Rob Pongonis, YellaWood brand manager, offers his expert advice on best practices when working with treated lumber. Backyard building is big business. For years, this trend in home-improvement has been on the rise, and now that people are spending more time at home than ever, the trend is exploding. Decks, docks, pergolas, patios, outdoor kitchens and exterior furniture--these are the things than transform a backyard into an enjoyable living space. One of the most fundamental building materials for outdoor construction remains pressure-treated wood, which has undergone a process that uses high pressure to force a solution of water and preservatives deep into the lumber to extend its lifespan. The active ingredients commonly used in treated wood are alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), copper azole (CA) or micronized copper azole (MCA), which react with the wood fibers to slow decay and resist termites, fungus, moisture and other harmful elements. This process enables treated fence posts, for example, to withstand years of being buried in soil. Treated wood is a renewable and affordable and usually readily available, although the high demand of recent months might leave your supplier waiting on the next shipment from the mill. According to a July 9, 2020 article from the Wall Street Journal, "Prices for forest products like lumber and plywood have soared because of booming demand from home builders making up for lost time, a DIY explosion sparked by stay-at-home orders, and a race among restaurants and bars to install outdoor seating areas.” Demand continues to rise because even when prices are up, treated wood remains one of the most economical outdoor building materials available. One of the leading manufacturers of treated lumber, Great Southern Wood Preserving--the makers of YellaWood brand treated products--is now celebrating its 50th anniversary in business. To get some expert advice on best practices when working with treated lumber, HIR turned to YellaWood brand manager Rob Pongonis to clear up a few questions. Whether you're a pro builder or a homeowner, here's some "insider" insight on what to consider when planning your next project. What should builders and homeowners understand about selecting different grades of treated lumber for a project? Pongonis: As a contractor, when you’re meeting with a homeowner to discuss a deck project, it’s important to listen and to ask as many questions as possible to ensure you understand exactly what they’re looking for from their investment. Most homeowners have a vision for their project that includes functionality and color but they often don’t fully consider the appearance of the deck boards. That’s why talking about grades, especially knots and other beauty factors, early in the process is so important. And many homeowners may not realize they have options when it comes to the appearance of deck boards. While many building supply stores stock a couple of grades, there are more options available through special orders that may better meet the homeowner’s expectations. Using a “Good, Better, Best” approach clarifies the options in an easy to follow way. When talking about deck boards, it is important to remember 5/4 decking is a popular choice and commonly available in two grades: Standard and Premium. 5/4 Standard decking would fit into your “Good” category and will have some large, sound knots and some bark edges. 5/4 Premium decking is a step up and would fall in your “Better” category. These products will have less bark and smaller, more well-spaced knots that appear less frequently than what appears on Standard grade. What is the latest advice on building applications that require ground-contact lumber? In 2016, the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) wanted to address growing concerns around the incorrect usage of treated wood. They released a revised standard which governed the use of Ground Contact treated lumber. This revision required Ground Contact products to be used in some applications where Above Ground products had previously been approved. Today, the AWPA recommends using Ground Contact treated products in any applications that are difficult to maintain, repair or replace and critical to the performance and safety of the structure. This includes applications such as joists, beams and ledger boards. In addition, they require Ground Contact treated deck boards when placed closer than 6 inches to the ground, have poor air circulation or poor water drainage, or are exposed to frequent wetting like freshwater docks, sprinkler systems, or swimming pools and other such hazards. The good news is most building supply retailers helped take the guesswork out of this by stocking only Ground Contact treated lumber. However, it’s always a good idea to check the end tag to make sure it clearly states “End Use: Ground Contact” before beginning construction. Is it necessary to use peel-and-stick flashing when treated wood is used in contact with aluminum products? YellaWood brand products are treated with a micronized copper preservative which exhibits corrosion rates on metal products similar to other non-corrosive treatments and untreated wood. Aluminum building products may be placed in direct contact with YellaWood brand products without the need of additional flashing as long as there is proper water drainage and the wood isn’t exposed to, or remain in contact with, a continual moisture source, standing water or water immersion. Editor's note: Not all wood is treated the same, and some different copper-based preservatives used by other brands have been reported to cause corrosion when placed in direct contact with aluminum products, such as ledger-board flashing. This has prompted builders to isolate the aluminum from direct contact with the framing lumber by using a peel-and-stick membrane. Check with the lumber manufacturer for the latest guidelines on your specific product. What type of fasteners (type and materials) do you recommend for outdoor construction? When selecting fasteners and hardware, it is important to make sure you are in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and building codes. In exterior applications, fasteners should be either be Hot-Dip Galvanized (ASTM-A153), Epoxy Coated Carbon Steel (Zinc Plated, AC-257) or Stainless Steel (304, 305 or 316). YellaWood Outdoor Fasteners are star-drive fasteners available in a tan epoxy-coated carbon steel or stainless steel options. They are available in deck screws and trim screws in a variety of lengths. Explain the best procedure for preserving the treated lumber when it has been cut on the job site. Sealing field cuts is a great idea to provide extra protection to your project. Preservative products can typically be found on the paint aisle at most home centers. Suggestions can include a copper naphthenate (2% as metal). How deeply does the preservative treatment penetrate into a lumber product? Are thicker boards such as 4x4 or 6x6 any more susceptible than 2x lumber to rot or water damage by virtue of having more mass (and presumably less chemical absorption at their core)? There are certainly factors that play into how well the wood takes the treatment like the presence of heartwood and the moisture content, but the treatment process is designed to drive the preservative deep into the cellular structure regardless of thickness. Following treatment each charge goes through a rigorous quality control test. Core samples are drilled and tested to see both how deep the preservative went and how much of the preservative was retained in the wood. What’s more, we also have a contract with a third-party testing service that regularly inspects our products for quality (a service not all treaters subscribe to). And of course, we offer and proudly stand behind our warranty. What advice do you have for applying stain/sealers to an outdoor wood project? “When do I stain my deck?” is probably the top question we get from homeowners. The answer is simple: As soon as possible. In application, however, it’s a lot harder to predict. The wood has to be dry enough to accept the stain which can be impacted by factors like local weather patterns. The best way to tell if your boards are ready to be stained is to splash a few drops of water on them. If it beads up, wait several days to test again. If the water absorbs into the wood, you’re good to go. When it comes to application, we recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions and testing the stain on a small area to make sure you’re happy with the color before expanding to the full area. Anything else you’d like to add? Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc. recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and announced a partnership with NASCAR in which the YellaWood brand sponsors the fall NASCAR Cup Series playoff race held at historic Talladega Superspeedway. Tickets for the 2022 YellaWood 500 are available via an early access pre-sale. All photos appear courtesy Great Southern Wood Preserving, Inc.

