by Matt Weber Here is one “how to” story you will only find at Home Improvement & Repairs because it features my own personal design for building rustic concealment shelves. I love creative construction like hidden doors, secret passages, and concealed spaces. One popular item in my neck of the woods is a “concealment shelf,” which is a wall shelf that contains a small storage compartment to hide your secret candy stash, priceless jewelry, deadly weapons, classified documents, top secret microfiche, or anything else that will fit. However, concealment shelves have grown so popular that they are now mass produced and marketed with internet advertisements. It strikes me that the problem with promoting the same model concealment shelf to everyone on the internet is that it will become easily recognizable by many people. If everyone recognizes your shelf as “one of those shelves that hides things” then its purpose has been defeated. The shelves available for purchase usually feature classic cabinet-type construction which looks unnecessarily boxy for the style of shelf (because it hides a storage box). Furthermore, upon close inspection, certain models even have visible seams where the storage compartment opens. This might be a dead giveaway to anyone snooping around. My Solution I wanted a shelf that nobody would ever suspect hid anything, and one with no visible seam to give away the storage compartment. I was already familiar with how to make rustic floating mantles that mimic the look of solid timber beams, so I modified the “faux beam” design. I invented an internal hidden storage compartment which would replace the mounting bracket of the floating mantle. By replacing the hidden bracket with the compartment, the only “seam” would be the unavoidable joint between the mantle and the wall. It took me many attempts of trial and error to determine the correct measurements for a shelf that would fit easily inside the mantles, maintain structural integrity and carrying capacity, and could be securely mounted against a stud wall. At last, I arrived at a successful design and applied it to three shelf sizes that fit 4x8, 4x10 and 6x10 floating mantles. People seemed to like the concept. I used to make these as custom orders and ship them to states across the U.S.A. I am now ready to share the building plans with the fine readers and woodworkers of this magazine. Note that this is a moderately challenging carpentry project but not beyond the reach of a skilled DIY woodworker. It does, however, require a table saw to rip the boards to size. Other useful tools include a dado set for the table saw, a miter saw, a finish nail gun, and a drill-driver. The Rustic Mantle The visible shelf to this project is a “faux beam” style often used for mantles. This mantle is essentially a five-sided rectangular box built from 1x lumber in which the boards’ seams are beveled at 45 degrees to help conceal the edge joints. I recommend using a softwood species such as pine to make it easier to distress the wood for a rustic style, which helps to hide its construction and give it a convincing solid-beam appearance. Choose straight, flat boards without bows or warps. The boards are joined along the beveled edges with finish nails and wood glue, and we provide a detailed tutorial on building the rustic mantles on our blog. Be sure to maintain at least 2-3/16 inches between the top and bottom mantle boards for easy functionality of the hidden shelves. I recommend building the mantle at least 22 inches long, because the hidden shelves are designed to be mounted into two wall studs. A 22-inch mantle allows the inner shelf to be built long enough to cross the studs. The “faux beam” mantles that conceal our shelves are built from pine and finished with a highly distressed, textured appearance to help conceal the carpentry and look like solid timber. Read our step-by-step tutorial on building the mantles . The convincing nature of this project relies a great deal on the construction and finishing of the rustic mantle. Use clamps to assemble very tight joints to look like believable “solid” corners. Use a variety of tools such as pipes, hammers and screwdriver shanks to close the wood fibers around all seams and joints. Use a stainable wood filler for any remaining gaps and to conceal nail holes. Chains, nuts and washers can be used to impact the surface to impart random, variegated texture for a weathered timber appearance. Important: Note that the rear of the mantle box that faces the wall is left hollow with no board enclosing it. For better shelf functionality, I recommend cutting a 45-degree bevel along the rear edge of the bottom board. Do not, however, cut a bevel on the rear edge of the top board, because the top edge must remain square to interlock the mantle and hidden shelf with a Velcro strip. The bevel on the bottom board allows easier interface with the interior shelf whenever enclosing it. Hidden Shelf to Fit 4X Mantles Refer to the labeled photos for the specific cut sizes of the hidden shelf components. I do not recommend altering the height or depth of the shelves. The measurements are intended to maximize storage space inside a 4x8 or 4x10 mantle. Note that for all hidden shelves, the lengths may vary, but I recommend keeping the shelves at least 1-1/2 inches shorter than the interior dimensions of the mantle to ensure an easy fit. To ensure a sturdy storage shelf, you need a strong frame, a reliable shelf floor that will not detach when weight is applied, and secure mounting to the wall. Essentially, the hidden shelves consist of a rear mounting board, two side boards, a plywood floor, plus a thinner non-structural board at the front. The side boards mount to each end the rear board with half-lap joints. This type of woodworking joint provides a large surface area for glue and fasteners. I cut the joints on a table saw using a dado set, but you can also cut them with a table saw blade or router by carefully marking the center of the board, adjusting the blade height, and making successive cuts to remove the wood. Apply high-quality wood glue to all mating surfaces of the joint and fasten with countersunk screws from the top of the side boards. I also recommend driving a Fine Screw (thin trim screw) from the sides into the rear board to strengthen the connection. This glue-fortified, cross-grain fastening method is substantially stronger than driving screws into the end-grain of a board. Use clamps to keep the frame flat and square as the glue dries. Once the frame has dried, a rectangular plywood floor (1/4 inch thick) should be cut to fit flush with the sides and rear board. Fasten it to the bottom of the frame with glue and screws. Next, the front board should be cut large enough to fit flush over the shelf, concealing the fronts of the side-boards as well as the edge of the floor. Before assembling the shelf, apply your choice of wood stain to all components. Attach the floor to the shelf frame by applying wood glue along all points of contact and driving 1-inch drywall screws through the plywood every 6 to 8 inches. Do not attach the front board of the hidden shelf until it has been mounted to a wall. Longer shelves, 36 to 46 inches, should be built with a center cross-rail to maintain structural integrity. This middle cross-rail is made from the same board stock as the sides but is cut square on each end to fit flush between the rear and front boards. When adding any internal cross-rails, I recommend countersinking a 5- to 6-inch screw (depending on shelf depth) through the back rail and down the length of the cross-rail. Apply high-quality wood glue to all joints when assembling and screw it from below. Also, note that the cross-rail does not have to be located in the exact center of the shelf. It’s a good idea to hold the shelf against the wall at its mounting location to mark the studs on the shelf. The location of the cross-rail can be adjusted to the left or right to avoid interfering with mounting the shelf into the studs. Hidden Shelf to Fit 6X10 Mantles After designing shelves for 4X mantles, I got ambitious. What if I wanted to hide something larger? Refer to the labeled photos for specific cut sizes of the hidden shelf components of my largest design—the 6x10. The basics of construction remain essentially the same, only built with larger boards and larger fasteners. However, I was determined to eliminate the center divider with this larger model, yet I needed to maintain even more carrying capacity than with the smaller ones. My solution came in the form of right-angle metal brackets. Instead of a center divider, I installed two 6-inch, L-shaped brackets to strengthen the shelf. These brackets were mortised into the rear board and helped to support the floor (which was made from 1/2-inch solid wood). I traced the shape of their mounting flanges against the rear board and used a router to cut the mortises. This can also be accomplished with the careful use of a wood chisel. The brackets are screwed onto the rear shelf board when the floor is installed. A pair of these metal brackets are rated for a 100-pound load capacity. The floor should also be fastened at the ends by driving predrilled finish nails through the sides and into the edge of the 1/2-inch board. Mounting the Shelves Use a stud finder to locate and mark the wall studs at the height and location where you want to hang the shelf. Note: You should mount the hidden shelf 3/4 inch lower than the final height of your mantle shelf. Align the hidden shelf against the wall and mark the stud locations on its rear board. With the shelf on your workbench, pre-drill and start the mounting screws at the stud locations but do not yet drill them through the rear board. To mount the shelves, I recommend using structural construction screws at each stud location; 4-inch screws for the 4X shelves, and 5-inch screws for the 6X10 shelf. Align the shelf against the wall and drive one screw through the rear and into a stud (not too tightly yet). Level the shelf then drive in the remaining screws into the studs, snugging the shelf tightly against the wall. Drive a screw through each end of the front board, fastening it to the ends of the side boards. The front should cover the edge of the floor. Apply mating adhesive Velcro inside the center of the mantle top and along the top of the rear shelf board. Limit the Velcro strips to about one-fourth the length of the rear board; otherwise it may be difficult to separate the mantle from the hidden shelf. The Velcro completes the installation, and the mantle can now be placed over the shelf to conceal it. To access the hidden shelf, lift the mantle at one corner to detach the Velcro strips. Pull the mantle away from the wall and set it aside to access the hidden shelf. SIDE NOTE Optional Upgrade Building the box-type mantle shelves is a common woodworking design, but I have never been satisfied with enclosing the ends with a cutoff board. A solid beam of timber would have circular tree rings on its ends, not the linear grain of a board. To really sell the look of a solid beam that “nobody would ever suspect” conceals an interior shelf, I carve circular tree rings into the boards that enclose my rustic shelves, then stain everything to match. This method is particularly convincing when working with dark stains. Back when I was making and selling these mantles to customers, I devised a circular carving tool from a modified orbital sander to carve the “tree rings” into the end caps. A DIY’er can accomplish a similar wood-grain pattern using a sharp carving tool and circle-shaped guides of varying sizes.

