By Sean Comerford Toilets may seem like simple fixtures, but leaks can be a common and frustrating problem, potentially damaging your bathroom. Understanding the various causes of leaks is essential for effective repair. In this guide, we’ll break down the troubleshooting process, empowering you with the knowledge and tools to tackle the issue like a pro, saving time and money. If a toilet leaks from the base, the most common cause is a damaged closet flange. However, before removing the toilet to inspect the closet flange, check for these potential issues and repair as necessary: Loose floor bolts: Tighten them gently with a wrench to secure the toilet base without cracking the porcelain. Replace the washers or bolts if damaged. Cracks in the toilet bowl or tank: Turn off the water supply and drain the toilet. Then, for hairline cracks, use a waterproof epoxy or porcelain repair kit. If the crack is large, replace the bowl or tank entirely to prevent leaks and further damage. Clogged drain line: To clear a blockage, first try using a plunger or a toilet auger. If those methods don't work, consider using an enzymatic drain cleaner. For more severe clogs, it's best to call a professional plumber. If there is a backup that leaks from the base of the toilet, the closet flange or wax ring needs to be checked, as the seal may be compromised. Leaks in the water supply line: Turn off the water supply, tighten or replace the compression nuts or washers, and use plumber’s tape on threaded joints to ensure a watertight seal. Another option is to replace the supply line entirely. Condensation: Reduce humidity by improving bathroom ventilation, insulating the toilet tank with a liner kit, or installing an anti-sweat valve to mix warm water with the cold supply to prevent moisture buildup. If the leak continues, inspect and repair (or replace) the closet flange as needed by following the steps below. Closet Flanges And Wax Rings A closet flange , also called a toilet flange, serves as the point of connection between the toilet and a home’s sewage drainage system and secures the toilet to the floor. A wax ring mounted on the closet flange creates a watertight seal between the bottom of the toilet and the sewer pipe, preventing leaks, odors, or sewer gases from escaping the fixture. The wax ring creates a water-tight seal. Closet flanges and wax rings work together. If the closet flange cracks and causes the toilet to become unstable, the rocking movement can also break the wax seal. When this occurs, water will leak from the toilet base and often through the ceiling below. Improper installation practices are typically the reason for this type of failure. Tools and Materials Needed: Adjustable wrenches Bucket/sponge Mini hacksaw Replacement wax ring Replacement toilet mounting bolts Replacement water supply line Floor covering LiquiLock Oatey Fix-It Repair Ring or Oatey Set-Rite Flange Extender Turn Off the Water Connection Before replacing your toilet, ensure the water supply is shut off. Typically, the valve is located behind the toilet. Turn it clockwise to shut off the water supply. If no valve is present behind the toilet, shut off the home or building’s main water supply. This valve is usually located in the basement or laundry room. Once the water supply is off, lift the toilet tank lid and flush the toilet. Keep the handle down to empty as much water as possible from the tank and bowl. Use a sponge to remove any remaining water from the bowl, or use Oatey LiquiLock to temporarily solidify the remaining water in the bowl. Liquilock is a product that solidifies water in 4-5 minutes to help prevent drips and leaks when removing toilet fixtures. The gel dissolves when additional water is added. Disconnect the Supply Line To disconnect the water supply line from the toilet fill valve, loosen the 3/8-inch compression nut. This will help when resetting the toilet after the wax seal is replaced. Cover the bathroom floor or bathtub with a protective material depending on where you plan to place the toilet while replacing the wax seal. Next, remove the caps covering the bolts and washers by gently prying them upwards with a flathead screwdriver. Be cautious not to exert too much pressure on the china to avoid chipping or cracking. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts and washers from the bolts at the toilet base. If the bolt spins while turning the nut, hold it with a separate pair of pliers. If you are not using new bolts, nuts, and washers, store the existing ones to avoid losing them. Tip: We recommend replacing the toilet supply line when replacing the toilet wax ring. If the wax ring is old to enough to require replacement, then it’s probably time to replace your supply line as well. Remove the Toilet To remove the toilet, grab it under the sides of the bowl and rock it gently back and forth to break the old wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor and set it on the protective covering. If the toilet is caulked to the finished floor, score the caulking around the toilet base with a razor knife. Remove the Old Wax Ring While wearing gloves, remove the old toilet wax ring. Using a putty knife, scrape the old wax seal off the toilet’s base and toilet flange. Next, scrape the caulk off the toilet bowl and the finished floor. Before installing a new toilet wax ring, inspect the toilet flange for any cracks or decay. Use a scraper to remove all the wax ring material and scrape the caulk off the toilet bowl and the finished floor. After removing the old toilet wax ring, immediately plug the drain to prevent noxious sewer gas from entering the home or building. We recommend using a 3- to 4-inch gripper plug when the toilet will be displaced for an extended time. If you plan to reinstall your toilet immediately, stuffing a large ball of rags into the pipe will suffice. Repair or Replace the Closet Flange With the toilet and wax ring out of the way, you should now be able to diagnose the issue behind any leak of your toilet base. • If the toilet flange is cracked or missing one or both slots that the toilet bolts slide into, apply an Oatey Fix-It Repair Ring to save your-self the time and hassle of replacing the entire closet flange and ring unit. The Fix-It Repair Ring can be placed on top of a broken flange and includes 10 mounting holes for a wide range of installation options. • If the flange is below the finished floor level, install Oatey’s Set-Rite Flange Extender Kit to raise the flange to the correct height. Applying the Fix-It Repair Ring The Fix-It Repair Ring can be placed on top of a broken flange and includes multiple mounting holes for a range of installation options. To start, line the rim with silicone sealant. Slide Johni-Bolts into intact slots and press the replacement ring to the sealant. Screw the repair ring to the subfloor using the hole at each of the four corners before wiping away excess sealant. Finally, slide the bolts into the slots on the repair ring. Raising the Closet Flange If the flange is below the finished floor level, install Oatey’s Set-Rite Flange Extender Kit to raise it to the correct height. The Set-Rite spacers come in sizes ranging from 1/8 to 3/4 inches and can reach a height of 2-1/4 inches. (The flange itself adds 5/8 inch.) Tip: The maximum offset from the flange to the top of the floor is 1-5/8 inches. The spacers of Oatey’s Set-Rite Flange Extender Kit can be stacked on each other to maximize height. First, measure the height from the existing toilet flange to the finished floor. Purchase an extension kit according to this measurement, as spacers can be stacked on each other to maximize height. When installing an extension kit, insert the foam rubber gasket before arranging the spacers and flange on top. Finally, screw the flange into the subfloor. Don’t see any visible damage to the toilet flange, ring or inner pipe? If a leak persists onto lower floors or seems to be seeping into the subflooring, we suggest hiring a professional to diagnose any issues with the internal piping beneath the floor. Replace the Toilet Wax Ring Anytime a wax seal is replaced, you should replace the T-bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Some wax rings come in a kit that includes new mounting bolts. Consider using Hercules Johni-bolt , a brass bolt with a snap-off slot and captive washer, available in regular and extra-long lengths. If you are keeping the existing bolts, ensure they are in good condition and properly aligned with the flange and wall. Install any needed repair parts or spacers before adding the new mounting bolts. Now that the mounting bolts are secured, it’s time to replace the toilet wax ring. Position the new toilet wax ring on top of the toilet flange, ensuring it is centered. You must replace the wax ring whenever you remove a toilet. But always check if the closet flange needs to be repaired or replaced, too. When replacing a wax ring, you always want to start fresh, so you must completely scrape off the old ring with a putty knife. From there, the installation is pretty simple. Place the wax ring on the flange and then drop the toilet into place. When reinstalling the toilet, it’s important to compress the wax ring to make the toilet sit flush on the floor before bolting it in. The best way to do this is to use a slight, side-to-side twist motion until the bowl is completely leveled. Then tighten the toilet bolts and hook up the water supply. Keep the wax itself between 70-110 degrees F. If you need to warm up your wax ring in a pinch, fill the sink with warm water and let it sit for a few minutes to bring it to the right temperature for installation. Re-Install the Toilet When reinstalling the toilet, use the bolts as guides. Keep the tank parallel to the wall to ensure a level placement on the new wax ring. Do not rock the toilet as you place it onto the new toilet wax ring. Instead, use a slight side-to-side twisting motion until the toilet bowl rests on the finished bathroom floor. Many people tend to rock a toilet back and forth during installation. What happens to the wax gasket because of this? Because wax material has no memory, it won't be compressed evenly if this rocking movement occurs. A lack of even wax compression will likely result in several leak paths. This is why we recommend slightly twisting side-to-side when placing a new toilet on the wax seal. Tip: If the toilet bowl will not level, use toilet shims. Secure the Toilet Reinstall the washers and bolts in their original order and location. Tighten the bolts while alternating from side to side until the toilet bowl is securely and evenly set on the finished floor. Avoid overtightening the bolts, which can lead to damaging or cracking the toilet bowl. If necessary, saw off any excess bolt length, then add the decorative caps. Tip: Stop tightening the nuts as soon as they’re snugly in place to prevent the toilet from tipping. Too much torque can crack the porcelain or damage the drain flange. Test for Leaks Finally, rehook your water supply. After reinstallation, turn on the water and let the tank fill before flushing. If you used LiquiLock to solidify the water, follow the instructions on the package when reintroducing new water into the toilet bowl. Reconnect your water supply and test for leaks. Position tissues or toilet paper around the entire base of the toilet bowl where it meets the finished floor. Then, flush the toilet multiple times. If you detect water on the tissues or paper, the wax seal isn't correctly installed, and you will have to remove the toilet and start the installation over with a new wax seal. If you do not see any leaks, caulk the toilet bowl to the finished flooring. If a leak is detected, identify the source as soon as possible before floor damage can occur. For insurance against leaks, replace the water line linking your toilet to the water line coming through the wall or floor. --- A bout the author: Sean Comerford is Manager, Inside Sales and Tech Support at Oatey Co. He is a third-generation tradesman with nearly 20 years of plumbing experience, including serving as the lead plumber for commercial/residential new-construction, service and fire protection jobs. He holds a State of Ohio Fire Protection License for Sprinkler and Standpipe.