An air-powered framing nailer will be your best friend when building a wooden fence. They say good fences make good neighbors. Here are a few tips for fence construction that we’ve learned over the years. Planning Plan your fence by sketching a rough design on paper, listing its length, height, style, number of posts and stringers. To determine the amount pickets you’ll need for the fence, first calculate how many pickets you’ll need for one panel section between two posts (based on picket width and desired pattern), then multiply that figure by the total number of panel sections. For a 6-ft. tall wooden privacy fence, the support posts can be made from 8-ft. treated 4×4s. The posts should be approved for ground contact. The horizontal stringers (also called fence rails) can be made from 8-ft. 2×4 treated boards. Treated lumber is the most common and budget-friendly choice for fencing. Layout First, pinpoint the location of each corner post. Drive stakes into the corner-post locations and run a taut string between the stakes. Walk the fence line with your tape measure and spray-paint an “X” to mark each post. Fence posts are usually 6 to 8 feet on center. The closer the fence posts, the stronger the fence. Be careful not to space the posts any wider than the length of your stringer boards. When laying out the fence, keep in mind the ends of the stringers can be toe-nailed or fastened with hardware between two posts, or the stringers can be face-nailed to the outside of the posts, with the stringer-ends butting together in the middle. A drain spade and a post-hole digger are two tools that prove useful during fence construction. A post level features separate plumb vials that measure two adjacent faces of a post at once. Post Holes When digging post holes down here in Alabama, a good rule of thumb is to dig a 1/3 the depth of the overall post height. A 6-ft. tall post requires a 2-ft. hole and an 8-ft. 4×4, since you’ll be burying the bottom 2 feet of the post. Plus, you should add about 4 inches to that digging depth, so you can add a bed of drainage gravel before setting the posts. The holes we dig usually measure 12-18 inches wide. Note that colder climates might require deeper post holes to avoid frost heave. Check your local building-code guidelines regarding recommended post-hole depth. Before digging, it’s also a good idea to call “811” nationally to get any underground utility lines, cables and pipes marked for free. Align the fence posts between the corner posts using a taut string as a guide. The white board is a story pole, which is a scrap board that I marked with black tape. The tape indicates the locations of each stringer height. I place the story pole against each fence post and mark the stringer placement for later. Posts Set the corner posts first. Make sure the square face of the posts align with the fence path. I recommend plumbing the posts using a post level, which features level vials that measure two adjacent faces of a post at the same time. You can use ready-mix concrete sold in bags to set the posts. Once you have the corner posts held in plumb position (using braces or an assistant), pour the mix into the hole dry, straight from the bag. Once the post base is covered, pour water over the dry mix according to the amount recommended on the package. For sturdy fence posts, we recommend using about 75 lbs. pounds of dry concrete per post. You can pour the ready-mix concrete around the post base while it’s still dry, then add water. Run a taut string between the corner posts as a guide to mark and position the remaining fence posts. Keep the string on the outside face of the posts and secure it tightly. Set the remaining posts in the same manner, making sure their outside faces are plumb and lined up exactly with the string to keep the fence straight. Allow all the posts to set for 24 hours. Once the concrete has hardened, cover it with dirt and use a hand tamper to compact the ground around the bottom, sloping the soil away from the post. Stringers On this fence we opted to face-nail the stringers over the posts. For a standard 6-ft. tall fence, we usually position the bottom stringer 10 inches up from the ground. (You might need to alter placement, depending on the height of your fence.) Space the other two stringer rails evenly apart. The spacing between posts usually varies, so each stringer should be measured and cut to length individually to fit the panel sections. Keep a circular saw and sawhorses handy to cut the stringers. Pickets A pneumatic framing nailer will greatly speed up fence installation. Fasten all connections using hot-dipped galvanized nails (3- to 3-1/2 inches long) with ringed shanks for extra holding power. Make sure your fasteners are approved for exterior use in chemically treated lumber. We used the edge of a board as a spacing block. I usually build with three stringers per panel section to prevent the fence boards from bowing, but since this fence had two layers of pickets nailed together, the homeowner decided to stick with two stringers. If you plan to conceal your posts behind the fence boards, use a reciprocating saw to chop off all the post tops at the same height prior to installing the fence boards. If you plan to leave the posts exposed above the fence pickets, you can cut them later. Attach the fence boards or pickets securely against the stringers. Your choice of fence style will determine the picket spacing. On the “double picket” fence shown in the photos, we used the edge of a fence board to keep the gaps consistent. Place the first picket along the corner post and drive one nail through the board at the top. Use the nail to pivot the board you use a 4-ft. level to find plumb. Once in position, finish nailing the board in place, using at least two nails per stringer location. Place the spacer block next to the first picket and position the second picket against it. Nail the second picket using the same pattern at each stringer location. Repeat for all pickets. The two picket layers were face-nailed together, with the joints staggered between layers. To make sure the fence boards line up consistently, you can level the ground between each pair of posts and lay a temporary 2×4 flat along the ground. By sitting the pickets on the 2×4, the board tops install in a straight line, and the gap beneath them (once the 2×4 is removed) keeps the board ends off the ground to reduce moisture damage and rot. On the fence shown, we covered the first layer of fence pickets with a second layer, using the same spacing pattern but staggering the joints. The second layer adds strength and rigidity to the fence. Each post top was cut level in preparation for a post cap. Post caps protect the posts from rain and moisture soaking into the wood’s end-grain and causing rot. Protect your new fence with a waterproof stain/sealer, which also provides the opportunity to apply your color tone of choice. We cut the posts in preparation for post caps. Here is the fence as the neighbors will see it. Post caps protect the posts from rain and moisture soaking into the wood’s end-grain and causing rot. Photo © DeckoRail #construction #doityourself #quikrete #builder #fence #privacy #homeimprovement #socialdistancing #DIY #treatedlumber #zar

Remodeling projects often require cutting the bottom of an interior door. Installation of new floor covering often raises the height of the floor, causing the door bottom to bind against it and preventing proper operation. To solve the problem, remove the door from its hinges and cut the bottom shorter–but keep in mind, there’s a right way and wrong way to do this. How Much Clearance Floor is Required? For basic function of the door to swing open and closed, its bottom should clear all obstructions (floor registers, etc.) by at least 1/8 inch. Now, depending on the circumstances of the room in question, you might want more clearance to allow better return airflow throughout the house. For example, we recently trimmed the door of a kitchen pantry which had no air-conditioning duct, so we kept the floor clearance to 1/8 inch because the homeowner preferred the look of a smaller gap, and the door had no issue with airflow. However, a bedroom with HVAC registers is usually separated from the air return by the door, in which case a very tight gap beneath the door may restrict the system’s airflow. A common symptom of this is a door that resists opening or that slams shut when the HVAC system activates, due to an air-pressure imbalance. In this case, a 5/8-in. gap beneath the bedroom door is considered standard. For floors with high-pile carpets, a larger gap might be necessary, and for venting the humid air of bathrooms, some pro remodelers recommend as much as 7/8-in. door-to-floor clearance. How to Shorten a Door Use a strip of plywood, cardboard or a ruler as a gauge to mark the cut height. Place the gauge along the painter’s tape and use it to mark a line along the width of the door. Remove the hinge pins (always starting at the bottom and working upward), then remove the door, place on sawhorses and clamp it securely. It’s smart to first blanket the sawhorses to protect the door finish. Apply extra tape along the door bottom to protect the door finish from the saw base. Use a square to mark the cut-line completely around all sides of the door. Use a sharp utility knife and straight edge to repeatedly score the cut-line around all edges of the door. This is an important step because it prevents the wood veneer from chipping out when the saw teeth exit the door. Equip a circular saw with a thin-kerf blade. For the straight cut, align a saw guide* along the razor-scored cut-line, with the blade kerf aligned with the waste side of the cut. Set the saw’s cutting depth so only the tip of three teeth extend beyond the thickness of the door. Carefully make the cut while holding onto the waste piece so it doesn’t fall away and chip out the wood as you complete the cut. If necessary, touch up the cut with sandpaper–but if you follow these steps carefully, you’ll probably find no sanding necessary. Re-hang the door, and the job is done. Side Note 1: Make a Saw Guide If you don’t have a saw guide like the one shown in the photos, you can custom-make one to fit your saw, as I demonstrated at Extreme How-To several years ago. Side Note 2: Matt’s Video on How to Shorten a Door I made this video for ‘Extreme How-To’ a few years ago. Enjoy! #doityourself #interiordoor #homeimprovement #floorclearance #DIY #remodeling #shortenadoor

