[Editor’s Note: The new book, Pretty Good House: A Guide to Creating Better Homes (Taunton Press) provides guidance on water and moisture management in residential home construction. The following article is an excerpt that discusses rain control layers, rain screens, vapor control layers, wall assemblies, roof assemblies and more.] A house is always under pressure, from gravity, wind, and air, but also from water either as a liquid trying to get in or as vapor trying to get out. A Pretty Good House is designed to manage moisture migration through the building assemblies. Failure to do so could mean condensation. And where there’s water,air, and organic material (such as the wood that comprises most of your building materials), conditions are ripe for mold, mildew, and decay. When designing a Pretty Good House, keep in mind the four control layers of a building envelope (as listed by the Building Science Corporation and shown in the diagram), know exactly where those layers are in the building assembly, and ensure their continuity. The thermal control layer mainly refers to insulation and the insulative values of windows and doors. A continuous air control layer seals the building envelope as tightly as possible, and it should be readily visible on construction drawings. In this article, we’ll focus on the other two critical control layers: the rain (or weather) control layer and the vapor control layer. RAIN CONTROL LAYER If you can’t keep the rain outside the building envelope, none of the other layers really matter. Therefore, making sure your house will shed water (whether as rain, snow, sleet, or hail) is more important than worrying about other control layers. This seems obvious, and any builder or architect worth a damn is going to be familiar with the traditional methods of shedding rain: pitched roofs, ice and water shield in the trouble areas, good flashing details, roof overhangs, proper lapping of membranes at window connections, and so on. A Pretty Good House takes this a little further. Our mantra when drawing up construction details is this: “Be the water drop.” Water doesn’t just fall straight down from the sky. Here in Maine, it exists in all three different states of matter and blows from every direction. And water has its own behavior when moving on surfaces: it clings, it spreads, it can be absorbed. A PGH detail will always shed the water away, will always work with gravity, and will always minimize or eliminate points of entry. A leak needs both water and a driving force. Usually, this force is gravity. Sometimes it’s wind. But what not-so-good detailers often fail to realize is that the pressure differential between inside and outside can be a substantial driving force. As a water drop passes a small air leak, let’s say at a window connection, wind can cause the house to suck that water drop into the wall assembly. We need to either stop that entry point or give the drop a way to escape (such as a rainscreen cavity behind the siding or trim). A PGH controls water below ground as well as above. Gone are the days when you would just pour a concrete foundation, backfill, and call it good. It’s a recipe for disaster. Concrete is porous and absorbs moisture even when fully cured. While concrete is,by and large, unaffected by the presence of water, it will allow water to permeate through it, leading to the wetting of critical building elements such as sill plates, flooring, and posts. We’ve all been in basements that have a musty smell. This odor is an indicator of higher relative humidity, and even though it may be the norm in basements, high humidity is a major contributor to both poor air quality and mold and rot. The first line of defense is the application of a good waterproofing membrane on the exterior of the foundation (this isn’t necessary if it is just a frost wall for a slab on grade because there’s no occupied space inside the walls). Available products include membranes and fluid-applied waterproofing. This is the equivalent of a weather control barrier, only below grade. Just as air pressure can drive water into a house, hydrostatic pressure (the pressure that ground water exerts on the foundation) can push water through any flaws in the foundation or waterproofing membrane.Creating a drainage plane on the exterior of the foundation wall is a fantastic second line of defense. This can mean backfilling with a fast-draining material(like crushed stone or gravel) or installing a dimpled membrane against the foundation wall. Water drops to the footing where it can be collected and drained to daylight. If this is impossible, then of course an old-fashioned sump pump can be used in the basement. But if you’re installing a sump pump, you’re already assuming some failures and ruling out the use of the basement for living space. Because concrete is thick, porous, and usually below grade, it almost always contains some moisture.Therefore, untreated wood (or any other organic material) should never come in direct contact with concrete. Through capillary action, concrete can lift water against the pull of gravity, sometimes many feet up a foundation wall. A PGH will prevent damage from this natural phenomenon by protecting vulnerable house parts with a capillary break. There are two common locations for a capillary break: across the top of the footing before the concrete wall gets poured, and at the top of the concrete wall where the wood framing begins. The footing is a wide band of concrete that is poured before the foundation walls. It is wider than the walls(typically 16 in. to 24 in. wide), and it helps distribute the weight of the foundation (and thus the house that sits on top of it). Sealing the top of the footing helps prevent water from wicking up into the wall from the ground below. RAINSCREENS One of the easiest and most important things you can do for a wall assembly is to include a rainscreen. A rainscreen is essentially an air gap behind the siding, vented at the top and bottom to allow airflow behind the siding. Rainscreens are usually made by installing strapping (vertical wood strips) between the water-resistant barrier (WRB) and the siding. Wood siding, if allowed to dry properly, will be far more dimensionally stable, hang onto its finish coatings much longer, and be far more durable. This goes for other painted products that can also absorb water, such as fiber cement siding, as well. When dealing with siding that needs more frequent nailing, such as shingles, a rainscreen matrix can be used. This material is a plastic mesh that creates an even surface for the installation of shingles while still maintaining an air gap behind them. VAPOR CONTROL LAYER We need to get a little technical to discuss water vapor in building assemblies. You can rely on physics to be the same at any given time in any climate zone in the country. If you want to make tea in Florida or in Alaska, you can put water in a tea kettle, put it on a heat source, wait for the water to heat up, and pour it in a cup. The tea kettle whistles because the water is changing state, from a liquid to a vapor. Why are we talking about tea in a building-science chapter?It’s because these simple principles of temperature,pressure, and the phases of water, will be discussed quite a bit and this little tea kettle will be a good reference point. BASIC PHYSICS OF PRESSURE AND THERMODYNAMICS Heat flows from hot to cold, or more accurately from high energy to low energy. If you set that hot teakettle on a trivet in a room that is 70ºF, eventually the high energy heat of the kettle will radiate out into the room. Eventually the tea kettle and the water inside will become the same temperature as the room. What is a little less intuitive is that vapor density acts in much the same way. While the water was piping hot in the kettle, you would expect the steam to escape as it moved from high pressure to low pressure. But what about when the kettle is at the same temperature as the air in the room? The whistling stopped, the steam stopped. Everything is equal, right? Well, no. There’s water in that kettle in a slightly contained environment. The vapor pressure in the kettle is slightly higher. That vapor seeks equilibrium with its surroundings, just like the heat. Water vapor is often the cause of moisture-related problems in buildings. Think of a PGH as a giant tea kettle. Imagine a cold winter day. Inside, there’s a family gathering. It’s warm. They’re making pasta downstairs, while Grandpa takes a long, hot shower upstairs. The humidity level is on the rise. It’s not uncomfortable for the occupants, but there is now substantial outward vapor pressure on the building envelope (like the pressure building in the tea kettle) and that pressure is from the warm higher humidity inside toward the colder lower humidity outside.When warm moist air finds a cold surface, it will condense, causing water to accumulate in some of the worst places for your building. A Pretty Good House will have a very well-defined vapor control layer that is continuous around the entire building envelope. It can be comprised of many different materials and membranes. Prior to the 1950s, no one really worried about vapor control, because houses were built from vapor-open materials and were so leaky and draughty that they had excellent drying potential. With the invention of plywood and drywall, houses started to get tighter and less permeable, and problems with moisture became more common. CONDENSATION: MOLD AND MILDEW’S IRRIGATION SYSTEM For mold or mildew to grow it needs two things: organic materials (food) and high relative humidity(water). It is nearly impossible to eliminate the food source, since we build our buildings mostly from organic materials (wood and cellulose) and the dust in the air is comprised mostly of organic material. So, we must manage the relative humidity or moisture content of our building and the building assemblies to minimize the risk of mold or mildew. The building envelopes of our homes are far less perfect, and more permeable, than the walls of the tea kettle. Each little leak is a place where vapor is allowed to escape and force its way into our building assemblies. This is why air sealing is far more important than vapor sealing. The amount of water and water vapor that can travel through a leak in the building envelope is far greater than the water vapor that can permeate through different materials. Once all the air leaks are sealed, however, we still have the problem of water vapor passing through permeable materials such as wood, insulation, or drywall. Therefore, it is important to understand exactly where the vapor control layer is located. For example, if there is no vapor barrier on the interior of a 2x6 stud wall, then the most vapor-impermeable material in the assembly is most likely the exterior sheathing. On a cold winter day this sheathing also will be cold, and if water vapor makes its way to this surface it will condense, form water droplets, be absorbed, and ultimately promote the growth of mold and mildew. In the 1970s, ‘80s, and ‘90s, installing polyethylene (“poly”) vapor barriers on the interior (just behind the drywall) was common practice to mitigate this problem. It had little success in all but the coldest climates and varying degrees of failures in all climates. Theoretically it was a good idea, but in practice the continuous membrane was usually flawed with uncountable staple and nail holes, tears, and other failures that allowed the moisture from the interior of the house to pass into the wall assemblies. Adding insult to injury, the poly greatly reduced the drying capacity of the wall and roof assemblies to the interior, trapping the moisture in what’s called a “vapor sandwich.” A PGH needs a better vapor control layer than that. Before we dig into methodology, let’s get some terminology out of the way. We’re going to be talking about vapor retarders, which are classified by how open they are to water vapor movement (as classified by the International Code Council and ASHRAE): •Class I vapor retarder, 0.1 perm or less (may also be called vapor barrier); vapor impermeable. •Class II vapor retarder, more than 0.1 perms and up to 1.0 perm; vapor