped into place. As you install other panels, ensure that the interlocking edges or overlaps are properly engaged and regularly check that each piece of steel siding is installed horizontally with no tilting. When cutting steel siding, use appropriate tools such as a circular saw, twin cutter, electrical scissors, or tin snips. For Klauer’s residential steel lap siding, you can cut individual panels with tin snips. Remember, the best tool is the one that suits you and your worksite—not necessarily the one considered ideal for steel siding. However, avoid using abrasive or dull blades that can generate unnecessary heat and potentially impair the finish. Steel siding has sharp edges, so wear appropriate eye protection and gloves. and cover any exposed skin because potential damage can ensue from flying steel shavings.  Trimming and Final Touches Install trim pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions, warranting proper overlap and secure fasteners. Numerous trim options are available, including J-channels, corner posts, fascia, and soffit; J-channels are best suited for windows. At the end, clean the siding with a mild detergent and water to remove any dirt, debris, scuff marks and more. Experience the Durability of Steel Siding Installing steel siding is a skill that combines attention to detail with an understanding of the material and best construction practices. By adhering to these guidelines, you can guarantee a steel siding installation that not only elevates the beauty of a building or home but also provides reliable protection against the elements up to 50 years or more . -- Want to Learn More? For more details on steel siding installation, refer to the illustrated installation manual provided by Klauer Manufacturing, which understands that the enduring strength of steel, paired with careful installation techniques, stands as a testament to quality craftsmanship and a commitment to long-term value. Visit www.klauer.com .

By Courtney Klosterman DIY is surging in response to rising costs, with 55 percent of homeowners planning to take on more DIY projects this year, according to a report  from Hippo home insurance. But there are some projects that homeowners should leave to the pros. Below are common home issues, what can be done DIY and what should be left to the pros.   Water and Moisture-related Issues Even minor water and moisture-related issues can devolve into serious damage over time. Promptly addressing plumbing leaks or water damage can help prevent costly repairs. Homeowners can and should tackle minor moisture issues, like small leaks under sinks, with basic plumbing solutions, but extensive water damage, like flooding or mold infiltration, should be handled by professionals.   Structural and Exterior Concerns Identifying structural or exterior issues can help prevent severe weakening of the home’s framework. Maintaining windows, doors, and siding also helps prevent weather-related wear and energy efficiency issues. Homeowners can typically complete smaller tasks, like sealing hairline cracks in driveways or patching up minor siding damage. Structural or major exterior damage requires expert assessment and repair to ensure safety and maintain property value.   System and Appliance Failures Early detection of issues in critical systems like HVAC or water heaters helps ensure uninterrupted comfort and safety. Preventing or addressing these issues quickly can also help save money on replacements. Simple fixes like replacing appliance filters or unclogging a dryer vent are manageable for most homeowners. However, certified technicians should be contacted for complex or system-wide failures, like HVAC breakdowns or plumbing system issues.   Refresh Windows and Doors Giving your windows and doors a face-lift can help improve your energy efficiency, ensure that pests and moisture stay out, and help dampen outside noise. Remove old caulking if needed and apply new caulk and weatherstrip gaps in doors and windows. Window replacement can be a challenge for inexperienced DIY’ers, and most should call a professional.   Energy-efficient upgrades Small-scale DIY upgrades can be both affordable and easy to install. For example, programmable thermostats can cost anywhere from $50 to $200. Instead of manually changing the temperature, you can set a heating and cooling schedule that matches your household. You can also find ones that adjust the temperature based on the weather or can learn and adapt to your preferences over time. Some upgrades, like solar panels, can require large upfront costs to cover equipment, installation, and labor.   DIY or Call a Pro? The key to a successful DIY project lies in strategic planning. If you’re embarking on DIY projects as a way to meet your financial goals, it’s important to be honest with yourself about whether or not you should tackle a project on your own. Homeowners who bite off more than they can chew run the risk of costly errors that require professional repairs. This can quickly overshadow the potential cost savings of DIY.  Here are tips to help you decide when it’s time to DIY or call in an expert:  • Honestly evaluate your skills and experience level when it comes to the specifics of your project.  • Break down the project into smaller tasks. Identify which tasks you can confidently handle and which require specialized skills. • Weigh the potential cost savings of DIY against the potential costs of mistakes or delays. Factor in the cost of renting tools or purchasing specialized materials. • Consider your available time and the project timeline. If time is limited, hiring professionals might be more efficient. • Some tasks, like electrical or plumbing work, require specific licenses and expertise. Prioritize safety by hiring professionals for these tasks. • Be aware of local building codes and permits. Professionals can often navigate these complexities more efficiently. • For tasks that significantly impact the project's outcome (e.g., foundation work, roofing), consider hiring professionals to ensure quality and longevity.   — Courtney Klosterman is home insights expert at Hippo  home insurance.

