"Click" flooring has become popular with DIY homeowners because of its simplified “snap-together” installation method. Click flooring requires no glue or nails, eliminating the need for specialized tools and reducing the labor required to complete the job. This type of flooring connects to the surrounding boards with a tongue-and-groove joint to create a floating floor system with a seamless appearance. “Easy installation” is a relative concept, however, and the job can still be daunting for anyone unaccustomed to flooring work. The following article covers some important things to know if you plan on tackling the job yourself. There is more to learn about floating floors than just “click it and you’re done.” Types of Click Flooring Engineered flooring is manufactured by adhering genuine hardwood to layers of plywood or Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). Some engineered flooring can be sanded and refinished, depending on the thickness of the wood veneer. Laminate flooring is manufactured with a photograph of finished hardwood applied over MDF, which is protected by a wear layer. Laminate flooring cannot be refinished. Vinyl plank flooring is made without a wood component but can be manufactured with the appearance and texture of wood or even ceramic tile. Because it’s an all-vinyl product, it can be used as waterproof flooring in damp environments. Click flooring is available as laminate, engineered wood, and vinyl plank, which all vary in cost, looks and performance, so do plenty of research when selecting. Site Prep If installing a wood floor, it’s a good idea to use a moisture meter to test the moisture content of the subfloor. Moisture can cause cupping, buckling and other related issues. Never install a wood floor over a known moisture condition. Moisture content should be kept below 12 percent to protect wood from rot or decay. Installation of a plastic moisture barrier may help mitigate moisture problems and protect the new flooring. All subfloors must be flat. This means there should be no high or low spots within 1/8 inch over a 6-ft. span, or 3/16 inch over a 10-ft. span. High spots can be sanded or grinded down and low spots filled with floor-patching compounds. Set any protruding fasteners flush into the subfloor. On wood subfloors, take the opportunity to walk over the entire area and listen for any squeaks. If you locate any, drive long screws through the subfloor and into the joists to tighten the connection and arrest any movement that can cause the noise. Underlayment One key to a successful click flooring installation is choosing the right underlayment. The underlayment is a thin engineered material that usually comes in rolls and lays between the subfloor and the new flooring. Many underlayments include a vapor barrier that helps protect against moisture, mildew and mold. The denser the underlayment, the more it smooths out minor imperfections in the subfloor. Thicker underlayments make walking and standing more comfortable by adding cushion to the hard surface. They can also add a layer of insulation and even dampen sound transmission to reduce noise and vibration. The type of underlayment you need depends on the type of material you’re using, whether you’re installing over wood or concrete, and how much comfort you want. The right underlayment can add moisture protection, insulation, sound absorption and more comfort underfoot. Unroll the underlayment across the floor and cut it to fit along the walls. Butt the seams together, taping if necessary. Installing the underlayment is usually a simple procedure. Line up the edges of the underlayment against the wall and cut it to fit using a sharp utility knife. Lay the strips until you’ve covered the subfloor. Make sure seams abut together rather than overlap. Tape the seams if necessary. When installing wood over concrete, even if your underlayment provides some moisture protection, a 6-mm poly should be installed as an extra vapor barrier to protect beyond the underlayment’s capability. Some types of click flooring come with an underlayment pad already attached to the bottoms of the boards, but you can usually install an additional pad for extra warmth and comfort. Check the floor manufacturer’s guidelines for additional underlayment approval. Prior to installation, refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines on how to acclimate the new flooring. The instructions often indicate the flooring should be stored 48 hours in the room where it will be installed, so the material can adjust to the temperature. Layout Before laying the floor boards, check the room for square. Use the 3-4-5 rule to check that the corners form right angles. Measure and mark a point that is 4 feet from the corner along one wall. Measure and mark a second point that is 3 feet from the corner on the intersecting wall. A diagonal line between the two points should measure 5 feet if the walls are at 90 degrees. In large rooms, you can double the ratio (i.e., 6-8-10). The first rule of flooring layout: Make sure your board pattern is square even if the room isn’t. If one wall is significantly out of square, then lay out the floor so the tapered boards will run along the least noticeable wall. Plan your layout carefully and make sure to establish a square installation with your first rows. Use plastic spacers between the wall and flooring to maintain an expansion gap. Next, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the floor boards. Based on your measurements, will the final row of boards only leave enough room for a partial sliver of flooring? If this is the case, then consider ripping the first row thinner to leave room for a wider, more attractive row of flooring against the opposite wall. You’ll also need to consider where other fixtures and wall projections will intersect the boards and do your best to avoid small sliver boards whenever possible. Install the Flooring To assemble click flooring, the boards typically connect by inserting the tongue into the groove at roughly a 20-degree angle. Then, press down on the board while applying forward pressure to lock it in. The simplest type of click flooring, called Angle-Drop flooring, is designed to be installed without tapping or lifting. Angle-Tap flooring is designed to use a hammer to install. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance. A hammer and tapping block can help apply pressure to close the tongue-and-groove joints, but be sure to use a tapping block that won’t damage the boards. A rubber mallet can be useful to smooth out stubborn seams from the top. In general, it’s easier to connect the long joints first and then close the short joints. A hammer and tapping block will help to lock together the joints on many types of click flooring. Pro tip: Use stacks of flooring to weigh down the first rows, which tend to shift around from the hammer taps until enough flooring is assembled to provide the adequate weight and friction to prevent movement. Along the wall edges, you’ll need to lock the flooring joints together by using a hammer and pull-bar rather and tapping block. It may also be helpful to hold the plastic wall spacers in place with painter’s tape. Mix the planks before you install them so that you don’t end up with too many light or dark panels next to each other. If installing boards with an artificial wood or tile look, be careful to avoid repeating the pattern by separating identical boards from each other. As you lay the rows, use plastic spacers or wood blocks to maintain a 1/4-in. gap around between the floor and walls, which allows space for the natural movement and expansion of the floor. At the end of the rows, you’ll usually have to cut the final board to fit. A powered miter saw or dedicated flooring saw are the best tools to trim the boards. Many times, the cut-off piece can be used to begin the next row of flooring. Stagger the end joints of the rows by 8 inches or more. Once the flooring is complete, install baseboards and/or shoe molding to conceal the expansion gap along the walls and give the new floor a finished look. A flooring mallet can help close stubborn flooring seams from the top side. Editor's Note: Special Thanks for Richard Hamilton for help with this article. Wait, there's more! Flooring Tools We Recommend Pro Tips for Hardwood Flooring Installation 30 Tips for Floor Tile

Is that steady drip driving you crazy? Repairing a leaky bathroom faucet is a quick and inexpensive fix that even first-time DIY’ers can accomplish. This brief article will show how to replace a common two-handle compression faucet, but the steps are similar for other faucet types. First, turn off the cold water valve. If the water stops dripping, then the problem is in the cold-water handle of the faucet. If the water still drips, then the problem is in the hot water handle. Leave the valve shut off for whichever handle you’ll be working on. Remove the faucet handle, which will be screwed in place from the side or the top. If there is a set screw, use a hex key or Allen wrench to loosen and remove it. If the handle has a top screw cover, pry it off with a flat screwdriver and set it aside. Then, use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the screw beneath the cover. Be sure to close the sink drain to avoid losing any small parts. Set the handle screw aside in a safe place. Pull the handle free to reveal the faucet cartridge. Use a crescent wrench to loosen the packing nut around the cartridge. Remove the nut and pull out the cartridge. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to find an exact match for replacement. Replace the new cartridge into the handle, aligning it according to the instructions included with the cartridge. Apply the packing nut, tightening it down with a wrench enough to compress the O-ring of the cartridge to prevent any leakage. Replace the handle and screw and tighten it in place. Open the water valves. Wait, there's more! How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet Easy Installation with Precept Kitchen Faucet Repair a Tub Spout Diverter Filtered Water from Every Faucet Stop that Leak! Replacing Bath & Shower Valves