semi-impermeable. •Class III vapor retarder, more than 1.0 perm and up to 10 perms; vapor semi-permeable. •Vapor permeable (or vapor open) is a material greater than 10 perms. WALL ASSEMBLIES There are four basic methods that a PGH designer can take to establish a vapor control layer within a wall assembly. •Vapor-variable membranes. These specialized plastics have pores that open and close based on relative humidity and are capable of regulating the transmission of water vapor. •Insulation as a control layer. Relying on the vapor-closed properties of certain insulation types(usually spray foam) to keep water vapor from reaching and condensing on the sheathing or other layers in the wall assembly. •Vapor-open assemblies. Ordering the layers of the wall assembly so that the most impermeable is in a warm part of a wall and safe from condensation. •Warm sheathing as vapor control layer. This is an “outsulation” approach, where the sheathing is used as the vapor control layer with the majority of the wall assembly’s insulation on the exterior of the sheathing. This approach keeps the sheathing(vapor control layer) warm, thereby greatly reducing the risk of condensation. VAPOR-VARIABLE MEMBRANES When you finished reading the previous chapter on building envelope basics, you may have come away thinking that double-stud construction is probably one of the best ways to create a high-performance wall assembly. But where is the vapor control? Everything you’ve read in this article would lead you to think that this is a dangerous assembly with the Class II sheathing on the extreme cold side of the assembly.If water vapor were to migrate through from the interior to that sheathing, it could condense and become active water within the wall. To reduce the mold risk of a wall assembly like this, we need a way to stop that vapor from entering the wall—a vapor control layer on the warm side of the wall. In the earlier days of PGH construction, some builders and architects addressed this by following the airtight drywall approach as prescribed by the Building Science Corporation at the time. Essentially,this means using the painted drywall in combination with air-sealing gaskets at penetrations as the vapor control layer. However, with the advent of more modern materials, that method is rarely used today.Instead, builders opt for vapor-variable membranes.These membranes are applied to the interior of the assembly (just behind the finish material). But unlike poly used in previous decades, these membranes are composed of materials that become less permeable as the humidity increases on its interior side and more permeable as the air dries. This creates a membrane that slowly opens up to allow assemblies to dry to the interior when that option is possible while still inhibiting vapor entry from the interior. There are a number of membranes like this on the market today, including offerings from Pro Clima,CertainTeed, Siga, Delta, and Rothoblaas. Hopefully there will be even more in the future. They’re all a little different, but in general they are designed to have low permeability when the relative humidity is low and higher permeability when the humidity increases. The idea is that the membrane will block vapor from migrating into wall and roof cavities in the winter, when indoor humidity is low, and open up in the summer to allow any accumulated moisture to dry to the interior. Siga’s Majrex is a little different. Rather than changing permeability to any significant extent, it is designed so that it’s always harder for water vapor to get into the wall cavity than it is for trapped moisture to get out. All of the membranes have their merits, and arguments abound as to which is better. Regardless of which you go with, make sure that a vapor-variable membrane is installed correctly and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. One benefit to the newer membranes on the market is that unlike polyethylene they are made from more rugged materials. But they still need to be installed in combination with tapes and other sealants to maintain the integrity and continuity of the membrane. In a hot and humid climate, remember that the vapor drive is reversed from that of a typical cold-climate building. In these climates, we are more worried about water vapor from the exterior of the building condensing on the cold innermost layer (usually drywall). Therefore, installing a membrane on the interior is unnecessary. INSULATION AS A VAPOR CONTROL LAYER This approach uses the insulation itself as a vapor control layer, which means it is comprised of a vapor-impermeable material such as closed-cell spray foam. (You could also use polystyrene on the interior in this manner, but the cost, level of detailing, and level of performance of rigid EPS or XPS make them poor choices for this method.) For a variety of reasons, most PGH builders avoid the use of spray foams whenever possible. First, spray foams are made of toxic materials that can offgas into a home if not installed correctly, and they are unhealthy for the installers. Second, many spray foams use blowing agents with a high global-warming potential (GWP), making their ecological payback multiple decades away (and from a climate standpoint, we don’t have that kind of time). But spray foams are getting much better as time progresses, with different chemicals and blowing agents. Some even have blowing agents with a GWP of 1, which helps their overall climate impact, making them similar to EPS insulation in this regard. If the spray foam is a closed-cell spray foam (and qualifies as a Class I or II vapor retarder) and can be continuous across the surface of the interior of the assembly, it is an effective vapor retarder. But be warned that spray foams have been known to shrink and pull away from the surfaces upon which they have been sprayed. This has the potential to open small fractures and cracks for both air and moisture infiltration. Therefore, the classic technique of only doing spray foam in between framing members and not completely encasing them can add up to an enormous number of tiny failures in the vapor control layer (as well as the air control layer). VAPOR-OPEN ASSEMBLIES Another approach is to forgo the use of a membrane and reorder the components of an assembly based on their permeability so that the assembly is vapor open. The Larsen truss wall method is a good example (diagram below, left). In this assembly, the sheathing, usually a Class II vapor retarder and the most vapor-impermeable material in the assembly, is on the warm side of the wall. From there moving out, there are vertical trusses (I-joists) filled with dense-packed cellulose, and a water-resistant barrier adjacent to a vented rainscreen cavity. From the sheathing outward, the wall is composed of highly permeable(vapor-open) materials, so that the wall can always dry to the exterior, minimizing the risk of mold or mildew. This vapor-open construction can also be paired with an “outsulation” approach as described in the previous chapter: that is, installing layers of rigid insulation outside of the sheathing, essentially wrapping the outside of the building in a continuous layer of insulation (see the diagram above, right). If that outsulation is a material such as mineral wool or rigid wood-fiber insulation, then it, too, is a vapor-open assembly and has a very low risk of mold or mildew. WARM SHEATHING AS VAPOR CONTROL LAYER You might be thinking to yourself, “if the sheathing is a Class II vapor retarder and on the warm side of the assembly, isn’t that enough to have an effective vapor control layer?” The answer is yes. If you construct an assembly with outsulation as described above, then that insulation doesn’t necessarily need to be vapor open. It can be vapor closed (a Class I vapor-retarding material such as foil-faced rigid polyisocyanurate or XPS insulation). The strategy is to place enough of a building’s R-value on the cold side of your vaporcontrol layer, so that vapor control layer is safe from condensation. So why, you may ask, do we even care about the vapor-open assembly if this warm sheathing method works? A PGH will always opt for drying mechanisms over wetting prevention. In other words, having an impermeable vapor control layer that keeps interior moisture out is pretty good, but having the ability to dry any moisture that does make it through is even better. ROOF ASSEMBLIES Just like walls, roof assemblies need a vapor control layer. All the general strategies mentioned previously for walls are very similar for roofs. The major differences are that they exist at the top of the building envelope where the vapor pressure from the interior is greatest, and that to stand up to the elements their outer layer is almost always completely impermeable (asphalt shingles, standing-seam metal, EPDM roof membranes, etc.). Thus, it is even more important to get your detailing right. •Vapor-variable membranes with vented roofs. Using a vapor-variable membrane as the control layer and under-sheathing venting as a rainscreen.This relieves any vapor pressure that might buildup in the assembly and allows drying to the underside of the sheathing in case there are any minor leaks that develop over time. •Insulation as a control layer with unvented (or “hot”) roofs. Similar to the same approach for walls, this approach relies on the vapor- impermeable properties of certain insulation types to keep water vapor from reaching and condensing on the roof sheathing. •Outsulation roof assemblies. As with walls, this method puts vapor-closed insulation on the exterior of the sheathing, which is used as the vapor control layer. •Vapor-open roof assemblies. Similar to the same approach for walls, layers of the roof assembly are ordered so that the most impermeable layer is in a warm part of the roof and so the assembly can dry to the exterior freely. *Editor’s Note: Learn more about Best Practices in home construction by picking up Pretty Good House at your favorite a book retailer. Pretty Good House provides a framework and set of guidelines for building or renovating a high-performance home that focuses on its inhabitants and the environment―but keeps in mind that few people have pockets deep enough to achieve a “perfect” solution. The essential idea is for homeowners to work within their financial and practical constraints both to meet their own needs and do as much for the planet as possible. Pretty Good House is authored by two architects (Chris Briley and Emily Mottram), a designer (Michael Maines), and a building contractor (Dan Kolbert), all living and working in the southern half of Maine. Visit www.prettygoodhouse.org. #moisturecontrol #vaporbarrier #doublestudwall #rainscreen