Anyone who works on home remodeling projects will spend a lot of time with a caulk gun. Caulks are used to seal joints for a decorative finish, to seal joints to prevent water and air intrusion, or for both purposes. Whether you’re sealing joints in crown molding or weather-proofing window exteriors, choosing the right caulk/sealant product should be your first move. Choices, Choices Silicone sealants have long been the staple for exterior projects where a waterproof seal is necessary. This stuff is used around doors, windows, and any number of areas around the house to prevent air and water intrusion. Silicone-based sealants also work well for use in the kitchen and bath. These products can be purchased with antimicrobial additives to fight mold and mildew, and can be easily removed and replaced when the bead gets grimy. However, standard silicone cannot be painted and is incredibly messy and sticky to use. Newer formulations of silicone-based sealants can be painted—but only if indicated on the packaging—so pay close attention when buying. Acrylic caulk represents the other end of the spectrum. Unlike silicone, acrylic is only appropriate for interior projects and is not waterproof, nor is it very flexible and may crack over time. This is the stuff that has been used for years to fill gaps and cracks in molding and trim to give it a finished, cohesive appearance. Acrylic caulk is much easier to tool and clean up than silicone, and can easily be painted. Standard acrylic caulk is a strictly cosmetic product, however, and not intended to serve as a sealant (but acrylic is also the least expensive option). These days, many hybrid caulk/sealants stock the shelves of the hardware store. These products come in formulations containing some of the attributes of both silicone and acrylic, meaning they can be cleaned or tooled more easily than standard silicone, remain more flexible than acrylic, can be painted after application, and still retain a waterproof seal. Pro-grade polyurethane-based sealants present another option for exterior siding, windows and doors, because they stay flexible and don’t shrink, have better adhesion than silicone—plus, they’re paintable. Water-based and solvent-based caulk/sealants further complicate the wide selection, offering similar hybrid properties, and many serve double-duty as adhesives. With such a multitude of formulations, product selection can be confusing. The easiest way to make sense of all the options is to pay close attention to the indications on the packaging. Make sure the caulk/sealant tube is clearly marked for the task at hand and intended for interior or exterior application. Whether the product is elastomeric, flexible, waterproof, paintable, cleans up with water, or contains a mildewcide additive, all features should be listed prominently on the label. Application Cut the tip of a caulk tube at a straight 90-degree angle and keep the hole small. You can always re-cut to make the hole bigger, but you don’t want to sacrifice control of the bead. Many caulks/sealants also have an interior seal inside the nozzle that should be punctured several times with a stiff wire or thin rod. Before applying any caulk or sealant, clean the surface of the work area thoroughly to prevent dirt and debris from disrupting application of the bead. A dirty surface will also prevent adhesion of the caulk. When laying the bead, keep the gun positioned at a 90-degree angle to the wall to strike a balance between pushing and pulling for consistent application. This position also provides easy visibility on both sides of the nozzle. Rest the nozzle tip evenly on both sides of the joint. Move the caulk gun at a steady rate. Keep the bead width as steady as possible and leave no gaps. If you cross any vertical joints, take the time to caulk a few inches up or down the joints, which will make it easier to connect the caulk beads later. Complete the task by tooling the bead. Hardware stores sell caulking tools of various profiles and sizes to strike off excess caulk and give shape to the bead. You can also make your own tools to shape concave beads by using wood dowels of various sizes, or simply slap on a rubber glove and use your finger. Plastic grocery bags make fine receptacles for the excess caulk. How to Seal Big Joints To seal a joint larger than 1/4-in. wide, use a foam backer rod as a filler before applying the caulk. Simply press the flexible backer rod (a.k.a. filler rope) firmly into the joint or crack and apply caulk on top of it. The inexpensive backer rod provides a cheaper way to fill the empty space than using caulk alone. Plus, when caulk is tooled over a backer rod, it forms an “hourglass” shape with large surface areas of adhesion at the sides of the joint. The hourglass shape of the caulk bead withstands joint movement better than any other configuration. DuraMaster Elastomeric Caulk/Sealant The new DuraMaster formula from Titebond offers 100-percent joint-movement capability, so it will flex and stretch and won’t crack or detach from the surrounding building materials. Movement occurs with expansion and contraction of building materials due to temperature changes, settling, wind and seismic events, and this movement is why brittle caulks can crack or fail over time. Typical elastomeric sealants can handle movement of 25 percent of the original joint size and are rated Class 25 (the minimum rating for handling a moderate amount of movement). DuraMaster, however, has earned the highest ASTM C-920 rating for sealant performance, Class 100/50, which means it can handle movement of 100 percent expansion and 50 percent contraction. The Class 100 rating is a testament to the sealant’s durability, because according to Titebond, the new formula tested four times more durable than other water-based sealants. Plus, it will span even large gaps, up to two inches wide. The DuraMaster sealant can be used for interiors or exteriors. Its water-based formulation is good news for anyone who can’t stand dealing with the sticky, goopy, difficult-to-tool, and nearly impossible-to-clean mess of silicone-based products. The new formula is simple to tool and cleans up easily with water (until the sealant dries). And unlike standard silicone, DuraMaster is a paintable caulk and is sold in 13 colors. As far as sealants go, our staff gives DuraMaster a big thumbs up, and now that it’s widely available, you can try it yourself. Learn more at www.titebond.com. #duramaster #caulk #sealant #caulking #howto #application #doityourself #homeimprovement #construction #contractor #builder #remodel

A table saw often serves as the “flagship” tool of professional carpenters as well as the home workshop. It can be used for crosscutting, miter cutting, bevel cutting, compound miter cutting, ripping, bevel ripping, rabbeting and resawing. Since the user guides the stock into the blade, rather than the blade into the stock, a table saw offers superior control and accuracy for a wide range of cutting applications. New users can check out these six handy table-saw tips to cut with more safety and confidence than ever. Note that in the article shown, the blade guard is sometimes removed for the sake of photo clarity, but HIR recommends that users at home always operate a table saw using its blade guard. COUNT ON YOUR SUPPORT When ripping long pieces of material on a table saw, the workpiece should be always be supported from beneath after it passes the blade. Furniture and cabinet makers typically use a stationary outfeed table for work support, but DIY'ers can rely on a foldaway roller stand to conserve space. A roller stand keeps the work-piece traveling forward smoothly and prevents it from falling off the rear of the table, which can result in blade tear-out and impact damage. The height of the adjustable roller should be set at the same level or just below the surface of the table. We purchased the fold-up model shown from Harbor Freight for less than $20. To cut sheet goods, arrange a couple of sawhorses as a makeshift outfeed table. MARK THE KERF The circular blade of a table saw doesn't cut like scissors but rather removes a line of material, and this line is called the "kerf" which refers to the thickness of the saw teeth. The kerf can measure up to 1/8 inch and should be taken into account when taking accurate measurements. To make a sight guide for the kerf, position a straight edge flush alongside the saw blade, then use a fine-point pencil to mark both sides of the blade kerf on your saw table. Some manufacturers provide a small window to mark the kerf, but I recommend drawing the lines from the blade all the way to the edge of the table to provide a more useful visual reference. Some carpenters will score this line, but that can get confusing if you use a blade with a different measurement, so we stick with erasable pencil. GRANT AN EXTENSION Miter gauges are crucial for making cross-cuts on a table saw. Most factory-supplied miter gauges, however, are too small to accurately handle workpieces longer than 2 or 3 feet because of the workpiece's tendency to pivot on either side of the undersized gauge. The solution: Make the miter gauge larger by adding an extension. The extension shown was made from a 4-in. wide scrap of painted wood trim screwed to the face of the miter gauge flush with the saw table. The board you choose should be very straight and strong enough to resist bending. I first ripped 1/8 in. off one edge of the board to ensure a straight line, then routed that edge with a 1/4-in. roundover bit. The router gives the bottom edge of