If you own a home, you have to maintain it, and fighting exterior wood rot is an ongoing battle for most homeowners. The rot is caused by a type of wood-destroying fungus, which is as damaging as termite infestation and can wreak havoc on everything from siding and trim to windows and doors. If the wood isn’t maintained with paint and caulk or some type of exterior sealant, then rot can take hold and completely decay it. In some cases, you can catch the problem in its early stages and make repairs before a complete replacement is necessary. In other situations, you’ll need to remove the old wood components and replace them using methods to ensure long-term performance. Here’s a look at some repair options. Scrape, Prime and Paint The easiest way to combat wood rot is to prevent it from happening. The key to preventing rot is to protect the wood from moisture. Lingering moisture in the wood creates an environment conducive to the fungi growth which deteriorates the fibers. When you see paint flaking or peeling on the house, make it a priority to scrape away the old coating and sand the surface if necessary to prep for recoating. The paint works as a layer of armor to protect against water and rot. Seal any open joints with a flexible caulk/sealant, recess any visible fastener heads, and spackle any holes, checks or cracks with a non-shrinking exterior wood filler. Seal any bare wood or repairs with a quality primer/sealer, then update the surface with one or two coats of exterior paint. The same principle applies to stained and sealed wood on a deck or fence. You can determine its condition by simply splashing water on your deck. If the wood quickly absorbs the water, and the surface darkens, then the wood isn’t waterproof and it’s time for a maintenance coat. If the water beads, sits on the surface, or runs off, then the wood is adequately sealed. Preventive maintenance is the best approach because deterioration of neglected outdoor wood is inevitable. If you end up having to make a repair, you’ll still have to follow up with all the sealing, priming, and painting that you skipped earlier. Filler Up Minor surface repairs to painted wood can be made using a variety of paste-like filler products, provided that the rotted wood is first removed from the problem area and the surface is prepped correctly. A screwdriver or chisel can make a good scraping/gouging tool to remove damaged material and wood rot. Clean away any residual dust and debris with compressed air or a shop vac. Before adding a repair filler or epoxy product, consider applying a “Wood Hardener” to the damaged area. Also known as “Wood Restorer” (depending on brand), these quick-drying liquid products have a special resin that binds and reinforces damaged wood fibers to form a solid base for filling. Water Putty—For minor rot repairs, Durham’s Water Putty is a powder product that is mixed with water on site. The putty is easy to use and clean up, and you get a lot of product for your money. Water putty should be used on vertical applications where water does not pool. In a mixing container, add a little water at a time to the Water Putty powder and stir with a paint stick until you achieve a consistency similar to thick pancake batter. Apply the product in layers up 1/4-in. thick at a time. Allow each application to dry before adding more product. Once the damaged area has been completely filled and dried, sand the area smooth. Make sure to seal the repair with a waterproofing product such as exterior primer and paint. Two-Part Fillers and Epoxies—For larger rot repairs, two-part wood fillers or two-part epoxies, which are available from a variety of manufacturers, require mixing together on-site to initiate the hardening process. They can create a very durable, permanent repair, but they’re also messier and more difficult to use due to the short working time before the product begins to stiffen. However, once dried, the repair can be sanded, shaped, planed, drilled, routed or sawed just like wood. This means the material can be molded into a three-dimensional wood replacement such as the broken corner of a window sill. Surgical Wood Replacement The best solution may be to cut out the damaged section of wood, carefully cut a replacement piece of pressure-treated wood to the exact same shape and dimensions, and glue the new piece into the construction with a high-quality, exterior-grade adhesive. A buzz-cutter (a.k.a. oscillating multi-tool) equipped with a plunge blade is an excellent device for cutting out the problem. Sharp wood chisels can also be useful in skilled hands. Be sure to remove all loose chips, dust and debris from the damaged area. After fabricating a replacement piece from treated wood, you should thoroughly coat all sides of the new piece—plus the damaged area—with exterior primer/sealer before fastening in place. The sealer will add an extra measure of moisture protection. Fasten the replacement into the void with countersunk nails or screws combined with an exterior-grade wood glue or construction adhesive. Fill the seams with a paintable, exterior caulk/sealant, and tool the joints smooth. Apply primer and a matching coat of paint to complete the repair. PVC An alternative repair method is to replace the rotted material with PVC, which is even more durable than treated wood. Commonly stocked in 3/4-in. thickness and a variety of standard widths, solid PVC boards won’t check, swell or rot, no matter how wet it gets. However, PVC trim is more expensive than treated wood, is limited to a few simple profiles, and can be difficult to find in some areas. Note that stock PVC should not be used if the repair will be painted a dark color and exposed to the sun. When the dark color tone absorbs heat from the sunlight, the high temperature can warp and deform the PVC material, which should only be used for light-color applications or shielded from sunlight. 6 Tips for Replacing Rotted Exterior Trim Window trim, door casing, handrails and fascia… These are a few common candidates for wood rot around most people’s homes. Here’s a little insight on how to replace rotted boards. 1. Before prying off the rotted boards, cut through the caulk joint with a sharp utility knife to separate the materials and avoid damage to paint or siding. 2. Scrape away old caulk and paint to provide a clean surface where new adhesives can bond. 3. When replacing the trim, use treated wood components and make sure to seal all sides and end grain of the replacement boards with exterior-grade primer. Alternatively, you can replace the rotted wood with PVC trim (must be painted a light color). Urethane moldings may be an option for more elaborate decor. 4. When cutting the boards to size, avoid cutting through any knots in the wood. If you do, the knot will most likely dislodge from the board and leave a big ugly hole right on the edge. Avoid this problem by moving the cut-line a few inches further up the board. You can trim those extra inches off the opposite end to get the board length you need. 5. Trim-head screws like the Fine Screws from U2 Fasteners have a small head that is easy conceal with filler, which is ideal when making repairs. 6. Caulk all gaps and seams with a quality elastomeric sealant. The HIR team uses the Duramaster sealant because it’s very flexible, paintable and cleans up with water. Finish up with a topcoat of exterior paint. Working with PVC Trim I planned to spruce up this roof overhang with a little caulk and paint. Plans changed when I found the extent of the rotted fascia (which had consisted of two separate boards with a gutter hiding the linear joint). This required complete removal of the fascia boards. To replace them, I ripped and edge-joined some 1x6 PVC stock to make a single 1x9 replacement board that wouldn’t rot. I then installed the new PVC fascia along with a replacement gutter. Plus, I repaired the adjacent house siding with Durham’s Water Putty. Fascia damage is common on homes, so check its condition on your own home every once in a while. Stock boards of PVC can also be cut to shape and used for surgical trim replacements in common rot-prone areas, such as exterior door casing. Polyurethane glue works well to adhere a PVC replacement piece into the cavity. Countersink the fastener heads and conceal them with non-shrinking exterior filler then sand smooth. Seal all seams with a paintable, flexible caulk, then prime and paint the repair. Working with Repair Fillers For minor vertical repairs, water putty is an inexpensive option that is easy to use and clean up. Once the putty dries, it is easy to sand smooth. However, the repair must be thoroughly sealed, primed and painted to protect it from water. For more severe surface damage, Bondo filler is an option to repair a rotted wood cavity. Mix the two-part formula according to the instructions and work quickly to fill the void before the product hardens. Tool the repair as smooth as possible. Be prepared to sand the surface smooth with the surrounding construction. Tips for Fascia Replacement Replacing a rotted fascia board is a common headache for homeowners. Here are a few tips to make the job easier. Unless you plan to reconstruct the soffit, it’s best to replace the fascia board with one of identical size and dimensions, otherwise the fit will be off. However, be sure to select very straight pressure-treated boards with no bend or warp, or else you’ll have trouble fastening it in place. Purchase long boards to reduce or eliminate any joints in the fascia. Depending on the house design, some fascias have a groove in the rear to fit against the soffit. If that’s the case, you’ll need to reproduce the groove to the same measurements using a router. Coat all sides, end grain, and also the router groove with a quality exterior-grade primer/sealer. Follow up with two coats of paint to encase the boards in protection. Before hanging the fascia, mark the fastener locations with tape for quick identification. Joints in the fascia boards should be cut at a 45-degree scarf joint located over solid framing. The faces of the miter should be coated with a quality exterior wood glue like Titebond III, and the mating boards should both be screwed together securely to the framing. We recommend using three 3-in. Universal Screws at each fastener location. Countersink the heads and conceal with filler, then sand and paint. Apply a drip edge to divert water away from the house, and if attaching a gutter, make sure the drip edge folds down inside the trough.

