A wood plank ceiling offers a classic look that has become increasingly popular in recent years. In some cases, a DIY’er can complete a simple installation to give a rectangular room a decorative upgrade. For more complicated projects that are “over your head,” you’d better call a construction pro. Detailed Work Installation of a plank ceiling is essentially the same as a plank floor, but working on a ceiling can present some unique challenges. With flooring, for example, boards with square edges that butt flush against each other can create a smooth floor surface, even if the boards have slightly different heights. Although the height difference can result in a bit of lippage when installed, a floor sander usually levels out the boards. You won’t be able to sand down a ceiling, however, so the lippage would remain visible. For this reason, homeowners and contractors often prefer boards that have beveled edges which form V-shaped channels when assembled. The V-grooves hide slight discrepancies in the ceiling. Even though you can’t use a floor sander, keep in mind that unfinished wood needs to be sanded in order to take stain uniformly. For this reason, it’s a good idea to sand and pre-finish the boards before installation. The ceiling boards should be allowed to acclimate to the room where they’ll be installed. Beveled boards present their own challenges, though. On the project shown, for instance, the crew from Dustin Schwaiger Construction of Cullman, Alabama, weren’t working with a simple rectangular ceiling. These guys were tasked with installing the T&G boards on a multi-angle vaulted ceiling, which is not something you’ll encounter when laying a floor. Due to the intersecting angles, each board had to be cut to a precise bevel and/or miter angle that joins the surrounding boards with perfect alignment and near-seamless accuracy. The cuts require a compound miter saw, and if the angle is off, then the boards won’t align, and the V-grooves will be visibly mismatched when installed. That was unacceptable to the Schwaiger crew. “Our plan on this job is to install the boards so tightly that there will be no need for trim,” explained Dustin Schwaiger. As with flooring installation, you’ll need to plan a square layout that eliminates small sliver boards or noticeable pie-shaped cuts along the walls. Snap chalk lines to help guide the layout. If you think this sounds like a difficult task, you’re right, and the challenges are compounded by construction realities such as built-up joint compound at the drywall seams. When the flat ceiling surface is pushed just slightly out of plane by the drywall mud, it can affect the angle of the board joint. This can be frustrating even for an experienced professional. To battle this problem, Schwaiger would use a scrap board to make the cut, test its fit against the adjoining boards, readjust the cut angle until it achieves a perfect fit, then reproduce the final angle on the boards to be installed. This can be tricky, time-consuming work, and it’s why a project this complicated should be referred to a contractor. The intersecting angles of this vaulted ceiling made for a complicated installation. Installation Basics Ceiling plank installation is generally the same as for a floor. The boards should be prepared the same way by acclimating the wood to the space where it will be installed. For finished ceilings, first disconnect the electricity and remove all light fixtures and other obstacles. If the framing is not exposed, use a stud finder to locate and mark the ceiling joists. Scaffolding will be a huge help on any major ceiling project. Dustin Schwaiger runs the crew and operates the compound miter saw. Installation can require several trial cuts to dial in the perfect angle. In general, floor planks should be installed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, although the addition of a sub-ceiling or a layer of perpendicular furring strips will allow you to install parallel to the joists. If this is not an option, you can nail into solid framing where it’s present, glue the backs of the boards with construction adhesive, and blind-nail the T&G joints during installation. You’ll encounter the same general layout issues as with any floor installation. You’ll encounter the same general layout issues as with any floor installation. Measure the ceiling area and divide by the exposed face of a plank to avoid being left with a small sliver of boards on the final row. If that is the case, then begin installation with a ripped partial board to allow room for a larger final row. Also, check the ceiling for square. If the diagonal measurements in each corner aren’t the same, you should establish a square, straight line as a starting point. The key is to create a line parallel to the end wall. A chalk line can help guide the installation. Establishing a square first row will avoid having odd pie-shaped planks along the final row. Matthew Hancock fastens the boards in place with 16-gauge nails. A scaffolding system will be a huge help on any ceiling project. Nail the boards solidly into the framing. On the project shown, the crew fastened the boards with 2-1/2-in. 16-gauge finish nails, supplementing this with construction adhesive. Avoid driving fasteners closer than an inch from the end grain to avoid splitting the wood. Using construction glue reduces the need for nails and the associated repair work. Gluing will also prevent the planks from rattling and vibrating. When installing boards parallel to solid framing, construction glue is applied to the backs of the T&G planks. In some cases, shims might be necessary to achieve a perfect fit to the joints. For ceiling installations, homeowners often prefer full-length boards to avoid visible end joints. If you or your installer are not using full-length boards, then be sure to stagger the end-joints from row to row. The cut edges of the planks along the wall edges can be hidden with molding or trim strips stained to match the new ceiling. Or, maybe your installer has skills like Dustin Schwaiger and crew, who cut and installed the boards on this project with such precision that no trim was needed. That’s quite the accomplishment on a vaulted ceiling like the one shown here, but these guys succeeded spectacularly. Professional installation can achieve a near-seamless appearance. This ceiling was installed with such accuracy and attention to detail that no trim or molding was necessary to dress up the edges. Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Dustin Schwaiger Construction company for help with this article. Find them on Facebook and Instagram @dustinschwaiger.

Decks that Make the Grade! Grade-level decks present an attractive alternative to hardscaping and are often less expensive to build than elevated decks. “The most popular choice of deck among our customers is a floating deck, which is low to the ground and requires no railing,” says Kerry Murray, owner of Mjolnir Construction of Stittsville, Ontario. In the U.S., decks built lower than 30 inches from the ground don’t require guardrails. (The rule is 24 inches in Ontario, so check local codes). If a grade-level deck is built as a freestanding structure, it won’t require a ledger connection to the house or the associated hardware, nor will it require excavation for frost-depth footings. In many cases, a ground-level deck won’t even require a building permit. Grade-level floating platforms can be incorporated into multi-level decks, as shown on this project from Mjolnir Construction. Footings Because freestanding or “floating” decks do not require frost-depth footings, the posts and beams can be supported by shallow footings. This is due to the low safety risk of frost heaving on a ground-level deck. You should always check with your local code-enforcement department for specific guidance, however, which might require you to dig a minimum footing depth of 12 inches below the ground. For grade-level freestanding decks, you can skip the time and labor associated with mixing concrete by using precast concrete piers or stacked and glued concrete blocks as footings. Pre-cast concrete piers are available at most hardware stores and landscape supply centers. In the U.S., decks built lower than 30 inches from the ground don’t require guardrails. Composite decking can provide a sleek uniform deck surface in a wide range of low-maintenance colors and textures. Notice the bed of river rock to facilitate drainage beneath the framing. Joists & Beams A slope in the grade might allow clearance for a cantilever beam on one side of the deck, but if there’s no room for a beam, then the rim joist will serve as the beam, and the joists will connect to the rim with metal hangers. Corner brackets can help maintain squareness of the deck frame during construction. Double or triple the thickness of the rim to add strength and rigidity to the framing. You should frame the deck with Ground Contact Lumber. Ground contact means that the pressure-treated lumber is approved for applications that require the component to be either placed on or directly in the ground (such as deck or fence posts). Even if the lumber doesn’t actually touch the ground, this type of lumber should be used because it has extra preservative to better withstand near-to-the-ground conditions where moisture can be more prevalent because ventilation is limited. Due to the limited ventilation below the deck, another option would be to upgrade the metal hangers and hardware to stainless steel which will prevent corrosion. In many cases, lack of clearance beneath the deck surface means the rim joist will serve as the beam with the joist connected to it with metal hangers. Fortifying the rim joist by doubling or tripling its thickness will add strength and rigidity to the deck frame. Moisture Control Since moisture can be an issue for grade-level decks, you should begin by sloping the earth away from the house foundation to ensure there is positive drainage. One way to prepare the site for moisture control is to dig out the earth of the deck site, line it with a layer of landscape fabric to prevent weed growth, then backfill with 3/4-in. clear limestone that will shed water away from the framing to facilitate drainage. Check your decking manufacturer’s recommendations regarding any further requirements for air circulation to prevent any performance problems. Products and guidelines will vary. Landscape fabric beneath the deck frame will prevent weed growth. To facilitate drainage, Kerry Murray suggests adding 3/4” clear limestone beneath the deck over the landscape fabric. On the deck shown, Mjolnir Construction prevented 100 pieces of lumber from going into the landfill. The customer wanted the deck framed with new pressure-treated material, but for the deck boards and skirting they wanted to use reclaimed 2x6 lumber that had been given to them from a construction site. Mjolnir designed the frame to accommodate the lengths of 2x6 to avoid unnecessary joints in the deck boards, then a good pressure-wash brought out the unique appearance of the wood. After a waterproofing stain is applied, this deck will stand the test of time and demonstrate the company’s commitment to being an environmentally conscious small business. SIDE NOTE Building a Strong Foundation We were asked how we prepare the base for our floating decks, and here is how,” explains Kerry Murray of Mjolnir Construction. “At the wall of the house, which is the highest point in the yard, we remove the grass and 4 inches of dirt. Then we fill this pocket with limestone and tamp it down to pack it. We lay down a 16"x16"x2" paver stone, which ends up being flush with the finished grade, giving us our base. "The beam of our deck then sits directly on top of the paver stone to keep the deck as low as possible to the ground. As the grade drops further away from the house, we simply add a 6x6 post to make up the change in grade.” Editor’s note: Special Thanks to Kerry Murray and Mjolnir Construction for contributing photos and information to this article. You can find Mjolnir Construction online at https://mjolnirconstruction.ca and follow their Instagram page @mjolnirconstruction.