Here is a look at some handy new tools we've been putting to use on a variety of projects this fall. -- M. Weber Dust Deputy Low-Pro Lid Separator At 4 inches tall, the Dust Deputy Low-Pro is Oneida Air Systems’ most compact separator, able to fit underneath a workbench and in other tight spaces. Uniquely designed to offer up to 50 percent more airflow (CFM) and allow debris to pass through unobstructed—two common limitations of other lid-style separators—the anti-static Dust Deputy Low-Pro excels in its ability to collect a variety of materials, from wood dust to trash, and more. Like the original Dust Deputy cyclone, the new Dust Deputy Low-Pro pre-separates up to 99.9 percent of dust and debris before it reaches your vacuum's filter, eliminating clogging and suction loss while extending the life of your filter. Made from clear, durable resin and designed for vacuums with 2.5-inch hoses, the Low-Pro lid separator attaches to any standard 5-gallon bucket with included latches. The deluxe kit includes a clear collapse-proof 5-gallon dust bucket, free-rotating caster wheels with on-board accessory storage, two elbows, and a 2x3-inch wire-reinforced vacuum connection hose. This is the third type of Dust Deputy kit we have reviewed over the years, and this model not only performs as advertised, but it’s much easier to store with its compact design, and it’s easier to move around with an improved caster system. Made in the USA, the Low-Pro Dust Deputy is a high-quality and affordable dust-mitigation system for woodworkers, handymen, and DIY’ers of all types. It connects to your existing shop vacuum and works with nearly any type of material; wood dust, drywall dust, concrete dust, clay/silica dust, blasting soda, metal shavings, cooled ash and more. www.oneida-air.com Bosch GTS18V-08N14 Professional Table Saw A professional-grade table saw in a small, portable package, the ProFactor GTS18V-08N14 Professional Table Saw delivers the power of a corded table saw plugged in at the workshop with true mobility. This is the first contractor-capacity table saw that is compact and lighweight enough by hand. There is not need for a mobile cart; just set it up on any available flat work surface. I carry it with two hands, but it's built with a single-handle design. The Biturbo Brushless Technology includes a high-performance motor and drive-train system engineered to take full advantage of the additional power generated by Core18V batteries, delivering a powerful 5,500 rpm with corded-like performance. The fence allows for easy adjustments with a rack-and-pinion dial, without having to tap it into place. The table top features an ample 25-inch ripping capacity right of the blade while being able to tackle 2x materials. The on-tool storage holds the rip fence, miter gauge, Smart Guard System and push stick. Restart protection helps prevent accidental tool startup when switching batteries, overload protection reduces the risk of the motor overloading or overheating, soft-start technology reduces startup torque to ease into the workpiece, and the blade safety features include an easy-to-use modular blade guard, anti-kickback pawls, and a riving-knife system. This portable table saw is backed by a five-year warranty and is part of the AMPShare battery system designed to be multi-brand compatible across many cordless. www.boschtools.com Bosch GDR18V-215N Professional Impact Driver Bosch is known for high-quality pro-grade tools and the company’s new 18V cordless lineup is engineered to impress. The new GDR18V Impact Driver has a powerful, brushless motor that delivers up to 1,900 in-lbs. of torque and 3,800 impacts. That’s a lot of muscle for such a lightweight, compact design—only 4.9 inches of head length. The tool features two speed/torque settings and a 1/4-inch quick-change hex driver. It offers easy touch-button access to modes, speed-settings, tool-status feedback and LED light control. It’s covered by a a five-year limited warranty, and the AMPShare battery system is designed to be multi-brand compatible across many cordless. www.boschtools.com Bosch GSB18V-65N Professional 1/2” Hammer Drill/Driver The trend in power tools has long been the pursuit of more power in a smaller package, and the compact new Bosch GSB18V-65N professional hammer-drill/driver delivers 575 in-lbs. of maximum torque. Features include KickBack Control to reduces the risk of sudden rotational torque reaction in a bind-up scenario, plus a Rapid Mode Selector to swiftly shift between hammering, drilling and driving modes without the need to adjust the clutch. Dual LED work-lights illuminate the working area for better visibility, and two speed settings optimize the tool for high-speed and high-torque applications. The tool is built with an allmetal chuck and has 20 clutch settings. A member of the AMPShare battery system, this pro-grade hammer-drill is covered by a five-year limited warranty and is engineered for driving fasteners or drilling holes in wood, masonry and more. w ww.boschtools.com Metabo HPT 18V 15-GA Angled Finish Nailer, NT1865DAA I ordered the new 15-gauge Metabo HPT 18V Angled Finish Nailer for an upcoming ceiling project but I could not resist unboxing to use on some window trim I had been working on. The NT1865DAA features Air Spring Drive Technology to feel and perform more like a pneumatic, it is 13-percent lighter (5.9 lbs. without battery), smaller, and more powerful. You can now flush drive 15-GA finish nails up to 2-1/2 inches into all finish materials including hardwoods and fiber cement trim. I have followed the evolution of cordless nailer technology for 25 years, and although the tools varied in performance, I can vouch that this one offers all the power and reliability of a high-quality pneumatic gun. The new narrow tip design allows for work in tight corners. It can drive up to 700 nails per charge with the included 18V 2.0Ah battery with fuel gauge. As part of the expanding MultiVolt System from Metabo HPT, you can choose the lightweight 18V batteries or a MultiVolt battery, which powers both 18V and 36V tools, effectively doubling your runtime with up to 8.0Ah per charge. www.metabo-hpt.com Scrigit Scraper The Scrigit is an inexpensive, pen-sized, non-scratch cleaning device that provides a quick and convenient way to remove small amounts of unwanted substances from household and automotive surfaces, edges, and grooves where a metal scraper would scratch or damage the work surface. It can be used instead of fingernails and metal tools to quickly clean off small areas of unwanted substances, such as grime, caulk, putty, wax, latex paint, dried food, adhesive stickers, labels and tape. The flat-edged tip is best for getting into tight spaces and cleaning off unwanted materials from flat surfaces, edges, corners and door tracks. For woodworking projects, however, I use it as a small putty knife for filling nail holes. The small blade size scoops less putty so it applies less putty around the nail hole, which reduces cleanup and conserves product. Plus, the flat resin blade won’t scratch or gouge wood the way a metal blade can do. Two sizes are available made in the USA of a durable plastic resin that easily washes clean and won’t conduct electricity. www.scrigit-scraper.com

By Sean Comerford Threaded pipe joints may seem straightforward, but leaks are almost guaranteed without the right thread sealant and proper technique. Whether swapping out a shower head, connecting a water heater, or repairing gas lines, knowing when and how to use thread sealants can save time, prevent leaks, and avoid costly damage. In this guide, we’ll discuss key principles of thread sealants: options, how they work, why threads fail, application tips, and how to choose the proper sealant for your job. What Every Skilled DIY'er Should Know Thread sealants come in various forms, each suited to specific materials, system pressures, and environmental conditions. You'll find an extensive range of NSF-approved thread sealants that are safe for potable water and engineered to meet rigorous performance standards. Pipe Joint Compounds Pipe joint compounds (also known as pipe dope) offer reliable sealing with formulations suited for different materials and temperatures. Note that all compounds from Oatey and Hercules, excluding Hercules Brush-on Block, are NSF-certified, ensuring safety for drinking water systems. Popular options include: ●        Hard Set formulations like  Hercules Grrip : This thread sealant sets up quickly and dries to form a very tough, yet flexible seal, replacing the need for a traditional gasket and making it ideal for systems requiring flat, metal-to-metal connections. ●        Soft Set  formulations like Oatey Great Blue Pipe Joint Compound : This compound is a non-separating thread sealant formulated to seal threaded connections on metal and plastic pipe up to 2 inches in diameter. Its uniform, smooth consistency allows easy application on lines carrying water, natural gas (except oxygen), steam, air lines, caustics, and dilute acids. ●        PTFE-based formulations like Hercules Real Tuff use a unique system of fine-grain PTFE particles to fill cracks and thread imperfections. Designed for high-pressure applications, this smooth-setting sealant forms durable, leak-free seals so that joints can be tested and put into service immediately. Used on lines carrying water, steam, caustics, and dilute acids, it is compatible with all metals plus PVC, CPVC, and ABS plastics. ●        FBC ™  approved  (third party tested) products like  Oatey Great White Pipe Joint Compound With PTFE . These sealants are safe for CPVC systems (e.g., FlowGuard ® , BlazeMaster ® , Corzan ® ). Thread Sealant Tape Teflon tape is a chemically inert, flexible film wrapped around male threads to help fill the gaps between threads and prevent leaks. It’s clean, quick to apply, and ideal for smaller-diameter fittings or when a mess-free solution is needed. Thread tapes are distinguished by color, thickness, density, and width. Each is optimized for specific applications: White tape : General-purpose, three mil thick, high-density, and compatible with most pipe materials. It can be used with plastic, copper, aluminum, galvanized steel, or black iron piping. Pink tape : Full-density, suitable for air, water, sewage, and hydraulic systems up to 1-1/2 inches. Yellow tape : 3.5 mil thick, ideal for natural gas piping. Local municipalities may require specific colors for each application to ensure proper identification. For added versatility, Hercules Megatape is a standout: High-density, 3.5 mil thick. Resists tearing on harder, sharper threads. Available in gray, a more aesthetically pleasing choice for chrome/nickel fixtures. Offered in standard and extra-large spools. While both types of thread sealant are effective, the choice depends on fixture type, thread size, material compatibility, and personal preference. Pro Tip:  For fittings 1-1/4-inch and larger under pressure, using both types together—tape first, followed by compound—is recommended for a more secure seal. Ultimately, using either or both depends on the specific demands of the job. Combining them can provide added security. How Thread Sealants Work And Why They Fail Most plumbing threads follow the NPT (National Pipe Thread) standard. These threads are tapered, which means the male and female parts wedge together as they tighten. In theory, that taper should create the seal. In practice, imperfections and roughness in the threads leave pathways for leaks. Sealants fill those gaps and compact into the threads as the joint is tightened. Causes of sealant failure may include: Bad threads:  Corroded or chipped threads create leak paths. Application of new sealant can sometimes salvage old fittings when replacement isn’t practical (like inside walls). Insufficient or incorrect application: Using too little compound, brushing with the threads instead of against them, or wrapping tape counterclockwise can all compromise the seal. Overuse of tape:  More isn’t always better. Too many wraps can stress female fittings, sometimes causing hairline cracks that appear months or years later. Incompatible materials or contents: Certain compounds can weaken plastics such as CPVC or deteriorate when exposed to oils, chemicals or fuels. When to Use Thread Sealant Thread sealants play a critical role in various household plumbing applications where threaded joints connect fittings and components. A sealant is almost certainly required in typical home settings.   