By Jeff Tew Along with providing sought-after authenticity and rich beauty, manufactured stone veneer (MSV) offers versatility and light weight that make it suitable for a wide array of architectural applications, from foundation façades and chimneys to statement walls and outdoor landscaping projects. It’s also straightforward to install and can be used over both metal and wood-framed walls, masonry substrates of CMU (concrete masonry units/blocks), and poured and tilt-up concrete. As with any building material, long-term performance of manufactured stone relies on proper installation. Along with following manufacturer instructions, here are some general guidelines for prepping the façade and protecting the walls from inside out. Preparing the Envelope Water management is a critical component of proper stone veneer installation. Achieving appropriate water management requires adherence to three principles: 1.      MSV Cladding: The purpose of this layer is to make our buildings beautiful and interesting while protecting from the elements like UV and debris, and slow the penetration of rainwater. 2.      Primary Weather Resistive Barrier (WRB) : The primary WRB is used in conjunction with the cladding to protect the building from moisture penetration and in some cases can be designed to be part of an air barrier system.  3.      Rainscreen:  This is placed between the primary WRB and the MSV cladding and used to create an intentional airspace to help moisture and vapor escape the exterior envelope system. While not required in all climates, the rainscreen provides an additional layer of protection against water infiltration. Before beginning manufactured stone installation, first ensure that the surface where the stone veneer will be applied is compliant with local building codes and does not exhibit any signs of structural failure or deterioration. With sheathing like OSB, ensure proper gapping (typically 1/8” at seams) to allow for expansion and avoid cracking the stone veneer. When working with frame construction, make sure to apply two layers of weather resistive barrier and install a weep screed to allow moisture to escape. The primary layer of WRB is responsible for drainage of any incidental water that infiltrates the wall system, so investment in a good primary WRB is critical. The second WRB layer, often referred to as the “sacrificial layer,” protects the primary WRB from mortar adhesion while also establishing a small drainage plain between the two layers. It’s critical to install a weep screed at the bottom of the MSV cladding system. The weep screed provides an exit point for any incidental water in the MSV system and capillary break to keep water from wicking up into the system. In most instances, the weep screed should be placed with 4” clearance above grade or 2” clearance from a paved surface. Install the weep screed first, so that WRB materials can overlap its 3-1/2” attachment flange in shingle fashion. If you’re dealing with masonry, as opposed to wood framing, construction building codes don’t require a WRB or weep screed. If there are concerns with moisture, there is nothing that precludes installation of a WRB in masonry applications. When installing a WRB over masonry, you’ll lose the option to adhere the stone veneer directly to the masonry and will need to install either lath and a scratch coat or a high-quality exterior-grade cement board. Installing the Lath Lath represents the skeleton of the adhered stone veneer system, and its installation is critical. To ensure proper installation, fasten lath to the wood framing (through the sheathing) so the weight load of the adhered manufactured stone veneer system can be transferred to the framing. That means using appropriate-length fasteners (make sure they are galvanized and corrosion-resistant) to obtain a minimum 3/4” penetration into the framing. Space fasteners no more than 7” on center, and lap lath 1’ at vertical and 1/2” on the horizontal seams. At both inside and outside corners, wrap lath past the corners to the next framing member approximately 16” beyond the corner. The water resistive barrier and lath must continuously wrap a minimum of 16” at outside and inside corners and fasten at a framing member. In sequence: (1) wall substrate, (2) two layers of water resistive barrier, and (3) metal lath. Among the options for lath are expanded metal lath, woven wire lath, welded wire lath, fiberglass lath, and some types of plastic lath. As you determine what type of lath to use, remember that MSV, mortar, and lath can weigh up to 25 pounds per square foot. Lath with its attachments will carry this load to the framing. Be sure to use a quality, code-approved lath and don’t cut corners. Applying the Scratch Coat The scratch coat provides two critical functions: minimizing water and air infiltration (and decreasing corrosion susceptibility) and providing a solid base to adhere the MSV too. For optimal performance, the scratch coat should be 1/2” to 3/4” thick. Using a self-furred or lath furring fastener, drive it into the center of the lath near the middle of the mortar thickness. Reinforcement at the center of the mortar offers optimal crack resistance. Failure to fur the lath will make it difficult to obtain the necessary scratch coat thickness and will also prevent reinforcement from functioning to its full extent. Achieving a Solid Bond To meet building code requirements, adhered stone veneer must achieve a minimum bond strength of 50 psi. To meet these standards, follow these key principles: Make sure the stone units are clean.  Remove any loose material, dirt, and dust from the back of the MSV unit with a stiff bristle brush. Consider weather conditions . Hot and/or dry weather will require you to dampen the back of each manufactured stone unit as well as the scratch coat. This is a crucial step in helping the setting bed mortar achieve proper bond. Meanwhile, cold weather will require you to heat stone veneer materials, and also to tent and heat during installation and curing. Choose high-quality mortar  that meets (or exceeds) building code and stone manufacturer requirements. Carefully mix mortar  per the mortar manufacturer instructions and to a consistency that a trowel covered with it can be inverted and the mortar will not slide off easily. Mix only what you can use, as the bond is critical. Don’t take chances here. Units should be installed using either Method A or Method B, or a combination of both to achieve a mortar setting bed with complete coverage of the back of the unit and full contact between the setting bed, unit, and prepared backing surface. Consider the best options for application: Method A: Press a thin layer of mortar into the back of a clean and damp MSV unit before applying an additional amount of setting bed mortar. The total thickness should be approximately  1/2” to 3/4” thick on the back of the stone. Press the MSV unit onto the prepared scratch coat with sufficient movement and pressure to remove any air from behind the unit and achieve squeeze-out on all sides of the unit. Method B: Trowel mortar onto the wall in an approximate 5-square-foot area 1/2” to 3/4” thick.  Don’t prepare too large an area that it begins to dry or skin over before you apply the MSV unit. Press a thin layer of mortar into the back of a clean and damp MSV unit before applying the unit to the wall. Do so with enough pressure and movement to remove any air from behind the unit and achieve squeeze-out on all sides of the unit. For a complete list of surfaces onto which you can adhere manufactured stone, plus specific installation guidelines for each, refer to Cultured Stone’s Resources . The goal is to achieve a uniform layer of mortar on the wall that supplements the mortar of the scratch coat and achieves a minimum 50-psi shear bond strength. You should have no voids within the mortar layers that could capture water, as captured water can freeze and result in de-bonding. -- About the author: Jeff Tew is Director of Technical & Training for Westlake Royal Stone Solutions. To learn more about Cultured Stone, visit www.culturedstone.com .