HIR recently reported on Maxterra MgO panels from NexGen Building Products. These Magnesium Oxide (MgO) panels can be used as a direct replacement for plywood and OSB for exterior sheathing, drywall panels, subfloors, floor underlayment, tile backer panels and more. Since they're made of magnesium oxide and other minerals, the panels are non-combustible and provide zero flame spread and zero smoke spread. This is ideal in wall sheathing, subflooring, and roof deck applications, especially when you consider that every 23 seconds, a fire department in the United States responds to a fire somewhere in the nation. A home fire occurs every 89 seconds. To demonstrate the importance of these fire-resistant properties in dramatic fashion, Steve Grady NEXGEN Building Products Chief Client Officer, sent me a video. As Grady explains, it, "When one of the benefits of your product is fire resistance, people want to see it tested. And who are we to say no? So, we built half of a structure using OSB and the other half using our Maxterra MgO panels and set it ablaze. Spoiler alert, one side burned down, and one side didn’t. I know you weren’t there, but not to worry, we filmed the whole thing in this video..." Learn more about Magnesium Oxide building materials at https://nexgenbp.com/. #maxterra #mgopanels #MgO #magnesiumoxidepanels #buildingmaterials #sheathing #roofing

Your soil’s health is what determines the overall health of your grass and other plants. When you work from the ground up, you are ensuring superior grass quality. Fertilizing your lawn regularly is good practice to make sure your grass is getting nutrients, but what if you aren’t sure which exact nutrients your lawn needs at the time? For example, you may be applying an abundance of nitrogen, but you aren’t really seeing a difference in your grass’s appearance or quality. You might also notice that grass isn’t growing as well in some areas of your lawn as others, but you aren’t sure why. The best way to diagnose a problem before spending time and money on other solutions is to collect and submit a soil analysis in your yard. A soil analysis will inform you of all the nutrients you need in your lawn. What is a soil test? A soil test is a tool that can be used to determine which macro and micronutrients are currently in your soil and which nutrients your lawn and garden needs to reach its optimum pH level. Most of the time, companies will make suggestions on how to improve your soil’s quality with fertilizers or other amendments based on the results from the soil test. Soil tests can come in different shapes and sizes, but they all require you to collect a sample of soil from your lawn and place it in some sort of small container or baggie to submit to an expert. Whether you mail a package in or drop it off at your local cooperative extension office depends on the company or turfgrass expert you go with. Why should I use a soil test? A soil test is an inexpensive way to see what your soil needs to perform its best. A soil analysis essentially measures the pH of your soil and provides nutrient recommendations to achieve optimum performance. Regularly applying fertilizer products and other chemicals can impact the pH levels of your soil, so collecting and submitting a soil sample provides information about which nutrients your lawn needs or doesn’t need. For example, if you’re looking at purchasing a nitrogen fertilizer, a soil sample might come back and say there’s already more than enough nitrogen in the ground already. Your lawn may need other nutrients to excel instead. A pro to this is that you won’t waste money on fertilizers your lawn and garden don’t need. After soil test results recommend solutions, the fertilizer chemicals will be absorbed into the plant and won’t sit in the soil. Over-applied fertilizers that don’t get absorbed typically get washed away with the rain into streams and other natural bodies of water, which is harmful to the environment. A soil test will tell you exactly what the soil needs so that you can make an educated decision on which fertilizer or nutrients to purchase. By improving the environment your lawn and garden grows in, you’re essentially working from the ground up to improve your lawn and garden’s health. With that being said, there are different soil types depending on where you live. Each soil type tends to have different pH levels. How do I collect and submit a soil analysis? This often depends on the company you’re submitting the soil test to. Sometimes they’ll want you to place the soil in a container they mail to your address. Other times, they’ll provide you with instructions for collecting the sample and placing it in a container or baggie of your own. If you’re collecting a soil sample and placing it in your own container (not one provided to you by a professional) it’s important that you collect the sample in a container that won’t affect the pH levels of your soil. Plastic containers like a bucket or baggies are usually the best options—not metal. You should always follow the instructions each company or cooperative extension office provides you with when collecting and submitting a soil sample. However, it’s often recommended you collect soil samples from various locations throughout your yard and then combine them into one collective soil sample. Soil samples have the ability to widely vary in different locations in your yard—even if it’s just a few feet away from the site another soil sample came from. Collecting from different areas of the lawn reduces any inconsistencies from the different locations in your lawn and allows the soil sample to test a larger area. Instructions for collecting a soil sample 1. You’ll start by collecting several soil samples in plastic probes or baggies. Make sure they’re thoroughly cleaned before use so they don’t contaminate your sample. 2. Walk in a zigzag pattern as you collect the samples. Most universities and landscape professionals recommend collecting soil from about 10–15 locations. Use a shovel or soil probe like the ones listed below to collect the samples. Each sample should remove soil from the top 6 inches from the soil’s surface. 3. Afterwards, remove any plant material, mulch or natural soil organisms like worms and drop the soil samples into a plastic bucket. Mix the samples well to make sure it’s blended. 4. Dump the soil out on a newspaper or grocery bag and then allow it to dry. Wet soil may alter the soil analysis, so make sure it’s dry before collecting. 5. Once dry, you’ll want to collect about 1 pint of the soil to send to your turfgrass expert. Areas in the lawn, vegetable garden, ornamental beds or problem areas should all be tested separately. Be sure to remove any plants or mulch from the sample. When is the best time to collect and submit a soil analysis? The best time to collect and submit a lawn soil analysis ultimately depends on where you live and what type of grass you have. The best time to soil test a warm season grasses such as zoysia, St. Augustine, bermuda grass and centipede grass should ideally be collected in the spring. This generally takes place between March 15th and April 30th. Soil tests for cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues should be collected between August and September. Generally speaking, the best time to collect soil samples from gardens or ornamental beds is during the fall. You can then make amendments before winter so that they can take effect in the spring. One of the best times to conduct a sod analysis is when you are about to install new sod because it allows you to see what nutrients you need after the installation process is finished. This will help you get your lawn off to a healthier start. Be sure to collect a soil sample before applying chemicals like glyphosate to kill off old grass as this can alter your lawn soil test. However, it is never a bad idea to conduct a soil analysis if you need to see what nutrients your lawn or garden needs. How often should I test my soil? Most lawn and garden professionals recommend testing your soil once every 1–3 years. Some experts suggest once every 3–5 years. We believe submitting soil samples are invaluable ways to keep your lawn and garden healthy—it also rarely costs a lot of money. Unless there are problems occurring in your lawn and garden, we suggest submitting a soil sample once every 1–3 years. If problems arise like poorly performing turfgrass or ornamentals, you should send a soil sample in right away. Who do I send a soil test to? There are many different professionals you can send a soil sample to. Most of them can be divided into two groups: 1) a local cooperative extension office, or 2) a company you bought a soil test kit from and mail it back to. 1. A Local Cooperative Extension Office Each state has its own soil testing cooperative extension office you can either drop your sample off at or mail it in to. Find your local cooperative extension office here. Be sure to visit the local cooperative extension office’s website and follow soil testing instructions thoroughly. Many of these websites have a soil testing form you can print off and fill out to send with the sample. 