A pergola can make an impressive visual statement in an outdoor space. The sweeping lines and strong, sturdy frame provide an attractive focal point that provides shade for relaxing and entertaining. If you’re considering adding a pergola to your property, you can build your own, hire a contractor, or assemble one from any number of widely available kits. DIY vs. Pro When assembling your project from a kit, all the cutting and notching has been done for you. All fasteners and materials are shipped directly to your job site. The kits include step-by-step instructions, saving lots of time and planning, and the wood usually comes prefinished from the factory. All you need to do is recruit an assistant, unbox the parts, and start building. Because all the prep work is done, it’s usually a quick job to build a pergola from a prefab kit. Depending on its size, a pergola kit can be assembled in a weekend or less. Although the kits can occasionally cost more than purchasing the raw materials, by the time you spend the time and fuel to source materials from different suppliers, the potential savings may become negligible. And this assumes you already own the necessary tools for construction. Pergola kits from Backyard Discovery are shipped to your home complete with all fasteners, hardware, and accessories ready for do-it-yourself assembly. To build a custom pergola from raw lumber will require much more work, but you can design it to suit your needs and personal aesthetic taste, adding details that make it uniquely your own. Hiring a contractor is the costliest way to get the job done, yet for countless pergola owners, having the project completed by a professional is well worth the expense. If budget is not an obstacle, a professional can be enlisted to construct your ideal pergola as you sit back and relax. Homewyse.com estimates labor for a 10x10’ pergola to range from $1,500 to $5,000, depending on where you live. Lumber The most economical and widely available material to build a pergola is pressure-treated pine. However, professional pergola contractors often build only with Western Red Cedar, which has a consistent wood grain that resists warping and splitting. The wood also has natural oils that deter insect and moisture damage. Another sought-after pergola material is redwood lumber. Depending on your location, redwood might be difficult to find and expensive if you find it, but it has similar preservative oils as Western Red Cedar, plus it’s an even stronger species of wood. The Hawthorne Steel Pergola from Backyard Discovery comes as a kit constructed of galvanized steel with a powder-coat finish to be maintenance-free. Location Pergolas are often used to cover a deck or patio, protect an outdoor dining area, provide shade for a pool or hot tub, or adorn a backyard garden. To integrate the pergola into the existing landscape, they’re typically built square to the house or a nearby structure. Design Pergolas are built in a wide range of sizes and styles, but most are constructed with four support posts connected at the top with beams (AKA girders), rafters, and smaller cross-members called purlins. Pergolas are fairly simple structures in design but can be embellished with decorative accents. Visual proportion is the key to designing a pergola. The 6×6 posts will need larger beams and rafters so the top of the pergola will look strong and regal rather than undersized. Also consider allowable span based on the size of the pergola you’re building. For example, a 12-foot span is too long for a 2×6 board, which will not only look small and weak but will sag over time. Most builders use a minimum board size of 2×8 for the upper framing members, and that’s for a small pergola. Common lumber sizes for a large pergola include doubled 2×12 for the beams, 2×10 for the rafters, and 2×4 for a layer of decorative purlins fastened atop the rafters. Explore online building plans or even compare your design to ready-made pergola kits to help determine your project’s size and appropriate proportions. A common variation is a pergola roof attached to a home with a ledger board, similar to a deck, and supported by two posts. Apply Preservative Best practice is to stain and seal the wood with a waterproof finish before assembling the pergola. This will add your choice of color while also protecting the pergola from water and insect damage, and even UV discoloration (with some products). It will be much easier to stain the wood while it’s still on the ground. Plus, you’ll be able to access all sides of the boards, including the areas where the wood will meet at a joint. Treated lumber should only be coated with a protective finish after it has dried from the treatment process. Although cedar and redwood have natural preservative oils, the wood will turn silver over time if not maintained with a UV-blocking stain/sealer. Support Posts Most pergolas are supported by 6x6 posts. For a small pergola, 4×4 support posts will work, but the 6x6 has a beefier look that most homeowners prefer whereas 4x4 posts can appear spindly on large pergola designs. Furthermore, the 6x6 posts can be notched to support the beams and rafters from below, creating very strong, reliable joints for the pergola construction. If you’re building with treated lumber, make sure the post material is rated for ground contact. Pergola construction is not a one-man job. The large, heavy lumber requires assistance lifting and fastening in place. Even setting a tall 6×6 post is a two-man job. One worker plumbs and aligns the post while a second secures the bottom and attaches 2x4 diagonal brace boards that hold the post plumb and square. The braces are nailed to each post on adjacent sides and can be adjusted as the post is moved into plumb position. Once the post is set, the braces can be held in place by staking them to the ground. Use 2x4 diagonal bracing to help stabilize the posts while you adjust them into plumb and square position. To ensure the most longevity of your posts, it’s best for them to avoid direct contact with the ground. A metal post-base can be bolted and epoxied on top of a concrete pier to protect the post’s end grain from wicking up moisture from the ground. The post rests on the galvanized metal instead of concrete, and the base is fastened to the sides of the posts. You can then conceal the post base by adding trim boards to the bottoms of the posts. Best practice to protect the posts from rot and moisture damage is to make sure they avoid direct contact with the ground. A metal base like this one from Simpson Strong-Tie provides a standoff that anchors to a concrete pier and fastens to the sides of the post so the wood doesn’t wick water into the end grain. Connections The beams can be fastened to the posts using a number of methods. You can utilize metal brackets or a number of 1/2-in. carriage bolts, but the strongest means of supporting the load is to cut notches in 6x6 posts that carry the roof from below. Doubled beams made of lumber as large as 2x12 are used to carry the joists. The rafters (and purlins to follow) should all be evenly spaced and centered over the pergola frame. Spacing 16 to 20 inches apart is common. The easiest way to fasten the rafters is to drive 3-inch screws or ring-shank nails through the boards and into the beams at an angle (called toe-screwing or tow-nailing). An even stronger connection and a sharp-looking aesthetic detail is to notch the rafter bottoms so they fit over the beams with a lap joint. The rafters can be toe-nailed or toe-screwed to the beams. The following course of purlins will help keep the tops of the rafters in vertical alignment. Rafters are commonly spaced 16 to 20 inches apart. The top layer of purlins (AKA louvers or runners) is installed 90 degrees to the rafters. The purlins are usually made from 2x2, 2x3 or 2x4 boards standing on edge. The taller boards can be toe-screwed, while 2x2 size purlins can be face-nailed from the top. Corner bracing is typically installed to arrest movement between the posts and beams. The corner bracing strengthens the pergola and maintains squareness of the frame. Details The shape and contours of your corner-bracing boards and rafter tails present two opportunities to add some customized character to your pergola. You might prefer angular, geometrical shapes for your rafter tails or softer swoops and curves for a more ornate look. The size and shape of the corner-bracing boards can complement the pergola style in similar fashion. Skilled carpenters might even challenge themselves by engineering mortise-and-tenon connections to give the post-and-beam connection a timber-frame look. For an all-wood look, you can countersink the metal fasteners and conceal them with stain-matched wood plugs. On the other hand, you might want to purchase painted decorative hardware that serves as ornate accents to make your pergola more distinct. The aesthetic details that you incorporate into your pergola design is where you can elevate your project to a thing of beauty. One stylish option is to enhance your pergola with decorative hardware. The new outdoor selections from Simpson Strong-Tie provide secure structural attachments and amazing looks with premium corrosion resistance. SIDE NOTE: Tail Spin Many pergola designs have the tails of the horizontal boards cut with a decorative pattern. To put your own spin on the design of your rafter tails, practice sketching a few different trial shapes on paper. The tails give the pergola its signature design and can be cut to a curved, scalloped profile, a more angular design, or anything in between. The only rule of thumb is that the longest edge of the boards should be positioned at the top. The rest is up to you. When you’ve decided on your design, cut out a cardboard template to transfer onto the board. Cut the board to length, then trace the decorative shape on its end. Make the cut using a combination of a handheld circular saw and jigsaw (for making tight curves and intersecting cuts). Once the first board is cut, use it as a template to cut the tails on each matching board. The beams, rafters and purlins can have different tail patterns, but each type of board should match.