By Dirk Tharpe S hown is the  Nantucket   vinyl fence system from  Oldcastle APG 's  Catalyst Fence Solutions A fence installation or upgrade is a top project for many homeowners looking to boost their home’s curb appeal and increase the resale value. Fences enhance the overall aesthetic of a home while also serving as a functional means to improve privacy and security, particularly for homeowners with pets or small children. An attractive, well-maintained fence provides homeowners with a good return on investment, meaning the quality of installation is key alongside material selection.  While most professionals know the basics for setting fence posts and poles, a good refresher is always beneficial during the home improvement season. Project Prep + Building with Lumber The first step when starting any project that requires more intensive construction is to align with local building code requirements to ensure compliance. There may be hurdles with an H.O.A., County Zoning Boards, or possibly even your local Historic Preservation Committee. Once code requirements and any permitting are secured, it’s time to get to work. After determining the location of the fence on the property, the first step is to run a string line from just past a corner of the fence to the end of the section, in a straight line. Drive stakes on each end of the run and pull the string tight. Repeat the process until the fence is laid out. This string placement is crucial, as it will be used to line up the fence post faces. Excavation Determining the hole depth is a crucial detail when beginning the fence installation. To avoid frost heave, it is advised that the hole depth be dug six inches below the frost line, which varies from region to region. Once you have confirmed this detail, you can begin digging to place the fence posts. When working with traditional lumber (cedar, cypress, redwood, pressure-treated), there are rules of thumb for the depth and width of the post holes. The width of the hole should be about three times the width of the post, and the depth of the hole should be 1/3 the height of the finished post. Tools like Sakrete’s Post Setting Calculator  are helpful for determining how much concrete you need for setting, providing a fast, precise estimate.   A best practice for digging each hole is to create an inverted cone shape in the ground. Shaping the bottom of the hole wider than the top will lead to the best results. Once the hole-digging is complete, fill the bottoms of each hole with a four to six-inch layer of gravel. This is needed when working with lumber to improve drainage, as wood posts are susceptible to wood rot. You can use the bottom of the post to compact this layer before moving on to setting with concrete. Setting The Posts: Fast Setting for Ease, Efficiency    Setting posts can be a dusty task. Before you start the post-setting process, be sure you and your team are wearing proper respiratory protection. Once your team has donned their PPE, begin placing the posts within the center of the holes. It's recommended to use fast-setting concrete to set your posts as quickly as possible. A fast-setting concrete mix will set within 30 minutes at warm temperatures, allowing you to work efficiently. To begin the setting process, fill the hole about 1/3 of the way with water. Next, add your fast-setting concrete mix, straight from the bag, until it reaches the top of the post hole. If it appears too dry, add water to the top. Fast-setting concrete mix does not require mixing when setting a post. There is no need to backfill the hole with dirt, as it is filled and topped with concrete. If possible, slope the top of the concrete down and away from the base of the post for proper drainage.  With the post set in fresh concrete, it is time to plumb the post. In warmer weather, remember to move fast, as fast-setting concrete will clearly demonstrate its name. Place a level longways or lengthwise on the post and adjust front to back until it is straight, then repeat the process on the side of the post, plumbing left to right. Once the center has been reached, hold the post firmly for 3 to 5 minutes. Once the concrete tightens or “bites,” let go of the post and do not disturb. Move on to the next hole and post, and repeat the process.  To clarify, the 30-minute set listed on Fast Setting Concrete Mix packaging and in the Technical Data Sheets refers to “initial set.” This is a lab test to determine when the mortar paste reaches 500-psi. In field use, you have 3 to 5 minutes to complete the plumbing of the post. Wait until after the 30-minute set time before attaching ribs to the newly set posts. The concrete procedures described above only apply to fence construction when using a Fast-Setting Concrete Mix. When using a conventional concrete mix, such as Sakrete High Strength Concrete Mix, you must first mix the concrete with the designated water content and then pour it into the hole around the post, following the steps previously discussed, through the plumbing of the post. As the center is found left to right, have a helper secure the position with a wooden brace. Repeat the process to find the center from front to back and brace. Each post should be left alone to set and cure overnight. Begin the next day by removing the braces, then start attaching the ribs for the fence. Working with Premium Fence Materials While most homeowners historically have wooden fences around their property, many are making the move to premium materials. Vinyl, powder-coated aluminum and mixed material fence solutions offer more aesthetic options alongside several functional benefits. Materials like vinyl and aluminum require much less maintenance than traditional wood, with minimal cleaning needed to keep them looking new. These materials are not prone to rotting, warping, and cracking like wood fences. The longevity of wood-fence alternatives gives homeowners more flexibility, with just a bit more upfront investment required. Many of these materials also provide added safety benefits. Products like vinyl are typically third-party tested for impact resistance to see how they withstand weather events, severe wind and even fire. Their ratings can prove beneficial when selling clients on a premium fence solution or giving them extra peace of mind. The steps for installing these fence materials are not that dissimilar to working with lumber. You’ll conduct the same prep work but should consult the manufacturer’s instructions on how deep to dig, as premium materials are not as affected by frost. Fast-setting concrete works in these applications, but again, you should consult the manufacturer’s instructions to devise your post anchoring technique and plan. Do not anchor posts with dry concrete.  Packing dry concrete around a post has little benefit over compacted soil.   Making the Right Choice for Your Clients If you’re a pro working with a client on a new or upgraded fence project, talk through their priorities, budget and design ideas. This will allow you to work together to choose the best material for their outcome and meet their desired timeframe. If clients are seeking something more durable and can allocate a larger budget upfront, a premium fence solution will be the best option to meet their needs. Consulting these best practices and the manufacturer’s instructions will arm you with the knowledge you need to get the job done well and fast.   -- Side Note Bracing Posts While the Concrete Cures There are many reasons to set a post in concrete, from building a fence or a mailbox to supporting a deck or a pergola. For tall, heavy posts, you might find it helpful to construct temporary bracing to keep the post vertical as the High Strength Concrete Mix cures overnight. For this you are going to need wood stakes and some lumber boards to serve as battens (1x4 or 2x4 will work). After compacting the gravel base in the post hole, set the post inside and screw a length of batten to one face of the square post. Attached the second batten onto an adjacent side so that they are at 90 degrees to each other at least 18-24 inches up from ground level. Bed the post down into the gravel about an inch and let the ends of battens pivot downward to rest on the ground. Ensure the post is square in the hole. Hammer stakes into the ground alongside the battens and just a few inches away from their ends.   Use a spirit level or post level to get the post vertically plumb, left to right and front to back. Once it is in place, screw the battens into the stakes to hold the post in position while you set it with the concrete.

­ Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at a few of the different electrical topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. Does the aluminum wiring in my house pose a fire hazard? If your house has aluminum wiring, it could pose a fire hazard, but the wiring itself isn’t the problem. Aluminum safely conducts electricity, but the connections can be a problem. The wires must be connected individually so they are not prone to corrosion. The only safe way to connect copper and aluminum is through a splice connector. An electrician can splice the connections by adding a short section of copper wire to the end of each aluminum wire. By doing this, copper wire rather than aluminum will be connected to each switch, outlet or other device. Can I install a fan on a sloped ceiling? That will depend on the design of your fan and its mounting mechanism. Some fans that use the modern hanging bracket and hanger ball can be installed at a maximum angle of 15 degrees, provided the recessed outlet box is securely fastened to strong framing support and that the opening of the mounting bracket is oriented at the top. Some fans can be installed on vaulted ceilings up to 35 degrees. However, if your ceiling has a pitch greater than the maximum slope the fan's in-box mounting kit can accommodate, it will need a Sloped Ceiling Adapter for proper installation. Check with the ceiling fan’s manufacturer to see if a compatible kit is available. Is it possible to plug a generator into a house’s electrical outlet to power the home wiring? You should not use the generator to “backfeed” power into your home electrical system. Trying to power your home’s electrical wiring by “backfeeding”—where you plug the generator into a wall outlet—is very dangerous. You could hurt utility workers and neighbors served by the same transformer. Backfeeding bypasses built-in circuit devices, so you could damage your electronics or start an electrical fire. A ceiling joist crosses the exact spot where I’d like to install a fan. Do I have to move the electrical box to the right or the left, or is there a way to install the ceiling fan where the joist is? If a ceiling joist crosses the spot where you want to hang a light fixture or ceiling fan, you’ll need to use a saddle box instead of a standard electrical box. The saddle box is shaped with an indentation that wraps around the joist but still provides the code-required wire housing of a junction box. For ceiling fans, the junction box should usually be made of metal to ensure a reliable thread connection with the fan’s mounting bolts. With a saddle box, however, the fan will be installed with screws driven through the box and into the joist, rather than fastened to the box with bolts.

­Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at a few of the different painting and finishing topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. How do I whitewash a brick fireplace? First step is to brush away any loose grit. Clean the brick with dish soap, water and a rag, then rinse it well. Use painter's tape to mask the brick from surrounding surfaces. Cover the floor with a drop cloth. For a light, semi-transparent finish, mix equal parts white latex paint and water in a bucket, and blend it well. Brush the whitewash first onto the grout lines first, then onto the brick face. Wipe off excess whitewash with a clean cloth as you go. Remove the painter's tape while the paint is still wet, then allow the paint to dry overnight. Does thinning paint affect the quality of its finish? answer: Most paints are ready to go right out of the can with no reduction necessary. Some products can be reduced to some degree, and the instructions on the container should indicate the maximum reduction allowed (if any) and the correct type of reducer. Reducing paint product past the recommended levels will not give you the same performance characteristics or finish quality. Always use the solvent or mixing agent recommended by the manufacturer. What’s the best way to stain a concrete floor? Etching stain is an acid-based product that can change a basic gray, concrete slab into a colored finished floor. Applied as a liquid to a damp concrete floor using a garden sprayer, the stain chemically reacts with minerals in the concrete to create a permanent finish. Coating the stain with a clear sealer will enhance the look and help resist stains. It is critical to first make sure the floor is clean before staining. Make sure to remove all residue of grease, oil, paint, wax or sealants. Scrubbing the surface with trisodium phosphate (TSP) or baking soda will promote even absorption of the stain and a strong bond with the sealer. Apply water to the concrete and note any areas where water beads on the surface. Clean these areas again until water can be absorbed into the concrete. For heavily soiled surfaces, consider using a cleaner-etcher-degreaser such as Bond-Lok from Quikrete. Because the etching stain contains acid, be sure to exercise all necessary safety precautions, including the use of a respirator that filters hydrochloric acid. Remove excess etching residue with water, a scrub brush and a wet/dry vac. Allow the stain to dry completely before applying the clear coat. Is oil paint the best choice for painting metal? Choose paint specifically designed for use on metal surfaces, which will provide better protection against corrosion and wear than oil paint. Look for paints that contain protective properties such as rust inhibitors, water repellency, or UV light resistance. Make sure to thoroughly prep the metal surface before painting. Clean the metal to remove any dirt, grease, rust, or contaminants. Use a wire brush, sandpaper, or scuffing pad to remove any corrosion or old paint. Make sure the metal is completely dry before applying primer and paint. It’s a good idea to apply metal-surface primer after you’ve cleaned and prepared the surface. This will promote better paint adhesion and a more uniform finish.

Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at some of the different woodwork and trim topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. What is the best way to repair the rotted wood at the bottom of exterior door casing? For minor damage, you can remove the rotted material with a chisel and wire brush then apply a liquid repair product such as Durham’s Water Putty or wood epoxy. Spackle the patch into a similar shape as the surrounding trim and allow it to dry. Once the patch hardens, sand the repair flush then seal it with primer and paint. For larger damage, you might have to cut out the wood to replace it. In some cases, you can replace the rotted wood with a block of PVC. Nail it in place and fasten with construction glue, then sand, caulk, and paint to blend with the trim. Avoid painting PVC dark colors, however, because dark shades can absorb the sun’s heat which can melt the plastic, deforming its shape. For dark painted repairs, replace the rotted trim with pressure-treated wood instead, but first coat all sides of the wood block with a couple coats of primer-sealant. Finish the repair by sealing all joints with a quality exterior caulk, then applying exterior-grade paint. In all cases, make sure to leave a gap between the bottom of the casing and the ground to avoid contact with standing water. Is it necessary to replace the jamb when upgrading an interior door? For interiors, if your doorframe is in good shape, installing only a “’slab,” also called a “blank door,” should work because an interior door doesn’t need the same weather-tight seal as a pre-hung door that includes the jamb. You’ll need to measure the old door and buy a “blank” door the same standard size. Replacement usually requires you to measure the bottom of the new door and trim it down. You will need to mark and chisel out mortises to screw on the hinge plates, and you’ll need a drill plus a hole saw to install the lockset and doorknob. How can I bend wood like I’ve seen on other people’s furniture projects? We know of two ways to bend wood. The first is called kerf-cutting, which is the process of cutting a number of parallel slots into a piece of material that allow it to bend. Kerf refers to the width of material a sawblade removes when it cuts through wood. Kerf-cutting creates many closely positioned saw cuts across one face of a board which extend from edge to edge but are not deep enough to penetrate the opposite face. Essentially, by kerfing the wood, you are making the material on one side of the board thinner, so it can be flexed to follow a curve. While this method is not very strong, it does allow for easy forming of wide or tall parts for decorative use. Another method to create a curved piece of wood is to heat it with steam. Some woods such as oak respond well to steam-bending, and thinner stock sizes will bend easier (with less breakage) than thicker stock. You can find detailed instructions online for steam-bending. In general, you’ll need to make a box or container to enclose the board. A 4-in. diameter PVC drain pipe is a common steam container. The box should be sloped with a drain hole on one end and equipped with a removable cap. Use a wallpaper steamer or similar device to push steam into an intake port along the top. Steam the wood for roughly one hour per each inch of its thickness. Remove the board with tongs, set it into a form or clamps to bend it into shape, then allow it to cool and stiffen. I want to add a couple of partition walls in our basement, but if I build the wall frames to the exact height between the floor and ceiling, then I’ll never have the clearance to tilt it into place. How much shorter should the walls be than the floor-to-ceiling height? Many pros recommend cutting the wall studs 5/16 inch short for your basement application, which allows space for a sill gasket and a little wiggle room when tilting the wall into place. We have a painted wood handrail with a big hole through the top 1x6 rail where a knot dislodged from the wood. I’d rather repair the rail than replace it. What’s the best way to patch the hole? First, clean away any rotten wood or loose debris from the hole. Screw or clamp a small scrap board against the underside of the hole to give it a “floor.” Fill the hole with a wood dowel that has been cut to fit flush or just below the surface of the board. Use a liquid repair product (making sure the product is sandable and paintable) to fill the remainder of the hole around the wood piece. Either wood-repair epoxy or Bondo will make good repair products. Tool the surface flush with the rail and allow the patch to dry completely. Then, unscrew the scrap board and repeat the liquid repair procedure on the opposite side of the hole (including repair of any screw holes). Once the repair has dried, sand both sides smooth, then prime and paint the area to match the rail. How do I fasten together cement boards to make window shutters out of Hardie Trimboard? We do not recommend that you fabricate window shutters from Hardie Trimboard. We turned directly to the experts at James Hardie Co. to field this question, and here is their response: “Unfortunately, we do not recommend our trim products be used to make shutters. It is not structural and there is no reliable way to attach Hardie to Hardie.” As an alternative, try building shutters from Western Red Cedar or Cypress, because the boards tend to remain straight over time, and the wood’s natural oils protect it from insect infestation and rot. How do I stop a split in a wood slab from opening further? I have a slab that I’d like to use for a coffee table, but I don’t want it to split apart in the future. Woodworkers often use a “bowtie joint” AKA “butterfly joint” or “Dutchman joint” to stabilize cracks. These joints use a dovetail key to reinforce a crack in a piece of wood. The joint is made by insetting the dovetail key in the wood surface to bridge both sides of the crack. Made of metal or hardwood, a dovetail key resembles two dovetails connected at the narrow part, forming a bowtie shape. A negative of the bowtie shape is cut out of the cracked board, and the dovetail key is then fitted flush with the wood surface, keeping the joint together. Dovetail keys will stop a crack in wood from getting larger and can be used as an aesthetic element or on the underside of a wood slab to be unseen. Shown is a metal bowtie for inlay in a wood slab. Photo courtesy www.Wisebond.com I would like to carve a couple of creative accent pieces for a fireplace mantel. What are the best types of wood for carving? According to the experts at Schaaf Tools, which manufactures woodcarving tools, beginning carvers should begin with a block of carving wood that holds detail and is relatively easy to carve. Basswood (aka Linden) is a soft wood that holds detail well, is light cream colored with streaks of brown, and has a smooth, even grain. Butternut (sometimes called white walnut) is a soft wood that holds detail well and has a medium coarse texture. Butternut is easy to work with hand tools but can dull tools quickly, so have your sharpener ready. Aspen is technically a hardwood, but a “soft” hardwood, and still easy to carve. White Pine is best for whittling, relief carving, or carving in the round, but it is not suited for chip carving because it has a soft, straight-grained texture. Black Walnut is a bit more expensive and a little harder but is still straight-grained and fairly easy to carve. These woods are relatively inexpensive and easy to find.

Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at some of the different lawn and landscape topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. How can I kill kudzu? Follow the kudzu vines down to the ground until you find the nodes/crown. Use a handsaw to cut the vines as close to the crown as possible and treat it with herbicide. Treat within 5-10 minutes, otherwise, the wound will dry and the herbicide will not be absorbed. Use a high concentrate (between 18-50 percent) glyphosate-based herbicide solution. An indicator dye will help keep track of what areas have been treated. Be sure not to spray the herbicide anywhere but on the woody stem. Repeat applications may be necessary. A local landscaper recommended we install a “dry creek bed” to help with drainage in our yard. How does that work? A dry creek bed made of stone can provide a natural drainage solution. By redirecting the flow of water during rainy weather, the creek bed can protect your house foundation and prevent excess water from pooling in low spots on your property. A dry creek bed is a shallow trench lined with landscape fabric and filled with boulders and stones of various sizes. With a little planning, it can also serve as an attractive, organic landscape feature that needs little maintenance. Arrange the bed in a curving course down the slope of the yard. Line the edges of the trench with the heaviest stones, using the flattest shapes for capstones along the borders. Incorporate plants along the sides for more decorative appeal. Slope the soil at the edges toward the bottom of the trench and line the creek bed with smaller rocks. Remember that it is illegal to channel the water into the street or onto someone else’s property, so aim for a zone within your property lines where the water can pool and soak into the soil. What is the best type of rock to line a linear French drain? Your landscape supply store will likely have a few varieties of stone sold as “drainage rock,” but some of these selections are decorative in nature, meaning they look nice when exposed but are more expensive than what you’ll need for a buried trench. For the best drainage, look for coarse washed rock (gravel) that is screened, with a stone size of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Smaller rock with fine particles could clog the holes of the drain pipe. Pea stone works, but the smooth stones settle together and don’t move as much water as coarse rock. The more rock and larger the trench, the more water the drain can handle and the longer it will perform correctly. Can you lay sod in the winter? The winter is one of the best times to lay sod throughout the southern parts of the United States. There are even a few benefits to winter installation of warm season turfgrass sod, such as zoysia, Bermuda grass, and St. Augustine. It’s true that freezing temperatures could mean the sod’s roots/rhizomes freeze, harming your newly laid sod. However, more sod is actually lost to heat stress in the summer than to winter’s moderate freezes. Even if outdoor temperatures reach the freezing point in certain areas, it is still okay to lay sod. However, it’s ill-advised to install sod when temperatures start to reach the teens on a frequent basis. A geographic line can be drawn right before Greenville, SC. In fact, some of the best areas to install sod during the winter are located in growing zones 8b–11, located throughout the lower US. Laying sod in winter can provide a head start with establishment in the spring—and require less water and fertilizer while it establishes. Why is my grass turning brown? If your grass is dying or turning brown, we recommend getting a soil test through your local university extension office. A dying lawn might be due to general maintenance problems, such as improper fertilization, poor soil, or bad mowing habits. A soil test is the best way to ensure you are providing the proper nutrition your lawn needs. A quick internet search for “Soil Test” in your state will yield private and public testing options. Poor turf performance is often due to too much or too little water. Most grass varieties need half to one inch of water per week. Spread waterings apart as much as possible and avoid watering every day. Stressing your grass a little will train it to put down deeper roots and hold more water inside those roots. Overwatering is one of the biggest lawn issues, and it is completely unnecessary. The most telling sign of drought stress is the curling or shriveling of leaves followed by the grass turning brown. If you have St. Augustine, it is critical to get water into the plant if those signs are present. If you have a Zoysia or Bermuda, the grass will simply go dormant and then return to normal once watering resumes. Celebration and Empire are excellent at withstanding drought stress, surviving 90 days without water. Many types of fungus can harm your lawn and are most prevalent in Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Tall Fescue. Fungus thrives in moist soil conditions, so when the ground is constantly wet, it is in danger of fungus attack. Prevent this is with a systemic preventative fungicide application twice a year at a very light rate. Most fungus will appear symmetrical or circular. If you see this, act quickly to apply a curative fungicide. Both liquid and granular will work. Mix up active ingredients over time and carefully follow application rates to avoid harming your lawn. Does grass seed go bad? Grass seed has a shelf life, and “going bad” means it loses its ability to germinate effectively. Typically, grass seed remains at peak viability for 1–2 years, but this can vary based on factors like seed type, quality and storage conditions. High-quality seeds generally have stronger embryos, making them more resistant to environmental stress. Expired grass seeds can show visible signs of deterioration, including clumping, mold or an unpleasant odor. Look for discoloration, a matte finish or brittleness. Bad seed may also contain debris, such as stems or roots. If in doubt, conduct a float test by placing a handful of seeds in water. If most sink, they are likely still good. Using expired seed can result in poor lawn establishment, with bald spots and thin patches. Investing in fresh seed with high germination rates makes a thriving green lawn more likely. To extend the life of your grass seed, store it correctly. The ideal conditions are cool, dry and dark. Seal opened bags tightly or transfer seeds into airtight containers to protect from moisture, pests and temperature extremes. — Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Valerie Smith, content strategist with Sod Solutions , for help with the lawncare advice. Learn more at Sod University .

Over the last several years, the HIR staff has been asked and has answered a multitude of questions regarding home improvement, maintenance and around-the-house repairs. Here’s a look back at some of the different deck and fencing topics and tips we’ve covered for our readers. What’s the best way to clean mold off a wood fence? Bleach does a good job of cleaning off mold and mildew, but the type bleach makes a difference. Chlorine bleach does a fine job removing superficial mold, but it’s not as effective killing mold on porous surfaces such as outdoor wood, because the mold’s enzyme roots grow inside the pores. Chlorine bleach can’t penetrate the porous material due to its ionic structure, so the mold problem will likely return. Chlorine bleach also damages the lignin in the wood, which is what bonds the wood fibers together, and this will make it more prone to aging and splintering along the surface. An alternative is to use oxygen bleach. An ingredient found in laundry detergent, oxygen bleach cleans fabrics without disrupting the color or damaging the material. It can be combined with water, applied to the wood and allowed to soak for 10 or 15 minutes, then it can be scrubbed and rinsed off with a garden hose. Oxygen bleach cleans the wood without damaging the fibers or harming the surrounding vegetation, so there’s no need to use drop cloths for protection. If I want to build a circular shaped deck, how do I bend the board along the edge? On most decks, the outer band or rim joist is made of the same lumber as the other joists, which means it doesn’t bend. To create a curved rim joist, a popular technique involves layering thin sheets of weather-resistant plywood onto the framing. These sheets are installed one layer at a time using clamps, adhesives, and fasteners, building up to a thicker, structural board through this lamination process.  Composite deck fascia is made from the same material as composite deck boards, but it is thinner, which makes it flexible. This flexibility allows composite deck fascia to bend along its length, making it suitable for wrapping around curved decks to match the deck boards. An unusually tight radius might require the application of heat to the fascia board to increase its flexibility.   I’m trying to determine board sizes and beam spans for a backyard deck. Can you clarify the meaning of “live” versus “dead” loads when designing the deck frame? The concept of “load” in structural design generally falls into two major categories: dead loads and live loads, which are forces that cause stress or displacement to the structure and risk its failure. The dead load of a structure comprises its completed weight before it goes into service. The floors, walls, roof, columns, stairs, permanent equipment and any fixed decor constitute a static load that normally doesn’t change over the life of the structure. In other words, the dead load is calculated before the structure takes on additional loads from occupancy or use (including the weight and movement of any people and components). Live loads refer to the dynamic forces from occupancy and intended use. They represent the forces that can move through the building or act on any particular structural element. These loads include the anticipated weight of people, furniture, appliances, automobiles, moveable equipment and the like. Because live loads depend on structural strength, it’s critical to know of the exact planned use of the structure—for example, whether the structure is a roof for a pergola or a deck intended to carry the weight of foot traffic. To pass building code requirements, a structure must also be built to withstand dynamic lateral loads, which can come from wind, snow loads, soil movement and even seismic activity. If you have doubts about the design of your deck, we suggest you consult a structural engineer. Why do deck-building instructions require fastening a ledger board’s lag bolts in a zig-zag pattern rather than a straight line? The staggered pattern of the lag-screw or through-bolt locations ensures there’s enough wood around and between the fasteners to reduce splitting the ledger board. The recommended pattern also recommends minimum and maximum distances the two rows of fasteners can be spaced apart to achieve maximum holding power while not splitting the wood.