2. A Company You Bought a Soil Test Kit From Another option is to buy a soil test kit from a company and submit it back to them in the mail. If this is what you’re looking to do, some of these companies will still have someone who can professionally test your soil sample and provide you with accurate results and recommendations. Just be sure to do your research on what they can offer you. Depending on the company you go with, their results forms might also be easier to read and comprehend. One of our favorite companies for soil samples is Soil Kit. Soil Kit performs this service for the homeowner with an inexpensive, user-friendly and quick soil test system providing easy-to-understand recommendations for correcting soil and nutrient deficiencies. The analysis is done by a leading national laboratory and the recommendations are ready in 7–10 days. The lab tests for pH and includes the amount of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, boron, zinc, manganese and iron in the soil. These are presented in a low, medium, adequate and high graphic range analysis to support the recommendations for corrective nutrient action by the homeowner. Most importantly, the recommendations are tailored to your location, time of year, size of lawn or garden, type of crop or grass and presented in precise product and quantity recommendations. Soil Kit is easy to use. Simply follow the directions on the bag and on our Soil Kit website: 1. Register your kit on soilkit.com. 2. Collect soil from four areas of your lawn or garden and place it in the test bag. 3. Mail in the sample bag in the postage-paid mailer. 4. Our leading national agricultural lab will test your soil with in-depth analysis. 5. Results are easy to understand and recommendations are delivered to you in your soilkit.com dashboard via email. 6. Take your report back to the store and know that you will return home with exactly what your lawn needs without more chemicals that might damage your lawn or the environment. How much do soil samples cost? The amount a soil test costs depends on who you choose to do the soil analysis. Universities generally charge between $10–$15 while it can vary for companies. Some cost about $12 while others can run up to $40. How long does it take to receive my soil testing results? When you submit your analysis to a local cooperative extension office, the soil analysis takes between 3–4 days usually. During heavy sampling times like April or May, it might take as long as 1–2 weeks. How do I read a soil analysis? Soil test results come in all kinds of different forms. Generally speaking, you’ll receive a sheet of paper or a digital report that will provide you with information on which nutrients your soil is lacking and which nutrients your soil is plentiful with. Some soil tests will give you a simple N-P-K analysis (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) while others might go into more detail. In general, most soil analyses will provide you with your soil’s results compared to what the optimal results should be. Ratings may include an analysis for your pH levels, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sodium (Na), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B) and lime and fertility requirements. pH levels range from 1 to 14 with 1 being very acidic, 14 as very alkaline and 7 as neutral. Your soil’s pH depends on your soil type, however, your lawn and garden are more receptive to absorbing nutrients at a pH rating between 6.0–7.0. Oftentimes, homeowners over-apply nitrogen fertilizers and other macronutrients (N, P, K) without also including the proper amount of micronutrients (S, Ca, Mg, Na, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B). Although they’re micronutrients, they’re essential to your lawn and garden’s health and can make a huge difference. Another key nutrient that often plays an underdog in lawn and garden nutrition is carbon. Along with nitrogen and oxygen, carbon is one of the essential building blocks of all organic life. In fact, 50 percent of a plant is made up of carbon. Like plants and animals, soil is also carbon-based and needs carbon, nitrogen and oxygen to remain balanced and healthy. How do I improve my soil after a soil analysis? Soil analysis solutions can vary. Some soil testing results will come with suggestions for products that will help your lawn and garden. If they don’t, you’ll need to know how to read a fertilizer label so that you can choose the best fertilizer for your soil. Alkaline soils will need nutrients to make it slightly more acidic so that it reaches the 6.0–7.0 pH range. On the other hand, acidic soils will need nutrients that make it more alkaline. Sod University recommends the Lawnifi® Fertilizer Annual Subscription program. Lawnifi, a cutting-edge fertilizer, reduces the age-old problems associated with ionic nutrient lockup. Powered by Catalyst TechnologyTM, Lawnifi nano-sizes its nutrients so that more of them are absorbed through the roots and leaves of plants. As a result, larger amounts of nutrients are efficiently delivered to plants. The amount of product that needs to be applied is significantly reduced while using 80 percent less nitrogen and yielding better results. With less nitrogen usage, Lawnifi fertilizers work to balance C:N ratios in your soil for optimum soil and microbial health. Ultimately, soil tests are invaluable tools that will provide you with a lot of information as to how you can improve your lawn and garden’s health. Most of the time, they’re also inexpensive. Editor's Note: This article appears courtesy of Sod university. Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to their weekly newsletter.

Do the leaks in this photo look familiar? When a tub or shower faucet leaks, the trouble often lies behind the handles, which turn the valves that control the water flow. These valves should be fixed quickly; aside from the irritating dripping sound, a leaky faucet can waste a lot of water on a daily basis. Repairs are fairly simple, but you’ll need a special set of deep-socket wrenches called a “shower-valve socket wrench set.” A shower-valve set provides the super-deep wrenches needed to remove tub and shower valves. The wrenches are each double-sided, accommodating the 10 standard sizes of plumbing fasteners to make most any residential shower or bath valve repair. The wrench sets are available at most hardware stores for about $15. STEP 1 Shut off the water supply to the faucet before disassembling the handles. STEP 2 Modern faucet valves usually have rubber washers that seal water. Over time, the washers can deteriorate and leak. To get to these, first pry the decorative cap off the handles. (In some cases these caps are threaded.) STEP 3 Remove the handle’s retaining nut and pull the handle off the valve stem. STEP 4 Remove the escutcheon, which is often held with a retaining nut. If not, then the escutcheon is threaded over the valve stems, and you can unscrew the entire escutcheon as one piece. Cut away any caulk that might be holding it to the wall. A strap wrench may help encourage a stubborn one to turn. STEP 5 The bonnet nut that holds the valve stem in place is recessed behind the wall, requiring a special wrench. A deep-socket shower valve wrench will fit over the protruding valve stem and reach the bonnet nut for removal. Unscrew and remove the bonnet nut. STEP 6 Pull the stem from the wall to expose the black, rubber seat washer and retaining screw. Remove the screw and worn seat washer. Replace with a new washer, coated in heat-proof faucet grease. Use the correctly sized and shaped seat washer and press it firmly into the stem’s retainer. If the metal valve stem is in good shape, you’re ready to reassemble the shower handles and test your faucet. Sometimes all that's needed is a new rubber washer. However, some metal stems may be corroded, worn out, and need replacement. When purchasing the new stems, note the model numbers, typically labeled with either H or C, indicating hot or cold. These determine the direction of handle rotation. Get one of each; be sure to keep them straight during installation. The valves are sold in different sizes per manufacturer, so it's a good idea to take the old valves to the hardware store to ensure an exact match. STEP 7 Coat the rubber seat washer with heat-proof faucet grease and install the new valve stem. Note: If the threaded junction of the shower head and plumbing spout leaks, wrap the threads with thread-seal tape in the same direction that the head screws onto the spout, then reinstall the shower head. Editor’s Note: The images in this article are excerpted from The Quick & Easy Home DIY Manual by Matt Weber published by Weldon Owen. #showerleak #faucetleak #stopleak #fixleak