the extension a slight bullnose so it will easily slide over the table top without catching or chattering. The length of the extension should span the majority of the workpieces you plan to cut and should reach past the blade kerf. Pass the extension over the blade and cut through it to show the precise kerf location, which can guide your production cuts. The extension not only adds stability and thus accuracy to you cross-cuts, but by backing the workpiece, it also reduces blade tear-out and splintering of the material. UNDER PRESSURE A featherboard is a safety device that applies pressure against a workpiece, keeping it flat against the table or fence. Featherboards can vary in shape and size, and you can make a simple version with your table saw. Select a straight-grained, defect-free wood board and cut a 45-degree miter on one end. On the mitered end, cut several parallel cuts in the direction of the grain to create fingers or "feathers" that flex in the direction of workpiece travel. In any cutting operation where the blade guard must be removed because the blade won’t be cutting completely through the wood, “featherboards” should be used for additional safety. The featherboard prevents the workpiece from being dragged backward by blade friction. Featherboards can be clamped above and to the side of the workpiece to exert pressure until the cut is complete. Don't want to make your own featherboard? A variety of manufactured table saw jigs and accessories are available from companies such as Milescraft. AUXILIARY CLUB In some cases of very narrow rips, such as less than 2 inches wide, the blade and fence can get dangerously close, which impedes visibility and makes it difficult to use a push stick. In such a case, you can build an L-shaped “auxiliary fence” about 5-1/2 inches wide and 12 to 22 inches long to fit your table surface. The rectangular sides must be straight and parallel. The L-shaped lip aligns with the rip fence, and the lower side of the auxiliary fence acts as an extension of the rip fence, only with a lower profile to guide the stock by sliding beneath the guard for closer proximity to the blade. PUSH IT When ripping narrow stock, another useful table-saw tool is a push block. Like a push stick, it’s designed to spare your fingers as you push a workpiece into the blade. A push block, however, has a low, flat profile that can slide beneath the blade guard and a notch at its rear that catches the workpiece to push it from behind, when a normal push stick is too large to use. To make a push block, use countersunk screws to fasten a 5-in. dorsal handle in a T-shape orientation along the midpoint of the1/2-in. thick plywood bottom, which has the 3/8-in. deep notch cut into one corner. Aside from the notch projection, the sides of the plywood bottom should be straight and parallel. TABLE SAW TERMS AT A GLANCE Rip Cut: Rip cuts, or “cutting to width”, is the most common table saw cut and goes along with the grain of the stock. It requires the use of the table saw’s rip fence. Crosscut: The crosscut, or “cutting to length”, is one of the fundamental table saw cuts, entailing a cut across the grain of the wood. It requires the use of a miter gauge or sled on a table saw. Bevel Cut: A bevel refers to a cut with the blade at an angle, as opposed to one perpendicular to the tabletop. Bevel cuts are common for joints and all table saws can adjust to accommodate bevel cuts. Miter Cut: A miter is a cut to length at an angle, instead of perpendicular to the grain of the wood. It is a cut common to assembling frames. Resaw: A resaw is an in-grain cut across the stock’s thickness, instead of its width. for example, a table saw can be used to resaw a 4x4 post into two 2x4 boards. #tablesaw #tablesawjig #featherboard #tablesawaccessories #carpentry #woodwork

(guest post courtesy of Kim Katwijk of Deck Builders Inc.) The ability to bend man-made decking materials is taking builders and homeowners to new heights of imagination and creativity. All you have to do is look at the recent winners of NADRA’s (North American Deck & Railing Association) national deck competition to realize curves are where it’s at. If you are a homeowner thinking of upgrading, replacing or building a new deck, you might be wondering if you can create the deck of your dreams yourself, or will you need a professional? After reading this article, you should have a pretty good idea of what it takes to create a curvy deck. A Literal Learning Curve—My Journey into Board Bending I am in my 25th year of building decks full time. With that many years of experience under my belt, I guess I qualify to fill you in on how it’s done. But first, let me confess my failures. My first attempts at board bending were with Trex decking some twenty years ago. I had built a curved Cambara wood deck for a client. The client wanted a curved railing to match, so I thought I’d try to heat and bend a Trex composite deck board as the top railing board. The first heating apparatus I created was a 20-ft. long by 20-in. diameter Sonotube laid on the flat with rebar shoved through the sides to suspend the decking. Two kerosene space heaters forced hot air into each end of the tube. This method produced uneven heating and dismal results. Next, I tried a water-bath heater using a PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise. I glued four inlets into the half-pipe, then inserted a water tank heater into each inlet. I was able to heat the water to boiling. After an hour of boiling a board, I could bend a 20-ft. composite board to a radius of about 18 feet. That’s not very good. To get the 5-ft. radius I needed, I had to rip the composite boards into three strips, heat them, bend them to a 5-ft. radius, then glue and screw them back together. It was passable. On another project, I tried to get higher temperatures by insulating the pipe and capping it with rigid insulation. This succeeded so well that the tank melted. I gave up on bending deck boards until, at a trade show, I discovered the Heatcon bending system. Working with this system, I was able to bend a flat piece of 5-1/2-in. Azek cellular PVC decking to a radius of 22-1/2 inches. Impressive! This opened the door to new levels of artistic expression. I used Heatcon with great success for years, but when it came to bending Trex Transcend capstock boards, the system would end up either not heating the core layer enough to bend, or it would melt the softer top layer and ruin the embossed grain patterns. In 2016, I was with other professional board benders at Bendfest in Seattle. The discussion turned to the problem of bending Trex Transcend capstock. My friend, Jason Russell, brilliantly came up with the idea of using two Heatcons set at different temperatures and cross blanketing them. This just might do the trick! And yes, it worked, the downside being now you needed to buy two units instead of one. I approached Heatcon about developing a dual control unit, but that was not something they were willing to do. Two and half years later, I developed my own system, and started my own company, Inblazen—heating gear with dual-control skins. Voilà! Capstock bending problem solved! Design Your Dream Deck All good things begin with a plan. If you have a hard time seeing how something will look just from a drawing on a paper, you’ll probably want to hire a professional deck designer/builder. If you are imaginative and determined, you can design your own dream deck with the help of a good software program. Most top deck builders use Real Time Landscape Architect http://deckdesignsoftware.us/. At $400 for the software, it is very reasonably priced. It’s quick and easy to learn the program, and the 3D photo realistic renderings help you visualize how the deck will look. Bending Systems If you are serious about creating your own deck masterpiece, you will need a way to heat and bend the boards. To be fair and thorough, let’s look at your choices. There are three systems designed for board bending. • Trex Customcurve™ The Box Priced at $8,499.00 plus shipping Comes with a Forming table 4’x8’ Able to heat two 8’ boards at the same time Able to heat railing, decking and trim Adjustable temperature up to 300° F Weighs 330 lbs., 24”H x 40”W x 128”L (need a fork lift) Operates on LP gas and 110V, 15-amp service Having used this system, I find that 8-ft. boards are just too short. You can never use all the board, so having a joint every 7 feet is annoying. Their table is nice to work with, especially when you try to bend railing. • Heatcon® HC99-300 – Heat Forming Kit $2,700.00 plus shipping for a 10’ kit 2 - 8″x10′ heating blankets Adjustable temperature up to 300° F Able to heat a 10’ deck board 2 kits can bend 20’ boards Operates on 110V, 15-amp service Weighs 25 lbs., easily carried and stored Heatcon’s web page states, “Not recommended for capstock materials.” • InBlazen – Heating Gear 360) 591-1448 $2,500.00 for 10’ gear (Also comes in 12’ gear) 2 - 8″x10′ Heating Skins Adjustable temperature up to 350° F Dual control (Each skin can be set to desired temperature independent of the other, specially designed with all Capstock decking in mind.) 2 kits can bend 20’ deck boards Operates on 110V, 15-amp service (option of 240 volts for worldwide use) Weighs 25 lb., easily carried and stored Both Heatcon and InBlazen heating systems need insulation. We use Ultra-Touch Denim Insulation, because it’s more pleasant to work with than fiberglass. The heating method is to lay down the insulation on a flat surface like a garage floor, then lay the skin or blanket on top of the insulation, then the board face down, then the second skin or blanket, and finish off with the second strip of insulation. This is how all bending is done. If it is wet or windy, we will put down plastic sheeting, and then fold it over the whole pile to hold in the heat and keep it dry. Which Decking Materials are Best for Bending? The array of composite and PVC boards has increased dramatically over the past twenty years. Because it’s my business, I try diligently to