Ceiling fans improve airflow, provide a cooling breeze to a stuffy room, and I don't understand how some people fall asleep without them. During a recent ceiling remodel, the existing fan was ruled stylistically "out of date" and scheduled for replacement. We upgraded with a Casa Vieja Terrazzo model from Lamps PLUS, which has a sleek, contemporary look, a dimmable light and remote-control operation. Remove the Old Fan Obligatory safety note: When working on a ceiling fan or any hard-wired electrical appliance, turn off its power at the breaker box. Test the wires to ensure the power is off, then secure the breaker box while you're working. You'll probably need a ladder to do this job. Fans vary greatly by design, so the removal and replacement procedure differs somewhat among models. Yet, they all have commonalities, including a mounting bracket that attaches to the electrical box, and a canopy that encloses the wiring. Step 1 First step is to remove any bulbs or glassware associated with the fan's light fixture. This prevents accidental breakage, decreases the fan's weight, and makes it a smaller, more manageable package. The glass pieces might be held by retaining screws, or they could be threaded and simply twist off the fan. Step 2 Next, remove the canopy. These are typically held in place with small Phillips-head screws. The fan shown had four screws. I removed the two fixed screws, then loosened the two screws in the keyhole slots, which allowed me to twist and lower the canopy. Step 3 Once the wiring is exposed, I suggest that inexperienced DIY'ers snap a photo of the connections for reconnection with the new fan. Separate the wires by removing the wire nuts and untwisting the copper connections within them. Now, it's time to remove the fan body. Step 4 The fan shown utilizes a common mounting method for modern fans. The fan has a "hanger ball" at the top of the down-rod, which is a thick projection similar to the head of a nail. The tapered mounting bracket has an open slot on the side. Step 5 To remove the fan, lift the entire unit so the hanger ball dislodges from its nesting position, allowing you to slip it through the open slot, which frees the fan from the ceiling. You can donate the fan to a local housing charity or toss it into the garbage if it's in bad shape. But wait! Not all old fans utilize this mounting-bracket method, so be prepared for some deviations. Some older models used a metal hook on the hanger ball that supports the fan's weight by hooking over a metal loop in a ceiling plate. I've also replaced fans that connected to a ceiling bracket using a metal dowel and cotter pin. Although mounting methods vary, be prepared to carry the full weight of the fan unit once you've freed it of its mounting mechanism. The motor is the heaviest component, and depending on model might require two people to lift it down from the ceiling. You can also remove the fan blades before dismounting to lessen the weight and "shrink" its size. The blades are usually fastened with screws, so simply unscrew them individually. With the fan out of the way, next step is to unscrew the mounting bracket (or ceiling plate) from the ceiling, then hopefully you're ready for new fan installation! Hold on. Hit the brakes... Step 6 Evidently, the last person who installed a fan in this room skipped the following section of the instructions. You, however, should not. Per electrical code (and common sense), you need a stronger ceiling box to hold a heavy fan in motion than the flimsy plastic one required to hold a simple light fixture. Ever seen a wobbly fan swinging precariously from its ceiling mounting? If mounted to an old plastic box, that wobbly fan's mounting screws are probably in process stripping out of the plastic housing, so you'd better wear a helmet. Step 7 Since the previous fan installer didn't heed such sound advice, I ventured into the attic to pry loose the old plastic light box from where it was nailed to the ceiling joist. This is a standard requirement when you upgrade from a light fixture to a ceiling fan. If you find yourself doing the same, first cut away any caulk or paint around the box's rim in the ceiling of the room below. Step 8 A ceiling fan requires a metal ETL-listed mounting box. The fan’s outlet box must be fastened to the house framing (with the appropriate fasteners) to support the moving weight of the fan--at least 50 lbs. Step 9 The Raco fan box I purchased comes with an L-shaped bracket. To install, fasten the bracket firmly into the framing using wood screws at least 1-1/2 in. long, then bolt the box into the threaded holes of the bracket. Make sure the bottom edge of the box aligns flush with the ceiling. Note: If your ideal fan location doesn't align next to a ceiling joist, you can install cross-brace 2x blocking between joists from which to hang the box, or use an adjustable metal support bar (see side note). Hang the New Fan When working on a new fan, most manufacturers recommend using a handheld screwdriver rather than a powered one. This is so you don't misalign any screw threads or strip out a fastener head by using too much torque. While that makes sense, I still use a power driver because it saves time, but I set the tool to its lowest torque setting, and so should you. Step 10 The replacement fan shown uses a very similar mounting system as the one we removed. First, mount the hanger bracket into the new fan box using the provided hardened metal bolts. Step 11 Next, assemble the fan components according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I won't spend a great deal of time on the specifics, because assembly will vary somewhat among fan models. All fans will include a hanger mechanism, canopy, down-rod, motor, blades and usually a light. A fan's down-rod is often sold in optional sizes. The down-rod works double duty to support the fan's weight while also serving as a wire chase for the fan. So, if you have a high ceiling but want your fan to hang 8 feet above the floor, then you can order a longer down-rod to account for ceiling height. The Casa Vieja model shown had the choice of seven down-rod sizes, measuring up to 72 inches to accommodate 16-ft. ceilings. Step 12 Install the new fan and motor assembly, in this case by hooking the hanger ball into the registration slot of the mounting bracket. With this model, you rotate the hanger ball until the check groove drops into the slot and seats firmly. Step 13 With the weight supported by the bracket, your hands are now free to make the wiring connections. Always refer to the fan manufacturer’s instructions for specific wiring guidelines. For example, the fan shown included remote-control operation. This required me to connect the remote-control receiver to the wiring. The receiver tucks into the mounting bracket. Step 14 The wiring procedure will be fairly straightforward: Twist together the stripped ends of the color-matched and ground wires, then secure them with a UL-listed wire nut (and wrap with electrical tape for extra safety). Once wiring is complete, gently push the connections into the electrical box. Step 15 With all connections complete, cover with the canopy, which usually fastens with screws and conceals all wiring and mounting components. This fan included a stubby screwdriver that makes it easy to tighten the canopy screws situated so closely to the motor. Step 16 Next comes some key components—the fan blades. A screwdriver is all you need to fasten them in place. Step 17 Finally, install the light kit. This Casa Vieja model utilizes a dimmable LED light fixture that simply plugs together with a push-fit connection, along with a soft diffuser that screws in place. Final step Last step is to reconnect the breaker and turn on the power. In this case, the fan's lighting and three-speed operation can be controlled by wireless remote. SIDE NOTES Fan Fact: They Cool People, Not Homes Although a ceiling fan is a "cooling" device, the operation of its electrical motor actually adds a small degree of heat to the room. Ceiling fans provide evaporative cooling and aid convective cooling, but they're only useful when they move air over someone's skin. If the airflow generated by a fan isn't hitting anyone's skin, it's only making the space warmer with no cooling benefit. So, when no one is in the room, turn off the fan to conserve energy. What Size Fan Do You Need? If a room's longest wall is 12′ or less, use a 36″ diameter ceiling fan. If a room's longest wall is 12′ to 15′, use a 42″ diameter ceiling fan. Installing a Ceiling Fan Between Joists To hang a ceiling fan between joists, consider using a Fan Box with Support Bar. Made by companies such as Raco and Westinghouse, they support ceiling fans between structural members safely and securely where access is limited. Engineered for installation during remodeling or new construction, the mounting brace can be installed in finished ceilings through a 4-inch hole. The brace allows easy expansion, adjustable from 16 to 24 inches. The electrical box can be positioned anywhere on the bar to fit your project needs. (Photo © Hubbell Raco) Installing a Ceiling Fan Over a Joist If a ceiling joist crosses the spot where you want to hang a light fixture or ceiling fan, you’ll need to use a saddle box instead of a standard electrical box. The saddle box is shaped with an indention that wraps around the joist but still provides the code-required wire housing of a junction box. For ceiling fans, the junction box should usually be made of metal to ensure a firm thread connection with the fan’s mounting bolts. With a saddle box, however, the fan will be installed with screws driven through the box and into the joist, rather than fastened to the box with bolts. #ceilingfan #ceilingfaninstallation #faninstallation #howto #saddlebox #ceilingfans #ceilingfan #lightfixture #lightfixtures #install #tipsandtricks #howto #handyman #construction #homedecor #homeimprovement #homeimprovements #diyhomeprojects #diyhomeimprovement #diyhomedecor #homemaintenance #propertymanagement #realestate