(guest post by Raymond Web) Not all the birds are delightful in your garden. Some pesky birds can pick on your trees and eat your fruits and vegetables. Do you have such uninvited visitors to your home and garden, leaving behind their droppings and making a mess? It can be annoying, and some of your family members can be allergic to birds and their droppings. But how to keep birds out of the garden? This post will share seven tips on protecting your garden from birds. All these bird-control solutions are humane and effective. 1. Rely on Predatory Animals Another effective way to keep birds away is by using predators to scare them away. Hawks, owls, and other birds of prey can be used to scare birds away from your home and garden. You can also use domesticated predatory animals such as cats or dogs. One alternative is to place replicas of the birds’ natural predators, such cats and owls, in areas where birds are causing a nuisance. These objects should be made of a material which can withstand the outdoors, such as plastic, stone or aluminum. 2. Hang Garden Balls Finally, one unique and natural garden bird repellent is a round garden ball. These are specially designed balls you can hang from trees, fences, or other structures in your yard. The balls have a reflective surface that can scare birds. Photo © De-Bird These spherical orbs can make incredible decorations for your yard or garden. And birds may think they are eyes and try to avoid them. 3. Apply Garden Netting Garden netting is an excellent way of protecting plants from birds. Simply cover your garden in bird netting - this immediately prohibits them from entering the area. It’s a great solution if you have trees and shrubs that birds like to hang out in. Photo © Bird-X Always use durable bird netting for the house or garden, made from a strong material that won’t easily tear apart. And it’s also crucial that the net is pulled tightly, as loose netting is useless. Along with this, deter insects by growing certain plants that keep insects away such as lavender, lemongrass, basil, etc. 4. Sensory Deterrents - Use Sights, Sounds, and Smells to Repel Birds One of the best ways to scare birds away from home and the garden is to use sound deterrents. This method often utilizes loud noise-making devices or even playing recordings of predators like hawks and owls that birds naturally fear. Photo © Bird-B-Gone Apart from scaring birds with artificial sound, you can also use other scare devices such as strobe lights, holographic strips, and aromatic bird-repellents which contain a 20-percent concentration of Methyl Anthranilate, a food-grade ingredient proven to repel birds. All of these can help keep birds away from your home and garden. 5. Use Physical Barriers Physical barriers work best for repelling birds from your garden and home. This could include installing window screens or covering vents. You can also post up bird spikes or create a fence or wall around your garden. All of these solutions help keep birds from entering your home and garden. Photo © Bird-B-Gone Bird spikes are like barbed wire for birds, preventing them from perching on nearby sills, roof peaks, or ledges. By making it difficult for birds to roost on your property, you can deter them from gathering there. 6. Use Scarecrows to Scaring Birds Away It may sound old fashioned, but scarecrows, when used correctly, can be an effective way to keep birds away from your garden and home. Scarecrows come in all shapes and sizes. You can buy one from the market or make a DIY model. They can help discourage and scare birds from the garden when placed strategically. Just make sure you move the scarecrow around occasionally and switch up its appearance to keep birds from getting used to it. 7. Seek the Help of Pest Prevention Services You may want to consider getting help from professional pest control company that offers bird-deterrent services. Trained service providers can provide you with a variety of solutions. Customized services like netting, bird spikes, and other bird-exclusion and removal treatments can help you get the desired results. Combining solutions may be the best approach to deter birds from your property, and the pest-control specialist will help you determine a customized a plan.

(guest post by Katie Jacobs) There is no better time to spend outdoors than when the weather begins to warm up again and everything starts coming back to life. After a winter spent mostly indoors, everyone is ready to get outside and enjoy some fresh air. Preparing your outdoor space for the spring season now will allow you to really make the most out of the precious spring months that we anticipate all winter long. Check out our list of projects that you can get working on now to make this the most enjoyable spring season yet. 1. DIY Patios (Image courtesy of Pavestone) A patio is a simple way to add a hardscape outdoor space that will get lots of use. Imagine sipping your morning coffee or a glass of wine in a peaceful outdoor space right outside your door. While more elaborate patios are best installed by professionals, simple options can be designed and installed by homeowners with a little research and creativity. DIY patios can be constructed using stones, bricks or concrete. 2. Outdoor Fireplaces or Fire Pits (image courtesy of Rumblestone) Even during spring and summer months, evenings can still get chilly. An outdoor fire is a great way to stay comfortable outside when the sun goes down. There are many beautiful ways to incorporate an outdoor fire to your property from simple fire pits that are easy to purchase and install to professionally designed and installed fireplaces that can be built to compliment the aesthetics of your home. 3. Swimming Pools Warmer temperatures mean that it’s time for swimming, so now is a good time to think about adding an outdoor pool with some sort of deck for sunbathing and socializing. Many above-ground pools can be bought online for less than you might think. There are more substantial above-ground pools that even have options for adding a deck. In-ground pools are much more of an investment but offer the opportunity to add decks with space for outdoor furniture and beautiful design options. 4. Hardscape Lighting One of the most simple and impactful ways you can brighten up your outdoor space (literally!) is to add hardscape lighting. This is another option that can be done on either a DIY or professional basis. You would be shocked at how much something as simple as lighting can totally transform your property. On top of adding curb-appeal, deck and hardscape lighting also makes it so much easier to enjoy being outside on spring and summer nights. If you want to tackle an outdoor lighting project on your own, this page has some great tips that will help you make it happen. Click here for some ideas. (image courtesy of Trex) 5. A Garden Connect with nature by planning and planting a garden when the time is right so that by springtime you can enjoy seeing your plants and flowers grow. The great thing about a garden is that it can be as simple or as elaborate as you want it to be. A garden can be planted in a natural bed in your yard or you can build or purchase beds. Just starting out as a gardener? Check out this site for tips on how to get started and to learn what will grow in your area: How to Start Your Own Garden. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to the weekly newsletter.