DIY repair involves water lines or drains with threaded connections, especially in older homes with galvanized or cast iron pipes. Common examples include: Threaded shower arms Water valves for toilets and dishwashers Where a pipe exits a wall Users frequently apply a light coating for added security even when dealing with compression fittings, which technically don’t need sealant. Always use thread sealant on any threaded connection without a built-in gasket, washer, or O-ring . Even when washers are present, plumbers often still apply sealant for extra protection. Outdoor plumbing fixtures like hose bibs and splitters may also benefit from sealant use in installations lacking rubber washers. In warmer regions where outdoor plumbing is more common, such as California, you might encounter threaded joints on external tankless water heaters or supply control valves. Gas, steam, or high-pressure threaded systems are also suitable applications. There are exceptions  where sealant should not be used: Female threads : NPT threads are tapered; any sealant applied here will get pushed into the system during assembly. Push-fit or compression fittings : These seal mechanically. While plumbers sometimes apply a light coat out of habit, it isn’t necessary. Fixtures with manufacturer restrictions : For example, flush valves or certain ice maker lines may specify no tape/dope, since material could break loose and clog components. Systems carrying incompatible chemicals : Always verify against product submittal sheets. Choosing the Right Thread Sealant The proper thread sealant is key to ensuring safe, leak-free, and long-lasting connections. The right product depends on system temperature, pressure, material compatibility, and fluid or gas type. Safety is paramount in potable water systems. To prevent contamination, only NSF/ANSI 61-certified sealants should be used. Soft-set sealants are preferred for water systems due to their flexibility and ease of disassembly. Megaloc is a versatile, user-friendly option compatible with CPVC piping. Sealants must tolerate extreme conditions in steam or high-pressure applications. Megaloc with DuPont ™ Kevlar is rated from -50°F to 400°F and can handle pressures up to 2,600 pounds per square inch (PSI) for gas and 12,000 PSI for liquids. It stays flexible without cracking and remains brushable even in cold weather down to -25°F. Material compatibility is also critical. Thread tapes can be used with nearly all pipe types, while compounds are approved for materials like aluminum, copper, brass, stainless steel, galvanized and black iron, PVC, CPVC, polyethylene, polypropylene, and even glass. However, not all compounds work with every fluid or gas. Always check chemical compatibility, using manufacturer submittal sheets—especially for natural gas, propane, glycol, heating oils, and acids. Some systems require FBC ™ -approved products, particularly CPVC-based piping like FlowGuard ® , BlazeMaster ® , and Corzan ® . Oatey Great White and Hercules Pro Dope are both FBC-approved and safe for long-term CPVC use. Professionals often use thread sealant tape and compound for added security in larger or high-stress systems. Oatey recommends this dual method for pipe sizes 1-1/4-inch and above. When selecting tape, keep in mind: Width : Available in 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch. Thickness : Thicker tapes (e.g., 3.5 mil) reduce wrap count. Density : Higher density minimizes stretch and leak risk. Hercules Megatape is a high-performance option with superior strength and aesthetics—particularly useful on chrome or nickel fixtures. Ultimately, the right sealant ensures jobsite efficiency, code compliance, and long-term peace of mind. Always refer to the manufacturer’s technical sheets for the best match to your application. 7 Tips To Apply Thread Sealants Like A Pro 1.       Wrap clockwise : Always apply thread sealant tape in a clockwise direction when facing the male threads because wrapping counterclockwise will unravel when tightening. 2.       Three to five wraps are enough : Adjust based on tape density (fewer wraps for thicker products like Megatape ™ ). 3.       Leave the last thread bare : This prevents sealant from being pushed into the system, where it could clog aerators or filters. 4.       Brush compound against the threads : This forces sealant into the thread roots instead of skimming the surface. 5.       Apply only to male threads . Female threads rely on taper fit, and adding compound there can interfere with sealing. 6.       Avoid over-tightening : Compounds act as lubricants, making overtightening a risk. Tighten firmly but not excessively. 7.       Consider temperature : Most compounds apply fine to 20°F, but Megaloc remains workable to -25°F for cold-weather repairs. Final Takeaway Thread sealants aren’t just an afterthought. They’re the difference between a dry, reliable system and a hidden leak waiting to surface. For DIY'ers, knowing the basics of how sealants work, choosing the right product, and applying it correctly makes every repair safer and more durable. Stick to NSF- and FBC-approved products, match sealant type to the job, and remember: Less is often more. -- About the author:  Sean Comerford is Manager, Inside Sales and Tech Support at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

by Courtney Klosterman Houses can make many noises, and knowing how to identify them is important for any homeowner. Sounds can indicate that there’s an issue with the health of your house and can range from benign noises to potential issues that require immediate attention.   Here are 14 house-settling noises homeowners should know, their possible meanings, and the steps homeowners should take to address them effectively.   1. Creaking floors or stairs Creaking floors and stairs can result from the natural expansion and contraction of wooden materials due to temperature and humidity changes as well as the shifting of the house's foundation over time. Actions to take:  Check for signs of pest infestation and damage or shifting in support beams. Apply appropriate lubricants to wooden joints to minimize friction and noise. Tighten any loose nails or screws contributing to the noise. Muffle creaky sounds with rugs or carpets.   2. Popping or cracking noises Popping or cracking sounds can arise from the expansion and contraction of building materials due to temperature changes. These noises are generally harmless and often more noticeable during temperature fluctuations. Common areas where these sounds are emitted include basements, attics, or the first floor. Actions to take:  While most sounds of popping and cracking require no immediate action, you should periodically inspect your home for any visible signs of damage. Document any new cracks, shifts, or irregularities related to the noises. Keeping your home at a relatively stable temperature can help minimize the frequency of these noises.   3. Hissing or running water sounds Hissing or running water sounds can indicate leaks or plumbing issues within walls or floors. Water damage can quickly become costly if not acted on quickly. Actions to take:  Inspect exposed fixtures, pipes and joints for signs of moisture or corrosion. Watch for any unusual increases in water usage either on your water utility bill or water meter that could indicate a problem. If there are any spikes in water usage or signs of pipe corrosion, contact a plumber.   4. Loud banging or clanking noises Loud banging or clanking sounds are alarming and can indicate problems with your HVAC systems or pipes. These sounds should not be ignored, but there are situations where banging noises are normal. For example, people in duplexes or apartment buildings can hear loud banging noises when “water hammer” occurs. This scenario can happen in shared plumbing systems between units when there is a sudden and abrupt stop or change in the flow of water, which results in loud banging or thumping noises in pipes. Actions to take:  If the noises are coming from your HVAC system or pipes, turn off the HVAC system or water supply to prevent worsening the problem. Objects near your HVAC system or pipes can rattle and create noises. Ensure that everything is secure from vibration and not causing disturbance. If the noises are related to plumbing, check for exposed pipes that might knock against surfaces due to water pressure changes.   5. Gurgling or cracking noises Gurgling or cracking sounds can come from the plumbing system and indicate water-flow or air issues in the pipes. Catching plumbing issues quickly can be tough since pipes are typically hidden behind walls. However, it’s important to take action quickly as these sounds could lead to system damage if left unaddressed. Actions to Take:  Pay close attention to the areas where the noises are most noticeable. Determine which fixtures, drains, or pipes are producing the sounds and check for blockages. Inspect sinks, toilets, and drains for clogs or blockages. Sometimes, gurgling noises can indicate slow drainage due to debris buildup. Look for water backflow. If you notice water backing up or draining slowly in sinks, showers, or toilets, you may have a plumbing issue. Contact a plumber is you cannot unclog the problem, or if the noises are not limited to a single fixture or area but affect multiple fixtures, drains, or pipes throughout your home.   6. Whistling noises near windows and doors Whistling noises around windows and doors can come from drafts or gaps in the ceiling. These disruptive sounds impact comfort and air conditioning and heating efficiency which can lead to increases in utility bill costs. Actions to take: Inspect the windows and doors, paying close attention to the frames, sashes, and weatherstripping. Look for any visible gaps or areas where the sealing might be compromised. Worn-out or damaged weatherstripping can allow air to enter, causing whistling sounds. Use appropriate sealing materials such as new weatherstripping, caulk, or door sweeps to seal gaps and prevent drafts. A simple way to check for drafts around windows and doors is to move a candle around the edges to observe if the flame flickers.    7. High-pitched ringing or buzzing High-pitched ringing or buzzing sounds can indicate electrical issues such as loose wiring or a malfunctioning electrical component. These noises can lead to safety hazards if left unaddressed, increasing the possibility of house fires. Actions to take:  Turn off circuit breakers. Immediately turn off the circuit breaker associated with the area where the noise is heard. This precautionary step can prevent electrical accidents or fires. Carefully inspect the area for visible signs of electrical issues such as flickering lights, burn marks, or damaged outlets. Seek professional help if you're not experienced in handling electrical problems and want to ensure safety.   8. Gurgling noises in drains Gurgling noises from drains can indicate poor drainage, venting issues, or larger plumbing problems within a plumbing system. Coverage for water backup isn’t always covered by homeowners insurance and can be costly to cover without appropriate coverage. Actions to take:  Determine which drains are producing the gurgling noises. Check sinks, showers, toilets, and other plumbing fixtures for visible blockages and debris. Slow drainage or standing water can cause gurgling. Poor plumbing ventilation can lead to gurgling. Check the vents on your roof or exterior walls for potential blockages. If a minor blockage is causing the noise, use a plunger to try and clear it. Contact a plumber if the problem persists, multiple drains or fixtures are gurgling simultaneously, or you suspect ventilation issues or complex plumbing problems.   