(guest post by Jeremy Merchant) Alabama is known for its varying weather conditions, meaning you should expect the unexpected. This makes the importance of having the proper house structure, including the roof, critical. In the summers, temperatures can be scorching, and the weather outside humid, while winters are typically mild in temperature, but full of rainfall. And don't be surprised if, during the warmer months, there are thunderstorms, hurricanes, or even tornadoes. To combat these harsh conditions, one must make sure their roof is equipped for the job. Understanding Alabama’s Weather Though the climate varies in Alabama, the state is typically known for its humid and muggy summer and mild winters with heavy rainfall. This weather is caused by the state's geographical location, which causes more meteorological events than other states in the US. Here are some of the common weather patterns in Alabama. In winter, temperatures can drop below freezing, but snowfall is rare. Common Extreme Weather Events Hurricanes Alabama is located along the Gulf Coast, making it more prone to hurricane impacts. Even though hurricanes weaken the further they move away from the shore, they still can cause major damage with high wind speeds, heavy rainfall, and storm surges. This can cause damage to homes, and buildings, and affect coastal erosion. Tornados Alabama is located in Dixie Alley, an area in the southeastern United States known for its higher frequency of tornadoes. In spring, tornadoes present an even higher risk to those living in the area. Due to the state's geographical location to the Gulf of Mexico, it is overall at more risk of extreme weather conditions. This makes it essential to consider all roofing options when building structures such as homes or business buildings. Weather Challenges for Alabama Roofs One of the biggest challenges that roofs face in Alabama is the heat. The constant sun exposure and high temperatures dictate how long roofs will last. One major problem is the degradation of the roofing materials over time. These materials can become brittle and make them more susceptible to leaks and cracks. Depending on the material, roofs can deteriorate from constant sun exposure and heat. Besides the temperatures, the higher risk of hurricanes and tornadoes can cause problems with certain types of roofing. Most commonly, high winds can both blow off the roofing material itself or blow other objects into it, causing damage. Additionally, heavy rain with these high winds can cause water damage to your roof or, even worse, to the inside of your property. Though snow is not common, it is possible in Alabama. Most roofs in warmer states are not engineered for heavy snowfall or extreme cold temperatures. This means if snow were to accumulate, the weight could cause roofs to cave in, tearing down the surrounding construction with it. To help prevent any roof damage, regular inspection and maintenance are important. After big storms, always check to make sure your roof is free from damage, even if you don't see anything immediately noticeable. Most Common Roofing Materials in Alabama While some roofing options may seem to be better choices for the Alabama climate, they all come with their pros and cons. Asphalt Shingles Pros: ● Affordable and available ● Easy to install and repair ● Available in a variety of color options and styles Cons: ● Requires regular maintenance ● Can be damaged by heat and extreme UV exposure ● Shorter lifespan compared to other roofing materials ● Not ideal for humid climates Weather Resistance Though asphalt shingles perform great against rain and hail, heat and UV exposure can cause extreme damage. Strong winds from tornadoes or hurricanes can also damage the shingles and cause them to detach. With regular maintenance and inspections asphalt shingles, still serve as a base-level roofing material in Alabama. Metal Roofs Pros: ● Extremely durable, leading to a longer lifespan ● Fire resistant, as well as resistant to insect damage and rot ● Energy efficient ● Lightweight and can be installed over other roofing materials Cons: ● More expensive ● Can be dented in hail storms ● Professionals are required to install ● Noisy during heavy rain Weather Resistance Metal roofs are a leading roof choice in Alabama, especially in the upstate areas. Local Huntsville roofing contractor, Advanced Roofing, speaks highly of metal roofing and often recommends it to homeowners in the Huntsville area. While it can be a pricier option, metal roofing is extremely resilient, withstands extreme weather, and can even help save energy during the hotter months of the year. Tile and Slate Roofs Pros: ● Elegant appearance ● Very durable ● Environmentally friendly ● Minimal maintenance Cons: ● More expensive upfront ● Heavy and might need additional support ● Fragile Weather Resistance Stone materials have a natural ability to withstand heavy rain, snow, and ice without deteriorating or losing their structural integrity. The dense nature of tile and slate provides excellent protection against hail, offering reliable defense against potential impacts. Flat and Low Slope Roofing Pros: ● Modern appearance ● Cost-effective ● Ideal for certain architectural designs Cons: ● Prone to leaks ● Minimal water drainage ● Not suitable for heavy rainfall ● Requires special weatherproofing Weather Resistance Flat and low-slope roofing systems face unique challenges when it comes to weather resistance. Proper installation and material selection are critical to ensure their ability to withstand rain and snow. Ponding water can be an issue on flat roofs, increasing the risk of leaks and potential structural damage. Preventive Measures and Maintenance Tips for Alabama Roofs No matter which type of roofing material you use, it is essential to perform routine maintenance and inspection checks to extend longevity. After major storms, inspect the roof even if you don’t expect any damage. If you do suspect damage, it's a good idea to have a professional come out to fix any problems. For high winds and hurricanes, take extra precautions to ensure your roof is properly stabilized: Security—Fastening the raised edges or corners of shingles, tiles, flashing can help prevent them from blowing away. Strap It Down—For extra measures or emergency situations, you can even use straps to hold down roofing materials until they can be repaired by a professional. The Right Materials—Using impact-resistant roofing materials like metal or concrete tiles can ensure your roof stays protected. Note that heat damage can also cause ventilation issues. While Alabama doesn't have much snow or cold weather, heat damage can lead to heat loss in the colder months. This means once it does snow, ice damage can occur if heat has already impacted the roof. Additionally, it can cause heat from inside the home to escape more easily, increasing your energy bill. Lastly, it is essential to make sure your roof has the proper drainage system in place to protect it from leaks. This means having well-maintained gutter systems that help redirect water off the roof to prevent pooling. Regular maintenance of gutter systems is essential to extend the longevity of your roof. Choosing the Right Roofing Contractor in Alabama If you are looking for a new roof or tips on how to take care of your current roof, start by asking a reputable local professional. They will have the best recommendations on both how to accommodate your wants and needs, while also considering the local weather challenges. The local part here is very important, as is essential that you employ the services of a professional who understands the immediate area. An upstate roofer would be more experienced in roof damage caused by tornadoes, because upstate Alabama sees more tornado activity than the coast, whereas the coast is likely to see worse hurricane effects than the rest of the state. Alabama's diverse weather, from scorching summers to hurricanes and heavy rains, presents many challenges for roofing. Proper material selection, preventive measures like insulation and ventilation, and choosing experienced contractors are crucial in ensuring resilient roofs and the longevity of your roof.

