The new wraparound deck at Martinez home in Hoover, Alabama, makes a great place to relax and entertain guests. When it came time to design the deck’s railing system, a drink rail was a natural fit. To build any sort of guardrail system for a deck, you must start with a strong post foundation. Pressure-treated 4x4 posts are often used as the “bones” of the system, whether they’re left uncovered or they serve as a core post for decorative sleeves made of vinyl or composite material. For a strong post connection, HIR recommends fastening the post bottom within the deck frame perimeter using two 1/2-inch galvanized through-bolts with washers driven through the joist framing and the full thickness of the post. To bolster this connection, you can opt for a post-to-deck metal bracket, such as that manufactured by Simpson Strong-Tie or DeckLok. These metal brackets fasten to the through-bolts and connect flush to an adjacent framing member with galvanized screws. If the posts don’t line up next to an adjacent joist, then you may have to install blocking to provide a fastening surface. Using the metal brackets takes a little more time, money and effort, but this stronger connection will ensure the posts stay safe and sturdy. Always check with your local building codes for specific guidance on what is acceptable guardrail post connections in your area. To install a rail system at the Martinez home, the crew from Canopy Construction notched the 4x4 posts to connect over the rim joists, trapping the lower portion inside the framing where they were toe-nailed and anchored with structural screws into the joist. On this project, the crew installed composite post sleeves and composite rails with metal balusters. The post sleeves can be cut to fit using a fine-tooth saw blade to avoid chipping. (A carbide finish blade is recommended.) These days, a wide range of kit-built systems are available from a number of manufacturers. A kit system’s predetermined measurements and fastening locations greatly simplify the assembly and installation of a deck rail. Once the posts are properly aligned, spaced and firmly fastened in place, the remaining components are easy to put together. The required components for each rail section generally include a Hardware Kit, Rail Pack, Baluster Pack, Post Sleeves, Post Skirts, and Post Caps. Stair parts are also available. Determine how many 6- or 8-ft. sections you need and make sure you have all the components. Shown are the components of the system used on this project; image © Timbertech Note that on this project, the homeowner wanted to forgo post caps in favor of the drink rail, which is a continuous composite cap on the rail that covers the posts and is broad and flat enough to hold a beverage. Post Sleeves After the posts are installed square and plumb, the first step in assembly is to cut the post sleeves to length. The composite sleeves shown are made by Timbertech, and they were nailed in place, then decorated with a sleeve skirt that hides any fasteners at the bottom. To ensure a level base for the drink rail that will eventually cap the posts, the builders fastened a level string line from corner post to corner post, which provided a guide to ensure all the posts were cut to the same height. Panel Installation On this project, the installers pre-assembled the remaining components and installed them as panels between the posts. To do so, first measure each section between the posts. Before cutting the rails to length, determine your baluster spacing. Decide whether the rail will be cut with a baluster in the center, or if the rail’s midpoint will be halfway between two balusters. This will ensure symmetrical layout of the balusters within each panel. Make sure both the top and bottom rails are cut to the same length. Next, measure and mark all baluster locations (with maximum 4-in. center spacing), then pre-drill the rails if necessary. Make sure the holes match on the top and bottom rails. Many kit systems include rails with baluster holes, which eliminates the need to pre-drill the fasteners. Fasten the balusters by driving exterior-grade screws through the rails. The balusters usually include screw holes or threaded connectors that insert into their ends. Next, attach the mounting brackets to the rail ends with the included screws. On the bottom rails, screw on the Foot Blocks included with the rails. For sections up to 6 feet, use two Foot Blocks evenly spaced. For 8-ft. sections use three blocks to provide support that prevents any bending or sagging of the rail sections. Make sure the rail panels are centered on each post, and attach them through the mounting brackets with coated screws. The last step is the addition of the composite drink rail, which matches the composite deck boards. The resulting kit-built system not only streamlines the installation process, but it minimizes visible fasteners, offers rock-solid stability, and adds a neat, finished appearance to the outdoor space. Shop around for deck rail systems and components to see what makes sense for your home. You’ll find lots of infill options, including a large selection of baluster styles, glass panels and cable-based systems, and even integrated lighting packages that brighten the night.