9. Rattling or vibrating in ductwork Rattling or vibrating noises from your HVAC ductwork can be caused by loose components or debris. These noises can impact indoor comfort and HVAC system efficiency. On average, a new HVAC unit can cost $2,500 - $5,000. However, before considering a costly replacement, you should address the source of the noise issue. Actions to take:  Inspect visible sections of the HVAC ductwork for loose components, gaps, or debris. Secure loose connections using appropriate fasteners. Look for any areas where the ducts might be contacting other surfaces and clear any debris, dust, or foreign objects that might rattling or vibrating.   10. Screeching dryer vent Screeching sounds from the dryer vent can signal issues with its belt or components. Homeowners should address these sounds before they could lead to dryer inefficiency or malfunction. Not only that, fire hazards from dryer vent issues are a serious concern. Lint buildup and reduced airflow in the dryer vent can cause the dryer to overheat, potentially igniting lint and leading to a fire. Actions to take: Immediately turn off the dryer and unplug it from the power source to prevent further damage or accidents. Inspect the rollers and bearings around the dryer interior where you place your clothes. Lubricate the moving parts. For most dryers, these components can wear out over time and cause screeching noises. Carefully examine the dryer belt for wear, fraying, or damage. A damaged dryer belt can cause screeching during operation. Clean your dryer vent duct. Regular cleaning can help protect your home and continue the safe operation of your dryer. If the dryer is damaged, refer to its troubleshooting manual or consider hiring a repair technician.   11. Cracking sounds in the fireplace Cracking sounds in the fireplace happen as it heats and cools. However, persistent cracking sounds may require chimney inspection and maintenance. Common chimney hazards caused by cracking sounds include temperature fluctuations and structural integrity issues. Metal flue liners, the protective channels or tubes inside the chimney and firebox, contract and expand with temperature changes, creating a cracking noise. This is usually normal and not disruptively loud, unlike structural integrity issues which usually produce loud cracking noises, with louder cracking indicating larger damage. Structural integrity issues such as collapsing chimney masonry will likely produce loud disruptive noises, but to assess these issues accurately, we suggest seeking professional help like a certified chimney sweep. Actions to take:  Check the firebox (the part of the fireplace where the fires come out from) and chimney interior for any signs of cracks. If there are no cracks yet noise persists, it’s likely due to normal temperature fluctiations. Narrow hairline cracks between bricks and stones can be handled easily with sealants, but larger structural damages, such as cracks and gaps increasing in size or leaning structures, should be handled by professionals.   12. Squeaking doors or hinges Squeaking doors and hinges can be annoying and can be due to friction or lack of lubrication. Actions to take:  Locate the specific hinges causing the squeaking noises. Open and close the door to pinpoint the source. Apply a lubricant, such as silicone-based or WD-40, to the hinges. Open the door several times to allow the lubricant to work into the hinges. Tighten any loose screws to ensure the hinges are secure.   13. Scratching, rustling, or thumping in the walls or attic Scratching, rustling, or thumping sounds in the walls or attic can be due to the presence of insects or animals. If unaddressed, these issues can lead to more significant repair problems, such as damage to insulation, electrical wiring, and structural components of your home. Insects and animals can settle within your home’s insulation which can impact temperature regulation. They can also gnaw at electrical wiring which leads to short-circuits, electrical malfunctions and fires. Actions to take:  Pay close attention to the sounds and try to identify their location and frequency. Investigate the area wearing the appropriate protective gear. Check for any visible openings or gaps in walls, roofs, or foundations where animals or other insects might be entering. Seal off any entry points and apply appropriate pest-control measures, or call a professional.   14. Scratching in your gutters Scratching sounds in your gutters can be due to small animals seeking shelter such as squirrels or chipmunks. While not always harmful, it's important to ensure that your gutter system remains functional. Damage to your gutters can create a ripple effect of potential problems, from water leaking into the siding of the home, roof or foundation. Actions to take:  Inspect your gutters from a safe vantage point to determine if there's any signs of animal activity. If you identify debris in your gutters, safely remove it using gloves and appropriate tools. Installing mesh downspout covers can help prevent entry of pests. Homes produce many house-settling noises, and understanding what they mean can make the difference between a lasting home or one with serious issues. With the right knowledge, homeowners can take the initiative to help preserve their homes. Various types of mesh downspout covers can be installed into the inlets and over the outlets of downspouts to prevent debris accumulation and pest intrusion.   Editor's Note:  Courtney Klosterman is Home Insights Expert at Hippo , a company focused on delivering proactive home protection.

You do not need a large yard to have a nice swimming pool. According to the National Association of Home Builders, the share of smaller home lots has reached an all-time high, while interest in merging the outdoor and indoor living space is on the rise. In response to this trend, pools designed to match the size of the living space are gaining popularity. As fall begins, so does the season for planning a pool. Here are some of the latest options to consider.   Astoria 12 The new Astoria 12, a 12x28-ft. fiberglass pool/spa combination from Latham Group, Inc. , delivers a variety of features in a compact footprint. “The Astoria 12 brings the full experience of our most popular fiberglass pool model to homeowners with limited outdoor space,” says Scott Rajeski, president and CEO of Latham. “With an integrated spa, tanning ledge and swim-up seating, it’s proof that you don’t need a big backyard to enjoy a feature-rich, luxurious pool.” Inspired by Latham’s top-selling pool design, the Astoria 12  integrates several key elements, including: Built-in Spa:  6’6” x 5’11” interior for year-round relaxation Tanning Ledge:  3’11” x 7” with 12” water depth for lounging and sunbathing Swim-Up Benches:  Two deep-end benches and one shallow-end bench, all with 20” water depth Champagne Wall:  A stylish built-in ledge perfect for holding drinks while relaxing Gradual Slope:  Depth transitions from 3’6” to 5’7”, offering both play and plunge zones Safety Ledge:  Built-in from shallow to deep end for peace of mind  The Astoria 12 is available in a range of colors and finishes ,  and all models come auto-cover ready and are backed by a lifetime warranty.    Plunge Pools   Blending form with function, the Latham Plunge Pools Collection   provides practical and stylish solutions that are ideal for compact yards but also add a luxurious touch to larger spaces as well. Offering both fiberglass and vinyl liner options, the curated collection includes six sleek, elegant pool designs that fit seamlessly into any outdoor space. These fun-sized pools offer full-sized fun with greater convenience, faster and more affordable installation, energy efficiency and easy maintenance with less chemical usage. The launch features two fiberglass models and four vinyl liner configurations. Latham Plunge Pools can be personalized with options like tanning ledges, full-width benches, integrated swim-up seating, bubblers, cascades, LED lighting, autocovers and more.    With faster installations and lower energy and chemical usage, Latham Plunge Pools offer an affordable, eco-friendly choice for any backyard.     Fiberglass Pools  There are four new additions to the Latham Grand collection of full-sized  fiberglass pools , offering innovative features, versatile designs and customizable options to meet the diverse needs of today’s homeowners.   Ariel 16  – Boasting three entry points and a tanning ledge spacious enough for two loungers, this versatile and feature-rich option is a 13’ 10” x 32’ rectangle pool with a full-width tanning ledge and graduated steps leading to a soaking area ranging from 3’ 6” to 6’ 1” deep.   Apollo 14  – Offering a sleek, modern European aesthetic with clean lines and a gradual slope, Ariel 16 is a 15’ 10” x 40’ rectangle model with a half-width tanning ledge, full-length bench seat, and a soaking area ranging in depth from 3’ 6” to 7’ 4”.   Astoria 14  – Featuring a 4+ person integrated spa, Astoria 14 is a sophisticated 14’ x 35’ rectangular design with a half-width tanning ledge and soaking area ranging from 3’ 6” to 6’ 6” deep.   Coral 16   – Designed to fit a beachy aesthetic, Coral 16 is a freeform design measuring 15’ 10” x 30’ 10” with a built-in tanning ledge, curved graduated steps, a deep-end bench seating area, and a soaking area ranging from 3’6” to 6’ 11” in depth.      TrueStone Collection   Integrate the look of natural elements with the new TrueStone Collection . This elevated selection of stone-inspired vinyl liner designs offers installers and homeowners the ability to achieve the upscale look of natural limestone or sandstone without the need for a stone mason. Additionally, the mix-and-match patterns can be seamed together using Latham’s proprietary Ultra-Seam technology, combined to create truly customized looks.   Homeowners can choose from seven accent designs—ranging from slate and flagstone to pearlized mosaics and shimmer stones—and pair them with a wide array of classic Latham liner designs. The collection also includes color-coordinated main drains, skimmer covers and eyeball fittings for a completely cohesive and finished look.     SIDE NOTE MeasureGO: Cool Tool for Pool Pros Latham has now launched MeasureGO—a new mobile app designed to make professional-grade pool cover measuring more accessible than ever. Available as a free download to its customers, the patented MeasureGO app offers a offers a simple, digital approach to measuring pools for safety covers. The app leverages Apple’s native LiDAR Scanner (available in the iPhone Pro) to capture millions of measurement points to create a project point map. The user then walks around the pool selecting key points to define the pool’s perimeter and anchor points. “MeasureGO is an ideal solution for builders looking to gain a competitive edge,” says Will Cappiello, product director at Latham. “It offers a seamless, end-to-end measuring experience, from measurement to installation, with little to no upfront investment.” Like the flagship system, now renamed MeasurePRO, which focuses on more complex covers and inground liners, the new MeasureGO app reduces the need for multi-person crews at a pool site, allowing a single technician to capture precise measurements. Builders can simply upload the project/data to Latham’s Builder Management Portal, enabling real-time drawings, accuracy verification, and streamlined quote and order processing. In addition to streamlining the measuring process, Measure helps dealers process orders faster—cutting manufacturing timelines from weeks to days. For more information about MeasureGO or MeasurePRO, visit www.lathampool.com/measure .