know the pros and cons of most of them. Any man-made decking that contains plastic can bend, but how well each of them bends is variable. How tight can you bend a 5-1/2-in. wide board? It all depends on the makeup of the decking. The tightest that I know of is 8-1/2-in. inside radius in a 360° circle with ClubHouse Decking. I have independently done my own field evaluations and bend testing of numerous boards. There are some types of decking that are fine boards, but are not formulated for bending. Following is the list of boards that I have tested and which ones are suitable for bending. ClubHouse® Decking https://www.clubhousedecking.com/ ClubHouse Decking bends easily, is dimensionally stable, and has a warranty that stays in effect even on bent boards. Inteplast / Wolf Decking https://www.inteplast.com/our-products-solutions/product-categories/building-products/decking / https://www.wolfhomeproducts.com/deckingandporch/serenitydecking Inteplast and Wolf boards can be bent to an inside radius of 3’ or less. Azek decking https://www.timbertech.com/azek-decking Azek decking can be bent to a radius of 4’ or less. The tightest I have achieved with Azek was a 22.5” inside radius. Boards will swell a tiny amount when heating. Fortress decking https://fortressdeck.com/about-us/ Moistureshield decking https://www.moistureshield.com/ Fortress and Moistureshield are capstock. Bends easily to about a 6’ radius. Trex Transend decking https://www.trex.com/products/decking/ Trex Transcend is a capstock. It can be bent to an inside radius of 10’ or less. The tightest I’m aware of is an 8’ radius. This is where InBlazen really shines. By heating Trex face down and setting the lower skin at 200° and the top skin at 260°, Trex can be bent to under 10’ without melting and distorting the grain pattern. TimberTech https://www.timbertech.com/ Capstock. Can be bent to 14’ radius. True North Decking http://thenorthdeck.com/ Capstock. Can be bent to 15’ radius. Deckorators https://www.deckorators.com/en/Products/Decking Capstock. Heritage™, Vista™, and Classic™ can be bent to 15’ radius. Fiberon decking https://www.fiberondecking.com/ Capstock. Can be bent to 15’ radius. Tamko http://envisiondecking.com/ Capstock. Can be bent to 16’ radius. Décor Decking https://inteplastbuild.com/products/deck/decor-deck.html Cellular PVC. Usually bends easily, but when temperature is high enough to bend, the grain pattern begins to vanish. Deckorator Eovation Decking http://www.eovationsllc.com/ Does not bend. (Note: If I do not mention a particular brand of decking, it is because I have not been sent any boards for evaluation.) Framing for a Curved Deck Once the joists are in, you will put a nail in the center, attach one end of a wire to it, attach a pencil to the other end of the wire, and use this like a compass to draw the curve on top of the joists. Now, you have a line to follow as you skillfully cut the joists using a chainsaw. Yep, that’s how I do it. The chainsaw will allow you to cut any angle. After cutting your joists, you need to cut blocking to install between the joists. This makes your rim. If you plan to install a ribbon to trim the outer edge of the deck, use another set of blocking to support all the board ends. All boards must be supported within 3 inches of the end. Inlay and patterns in the deck Inlays and patterns can be a lot of fun. Just remember that every piece needs adequate support beneath. This can be done with blocking to support both sides of every piece of the design, or—a slick trick to use, especially when the design has many small pieces—install a 1-in. fiberglass grid beneath the design. The grid can be obtained from McNichols Fiberglass Grating. Whether you choose to tackle the job of doing it all yourself or to find a professional who can bring your ideas to life for you, beautiful outdoor living spaces with free-flowing, curving lines are now available to homeowners around the world! Bending technology allows your imagination to flow as you think outside the box to create the thing we call a deck. WATCH THE INBLAZEN SYSTEM IN ACTION! #deckbuilding #decks #deckconstruction #deckbuilder #compositedeck #compositedecking #boardbending #curveddecking #inblazen #heatconn #bendboards #deckbuild

(guest post courtesy of Wren Kitchens) As the new year approaches and with-it new trends, Wren Kitchens, have used Pinterest data to reveal the most popular 2022 kitchen features for those looking to revamp their kitchens next year. To help those seeking inspiration for new kitchens, or just simply wanting to keep up with the latest trends, the study analyzed 2022 kitchen interior images on Pinterest to understand the common features people are looking to style their kitchens with next year. Some of the most popular features included brass handles, white quartz slab backsplashes, and statement extractor hoods. Below you’ll find even more creative inspiration on the must-have kitchen for 2022, along with comments from Darren Watts, Showroom Development & Design Director at Wren Kitchens. 1. Dark colors Darker colored kitchens such as blacks and royal blues are likely to dominate kitchens in 2022, setting the dramatic yet elegant look. Used cleverly, darker tones can add a real element of sophistication to kitchens, creating a lifted and opulent environment. Darren comments, "Colors of a darker tone add a contemporary and dramatic feel to a room, whilst also helping to close the space slightly creating a cost environment." 2. Wooden cupboards Wooden tones are likely to be popular in 2022. Kitchens will abandon uniformity and instead opt for the use of two-tone cabinets, with one wooden tone. “Wood cabinets have always been a classic choice for kitchens; however, they’re starting to rise in popularity again. There’s also a desire to have painted wooden kitchens, so the grains in the wood are still visible – giving an element of texture to the kitchen.” 3. Statement or Hidden Extractor Hoods It’s likely that there is going to be more of a feature made from extractor hoods, with some designs opting for more statement, bold fans to really wow guests. Alternatively, it could be common for them to look as though they blend into the kitchen walls, with some interior styling opting to ‘box’ them in, creating a sleek white boxing around the hood to hide it away. “Extractor fans can sometimes be forgotten about when designing kitchens, however, there are some great statement hoods to add wow-factor to your space.” 4. Kitchen islands Kitchen islands are still going to be prominent, especially as we look to move into post-pandemic life and more people want a kitchen that is fit for every kind of situation. “Kitchen islands have been a must-wanted item in homes for some time now, and it’s no surprise they’ll continue to be a big trend in 2022 as people opt for functional yet trendy spaces.” 5. Greens Many paint companies have already predicted how much of a popular color green will be towards the end of 2021 and into the next year. And so, following this, a lot of people are opting for green cupboards, from muted sages to bolder, darker tones. Furthermore, based on how much we relate the color to the great outdoors, green can also add a sense of calm and tranquility to a room. “Greens create a peaceful and relaxed environment for the home. If you’re feeling braver and want to have fun with color, green tones are the perfect color option for kitchens.” 6. White worktops White worktops in all forms are likely to popular, from laminate worktops to quartz. Not only do they help to add some brightness to darker kitchens, but they also go hand-in-hand with any color cabinet to create an effortlessly chic look. “White worktops are a classic in kitchens and can brighten any room, especially as we’re seeing darker kitchens trend.” 7. Open shelving instead of cupboards Another popular design option in 2022 will be no wall cabinets, which will be replaced by open shelving for a more modern look. Alternatively, there’s also a rise in interest around glass fronted cupboards along walls, with pots, pans and the like on display. Both features can help a kitchen feel more open and brighter, shelves can also be fairly inexpensive for those looking to create a stylish look on a budget. “This is definitely more of a contemporary option that can look super stylish when done correctly. It can also create a really homely, inviting look having pots, pans and the like on display”. 8. Hidden pantries Storage, storage and more storage is at the front of nearly every homeowners wish lists! As families grow and people opt to renovate homes rather than move, there’s likely going to be a trend in more kitchens having hidden pantries built into them. Pantries, or larders, are great for all sorts or purposes, from creating specialized nooks for breakfast, to hiding away clunkier worktop electronics such as toasters and coffee machines. “Built in pantries can add a great amount of space to kitchens, providing the perfect storage space to help keep worktops free from clutter.” 9. White quartz slab backsplashes Quartz is a real classic look in kitchens, adding texture in a chic, modern way but it’s also a hardwearing material which works perfectly as a backsplash. Large slabs of quartz used as backsplashes could be a big trend in the next year, creating a laidback statement to any kitchen. “A timeless look, quartz is the perfect way to add texture to kitchens. Used as a slab backsplash, it can add real touch of elegance.” 10. Brass hardware More of a warmer, brighter color than gold or copper, brass can really make an impact in any kitchen and goes perfectly with nearly every color cabinetry out there. Hardware in any form of brass, from vintage to polished, will likely be popular in 2022, adding a touch of drama without being overpowering. “Brass hardware in kitchens is coming back quick and fast, with them fitting perfectly with nearly every color kitchen out there. They also add the perfect touch of warmth to any space.” Further trend predictions for 2022 can be found here.