[Sponsored post] National Nail’s new CAMO BLOCK is a lightweight, heavy-duty polyolefin deck block for building decks, platforms, and other exterior projects–virtually eliminating the need for cement blocks. “We are passionate about offering our users products that make their jobs faster, easier, and better. The CAMO BLOCK does just that. At just over 2 lbs, the BLOCK is significantly lighter in weight than traditional concrete blocks, so you can easily transport them in one trip to the truck and on the jobsite,” said Greg Groenhout, CAMO Product Manager. “It is the most versatile deck block on the market, accepting 4x4 and 6x6 wood posts, 2x wood joists, and 2 in. metal joists. And because the BLOCK is precision engineered to fit these sizes, you get a snug fit without the effort and headache of chiseling out the channel.” CAMO BLOCK is a lightweight, heavy-duty alternative to concrete deck blocks. Made of long-lasting polyolefin, the BLOCK will not chip or crack, even in cold weather. It’s made from recycled material and can be recycled at the end of its life. Each BLOCK is precision molded to fit standard lumber specifications without the need for modification on the job. It features ribs and weep holes to direct water away from the substructure and prevent buildup, rot and mold. It is load-rated to support 1800 PSI. CAMO BLOCK is designed to build freestanding decks from 5-½ to 30 inches high. They can be used for various platform profiles including low-profile, raised-profile, variable-height, and hybrid-profile. They can also be used for rooftop decks, landings, walkways, sheds, and dog houses. They can be installed on any flat and firm surface, including uneven ground with some leveling. CAMO BLOCK is backed by a 30-year Limited Warranty. Learn more about CAMO BLOCK at camofasteners.com.

[Sponsored post] WiseBond® Epoxy Systems is America’s #1 Deep Pour Casting Resin and Table Top Epoxy made right here in the USA! One of the key benefits of our epoxy products is their ability to create crystal-clear, bubble-free finishes. They are specially formulated to self-level, eliminating imperfections that can form during the cure process. This results in a smooth, glass-like finish that showcases the details of your project flawlessly! All of our epoxy lines come clear as water for clear epoxy projects or can be tinted with any of our colorants for effects that will blow your mind! Whether your project is a live-edge river table, an object or memorabilia casting, a bar top, countertop, or even make drink tumblers and jewelry—we’ve got you covered! In the need for a thick-casting, deep-pour epoxy? Try WiseBond® Deep Pour epoxy for its versatility and durability for your 2-inch-thick river table or up to 8-inch-thick object casting. River tables can easily be poured with just ONE single pour up to 2¨ deep of clear or tinted liquid epoxy resin; and if the epoxy cure is managed well, even THICKER up to 3 and even 4-inch depths! WiseBond® Deep Pour can be used in a wide variety of epoxy applications, from creating striking resin art pieces to building sturdy furniture and wicked bar tops! What’s even more awesome is that you will never need to pour multiple layers of epoxy to reach your required depth. If you’re in need of a thin epoxy for coating, check out our WiseBond® Bar & Table Top Epoxy which is a super wet gloss epoxy for countertops, tables and bars. This table-top epoxy is self-leveling with an extreme high gloss finish that is UV stable for surface flood coatings. Our thin pour epoxy produces a rich super gloss look and is typically used for a 1/8 in. thick finish coat even for jewelry and drink tumbler cups. It delivers a flood coat ideal for applications requiring a high level of see-through transparency and high gloss. It can also be tinted with mica powders, dyes, and alcohol pigments for stunning faux marble and artistic finishes. Stop by the WiseBond® website and GETCHA some! Learn more: Video—Beginner Tips for Wood Epoxy Projects

It’s the season for new tools and home-building products! Design & Construction Week’s tenth anniversary attracted record-breaking attendance this year. More than 200,000 housing and design professionals from across the globe gathered in Las Vegas January 31-February 2 for the co-location of the NAHB International Builders’ Show and the NKBA Kitchen & Bath Industry Show—plus the three co-dated industry shows, the National Hardware Show, The International Surfaces Event, and the Las Vegas Winter Market. The event gave DCW attendees an amazing opportunity to visit five industry trade shows with just one badge. Thousands of products were on display, including many new introductions that will set trends for the home-improvement industry in the years to come. Here’s a look at new technology, tools, and building materials for 2023. RevealCut Arrow Fastener, manufacturer of the world’s best-selling staple gun, the T50, unveiled Arrow RevealCut, a new all-in-one precision workstation that allows ceiling installation professionals to cut acoustic ceiling tiles in a fraction of the time and at a fraction of the cost with precise results and minimal waste.The new tool changes how acoustic ceiling tiles are cut every day by eliminating the need to cut them with a straight edge and a utility knife. RevealCut delivers up to 80 percent in labor savings. A typical 2-foot ceiling tile can be cut to size and finished with a factory-grade profiled edge in less than 30 seconds. RevealCut is available in two convenient sizes: one for 2-foot tiles and a larger version for up to 4-foot tiles. The workstation cuts 98 percent of all common ceiling tile sizes with ease and efficiency by using an integrated precision-cutting blade system to cut factory-grade profiled edges. Visit www.RevealCut.com. inFINE Column Shower Winner of the Best of KBIS, for best Bath (Gold) and for the judge’s choice Impact Award, the inLINE column shower’s sleek and elegant design is 100-percent made in Italy with high-quality materials. It features adjustable temperature of hot and cold water in one movement, a gentle rain-producing water jet for extra comfort, quick-connect and disconnect technology, and it disassembles without having to shut off the water system, making it ideal for outdoor installations including pools, spas, boats and yachts. With its limited water consumption, inFINE consumes only 6 liters per minute. Visit https://www.sistemaingenius.it/. Natural Polymers Ultra-Pure Spray Foam Insulation Owens Corning introduced its comprehensive insulation product line at the International Builders Show (IBS), with a special focus on the complementary spray foam products of recently acquired Natural Polymers, LLC. Designed by industry-leading chemists, the spray foam product line supports increasingly stringent energy codes and homeowner demands for products that contribute to healthier indoor air quality. Ultra-Pure spray foam is designed to minimize odors and VOC emissions before, during and after application. Learn more at https://owenscorning.com . ForceField Weather Barrier System Georgia-Pacific showcased the ForceField® Weather Barrier System which has been approved for sloped roof applications. For builders, this equals the potential reduction of weather-related challenges and delays, a simplification of construction, and help toward drying in residential and multifamily structures faster compared to traditional systems. ForceField® Premium Tape, brand-new for IBS 2023, is designed to seal joints and seams against air and moisture infiltration in walls and sloped roofs. It conforms easily around curves and corners to provide excellent bonding. Visit www.buildgp.com. DaVinci Multi-Width Slate Roofing For the most authentic-looking slate roof without the weight or maintenance hassles, DaVinci Multi-Width Slate is the answer. All DaVinci products are made of virgin resins, UV and thermal stabilizers, along with a highly specialized fire retardant. These state-of-the-art tiles create enduring beauty on a home or commercial project. The 1/2-inch