Our staff came across some interesting solutions for repairing damaged brick walls at the World of Concrete 2025, which was a convention held in Las Vegas for commercial construction professionals. The products and procedures shown here come from construction hardware manufacturer Simpson Strong-Tie and are marketed to commercial contractors, but if you have the right tools—or enlist a contractor who does—these procedures can also apply to homeowner properties in need of some rehab. Heli-Tie Stitching Tie Crack Repair Accessory The Heli-Tie helical stitching tie provides a solution to the preservation and repair of damaged brick and masonry structures. The ties are grouted into existing masonry joints to repair cracks and increase strength with minimum disturbance. Made of Type 304 stainless steel, the Heli-Tie stitching tie features radial fins formed on the steel wire via cold rolling process, increasing the tensile strength of the tie. Here's how it works: Heli-Tie Helical Wall Tie Crack Repair Accessory The Heli-Tie helical wall tie is a stainless-steel tie used to anchor building façades to structural members or to stabilize brick walls. The helical design allows the tie to be driven quickly and easily into a predrilled pilot hole (or embedded into mortar joints in new construction) to provide a mechanical connection between a masonry façade and its backup material. As it is driven, the fins of the tie undercut the masonry to provide an expansion-free anchorage that will withstand tension and compression loads. The Heli-Tie wall tie is installed into the pilot hole using a proprietary setting tool with an SDS-plus shank rotary hammer to drive and countersink the tie. Heli-Tie wall ties perform in concrete and masonry as well as wood and steel studs. Here's how it works:

By Mary Kate Hearns In today’s competitive painting industry, professional painters face increasing pressure to deliver flawless results while maintaining efficiency and protecting customers’ property. Homeowners expect responsible, diligent and skilled professionals whose work is perfect with crisp lines, zero splatter and careful attention to detail.   Pros can achieve these lofty standards by starting with one fundamental tool: painter’s tape. Debunking the myth that professional painters don’t need tape, 90 percent of homeowners consider the use of painter’s tape by a professional painter as an important or very important sign of a “job well done.” This is just one finding from a 2024 FrogTape survey. The study also revealed that 87 percent of homeowners agreed or strongly agreed that the use of painter’s tape by a professional shows a higher attention to detail. These results counter the notion that painter’s tape is unnecessary for pros – a trait particularly common to those who have been in the industry for many years.   In addition to validating painter’s tape as an essential tool, the FrogTape survey found that over half of the homeowners surveyed require the professional they hire for their home project to either have a good online review or be someone that they used for painting projects in the past. Consumers’ expectations represent a shift in the professional painting industry. However, adapting isn’t simply about customer satisfaction. It’s about embracing tools and techniques that can help improve workflow and job results.   Preparation: The Foundation of a Flawless Paint Job  Achieving a successful and satisfactory paint job begins well before tape is first applied. Proper preparation ensures exceptional results!   The first step when taking on a new project is to protect the customers’ property. For interior jobs, this means any furniture needs to be wrapped in plastic or drop cloths and moved to the center of the room, wall decor must be removed with care, and windows must be masked securely. It's also necessary to cover light fixtures with plastic to protect them from excess splatter. Finally, prepare the surface by removing dust, grease or any residue, and repair any rough spots like holes or cracks.    For exterior projects, pre-painting care is also key. Surface preparation includes power washing or scrubbing away mildew, dirt and paint residue. Repair rough spots, holes or cracks. Then remove or cover outdoor furniture, plants and fixtures near the house and lay drop cloths on walkways and landscaping. When possible, remove shutters, light fixtures and hardware before taping. This preparation may feel time-consuming, but it is vital to an efficient and quality job. Once the initial preparation is complete, it’s time to tape!    Surface Prep and Tape Selection  Successful tape selection depends on matching adhesion strength to surface characteristics and the project requirements. Professionals understand that not all surfaces require the same approach, and that the right tape makes all the difference. The FrogTape brand offers products for every type of job.  