by Matt Weber We upgraded the countertop of a boy’s bathroom recently and took photos of the basic steps involved. One of the big advantages of doing your own work is the cost savings, and this was a very budget-friendly upgrade. By shopping at our local home salvage outlet, which offers discount prices on overstock items, we kept the material cost less than $250. This price included the laminated Acacia butcher block countertop ($138), (sink $48), faucet ($42 ), plus sealant for the joints, poly to coat the wood, metal brackets to anchor the new top, and a few plumbing parts for the faucet. Here’s a look at the countertop aspect of the project, along with a few tips. Here’s the old countertop to be removed. First step is to cut all the surrounding caulk joints, so the old countertop does not damage the surrounding wall or woodwork when you remove it. Some countertops will be screwed in place, and you will need to remove the fasteners. This one was glued, and we cut through the adhesive with a scraper blade. Remove all fasteners or glue as well as disconnect the faucet and drain, then tilt up and remove the countertop. Cut away any residual glue or sealant from the mounting surface of the cabinet or vanity. Carefully cut the countertop to size and shape. We used a circular saw with a track guide to ensure a perfectly straight cut. In this case, we made the backsplash from the same sheet of butcher block material. In such a moist environment as a bathroom, it is important to seal the wood. We recommend sealing the countertop on all sides and edges. The surface of the countertop shown has three coats of poly for protection. To ensure a tight-looking fit with no uneven gaps at the edges, we trace the shape of the countertop edge on the wall and cut out the drywall with a buzzcutter. By creating a notch, we can insert the countertop into the wall. When the countertop edge is concealed inside the wall, there is no visible gap along the sides. We can then repair the wall for a countertop that fits perfectly. We use the same drywall-notching technique to get a perfect fit for the backsplash. The backsplash was fastened to the wall framing with self-drilling trim screws, which have a tiny screw head that is easy to repair with matching wood filler. If the countertop will have a sink, then the cutout is made by clamping the countertop in place (or securely onto a workbench) and cutting with a jigsaw. Tip: Begin the cut by drilling a pilot hole large enough to insert the jigsaw blade. Once the cutout was made, we installed metal brackets near the sink location to anchor the countertop to the cabinetry and to provide extra support for the sink. We anchored the butcher block from below with screws. Caulk all exposed joints with a clear, waterproof, mildew-resistant sealant. Install the sink, if applicable. Some sinks include fasteners, but many like the one shown are caulked into place . We are a big fan of Frog Tape painter's tape, because it creates a seal when it contacts latex paint. This prevents paint bleed and protects surfaces such as the new countertop. Repair the wall at the edges using drywall compound, careful sanding, primer and paint. Shown below is the finished project with new sink and faucet. Here is the finished project once the faucet and drain were installed and the walls were repaired and painted. Helpful Video Reels for This Project

Here are some critical mistakes to avoid when tuning up your yard for the green season. 1. Don’t apply herbicide to new lawns. Fresh sod is sensitive and is in process of acclimating to its new environment, so herbicides which contain growth inhibitors can inhibit the sod from taking root and establishing. 2. Avoid applying herbicide when it’s too hot. Applying weed-control products when it’s over 85 degrees Fahrenheit can cause damage due to the chemical reaction “burning” the grass. Instead, fight weeds by applying pre-emergent herbicides during cooler seasons like spring and fall. In hot weather, find other non-chemical ways to get rid of weeds like hand-pulling them. 3. Avoid mowing wet grass. The dense wet grass forces your mower to work harder for an even cut, resulting in a patchy lawn. Plus, wet grass tends to clump, which can lead to lawn disease when it accumulates. If wet grass blades do clump together on the lawn, be sure to rake it thin to remove accumulation. 4. Avoid over-applying fertilizer. Too much lawn fertilize can “scorch” the lawn, meaning that fertilizer salts dehydrate the grass, causing it to turn yellow, brown or black. These salts pull moisture from the roots, resulting in dead streaks or patches. Heavy watering can help dilute excess fertilizer and preserve the health of the grass. 5. Avoid streaking the lawn fertilizer. Use a broadcast spreader for application and remember to overlap the rows slightly to avoid a striped effect on the fertilized grass. 6. Don’t forget to address soil compaction. Grass roots need water and air to thrive. Compacted soil restricts the movement of oxygen, water and nutrients. Keep an eye on your soil, and every few years it might be wise to rent a core aerator, a machine which pulls out small plugs of soil that enable essential nutrients to reach the grass roots. 7. Keep a proper watering regimen. Over-watering a lawn results in shallow roots and disease, while too little water can cause the grass to struggle from drought stress. Most grass only needs about one inch of water per week including rainfall. Create a watering schedule that accounts for the current weather conditions and your lawn’s type of soil. 8. Avoid using dull blades. Dull mower blades tear the grass rather than cut it, resulting in ragged edges that are susceptible to disease. Be sure to sharpen those blades. -- Special thanks to Sod Solutions for contributing this information. For more lawn care advice, visit www.sodsolutions.com.

By Rob Myers A home’s foundation is easy to overlook until something goes wrong. But by the time visible warning signs appear, underlying issues may already be progressing. Understanding what to look for, what causes these problems, and how they can be addressed is critical for both homeowners and contractors. For Homeowners: Foundation Warning Signs, Prevention and Next Steps Foundation problems rarely appear overnight. Instead, they develop gradually, often showing up first as small, but telling changes throughout the home. The key is knowing what those early indicators look like, and what they may signal. Some of the most common signs include: Cracks in exterior brick veneer or foundation walls: These may indicate shifting or settling in the foundation. Stair-step cracks in brick, in particular, are often a sign of differential movement. Cracks in basement walls or concrete slab floors: Horizontal cracks can signal pressure from soil pushing inward, while vertical cracks may point to settlement. Bowing or tipping basement walls: This is often caused by hydrostatic pressure from saturated soil and can indicate more advanced structural stress. Cracks in drywall, especially above doors, windows, or in corners: These are typically early interior signs of movement and shifting framing. Doors and windows that stick, don’t latch properly, or appear misaligned: As the structure shifts, openings can become distorted, affecting function. Sloping or uneven floors: This may suggest foundation settlement or issues with support structures beneath the home. Porches or steps pulling away from the home: Separation between attached structures can signal movement in the main foundation. Homeowners don’t need to inspect their foundation daily, but it’s wise to do a visual check a few times a year, particularly after heavy rainfall, seasonal changes, or drought conditions. The most important thing to watch is progression. A single small crack may not be cause for concern, but cracks that widen, multiply, or are accompanied by other