A new herringbone flooring option from Bjelin offers easy click-together installation. Parquet is a style of wood flooring made of narrow strips glued together to form a geometric pattern. It has a classic, decorative look that can add flair to interior rooms. Popular parquet flooring patterns include herringbone, basket-weave, inlaid squares and more. Although it is true that you can install it yourself with the right tools and materials, many DIY'ers shy away from this particular flooring installation because of all the work involved. With traditional methods, layout requires careful attention to detail, and to secure the floor, you need wood adhesive. Assembly takes a long time because of all the small, individual planks, and cutting the border planks can get tricky, particularly in rooms that are out of square. Traditional parquet flooring installation requires gluing the planks with wood adhesive. To make installation easier, the Bjelin company from Sweden has now introduced a durable herringbone floor designed with click-together technology. Not only does eliminating the glue speed up installation, but so does the size of the planks. At 3.5-in. by 21.5 in., these panels surpass most traditional engineered herringbone sizes, offering a modern feel. And, as every flooring installer knows, larger planks equate to fewer planks needed, which results in quicker project completion. The flooring is also protected with Woodura technology for improved impact resistance and and to strengthen the superior 5G floor-locking solution at the interlocking joints. The flooring can be installed in multiple patterns, from traditional herringbone, double, triple, ladder, and blocks. Made with responsibly sourced Croatian oak, this collection also comes pre-finished in Misty White, Natural, and Earth Grey, saving homeowners the time, hassle and expense of staining and sealing their new floor. You can find more about the new click-together herringbone flooring at www.bjelin.com . Image courtesy of Bjelin

image © Trex This summer, house designers, builders and remodelers have been hearing buzzwords like “outdoor wellness” and “biophilic design.” These are essentially fancy terms to describe the characteristics of a deck, porch or patio that integrates with the yard and outdoor amenities. Organic design elements like natural lighting and greenery combined with outdoor hot tubs and backyard kitchens are blending together once-separate living spaces and presenting a new way for homeowners to invest in their property. Seamless Segues from Inside Out   Look for the lines between indoors and outside to continue blurring to the point of being virtually indistinguishable. Homeowners are increasingly seeking innovative ways to create seamless transitions that dissolve the boundaries between indoor comfort and outdoor enjoyment. Picture sleek glass doors gliding open to reveal a deck adorned with plush seating, cozy rugs and soft accent lighting—all the warmth of an indoor living room, brought outside.  “When indoor and outdoor spaces flow effortlessly, a home feels more harmonious,” explains Adam Zambanini, COO of Trex Company . “It’s no coincidence that our latest decking offerings closely mimic the look and feel of indoor flooring. Featuring nature-inspired hues and subtle graining, these looks offer the visual continuity and elevated style that today’s homeowners are seeking.”   Another way to extend indoor comfort outdoors is with the addition of a deck drainage system, such as RainEscape from Trex. Designed to divert rain and snow melt away from a deck, this system keeps the space beneath an elevated deck dry and usable. This allows for furnishings, lighting, appliances and electronics to be added to create a patio area with all the comfort and function of an interior room.   Climate-friendly Features   As climate resilience becomes a top priority, outdoor areas are being designed to withstand every season and adapt to a wide range of con-ditions. Homeowners want solutions that offer a year-round balance of comfort, durability, ease and style to ensure these spaces remain practical and inviting.   A recent development in the decking realm is the integration of heat-mitigating features into boards to keep the deck surface cooler than standard composite boards of a similar color. Innovations such as Trex’s SunComfortable technology are leading the way. Available in the brand’s Transcend Lineage and Enhance decking lines, these boards are designed to make lounging and entertaining more enjoyable.   image © Trex Trex composite decking is also ideal for use near water. From poolside decks to docks and marinas, its ultra-durable, weather-resistant surface can withstand decades of high tides, sand, cannonball splashes and sunscreen without losing its luster. Just an occasional soap-and-water cleaning is all that’s needed to keep it looking like-new.  “People want outdoor spaces that adapt effortlessly to their needs, no matter the climate, setting or season,” notes Zambanini. “Our Performance-Engineered products offer the ability to enjoy the outdoors in comfort and style, whether you live along the salty coast, high up in snow-capped mountains or in the heat of the desert.”   Cozy and Curated   Homeowners are embracing the charm of smaller, purposefully designed outdoor spaces that cater to specific activities like dining, socializing or unwinding. Rather than vast, open areas, they’re opting for well-defined zones that feel cozy and inviting. Level changes, pergolas and privacy screens are among the many ways builders are incorporating definition and architectural interest into outdoor spaces. image © Trex Deck railings also play a pivotal role. Beyond safety, railings are a crucial design element that provides the frame to a backyard masterpiece. Sleek black-on-black railings continue to be a favorite choice for their modern, minimalist aesthetic, while cable railing and glass panels are ideal for optimizing views.    Merging Comfort with Convenience   Technology is revolutionizing everything at home and the backyard is no exception. With smart features designed for both ease and entertainment, today’s outdoor retreats rival the sophistication of any indoor living area. High-tech products like app-controlled outdoor lighting, weatherproof audio and entertainment components, automated irrigation and smart security systems enhance comfort, safety and peace of mind, while features like built-in USB ports, wireless charging stations and outdoor Wi-Fi hotspots ensure your backyard stays connected, whether you’re streaming a movie or tackling a work deadline in the outdoor office. Once considered indulgences, these additions are now more accessible than ever, making them essential elements for any backyard.   image © Trex Harmonizing Sustainability and Serenity    In an increasingly fast-paced world, decks and patios are becoming personal sanctuaries that promote wellness and foster a connection to the natural world. From lush gardens to yoga platforms and tranquil water features, these serene retreats provide the perfect escape for relaxation and rejuvenation.   Sustainability is at the forefront of this transformation, as more and more homeowners seek to create spaces that are as kind to the planet as they are to the soul. Elements like eco-friendly decking made from recycled and reclaimed materials, energy-efficient lighting, rainwater harvesting systems and the use of native plants not only reduce environmental impact but cultivate spaces that feel in harmony with nature.   image © Trex Outdoor spaces will continue to transform and evolve, inspiring connection, relaxation and creativity. Whether a sprawling multi-level deck where every corner offers a new experience, a tranquil retreat by the water or a secluded garden sanctuary alive with greenery, the possibilities are limitless. SIDE NOTE 1 Lawn Rehabilitation After Summer Summertime barbecues, yard games, and holiday celebrations can take a toll on your lawn with all the extra foot traffic. A little extra TLC can keep your grass greener longer. After the festivities, restore a healthy, vibrant lawn by first clearing away any leftover decorations, trash, food scraps or debris that can smother grass and hinder growth. Next, apply a recovery fertilizer rich in essential micronutrients like iron, manganese and sulfur. “All purpose” fertilizers such as Pennington Ironite All-Purpose Lawn Fertilize r or Safer Brand Lawn Restore All-Purpose Lawn Fertilizer help strengthen grass and support healthy growth, especially during the high-stress heat of summer. Another option is to repair damaged lawns with new grass seed. Ryegrass, both annual and perennial, can be a good option for lawns, but its suitability depends on the desired lawn characteristics and the local climate. In very hot and dry conditions, it may struggle to survive. Perennial ryegrass is a cool-season grass that's known for quick germination and establishment, making it suitable for overseeding lawns or establishing new ones. Annual ryegrass is a short-lived option, often used for temporary ground cover or to add winter color to dormant warm-season lawns.  A newer alternative is to incorporate grass seeds like Scotts EZ Grass Spot Repair Mix to repair damaged or thinning spots by encouraging new growth. This product is a combination of high-performance grass seed, premium continuous-release lawn food, and a super-absorbent growing material, which makes it possible for grass to grow anywhere, guaranteed (subject to proper care.) For areas suffering from compacted soil due to heavy foot traffic, consider aerating to improve airflow and nutrient absorption. You can usually find lawn aerators available at equipment rental outlets, since aeration is an occasional task for lawn maintenance rather than a regular chore. Complete the rehabilitation of your lawn by making sure it is adequately rehydrated. Water deeply in the early morning to help roots recover and thrive in the summer heat. SIDE NOTE 2 Clay Pavers in Outdoor Designs Available in a range of styles and natural earth tones, clay pavers are a popular build-ing material for today’s outdoor spaces. Beyond aesthetic appeal, clay pavers are highly durable and able to withstand heavy foot traffic while maintaining their vibrancy for decades, making them an ideal choice for high-traffic areas. Whether arranged in a traditional running bond layout or an intricate basketweave, clay pavers create an inviting path that seamlessly ties the exterior of the home together. Clay pavers bring a sense of charm to driveways and walkways with rich hues, timeless character and flexible design possibilities. Clay pavers are also a standout choice for patios and porches, seamlessly blending with various architectural styles and landscapes through their natural beauty, enduring strength and textured finish. When used as pool decks, clay pavers’ naturally textured surfaces offer slip resistance, making them a safe option for wet areas, while their superior permeability promotes efficient drainage, reducing the risk of standing water, erosion and waterlogging. To create a truly immersive outdoor living experience, consider incorporating clay pavers into accent features like fire pits, outdoor fireplaces, built-in grills or even a pizza oven. These luxurious additions transform the backyard into a multifunctional haven complete with a blend of interior and exterior elements. The natural tones and organic textures of brick are perfect for these integrated areas, creating seamless design cohesion between indoors and out. — Denise Smith, senior marketing manager at Glen-Gery. SIDE NOTE 3 New Outdoor Design Tool The new Outdoor Design Tool for Kindred Outdoors + Surrounds is an interactive visualizer that helps users imagine, design and plan custom outdoor living spaces with ease. Whether building new or enhancing an existing area, the tool provides an intuitive, hands-on experience to explore products, experiment with layouts and make confident design decisions. The new Outdoor Design Tool is an immersive platform that allows homeowners, contractors and landscape architects to create detailed outdoor designs, starting with a layout and then customizing with Kindred’s easy-to-install solutions. Users can incorporate a wide range of products, including Signature Kitchens, outdoor cabinets, fire bowls, fireplaces and fire pits, available in multiple finishes and colors. Designs can be further customized with a curated selection of architectural stone veneer, cooking appliances like grills and ovens, as well as lighting, flooring, furniture, plants and more to create a realistic and fully imagined space.  Explore the Kindred Outdoor Design Tool at mykindredliving.steps3d.net .

Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at many of the different topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. Should a DIY’er begin welding by learning with MIG or TIG? answer: Most professionals consider TIG (tungsten inert gas) to be the “elite” of all welding processes, because a TIG weld is typically stronger, neater, and easier to control than with other processes. However, a TIG unit can be the most expensive of all welders, so a DIY’er should consider how much they’ll be using the machine before investing. Although a TIG setup works with a torch (electrode) to melt a welding rod with pinpoint accuracy, MIG (metal inert gas) welds utilize a wire-feed system. These machines are easy to learn but hard to master. For $300, a DIY’er can pick up a MIG welder from the home center, plug into a 110-volt outlet and begin welding immediately. These are great for building a grill or shop equipment. The MIG gun feeds flux-cored welding wire into the weld, and the weld begins as soon as you squeeze the trigger. However, all the smoke and sparks impede visibility and can make it difficult to achieve a truly clean weld. How do I fasten to a hollow door? I would like to install a mirror on the door, but there is no wood inside to hold the screws for the brackets. There’s not much solid wood in a hollow-core interior door, so screws will tear out of the door if any weight is applied to them. To mount items such as mirrors, pictures, hooks, etc. to the door, you need to use special fasteners specifically labeled as "hollow door anchors."You will find a couple of different versions available, including threaded metal anchors meant to screw into the door with a screwdriver, and these anchors will hold the screws that mount your item. Another version of "hollow door anchors"uses plastic anchors that fold flat to fit inside a pilot hole drilled into the door. Once they are inserted, a small key is used to open the plastic anchor, which spreads out interior brackets inside the door to clamp the collar of the anchor against the door face, like a toggle-bolt. The screw is then driven into the anchor until tight. Both versions work well. Should concrete screws used in a brick wall be driven into the brick or the mortar joint? Concrete screws such as Tapcons are suitable for use in a variety of base material, including brick and the mortar joints between the brick. The holding value of the screw depends on the brick itself and the quality (and quantity) of mortar in the joint. As you’ve probably noticed on old buildings, mortar tends to deteriorate faster than brick, and if you see any signs of such deterioration, then you’ll probably get a stronger hold from the brick. Concrete screws require a pilot hole made with a hammer-drill and a masonry bit sized specifically for the diameter screw you’ve chosen. Drill the hole a half inch deeper than the length of the screw and use a wire brush, compressed air, or a vacuum to clean the hole of brick dust before driving in the concrete screw. What is the easiest way to cut sheet metal? “Aviation snips” (AKA tin snips) with compound leverage can cut sheet metal up to 18 gauge. Note that snips are designed for cutting either to the left, to the right, or straight, and a novice user will usually get the most versatility from the straight snips. A metal nibbler can often cut sheet metal up to 1/8-in. thick, depending on material, and some of these tools are sold as attachments that fit onto an electric drill. For straight cuts, a metal-cutting circular saw blade with a high teeth-per-inch count works well. Electric metal shears are another option for the pro who often works with sheet metal. How do I remove scratches from a stainless-steel appliance? You should be able to remove light scratches with a non-abrasive, stainless-steel scratch-remover compound, which can smooth out the surface to remove minor damage. This product is sold under brand names such as Rolite Metal Polish Paste and 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound. Use microfiber cloths to apply and remove the compound. Deeper scratches can usually be removed with an abrasive pad and a small amount of cooking oil. You’ll need a scouring pad or scrubbing sponge, plus some cooking oil (olive oil works), but this only works with uncoated stainless steel—not if it’s coated by a protective coating. It’s also important to understand that, similar to wood, stainless steel has a directional grain as indicated by the very fine lines seen throughout the metal surface. Always work the abrasive pad in the same direction as the grain to remove scratches, because abrading the surface across the grain will only create further scratches. Sandpaper can effectively remove deep scratches, but you should only use fine-grit abrasive (around 400 is sufficient) that has been soaked in water. Is there a way to expand a doorway for a wheelchair without rebuilding the frame? If you only need a couple of extra inches, you should try using an expandable hinge. Also called an offset hinge or handicap hinge, these 90-degree hinges install easily and add 2 inches to almost any doorway, allowing access for most wheelchairs, walkers and transfer chairs. They are designed to swing doors completely clear of the jamb opening when the door is opened 90 degrees. Expanding hinges typically work on left- or right-hand doors by flipping the hinge. How can I cut a bolt shorter without damaging the threads? The problem with clamping metal bolts, machine screws, or threaded rod in a vise to cut them to length is the damage caused to the threads. Here’s a better method: Attach a 2-by-2-in. board to a workbench with clamps or screws. Drill a hole through the face of the board the same diameter as the bolt you plan to cut. Screw a nut onto the bolt or rod, then slide the other end of the bolt through the hole in the board. Mark the cutline on the bolt that extends out of the board. Screw a second nut onto the bolt and tighten it against the board, bracketing it on both sides with the nuts to hold the bolt steady while cutting. Use a hacksaw to cut the bolt to length. Unscrew the nut with a wrench. The threads of the nut should remove any metal burrs and reshape any deformed threads left from cutting the bolt. When shopping for a tape measure, what is the difference in the terms “length,” “reach,” and “standout”? These terms originated from package marketing copy and can be misleading or confusing. The “length” indicated is indeed the length of the tape when fully extended from the box, i.e., a 25-ft. tape measure will extend a full 25 feet. “Standout” refers to the maximum extension of the tape blade from the box before it buckles and falls under its own weight. “Reach” is basically the “standout” measurement plus 3 feet, as determined by a worker using a guide hand to support the tape as it extends from the box, estimated to be 3 feet from the tape box.

by Tom Matthews Landscape lighting can transform your home’s outdoor space, enhancing its beauty, safety and functionality. Whether you’re illuminating a garden, pathway or patio, here are tried-and-true tips for homeowners to create an effective and stunning landscape lighting design. Priorities A well-designed lighting plan highlights your home’s best features, creates a welcoming ambiance, and ensures safe navigation after dark. Before selecting fixtures or bulbs, prioritize the goals of the lighting design. A smart plan will incorporate: Aesthetics: Remember the three Fs; fountains, flowers, and focal points. Highlight architectural features, trees, or garden beds to enhance the home’s curb appeal. Safety: Your visitors should be able to see where they’re walking. Illuminate pathways, stairs, or uneven terrain to prevent trips and falls. Security: Light up dark corners, entryways, or driveways to deter intruders and discourage your kids from sneaking out. Functionality: Extend the usability of outdoor spaces like patios or decks for evening gatherings, so you can party all the time. Plan with Layers A layered approach to lighting combines different types of lighting for depth and balance: • Ambient lighting provides overall illumination, such as post lights or wall-mounted lanterns for a general glow to the area. • Task lighting focuses light on specific areas, like spotlights for cooking areas or reading nooks. • Accent lighting highlights focal points, such as uplighting for trees, statues, or architectural details. • Safety lighting typically utilizes low-level lights for pathways, steps, or driveways to guide movement. Mix these layers to create a cohesive design. For example, combine soft pathway lights with dramatic uplighting on a feature tree for both function and flair. The Right Fixtures Select fixtures with shapes and finishes that complement your home’s style and withstand the outdoor conditions. • Path lights are low-level fixtures that line walkways or driveways, typically 1 to 2 feet tall. • Spotlights or uplights are adjustable and used to highlight trees, shrubs, or walls. • Wall lights are mounted on exterior walls for ambient or security lighting. • String lights are ideal for patios or pergolas, adding a warm, festive touch. • In-ground lights are subtle fixtures for illuminating steps or low-lying plants. Similarly, deck lighting is often incorporated into the railing or stair systems for unobtrusive low-key illumination. Opt for durable materials like stainless steel, brass, or powder-coated aluminum to resist weather. Ensure fixtures are rated for outdoor use (check for IP65 or higher for water resistance). Focus on Key Features A common DIY mistake is over-lighting or under-lighting the landscape. Sketch a rough layout of your yard and mark the key areas where lighting is needed. Less is often more when it comes to landscape lighting. Overlighting can cause glare and make your yard look washed out. Aim for subtlety—highlight key features without making your home look like an airport runway. Select a few focal points to highlight. Choose elements that stand out, such as architectural details like columns, arches, or textured walls. Common focal points include a majestic tree or unique shrub, water features like fountains or ponds for a reflective glow. Backlighting a sculpture or garden art can create a striking silhouette. Use spotlights or uplights with narrow beams (15-30 degrees) for dramatic effects on tall features like trees, and wider beams (60 degrees) for broader surfaces like walls. You can also control the light Intensity and direction. Too much light can create glare or a harsh, unnatural look. To maintain subtlety, use low-wattage bulbs (5-20 watts for LEDs) for most applications. Position the fixtures to avoid shining directly into eyes or neighbors’ windows. Use shields, louvers, or frosted lenses to diffuse light and reduce glare. For example, path lights with downward-facing shields will light walkways without blinding anyone. You should also experiment with beam angles; narrow beams for pinpoint accents, wider beams for general illumination. Experiment with different lighting directions and beam angles to achieve your desired effect. LED Technology LED lights have become the gold standard for landscape lighting because they use 75 to 80 percent less energy than incandescent bulbs, and they last up to 25 times longer, reducing replacement costs. LEDs also vary in color temperature. Choose warm white (2700K-3000K) for a cozy, inviting feel, or cooler tones (4000K) for modern aesthetics or security. Many LEDs are also dimmable, allowing you to adjust brightness for different moods. Check for high Color Rendering Index (CRI) ratings (80+) to ensure colors appear vibrant and true under the light. Smart Controls Smart lighting systems can add convenience and flexibility through the use of timers and sensors. Program lights to turn on at dusk and off at dawn, or use motion sensors for security. With “smart hubs,” you can control the lights via smartphone apps or voice assistants like Alexa or Google Home. This technology also allows homeowners to group lights into zones (e.g., front yard, backyard) for customized schedules or dimming. Smart controls also save energy by ensuring lights are only on when needed. Solar for Simplicity Solar-powered lights are easy to install and require no wiring, making them perfect for DIY projects. While they might not be as bright or consistent as wired options, they’re excellent for accent lighting or illuminating low-traffic areas. Safety and Accessibility A good-looking lawn is nice to have, but safety should be the top priority. Place path lights 6 to 8 feet apart along walkways to provide even illumination without dark spots. Illuminate stairs with recessed step lights or low-level fixtures that highlight each tread. Light entryways with wall sconces or overhead fixtures for secure access. Check local codes for outdoor electrical requirements and consider hiring a licensed electrician for hardwired installations. If your project involves extensive wiring, multiple zones, or advanced smart systems, consult a landscape lighting designer or electrician. They can create a tailored plan, ensure code compliance, and recommend energy-efficient solutions. By setting clear goals and planning how to layer light types, you can create a stunning and practical design. Start small, test your setup, and adjust as needed to craft an outdoor environment that’s beautiful and welcoming after dark.