tiles are available in 12-, 10-, 9-, 7-and 6-inch widths and can be installed at 6-, 7-,7 1/2-, and 8-inch exposures. Installation can be straight or staggered, and the tiles arrive at the job site bundled and presorted by color and size, eliminating guesswork by the installers. Visit https://www.davinciroofscapes.com/. Weather Shield VUE Hinged Patio Door Weather Shield recently expanded its VUE Collection, an ultra-modern, all-aluminum product line, to include the new Hinged Patio Door. The new door system joins with the Collection’s existing Multi-Slide Patio Doors to create beautiful glass gateways that combine expansive outdoor views with the ability to maximize space and seamlessly blend into most room configurations. Available in customizable heights up to 12 feet tall, they are also constructed with a unique polyamide design that helps prevent thermal bowing in addition to promoting exceptional thermal and structural performances. Visit https://weathershield.com/. Maxterra Magnesium Oxide (MgO) panels Maxterra MgO panels from NexGen Building Products are disaster resistant, eco-friendly, energy-efficient, non-toxic, and cost-effective. Maxterra can be used as a direct replacement for plywood and OSB for exterior sheathing, interior and exterior gypsum panels, subfloors, floor underlayment, elevator shafts, stairwells, and tile backer panels. Maxterra wall and floor assemblies have excellent fire ratings, sound absorption, and impact resilience. Visit www.nexgenbp.com. HomePower PRO Plus Solar Powered Indoor-Safe Generators Geneverse introduces the industry's most efficient and versatile battery backup system that can be converted into an in-grid generator system in minutes: The HomePower PRO Plus. Great for up to 7 days of emergency backup power on a single charge, and with the option to recharge through solar panels for more energy independence. Simply pair your Geneverse with the Geneverse App (free and easy to use) and plug in various appliances to the unit to see how much energy they draw. Instead of having the highest energy-guzzlers in your home run from a wall outlet during peak hours, Geneverse can allow you to power smarter, cheaper, and more sustainably by running these appliances during this time. For more information visit www.geneverse.com. ­­ Schlage Encode Plus Smart WiFi Deadbolt The Schlage Encode Plus Smart WiFi Deadbolt, the company’s newest smart lock innovation, offers consumers unparalleled flexibility for even greater convenience and security. The Schlage Encode Plus lock is among the first to support Apple’s latest enhancement to the HomeKit experience with home keys capability. With home keys in Apple Wallet, consumers can simply tap to unlock the Schlage Encode Plus deadbolt using their iPhone and Apple Watch for easy and secure access to their home. Visit www.Schlage.com. Advanced Windows from PGT Innovations and Corning Inc. Two new window products, PGT Innovations’ Thin Triple Insulated Glass Unit (Thin Triple IGU) and Diamond Glass, both feature Corning Architectural Technical Glass (ATG). Thin Triple IGU uses two outer panes of traditional glass with an internal pane of ultra-thin Corning ATG. Thin Triple IGU aligns with new energy and efficiency values under the Inflation Reduction Act and Energy Star Version 7 guidelines. Diamond Glass, a laminated ultra-lightweight glass, weighs up to 45 percent less and is three times more scratch resistant than traditional laminated glass. Diamond Glass technology, set to become the standard glass used within PGT Innovations’ WinDoor product portfolio, can be used for laminated or laminated insulated windows or doors. Visit www.pgtinnovations.com. Danver Outdoor Kitchens Cosmopolitan Collection The recently introduced Cosmopolitan Collection is expanding with the addition of the Cosmopolitan Store, a sleek new buffet with optional integrated induction capabilities. The new Cosmopolitan Buffet table provides a multi-purpose prep, cooking, and storage space for outdoor entertaining, featuring the optional Invisacook induction technology—perfect for small spaces like balconies where a grill may not be possible. The Cosmopolitan Collection now includes five product offerings: the Cosmopolitan Prep, Eat, Cook, Store and Buffet. Visit https://danver.com/. Bosch ProFactor 18V SDS-max 1-5/8" Rotary Hammer Bosch Power Tools introduced its newest concrete rotary hammer lineup. The ProFactorTOR 18V SDS-max 1-5/8-inch Rotary Hammer (GBH18V-40C) offers superior performance for tough concrete work. Powered by the CORE18V 8-Ah or 12-Ah batteries, this hammer outperforms its corded counterpart, the Bosch 11264EVS. The new GBH18V-40C improves on its predecessor with a portable cordless design that brings hard-hitting power to the jobsite. With features like KickBack Control and an Anti-Vibration System, the hammer also offers improved comfort when working in concrete. Visit www.boschtools.com. Milwaukee M18 Variable Speed Die Grinder Milwaukee Tool unveils the next generation in cordless die grinding with the new M18 FUEL Variable Speed Braking Die Grinder, including one model with a Paddle Switch w/ ONE-KEY and another with a Slide Switch. Delivering the next advancement in power, performance, and versatility, these new die grinders feature enhanced safety, precision and control. Providing 11A corded performance without the frustrations of hoses, cords, and compressors, the grinders are designed to help cut the cord of AC and pneumatic die grinding to drive more productivity. Both new die grinders feature a RapidStop Brake for enhanced user safety, stopping most accessories in less than two seconds. Combining three exclusive innovations—the PowerState brushless motor, RedLithium battery pack, and RedLink Plus intelligence—these new die grinders provide the versatility and performance to remove material faster than a corded die grinder. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Metabo HPT’s 18V MultiVolt Cordless Brushless Impact Driver The18V MultiVolt Cordless Brushless Impact Driver (model WH18DEX) measures only 4.72 in. long and weighs just 2.0 lbs. This impact driver has the power to drive stubborn screws and bolts and can do so in tight spaces. It’s part of the expanding MultiVolt System of 18V and 36V power tools, which can be powered by the compact 18V battery or go longer with a flexible 18V/36V MultiVolt battery (sold separately) to double runtime per charge. The brushless motor delivers more runtime and extended durability with essentially no maintenance. It delivers up to 1,549 in-lbs of torque, 3,100 RPM and 3,400 impacts per minute It’s also backed by Metabo HPT’s Lifetime Lithium-Ion tool body warranty. Visit https://www.metabo-hpt.com/. Worx 20V MakerX Combo Kit Although Valentine’s Day celebrations soon will be replete with bling, bonbons and bouquets, there are many hobbyists and handypersons who would prefer to unwrap a versatile, portable and cordless tool. The Worx 20V MakerX Rotary Tool and Airbrush Combo Kit includes a MakerX hub, Power Share battery, 45 accessories with case, charger and storage bag. Each compact tool in the system connects to the power hub via a 4-ft. cord. The hub is powered by the 20V, 1.5 Ah, Max Lithium, Power Share battery. The tools, themselves, don’t contain batteries, so they're lighter weight, better balanced, leaner and more compact than other models. Micro-ergonomic grips also make the tools easier and more comfortable to handle, especially over extended periods. Better yet, the portable hub eliminates the need to be connected to an electrical outlet. Just pick up the kit and take it to the project location or workstation. The hub has an on/off switch and a variable-speed dial, from 5,000 to 35,000 rpm, depending on the tool that’s connected. Also included in the kit is a 20V MakerX Air Brush that weighs only 0.62 lbs. It features a dual-function trigger control that separates air flow and paint volume. This allows the user to go from a wide spray pattern to a fine line, or vice versa, in a single stroke Visit www.worx.com.