symptoms should prompt further evaluation. What to Be Concerned About At the root of most foundation issues is movement in the soil beneath or around the home, often caused by moisture changes, poor drainage, or expansive soils that swell and shrink. As the soil shifts, the foundation moves with it, placing stress on the structure. These problems rarely fix themselves as they tend to worsen over time. What starts as a small crack can lead to structural instability, water intrusion, declining property value, and increasingly expensive repairs. While minor repairs may cost a few thousand dollars, more extensive structural work can quickly become significantly more expensive depending on severity and scope. That’s why early intervention matters. Addressing the underlying cause early can help prevent more serious damage and higher costs down the line. Prevention and Maintenance One of the most effective ways homeowners can protect their foundation is by managing water around the property. Key preventative steps include: Directing gutter downspouts at least 10 feet away from the foundation: This helps prevent water from pooling near the base of the home, where it can saturate soil and increase pressure against foundation walls. Keeping gutters clean and free of debris: Clogged gutters cause overflow, which can deposit large volumes of water directly next to the foundation instead of channeling it away. Ensuring proper grading so water drains away from the home: The ground around the home should slope away from the structure. Poor grading allows water to collect near the foundation, increasing the risk of settlement or hydrostatic pressure. Avoiding planting large trees or shrubs too close to the foundation: Root systems can either extract moisture from the soil, causing it to shrink and settle, or exert physical pressure that contributes to movement. Together, these measures help maintain consistent soil moisture levels, which is key to preventing expansion and contraction cycles that lead to foundation stress. When to Contact a Contractor Homeowners should contact a qualified foundation repair professional as soon as they notice multiple warning signs, worsening conditions, or structural changes that affect function (like sticking doors or sloping floors). Delaying action can allow damage to progress, increasing both the scope and cost of repairs. An early inspection provides clarity, helping determine whether the issue is cosmetic, environmental, or structural, and allows homeowners to take the right next step before problems escalate. For Contractors: Foundation Repair Solutions and Jobsite Considerations Foundation repair is not one-size-fits-all. The appropriate solution depends on soil conditions, geographic regions, and the specific issues affecting the structure. A system that works well in one part of the country may not be the right fit in another. Many foundation settlement issues can be addressed by underpinning the structure using steel pier systems, including: · Steel push piers, which are driven into the ground to stabilize the foundation · Helical piers, which are screwed into the soil and selected based on site conditions The choice between these systems is typically determined by soil type and the depth required to reach stable bearing conditions. For concrete slab homes, polyurethane foam injection may also be used as part of the repair process to help stabilize and support the slab. Steel pier systems from Titan Products. Jobsite and Installation Challenges Foundation repair projects can present a range of logistical challenges, particularly when it comes to site access and existing infrastructure. Access to the repair area may be limited due to: Lot topography Fencing or landscaping Homes built in close proximity to one another In addition, both overhead and underground utilities, including water, sewer, electric, and cable lines, can pose challenges during installation. To address these issues, it is critical that all utilities are properly located and marked prior to beginning work. Working with an experienced and reputable contractor helps ensure these challenges are managed safely and effectively. Key Takeaways for Homeowners and Contractors Foundation issues are often slow-moving but high-impact problems. Whether you’re a homeowner noticing early warning signs or a contractor evaluating repair options, understanding the underlying causes and appropriate solutions is essential. A few key takeaways: · Small warning signs can indicate larger underlying issues; don’t ignore them. · Water management is one of the most effective ways to prevent foundation problems. · Early intervention can significantly reduce repair costs and structural risk. · Repair solutions must be tailored to site-specific conditions, not applied universally. · Proper planning and experienced execution are critical for successful outcomes. Ultimately, protecting a home’s foundation comes down to awareness, prevention, and timely action. Addressing issues early not only preserves the structural integrity of the home, but it also helps avoid more complex and costly repairs in the future. -- About the author Rob Myers is Director of Operations at StableDry Services

Problem: Too many wood tones that clash in one room Many homes end up with multiple wood finishes—orange cabinets, dark furniture, light shelving—that compete visually. A quick DIY fix is re-staining a key piece to bring harmony to the room. Updating a table, shelving unit or thrifted furniture piece with a modern stain can help tie everything together while still showcasing natural grain. DIY’ers can shift wood tones warmer, cooler, darker or lighter to create a more cohesive look. The Cabot 2026 deck stain “Color of the Year,” Acorn, is a golden brown that brightens outdoor spaces with a warm glow in low light and deepens to offer inviting richness in sunlight. Problem: A deck or outdoor space that looks faded and neglected Outdoor spaces often feel tired simply because the wood has weathered over time. Applying a new stain in a modern shade instantly brings life back to the deck and makes the whole backyard feel intentional again. Quality exterior stains make it easy to add durable color that enhances the wood’s texture while protecting it for the season ahead. Problem: Hardware and décor that look mismatched or outdated Instead of replacing items like light fixtures, planters or cabinet pulls, a quick coat of spray paint can unify the look of a space. Matte black, brushed metallics or even soft pastels and vibrant accents—like those seen in Krylon’s 2026 Spring Color Collection—can turn everyday décor into statement pieces. High-quality spray paint makes it easy to tackle these small updates with smooth, durable color that dries quickly—perfect for a weekend DIY refresh. The “headboard” shown is a painted wall feature made with Dutch Boy Platinum® Plus Interior Paint + Primer Problem: A room that feels flat or one-dimensional Not every project requires repainting an entire room. A quick DIY solution is introducing a painted focal point, such as a color-blocked headboard wall, painted bookshelf or a bold interior door. These small projects add contrast and personality without overwhelming the space. Homeowners can experiment with color in creative, low-commitment ways that give a room more depth. Problem: DIY paint projects that look streaky or uneven Even the best color choice can fall flat if the application isn’t smooth. Avoid cheap equipment that wears out quickly and affects the finish. High-quality brushes and rollers help ensure clean lines, better coverage and a polished result—especially for detailed work like trim, cabinets or accent walls. Professional-grade tools help DIY’ers achieve that “just-painted” look. Purdy, for example, offers a new patent-pending Spirex brush series featuring spiral-wound filament technology for a superb paint finish.