Want your home to make a good first impression? Start with the entryway. Replacing an old, leaky exterior door with a modern pre-hung entryway upgrade can give your home a fresh look and increase its energy-efficiency. Removing the Old Door To take off the old door, start by disassembling the lockset then removing the hinge pins (starting at the bottom). Lift the door out of place, then pry off the old trim. To remove the old jamb, cut through any nails or screws by running a reciprocating saw blade between the jamb and the house framing. The rough opening needs to be around 1 to 2 inches wider than the door you are going to install, allowing room for adjustment and shims. Clear the rough opening of any broken fasteners, insulation or old caulk. (If the rough opening is too large, you can add boards to the framing.) Installing the New Door Fitting the new door in place is usually a two-person job, because one installer needs to be on the outside and the other inside to make adjustments. First, remove any cardboard packing or nails that hold the new door to the pre-hung jamb. Do not, however, remove the plug that connects the latch to the jamb, because this keeps the door closed during installation to keep the jamb in its rigid, rectangular shape. (Note: Most doors available from home centers are "pre-hung," which means the door comes attached to a door jamb designed to create a tight weather seal around the opening.) Place the door/jamb combo in the rough opening by tilting or sliding it into position. Make sure the hinge side of the door is perfectly vertical. When you have it lined up and have determined no major problems with the fit, apply caulk/sealant beneath the door seal. Reposition the door along the hinge side and fix it in place by tightly placing shims around the frame to hold its position. (Note: If the entry door is exposed to rain, add a sill pan or extra flashing beneath it to protect the subfloor from water damage.) With the door in place, start at the top and measure carefully with the level. You can fill gaps between the door jamb and the rough opening using wood shims. A shim is a tapered wedge used for making slight adjustments to door frames and windows, to make them plumb and level. When the shim and the frame are correctly positioned, drive a screw through the jamb into the frame to hold it in place. Repeat the process around the door frame, inserting more shims to hold it securely while checking for level and plumb as you go. This may require a lot of readjustments, but take your time and do it right. Once the frame is held firmly, open and close the door to make sure everything fits. Inspect the top of the door to make sure it closes correctly with no gap. If you find errors, go back and make adjustments. You might need to add more shims on the latch side of the jamb to help the door align correctly. Make adjustments until the door closes properly and the gap at the top is even, then fasten through the shims into the stud framing. To give the hinges extra strength, you can place shims behind them and hold them in place with longer hinge screws driven into the studs. When the door is fully installed, it’s a good idea to apply expanding foam in the gap between the jamb and the rough opening. Be sure to use a low-expanding formula specifically designated for doors and windows. Finally, install your trim package of choice and seal all seams with a flexible, paintable, weather-proof caulk. Prime and paint the trim, install your doorknob or handle-set, then the job is done. Troubleshooting Installation Getting the new door to fit perfectly square and plumb can be a challenge, especially for inexperienced installers. Here are a few pro tips to help get the door to fit. Gap Too Tight on the Side? If a bowed jamb above the top hinge creates a gap that’s too tight on the strike side, drive shims between the framing and the hinge side of the head jamb until the gap is equal all around. (A bowed jamb is more common on the hinge side, but you also can use this trick to adjust the opposite side.) Gap Too Tight at the Top? If the gap above the door is too tight on one side, then insert a flat bar beneath the jamb on the tight side. Raise the jamb until the gap is even, then fasten in place. Door Sill Not Level? In older houses, you might find the door sill is not level. If the height difference between the two sides of the door is significant, the door won’t open and close correctly. Use a level to see if the floor is flat. If it’s not level, insert shims beneath the level until the bubble centers in the vial. When the bubble reads level, measure the gap between the level and the floor. Use a hand saw (or circular saw with fine-toothed blade) to trim that measurement off one side of the door jamb so the pre-hung door will have an exact fit within the rough opening. Be careful—the side that will be on the higher side of the sill is the side that needs to be shortened. Brick Molding in the Way? Pre-hung doors commonly include pre-attached brick molding, which is wood trim surrounding the jamb to conceal gaps. The molding, however, interferes with insertion of adjustable wedge-shaped wood shims from both sides of the door (as they were designed to be used). You might prefer to pry off the brick molding, install the door with shims, then reinstall the molding. The photos show a recent door installation in Alabama, where Jeff Winkle and his Highland Properties crew found that the molding interfered with the painted brick surrounding the rough opening. Their solution was to remove the molding, rip it to a narrower size, then reattach it. Once the door was installed, caulked and painted, the alteration to the brick molding became invisible. Editor's Note: You can reach Jeff Winkle and Highland Properties at (205) 281-4125. Special thanks to the homeowners Paula and Michael Laney for help with this article. Door Installation Aids AirShim The AirShim is a contractor-grade inflatable air wedge for door, window and cabinet installations. It’s designed to replace damaging pry bars and temporary wood shims. It allows a single installer to position and hold items in place, saving jobsite time and labor costs by providing a much-needed extra hand in installations. It's perfect for window and door installations, and for positioning appliances and equipment. Use it anywhere you need to lift and align objects. The AirShim is certified for a 300-lb. load rating and has an internal stiffener with a rounded corner so it fits into tight 3/32-in. gaps without folding. When inflated, its 2-1/2-in. gap-spanning capacity means greater lifting or pushing range and more versatility on the job or around the house. Visit www.calculated.com. TopStar Fastening System Available from U2 Fasteners, the TopStar Fastening System utilizes an ingenious two-piece “screw within a screw” to reduce labor for the plumb installation of door and window frames (jambs) and built-in cabinets. When locked, the Top Star screw gets driven into the material, and when unlocked, the fastener’s inner screw turns independently from the outer portion for easy adjustment without shims. First, drill a 5/16-in. pilot hole in the jamb then use U2’s Crown bit to drive the Top Star through the door frame and into the rough-opening until flush with the jamb. Then, slide off the crown to reveal the inner star bit and use it to adjust the Top Star’s inner screw, which moves the jamb in and out of the opening until plumb. This system is designed to make door installation faster than using wood shims to make fine adjustments. When installed with the Top Star system, if a door goes out of plumb over the years, use the Top Star screw to adjust it back to plumb position. Visit www.u2fasteners.com.

Nobody brings you news on home construction and remodeling products the way we do at 'Home Improvement & Repairs' magazine. Here is a roundup of hot items 2022 chosen by our editorial staff. Metabo HPT 18V MultiVolt 10” Single Bevel Miter Saw Metabo HPT launched another first-of-its-kind cordless tool to the growing MultiVolt System- with the new 18V 10” Single Bevel Miter Saw (model C1810DFA). The new miter saw features cordless portability to work anywhere. The Xact Cut LED Shadow Line System makes it easy to see in any lighting condition for better cutting accuracy. The kit includes an 18V/36V high capacity 5.0Ah MultiVolt battery to perform longer, offering 180 2x4 cuts on a single charge. The saw has a 3,800-RPM max no-load speed and a wide range of miter and bevel cutting options. Visit www.metabo-hpt.com. Bosch 18V Freak The Bosch Freak is half impact driver, half impact wrench. This two-in-one 1/4-in. and 1/2-in. Bit/Socket Impact Driver (model GDX18V-1860C) offers a 1/4-in. quick-change hex shank for bits, and a 1/2-in. square drive for sockets. Bits can stay conveniently inserted when using deep sockets, and more torque is transferred directly through the 1/2-in. square drive anvil. There is no more torque loss through socket adapters or broken socket adapters. The powerful brushless motor produces up to 1,860 in.-lbs. of torque and 0-4,100 impacts per minute. In addition to three speed/torque settings, this impact driver also features special modes to prevent work-piece and fastener damage. The presets include modes for self-drilling metal screws and wood screws. In reverse, with bolt mode activated, the Auto Bolt Release stops rotation when there is no load on the tool to help prevent accidentally dropping bolts and nuts during removal. Visit www.boschtools.com. Dremel 8250 High-Speed Brushless Rotary Tool Dremel released the 8250 High-Speed Brushless Rotary Tool to help with a variety of projects from home improvement to woodworking, to crafts and more. Dremel’s 8250 offers optimized performance and durability, using an advanced brushless motor and patented high-speed rotary tool technology. The rotary tool is made for heavy-duty applications including cutting rebar, steel, hardwood, as well as grinding metal, sanding wood, carving and more. The 8250 delivers 20 percent higher power versus the Dremel 4300 and 100-percent more runtime versus the Dremel 8220. A red warning LED notifies the user to guard against overload, excessive tool and battery temperatures. Visit www.dremel.com. Ridgid Power Auger A new line of Ridgid Outdoor Power is coming to The Homer Depot in January 2023, including the Ridgid 18V Brushless Auger. The kit includes dual 18V 4.0Ah Lithium-ion Batteries (and charger) to deliver powerful gas-like performance. Features include high and low speed and reverse operation for increased productivity and an anti-kickback system for better user control. Pair the auger with Ridgid MAX Output batteries for maximum power. Register the auger within 90 days of purchase to qualify for the Lifetime Service Agreement. Visit www.ridgid.com. LP WeatherLogic Air & Water Barrier For new home construction, LP WeatherLogic Air & Water Barrier helps safeguard the house from water intrusion for a tighter building envelope. The system is APA Structural 1 Rated Sheathing and can be used for both wall and roof applications. It installs just like normal sheathing products. WeatherLogic is designed with an integrated water-resistive overlay which protects against water intrusion while still allowing moisture vapor to escape. When properly taped and flashed, the LP WeatherLogic system can contribute to a tighter building envelope while also eliminating the need for housewrap, which increases jobsite efficiency by eliminating the extra step of installing it. Backed by an industry-leading 30-year warranty, WeatherLogic is engineered to stand up to extreme conditions. Visit www.lpcorp.com/weatherlogic. SENCO Framing Nailers SENCO launched its latest built-in-the-USA pneumatic framing nailer. The SENCO FN81T1 fires full round head nails and features more power, improved durability, and better ergonomics than comparable framing nailers. The FN81T1 follows the launch of the FN91T1, SENCO’s 34-degree framing nailer which was named Best Framing Nailer in the 2022 Pro Tool Innovation Awards. Both nailers are assembled at SENCO’s Cincinnati production facility. The new FN81T1 fires 20-degree, plastic-collated, full round-head nails. The previously launched FN91T1, fires 34-degree, paper tape-collated, offset round-head or clipped-head nails. The FN81T1 is exceptionally powerful, delivering 18 percent more driving force than comparable framing nailers. It is designed to consistently sink 2-in. to 3-1/2-in. framing nails in dense engineered lumber like LVL and OSB without slowing down. The nailer weighs in at 8.75 pounds and features a durable magnesium magazine and a body and belt hook made from heavy-duty aluminum. Visit www.senco.com. Owens Corning PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation Owens Corning PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation was selected as a winner in Good Housekeeping’s 2022 Home Reno Awards in the Biggest Energy Savers category. The new insulation features Owen Corning’s advanced fiber technology to offer enhanced comfort, with superior performance and safe, proven ingredients. With excellent recovery out the package that fits snugly into the wall cavity, the insulation is easy handle, soft as cotton, and cuts cleanly with a single pass. PINK Next Gen Fiberglas makes it easier to manage budgets and timelines, enabling up to 23 percent faster installation compared to previous products. With a visibly superior surface and ability to completely fill the wall cavity, it also helps projects pass inspection. For homeowners, it offers greater comfort and safe ingredients with no need for fire retardants or formaldehyde. It is also