Paint your porch ceiling blue. That should do the trick. Yep, that's pretty much all you need to keep evil spirits away. “Haint blue” porch ceilings are an old Southern tradition, where a pale “sky blue" paint color is used on porch ceilings to ward off evil spirits, known as "haints." From what I’ve read, this particular folklore originated from the idea that haints cannot cross water, so the blue color tricks them into thinking the ceiling is water or the sky, preventing them from entering your home (at least through the front porch). Some folks say the color also helps deter insects like spiders and birds from building nests. I mention this today because yesterday the people at Westlake Royal sent me a press announcement about the company’s new “Haint Blue” color for its 6-inch Reversible Beadboard/V-Groove Profile, “inspired by the century-old Southern tradition of painting porch ceilings blue.” image © Westlake Royal Building Products “Rooted in Southern tradition, this hue brings a sense of comfort and character to outdoor spaces, while the profile’s versatile design meets the needs of both classic and contemporary aesthetics,” says Steve Booz, vice president of marketing at Westlake Royal Building Products. Here’s the list of selling points: ·                 Reversible – Beadboard/V-Groove ·                 Low Maintenance cellular PVC – no painting required ·                 Moisture and termite proof ·                 Small unit size with sub bundled packs within for protection at the jobsite ·                 Made in the USA   But shockingly…. Stunningly…. There is ZERO mention of the product’s obvious NUMBER ONE SELLING POINT: Its ability to keep evil spirits out of your home! What a glaring omission! What a lost marketing opportunity! Lucky for you, constant reader, there are people like me who spend their free time writing oddball horror/thriller books and have done the proper research to share with you this crucial knowledge so that you can protect your home from evil. You’ll thank me later. -- Weber V-groove profile (left) and beadboard profile (right). Image © Westlake Royal Building Products

Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at many of the different topics and the tips we’ve covered for our readers. How can I bend drywall? The thinner the drywall panel (AKA gypsum board), the more it flexes. One option is to use flexible drywall, which is 1/4-in. drywall designed for more bendability than standard drywall. For this application, two panels are installed (one at a time with staggered seams) to achieve the normal 1/2-in. thickness. If the flexible drywall won’t bend to a tight enough radius, you can dampen it with a sponge or spray bottle to give it greater pliability. Bend as needed but be careful, because wet drywall is easy to damage. Fasten the drywall in place over solid framing and allow it to stiffen into shape as it dries. (Note: When wetting the drywall, use plenty of airflow to dry the boards completely after installation, or else mildew and mold can develop.) An alternative approach is to create bendable drywall by using a circular saw to score the back of 1/2-in. thick drywall from edge to edge with parallel cuts every 1/2 or 1 in. Avoid cutting all the way to the front-side paper facing. The removal of the gypsum material will enable the panel to bend backward along the same axis as the kerf cuts. Note that any curved outside corners of drywall will need to be protected by a flexible corner bead designed to bend along a radius. We moved into a home that came with a dishwasher, but the dishwasher needs cleaning. What is the best way to clean the inside of a dishwasher? Start by removing the racks, utensil baskets, strainer, and the filter, which is located on the floor of your dishwasher. Filters often twist off, but some types require removal with a screwdriver. Use a toothbrush to clean any residue off the dishwasher filter. Scoop out any collected food from the corners and around the strainer. Using gloves will help protect your hands from any sharp glass particles. Wipe down the walls, floor and ceiling of your dishwasher with a damp microfiber cloth. Don’t forget to clean around the rim of the door, as well as the spray arms. A toothpick or wire can be used as a tool to unclog the spray-arm holes. After cleaning, replace the racks, strainer, filter and utensil holder, then pour one or two cups of white vinegar into the dishwasher-safe bowl, set it in the center of the top rack, and run the wash cycle on hot. After the vinegar cycle is complete, sprinkle a cup of baking soda on the floor of the dishwasher and run a hot water express cycle to provide extra freshness. (Warning: Do not combine the vinegar and baking-soda cycles.) Does Coca-Cola work to clean a toilet? Coca-Cola contains phosphoric acid, so it can indeed be used to get rid of mineral-deposit stains like limescale due to buildup of magnesium and calcium carbonate from hard water. The acid eats away at the limescale and even rust to make it easier to clean. You will need to turn off the water supply, then flush and remove as much water as possible from the bowl. Pour a two-liter bottle of cola into the toilet, covering the stained portion of the bowl. Allow it to sit for a few hours (overnight for heavier buildup), then add more cola and scrub at the stains with an abrasive brush. Turn the water on and refill the toilet, then flush away the remaining Coke and stain residue. How do I bend PVC pipe? One trick to bending PVC pipe is to use heated sand. The amount of sand required depends on the size of the pipe. You can use the oven in your kitchen to heat a couple of packages of playground sand in casserole dishes until the sand reaches about 200 degrees. Plug one end of the PVC pipe and funnel the hot sand into the other end to fill it up. The internal heat of the sand should soften the PVC and make the pipe flexible, at which point you can hold its desired shape in position using a jig until the sand cools, and the pipe retains its new shape. Can I fix a bubble in wallpaper without replacing it? Try cutting a slit through the bubble with a sharp utility knife. Insert the tip of a syringe-style glue applicator through the slit and apply adhesive sparingly around the bubble beneath the paper. Press down the wallpaper and use a clean, damp sponge to smooth out the flap and re-bond it. Wipe away excess glue. What is the easiest way to hang a drying rack in a laundry room? There are many different designs of drying rack, but if you plan to "hang" one, it sounds like you're opting for a wall- or ceiling-mounted version. Much of your decision should be based on your room layout, i.e. if you're short on wall space, maybe a ceiling-mount model is the best solution. Some of these racks hang from wires and feature closet rods or clothespins. Some wire-mount hanging racks are held by pulleys and can be pulled up neatly out of the way. Also available are retractable clothes lines, fold-down wall racks, and "collapsible" racks that extend from the wall accordion-style. Make sure the ceiling or wall is capable of supporting the weight of a clothes rack full of wet laundry. For the most holding power, mount the rack into solid wall or ceiling framing. How do I control the spillover at the roof line where rainwater flows down a roof valley with such velocity that it ramps over the gutter? A Gutter Splash Guard is an aluminum accessory that screws onto to the upper edge of a gutter to keep water from shooting over the gutter in a heavy rain. Typically measuring about 3 inches tall and 16 inches wide, they’re designed to deflect water back into the gutter. These attachments are sold in straight or 90-degree corner configurations. Check your local hardware store for availability or search online for “gutter splash guard.” How do heated gutters work? A home’s gutter system can be heated through the addition of heat cables and heated gutter helmets. Heat cable can be installed directly in the gutter, usually in a zig-zag pattern, as well as at the roof's eave and routed through the gutter for extra protection. A heat cable helps reduce but not prevent accumulation of ice by melting a portion of the ice formation. This creates a pathway beneath the ice where water can drain off the roof. Some products come with thermostats that let you control the temperature. Heated gutter helmets are often designed to work in tandem with heat cable. These gutter helmets are installed directly on the gutter to reduce debris accumulation and they heat up to keep the gutter temperature above freezing, thus helping to prevent ice buildup. Can reflection from Low-E glass damage my home’s surrounding building materials? Reflection of sunlight from energy-efficient window products is capable of producing excessive heat on the surface of building materials. Low-emissivity (Low-E) glass is designed to prevent passive heat gain within a structure but can cause unusual heat buildup on exterior surfaces. The reflection of more longwave infrared (IR) energy and shortwave ultraviolet (UV) light can cause damage to plastic surfaces nearby such as vinyl siding, composite decking, patio furniture, and even plastic automotive trim. As a result, these products may melt, sag, warp, discolor and accelerate weathering. Lawns, turf, shrubs, and other landscaping are also susceptible to damage. It may be possible to reduce intensity of the reflected heat with the application of window film, which can absorb part of the sun’s longwave IR before it hits the Low-E coating to be reflected outside. What are the site requirements for a prefabricated tiny home? The site requirements for a tiny home depend on how small the home is and the nature of its construction. Many prefabricated “tiny homes” are designated as Traveler Trailer RVs. Federal regulations provide that an RV is a vehicle or vehicle structure not certified as a manufactured home. These types of tiny homes are primarily designed as temporary living quarters for recreational, camping, travel or seasonable use, and not as a permanent dwelling. To prepare for delivery, the site must be level and firm. The foundation can be constructed of concrete, asphalt, or even compacted gravel. In addition, you need an approach to the site that is wide enough and firm enough for the delivery vehicle. If the approach to your site is straight, it should be a minimum of 10 to 12 feet wide with 15 feet of overhead clearance for delivery. Curves will require more width, and steep approaches can pose a problem for delivery. As for utilities, prefab tiny homes are often connected like an RV, with single drops for power, water and sewer in a simple location to access and hook up. In many cases, no permits are required, but this varies by location, so call your local zoning office for more information. I’m considering adding a spiral staircase from our upper level to the basement. What measurements should I take before ordering the kit? The most important measurement that you’ll need to know for how to build a spiral staircase is your finished floor to finished floor height. Your finished floor-to-floor height will determine how many steps, or treads, are in your staircase and the rotation of your spiral stair. To determine the height, measure from the bottom floor to the finished floor and include any subflooring or carpeting for the most accurate measurement. You will also need to determine the size of your well opening (the hole in the floor), which needs to be at least two inches larger than the stair’s diameter. Refer to the dimensions of the available staircase kits to determine the minimum size of the well opening. What is the easiest way to repair damaged peel-and-stick flooring? If peel-and-stick vinyl tile or planks have been damaged or are coming unattached from the subfloor, the best way to repair is to remove the individual tiles and replace them. For stubborn tiles that are difficult to remove, try applying heat to soften the adhesive backing. Use a heat gun or hairdryer on a low setting to warm the tile, making it more pliable and easier to pry away. Replace the tile with new peel-and-stick tile, following manufacturer suggestions for installation. Peel-and-stick tile always adheres best if pressed down with a hard rubber roller after installation.

­Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at many of the different plumbing topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. How do I unclog a bathroom sink? To fight a sink clog, most folks start by using a simple cup-shaped bathroom plunger. Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the drain and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. Seal off any other outlets, such as the overflow drain in sinks, to create a vacuum, then fill the sink with enough water to cover the suction area. Push out any trapped air beneath the cup, then give the plunger 15 to 20 vigorous up-and-down pumping strokes to jolt loose the clog. This may take 3 to 5 times to work. If that doesn’t unclog the problem, you can remove the drain cover which closes the drain. To do this, first place a bucket beneath the sink to catch water. The drain cover opens and closes using a ball-and-socket lift lever at the back of the sink’s drain pipe. Unscrew and remove the retaining nut that holds the “ball” of the lever to the socket. This should allow you to slide the lever rod out of the keyhole on the bottom of the drain cover. You should then be able to pull the drain cover freely out of the sink drain, which is often what traps hair, objects and other debris in the drain. Use a wire coat hanger and hot water to clear out the drain pipe and thoroughly wash the drain cover before replacement. If this still doesn’t work, you can use a pipe wrench to remove the P-trap beneath the sink, in which a foreign object may have gotten trapped in the turn of the pipe. You can also run a plumbing snake into the drain pipe past the P-trap to rout out clogs further down the line. How does cured-in-place-piping work for sewer drains? Cured-in-place-pipe lining (aka CIPP or structural pipe lining) is a type of trenchless sewer repair for when your main house sewer line is damaged. The “trenchless” term refers to doing underground construction work using a minimally invasive technique without the extensive digging normally associated with sewer repair. CIPP or structural pipe lining involves creating a new pipe within the old one by inserting an epoxy-soaked liner into the damaged pipe and leaving it to cure for a few hours to make the pipe as good as new. The main benefit is that the repair can be performed without having to re-route traffic or dig a trench through your house. It’s faster than conventional methods and can usually be performed in hours rather than days. Is there a way to install a new single-handle kitchen faucet on a countertop while hiding the holes from the old two-handle faucet? To replace a three-hole faucet with a single-hole faucet, you need a “deck plate” AKA “escutcheon,” which is a metal plate (usually about 10 inches long) that covers the two side holes in the countertop while providing a center hole in which to install the new faucet. To replace a three-hole faucet with a two-hole faucet, you might consider filling the third hole with a soap-dispenser assembly, which has a nozzle that matches the faucet’s finish and a soap reservoir that stays hidden beneath the countertop. The upstairs bathtub is leaking, but I can’t find the exact source of the problem. I’ve replaced the faucet valves and the shower diverter, and I’ve sealed and tightened all the plumbing connections. Yet, when someone takes a shower, water still leaks onto the ceiling below. Where could the leak be coming from? It sounds like you have a bath/shower combo, and if you’ve ruled out everything else, you should inspect the bathtub overflow drain. The overflow drain is usually sealed with a foam rubber gasket which can deteriorate over time. Once the gasket fails, a significant amount of water can pass through the opening. Replacing an overflow drain gasket is a fairly easy fix. First, remove the screws that mount the cover plate. Pull out the lever assembly, including the drain plug. Remove the old gasket material from the tub and the body of the overflow drain. You’ll need to replace it with an “overflow washer” or “overflow gasket” from the hardware store. The gasket is beveled, so orient it with the thickest side down when installing it. Lubricate the gasket with a little plumber’s silicone grease and work it into place around the mouth of the overflow body. The overflow pipe will have a little play which should allow you to adjust its position and make room for the gasket. Make sure it seats evenly for a complete seal around the connection. Replace the drain assembly and fasten the plate with the two mounting screws to finish the job. My neighbor recommended that I get a check valve installed for my house plumbing. What does a check valve do? A check valve, also called a non-return valve, is a small device installed in your pipes to make sure water flows only in one direction. When a flood occurs, sewers can overfill, pushing water back through your plumbing system. Installing the check valve lets water pass down through your pipes as it was meant to do, but prevents it from flowing back up the pipes to a toilet or sink. Is there a way to extend the life of a water heater tank? Manufacturers take two approaches to extending the life of a steel water-heater tank. The baked-on porcelain tank lining is the first line of defense. A sacrificial anode rod, often made of magnesium, is the second line of defense, and many homeowners don’t realize that this anode can be replaced to extend the life of the tank. The rods are typically less than an inch thick, about 42 inches long, and are usually threaded into the top of the tank. As long as the anode rod is degrading in the tank, the tank lining will be protected from rusting. This is accomplished through a process called electrolysis, by which the metals in the anode rod attract ions that normally cause rust in iron and steel. These ions are what cause the anode rod to degrade over time. Eventually, the anode rod will degrade to the point where it can no longer attract the ions that cause rust. At that point, the rod will need to be replaced in order to maintain protection for the tank. Replacement anodes are available for purchase, and some are sold as flexible rods for easy installation. Why do I need to flush out the tank of our water heater? Plumbing experts recommend draining and flushing a water heater’s tank once or twice a year, and if you live in an area with hard water, they recommend flushing it every 4-6 months. The longer it goes without a drain-and-flush, the more sediment and minerals will accumulate at the bottom of the tank. Because most tank water heaters have their heating element at the bottom, the sediment buildup reduces its heating efficiency. If left to accumulate, the mineral buildup could also lead to further problems, including corrosion of the tank or dangerous blockage of the pressure-relief valve. Draining and flushing the tank with clean water will help prevent this. To drain the tank, first shut off power to the water heater. Turn off the cold water supply. Allow the water to cool. Locate the drain valve and connect it to a garden hose. Turn on a hot water faucet and leave it on until the entire flushing process is complete. Place the garden-hose outlet so the water will flow safely away from your home and your neighbor’s property, then open the drain valve to empty the tank. Once it has drained, turn the cold water back on with the valve still open to help eliminate any remaining sediment. Repeat this step until the water runs clear. Close the drain valve, remove the hose, then turn the water supply back on to refill the tank. Once it is full, turn the power or gas supply to the water heater back on. Remember to turn off the faucet you turned on earlier. What’s the best way to stabilize a wobbly toilet? Toilets wobble or rock because of uneven floors. Over time, movement in the toilet will deteriorate the wax ring, which will result in a toilet leak. To fix the problem, sit on the lid to weigh down the toilet and use a wrench to snug down the flange bolts that hold the base to the floor. Be careful not to overtighten them and crack the porcelain. If any gaps remain between the base and floor, insert plastic toilet shims, Available at most ardware stores, toilet shims are small wedge-shaped tabs. When you’ve used enough shims to stop the toilet from rocking, cut off the excess length. If the shims are too tough to slice with a utility knife, cut with a multi-tool or a wood chisel and hammer. My water bill went up. How do I check for leaks? High water bills are commonly caused by running toilets, which can waste up to 200 gallons per day. Leaky faucets can drip up to 20 gallons per day. Check all faucets for leaks, as well as inspect your toilet’s tank and listen for any sounds, such as hissing. In some cases, a valve might need to be replaced or the toilet’s flapper might be worn out. If you don’t find leaks, you’ll need to check your water line and outdoor hose bibs. If you shut off all the water fixtures in the home but your home’s water meter still indicates that water is flowing, then you might have a leak in your home’s main supply line. What is the easiest way to unclog a kitchen sink? To clear a clogged kitchen sink, you can try plunging the drain with a cup-shaped plunger. However, this requires creating an air-tight seal in the drain by closing off any openings, such as plugging the other basin drain of a twin sink. Also, if a dishwasher is connected to the sink drain, then the washer’s drain line will need to be clamped shut or otherwise sealed closed before plunging. Plunge the drain rhythmically for six to eight repetitions and repeat if necessary. Rinse the drain with plenty of hot water. If plunging is not effective, place a bucket beneath the P-trap under the sink and unscrew the two slip nuts at each end of the U-shaped drain pipe. Remove the pipe and clear out any obstruction with a wire coat hanger, then clean the pipe thoroughly before replacing it. If the clog is further downstream of the trap, remove the drain pipe from the fitting in the wall and inspect the drain with a flashlight. Any water in the line indicates a clog. Clear it with a hand-crank or drill-powered auger. When reassembling the pipe, use Teflon thread tape to seal the pipe threads. Tighten all metal drain nuts with Channellock pliers, but plastic slip nuts should be hand-tightened.