By John O'Reilly Dino and Beth Gregorich moved to San Diego County, California, almost four years ago. Thanks to mostly sunny days year-round there, outdoor living is every bit as robust as indoor living. That’s why the couple made sure their new home had a swimming pool and an outdoor patio. But as the Gregorichs enjoyed their pool and hot tub, they soon realized having a changing room and a bathroom nearby would be very convenient, if not an outright necessity — especially since it would eliminate the need for guests to walk through the house, dripping wet, to use the facilities. As luck would have it, the couple already had a large 8 x 16 foot storage shed behind their pool that could easily be converted into a half-bath and changing room. There was just one major challenge hindering this idea: They would need to break through 30 feet of concrete to run sewer lines from the shed to the house’s sewer access pipe. According to Dino Gregorich, it was too expensive to tear through that much concrete. They knew they had to find an easier, more affordable plumbing solution. The Gregorichs weren’t ready to let go of their outdoor-bathroom dream just yet. San Diego Homeowners Create Stunning Swimming Pool Half-Bath with Saniflo Sanicompact Macerating System The half-bath inside the converted storage shed, showing the self-contained Sanicompact, dual-flush macerating toilet on the right, next to the small hand-washing sink. Solution After doing some research online, Gregorich came across the ideal solution. “I would search phrases like ‘pump-up system’ and, in the process, came across Saniflo. I immediately knew that its above-floor products would solve our problem.”   The couple decided to go with the Sanicompact, a self-contained, dual-flush macerating toilet system, designed specifically for small spaces. This modern-looking, one-piece toilet is engineered to use as little as one gallon per flush. In fact, the dual-flush feature was particularly appealing to Gregorich. “You can use light flush with less water [1 gallon per flush] and a full flush with more (1.28 gpf),” he explains. “In San Diego, we pay a fortune for water, so we try to save as much as possible. Ultra-low-flush, high-efficiency toilets are very important here.”  The macerating system also offered another key benefit for Gregorich’s application: It allowed for the draining of a second fixture: a small, hand-washing sink.  The Sanicompact combines a vitreous china toilet bowl and a built-in macerator and pump in one compact unit, measuring only 18-1/2" H x 14-1/2" W x 21-1/2" D. It can be used to create a half-bath (two fixtures) up to 9 feet below the sewer line, or even up to 120 feet away from a soil stack. The system can handle human waste and toilet paper in residential applications and needs no gravity-flow tank. That’s because the flushing action and macerating pump cycle are triggered by pressing a push-button on top of the unit. The flushing mechanism is electrically timed to allow water to pass through the toilet. The discharge elbow on the back of the Sanicompact can be rotated 360 degrees to fit any type of installation. A non-return valve, which ships attached to the discharge elbow, prevents backflow into the unit. As mentioned earlier, the Sanicompact will also discharge gray water from a sink. The wastewater drains through a 1-1/4-inch connection in the back of the toilet. The Sanicompact is a self-contained dual-flush toilet system used to install a half-bathroom up to 9 feet below the sewer line, or even up to 120 feet away from a soil stack. It incorporates a macerating system which can handle human waste and toilet paper in residential applications. The blade is made out of a hardened stainless steel material which eliminates the need for any service or replacement. Gregorich decided to take on this installation project himself, since he had many years of experience as a do-it-yourselfer, installing a swimming pool solar heater, as well as  water heaters, water conditioners and even whole bathrooms. To discharge the Sanicompact, Gregorich connected a 1-inch PVC pipe to the discharge elbow on the back of the unit. Since sharp bends and angles could be detrimental to system performance, Gregorich followed his nephew’s advice on how to carefully bend the PVC pipe, using a sand-fill method. 1-inch PVC pipe is connected to Sanicompact’s discharge elbow on the back of the unit, running seven feet vertically to exit the shed. The non-return valve, which Saniflo ships is attached to the discharge elbow. It prevents backflow into the unit. The main water line coming from the outdoor spigot runs to both hot and cold lines. The wastewater drains through this 1-1/4-inch connection in the back of the toilet. The shed itself was already wired with the recommended Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) circuit for the nearby pool, so Gregorich could easily plug in the Sanicompact to this existing power source. The outdoor spigot (bottom of photo on the right) was positioned close enough to the shed to serve as a water source. “It’s pretty simple,” he explains. “Just fill the PVC pipe with fresh, clean, play sand. Then plug both ends and lightly heat the pipe with a torch. It will bend without collapsing. I used this technique to build every bend in the system — from the Sanicompact all the way to the house — with nicely curved, smooth turns. I was trying to make sure there was minimal resistance to go that distance.” Gregorich ran the discharge pipe from the Sanicompact seven feet vertically where it exits the shed. From there, the pipe runs 80 feet along the yard’s privacy fence before connecting to the municipal sewage access pipe. The seven-foot vertical rise was necessary, given how far the access pipe sits from the house. “We made sure we were well within specifications for drainage,” says Gregorich. He connected the small sink to the Sanicompact with the PVC connector discharge pipe that came with the system. The discharge pipe from the Sanicompact exits the shed and runs 80 feet along the yard’s privacy fence before connecting to the municipal sewage access pipe. (Note: Saniflo does not recommend running plumbing exposed and suggests installations be done per relevant local plumbing codes.) Fortunately, an existing outdoor spigot was positioned close enough to the shed to serve as a water source. Gregorich decided to have only cold water in the shed, so he ran the main water line to both the hot and cold lines.  The shed itself was already wired with the recommended Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) circuit for the nearby pool, so he could easily plug in the Sanicompact to this existing power source. Installing the Sanicompact took less than a day, recalls Gregorich. “After a couple of weekends fixing up the shed, installing all the components and adding all the delicate touches, our swimming pool half-bathroom room was ready for use.”  Results The Gregorichs count themselves as pleased with the convenience of an attractive outdoor bathroom close by the swimming pool and hot tub. “If we went the conventional route, we would’ve had to jackhammer all that concrete,” he says. That would’ve taken weeks and cost thousands of dollars,” effectively rendering the project impractical. The Sanicompact has been in operation for over a year and has performed well, according to its owner. “I haven’t had any problems, and we use the Sanicompact almost daily to make sure it’s operational. My guests love having it. I mean, it’s right next to the hot tub!” “Without the Saniflo solution, we would never have been able to have such a nice addition to our outdoor living space!” -- For more information SFA SANIFLO U.S.A. – whose parent company originated macerating plumbing technology — offers a complete line of waste and drainage pumping systems for residential and commercial applications. Saniflo developed its innovative, “above-floor plumbing” technology more than a half-century ago and has led its commercialization worldwide. Contact Saniflo at 1-800-571-8191 or visit www.sfasaniflo.com .

By Courtney Klosterman   Deep cleaning has more benefits than you may think. In addition to refreshing your space for the new season, tidying up can help make your home safer in emergencies, help you catch issues early, and improve your home’s health.   The annual Housepower Report survey from Hippo insurance company found that unexpected maintenance issues affected 83 percent of homeowners in 2024. And almost half (46%) spent over $5,000 out-of-pocket on unexpected home repairs in 2024.   Homeowners can avoid unexpected repairs this year by checking these critical items off their spring-cleaning checklist.   Deep cleaning your home’s interior can help you spot signs of mold or water damage that you may not have noticed otherwise. This can include commonly overlooked areas like vents and carpets.   ·        Sweep out irritants and allergens that may have settled in during the winter and to spot early signs of potential problems. This includes checking and cleaning hard-to-reach or time-consuming areas like ceiling fans, exhaust fans, and soft surfaces (like cushioned furniture).   ·        Remove unnecessary clutter around your home and clear pathways to all exits. Collections of old newspapers, cardboard boxes, and even cluttered kitchen counters can cause a fire risk.   ·        Shampoo carpets and clean hard surfaces to remove any existing buildup of dirt and spills that could lead to long-term damage. Once your hard surfaces are clean, use floor sealants to help prevent moisture from penetrating your floor and increase its longevity. For extra protection, add a sturdy welcome mat at your front door and heavy rugs in high-traffic areas to help protect your floor from rainy or muddy shoes. Use a scrub brush with stiff, plastic bristles to pull hair and grime from deep in the fibers of your carpet. Homemade cleaning agents include mixing equal parts of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle or mixing a few drops of mild dish soap with warm water. For tougher stains, mix hydrogen peroxide (3%) with water (1:1 ratio). Sprinkle baking soda directly on the carpet to absorb odors. ·        To give your dishwasher and washing machine a refresh, pour a couple of cups of white vinegar in the machine and run a hot cycle—particularly if you have hard water, which can cause calcium buildup.. This does more than make the appliance look better; it actually keeps it running longer.   ·        Cleaning your dryer vent can help your clothes dry faster and minimize the potential for fires. Clear your lint traps between each laundry load and inspect your dryer vents for blockages regularly. Clean the exterior dryer vent that helps move lint, moisture, and hot air out of the dryer. To clean it, you’ll need to unplug and move the dryer away from the wall, detach the hose from the dryer, and then go outside to brush and vacuum out debris.   ·        To keep drains clog-free, pour a cup of white distilled vinegar down them a couple of times a month. Let the vinegar sit for about 30-45 minutes, then flush with cold water. When deep-cleaning the kitchen drains, don’t forget the garbage disposal. Disconnect the unit’s power, throw on a pair of rubber gloves, and wipe down the unit with your preferred cleanser until debris is removed. Steam cleaning technology is a new trend in tile grout restoration. Steam-cleaning machines convert ordinary tap water into a low-moisture, extremely high-temperature water vapor under low pressure to remove soil, grease and built-up filth from most home surfaces. These machines usually come with various cleaning attachments are available for both commercial and homeowner use. (Photo © Wagner ) Windows & Doors Windows and doors can become entry points for rain, wind, and debris without proper maintenance. Snow and rain from the winter may have also taken their toll on weatherstripping, caulking, screens, and other parts of your windows and doors.   ·        Inspect seals and caulking around doors for missing chunks, mold, peeling, and other signs that they need to be repaired and replaced.   ·        Inspect window and door screens for tears, rust, debris, and mold. You can use a screen repair kit to address small tears or holes and clean off mold and debris yourself. Replace the entire screen for major issues like large tears or extensive rust on metal frames. Well-maintained screens help prevent water from pooling near your window and keep hail from hitting windows and doors directly.   ·        Consider installing storm doors if your external doors are susceptible to damage from severe weather. Storm doors can also help improve insulation, and their screens can help ventilate your home on warmer days. Critical Systems Severe weather can strain your critical systems, especially if they aren’t being regularly serviced or maintained. A HVAC system breakdown can cause major stress and headaches, leaving your household susceptible to sudden temperature changes and unexpected repair costs. If a critical system like your HVAC system is already struggling, severe storms can exacerbate the issue and may lead to prematurely needing a replacement. According to Home Dept, an HVAC tune-up can cost about $99 and up, while a new HVAC system can cost between $5,000 and $12,000.   ·        Replace HVAC filters and clean air ducts and vents to help prevent the buildup of allergens, dust, or mold that may have accumulated during the winter. Clear debris around outside units and vacuum and dust interior units to help your HVAC work efficiently, last longer, and help keep your home comfortable. ·        Some HVAC professionals recommend adding a half cup of chlorine bleach to the HVAC system’s condensation reservoir to help inhibit algae growth which can clog the condensation drain.    ·        Check and   test all of your pipes, connections, hoses, and areas around plumbing fixtures for signs of leaks, loose connections, or damaged seals and grout. Address pipe and sewage line clogs right away to help prevent backups during storms. Heavy rain can exacerbate existing plumbing issues, leading to blockages, leaks, or burst pipes.   ·        Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and replace old batteries. Check and test all fire extinguishers to see if they’re still working and whether it’s time to replace or recharge (refill) them. Weather hazards like lightning and thunderstorms can indirectly lead to fires by causing power surges and physically downing structures like power lines.   ·        Inspect and drain the hot water heater. Begin by draining whatever water is left in the tank (don't forget your bucket), then stir up the sediment at the bottom of the tank by opening the cold-water supply valve briefly. Keep repeating this process until the water comes out clean from the hose.     About the author: Courtney Klosterman is home insights expert at Hippo   insurance. For more, visit www.hippo.com . -- Side Note Scrigit Scraper The Scrigit is an inexpensive, pen-sized, non-scratch cleaning device that provides a quick and convenient way to remove small amounts of unwanted substances from household and automotive surfaces, edges, and grooves where a metal scraper would scratch or damage the work surface. It can be used instead of fingernails and metal tools to quickly clean off small areas of unwanted substances, such as grime, caulk, putty, wax, latex paint, dried food, adhesive stickers, labels and tape. The Scrigit is two scrapers in one. A rounded tip simulates the scraping shape of a fingernail for scraping off small spots, cleaning curved surfaces, and removing adhesive labels, stickers and tape. The flat-edged tip is best for getting into tight spaces and cleaning off unwanted materials from flat surfaces, edges, corners and door tracks. Two sizes are available made in the USA of a durable plastic resin that easily washes clean and won’t conduct electricity. www.scrigit-scraper.com

New tools and supplies for summer projects and beyond!   Metabo HPT 18V Cordless MultiVolt Framing Nailers The 18V MultiVolt 30-deg. 3-1/2-in. Paper Tape Framing Nailer  and the 18V MultiVolt 21-deg. 3-1/2-in. Plastic Strip Framing Nailer both now weigh a full pound less. These tools are lighter, more compact, and perfectly balanced, making them even easier to handle and maneuver. With an impressive 120 joules of power, you will easily drive up to 3-1/2-inch nails into tough materials like laminated veneer lumber, while the aggressive nose design ensures a secure grip during angle nailing. The redesigned control panel is now more accessible and easier to read, simplifying operation. Plus, with enhanced indicator lighting and a new LED light, visibility is improved, ensuring a smooth and seamless workflow. The upgraded aluminum magazines not only boost durability but also makes nail swaps quicker and more convenient. www.metabo-hpt.com   Wagner SprayTech PowerFlow EZ Roller The PowerFlow EZ Roller is designed for painting large rooms, multiple rooms and ceilings with greater ease and efficiency than traditional paint rollers. Powered by an electric motor, the roller draws paint directly from a one-gallon or five-gallon paint container. The Auto-Feed Control on the roller handle provides on-demand, continuous paint flow for fast, even, drip-free coverage. Designed for use with latex and oil-based coatings, the PowerFlow EZ Roller is lightweight and portable. Wagner’s innovative Click-Attach™ Arm mounts the power roller to a paint container securely, which also makes moving from room to room easier. Cleanup is easy; simply flush the roller and the handle with water or solvent. For painting tall walls and ceilings, the PowerFlow EZ Roller features a lengthy 16 ft. hose for feeding paint to the roller. It also has an extension connection handle that accepts common threaded extension poles.   www.homedepot.com   Bosch   18V-1/2-In. Brushless Hammer Drill/Driver (GSB18V-65) From driving screws and drilling wood to making pilot holes for concrete fasteners, the Bosch GSB18V-65 18-volt, 1/2-inch hammer-drill/driver does it all. Features include a powerful brushless motor, dual LED work lights for better visibility, and Switchable Kickback Control, which reduces the risk of a sudden rotational torque reaction in a bind-up scenario, with the option to deactivate. The Rapid Mode Selector swiftly shifts between hammering, drilling and driving modes without the need to adjust the clutch. www.boschtools.com       Dust Deputy Low-Pro Lid Separator At 4 inches tall, the Dust Deputy Low-Pro is Oneida Air Systems' most compact separator, able to fit underneath a workbench and in other tight spaces. Uniquely designed to offer up to 50-percent more airflow (CFM) and allow debris to pass through unobstructed—two common limitations of other lid-style separators—the Dust Deputy Low-Pro excels in its ability to collect a variety of materials, from wood dust to trash, and more. Like the original Dust Deputy cyclone, the new Dust Deputy Low-Pro pre-separates up to 99.9 percent of dust and debris before it reaches your vacuum's filter, eliminating clogging and suction loss while extending the life of your filter. Made from clear, durable resin and designed for vacuums with 2.5-inch hoses, the Low-Pro lid separator attaches to any standard 5-gallon bucket with included latches. It’s also designed, tested, and manufactured in the USA. The anti-static Dust Deputy Low-Pro Lid Separator includes rubber locking bucket latches, 3-foot vacuum connection hose, 2.5-inch hose elbow adapter, and Neoprene foam lid gasket. www.oneida-air.com     DeWalt XR Quiet Hydraulic 20V Max 1/4” Brushless Impact Driver Complete framing, cabinetry, and other applications in tight areas with DeWalt’s quietest impact driver. The 20V MAX XR Brushless cordless 1/4 in. Quiet Hydraulic Impact Driver helps reduce noise disturbance in sensitive environments with up to 57 percent quieter operation. Featuring an advanced hydraulic mechanism, this impact driver delivers consistent performance for demanding applications in tough conditions. According to DeWalt, this is the industry's highest rated max torque hydraulic impact driver (up to 250 percent faster driving 5 lags versus Milwaukee). Help illuminate work areas with the driver’s 9 LEDs, featuring a 20-minute work light mode.   www.dewalt.com   FrogTape   Double-Sided Containment Tape FrogTape Double-Sided Poly-Hanging Containment Tape is a one-step solution for hanging poly sheeting for dust containment when working on interior remodeling projects. It saves half the time compared to hanging with standard methods. With a premium-grade painter's tape adhesive on one side and an aggressive adhesive on the other, this all-in-one tape securely holds poly sheeting and ensures protection of surfaces. Side one has a premium painter's tape adhesive that won't damage surfaces and offers 21-day clean removal; side two has an aggressive adhesive to securely hold the poly sheeting and ensure protection of surfaces. Use it to hang sheeting, tarps and other protective coverings to create containment systems for tasks such as painting, cleaning, sanding, mold remediation, asbestos removal and more . It can be used on a variety of surfaces, including painted walls, woodwork, glass, metal and vinyl. The tape is repositionable and conformable, and it also works well for mounting flyers and posters.   