UL GREENGUARD certified for low VOCs. Visit www.pinknextgen.com . U2 Fasteners Re-Fine Screw Designed for use in trim work and fine carpentry, the Re-Fine Screw from U2 Fasteners features a very small head that is difficult to notice and easy to conceal. The Tapper Point consists of the Cork Screw Start and Blade Cutting Thread for easy piercing and alleviating strain on the material. The Re-Fine Screw also includes a double twist at the head for drawing strength. It can be used for siding or any delicate project like crown molding, railings and PVC. It’s great for making small adjustments. Like all U2 Fasteners, the Re-Fine Screw features the Tight Star Recess system, which grasps the driver bit tightly so the screw can be installed with one hand. Visit http://u2fasteners.com. Worx Nitro 20V 1/2” Compact Drill-Driver The new Worx Nitro 20V ½” Compact Drill-Driver has brushless motor and a 6-in. headstock that’s easy to squeeze into tight spaces. It delivers 500 in./lbs. of torque and features a new Worx battery. In fact, it comes with two, 20V 2.0Ah batteries that are compatible with up to 100 other Worx 20V, 40V and 80V DIY and lawn and garden tools and lifestyle products. At $119.99, it’s also makes for a nice holiday gift. Visit www.worx.com. Oneida Air Systems Supercell Turbo Oneida Air Systems’ new Supercell Turbo boasts 30 percent more CFM (up to 536 CFM) than the classic Supercell, offering more airflow to your tools that require higher CFM and to more ports than ever before. The patented Supercell is the first and only dust collector on the market with high enough levels of static pressure and CFM to accommodate the widest range of woodworking tools, from handheld sanders, table saws, and miter saws, to jointers, planers, and even CNC routers— essentially every tool in the shop with 1-5-in. diameter dust ports. It’s high suction power moves dust-laden air at a relentless pace, overcoming resistance points (such as long hose or duct runs, 90-degree angles, and small diameter connections) that would choke traditional dust-collection systems. Like the classic version, the Supercell Turbo has a 97.8-in. static pressure rating—over 10 times higher suction power than standard dust collectors. The 230V unit ships with bare wiring and requires a 30 Amp circuit. Its onboard HEPA-grade filter media easily pulses clean. Made in the USA, the Supercell Turbo is available now at the introductory prices of $3399.00 MSRP (wall mount, 14-gallon), $3499.00 MSRP (wall mount, 30/55-gallon), and $3899 MSRP (mobile, 14-gallon). All Turbo models include a wireless remote, Dust Sentry bin fill level indicator, HEPA-grade filter media, bag retainer system, five liner bags, and 25 feet of 4-in. diameter vacuum-pressure rated hose. Visit www.oneida-air.com. Inspire Railing To provide DIY homeowners and residential contractors with an aluminum railing that is easy to order and install, Fortress Building Products’ Inspire Railing comes as a ready-to-assemble kit for a straightforward, no-fuss installation. Inspire Railing features twist-and-lock balusters and pre-assembled stair panels. Pre-punched posts further support a quick install while guaranteeing consistency and quality along the perimeter of a deck. A durable, low-maintenance building material, aluminum won’t rot, warp, deteriorate or rust, which means Inspire Railing can resist the damaging effects of weathering. Offered in Black Sand and Brown, DIY homeowners and residential contractors can safely enclose a deck in a high-quality railing solution that melds style and function. The Fortress Lock powder-coated finish provides enhanced corrosion resistance and UV protection. Inspire Railing is backed by a limited lifetime manufacturer warranty for ultimate peace of mind. Visit www.fortressbp.com. FrogTape High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape FrogTape brand introduces High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape engineered to consistently adhere to difficult surfaces such as self-cleaning paints and rough textures, including stucco, brick and concrete. It is ideal for outdoor projects that require a strong, conformable tape that offers clean removal without shredding. High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape offers very high adhesion for tough outdoor uses. Not only does it stick to difficult, uneven substrates, but it also adheres well to painted wood, aluminum, steel and vinyl. Plus, its crepe paper backing allows it to conform easily to bends and turns, making a quick task of masking around exterior doorways and windows. This unique, time-saving flexibility makes High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape an ideal toolbox staple for painting contractors. Note that High Bond Exterior Painter’s Tape is recommended for outdoor use only, and due to its very high adhesion, users should always test the tape on a surface before application. And while this tape will provide clean paint lines, it does not contain FrogTape’s PaintBlock Technology. Visit frogtape.com/contractors. Beach House Shake Composite Shingle Consumers love the iconic look of cedar shingles. However, untreated cedar shingles discolor quickly with unsightly and uneven dark spots. To overcome discoloration, cedar shingles are commonly painted. While coatings offer protection, they cover up the natural cedar’s subtle nuances and beauty, resulting in monochromatic sidewalls. Additionally, natural cedar shingles are time-intensive to install, in limited supply, and require constant upkeep. As an alternative to cedar shingles, Tando Building Products offers Beach House Shake as “the authentic composite shingle.” The architecturally precise 5-in. shingle is made with composite technology recognized for providing realism, durability and longevity in exterior products such as decking, roofing, lap siding, and composite stone. Beach House Shake is available in four natural cedar shades. Visit www.beachhouseshake.com. PanoLock PanoLock is a one-of-a-kind, multi-point lock that works with off-the-shelf hardware to provide superior home security at an affordable price. The lock installs along the edge of the door with three locking points. It works with most handsets, whether knob, lever or thumb-press via an innovative plug-n-play latch and deadbolt adapters, which mate with multiple brands and styles. PanoLock is compatible brands include: Schlage, Kwikset, Gatehouse, Baldwin, Brinks, and Defiant. https://www.enduraproducts.com/panolock/ CAMO ClipDRIVE What’s better than a building a deck with hidden fasteners? How about building a deck with hidden fasteners from a standing position? Target screws easily while standing and drive CAMO clips up to 5X faster with the CAMO ClipDRIVE. This contractor-grade tool is designed to give you the best experience fastening grooved decking. For exclusive use with CAMO Universal Deck Clips on leading brands of grooved decking, this labor- and time-saving tool attaches to your drill and features a height-adjustable handle. The weighted nose easily targets the screw head of the CAMO Clips to speed up decking installation. Visit www.camofasteners.com. DeWalt DW735X 13'' 2-Speed Planer This new DeWalt planer has become indispensable for the HIR crew. We use it to plane boards for all manner of wood projects, including table tops, window shutters, barn doors and more. With a powerful 15-amp, 20,000-rpm motor (10,000-rpm cutterhead speed) the DeWalt DW735X Planer can easily handle large cuts in wide material. The planer features a three-knife cutter designed to deliver 30% longer life and make blade changes faster and easier. The two-speed gear box allows users to change the feed speed to optimize cuts per inch at 96 or 179 CPI, for dimensioning boards or for smooth finishing. A fan-assisted chip-ejection system vacuums chips off of the cutter-head and exhausts them through an outlet port, which you can connect to a dust collector. Plus, the 19-3/4" cast aluminum base is twice as rigid as a standard 10" base and folding tables. The DeWalt DW735X includes infeed and outfeed tables and an extra set of knives. Highly recommended for woodworkers. Visit https://www.dewalt.com. DuraMaster Elastomeric Caulk/Sealant DuraMaster sealant from Titebond offers 100-percent joint-movement capability, so it will flex and stretch and won’t crack or detach from the surrounding building materials. Movement occurs with expansion and contraction of building materials due to temperature changes, settling, wind and seismic events, and this movement is why brittle caulks can crack or fail over time. Typical elastomeric sealants can handle movement of 25 percent of the original joint size and are rated Class 25 (the minimum rating for handling a moderate amount of movement). DuraMaster, however, has earned the highest ASTM C-920 rating for sealant performance, Class 100/50, which means it can handle movement of 100 percent expansion and 50 percent contraction. The Class 100 rating is a testament to the sealant’s durability, because according to Titebond, the new formula tested four times more durable than other water-based sealants. Plus, it will span even large gaps, up to two inches wide. The DuraMaster sealant can be used for interiors or exteriors. Its water-based formulation cleans up easily with water (until the sealant dries). And unlike standard silicone, DuraMaster is a paintable caulk and is sold in 13 colors. Learn more at www.titebond.com. WiseBond Deep Pour Epoxy WiseBond Deep Pour thick pouring epoxy is a premium-grade epoxy specially formulated for river table deep pours up to 2 in. deep in a single pour. This Deep Pour epoxy is a 2:1 mixing ratio and can be used indoors without ventilation or bulky respiration equipment. Each 1.5 gal kit includes 1 gal. of A-side resin and 1/2 gal. of B-side hardener. This epoxy is perfect for live-edge river tables, creative table making, wood slabs, woodworking, and object art-casting projects. It will easily pour up to 8 in. thick for object castings. WiseBond Deep Pour epoxy cures to a crystal clear, water-like appearance for an amazing clear cast. Powdered colorants, dyes, and alcohol inks can be mixed into the epoxy for amazing special effects adding vibrancy to any river table, encapsulated object, voids, turning projects, custom wood tables or art projects. Our Deep Pour thick pouring epoxy has been engineered to be low-odor, low heat, low viscosity, and zero VOC. It is designed for a slow, long cure time that prevents cracking with a slow exothermic reaction typically peeking around the 8-hour mark. Visit www.wisebond.com. FIXD Automotive Sensor FIXD is an easy-to-use device with an app that actually tells you what's wrong with your car without having to go to a repair shop. You can even clear the car's alerts with it. Translate over 7000 error codes into plain English, taking the stress out of the check engine light. See how bad your car problem is (minor or major) so you know if it’s safe to keep driving. Get automatic updates when it’s time for routine maintenance based on your make, model & mileage. All of these features are included for FREE inside the FIXD app when you purchase a FIXD Sensor. There’s no limit to how many times you can use the sensor or how many vehicles you can connect to it. Compatible with all iOS and Android devices. Visit www.fixd.com. Trex Transcend Lineage Decking Trex Transcend Lineage is a new composite deck board that features “subtle, elegant graining that delivers an unmatched natural appearance.” Available in two new color options – Rainier, an airy mountain grey, and Biscayne, a light coastal brown – these new offerings are engineered with heat-mitigating technology in the shell to reflect the sun and keep boards cooler than other composite decking offerings of a similar color. Like all Trex decking, Lineage boards are made from recycled and reclaimed content and engineered with a proprietary, high-traffic formulation and ultra-durable integrated shell that resists stains, scratches and mold. They won’t rot, warp, crack or splinter, and upkeep is hassle-free. No sanding, staining or painting is ever needed, and spills wash off easily with just soap and water. Visit Lineage.Trex.com.