By Tom Matthews The new Calacatta Nectar Quartz countertop from Casesarstone. Countertops take a lot of abuse. As one of the most heavily used surfaces of a house, homeowners want countertop materials that balance durability, low maintenance, beauty, and value. These days, quartz leads as the top choice for new installations and renovations, but quartz is also expensive and is only one of many options. This article covers several types of countertop materials and what to consider when selecting one. Quartz (Engineered Stone) Quartz has solidified its position as the most sought-after countertop material for most homeowners due to its engineered composition (roughly 90–95 percent crushed quartz mixed with resin and pigments). The fabrication process makes it extremely durable and resistant to scratches, stains, and daily wear. Plus it is non-porous, so it never requires sealing. Quartz is easy to clean with just soap and water. Although quartz is derived from a natural material, -its engineered composition gives it incredible design versatility. Whereas granite slabs retain the natural pattern of a quarried slab, quartz is available in endless colors, patterns, and realistic mimics of marble or granite with consistent, uniform looks (no natural variation issues). As a disadvantage, quartz does have a higher upfront cost than most countertops, and it offers only moderate heat resistance (use trivets for hot pans). Natural Stone Granite—A longtime classic that still ranks high in homeowner requests, granite offers authentic natural beauty. It is highly durable with excellent heat and scratch resistance—perfect for serious cooks. Granite has unique patterns and colors in every slab for one-of-a-kind character and increased resale value. Among premium stone countertops, granite is relatively budget-friendly and easy to care for once sealed. Professional installation is required for the large, heavy slabs. As far as maintenance, granite is a porous stone that requires periodic sealing (every 1–2 years) to prevent stains. The stone’s natural variations can make matching slabs challenging. Quartzite—Quartzite has surged in popularity as a premium upgrade, often described as a tougher, marble-like alternative, even harder than granite in many cases, with superior scratch and heat resistance. Quartzite has natural veining that closely resembles high-end marble but performs better. Quartzite is an upscale material with premium pricing due to a limited availability of desirable slabs. It does require sealing (though less frequently than marble or some granites) and can still etch or stain from strong acids if not properly maintained. Marble—Marble remains a favorite for its timeless, luxurious appeal. However, marble is soft and prone to stains, scratches and etching (from acids like lemon, wine, or vinegar). It requires frequent sealing, careful maintenance, and is not ideal for heavy use or family kitchens. It has a high cost but low durability and is heat sensitive (so use trivets). Butcher Block Butcher block has long been a favorite for wood’s warmth and sustainability, especially in farmhouse or mixed-material designs. It is affordable, renewable and repairable. Scratches and damage can often be sanded and refinished. Butcher block countertops can be installed by a skilled DIY’er, and they are customizable in wood type, finish and edge details. Butcher block does requires regular maintenance (oiling/sealing) to prevent drying, warping, or water damage, and the surface is susceptible to scratches, stains, and heat (knives and hot pots leave marks). Porcelain (Sintered Stone Slabs) Porcelain slabs (and related sintered stone) have risen in popularity as a high-performance, modern alternative. These countertops offer outstanding durability—highly resistant to heat, scratches, stains, and chemicals, and they’re non-porous with virtually zero maintenance (no sealing needed). Lightweight and thin profiles can allow creative installations (such as waterfalls and large spans). Porcelain slabs are a higher-end option with premium pricing, and installation requires precision and skilled fabricators. Some finishes can feel more “industrial” than natural stone. Relativa is the latest line of porcelain surfaces inspired by natural stones from Opustone. Solid Surface Sold under brand names like Corian, solid-surface is a non-porous, durable, and seamless material that is easy to clean and repair, though it is less heat-resistant than stone. With professional installation, joints become almost invisible, allowing for smooth, integrated sinks and backsplashes. Available in sheets which can be built up to desired thickness, solid surface can also be molded and bent into various shapes to fit custom designs. Scratches, burns, and dents can be sanded out or repaired, restoring the original look. Being non-porous, solid-surface countertops are easy to clean and resist stains, bacteria, and mold. Solid surface is often more affordable than quartz or granite while offering a high-end look.  Solid surface, however, has poor heat resistance. Use trivets, because hot pots and pans can cause discoloration, scorching, or cracking. The material is softer than natural stone, meaning it scratches easily, particularly in glossy finishes. Harsh chemicals like paint thinners or oven cleaners can damage the surface, and these countertops do not add as much value to a home compared to quartz or granite.  Laminate Developed by Formica, laminate is a cost-effective and low-maintenance option available in numerous colors and patterns. Widely available at home centers, these lightweight countertops can often be installed by homeowners without professional help. The surface is non-porous and does not require sealing, oiling, or special cleaners. These countertops are easy to clean with soap and water. Laminate is highly resistant to staining from common household substances, although it is prone to scratching and burns, and can be harder to repair. Note that laminate countertops do not add significant value to a home, and some buyers may view them as a cheaper, less durable option. Choosing the Right Countertop Each countertop material excels in different scenarios. Prioritize low maintenance and versatility? Go with quartz or porcelain. Looking for warmth and affordability? Butcher block is a good option. When choosing a countertop, consider factors like your cooking habits, household traffic and budget (for both material and installation). Many homeowners even mix materials—quartz for main counters and butcher block or marble for islands—to get the best of multiple worlds. Ultimately, the “best” countertop is the one that matches your daily life while delivering the look you love. With quartz leading the pack and porcelain rising fast, today’s choices offer more performance and style than ever before. Consult a local fabricator for samples and current pricing to find your perfect match. Shown here is the marble-like detail of the new Mamba countertop from Neolith.