As a building material, tile provides limitless design options and has done so for thousands of years. When made of ceramic, porcelain or natural stone, tile makes a reliable floor covering because it does not burn, fade or easily stain when properly installed. Ceramic tile is water-resistant, stands up to wear, and can feasibly last as long as the substrate that supports it. Whether you hire out the work or attempt to tackle the installation yourself, the following are some helpful tips to keep in mind for your next tile project. Place Your Order Research the types of tile available for your project. For flooring, vitrified tiles are best because they're durable and can withstand heavy traffic. Vitrified tile is a ceramic tile with low porosity often used outdoors due to its frost resistance. Porcelain tiles fall under the category of vitrified tiles. For outdoor floor tiles, ceramic tile manufacturers offer a wide variety of slip-resistant flooring options for any application. Size matters. Large format tiles lend a more spacious look to a large living space, but the tiles should match the room size. Large tiles in a smaller room can make the room look even smaller. If this is the case, use medium size tiles. When remodeling a small bathroom, most designers recommend using small tiles, because large tiles can make the room feel crowded and cramped. Always purchase an additional 5 to 10 percent more tiles than you need for coverage. The extra material takes care of cuts and breakages during installation. Most companies will offer a refund on unused boxes of tile. Tiles are available glazed or unglazed. Glazed tiles have a layer of liquid glass added to the tile prior to the firing process. (Note that for unglazed tiles, some grouts recommend use of a grout-release agent to prevent staining and make cleanup easier.) You have options for floor-tile adhesive. Ready-mixed thinset mortar might be easiest to use for DIY'ers because it can be used straight from the container. Powder thinset mortar must be mixed with water but is less expensive, making it more economical for large floors. Ask your flooring supplier which adhesive will work best for a given application. The type of tile, where the tile will be installed, and the type of substrate are all important factors. What Type of Flooring Can You Put Over Ceramic Tile? It's important to choose the right mortar trowel for the job. Generally speaking, most standard size floor tile installed with mortar will require a 1/4-in. square-notched trowel. For 16-by-16-in. or larger tiles, choose a larger trowel with notches at least 1/2 inch deep. For mosaic sheets, use a 3/16-in. V-notched trowel to spread the adhesive. However, trowel size really should be selected based on what size provides the required coverage and mortar thickness for your application. You also have options for grout. Use sanded grout for joints from 1/8 inch up to 5/8 inch to resist cracking and shrinkage. Use unsanded grout for grout joints up to 1/8 inch. Use only unsanded grout with glass, polished marble, or metal tile to avoid scratching the tile. Acrylic grout is a great option for wet areas like decks and showers because it’s mildew-resistant and retains color well. Epoxy grout is less DIY-friendly than other types, but it doesn't need to be sealed. Avoid using too much water when mixing grout, which could weaken the grout joints. Buy extra grout to make sure you'll have enough to complete the project, and always read and follow the product instructions carefully. Plan to include a radiant heat system? If so, now is the time to explore the many low-voltage systems that work well to heat an otherwise cold tile floor. Research the latest tile floor innovations when planning your order. For example, an uncoupling membrane such as the Ditra underlayment from Schluter Systems allows the tile to move independently of the subfloor, preventing cracks and breakage. Ditra-HEAT is a hardwired radiant floor-heating system that can be easily integrated into the uncoupling layer to warm the tiles. Prep Steps For floor tile, check the subfloor for level and flatness. Checking for level is particularly important if you’ll be adding wall tile. Set a 4-ft. level on a long straight board to read over a large area. Swivel the board to find dips or bumps. The floor doesn’t have to be perfectly flat, but the requirement is typically no more than 1/4 in. variation in 10 feet and no more than 1/16 in. variation in 12 inches. For uneven concrete, it might be necessary to grind down the surface or apply a self-leveling underlayment to flatten the subfloor. Plywood subfloors with high spots can be belt-sanded. Tile should be installed over a rigid underlayment that resists swelling and contraction, which can damage the finished floor. For plywood subfloors (minimum 19/32 in. thick), cement-board works well for a tile underlayment. You can ensure a durable subsurface for tile over plywood by installing fiber-cement board as an underlayment. Stagger any joints between cement-board panels (and avoid aligning them with the subfloor joints). Leave an 1/8-in. gap between the board edges and install according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically with a supporting bed of mortar. Drive the fasteners flush, spacing them according to the product's instructions. Fill the joints with mortar, and apply fiber tape to the joints prior to tiling. Not only should tile subfloors be flat, but also strong and rigid. Joist spacing must not exceed 24 in. on center. Any give or flexibility in the subfloor can lead to cracks in the grout joints. (See side note below.) For tile installed over a sturdy subfloor, you can also use a new polyethylene membrane that “uncouples” the thin-set mortar from the subfloor to protect against material movement. Tile Layout For floor tile, check the room for square. You can use the 3-4-5 Rule to check that the corners form right angles: A. Measure and mark a point 3 feet from the corner along one wall. B. Measure and mark a point 4 feet from the same corner on the intersecting wall. C. Measure a diagonal line between the two points. It should measure 5 feet if the chalk lines are at 90 degrees. (In large rooms you can double the ratio; i.e., 6-8-10). D. If the room is less than 1/8-in. out of square within 10 feet, it can usually be disguised within the layout. However, if one wall is significantly out of square, then lay out the floor so the tapered tiles will run along the least noticeable wall. A standard procedure for floor tile layout in a rectangular room is called the quarter method, in which the room is actually divided into four quarters to help sequence the layout. First step is to measure and mark the midpoint of all four walls. Snap intersecting chalk lines at the center point of the site, forming a square cross. Start by laying a row of tiles in a dry run along each of the four lines, all the way to the walls, creating a cross of tiles in the center of the room. If necessary, use plastic spacers to keep the grout joints even. Lay tile starting from the center and work your way outward. Any cut tiles will be at the edge of the floor. Adjust the layout so that all cut tiles will be the same size on one side of the room as the other side. Keep in mind, however, that most homeowners prefer a row of full tiles at the room’s entry. Tiles placed in a diagonal pattern can make a room appear larger. For diagonal tile layout, use the center point established with the quarter method and snap lines across the two diagonals of the room creating an “X” on top of the cross. Then lay out the tiles along the X as with using the quarter method. Make sure the lines are at true right angles and that the partial border tiles are equal in width. Rectangular rooms make it easy to design the tile layout, but oddly shaped rooms or those with obstacles such as kitchen islands can be more complicated. For a visual reference, sketch a scale drawing of the living space on graph paper, including measurements, walls and any other obstacles. Tile is sold in square-foot quantities, and graphing the area can help determine the quantity needed. Flooring professionals will remove all baseboard trim before laying the tile. However, if floor space is not a primary concern and the baseboard has a tall enough profile, you might be able to save time and labor by running the tile against the baseboards and concealing the joint with shoe molding. Leave an expansion gap between the tile and baseboards. Installation Advice Use a trowel to spread mortar over the floor where the tile will go, combing the bed to create furrows, but be careful not to press the trowel down all the way to the concrete or backer-board. As you apply the tile to the mortar, twist it slightly and press down. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the center of the tile to set it properly. For tiles larger than 8-by-8 inches, back-butter the floor tiles prior to installation. "Back buttering" refers to spreading mortar onto a tile just before it is placed to ensure proper adhesive coverage. This is particularly important with natural stone tiles which tend to be more brittle. The thin layer of adhesive on the tile bonds easily with the layer troweled onto the floor to eliminate air gaps and create a strong bond. Make sure tiles are level with one another by placing a long straight-edge across several tiles in a row. Adjust the installation to fix any discrepancies before the mortar sets. Some tiles will need to be adjusted. It's easier to use extra mortar or adhesive to bring thinner tiles up to the level of thick tiles than the other way around. Lay thicker tiles first and adjust the thinner tiles as you go. When working with small tile or mosaics, smoothing out the mortar ridges can help ensure proper coverage. This is especially important in wet areas like bathrooms, where voids in the mortar can trap moisture. Wet areas should also be protected using a waterproof membrane beneath the mortar. Installing pebble tile? The irregular shape of the pebbles can result in visible "sheet lines" when installed with the mesh backing. To avoid this, tile pros often break up the sheets or install the pebbles one at a time. Clean up any excess mortar as you go. Use a damp sponge to wipe it up completely so it doesn't dry on the tiles. Tile adhesives