Deck-building Tips from "Rich the Remodeler"
- Matt Weber

- 21 hours ago
- 6 min read

Here's an insightful interview about smart deck-building techniques with Rich Morse, AKA"Rich the Remodeler," a professional contractor from Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Morse stresses the importance of protecting the surfaces of deck framing with flashing tape.
Q1: How did you get started in the home improvement and remodeling industry?
I got started when I was 15-years-old. My father had a friend who was a carpenter, and I loved working with my hands, so I started helping him during the summers. From there, I moved into framing houses for another company and eventually became a framing foreman at 18-years-old.
One of the biggest lessons I learned early on came from a supervisor who told me that if I ever had downtime on a job site, I should pick up a broom and clean. That stuck with me throughout my career. Today, one of the things customers comment on most is how clean our job sites are at the end of the day.
Over the years, I expanded beyond framing into remodeling, kitchens, bathrooms, plumbing, electrical and tile work. We realized homeowners didn’t want to coordinate multiple contractors. They wanted one company that could handle everything, so we built our business around that idea, starting in Connecticut, then Vermont, and we’ve been in Lancaster since 1997. We founded Remodel Lancaster in 2014. I just love what I do. It’s not like work for me.
Q2: What are some of the most common mistakes you see when DIY’ers or less experienced contractors build decks?
The biggest mistake I see today is not protecting the framing with flashing tape. Using a product like FrogTape Pro Grade Deck and Joist Flashing Tape tape matters because it helps protect the deck’s structural framing from water intrusion, especially where fasteners penetrate the wood. By keeping moisture from sitting on top of joists and beams, it helps prevent rot and extends the life of the deck. In my opinion, if you are building a deck and not using deck joist tape, you are setting yourself up for problems later.
Another issue is improper framing practices. On one project we’re currently renovating, someone extended deck joists four feet beyond the beam to make the deck larger. Then they built a pergola on top of it. That’s far too much unsupported overhang and creates structural problems.
I also see mistakes involving improper application where the deck connects to the house. If water gets behind the ledger board, it can lead to major rot and structural damage over time.

This beam is encased in joist tape to seal around the fastener penetrations and provide long-term protection against moisture damage.
Q3: Why do you feel so strongly about using deck and joist tape?
I feel strongly about it because I’ve seen firsthand what happens when framing isn’t protected.
Years ago, we built a large deck for a customer. About 10 years later, they called because the deck felt spongy near the doorway. At first, I thought maybe we had missed a joist hanger or there was some kind of installation issue.
When we removed part of the decking, we found that the 2 ft x 10 ft joists had rotted dramatically from the top down. In some places, the joists were reduced to the equivalent of a 2 ft x 6 ft or smaller because moisture had penetrated around the fasteners and remained trapped over time.
That deck was built before deck joist flashing tape became common practice. At the time, there really weren’t products available like today. But that experience made a huge impression on me. Now, if someone asked me to build a deck without protecting the framing, I would politely decline the project.
Q4: What exactly happens to deck framing when it is not protected properly?
Moisture gets into the wood through the fastener penetrations and stays trapped between the decking boards and the framing. Over time, that constant exposure causes the wood to rot from the top down.
We recently took apart another structure where pressure-treated lumber had become saturated inside because water had entered through the screw penetrations and had nowhere to go.
A lot of people assume pressure-treated lumber lasts forever, but modern treated lumber formulas are different than they used to be years ago. Protecting the framing is much more important today than many people realize.
Q5: How do you apply deck and joist tape on a typical project?
We usually apply the tape before the joists are installed. Once the joists are cut to length, we place them on sawhorses and apply the tape there instead of crawling around on installed framing later. That keeps the process efficient and avoids having someone crawl across the framing later, trying to apply tape overhead or in awkward positions.

We use a squeegee as an applicator tool that's about the size of a credit card. It provides consistent pressure that ensures we are properly installing the flashing tape. What's great about the tool is it fits right in my tool pouch.
At the house connection, we also protect the ledger area carefully with flashing tape. We want to make sure water cannot work its way behind the framing where fasteners penetrate.
Once the joists are taped, they can be installed immediately.
Q6: Are there certain weather conditions or materials where the tape performs differently?
In general, warmer weather is always ideal for installing deck joist flashing tape, but I’ve been impressed with how well FrogTape brand products still perform in difficult conditions. I’ve seen the tape bond during rainy days where water was actively running across the surface.
I’ve personally used flashing tape products in very cold weather and even damp conditions where they still adhered extremely well.
Q7: Some contractors use liquid waterproofing products instead of tape. How do those compare?
I’m sure that liquid is a good product, and it shows that a contractor is doing something that they know they should be doing.
But in my opinion, tape provides more consistency. When you roll or brush on a liquid product, coverage thickness can vary from one spot to another depending on how carefully it’s applied.
Tape gives you a uniform protective layer across the entire framing surface. It’s also much cleaner and easier to work with. I’ve always preferred organized and clean job sites, so I appreciate products that help keep installations neat and efficient.
Another selling point: if your Frog Tape application isn’t quite right, you have time to reposition it. That is not possible with many deck and joist tapes. That feature has saved me more than once. Even better, if the tape accidentally sticks to itself, you can simply pull it apart. That alone sold me on the product. The FrogTape team really nailed it.
Q8: How does protecting the framing layer affect the finished deck above it?
The framing is the foundation of the entire deck system. If the framing underneath starts to fail, eventually the decking surface above it is going to fail too.
When we install deck joist tape, we know we’ve added a consistent protective layer between the framing and the decking boards. That protection helps preserve the structure and supports the long-term performance of the finished deck.
Good prep work underneath always affects how well the final product performs over time.
Q9: What do you say to homeowners who don’t want to spend extra money on tape because they’ll never see it once the deck boards are installed?
I understand where they’re coming from, because everyone has a budget. But I explain that the relatively small upfront investment can prevent major structural repairs years later.
I usually share the story about the deck we had to repair after the joists rotted out. When homeowners hear that real-world example, they understand why the protection matters.
To me, the cost of the tape is minor compared to the cost of replacing rotted framing later.
Q10: What other tools or products help make deck framing and tape installation go smoothly?
We rely heavily on good impact drivers, quality saws and sharp blades to keep framing precise and efficient. I prefer Milwaukee’s M18 Super Sawzall and the Gutster 60-in. demolition pry bar.
For the tape itself, as I shared, we like using a small squeegee tool to properly seat the tape onto the framing with some pressure. You don’t need excessive pressure, but seating it firmly helps ensure good adhesion and gives the installation a clean finished appearance.
Those little details can make a big difference in both productivity and long-term performance.





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