www.frogtape.com     Ladder Latch Pro   Ladder Latch Pro secures and stabilizes a ladder. Its innovative, patent-pending design prevents the ladder from sliding or falling, creating a stable base to work from. Contractors, including roofers, tuckpointers, gutter installers, and home inspectors, rely on its quick installation and reliable stability to enhance their safety and efficiency on job sites. DIY’ers, tackling projects like gutter cleaning, hanging holiday lights, roof repairs, or other exterior maintenance, find it invaluable for providing peace of mind while working at heights. Painters and installers also appreciate its ability to stabilize ladders during demanding exterior tasks. It works on all gutters with or without gutter guard. It fits all extension ladders and allows you to extend the ladder past the roofline. This ladder stabilizer keeps the ladder secure even when kicked or bumped. It is made of high-impact plastic and stainless steel, and the ladder-grip technology includes non-slip coating on the touchpoints. www.ladderlatchpro.com     Mayhew   Dominator Curved Pry Bars in Blue Mayhew Steel Products expands their Dominator Pro Pry Bar line  with the latest addition of 48- and 58-inch blue curved pry bars in blue, part numbers 14119BL and 14120BL. Crafted from hardened and tempered alloy steel, the bar’s shaft runs from the cutting edge through the handle, delivering unmatched durability and prying power. Made in the USA, these tools are ideal for any prying or lifting tasks. A capped end reinforces the product's versatility, allowing for striking without damage to the handle, while also incorporating an added shock absorber to reduce hand fatigue during extended use. The patented two-composite handle features an ergonomic design that ensures superior grip and comfort, even in challenging conditions. www.mayhew.com   Ryobi 40V HP Brushless 800 CFM Blower The new 40V HP Brushless 800 CFM Blower delivers more power, runtime, durability, and speed by utilizing a powerful brushless motor, advanced electronics, and high-performance lithium technology. This next-generation blower produces more power than a 31cc gas blower, and it’s also 82 percent quieter. With 800 CFM and 180 MPH, it is ideal for tackling tough tasks, damp/dry leaves, and compacted grass. Get to work quickly by reaching full throttle in under one second for instant power. With two modes, users can select between maximizing power or maximizing runtime and achieve over 85 minutes of runtime with the 40V 8Ah battery included in the kit.   www.HomeDepot.com       Milwaukee Workwear Collections for Fall Milwaukee Tool continues their commitment to delivering workwear that enhances comfort, movement, and protection for professionals on the jobsite. Expanding the FreeFlex, GridIron and WorkSkin collections, Milwaukee introduces new gear designed to withstand jobsite demands while ensuring flexibility and durability. Designed for flexibility and comfort, the FreeFlex Lightweight Insulated Vest provides unrestricted movement with shoulder and side body mobility panels. Durability meets comfort in the Women’s GridIron Long Sleeve Pocket Tee, crafted from a 6oz cotton/poly blend for reliable protection. Optimized for cold conditions, the WorkSkin Low-Profile Beanie wicks away sweat while providing enhanced warmth. The brushed fleece interior provides enhanced warmth, while the 360° stretch design ensures a snug, comfortable fit. www.milwaukeetool.com

By Roderick Kabel A popular epoxy technique is to encapsulate objects within it. Either sentimental memorabilia, everyday objects such as rocks, bottle caps, photos, coins, deceased bugs, figurines, or even… bullets. Yikes! Embedding and encapsulating objects, whatever they might be, offers a unique way of showcasing exciting uses of epoxy. Depending on what materials or objects you plan to encase, there are different steps to be taken that should guarantee the optimal outcome. In no particular order, objects can be encased in either blocks of epoxy or incorporated with wood such as river tables or bars and countertops.  The Right Materials This durable type of finish is created by using a two-part epoxy resin that self-levels upon application. The epoxy can provide a clear transparent protective and can be tinted with powdered or liquid pigment colorants . Be sure to choose high-quality epoxy resins. WiseBond Epoxy Systems, for example, offers both a Deep Pour epoxy and a Bar & Table Top epoxy, both of which are known for their ease of use and high-shine, crystal clear transparency. Be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the mixing and handling of the epoxy. The Basics When pouring and embedding objects in a river table, start by creating a bottom “sacrificial layer.” Pour a layer of Table Top epoxy about 1/8" to 1/4" that will protect your embedded items from the sanding and leveling equipment you will use on the underside of the table. Once that layer is tacky or hard to the touch, you can start adding the items you want to embed on top of that epoxy layer before moving forward. However, that next step depends on the item(s) that you’re casting. You may want to pour additional thinner layers to create a level of epoxy that will suspend your objects at a particular height in the final deep pour. For lightweight, thin items that the epoxy could soak through, such as newspaper, photos, or magazine clippings, you’ll want to use a mixture of white glue and water to seal them before arranging them in the river. Wood and concrete items can be coated with Quick Set Seal epoxy, which is a penetrating resin sealer to prevent the release of air bubbles and off- gassing—and it has a fast cure time to speed up project completion. You’ll also want to secure your arranged items in place with epoxy. We prefer using Table Top epoxy or Quick Set epoxy because it will blend seamlessly with the Deep Pour epoxy. (Some glues, including hot melt glue, tend to be amber or yellow and could be seen in the final cure.) Securing the items will hold them to the river table so they will not float away during the encapsulating deep pour.  While you don’t necessarily have to secure heavier items such as rocks, tools, etc., you still need to coat your items with Quick Set or Table Top epoxy to “wet” and seal out surface air bubbles on your objects. Other troublesome bubbles can come from pockets of air that get trapped inside irregularly shaped items. You may need to consider filling holes and voids in your items with epoxy to avoid bubbles escaping during the final pour and cure. Casting Object casting is a little different than embedding items in a river table. For this, you’ll have to create a base and a mold/barrier for the casting epoxy. Whether you use wood, plastic food containers, plexiglass, or some sort of pre-made mold, it’s your preference.  The WiseBond Deep Pour epoxy will easily cast solid blocks of epoxy up to 6x6 inches—maybe larger. Whatever the size of your mold is, always be sure to seal any wood or base material on the bottom of the mold as well as seal the object(s) to be embedded with epoxy. This is again to avoid bubbles from leaching out of your objects during the final encasing thick epoxy pour. Keep in mind that pours over larger objects will have a lot of epoxy mass, which generates heat. The project can overheat. We suggest placing a fan next to the mold to keep it cool and prevent overheating during the epoxy’s exothermic reaction.  As you would during any pour, be sure you’re measuring and mixing the epoxy correctly according to the product instructions to avoid any epoxy exotherm or curing problems. Popular Projects Here are some of the most popular items we’ve seen encased in epoxy, and some tips on how to do it: • Flowers or leaves  – Any flowers, flower petals, or leaves must be dried prior to being exposed to epoxy. If any moisture remains, the plant will turn brown or moldy within the epoxy. You can press the foliage between two sheets of a napkin and place them inside or under a heavy book for five days to dry. You will want to use glue wash or a thin layer of epoxy to prevent bubbles and to secure the foliage in arrangement if you’re pouring anything thicker than a drink coaster. • Photographs, magazine, or newspaper clippings (paper products)  – Again, you’ll want to add a thin layer of watered-down white glue encompassing the magazine or newspaper clipping(s) before exposing them to epoxy. Once that’s been done, secure the items with epoxy before arranging them. • Seashells and bottle caps – These are light enough that they need to be secured with epoxy for sure. These items can also harbor pockets of air so be sure to fill voids with epoxy prior to making the thick pour.  • Rocks – Depending on how big or heavy the rocks are, you may not need to secure them in epoxy. You will still need to coat them in a thin layer of epoxy to avoid surface air bubbles before a larger pour. • Gun bullets – We do not condone or recommend using live bullets in epoxy. Although gunpowder ignites at 801–867 °F, and epoxy typically only reaches 150 °F to 175 °F, we recommend pulling the bullet round out of the casing, emptying the gunpowder, and then replacing the round in the casing to avoid any potential hazards. The choice is up to the epoxy artist, but empty casings are a safer alternative. • Gun bullet casings – The empty bullet casings will be hollow and will cause a problem with air bubbles. We suggest filling the casings with epoxy to avoid air bubbles and to give them some weight. Finishing Tip After flooding the object with the deep pour, keep an eye on the project for the next couple of hours in case it requires any maintenance. For example, table top epoxy will have bubbles in it from mixing, and tiny bubbles might form if air escapes from the objects. However, as the bubbles rise to the surface, you can easily eliminate (pop) them with a heat gun or propane torch. Allow the epoxy to cure for 72 hours before handling the finished project.