By Daine Patton Most people don’t think about bats until they already have a problem. And by the time you’re hearing scratching in the walls or noticing activity in the attic, they’ve usually been there longer than you think. That’s just the reality of it. Bats don’t need a big hole to get inside, and they’re really good at finding the small stuff most people would never notice. That’s why prevention matters. Because if you can catch it early, or better yet stop it before it ever starts, you save yourself a lot of stress, time, and money. Bats are not trying to cause problems. They’re just looking for a safe place to live. Your home gives them exactly what they want. Warmth, protection, and a lot of small gaps around the roofline that make it easy to get inside. Here’s something most homeowners don’t realize. A bat can get through a gap about the size of a dime. That’s it. So when someone says their house looks tight, that doesn’t really mean much unless you’ve actually gone through it the right way. We also see bat intrusion pick up during certain times of the year. Maternity season is a big one. Bats are looking for a safe place to raise their young, and once they find it, they tend to come back to that same spot year after year. Problem Areas Here’s what we see all the time. Most of your problem areas are going to be up around the roofline. Soffits, fascia, and anywhere materials meet or change. Those transition points are where gaps happen, and those gaps are what bats take advantage of. Ridge vents are another big one. From the ground, they can look completely fine. You get up there and find they’re wavy, separated, or just worn out enough to let bats in. The same thing applies with roof vents and gable vents. They might look good from a distance, but when you get close, you start finding gaps around the edges or areas that were never sealed properly in the first place. One area that gets missed all the time is underneath the drip edge along the gutters. We find gaps behind there on a regular basis. You don’t see it unless you’re on a ladder and actually looking for it, and sometimes you even need a mirror to check it right. We see this every week. A house looks completely fine from the ground, but when you get up there and take a closer look, there are multiple entry points that have probably been there since the house was built. Prevention for Homeowners You don’t need to be climbing all over your roof, but there are some things you can keep an eye on as a homeowner. Start simple and walk around your house. Pay attention to your roofline, soffits, and vents. If you see something that doesn’t sit tight or looks like a gap, don’t ignore it. Look for staining too. Bats will leave rub marks where they’re going in and out, and it’s usually a darker discoloration around an opening. Another sign is droppings. If you start seeing small piles below a section of your roofline or near siding, that’s a sign something is using that area. Inside the house, listen. Especially around dusk or early morning. If you’re hearing movement in the attic or walls during those times, that’s a clue. It’s also a good idea to keep your trees trimmed back away from the house. It doesn’t solve everything, but it helps reduce access. These things won’t replace a full inspection, but they can help you catch something before it turns into a bigger issue. Importance of Inspection This is where people get it wrong. A lot of homeowners try to fix this themselves, and I understand why. But using spray foam, basic sealants, or trying to patch one hole might feel like you’re solving the problem, but most of the time you’re not. Those materials don’t hold up, and more importantly, you’re usually not addressing the full issue. And if bats are already inside and you just seal the hole, now you’ve trapped them in the house. That turns a manageable situation into a much bigger one. Timing matters too. During maternity season, you can’t just seal everything up because the young bats can’t leave yet. That’s where you have to know what you’re doing and understand how to handle it properly. If you want to do this the right way, it starts with a full inspection—not part of the house; the whole thing. Every side, every transition point, every potential entry area. From there, you identify all the entry points, not just the obvious one, because it’s almost never just one. If bats are active, you install one-way devices so they can get out safely. Then, once everything is clear, you go back and seal everything properly. And when I say properly, I mean using the right materials, not shortcuts. That’s where things like custom metal work, proper vent covers, and high-grade sealants come into play. Materials that are built to last and actually hold up over time. Because if you don’t do it right the first time, you’re going to be doing it again. We have these conversations with homeowners every single day. A lot of this comes down to awareness, paying attention to your home, catching things early, and not ignoring small gaps. But if bats do become an active issue, this is one of those situations where it makes sense to bring in a professional who does this every day and stands behind their work. At the end of the day, what people really want is peace of mind. They want to know it’s handled and not something they’re going to deal with again. And that comes from doing it right. -- about the author Daine Patton , Founder & CEO of Bats to Rats , built his Nebraska-based company into a trusted leader in ethical wildlife control. A National Wildlife Expo  speaker and BBB Torch Award winner, he is known for permanent exclusion solutions, family-first leadership, and advocating for higher standards across the pest and wildlife industry.

A concrete slab is one of the most basic components of modern construction throughout the world. Whether used as a building foundation, sidewalk, patio, or a footing for an exterior stairway, the construction is generally accomplished by the same method. Small home projects can be handled by a do-it-yourselfer, but fair warning for DIY'ers: Mixing and pouring concrete requires a lot of physical labor. Concrete is very heavy, and a slab can require a lot of the stuff—more than you might expect. Although you can mix small quantities with a shovel in a wheelbarrow, you might consider renting a concrete mixer even for small footing slabs such as the one constructed in this article. And for large projects such as driveways or sidewalks, the HIR staff recommends you hire a reputable concrete contractor. Step 1: Mark the perimeter of the slab location with stakes and string. Step 2: Calculate the total depth of the finished slab, including the concrete and the gravel base. Concrete is typically applied at a minimum of two inches, but we recommend a thickness of at least 4 inches for more durability. With this type of application, both a fine and coarse aggregate are required. You can find ready-mix bags of concrete available at home centers and hardware stores. Step 3: Dig a level excavation to the depth and dimensions of your slab, plus room for the forming boards (2x4 or 2x6, depending on the depth of the slab). Step 4: Compact the dirt bed with a hand tamper. The first base layer will consist of 5 inches of gravel (about 4 inches after compaction) followed by the concrete pour (at