Treating end-cuts in pressure-treated lumber is not just a good idea, it’s now a requirement for warranty coverage. New American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) Standards for preserving end-cuts are being referenced by the International Building Code and International Residential Code. This means building codes are changing. If your local municipality has not already adopted the new end-cut application as a requirement to meet building code, then they may do so in the near future. When you make a cut in a piece of pressure-treated lumber, you expose the interior wood fiber to water, fungus and insects that the pressure treatment would otherwise protect against. Sealing the end cuts with an approved liquid preservative becomes an important way to protect your investment. The liquid treatment can be applied to dry wood by sprayer, roller or brush. Back- brushing will help work the product into the wood grain. Allow the treatment to dry, then apply a second coat. Sealing the exposed ends is a simple process that exhibits quality workmanship, but that’s not the only reason to do it. You may not realize that treated-lumber manufacturers back their warranty if the builder follows the best practices for handling and installation, and “best practices” now include treating the field cuts with an approved preservative. Check your product warranty and don’t be surprised if you find indications that read: “Surfaces that have been cut or trimmed and other holes or damage should be treated with a wood preservative end-cut solution in accordance with the label’s directions. Acceptable wood preservatives contain a minimum of 0.675 percent copper as oxine copper (copper-8 or copper-8-quinolinolate) or 1 percent copper as copper naphthenate.” In other words, if you don’t coat your end cuts with a preservative—and use the correct preservative—then your treated-lumber structure may not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. SIDE NOTE Outlast Q8 Log Oil Are you waiting months for your pressure-treated deck to dry before staining? That's common practice when building with lumber still damp from the treatment plant. The average wait time between the installation of your wooden structure and the application of ordinary stains and sealers is 6 months. Outlast Q8 Log Oil eliminates the wait. When you use Q8, you can build and stain and provide a pressure-treated wood sealer all on the same day. Furthermore, did you know that the International Residential Code (IRC) now mandates during construction that you “heal” any drilled holes, abrasion, or end cuts on pressure-treated lumber? Either 1% Copper Naphthenate or .675% Copper 8 quinolinolate (aka Oxine Copper) will satisfy the new requirements. But Outlast Q8 Log Oil with .675% copper is the only warranty-required product that addresses the wait time and the new code. Build, stain and seal in the same day with no wait time. In fact, Outlast Q8 Log Oil is spelled out by name by many pressure-treaters themselves. Learn more at outlastproducts.com. #treatedwood #treatedlumber #pressuretreated #outdoorbuilding #decks #fences #pergolas

(image © St-aBil) For winter storage, it’s important to protect gas-fired outdoor power equipment by prepping the fuel systems of the engines. One common method to protect the engine is to drain the fuel tank and carburetor prior to winter storage. However, the fuel system should still be addressed, because alcohol-blended fuels can attract moisture, which leads to separation and formation of acids during storage. Acidic gas damages the fuel system of an engine, and moisture can trigger corrosion in the tank, fuel lines, carburetor and cylinders This applies to lawnmowers, chainsaws, weed trimmers, blowers, and other gas-powered equipment. The problems are due in part because it is difficult to get every drop of fuel out of the system, and when oxygen reacts with the remaining fuel, it can create a gummy residue that clogs parts of the carburetor. A clogged carburetor prevents the engine from starting and will require cleaning the carburetor or further maintenance. Fuel system plastics and rubbers are designed to live in fuel, and these components can become brittle and crack when exposed to air. To avoid damage, use a quality fuel stabilizer and fresh fuel before storing equipment for the season. (Adding fuel stabilizer to old fuel will stop further degradation, but the fuel may already have broken down because gas lasts only a couple of months before going bad). To store for winter, fill the tank 95 percent full with fresh, stabilized fuel, leaving room to prevent the fuel from expanding and spilling as the weather warms. After adding the stabilizer, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the fuel into the carburetor and fuel lines. Clean engine often to keep gunk from accumulating and reduce corrosion. A clogged engine runs hotter and shortens engine life, but avoid using a garden hose because water in the engine can shorten engine life. Replace the air filter every season (and more frequently under dusty conditions. To clean the filter, remove its cover, carefully remove the cartridge, and gently tap it on a flat surface. #winterize #fuelstabilizer #equipmentstorage #diy

(guest post courtesy of Thomas Mustac) If you ask around for stories about home remodeling projects, you are bound to hear a tale about an unethical contractor or two. Matt DiBara of DiBara Masonry, a leading masonry and concrete company headquartered in Los Angeles, California, did not need to ask around. The stories found him. “In the last few years, it’s unbelievable the amount of calls that we have gotten in my office for projects that have already been completed that were part of a scam, that weren’t done properly, that didn’t have permits pulled, or that are in litigation,” Matt says. Matt did what he could to fix the work, but he knew there had to be a way to stop the scams before they happened. So he launched The Undercover Contractor to give homeowners the information that they need to be able to spot and avoid construction scams. A long history of helping homeowners Matt’s family has been involved in construction work for more than a century. Matt first saw the fallout from unethical contractors as he watched his father respond again and again to pleas for help from homeowners who had been scammed. Moved with compassion, Matt’s dad did what he could to fix problems and guide people through legal battles brought against scammers. As Matt followed in his father’s footsteps and started DiBara Masonry, he discovered that nothing had changed. Unscrupulous contractors continued to scam people, now using websites with stock photos and fake reviews to fool people into believing that their businesses were legitimate and their services were sound. “I launched the Undercover Contractor to give homeowners the information that they need to have a clear understanding of how to find, vet, hire, and manage contractors,” Matt says. “My passion is empowering homeowners with the in-depth industry insight that my family has learned from more than a decade of doing construction work well.” Tell-tale signs that you are about to be scammed Through his Undercover Contractor Podcast as well as his upcoming book The Confident Homeowner, Matt provides tips designed to help homeowners navigate all phases of construction projects. One of Matt’s most popular podcast episodes addresses how not to get scammed by contractors. Avoid big upfront deposits The first tell-tale sign Matt says to look for when trying to avoid unethical contractors is big upfront deposits. “For me, trust is key. I want my clients to feel comfortable,” says Matt. “At my company, we take a zero dollar deposit. I never take deposits. I don’t take any money until my crew shows up and we start work.” Matt points out that companies that need a big upfront deposit may have cash flow problems, which is not a sign of a healthy, successful business. Another possibility is that the company intends to scam you by taking your deposit and never showing up to do the work. “For you as the homeowner, big deposits are a no-no,” Matt says. Avoid an unclear contract The purpose of a construction contract is to lay out on the front end what both the contractor and the homeowner are committed to do. “I urge my clients to clearly understand their contract,” says Matt. “Never sign an agreement without knowing exactly what you are getting. If you don’t know, you’re in trouble.” Matt defines unclear contracts as those that are short and abbreviated or that use a lot of jargon that is only understood by contractors. If the contract refers to supplies like “Number 4 Rebar” or “Cooling Condensers” that you can’t decipher, as a homeowner you have every right to ask questions and get clarification. If the contractor is not willing to sit down and discuss the contracts, explaining each point to your satisfaction, that should be a red flag. Avoid unfavorable terms of payment An unethical contractor will often dictate terms of payment that are stacked in his favor. This is why it is important to have a clear contract that the homeowner can understand. Once the work is described in detail and a schedule is laid out, payments should be released when it is appropriate to cover the cost of the construction. “If a contractor shows up with a little bit of material and he or she is taking 70 percent of the contract value, that probably doesn’t make sense,” says Matt. “The best rule of thumb is to stack more of the payments toward the end of the scope of work.” In the case of work that requires inspections, the best practice is to release payment only after inspections have been passed. Require a clear schedule An ethical contractor should walk you through each phase of your project and explain how long each phase will take to complete. When a bathroom is being remodeled, you should know when demolition will begin, how long before demolition is complete, when plumbers will begin work, when plumbing inspections will happen, and reasonable expectations on all other phases of work until the project is complete and you are enjoying your new bathroom. “This is one place where contractors absolutely take advantage of homeowners,” Matt says. “When they are not committed by a contract to a clear schedule, they can start your job and work just enough to get a good payment, then move on to another job and do the same thing there.” This practice, which Matt says is very common in the industry, is what causes jobs that should only take two weeks to be stretched out over four months. In cases like this, a clear schedule will give a homeowner a tool for holding a contractor accountable. It’s not unusual for an unethical contractor to refuse to provide a clear schedule. Require a final project walk-through No construction project is done until the homeowner and the contractor have conducted a walk-through, which is an inspection of the project done together to ensure that the work has been completed according to the contract. Matt recommends the final walk-through accomplish two primary goals. First, the homeowner should understand if there is anything they need to know about the work moving forward. For example, if concrete work has been done, the contractor should explain if the work needs to be sealed or cleaned, how often, and what products are recommended. The second objective is making sure that all the work has been completed with no problems. If problems are discovered, such as leaky faucets or sloppy paint jobs, they should be addressed. “You want to discuss where you are at present in the process and what you need to do in the future to get the most of the work that you are paying for,” says Matt. Contractors that avoid walk-throughs may have something to hide. Make sure that it is part of the contract and it happens before final payment is made. Your home is a huge investment. Don’t trust it to an unethical contractor. Honest contractors are out there. These tips will help you to find them.

