Embedding Objects in Epoxy

By Roderick Kabel

A popular epoxy technique is to encapsulate objects within it. Either sentimental memorabilia, everyday objects such as rocks, bottle caps, photos, coins, deceased bugs, figurines, or even… bullets. Yikes!

Embedding and encapsulating objects, whatever they might be, offers a unique way of showcasing exciting uses of epoxy. Depending on what materials or objects you plan to encase, there are different steps to be taken that should guarantee the optimal outcome.

In no particular order, objects can be encased in either blocks of epoxy or incorporated with wood such as river tables or bars and countertops. 

The Right Materials

This durable type of finish is created by using a two-part epoxy resin that self-levels upon application. The epoxy can provide a clear transparent protective and can be tinted with powdered or liquid pigment colorants.

Be sure to choose high-quality epoxy resins. WiseBond Epoxy Systems, for example, offers both a Deep Pour epoxy and a Bar & Table Top epoxy, both of which are known for their ease of use and high-shine, crystal clear transparency.

Be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the mixing and handling of the epoxy.

The Basics

When pouring and embedding objects in a river table, start by creating a bottom “sacrificial layer.” Pour a layer of Table Top epoxy about 1/8" to 1/4" that will protect your embedded items from the sanding and leveling equipment you will use on the underside of the table. Once that layer is tacky or hard to the touch, you can start adding the items you want to embed on top of that epoxy layer before moving forward. However, that next step depends on the item(s) that you’re casting. You may want to pour additional thinner layers to create a level of epoxy that will suspend your objects at a particular height in the final deep pour.

For lightweight, thin items that the epoxy could soak through, such as newspaper, photos, or magazine clippings, you’ll want to use a mixture of white glue and water to seal them before arranging them in the river. Wood and concrete items can be coated with Quick Set Seal epoxy, which is a penetrating resin sealer to prevent the release of air bubbles and off- gassing—and it has a fast cure time to speed up project completion.

You’ll also want to secure your arranged items in place with epoxy. We prefer using Table Top epoxy or Quick Set epoxy because it will blend seamlessly with the Deep Pour epoxy. (Some glues, including hot melt glue, tend to be amber or yellow and could be seen in the final cure.) Securing the items will hold them to the river table so they will not float away during the encapsulating deep pour. 

While you don’t necessarily have to secure heavier items such as rocks, tools, etc., you

still need to coat your items with Quick Set or Table Top epoxy to “wet” and seal out surface air bubbles on your objects. Other troublesome bubbles can come from pockets of air that get trapped inside irregularly shaped items. You may need to consider filling holes and voids in your items with epoxy to avoid bubbles escaping during the final pour and cure.

Casting

Object casting is a little different than embedding items in a river table. For this, you’ll have to create a base and a mold/barrier for the casting epoxy. Whether you use wood, plastic food containers, plexiglass, or some sort of pre-made mold, it’s your preference. 

The WiseBond Deep Pour epoxy will easily cast solid blocks of epoxy up to 6x6 inches—maybe larger. Whatever the size of your mold is, always be sure to seal any wood or base material on the bottom of the mold as well as seal the object(s) to be embedded with epoxy. This is again to avoid bubbles from leaching out of your objects during the final encasing thick epoxy pour.

Keep in mind that pours over larger objects will have a lot of epoxy mass, which generates heat. The project can overheat. We suggest placing a fan next to the mold to keep it cool and prevent overheating during the epoxy’s exothermic reaction.

 As you would during any pour, be sure you’re measuring and mixing the epoxy correctly according to the product instructions to avoid any epoxy exotherm or curing problems.

Popular Projects

Here are some of the most popular items we’ve seen encased in epoxy, and some tips

on how to do it:

• Flowers or leaves – Any flowers, flower petals, or leaves must be dried prior to being exposed to epoxy. If any moisture remains, the plant will turn brown or moldy within the epoxy. You can press the foliage between two sheets of a napkin and place them inside or under a heavy book for five days to dry. You will want to use glue wash or a thin layer of epoxy to prevent bubbles and to secure the foliage in arrangement if you’re pouring anything thicker than a drink coaster.

• Photographs, magazine, or newspaper clippings (paper products) – Again, you’ll want

to add a thin layer of watered-down white glue encompassing the magazine or newspaper clipping(s) before exposing them to epoxy. Once that’s been done, secure the items with epoxy before arranging them.

• Seashells and bottle caps – These are light enough that they need to be secured with epoxy for sure. These items can also harbor pockets of air so be sure to fill voids with epoxy prior to making the thick pour. 

• Rocks – Depending on how big or heavy the rocks are, you may not need to secure them in epoxy. You will still need to coat them in a thin layer of epoxy to avoid surface air bubbles before a larger pour.

• Gun bullets – We do not condone or recommend using live bullets in epoxy. Although gunpowder ignites at 801–867 °F, and epoxy typically only reaches 150 °F to 175 °F, we

recommend pulling the bullet round out of the casing, emptying the gunpowder, and then replacing the round in the casing to avoid any potential hazards. The choice is up to the epoxy artist, but empty casings are a safer alternative.

• Gun bullet casings – The empty bullet casings will be hollow and will cause a problem with air bubbles. We suggest filling the casings with epoxy to avoid air bubbles and to give them some weight.

Finishing Tip

After flooding the object with the deep pour, keep an eye on the project for the next couple of hours in case it requires any maintenance. For example, table top epoxy will have bubbles in it from mixing, and tiny bubbles might form if air escapes from the objects. However, as the bubbles rise to the surface, you can easily eliminate (pop) them with a heat gun or propane torch.

Allow the epoxy to cure for 72 hours before handling the finished project.