least another 4 inches). Shovel the gravel into the excavation and compact the gravel down to a 4-inch depth with a tamper. Step 5: Build a concrete form using treated 2x lumber. Pros often use duplex nails to build the form, which are easy to pry out after the slab cures, but for a low-profile form like this, heavy-duty screws will work. The concrete form should frame the perimeter that you marked with the stakes and string. Depending on the application, the form may not necessarily have to be level, but it should always slope slightly away from any structure so that it can shed water away from it. Step 6: Anchor the form in place by driving wood stakes into the ground along its outer edge every 12 to 18 inches and screwing the stakes into the frame. These hold the forms securely so they don’t bow or blow out when filled with the heavy concrete. With the stakes in place, cut the tops flush with the form, so you can use a screed board once the concrete is added. Step 7: Reinforce the slab with wire mesh or a grid of rebar. The wire or rebar grid should be elevated on blocks or metal brackets called "rebar chairs" that float the reinforcement about midway deep in the concrete forms (not on the bottom). Cut the metal with a grinder or a chop saw. Overlap the mesh/rebar 6 to 12 inches and tie the rebar intersections with wire. Step 8: Mix up some concrete and then fill the form. Work one bucket at a time or just rent a concrete mixer. Spray the form and the gravel with water when adding the concrete. Work quickly—concrete starts setting in 30–60 minutes (faster in heat). Keep the entire work area damp throughout the installation of the concrete so the surroundings don’t leach moisture out of the concrete before it has properly cured. Step 9: When the mix reaches the top of the forms, strike off the excess concrete even with the top by screeding it with a very straight 2 x 4. Move the edge of the screed board in a side-to-side motion across the upper edge of the form to create an even slab. Step 10: Use a wood float in a circular motion to work the heavy aggregate below the concrete surface and bring the “cream” to the top. To give more traction to the top of the slab, roughen the surface with a broom as the concrete cures. Step 11: Allow the concrete to cure for a few days more before walking or building on top of it. Keep the slab covered in plastic to retain moisture longer for a slow, solid cure. Concrete slabs can be used for shed foundations, sidewalks, patios, or footings for exterior stairways,   TO MAKE A JOINT Large slabs, such as sidewalks and driveways, require expansion joints to prevent cracking. A jointer tool held against a straight edge will produce a nice, straight-line groove in the slab surface. Control joints are normally spaced at intervals that are equal to the width of the pour. However, you should avoid exceeding 10 feet in any direction without a joint. The joint should be cut to at least one-fourth of the depth of the slab. Control joints in large slabs can also be cut after the concrete cures, using a masonry blade in a circular saw or concrete saw after is had dried.   CURE YOUR CONCRETE Concrete doesn’t get its strength from drying, but from curing. According to the experts at the Sakrete company, “Curing is the action taken to maintain moisture and temperature conditions in freshly placed cement mixes, allowing the cement to thoroughly hydrate.” This is done by misting the concrete, placing wet covers such as burlap on the concrete, or by coating with a product such as Cure ‘N Seal. Curing is necessary for the concrete to have its desired properties. Rapid loss of water from the surface of the concrete will cause the top of the slab to cure faster than the bottom. This can happen during periods of high temperature or wind. If the concrete cures at different rates, the slab can develop cracks. -- Editor's note: A version of this article appeared in The Quick & Easy Home DIY Manual by Matt Weber.

By Chris Kushmaul In spring, the most important thing is to look for evidence of water movement, not just obvious staining. By the time a ceiling spot or a warped baseboard is visible, moisture has often already migrated through multiple assemblies. Homeowners and restoration teams should pay close attention to subtle paint film failure, drywall nail pops, slight trim separation, faint shadowing at wall-to-ceiling transitions, and minor cupping of the flooring (or seasonal lift near exterior walls). In basements and crawlspaces, efflorescence, rusting at column bases, darkened sill plates, damp insulation, and musty but intermittent odor patterns are often earlier indicators than active dripping. On the mechanical side, sump pumps should be tested under load, not just powered on. A pump that hums but fails to evacuate quickly, short-cycles, backflows, or discharges too close to the foundation is an early warning that the house may be one heavy rain away from a moisture event. A good spring inspection also extends outside. Many “hidden interior water damage” cases are really site-drainage failures presenting indoors. Look for downspout discharge points that terminate too close to the home, negative grading, settled backfill at the foundation perimeter, splash blocks buried in mulch, and hardscape pitched toward the structure. If exterior bulk water isn’t being moved away decisively, the home is effectively under repeat moisture loading even when the interior still looks acceptable.   Where Hidden Damage is Most Likely To Linger After Winter The highest-risk zones are usually the ones where water can enter slowly, travel laterally, and stay trapped. That starts with the roof assembly: beneath shingles with minor wind loss, around flashing transitions, at plumbing vent boots, chimney intersections, skylights, valleys, and eaves affected by ice damming. Even when interior finishes look clean, moisture may be sitting in roof decking, underlayment, insulation, or top plates. The next major category is the foundation and lower building envelope. Basements, crawlspaces, rim joists, sill plates, and the lower portions of finished walls are especially vulnerable because spring thaw and rain increase subsurface moisture and hydrostatic pressure. Hidden damage often develops behind stored contents or finished basement walls, where concrete wall seepage, capillary wicking, and condensation can go unnoticed. If a sump system is undersized, poorly maintained, or discharging back toward the house, those areas are even more exposed. Finally, don’t overlook attics, attached garages, and transition zones. Attics can conceal low-level roof leakage and winter condensation from poor air sealing or ventilation imbalance. Garages often reveal slab-edge moisture issues, door threshold failures, and wall-base deterioration first. Transition areas—such as where porch roofs tie into walls, where additions meet the original structure, or where masonry meets wood framing— are disproportionately likely to hide post-winter damage because they combine movement, complex flashing, and drainage discontinuities.   