(guest post courtesy Wally De La Rosa for Money.com) There is a lot involved with becoming a homeowner. From pre-approval to open houses and making your first offer on a property, first-time buyers have a lot on their plate when it comes to getting their dream home, and their insurance policy is no simple appetizer on the menu. While states don’t require insurance as an enforceable statute of the law, your lender will require enough coverage to cover the amount of your mortgage loan until the loan is paid off. As with everything related to your home-buying journey, knowing what you’re looking for in advance will help you find a policy that best fits your needs and budget. This post should give readers a better understanding of the factors that influence their premiums, the types of policies, and cost-saving tips to get started. WHY INSURANCE IS IMPORTANT The last thing homeowners should worry about after going through a lengthy mortgage process is the possibility of damages to their home. After all, you worked so hard at finding the right place and getting the best mortgage deal, not to mention the time it took to save up for a down payment. But when you have a mortgage, your bank needs to make sure all their losses are covered in case something unexpected happens, like a fire or a flood, and a homeowner’s policy helps protect you and your lender during such events. If a homeowner fails to explore options before signing on their home, it’s up to the lender to decide which policy to select and purchase—they’re allowed, but they must give you advance notice before moving forward. The downside to letting this happen is that your lender will be looking out exclusively for their own interests, meaning you and your family might not be covered under their chosen policy, and it might be pricier. There are four main coverage areas found in any homeowner’s policy, namely, dwelling and personal property coverage, liability protection, and loss of use coverage. As their name suggests, each coverage class aims to protect the homeowner against known perils that affect their home or belongings. In the case of liability protection, it’s main purpose is to protect you or your family members against lawsuits for injuries or property damage caused to others. It also pays for damages caused by your pets. Loss of use coverage helps homeowners pay for living or housing expenses incurred in the event of their home becoming inhabitable during a disaster. KNOWING THE MAIN TYPES OF INSURANCE POLICIES There are several different layers of coverage that you can apply to your homeowners’ policy. This will vary for every homeowner depending on certain factors that affect their risk, like location. HO1 The most basic policy. It covers damage inflicted by these 10 perils: ■ Fire and lightning ■ Hail and windstorms ■ Explosions ■ Civil unrest ■ Aircraft damage ■ Vehicle damage ■ Smoke ■ Vandalism ■ Theft ■ Volcano eruption HO2 A step up from HO1, it includes the previous named perils plus: ■ Falling objects ■ Snow ■ Water discharge (not flooding) ■ Sudden cracking, bulging or burning of a built-in appliance ■ Accidental damage from electrical currents ■ Freezing HO3 The most commonly purchased policy. It covers all perils except floods and earthquakes. If you live in a flood zone or earthquake-prone state, you might want to consider taking out a rider or add-on coverage for those perils. HO4 This is renter’s insurance. Applicable only to tenants and their belongings while living under rent. HO5 This is the highest level of protection offered. It will cover structure and belongings at replacement cost regardless of which peril caused the damages. HO6, HO7, and HO8 The first of which covers condominiums. Keep in mind that common areas and structures are typically covered by your Homeowner’s Association, HO6 will only cover your belongings and the inside of your home exclusively. The second, HO7, is mobile home insurance, not to be confused with RV insurance. This also applies to manufactured homes which are built and then transported to a plot of land. HO8 is coverage for older, pricier homes that are more expensive to replace due to material costs. TIPS FOR SAVING ON HOMEOWNER INSURANCE COSTS As with other insurance products, there isn’t a single recommended carrier homeowners have to choose from, but a variety of providers with different rates, policies, and benefits from which to consider. The driving force behind insurance rates is the likelihood that a homeowner will file a claim. A good way to gauge your potential premiums is by considering any previous insurance claims you may have filed, as well as past claims related to your property. Your home’s condition, neighborhood, and cost of building materials also play part in setting your insurance rate. The single best piece of advice is to shop around for multiple quotes prior to closing day, similar to how mortgage shopping works. This way, you ensure you only pay for the coverage you need and find a deal that works for you. Aside from keeping your home in tip-top shape, and having excellent credit, there are other steps you can take to secure a better policy deal. For example, some carriers incentivize homeowners who meet certain home security criteria, like having 360 monitoring around the house. Some carriers also offer exclusive bundling discounts when you stack multiple insurance products under the same roof. This can be especially rewarding when you bundle your auto and home insurance under the same carrier. Last but not least, carriers offer discounts for periods of inactivity, making it useful to review your policy every year, making sure your insurance policy is keeping up with your home’s value and appreciation.