are very strong, and if you try to chisel hardened mortar off the new floor, you risk chipping or breaking the tile. When using T-shaped tile spacers, make sure to stand them upright between joints and don't lay them flat at the tile intersections, or they'll be impossible to remove once the adhesive sets. A wet saw equipped with a diamond blade is the most versatile cutting tool for floor tile and will be available at most rental outlets. Grout Joints Grout joints should be sized based on the tile manufacturer’s recommendation. When using the correct grout for the application, a joint within the grout manufacturer’s recommended width tolerance should not lead to cracking. For the cleanest grout-joint appearance with less maintenance, many professionals recommend a joint as thin as 1/8 to 3/16 inch. Among the newest tools, the QEP LASH Tile Leveling Clips help installers level, align, space, and hold tile in place to maintain even elevation and ensure a consistent finish. The flat clips (part A of a two part system) grant even grout lines and align neighboring tile. The wedges (part B) insert through the flat clips to hold the tile at an even height. For quick and easy removal, clips are designed to break off below the surface of the tile. Note that when installing tile in a modular pattern (using tiles of multiple sizes), consult with your tile supplier regarding the size of the grout joints. Not all tiles are made to be installed in a modular pattern, and using tiles that are not designed for a modular pattern will have varying grout-joint widths. Grout should be applied after the mortar or adhesive has completely dried. The grout can be applied using a rubber float then allowed to cure overnight. On the next day, scrub the floor with a damp, abrasive sponge to remove grout residue from the floor. It’s a good idea to repeat the cleaning process for the next three days. If any grout haze remains, warm water will usually remove it, otherwise use a neutral, non-acidic tile cleaner or even a mildly alkaline detergent should work. (Note: Always follow the grout manufacturer’s recommendations for application and cleaning. Cleanup for an epoxy grout is very different from cement-based grout.) Allow the grout to cure for a week before sealing the grout joints. Grout is usually made of a cement material, making it porous and susceptible to stains, mold and mildew if not sealed with a quality grout sealant. Most ceramic tiles are glazed at the factory, but some types of tiles (natural stone, terra-cotta) may not be glazed and will require a protective sealer after installation. Regardless of the tile, you should always apply sealer to the grout to keep it from absorbing dirt and grime. For more information on tile specifications, installation and design, visit the Tile Council of North America’s website at www.TCNATile.com and WhyTile.com. SIDE NOTE 1: How to Cut Floor Tile A snap cutter is the easiest way to make a straight cut in tiles where they meet a wall or obstruction. Simply mark the cut line on the tile. Place the tile on the cutter’s base plate and adjust the guide bars to align the cut line with the carbide-tipped cutter. Lower the cutter onto the line and use the handle to draw the carbide wheel or blade across the tile to score the surface. Then press down on the handle to break the tile along the score line. One limitation of this tool is that it can only make cuts that extend across the entire tile, from one edge to the other. And although a tile pro might have the skills to use a snap cutter to make irregular cuts, an inexperienced user will probably be limited to making straight cuts with this tool. Need to make small partial cuts in tile? Although they look like a pair of pliers, tile nippers provide a simple way to make small, straight incremental cuts that can remove just enough material to clear obstructions. Another go-to tool is a powered wet saw, which is available to rent in a wide range of sizes. These tools use water to cool a circular diamond-grit blade to prolong its life when cutting such hard materials. Because it can make partial cuts in tile, a wet saw can cut out square notches. Although the circular blade of the wet saw enables only straight cutting, you can use the saw to make rounded or irregularly shaped cuts. When you need to fit a tile against a post or molding, simply scribe the profile of the obstacle on the tile. Then, make a series of closely spaced parallel straight cuts up to the profile line. Use tile nippers to remove the thin strips of tile between the kerfs. SIDE NOTE 2: A Sturdy Subfloor is Critical for Tile Any minor amount of deflection in the subfloor can result in cracks or damage to a tiled floor. A subfloor that still has a degree of “bounce” or vibration when people walk across the room might be suitable for resilient flooring, but it’s not suitable for tile installation. Pro remodeler Ritchie Hamilton addressed this problem at a house that had settled with sagging joists. Beneath the subfloor, Hamilton constructed a perpendicular beam with posts and piers to level the joists and stabilize the framing with additional support that connects to the ground. The beam serves two purposes. First, it bridges across the bottom of the joists so they can all be jacked up and leveled to the same height to reduce a sag in the floor. Second, by locating the beam midway through the span of the joists, the beam essentially halves the length of the unsupported framing, which takes the flex out of the flooring. He fastened the beam to the floor joists with metal hangers, arresting movement and giving strength and stability to the subfloor, which will ensure a long-lasting tile floor installation.

(guest post courtesy of Carlo Chatman) This is a tough time for keeping energy costs down. Everywhere, it seems, prices are on the rise. People everywhere are looking to trim costs wherever they can. It makes sense—and cents—to explore options that naturally reduce one of the biggest expenses most families have—home heating and cooling costs. The numbers are staggering. According to the Energy Information Administration, a division of the US Department of Energy. This winter, 2022-23, heating with natural gas will cost 28% more this winter adding $931 to the family nut, heating oil is going up 27% which translates to $2,354, propane has an increase of 5% leading to an extra $1,668 in costs and electricity charges, on average are going up 10% or more depending on the region adding about $1,359 in expenses to the deficit column. Unfortunately, the price forecasts predict continued increases along with the temperatures during the spring and summer when most places need air conditioning to keep cool. One obvious place to recoup some of those increased costs is through energy conservation. Heat loss mitigation is a good place to take action, and a home’s windows is one area where money and heat could actually be flowing out the window. Heated air finds its way outside through old, cracked, or even non-existent insulation surrounding windows. Single pane windows may not be thick enough or fitted well enough to keep the heat in. And even double paned windows may not do their job properly, resulting in precious heat escaping outside. Another culprit is the patio door, which is essentially a very large window. If it is not sealed properly, it can be the source of cold drafts in the winter and loss of cooled air in the summer. Remedying the problem can seem monumental. Replacing windows and patio doors is expensive, disruptive and not a prospect that anyone wants to get into in the winter. However, there is an alternative solution. A second set of windows and doors can be installed on the inside of the house. This second layer of protection can make a profound difference in keeping the heat inside during the winter and the heat outside during the summer. The second sliding patio door has even greater insulation value due to its greater surface area. “Having another layer of windows and patio doors makes a big difference,” says Randall Brown, president of Soundproof Windows, Inc, a national manufacturer of window soundproofing and energy-efficiency products headquartered in Reno, NV. “You are creating an additional physical barrier between the most porous part of the exterior of the house. This can reduce heat loss by 77% or more for single paned windows, and heating/cooling bills by up to 30% while stopping air infiltration for further energy savings and greater comfort.” This technique of adding a second window or patio door layer was created by looking at the methods sound studios used to produce soundproof spaces. Since soundproofing involves reducing air flow and meticulously sealing any place where sound can travel, it is an excellent way to also reduce drafts and heating or cooling loss. The way it works is that the second window and second patio sliding door are matched to the original ones. Each window can be installed in just a few hours and does not involve heavy construction so there’s very little clean up. The glass is laminated. It has an inner layer of polyvinyl, a product used to beef up car windshields. An air space pocket between 2 to 4 inches is kept between the inner and outer windows. This serves as an additional barrier to air leakage and provides significant noise reduction by eliminating sound vibrations. Spring-loaded seals on the new, second window frame keeps the panels in place and secure. The addition of the reinforced glass also acts as a robust security system, making it difficult for anyone to break into the house. “One of our customers contacted us specifically because of the second window sound-reduction capabilities since he lived in the downtown of a city with a busy night life,” says Brown. “He was very pleasantly surprised when he realized that his now quiet home was also much less costly to heat and cool. He went from using 550 gallons of healing oil in the winter before the second set of windows was installed, to using 300 gallons—that’s 250 gallons less during the winter after they were installed. He calculates that he saved almost $1,000 that winter. Not only is his home insulated from the shouts of rowdy nighttime crowds walking near his house, but he is insulated from the cold air outside.” Adding a second set of windows may be the easiest way to reduce energy costs while getting the added benefit of a quieter and more peaceful home. Editor's Note: For more information, contact Soundproof Windows, Inc. at 4673 Aircenter Circle, Reno, NV 89502; call 1-877-438-7843; email sales@soundproofwindows.com; or visit http://www.soundproofwindows.com