The look of charred wood is a hot trend for home décor. The practice of charring wood, called “Shou Sugi Ban,” originated in Japan centuries ago as a method to preserve cedar siding. These days, this wood-burning technique is now growing in popularity in the U.S. and Canada for its decorative appeal. Demand for this distinctive look is so strong that manufacturers now offer “charred” finishes straight from the factory for house siding and wall décor panels. The procedure involves charring the wood with the flame of a propane torch, then cooling the surface, cleaning it with a wire brush, rinsing off the residue with clean water, and applying a finish coat. The natural durability of Shou Sugi Ban makes it appropriate for interiors or exteriors. It’s an excellent alternative to paints and stains. Depending on the heat and cleaning technique, you can achieve a broad range of textures and tones. The final product can have a rich, silvery finish, or you might prefer to show off the deep contrast between bands of wood grain, enhancing the natural beauty. Charred wood resists fire, rot, insects, and can last for decades. This wood-finish application can be used for siding, accent walls, window shutters, wainscoting, column/beam wraps, outdoor benches, and all sorts of creative applications. Wood Charring Basics It should go without saying that working with fire is dangerous, and one should take all precautions to ensure a safe working environment away from combustible materials and with plenty of ventilation. The best way to dive into wood-charring is to experiment, because the practice is as much art as science. Furthermore, different types of wood species will react differently to varying levels of flame exposure, and ultimately the cleaning technique can impart dramatically different effects to the charred surface. It should go without saying that you’ll need a safe place to work with open flame, away from any notably flammable materials. The good news is you don’t need to experiment on expensive lumber. When selecting wood for charring, look for construction-grade softwood lumber, such as pine, spruce and fir, which have a soft grain. After you burn the surface, the cleaning process will scrape out the soft springwood between the bands of woodgrain, and it’s much more difficult to remove that material when working with hardwood. The soft whitewood species are also lighter in color, which works like a blank canvas for the coloration to follow. For the most dramatic charring effect, choose wood pieces with the lightest color available. Grain orientation is also worth noting. When preparing to char, check the board’s end-grain for the growth rings. You should apply the flame to the bark-side of the tree for the most interesting grain pattern. Finally, look for lumber labeled “KD,” which stands for kiln-dried. Wood with high moisture content won’t dry out and therefore won’t work well for the charring technique. Traditional Shou Sugi Ban, which literally translates to “burnt cedar board,” involves tying the boards together in bundles of three to form a triangular chimney, then placing them on-end over a fire, so the flames draw upward and char the inner faces of the boards. Once charred, the boards are removed and cooled with water, stopping the burning process and hardening the blackened, charred surface. The cooled, black surface becomes resistant to sun and rain, insects, rot and fire itself. The first pass with the torch will remove moisture and prep the boards for charring. The second pass will begin to show a change in the wood’s color tone. You’ll need to take a cue from tradition when setting up your work area, because the charring works best on vertically oriented boards as heat draws the flames upward. A welding table can be used to provide a non-flammable working surface, or you can use a wood workbench if you don’t mind the likelihood of char marks. For smaller projects, a Berzomatic torch (propane or MAPP gas) can be used to char the wood surface. For larger projects, a weed torch that connects to a propane tank will produce a larger flame. Burning Technique Support the workpiece vertically against a bench, then pass the torch flame over the wood surface along the same direction as the woodgrain. Move the flame in a consistent pattern with smooth, even strokes to avoid blotchiness as the wood darkens. Keep the flame the same distance from the wood throughout the process. Make a first pass over the entire face of the board. It will have some charring effect, but the first pass basically removes moisture and heats the wood in preparation for the following passes, which will char the grain and springwood. The soft springwood will burn faster and deeper than the hard grain. Note that if you plan to brush out the softwood for a high-contrast grain effect, then you don’t need to burn the wood to the point that it looks like firewood. If you plan to remove the springwood, you only need to blacken the entire board surface. Move the torch along the same direction as the woodgrain. Charring works best with the boards in a vertical position, which may require a ladder to char long boards. Reposition the boards as necessary to apply heat to all sides and edges. The resulting finish will depend on the degree to which the surface is burned, or how long the wood is exposed to the flame. For a more blackened end product, a different surface effect can be achieved by charring the wood until it won’t take any more flame. This technique ultimately makes the board surface more fire-retardant but also distorts the surface with a distinct alligator-like texture. The surface can then be brushed to even the color and then clear-coated to finish. For best results, char and clean the individual parts of your project prior to assembly. Shown to the left, we’ve moved from 1x6 tabletop boards to a 4x4 table leg. Note that the heat from the flame can distort the shape of the boards and cause bowing, particularly with thinner material, but application of clamps and/or weights and fasteners can usually muscle the boards back into shape when cooling them. Cleaning the Boards Once the wood has been charred, a variety of brushes can be used on the surface for different looks and textures. A nylon utility brush works well to remove loose char and achieve a fairly uniform sheen. The stiffer the bristles, the more aggressive the scraping action, which removes more char, revealing the lighter springwood beneath but leaving the dark rings of the harder grain for a higher contrast. Use wire brushes with bristles of different stiffness (stainless steel, brass, etc.) to vary the tooling effect. Drill-mounted brush attachments can also speed up the process. Use water to rinse off the loose char dust then allow the wood dry completely. Charring is only half the process. The wood’s finished appearance will largely be determined by the brushing and cleaning process. For a charcoal-textured or “dragon scale” appearance, apply enough heat to fully blacken the wood surface then use a soft-bristle brush to brush away the dust and loose char. For a smoother, more uniformly silver appearance, blacken the surface but stop charring when the texture begins to distort. Brush and clean with the soft bristles of a nylon utility brush or even a paint brush. The stiffer the bristles, the more aggressive the cleaning action. A wire brush can remove bands of soft springwood while leaving rings of darkened hardwood for a high-contrast grain effect. Power tools can speed the brushing process, such as these Nyalox flap wheel accessories which attach to a drill. For an artistic effect, combine the high-contrast grain patterns with colorful wood dyes and stains. Top Coats After you’ve brushed and cleaned and dried your charred wood, it can then be clear-coated to preserve its natural color or be enhanced with the use of a stain or dye. Brush the colorants onto the wood surface, then wipe off the excess to leave the desired tint. For top coats, try a water-based product such as Polycrylic from MinWax and the thicker Enduro-Var urethane from General Finishes (excellent for coating a fully charred wood surface). Charred woodgrain is a great look for wood lovers, a popular décor for homeowners, a new finish that the pros can offer, and a fun hobby for DIY’ers to explore. Give it try, but please be careful. Preserve the charred wood with your finish of choice. Here’s the finished project—a 6’ patio table made of charred pine. SIDE NOTE 1 Charred Cedar Shutters Sho Sugi Ban works for interiors and exteriors. For a golden brown, oven-baked color tone, char the boards until barely blackened then brush with a stiff-bristle nylon brush. SIDE NOTE 2 Ignite Cladding The look of charred wood is so “hot” that manufacturers such as Thermory USA offer cladding options prefinished with a Shou Sugi Ban look, which can be used for exterior siding or interior accents. Ignite cladding from Thermory USA provides the look of Shou Sugi Ban with durability all the way to the core. And unlike charred wood, Ignite has no messy residue, offering the realistic look of charred wood, without the flames. The cladding is created from thermally-modified wood using a process of heat and steam that enhances the wood’s stability and lessens its weight. Ignite achieves its signature dragon-scale pattern by embossing, brushing and tinting thermally modified Scots pine. Unlike modern Shou Sugi Ban, which is usually created by hand with a torch, Ignite is created with a deceptively flame-free process. It is also available with only the brushed texture. The thermal modification gives the wood consistent rot resistance throughout the board, a high level of dimensional stability, and a consistent appearance from batch to batch. Learn more at www.thermoryusa.com. SIDE NOTE 3 Video: Charring Wood for Home Projects

When it came time for new range hood, we went with the Hauslane UC-PS38 because it’s packed with cool features. This pro-style ventilation hood cleans the air and then steam-cleans itself. The under-cabinet extractor fan cleans grease, smoke, fumes and cooking odors from the air with its 6 speed fans. At the touch of a button, the kitchen exhaust fan then goes on to steam-clean and rinse its own hood and ventilator fans using an internal water supply – no water line required. Although most range hoods have trouble capturing smoke from the front burners, the unique panel design of this model creates suction around the range hood to provide maximum coverage for your cooktop. The Hauslane UC-PS38 is a sleek-looking model with clean lines, a buttonless digital touch panel, and a stainless steel finish. LED lights create a warm atmosphere while providing plenty of illumination to the cooking area. The video shows a quick look (with a few tips) at our process of removing an old venting microwave and replacing it with a proper Hauslane UC-PS38 range hood. Learn more at https://hauslane.com/.