Multi-Surface Projects FrogTape's flagship product, Multi-Surface Painter's Tape , provides medium adhesion for a variety of interior and exterior surfaces including drywall, vinyl, glass, and metal. This tape featuring exclusive PaintBlock Technology to seal tape edges and prevent paint bleed. It removes cleanly after 21 days and is UV-resistant up to 7 days in direct outdoor sunlight. FrogTape Advanced Painter's Tape offers elevated performance when it comes to super sharp paint lines, conformability around curves and removal without tearing or shredding. This ultra-premium painter's tape is treated with exclusive PaintBlock Technology and offers 28-day indoor clean removal with Nano Technology, which protects against weakening of the bond between the adhesive and backing. Plus, the washi paper backing is thin, yet two times stronger than crepe paper painter's tape for better conformability, shred-resistance and tear-free removal. Delicate Surfaces  For delicate surfaces like freshly painted walls or decorative finishes, low-adhesion painter’s tapes offer necessary hold without risking damage upon removal. Tapes like FrogTape Delicate Surface feature PaintBlock Technology, clean removal for up to 60 days and provides flexibility for multi-coat projects or extended timelines.  Exterior Surfaces  High-adhesion tapes, FrogTape  Pro Grade Orange Painter’s Tape , for example, are best for challenging surfaces like painted wood trim, vinyl, metal, stucco, brick and concrete. These stronger tapes require special attention to removal timing, as they typically offer clean removal from outdoor surfaces for up to 3 days without shredding. When preparing to use high-adhesion tapes for surfaces like brick and stucco, it is imperative to clean thoroughly to remove dust, dirt and debris. Then make sure the wall is in good condition with no loose or crumbling sections. When applying the tape, you should use a putty knife or similar tool to ensure it adheres and apply a thin bead of clear caulk along the edge of the tape and smooth it out. This prevents paint bleed and ensures a crisp line. FrogTape Pro Grade Orange Painter’s Tape is UV-resistant up to 1 day in direct outdoor sunlight.  Wood Surfaces Heavy-grained wood is another challenging surface due to its uneven and absorbent texture. Tackling this type of job works best by lightly sanding the wood to smooth out rough spots or splinters. If the wood is highly absorbent, consider applying primer to create a more even surface. Options here are FrogTape Delicate or Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape. If it’s finished wood, FrogTape Delicate Surface Painter’s Tape is the safest option. This tape holds firm to wood, but is gentle enough to avoid damaging its surface.  If the wood you’re working on is unfinished, FrogTape Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape is ideal. When applying the tape, press it down along the grain using a putty knife to ensure a tight seal. After applying, paint a thin strip along the edge and let it dry to help seal the wood fibers and prevent paint bleed under the tape. Or, run a damp rag over the tape’s edge instead. This extra step helps activate its PaintBlock Technology, sealing the tape's edge.  Textured Surfaces  Other jobs involve textured walls with grooves, bumps and ridges. After cleaning the surface and ensuring the texture isn’t flaking off, use FrogTape Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape. When applying, use a putty knife to press the tape into the texture, which ensures that it adheres to bumps and grooves. As adherence to this surface can be tricky, heating the tape during application with a hairdryer or heat gun can help it conform to the wall. For best results, use a caulk gun to apply a thin layer of clear latex along the tape’s edge and smooth it out with your finger. This extra step activates the PaintBlock Technology, securing the tape's seal. Complete painting and remove the tape before the caulking dries to avoid paint pulling away with the tape.  Containment and Large-Scale Jobs  Finally, large-scale projects involving restoration, abatement or extensive remodeling benefit from integrated containment solutions. FrogTape Double-Sided Poly-Hanging Containment Tape streamlines protective sheeting installation by combining premium painter's tape adhesive with aggressive holding power in a single product. This dual-adhesive system reduces installation time by 50% compared to traditional methods while providing secure containment for painting, cleaning, sanding, mold remediation and asbestos removal operations.  The Big Picture: Embracing Efficiency Through Excellence  Professional painters who implement smart tools and embrace intelligent tape application quickly discover that quality and efficiency work hand in hand. Proper preparation, appropriate tape selection, and consistent application methods not only meet modern client expectations but also streamline workflow and reduce costly callbacks. The comprehensive line of painter's tape from the FrogTape brand provides professionals with reliable solutions engineered for diverse project requirements, from delicate surfaces to demanding outdoor applications. In today's competitive market, painters who master these fundamentals while leveraging proven products position themselves for long-term success while consistently delivering the flawless results that discerning homeowners demand.  -- Mary Kate Hearns is Senior Product Manager at Shurtape Technologies, LLC