Home Improvement & Repairs magazine offers a few quick tips for DIY'ers who need to repair a clogged drain. Here are a few quick tips for DIY'ers who need to repair a clogged drain. Bathroom Drains Need to unclog a bathroom sink? To fight a sink clog, most folks start by using a simple cup-shaped bathroom plunger. Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the drain and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. Seal off any other outlets, such as the overflow drain in sinks, with a wet rag to create a vacuum, then fill the sink with enough water to cover the suction area. Push out any trapped air beneath the cup, then give the plunger 15 to 20 up-and-down pumping strokes to jolt loose the clog. You might have to repeat this three to five times to work. If that doesn’t unclog the problem, you can remove the drain cover which closes the drain. The drain cover operates using a ball-and-socket lever at the back of the sink’s drainpipe. To remove the drain cover, first place a bucket beneath the sink to catch water. Unscrew and remove the retaining nut that holds the “ball” of the lever to the socket on the rear of the drain pipe. This should allow you to slide the lever rod out of the keyhole on the bottom of the drain cover. You should then be able to pull the drain cover freely out of the sink drain, which is often what traps hair, objects and other debris in the drain. Use a plumbing auger (or a wire coat hanger) and hot water to clear out the drain pipe and thoroughly wash the drain cover before replacement. If that still doesn’t work, you can use a pipe wrench to remove the P-trap beneath the sink, in which a foreign object may have gotten trapped in the turn of the pipe. You can also run a plumbing auger or plumbing snake into the drain pipe past the P-trap to rout out clogs farther down the line. First step in clearing a drain with an auger is to remove the drain cap. This inexpensive plastic plumbing auger is one of the best $3 or $4 purchases a DIY homeowner is apt to make. Available at most hardware stores, the augers are hooked to grab hair and gunk, stiff enough to shove through a pipe, but flexible enough to follow the turns in a P-trap or S-trap. Run the auger repeatedly down the pipe along all sides, and rotate the tool as you do. These things often get the job done. Tubs To unclog a bathtub, the same basic steps apply as when unclogging sinks. However, depending on the type of bathtub you have, a trip-lever tub stopper might be connected to the overflow plate. If so, remove the screws from the overflow plate and pull it out to access the drain. With the stopper out, scoop out any visible hair or soap scum from the drain. A plastic auger or straightened coat hanger can make a good tool to hook and remove obstructions. If the clog remains, seal the overflow with a towel or rag, then plunge the drain with a cup-style plunger. If there is still no change, move on to a plumbing snake. A plumbing snake is basically a flexible steel cable that worms its way through the drainpipe and forces its way through clogs. In the case of a tub, inserting the plumbing snake into the overflow opening provides a better angle to the trap beneath the drain. You should snake both the overflow and the drain opening to make sure all pipes are clear. Push the snake into the pipe until you hit the obstruction, then try to hook the clog by twisting the snake’s handle. When the clog is hooked, push the snake back and forth until the obstruction breaks up. Then flush the pipe with water. Plumbing snakes are available in different sizes, but the thinner augers are best for bending around corners. Kitchen Sinks Due to the nature of a kitchen, snaking out a kitchen sink might not be necessary. Kitchen sinks are less susceptible to hair clogs and more susceptible to built-up fat and grease from food. For this reason, you might want to pour boiling water into a clogged kitchen drain to see if that melts the problem away. Kitchen sinks are generally built like bathroom sinks and have a P-trap, but they may also be connected to a dishwasher's drain line or to a garbage disposal. A plumbing snake doesn’t work well in tight turns, so it might help to remove the P-trap and insert the snake directly into drainpipe. Snake the pipe until you hit the obstruction and break it up, then flush the pipe with water. If this doesn’t fix or locate the problem, then check the other household drains to make sure the clog is only in one fixture. (If more than one drain is clogged, then there is a clog in the main drainpipe.) Liquid Clog Removers Frequent use of chemical cleaners can damage your plumbing, but they can be helpful opening the occasional plugged pipe. If water is slowly draining, but the pipe is not completely clogged, then a liquid cleaner may solve the issue. Be wary, however, of the thin liquid drain cleaners. You risk pouring the watery cleaner down a sluggish drain only to hear the product rush straight past the clog, leaving the problem stuck in the drain. That's a big waste of money. Choose a thicker foam or gel product rather than the cheapest, thin liquid plumbing agents. The thicker products stick to the inside of the pipe and give the chemicals better coverage and longer contact with the blockage. Allow the product to sit as directed, usually about 30 minutes, and follow with running water to test the drain. Be aware of red flags when it comes to chemical cleaners. The active ingredient is often chlorine bleach, which is bad news for septic tanks, because bleach can kill the beneficial bacteria of a septic system. These products are best suited for systems connected to a sewer system. Furthermore, liquid clog removers aren’t intended for all household clogs. They are not designed to remove the waste that may be clogging your toilet. Also, laundry drain clogs are often due to accumulated clothing fibers, and liquid drainers don’t dissolve these fibers. The general rule of chemical cleaners: Read the instructions on the label and only use it as intended. Always use in a well-ventilated area and wear rubber gloves. Don’t use a plunger if a liquid cleaner is in the drain, or you risk splashing caustic chemicals on your skin. And don’t pour in a liquid cleaner if the drain is completely blocked, because if it doesn't work, you'll be stuck with a sink full of caustic water. Septic Tank Tip: Although chemical cleaners can harm septic tanks, treating a clog with vinegar and baking soda will not. First, pour hot (but not boiling) water into the drain to loosen the clog. Add 1/2 cup of baking soda into the open drain. Then, pour 1⁄2 cup of white distilled vinegar down the drain. You will hear the mixture fizzle as it begins to foam. Allow the mixture to act on the clog for 15 minutes to an hour, then try to rinse the obstruction away with hot water. A solid clog, such as hair buildup, will need to be broken up manually. Toilet Clogs Toilet clogs can often be handled with a plunger, but you've got to use the right plunger. Plungers have different shapes to conform to different surfaces, i.e. the flat bottom of a sink or the funnel-shaped drain of a toilet. You'll find it difficult to create a plunging seal if you use the wrong shape. If plunging doesn't work, you might try using a closet auger, which is a tool similar to a plumbing snake, but the end of the auger is bent to fit through the tight curves of a toilet trap. A closet auger operates using a hand crank to rotate a cable encased in a rigid shaft. Major Clogs If more than one fixture is clogged, then you may need to clean out the main drain line. To do this, locate the clean-out plugs on the large drainpipes in your basement or crawlspace. These drain lines may be found in a garage or outdoors, along the foundations of the house. Each plug has a cap with a square fitting at the top. Remove the cap with a wrench. Be ready with a bucket to catch dripping water. Also, make absolutely sure no one is going to be using the facilities while you have the main drain line open. Use a plumbing snake or auger to break up any clogs in the open main line, running it in both directions of the pipe. Professional Plumbers When all else fails, you can always resort to the Yellow Pages (or a reliable search engine). Hire a qualified, full-time professional and not just a “handyman” that does the work on the side. This especially applies to bigger jobs, but even the smallest job can become expensive if not handled correctly. When choosing a plumber, request an estimate and talk to them about the overall cost of the job, even if it seems like it's going to be a small project. Also, check for a license, ask for a timeframe and professional references, and confirm their insurance credentials. SIDE NOTE 1: "Hey, boss ... This job STINKS!” I rented a plumbing snake to clear out the main sewer line of a relative’s house. Tree roots had encroached into the drain line and clogged it. This resulted in smelly, dirty water backing up toward the house. To grind through the roots, I recommend the larger 5/8” auger size rather than a 1/2” or smaller, which is more likely to break against the roots. Plumbing snakes have a coil of steel rope with a cutter-head on the end to drill out the blockage. You feed the rope into the drain (through the clean-out plug, in our case) until it hits resistance, and then use the machine's foot pedal to spin the auger. I fed the auger into the pipe several times, ground through some blockage, then pulled out the auger to measure its length and mark our progress. After repeating this procedure several times, we finally broke through the clog so the water could drain. Note that if you attempt to use the machine, always wear gloves and be careful of the metal auger, which can crush your fingers if they get caught in the rope. - M. Weber SIDE NOTE 2: Pressure-Blast Plumbing Tools If you don’t have a plumbing snake, or you want to avoid removing the P-traps, you might try a clog-removal tool that utilizes water-pressure or compressed air. A common tool is a plumber's blow bag (AKA a drain flush bag, plumbing bladder, or pipe bladder). This is a heavy-duty rubber balloon that is attached to a garden hose to clear drain clogs using water pressure. The bladder is like an uninflated balloon, which expands to seal the drain opening and forces pressurized water into the pipe to power through the clog. Hardware and home stores now sell products that shoot compressed air into a drain to force the clog to move. Some compressed-air products are sold in disposable cans, which often work quite well. However, if the air-burst doesn’t work and requires repeat treatments, the compressed air cans can get expensive. Other tools use a pump design to generate up to 150 lbs. of pressure. Another type of compressed-air product is a reusable device that uses cartridges of compressed CO2. Once the tool is loaded with a CO2 cartridge, just press down firmly on the handle, and a needle punctures the cartridge, sending a powerful burst of air into the drain, instantly unclogging it. The advantage is that you can keep the tool for future clogs, and all you have to replace are the individual cartridges. #clog_removal #diy_plumbing #howtoremoveclog #toilet_clog #cloggedsink #clogged_sink #clogged_toilet #cloggedtoilet #clog_solution #clogremover #clog_remover