As a writer/editor for a home-improvement magazine, I receive a lot of story pitches about new products, materials, and technology for home construction. These submissions typically come from the marketing and/or public relations departments of the various companies that manufacturer or distribute the product in question. Although, we try to give you the latest news and views of cool tools, fresh products and burgeoning technology, we don't intent to simply regurgitate the talking points of the folks sending these submissions. If you want to read their thoughts, you can always visit their website to read the copy directly off their advertisements. We aim to offer more with HIR magazine, so we often follow up with questions for more information, and when relevant, even test the products ourselves. We aim to go the extra mile, do a little research, and give our readers additional insight. One product category that seems kind of nebulous is that of "smart technology" as it relates to internet-connected household devices and how (and by whom) those devices can be controlled remotely. In our follow-up research I've detected a pattern: Nobody wants to talk about who or what entity has ultimate control over these devices. When I pose such questions, I get no answers. Recent email from a PR correspondent: "I’m writing to propose a story idea and interview or guest writer/bylined article submission addressing the topic: Staying Energy Efficient Amid Expected 10-year High Heating Costs This Winter. America’s homeowners can expect to shell out more cold cash to keep warm this winter as they face the highest home heating costs in more than a decade - making optimal energy efficiency more essential than ever. Here are the financially frostbiting facts. The average cost of home heating is expected to increase by 17.2% since last winter from $1,025 to $1,202, according to the National Energy Assistance Directors Association (NEADA). Those who heat with natural gas will confront the largest spike with their cost predicted to soar 34.3% over last year. Conversely, homeowners who use electric heat are forecasted to see the lowest increase at 6.9%. The story would discuss (among other topics you might request): The Latest Home HVAC Systems: An overview of the newest, most energy-efficient home cooling and heating systems. “Smart" Home Heating and Cooling: A primer on "Smart" home heating and cooling covering available systems and technologies and how to best leverage them for primary or vacation homes. Simple Energy-saving Tips: A host of tips and tricks for simple, practical quick fixes around the house that can help significantly enhance energy-efficiency. The interviewee or guest writer is: Dennis Stinson, Vice President of Sales for Fujitsu General America." These type requests are fairly common, and since the PR person offered to cover "other topics" at my request, I made the following request: "I'll take a look at a guest submission IF the writer of the article will address the following concern that many homeowners have about "Smart" thermostats: According to ABC affiliate Denver7, in August, Xcel Energy prevented thousands of "smart thermostat" customers in Colorado from changing the temperature in their homes for hours during a heat wave on Tuesday due to an 'energy emergency.' Emergencies aside, I've heard a lot of anecdotal feedback from homeowners who are resistant to installing such technology based on concerns that it grants the utility companies and associated government regulators the power to impose thermostat regulations based on ideological or political agendas, wresting freedom of control from the individual homeowners. Can your writer explain why such fears are unfounded? Or are they valid concerns?" The lady said she'd look into my request. That has been more than a month ago, and I never heard back. The same PR person did follow up with a different story-angle request from Fujitsu, but my question remains unanswered. It's not the first time, either. Every time I inquire with one of these tech companies about how much individual control the homeowner ultimately has when relying on a smart device, I seem to get stonewalled. And I find the silence to be fishy... I'm not making any conspiratorial accusations but I'm not getting any answers, either. I'd like an honest professional in the industry to field this topic or refer me to an informed source online where it's been previously (and responsibly) covered. So, I'll state the question once more for the sake of clarity, in case any industry experts out there reading this can answer the question... For the individual homeowner who likes to consider themselves "the ruler of their domain," does installing a smart device in your home ultimately grant control of the device to a third party? The ABC News article I cited above seems to confirm this is true, but it's not something you'll see advertised by the companies who sell you the products. - M. Weber

Ready to remodel? Love the look of tile? Here's a new report on the latest trends from the interior decor experts of Ceramics of Italy. At the 2022 edition of Cersaie, the world’s preeminent exhibition of ceramic tile, naturalistic was the name of the game. Earthy hues, warm tones, and botanical patterns were evident throughout the show while new types of natural material looks presented an element of wonder and surprise. The technical prowess of Italian manufacturers adds another palpable layer to this trend. Although the concept of porcelain tile emulating wood, marble, and stone has been around for over a decade, Italian companies continue to challenge themselves; many have developed proprietary techniques to make their collections look and feel like the real thing while others play with the characteristics of natural materials to create high-impact designs that are completely unique. PROVENANCE Top Left: Sahara Noir by AVASTONE; Bottom Left: Riggiole by Ceramica Fioranese; Top Right: City by Casalgrande Padana; Bottom Right: Canal Grande by Ceramiche Refin Like all artistic endeavors, inspiration for tile design can come from anywhere. While specific places within Italy served as a muse for some manufacturers - from ancient stones in Sicily to wood used to build traditional boats and bricola in Venice - others scoured the globe for natural and man-made wonders. Tiles conjuring the pristine blue and green waters surrounding the islands of French Polynesia, the intense black of Sahara Noir marble from the mountains of Southern Tunisia, and a rare sky blue onyx found only in Iran are a few examples of the new collections inspired by mother nature. Meanwhile, patterns referencing the inherent character of cities like Hong Kong and New York and historically significant buildings like the Amalfi Cathedral offer interesting visual cues of architecture from around the world. HYGGE Top Left: Nabi by Del Conca Bottom Left: Omnia by Ceramiche Keope; Right: Cooking Surface Prime by ABK Although hygge was a huge trend in interiors some years ago, the pandemic spurred a renewed interest in and attachment to the idea of ‘home’. With people spending more time inside their abodes, warm and comforting interiors became more than a trend: It was a necessity. Recognizing this, Italian tile manufacturers released hundreds of collections this year to achieve minimal yet cozy spaces within the residential and commercial realm. Warm tones, swirling veins, and ultra-soft surfaces were omnipresent at this year’s show, complemented by the warmth of wood, travertine, and terracotta rendered in ceramic. BRICKS Left: Tetris by Ceramica Sant’Agostino; Top Right: Abacus by Ergon; Bottom Right: Small by La Fabbrica The humble brick was one of the most popular formats in Italian tile this year and with good reason: Its small size conjures the feeling of something handmade while also serving as a module for creating wholly unique compositions. They can be stacked horizontally or vertically to create monochromatic environments with a bit of texture or mixed with different colors to create myriad patterns like stripes, chevron and herringbone. Some collections also offer various finishes and intense chromatic variations, so even if specified in a single color, it generates visual interest for walls and furnishings. Sizes range from 2”x6” up to 3”x15” and designs also include petite wood- and marble-look designs. EMERALD CITY Top Left: Caleido by Atlas Plan; Bottom Left: TADELAKT by CIR Ceramiche; Top Right: Aesthetica by La Faenza; Bottom Left: Essence by Italgraniti Jade, sage, mint, and aloe: No other hue conjures nature like the color green. It also has a calming effect, easing stress and forcing the brain to relax, making it a suitable companion to the larger theme of comfort this year. On one end of the spectrum, Italian manufacturers released show-stopping porcelain slabs featuring saturated colors, giant palms, and exotic stones like green onyx and Patagonia green marble. On the other end, companies took a more subtle approach, offering largeand small-format tiles in muted shades of green and subtle textures like Moroccan plaster. NEW NATURALS Left: Tiles ®evolution by Ceramica Bardelli; Top Right: Tele di Marmo Precious by Emilceramica; Bottom Right: WIDEgres280 by Ceramiche Coem With Italian manufacturers reaching new heights in high-definition digital printing, ceramic tile can be seen as a blank canvas for artistic expression. This was never more evident than this year as companies displayed hyper realistic interpretations of natural elements like water and sky, painterly florals - including details pulled from Van Gogh’s work, and new material looks not yet explored in ceramic like cork and rammed earth. Companies also released inventive renditions of wood - from beadboard and decorative inlays to rustic grade wood planks - and invented wholly new typologies of materials by combining the characteristics of various stones and woods into one. THE ‘70s Left: Reflet by Mirage; Top Right: Homey by Ceramiche Piemme; Bottom Right: Retina by Imola The 70s was a decade defined by dichotomies. On one hand it celebrated spectacle with glam rock artists like T.Rex, Ziggy Stardust, and the New York Dolls, flashy prints and metallic accessories from emerging brands like Versace, and all the glitter and glam that accompanied roller disco and boogie nights. On the other hand, it was very naturalistic and breezy. As yacht rock emerged in the later half of the decade, materials and patterns conjuring the sailing lifestyle was not far behind with stripes, wavy patterns and wood paneling entering people’s homes and wardrobes. Warm, earthy tones like brown, mauve, and ochre and pop art florals were also very prevalent. These trend-setting products from Ceramics of Italy members, and hundreds of others from Italian tile manufacturers, are now available in the North American market through an extensive network of tile distributors and retailers. For additional products and inspiration, visit the product gallery on ceramica.info. For information on individual companies across the Italian ceramic sector, visit the new Italian Ceramic Finder.