How Small Issues Escalate Into Major Restoration Problems Small defects become major losses because buildings rarely fail all at once; they fail through repeated wetting and cumulative assembly degradation. A hairline crack in a foundation wall, a slightly displaced shingle, or a marginal flashing gap may not let in much water during one event. But spring introduces a sequence of rain events, saturated soils, thermal movement, and elevated humidity. That means the same tiny defect can be loaded again and again until moisture bypasses the drying capacity of the assembly. Once that happens, the problem escalates beyond “a little water.” In below-grade conditions, a small crack can become a pathway for hydrostatic seepage, wetting insulation, flooring, and framing while elevating ambient humidity enough to affect adjacent spaces. At the roof, minor damage can wet decking and fasteners, then drive wood decay, corrosion, insulation collapse, reduced R-value, and hidden microbial growth. Around windows or wall penetrations, repeated wetting can deteriorate sheathing, rot framing, delaminate trim substrates, and weaken fastener holding power long before the interior finish clearly telegraphs the issue. The real cost increase comes from scope expansion. What begins as a localized exterior repair often becomes a multi-trade restoration involving demolition, drying, mold control, structural carpentry, insulation replacement, and finish reconstruction. That is why restoration professionals stress early correction of water-management defects: the cheapest repair is almost always the one made before moisture enters an assembly repeatedly.   Common Mistakes to Avoid When Dealing With Post-Winter Damage The most common mistake is treating symptoms instead of the water pathway. People repaint stains, patch drywall, or run a dehumidifier without asking why the moisture was present in the first place. In spring, the root cause is often exterior: clogged gutters, poor downspout extensions, negative grade, failed flashing, or an under-performing sump discharge strategy. If exterior water is not being moved away from the foundation and the envelope transitions are not shedding properly, interior repairs are often temporary. Another major mistake is underestimating “minor” moisture findings. A damp basement corner, a single lifted shingle tab, or a faint musty smell is often dismissed because it doesn’t look like an emergency. But in restoration, low-visibility moisture is exactly what creates the larger losses: concealed rot, insulation damage, chronic humidity, and repeated wetting cycles. People also commonly fail to test systems functionally. For example, they assume a sump pump is fine because it has power, but never verify float operation, discharge performance, check valve function, basin cleanliness, backup power readiness, or whether the discharge point is actually carrying water far enough away from the structure. A third mistake is skipping a whole-property maintenance plan. Spring prep should not be a one-off reaction after snowmelt; it should be a repeatable inspection cycle. The strongest approach is to build a checklist that includes roof and flashing review, gutter cleaning, downspout extension verification, grading checks, foundation crack monitoring, sump pump testing, window and door sealant review, attic moisture assessment, and basement/crawlspace humidity tracking. Homes that perform well over time usually do so because someone is paying attention to water management systematically, not because the house never had vulnerabilities. -- Editor’s Note: Chris Kushmaul   is a Restoration 1  franchise owner and restoration expert.

By Brett Katsma Outdoor structures have become one of the most sought-after upgrades in residential construction, as a way to economically expand living space and enjoy the outdoors. Whether it's a new deck, pergola or shed, homeowners are investing more in upgrading their backyards. For builders, remodelers and contractors, this means that every element—from lumber selection to fasteners—needs to provide durability, strength and long-term performance. Advancements in fasteners have been driven by changes to thread designs, user-experience features like torque reduction coatings, or even the development of application-specific fasteners, all which help differentiate engineered fasteners from typical commodity ones. Engineered fasteners offer a variety of benefits to reduce labor, improve efficiency and deliver stronger connections. Designed not only to eliminate time-consuming pre-drilling , but able also to handle the power and torque that today’s impact drivers are generating without recesses rounding out.  Not all structural engineered fasteners are recommended to be used with impact drivers. Engineered fasteners are tested and designed to offer the highest withdrawal and pull-through values and deliver superior clamping force, all to save labor and ensure reliable connections. Anything built outdoors will face regular exposure to moisture, rot, insects, and sun/UV rays, so every material, including the fasteners, must be able to stand up to environmental wear. In lumber applications, a corroded fastener can even deteriorate the wood by allowing moisture infiltration. For building in harsh environments, engineered fasteners resist corrosion thanks to advanced coatings and materials that meet or exceed the minimum acceptable criteria for being call an “exterior coating.” In addition to coatings, premium engineered fasteners offer the option of creating an attractive contrast and on-trend look with black fasteners. This look started with the modern industrial and farmhouse style in building and architecture, and extends to the fastener category. Black fasteners provide a more polished, modern appearance for a more finished, upscale look. Deck Substructures Whether it’s new construction, repair or replacement, deck building offers steady demand for pros. But improper construction or outdated fastening methods can result in hidden failure points. According to the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA), there are more than 60 million decks in the U.S. today, but over 30 million are past their useful life or in need of repair. Properly installed engineered fasteners help maintain safety and prevent failures, call-backs and bad reviews. NADRA also provides a Deck Safety Checklist , a helpful tool for both professionals and homeowners to evaluate existing decks and identify potential safety concerns. The ledger connection is one of the most important structural details in a deck build, essential to connecting the deck to the house. When inferior fasteners corrode, the results may not be immediately visible, but over time, they can compromise the stability of the ledger-to-house connection. Choosing structural wood-to-wood fasteners   with corrosion-resistant coatings helps ensure critical connections hold firm through seasons of exposure to weather, movement and load. Engineered fasteners are often set apart from commodity fasteners with deck-ledger specific reports to support proper spacing that help builders and contractors meet the code requirements for the critical connection.  