The HIR team toured the 2021 National Hardware Show in Las Vegas last week, and now we're back with news on the many tools and new products that were on display. Read on to find out what you can expect to find at hardware stores and home centers in 2022. Ekopel 2K-Set Bathtub Refinishing Coating The Ekopel 2K-Set includes two-components that create self-levelling bathtub coating, which is applied to cast iron and steel bathtubs, shower trays and sink resurfacing. You can use the bathtub again 24 to 48 hours after application. The product is applied with a pouring method to provides a very smooth surface and thicker layer than other paints. EKOPEL 2K-Set also includes stir stick, sand paper, etching cleaner and manual. The product is odorless, non-toxic and easy to use. https://ekopel2k.com/ Corner+Roller The Corner+Roller was designed as a faster, more efficient way to complete jobs without compromising the quality of work. By covering the outer hub of the paint roller with paint nap material, wall corners can be rolled along with the walls without need of a brush or specialty tool. www.cornerroller.com The Stinger Paint Brush The Stinger Brush includes an innovative Stinger Tip, a performance applicator which allows for easy release of paint and quick cleanup. Designed especially for cutting in corners and edges, the addition of extended filaments enables better control and excels in the easy release of paint on rough surfaces and heavier material. https://stingerbrush.com/ BucketEdge The BucketEdge was created to save time and materials when painting practically anything. The BucketEdge is a masking tool like tape and dropcloth in one because of the length it extends off the wall. It masks woodwork and floors and works as a shield when spraying exteriors on roofs, decks, and siding. https://www.buckettoolsllc.com/ MasterPlug Cord Reels MasterPlug Cord Reels are portable open-reel extension cords with four shuttered powered outlets and a super comfortable ridged handle. And overload circuit breaker with LED indicator cuts the power in the event of a power overload and allows you to reset if a cut-out occurs. A comfortable pull-out drum wind handle allows quick winding of the high-visibility cord assisted by the integrated cord guide. The on-reel on/off switch lets you control the power where you are working. http://masterplug.com/ IC Lights The IC Lights are installed inside cabinets for better visibility of the storage area. Open the door and the LED light turns on. Close the door and they instantly turn off, triggered by a magnetic switch. The IC Lights can easily be installed as a retrofit by DIY’ers without the need for special tools or skills. https://www.MorganImportsLLC.com California Air Tools Compressors California Air Tools Quiet Flow Air Compressors are engineered with the latest technology to provide high quality, reliability and longevity—and low decibels. The Quiet Flow Series is specifically designed for the DIY and homeowner customer. The compressors feature the Oil-Free Dual Piston Pump System, which allows the air compressor to work more efficiently creating less noise and less wear for a longer pump life. The Quiet Flow Series Motor/Pump has a life before wear of 1,000 hours and is easily repairable. https://www.californiaairtools.com/ Grover 4000 Change hard-to-reach chandelier bulbs with the new Grover 4000. Its small profile allows it to easily reach into tight shades that would otherwise have to be removed to change the light bulbs. Unlike standard candelabra light bulb removal tools, the Grover4000 works with any candelabra bulb, even on the small, irregularly-shaped bulbs commonly found in household chandeliers. Add an extension pole to the flexible rotating shaft, and reach up and over upward-facing candelabra bulbs for removal. No need to break out the stepladder. https://grover4000.com/ LadderWeight The LadderWeight is created to secure the feet of a ladder for safer use. It is portable, reuseable, no assembly required product. It is a patent-pending product that is 100% OSHA-compliant and works on every ladder and all surfaces. Each weight is 35 lbs. https://ladderweight.com/ TriLED Mosquito Repellent Light Bulbs triLED Technology lighting solutions work as a chemical-free mosquito repellent. The patented 1850k ambiance is engineered to deter mosquitoes within a 150 sq. ft. zone, so you and your family can stop applying unpleasant chemicals on your skin. All triLED products come with a lifetime warranty. https://triled-technology.com/ The Tech-Patch Tech-Patches are designed to permanently seals holes and cracks in pipes, whether that pipe is PVC, copper, steel, ABS, galvanized, cast iron, even HDPE. Plus, Tech-Patches permanently seal holes and cracks in metal and poly tanks, barrels and all other containers. Tech-Patches are impervious or highly resistant to oil, gas, all hydrocarbons, water and most common chemicals. Tech-Patches come in 2- and 3-millimeter thicknesses. The flourosilicone patch is bonded in place using a patented Polymer Bonding Process. https://tbbonding.com/ Freeze Miser Say goodbye to ugly styrofoam spigot caps and hello to a smarter, more reliable solution — the Freeze Miser. Prevent frozen or broken pipes. https://www.freezemiser.com/ Regal Mailboxes That is one huge mailbox from Regal Mailboxes. Better to receive and shelter delivery packages. https://regalmailboxes.com TriggerFire Stapler The Surebonder TriggerFire staple gun allows for powerful one-handed stapling without having to squeeze the handle in awkward positions. Simply set the green dial to trigger mode and squeeze the handle. You are now primed to fire a staple with the pull of a trigger. In Normal Mode, simply squeeze the handle to fire (same process as a "normal" staple gun). The TriggerFire feature is handy for use in tight spaces or hard-to-reach places. The gun is compatible with both Surebonder #4 staples and Arrow T50 staples. https://surebonder.com RapidFix RapidFix is a dual-component adhesive system comprised of a powerful, instant bonding adhesive and Welding Powder. The adhesive can be used alone or can be combined with the Welding Powder. The powder is formulated to harden instantly when it comes into contact with the adhesive. Together, the two are used to make repairs similar to a weld, as well as filling holes, gaps and cracks. The adhesive dries crystal clear. The welding powder hardens opaque-white and can be painted immediately. The hardened welding powder can be instantly drilled, sanded, ground, filed and painted. RapidFix UV (in the yellow bottle) is a liquid plastic adhesive that only sets when exposed to UV light. Simply shine the UV light on the adhesive for 10-20 seconds to cure. The adhesive hardens in seconds to crystal clear. The high strength bond can be sanded, filed and painted. https://www.rapidfix.com/ Reekon Digital Measurer Check out the Reekon Tools digital measuring device for miter saws. This was one of many new tools we saw demonstrated at the National Hardware Show. Koblenz USA Contractor Vac Demonstrating the suction power of the new Koblenz contractor wet/dry vac. https://www.koblenz.com/products/wet-dry-vacuums/ Micro-Mark Tools Have a small project? Need a small tool? How about a mini table saw from Micro-Mark ? My business card added for scale. https://www.micromark.com/ InstaTrim InstaTrim adhesive trim strips have patented, self-centering wings to ensure uniform positioning on any surface. The flexible material comes on a roll for easy use (also available in bulk rolls), and no special tools are needed—you simply peel and stick. The odor-less adhesive remains intact with no curing time necessary, and its long-lasting finish is durable and low maintenance. It’s an easy solution for uneven baseboards, imperfect wall corners and sloppy paint jobs. InstaTrim serves as an alternative to traditional caulk for kitchens, bathrooms, doors and windows. Six colors are available and strips come in widths of 1/2 and 3/4 inch. Visit instatrim.com Grabo I’ve gotta get me one of these. Need a hand…le? The Grabo tool uses suction power and an integrated handle to lift building materials, including glass, metal, plastic, wood, tile and pavers! https://grabo.com/ Eagle Tool Dirt Auger Need to install pipe or wire under a sidewalk? Meet the Dirt Auger from Eagle Tool. The dirt auger system is an economical and less labor intensive way to install cable and sprinkler systems under existing sidewalks and drives or place landscape feeding stakes. Due to its flexible spring steel shank this bit can be curved and aimed in the direction needed and drills only a large enough hole to pull wire or pipe back through. https://www.eagle-tool.us/ Pulse ShowerSpas Easily upgrade your old shower to a spa-like experience by retrofitting your old faucet with pre-plumbed plumbing fixtures from PULSE ShowerSpas, Inc. Leverage Booster The new patented Leverage Booster attaches to long-handled tools and pole saws. These poles can be heavy and hard to handle, and the clamp-on Leverage Booster can be easily retrofit onto the handle to provide stability and make the job easier. Use it for extension handles, pole saws, tree pruners, hedge cutters, weed whackers and fishing poles. https://www.whystrain.com/ Right On Bracket Right On Bracket supplies a variety of heavy-duty shelf brackets, granite countertop brackets, floating shelf brackets, modern shelf brackets, and other specialized metal brackets. These American-made support brackets are designed with high-weight capabilities to support any project reliably for a lifetime. https://rightonbracket.com/ Mayhew Insert and Power Bits Mayhew Tools introduces new made in the U.S.A. insert and power bit product lines. These bits are available to accommodate a wide variety of fastener styles and sizes and are made with S2 Tool Steel – a shock-resistant material that can withstand high impact. Additionally, the bits are heat treated to provide added strength and durability and their precision tip profile provides positive and precise fastener engagement. https://mayhew.com/ Grout-Aide Grout and Tile Marker SKM Products supplies a variety of repair products for the home and auto, such as the Grout-Aide Grout and Tile Marker. Change or refresh your grout color and make any tile floor, countertop or wall look brand new. The grout paint marker has a faster, easier application on straight grout lines to cover mold, mildew and tough stains, and they present an easy way to change the color of your grout. https://www.skmproducts.com/ Gator Magnetics Gator hooks are magnetic storage hooks that have a high weight-carrying capacity. They use a proprietary patented technology that prints north and south pole dots, called “Maxels” (a mash-up of "magnets" and "pixels") in specific patterns creating many shorter magnetic fields (called near field magnetic flux) that make the Gator magnet much more efficient on common thin steel surfaces found in your home and exponentially stronger than traditional magnets with weight capacities over 40 lbs. per square inch. Use them to store tools in your garage or to hang a holiday wreath on your steel door. https://www.gatormagnetics.com/ Paddle Grabber The Paddle Grabber is a 48-inch long reach tool that provides a safe distance between the user and litter/debris. Pick up leaves and debris effortlessly at a stand-up position with ne bending or squatting. It’s designed to be easier and quicker than using hand leaf scoopers and rake grabbers. https://grab-all.com/ #NationalHardwareShow #NHShow #NHS2021 #NHSConnects #NewProducts #NewTools