LP® SmartSide trim and siding products have been proven to install faster, cut waste, and reduce build cycles for contractors when compared to installing fiber-cement siding. Made of superior engineered wood technology, SmartSide products have been tested by Lousiana-Pacific Corp. alongside RSMeans, a trusted third party, to gauge their productivity vs. the competition. Here are the results: Those results suggest a big boost in productivity for professional siding installers. But HIR wanted to know more details, so we asked the folks at LP to share what features of the siding make it easier and quicker to install than fiber-cement. They gave us a three-fold answer: LP SmartSide Lap Siding weighs 45% less than fiber-cement lap siding. That significant reduction in weights makes the SmartSide material easier to lift, carry, and maneuver into place against the house wall. Longer lengths. Compared to fiber-cement's 12-foot lengths, SmartSide siding's 16-foot lengths may lead to fewer seams and cuts. Essentially, each piece of siding covers more house. Advanced durability. LP SmartSide siding is less prone to breakage than fiber-cement siding. This means less time spent correcting mistakes on the job site. Not only does it install quickly, but LP SmartSide siding is built to last. The engineered wood strand technology offers protection against hail, wind, moisture, fungal decay, and termites, making SmartSide one of the most durable house siding solutions on the market, thanks in part to LP's proprietary SmartGuard process. This special process ensures that every strand of wood is treated with a carefully formulated mix of resins, waxes, and zinc borate, and finished with an overlay to offer superior protection. LP backs its SmartSide products with industry-leading warranties, and you can read the warranty details right HERE.

Enjoy our dazzling special FX! #tablesaw #safety #halloween

The National Right to Work Foundation opposes a new rule from the Biden administration that grants union-control of taxpayer-funded Federal contracts. The foundation argues against the rule because it would increase costs in order to discriminate against vast majority of American construction workers who are non-union. Washington, DC (October 17, 2022) – Today, the National Right to Work Legal Defense Foundation filed comments opposing a Federal Acquisition Regulatory (FAR) Council proposed rule to block non-union workers from working on federal contracts. The rule, which implements President Biden’s Executive Order 14063, requires federal agencies to impose PLAs (Project Labor Agreements) on contractors and employees who work on federal construction projects that will cost $35 million or more. PLAs mandate that, to work on a construction project, contractors’ workers must be under union monopoly control. Given that around 80 percent of construction workers and contractors have opted against unionization, this union-only requirement discriminates against the vast majority of America’s construction workers. This also drives up the costs to taxpayers due to inefficient union work rules that union officials insist on. Foundation attorneys note in the comments that “[t]here is no legitimate legal or policy basis for forcing employees and contractors to abide by union-only PLAs to work on major federal construction projects,” and that the executive order “is simply naked political payback by the current administration to its union supporters.” The comments explain six ways in which the proposed rule violates federal law, particularly noting that the PLA requirement “will serve only to harm construction workers who reject union representation,” arguing they will be “subjected to unwanted union representation; forced to pay union dues as a condition of employment in non-Right to Work states…and will have large portions of their compensation diverted to union pension plans from which they will receive no benefits,” among other things. The Foundation’s comments also point out that the proposed rule violates the Competition in Contracting Act (CICA), a federal law intended to improve costs by increasing competition for federal contracts. The comments state that shrinking the pool of contractors to only those that are willing to give into union boss demands “will inevitably lead to increased contracting costs for the federal government,” making the executive order and the rule it promulgates inconsistent with CICA. In fact, as the comments explain, the proposed rule itself acknowledges that “between 2009 and 2021, federal contracting officers—who are trained to award contract to bidders that provide the best value to the government —required the use of PLAs in only 12 out of the approximately 2,000 instances where a Federal construction project cost $25 million or more.” This statistic underscores the inefficiency of PLAs. The Foundation’s comments also argue that the proposed rule violates the Regulatory Flexibility Act (RFA) because it doesn’t analyze how small non-union contractors unwilling to submit to PLAs will be affected by the rule. The rule is also “arbitrary and capricious,” according to the comments, because of the rule’s failure to consider its cost impacts. “So-called ‘Project Labor Agreements’ simultaneously discriminate against the over 8 in 10 American construction workers who exercise their right not to associate with a labor union, while forcing taxpayers to shoulder the extra cost of wasteful union work rules,” commented National Right to Work Foundation President Mark Mix. “Once again the Biden Administration shows its willingness to throw rank-and-file workers under the bus, just to enrich their special interest allies in Big Labor.” ### The National Right to Work Legal Defense Foundation is a nonprofit, charitable organization providing free legal aid to employees whose human or civil rights have been violated by compulsory unionism abuses. The Foundation, which can be contacted toll-free at 1-800-336-3600, assists thousands of employees in about 250 cases per year. Its web address is www.nrtw.org. Editor's Note: It seems obvious to me that limiting the bidding pool for Federal government contracts will diminish competition, resulting in higher costs that will inevitably be passed along to the already beleaguered American taxpayer. -- Matt Weber

Table construction is a trending application for live-edge slabs. The slab alone can serve as the table top. You can build a wooden leg support structure, or reduce your labor and give the table an industrial touch by attaching prefabricated metal legs, as shown on this coffee table. The U-shaped metal legs fasten directly onto the underside of the slab. With the table top upside-down, use a tape measure to position the legs where you’d like them, typically centered on the bulk of the slab and parallel to each other. Mark the legs’ mounting holes with a pencil. Pre-drill the fastener holes to avoid splitting the wood. On this table, we used 1/4-in. lag screws to attach the metal legs. Before final assembly, move the table to a very level work surface. Position a bubble level across the bottoms of the legs in each direction to make sure the table will sit flat when upright. Slight deviations in the slab thickness or construction of the legs can cause problems. If you see any issues, insert shims as needed between the slab and the metal legs until you achieve level in each direction. Drive the fasteners through the mounting holes in the hardware. Make sure all fasteners are cinched down tight and the legs are secure before turning your table upright for use. This coffee table was made from a slab of poplar purchased from Rustic Lodge Works of Cullman, Alabama. Our first step was to cut the ends square, although I left a live edge along both long sides. On this project, I sanded off the tree bark but left the natural shape intact. Finish to your preference. For the table, I used a combination of teak oil and a semi-transparent gray wood stain. Use a square and tape measure to carefully position the legs on the underside of the table. Mark the screw holes and pre-drill pilot holes for the fasteners to avoid risk of splitting the wood. It's a good idea to mark the drilling depth on the drill bit with painter's tape, so you don't accidentally drill too deeply and penetrate the table top. Place a level on the legs in each direction to make sure your table will have a level surface when upright. Correct any minor problems by inserting shims between the table and the legs before screwing the legs in place. Fasten the hardware in place. On this project, we used 1/4"lag screws. Make sure your drill bit and fasteners are not long enough penetrate the top surface of your table. The final step was to apply a clear Polycrylic finish to protect the wood from water and stains.