[Sponsored post] Titebond Pro-Grade Caulk is a multi-purpose, acrylic latex caulk for interior use. This is a water-based caulk, so it tools easily, dries quickly and cleans up with water. It is paintable with a water-based paint and once cured, its seal is water resistant. It contains no plasticizers or phthalates and offers unbeatable adhesion to most common building materials. Titebond Pro-Grade Caulk is ideal for repairing cracks and filling gaps for interior applications and pre-paint preparation. It seals wood, metal, glass, masonry, aluminum, brick and most common building materials. Got some outdoor work to do? Titebond Pro-Grade Plus Caulk is a multi-purpose, siliconized acrylic latex caulk for interior and exterior use. This easy-to-use formula dries quickly and cleans up with water. It offers great weather-resistance, has a water-resistant seal once cured, tools easily and can be painted in two hours. It offers unbeatable adhesion to most common building materials including wood, metal, glass, tile, drywall, plaster, concrete, plastic, fiberglass, masonry, aluminum and brick. Pro Grade Plus is also available in seven colors! Learn more at the Titebond Pro Grade Caulk website.

by Jim Butters & Matt Weber We expect our roofs to protect us from wind, rain, hail, UV rays and even falling trees, and those elements can take a toll over time. A very strong storm can shorten that time. Roof damage can pose an unavoidable expense for a homeowner, so it makes sense to be prepared and know how to handle it. Whether you’ll be repairing damage or replacing the roof, there is a lot to consider. For expert advice on what to do when disaster strikes or when the roofing simply wears out, HIR turned to Jim Butters of Advanced Roofing and Metal Works in Birmingham, Alabama. Before the Storm “Do your homework before a storm hits,” says Butters on the value of preparation. “Now is the time to do a few things and know a few things.” Start by finding some dependable contractors. Every homeowner should have a few key companies in their contact list; a reputable plumber, a reliable electrician, a solid HVAC company, tree-removal company, and a solid roofing contractor are the “must haves” in our book. Know the particulars regarding your homeowner’s insurance policy. The worst time to find out there is exclusionary fine print in your policy is after a tree crashes into the living room or wind rips shingles off your roof. It’s also a good idea to know what your deductible is. That percentage option may have looked great when you were originally budgeting and choosing your policy, but now that a tree is resting on the dining room table, you might be wishing you had opted for a fixed specific deductible amount. Or, if you were one of those diligent people who opted for a “split deductible,” where some events trigger a fixed deductible and others trigger a percentage, you need to know what damages trigger which, and how much either is going to affect your checkbook. It might also be wise to review how much your deductible covers on your January ’To-Do’ list each year, at least until you get a feel for your home’s value as it relates to any type of percentage deductible. Not all roof damage is immediately obvious, and not all damage qualifies as “storm damage,” so it’s important to know what your insurance policy will cover. After the Storm It’s not uncommon to wake up the morning after a storm and find loose shingles strewn across the lawn. The first question is always: Did this come from my house or my neighbor’s? More questions follow. Is the damage due only to the storm, or is the roof getting old? Should you patch damaged areas, or is a total roof replacement required? First, assess your situation. “Your first impulse may be to grab a ladder,” says Butters, regarding DIY homeowners, “but should you? Our recommendation is no. First and foremost, it could be dangerous. Multi-story homes and steep roofs pose challenges we don’t recommend the average homeowner take on. Secondly, we see a lot of roof issues created by well intended homeowners or handymen who don’t know the ins and outs of correctly traversing a roof, and insurance doesn’t cover homeowner-inflicted damage. A better option is to grab a pair of binoculars.” Hail damage marked on a roof. The main expanse of the roof (called the roof field) is usually covered with shingles, metal, tiles or wood shakes. With asphalt roofs, look for shingles that are slipped, missing, or not lying flat. If you notice discolored shingles, that can also indicate a problem, but it most likely isn’t storm related. If you have a tile or slate roof, look for any missing tiles, or tiles or slate that have slipped out of position, especially along the ridge line. Look for cracked or chipped tiles on the field. If you spot any of these things, it’s time to call a qualified tile or slate roofer (no, not all roofers are qualified for tile or slate installations). Never walk on the tile yourself, and don’t believe anyone who tells you a drone inspection can find all of the wind damage on a tile roof. On wood-shake roofs, look for shingles that are shifted, slipped, cracked or missing. On metal roofs, look for seams that are not laying flat, bent edges or missing fasteners. If you spot any of these things after a good windy storm, it’s time to call a roofer. The vertical board running along the edge of the roof line is called the fascia. This area can sometimes be affected by storm damage due to flying debris, or gutters twisted by extremely strong winds. The scope of work involved in roof replacement typically requires multiple installers working in concert. Shown here is Jim Butter’s Advanced Roofing and Metal Works crew installing synthetic shake from Davinci Roofscapes. After looking over the roof from outside your home, it’s time to hit the attic. Be careful to step only on solid framing while inside. “You don’t want to drop in on your wife in the kitchen via an unannounced crash through the ceiling,” warns Butters. While inside the attic, do you see any rays of sunshine peeking through the roof? Using your flashlight, do you see any funky stains on the insulation or attic floor (interior ceiling). Do you detect any odd smells floating around? If you find these things but didn’t find anything on the outer roof, then odds are high you have some maintenance issues. If you found issues on the outside, these things can confirm your exterior findings. You Found Damage. What’s Next? On discovering roof damage, most homeowners impulsively pick up the phone and call their insurance company. “But hold up,” says Butters. “Anytime you call and say ‘hi, I have storm damage,’ most insurance companies will put a little note in your file, but we’ve learned that word ‘storm’ can mysteriously disappear after the insurance adjuster comes to investigate, and that can cause problems down the road for you claim. “Now, if your favorite oak tree is hanging out in your living room after a tornado touched down nearby, that’s one thing—you definitely have storm damage. However, those drips around your chimney in your den might not actually be storm damage, and you don’t want your insurance company noting you have damages due to ‘lack of maintenance,’ so this is when you’ll be thankful you have a qualified roofer in your contact list. By consulting a contractor first, you can get an accurate assessment with approximate cost to repair before you ever get your insurance company involved. You don’t want to call your insurance company for a $500.00 repair when your percentage deductible is $5,555.00, now do you?" That’s when the insurance assessment on your January "To-Do List" comes in handy. Assuming you’ve done your homework and have called that roofing contractor, you are solidly equipped to make an informed decision on whether to consult your insurance company or to pass and pay for the repairs firsthand. Editor’s Note: Jim Butters is a professional roof contractor and host of the “Your House Inside and Out” radio show on Talk 99.5 FM in Birmingham, Al. Find out more about his roofing business at Advanced Roofing and Metal Works or call (205) 822-3231. #diyroofing #atlasroofing #asphaltroof #asphaltroofing #asphaltshingles #shingleroof #diyroof #shingleinstallation #architecturalshingle