In many cases, using a stronger, engineered screw for ledgers also means fewer fasteners are required overall, resulting in faster installation and reduced labor without compromising code compliance or durability. Sheds for Storage or Outdoor Living Sheds today are more than storage, becoming everything from home offices to gyms to livable accessory dwelling units (ADU). And, she- or he-sheds have also become more popular. These trends offer contractors another valuable opportunity to meet the demand for covered outdoor living spaces. They also allow homeowners to expand their usable living space without building an addition on their home. Just like the home itself, these spaces need to ensure safe building connections, something premium fasteners can provide. Any load-bearing assemblies, such as truss and multi-ply beams, demand engineered fasteners. Always look for fasteners with technical evaluation reports (TERs) that provide spacing guidance and visuals along with documented strength and code compliance for the best possible results. Installing large structural sawn lumber or LVL can be difficult, so having no predrilling requirements, even on large-diameter screws, along with quick driving thread designs will ease the installation effort. Lumber isn’t always straight, which can cause headaches during the finishing stages of the project. Engineered fasteners will have the strength to pull stubborn boards tight and clamp together bowed or twisted boards, helping eliminate gaps or future movement. In truss-to-top plate applications, certain engineered fasteners can even replace traditional hurricane ties, stream-lining installation while offering greater resistance to uplift. Unlike nails, which may misfire or fail to seat correctly, these screws help ensure consistency and quality throughout the structure. They're also easier to remove to make any adjustments during the framing portion of the project. For visible exterior work, engineered screws can contribute to a more refined final look with a multitude of head styles in trending colors. The no-split tips help minimize splintering or movement over trim, improving the aesthetic finish on trim and framing details, which matters more than ever to discerning homeowners. Pergolas and Gazebos Pergolas, gazebos and similar open-air structures require the same attention to structural integrity as their enclosed counterparts. Although they may not have fully enclosed walls, open-air structures still demand solid, long-lasting connections around the trusses, rafters, beams and roofing. The open design of pergolas and gazebos leaves joints more susceptible to wind uplift. Installing professional-grade structural screws  helps keep critical connections secure, especially where structural components intersect, like the beam-to-rafter or post-to-footing connections. The fasteners need to resist movement moving through these critical connections. Engineered fasteners with high performance values, found in their third-party reports, could eliminate the need for costly additional reinforcement. For installers, it means faster assembly that meets code; for homeowners, it means safer longer-lasting outdoor living spaces. With more homeowners investing in backyard upgrades, using better fasteners helps ensure you deliver projects that stand up to weather and daily use. Your builds are only as strong as their weakest connection, and that connection often comes down to the fasteners you choose. Using cheap fasteners might save pennies today but could cost thousands in repairs or reputational damage down the line. From premature corrosion to structural failure, low-quality fasteners can quietly undermine the quality of your project. On the other hand, premium screws reduce installation time, hold more securely, and provide lasting resistance to the elements. By specifying and using high-performance fasteners, you’re not just building structures, you’re building safer homes, better experiences and long-term peace of mind. -- About the author: Brett Katsma has a project engineering background and has been a Product Manager with SPAX for four years.

Is your wallpaper looking a little outdated? When it's time to upgrade the wallpaper or give the room a new coat of paint, it's always a good idea to first remove the old wallpaper. To remove wallpaper, first look for any loose seams or corners to peel away large sections of paper by hand. Use a drop cloth to catch the debris. However, the paper rarely comes off the wall completely when pulling by hand. To remove the remaining paper without damaging the wall surface, you need to weaken the chemical bond of the glue. You have two options: Use a liquid wallpaper stripper or use a steam-powered stripper.  Before employing either method, use a perforation tool to abrade the paper, cutting tiny holes in the surface which will soak up the liquid. The perforation tool, sold at most hardware stores, is a palm-sized handle with wheeled spurs that perforate the paper. You can also score the paper with a utility knife in a criss-cross pattern with 6-inch spacing. Score all areas where wallpaper is still adhered.   When using a chemical stripper, mix the liquid with hot water, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a paint roller or spray bottle to apply it to the perforated paper. Wait ten minutes for the stripper to weaken the glue, then peel off as much wallpaper as you can with your hands. For the remaining paper, use a 3-inch scraper at a shallow angle to remove it without nicking the drywall.   A steam-cleaning machine heats water to more than 200 degrees to apply steam through a hose. A plate at the end of the hose plate collects the steam over a targeted area. Hold the steam plate flat against the wallpaper for 10 seconds. The steam will heat and dampen the paper, which loosens the glue and makes it easy to remove with a scraper. After removing the wallpaper, use fresh water and a sponge to thoroughly wash and rinse the wall to remove glue residue before priming and painting. -- Editor's Note: A version of this article appeared in The Quick & Easy Home DIY Manual by Matt Weber.

As spring rolls in, a tried-and-true method to jump-start a healthy lawn is to aerate and over-seed the yard. Aeration fights thatch and soil compaction. Over time, built-up thatch and tightly packed soil can choke off nutrients from the grass. More than 3/4 inch of accumulated thatch can lead to lawn disease, insect infestation and ultimately drought. Soil compaction, due to traffic, rain and erosion, can do the same. An aerator is a machine that minimizes compaction by thinning the tightly packed soil while also removing built-up thatch. In lawn maintenance, aerating literally means “to supply with air," allowing air, water, and nutrients to enter the soil and nourish the lawn. Aeration should be done after the lawn has been mowed down to about 2 inches high. The most effective type of aerator is a “core” aerator, which uses hollow tines to remove “cores” or plugs of soil, leaving them laying on the lawn’s surface to return nutrients to the grass as they dissolve. Many homeowner-type aerators use spikes that simply poke holes in the soil, but these types aren’t quite as efficient. Available at rental outlets, aerators are available as walk-behind or ride-on gas models, while other versions can be towed as an attachment behind a lawn tractor. Agri-Fab 45-0299 48" Tow Behind Lawn Plug Aerator with Universal Hitch; Designed to Pull Behind Lawn & Garden Tractors Keep in mind that core aeration should only be done to correct problems of soil compaction and thatch buildup. It’s a great way to revive an unkempt lawn early in the season, prior to fertilizing, but shouldn’t be a part of routine maintenance.