Home Improvement & Repairs brings you the latest news on tools and supplies with our latest product roundup—straight from our office mailbox. TopZero Rimless Sinks TopZero is a global brand by Ukinox USA that offers the only true seamless, rimless undermount stainless steel sinks for kitchen and bathrooms. Undermount stainless steel sinks are preferred to drop-in sinks due to their practical advantage, but even undermount sinks have a joint between the countertop and the underside. That joint is sealed to the countertop with silicone, creating a bead which is tough to keep clean. With all the moisture around the sink area, this bead can promote bacteria growth and the eventual degradation of the actual silicone. In response, the TopZero system utilizes a rimless stainless-steel edge that reaches the surface level for a flawless, vanishing-edge appearance against almost any solid surface material, including granite, quartz, and engineered stone. Learn more at https://topzero.com/. Sunflare Peel-and-Stick Solar Panels After investing in the home of their dreams, many homeowners cringe at the thought of seeing large, bulky solar panels on the roof, yet there haven’t been many options without undergoing a full roof replacement. In response, Sunflare has created the PowerFit 20 peel-and-stick solar panels that are light, thin, flexible and nearly invisible from the ground when installed on a standing seam metal roof. The new PowerFit 20 lies flat and nests in between the ridges of your standing seam roof. Sunflare panels produce more energy and are more storm- and damage-resistant than traditional silicon panels, which can be cracked by hail or damaged in extreme heat or cold. Sunflare guarantees the reliability of the PowerFit panels for 25 years. Learn more at www.sunflaresolar.com. Oscillating Blades from Arrow Fastener all-new professional-grade oscillating blades from the pros at Arrow. Our new oscillating blade assortment is the culmination of our commitment to innovation and manufacturing excellence. Arrow’s state-of-the-art blade manufacturing technology ensures a sharp, durable edge capable of tackling any job. And best of all, our universal fit anchor allows for seamless use with major oscillating multi-tool brands such as Dremel®, Milwaukee®, DeWalt®, and more. Arrow’s Multi-Material Blades are engineered for cutting wood, wood with nails, PVC and drywall. Also available are blades for hardwood, metal-cutting, sanding and scraping, as well as specialty blades for applications such as grout and mortar removal. Visit https://arrowfastener.com/. Bosch 12V Max Brushless 3” Angle Grinder The Bosch GWS12V-30 12V Max 3 In. Angle Grinder is ideal for the pro who needs a compact powerhouse to get to those quick, difficult cuts in tight spaces other tools can't. With its brushless motor design and optimized gear structure, this efficient grinder produces 19,500 no-load rpm at only 1.5 Lbs. (tool only, not including battery). The grinder was engineered to fit the palm of a user’s hand, for outstanding ergonomics and control. This versatile tool is powerful enough to cut threaded rod, strut, conduit, tile and more. It features an innovative gear-mount design for fast wheel change; just pull the locking clip and unscrew the spindle screw. The grinder has restart protection to help prevent accidental start-up and overload protection to reduce the risk of the motor overloading or overheating. It also features fast braking time, stopping the wheel after the grinder is turned off. Visit www.boschtools.com. V-System with SMART Boost Choosing the best dust collector for your shop can be difficult, especially when you start combining mixed/undersized dust port and long runs of ducting or hoses. Oneida Air Systems' patented SMART Boost® technology offers the only solution that can adapt to nearly any shop layout. Where traditional dust collectors are fixed in speed and performance—unable to adapt to different port sizes, duct runs, and requiring careful blast gate management—the new V-System's SMART Boost variable-speed technology automatically adjusts to deliver up to 2-3 times more airflow to your tools. With its compact shape and sound dampening features, the V-System is perfect for garage and basement shops where size and noise play a significant factor. This new system will help you maximize your investment and ensure that your shop is running at peak-efficiency for years to come. Visit V-System with SMART Boost (oneida-air.com). Wood-Mode Custom Cabinetry Wood-Mode Fine Custom Cabinetry introduces two new transitional door styles: Arlington and Burlington, as well as a new tool to help facilitate the customer design process: the Wood-Mode 3D Door Visualizer. This new website feature allows a customer to select a door style and a color from Wood-Mode’s standard palette and then view this door and color combination on screen. Wood-Mode places high priority on designs that offer flexibility for a wide range of personal design preferences. This transitional approach lets designers enjoy a virtually unlimited design palette when combining a door style with a painted or stained finish and options in glazing, distressing and other custom characteristics. Visit www.wood-mode.com. Tando Architectural Sill and Sill Corner Tando, a brand of Derby Building Products, is featured in Professional Remodeler Magazine's Top 100 Products of 2022 in the Exterior category for its Architectural Sill and Sill Corner. Available in three colors, Architectural Sill's deep profile adds the look and feel of authentic stone for enhanced curb appeal. It is lightweight and easy to cut, allowing for quick, one-person installation with standard tools. Designed with moisture management in mind, Architectural Sill features a forward slope to guide water away from the structure. Tando’s Architectural Sill includes an integrated nailing flange that can be repurposed as a starter strip to allow easy installation beneath windows along with breakaway spacers that can be used as shims to transition to other products that require additional clearance. And the Architectural Sill Corner offers the flexibility to be used as an outside corner or can be cut on either side to act as an end cap. Visit www.tandobp.com. Metabo HPT 18V MultiVolt LED Work Light The new 18V MultiVolt LED Work Light (model UB18DDQ4) features extraordinary brightness from 216 white LED’s with 15 adjustment levels (1,000 up to 10,000 Lumen). The housing is weatherproof, water- and dust-resistant and IP65-rated. It operates with to 14.5 hours of runtime, and you can connect and charge smart devices with USB port for convenience. The work light accepts both 18V and 18V/36V MultiVolt batteries from Metabo HPT (batteries and charger sold separately). Visit www.metabohpt.com . Harbor Freight Hercules Cordless Tools Tools is expanding its popular professional quality HERCULES® line with the introduction of two new brushless, cordless power tools. Designed and built for professional use, both are backed by a five-year limited warranty and can be powered by any of the HERCULES 20V batteries available, including the all-new 8- and 12-Ah Extreme Performance Battery packs, which are backed by a three-year limited warranty. The new additions include the 20V 1/2” Brushless High Torque Cordless Impact Wrench and the 20V 1/2” Brushless Ultra Torque Cordless Impact Wrench. Both have a powerful three-speed motor with Auto Mode to provide more control, torque, runtime and durability than traditional brushed motors. Auto Mode provides the ultimate in control and includes a shut-off mode to prevent fasteners from being over-tightened, while the Bolt Removal Mode provides more control after bolt breakaway. The third speed delivers maximum speed and torque when working on tough jobs, particularly in hard-to-reach areas. Visit www.harborfreight.com. Ladder-Lock Ladder-Lock is a ladder conversion kit designed to increase the safety of its users by improving an extension ladder’s overall stability. Compatible with most 16- to 24-foot extension ladder models with hollow rungs, its patented technology significantly decreases the users chances of serious injury and even death. Ladder-Lock is currently available by special order only at ladder-lock.net and retails for $399. Created for everyone from professionals to DIY home renovators, the Ladder-Lock features two adjustable legs that connect at the ladder midpoint and two adjustable arms that anchor to the ladder's lowest rung, creating four points of contact that eliminates kicking out, sliding and tipping, and supports more weight than a ladder alone. Aluminum rods are inserted through the hollow rungs of both sets of legs and braces generating an ultra-sturdy base capable of bearing loads over 450lbs. Visit https://ladder-lock.net/. Milwaukee Cutting Pliers New cutting pliers provide users with the easiest cuts and feature an optimized pivot point design that gives maximum leverage to cut through tough materials. Built to last, these cutting pliers have laser-hardened edges and are engineered to deliver the smoothest open and close experience with no break-in period required. Offered in comfort grip with lanyard hole and dipped grip with a split-ring hole, these cutting pliers are tether-ready for complete tie-off while working on the jobsite. Designed for the trades, Lineman’s Pliers feature a reaming head for ½-inch to 1-inch conduit. Select models include an integrated crimper for insulated and non-insulated terminals, #6 and #8 bolt cutters, and straight fish tape puller or an integrated thread cleaner. Long Nose Pliers are designed to deliver the best grip featuring cross-hatched, laser-hardened teeth for maximum grip in pulling or twisting applications. They also feature a fish tape puller and a reaming head for ½-inch to 1-inch conduit. Visit www.milwauteetool.com. WORX Nitro 20V 4-1/2 in. Circular Saw The new WORX Nitro 20V Power Share 4-1/2 in. Circular Saw with high-efficiency brushless motor speeds crosscutting 2x4s and ripping plywood. At 4.6 lbs. (with battery), this compact saw has greater mobility without the bulk of a full-size 7-1/4 circular saw, plus it’s not dependent on an electrical outlet for power. In concert with the saw’s brushless motor, WORX engineered the saw’s circuity so its power under load increases up to 55 percent, based on material hardness it encounters. Power automatically increases when cutting hardwoods such as oak and maple, and readjusts when cutting softwoods like pine or wafer board. The saw’s circuitry technology is designed to conserves run time while increasing battery life. The compact saw is ideal for do-it-yourselfers and professionals Visit www.worx.com. SENCO Joist Hanger Nailers SENCO has introduced two new, powerful metal connector nailers that fire 2-1/2-in. nails commonly required in hurricane and seismic zones. The JN91P1 and JN91P2 pneumatic metal connector nailers are used for fastening pre-punched metal structural connectors like joist hangers, seismic/hurricane straps and rafter ties. They deliver 10 percent more power than competing nailers and previous-generation tools. The increased power allows consistent, complete sinking of nails in ultra-dense engineered lumber commonly used for structural beams. Both of the new tools shoot 1-½” to 2-½” nails ranging from .131 to .162 inches in diameter. The JN91P1 features a short magazine that holds a single rack of 34° paper tape-collated nails, offering a high degree of mobility between joists and rafters. The JN91P2 has an extended magazine that can accommodate two racks of nails, allowing users to maintain higher production rates with fewer reloads. Visit www.senco.com. Barrette Outdoor Living DIY-Friendly Aluminum Pergola Barrette Outdoor Living, Inc., offers a DIY-friendly aluminum pergola featuring a matte black finish. With a quick assembly time and requiring minimal tools (an Allen wrench/hex key is included), the 8-by-8-ft. pergola was designed with both the DIY’er and smaller spaces in mind. The Pergola is customizable by adding Barrette Outdoor Living’s compatible Decorative Screen Panels to the roof and optional side walls. Available in a wide range of patterns and colors, the addition of Decorative Screen Panels gives homeowners the ability to add their own personal style while also providing shade and increasing privacy. The Pergola comes standard with Cam Lock brackets that enable rooftop Decorative Screen Panels to be easily installed and removed with a simple twist — allowing homeowners to easily install panels, remove them during the winter months or completely swap out panels with different patterns and colors. Visit www.barretteoutdoorliving.com. Makita Outdoor Adventure 18V LXT Blower Kit Blow away dust and debris with the Outdoor Adventure 18V LXT Blower Kit (ADBU05ST1). It reaches fast speeds of 219 MPH and features a Makita-built high-torque motor with three speeds. The blower weighs just 4.1 lbs. (with battery) with a more compact design at 20-3/8-in. long and an ergonomic shape for reduced operator fatigue. The kit includes one 18V LXT 5.0Ah battery and 18V LXT Rapid Charger. For improved tool performance and extended battery life, Makita created Star Protection Computer Controls, a communication technology that allows the Star Protection-equipped tool and battery to exchange data in real time. This technology monitors conditions during use to protect against overloading, over-discharging, and overheating. Visit https://www.makitatools.com/.