The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) named the winners in its 10th annual Best of IBS™ Awards during the NAHB International Builders’ Show® (IBS) in Las Vegas. The awards were presented during a ceremony on the final day of the show. This year’s Best of IBS Awards received more than 400 entries. Decided by a panel of 26 independent judges made up of industry and media representatives, the awards were given in nine categories, plus the overall Best in Show winner. Awards were given to exhibitors with a product or line that shows the best combination of design, functionality and innovation, as well as its usefulness to consumers and/or home builders. The winners are: • Best in Show: Door Stud by Door Stud LLC. The Door Stud cuts typical installation labor time in half. It has a steel constructed design with a single action clamp and soft-grip handles. This durable tool simplifies the install of 1-3/4-in. and 2-3/4- in. pre-hung or slab doors. With the Door Stud, the installer handles a door once. The Door Stud is vertically adjustable; holding the door upright and leveling the door in three directions for preparation of installation. It enables the installer to conduct a single-person, hands-free installation by mobilizing the door and preventing it from resting against the interior walls of the home. • Best Energy Efficient Product: SPAN Drive by SPAN. Marketed as a smarter, faster charging solution, the SPAN Drive is a high-powered Level 2 electric vehicle charger, delivering 11.4 kW, or up to 41 miles of range per hour of charging. • Best Home Software Product: BILT by BILT Inc. BILT is a 3D app that is free to use. Thousands of official ad-free instructions with 3D interactivity are paid for by the brands. There are also tool tutorials and DIY projects so simple even a novice can be successful. The app also does highly complex training for the US military. Download the mobile app on iOS or Android. • Best Home Technology Product: GE Profile UltraFast Combo with Ventless Heat Pump Technology. Combining the power of clean and dry for an ultimate one-and-done solution, the new product eliminates the laundry day hassle of waiting around to transfer a load. The UltraFast Combo combines two jobs into one, allowing owners to do their laundry from start to finish when they are away from home or enjoying other activities. Instead of letting laundry linger between cycles, the washer automatically cycles to dry, taking the load off the owner and reducing time spent in the laundry room. • Best Indoor Product: Overture Automated Indoor Air Quality System by Broan-NuTone. The first fully-automated fresh air system uses sophisticated sensor technology to monitor your home's indoor air quality. • Best Kitchen & Bath Product: BlueStar Dual Fuel Range by BlueStar. BlueStar’s first-ever dual fuel range features a fresh take on our 8-point star shaped burners plus precision electric oven for the best of both worlds. The new X8 burner delivers full-spectrum power, performance, and versatility from every burner on the cooktop. • Best Outdoor Product: HydAway Hydraulic Walls by HydAway Hydraulic Walls. These unique, patented HydAway doors and walls are built with their hydraulic systems fully concealed when closed for the cleanest profile of any door or window on the market. • Most Innovative Building Materials: Elevation Cable Rail by Barrette Outdoor Living. The system installs 38% faster than the competition and features the patent-pending OneTen™ built-in centralized tensioning control system. No special tools or fasteners needed. Available in pre-assembled kits with pre-installed brackets and pre-strung stainless-steel cables. It features a modern, industrial design with continuous top rail for both level and stair applications. • Most Innovative Construction Tool: Mobile Carpenter Workshop Trailer by On-Site Building Solutions LLC. The CT1 Carpenter Workshop Trailer is fully self-contained, with two power sources and can be housed in a residential garage or fits easily in a parking space. It features a state-of-the-art vacuum system with onboard dust collection. No more airborne particles for a safer work environment. “As a builder and consumer, I was very impressed to see all the wonderful products that our industry produces,” said Kim Chambers with Charter Constructions Inc. and Best of IBS Awards judge. “The greatest thing about the Best of IBS Awards is the wide range of products representing all aspects of the home building industry,” said Dusty Johnson with Liberty Homes Inc. and Best of IBS Awards judge. “As a judge, it could not be more exciting to see the new and innovative products brought forth at this year’s show,” said Dan Mitchell with Eagle CDI and Best of IBS Awards judge. The panel of judges noted that the Best in Show winner, Door Stud by Door Stud LLC., integrates seamlessly with all door applications, interior or exterior doors, commercial or multifamily properties and national or international construction. The simplicity, cost, durability and ease of use of the product also impressed the judges. For more information on the Best of IBS Awards, visit http://www.buildersshow.com/bestofibs.

(guest post by Valerie Smith) The transition between autumn and winter often has harsh effects on home turfgrass. Although the ground beneath may still be warm, the air is slowly getting colder and crisper. This combination of soil and air temperatures often creates strange results in lawns, including the appearance of unusual stripe patterns. While there are many ways to describe these squiggly lines, the most common names for the stripes in your lawn are tiger stripes and Jack Frost trails. These unique patterns are caused by unsynchronized dormancy, a term that refers to grass going dormant at different stages. As disturbing as their appearance may be, there is no reason for homeowners to be alarmed by them. What do Jack Frost trails look like? When you first encounter these stripes on turfgrass, you may instantly assume that your lawn is infested with disease or pests. Although its symptoms may appear similar, there are actually several significant differences between Jack Frost trails and lawn disease. While lawn diseases start in small patches and slowly expand, Jack Frost trails typically cover entire lawns. Their zebra-looking patterns are also very unique, as most fungal diseases create circles of brown grass rather than lines. Not only are Jack Frost trails much different than lawn diseases, but they also produce different symptoms than pest infestations. Generally, insects and even small rodents will create a path extending from one spot in your lawn. Jack Frost trails, on the other hand, create patterns scattered throughout your entire lawn instead of just one straight trail. What causes Jack Frost trails in lawns? As mysterious as Jack Frost Trails may be, there is a quite simple reason for its appearance. As previously mentioned, these unique patterns are caused by unsynchronized dormancy, a term that refers to grass going dormant at different stages. Many factors play into unsynchronized dormancy, including cold air temperatures, warm soil conditions, moisture in the air and the density/height of the grass. When combined, these conditions result in frost damage to the grass. Because every lawn may not go dormant at the exact same time, you may notice Jack Frost trails only on your yard but not your neighbor’s lawn. In fact, you may only notice Jack Frost Trails in certain sections of your yard, while other areas remain unaffected. This is completely normal since the conditions have to be just right for these grass stripes to appear. When the aforementioned factors are combined with thermal currents, certain sections of the lawn will turn brown while other sections survive the frost and maintain their color. What types of grass do Jack Frost trails affect? Tiger stripes mainly affect warm season lawns, since these grasses aren’t as adaptable to the colder weather. Zoysia and bermuda grass are the most common grass types to experience Jack Frost Trails. Of course, not all warm season grasses may develop stripes since the conditions must be favorable for Jack Frost Trails to take place. What occurs one year may never happen again in the same location, since it depends on the climate and how early the first frost is. Should I worry about Jack Frost trails in my lawn? Even if your lawn experiences frost damage, the roots will continue to grow and heal the affected grass blades. Once the conditions of winter remain consistent, your entire lawn will enter dormancy. In short, there is no reason to worry about grass stripes on your winter lawn. These unique patterns that cover your yard are simply the result of the cold temperatures that take place as the seasons change. Want to learn more about achieving a great lawn? Check out more Sod University tips here and subscribe to the weekly newsletter. Editor's Note: This article was written by Sod Solutions Content Strategist, Valerie Smith. To view this article on Sod Solutions website click here.