Installing a toilet is a fairly straightforward DIY project that requires no specialized tools, and the new toilet usually includes everything you need to do the job. To install the new unit, you’ll need a new gasket and two 5 /16-inch bolts to mount the bowl to the floor flange. The following instructions apply to installation of standard two-piece toilet, in which the tank and bowl are separate components. (See side note below on installing a new single-piece toilet.) STEP 1 If removing an old toilet, first shut off the water supply and flush the toilet. Use a bucket or cloth to remove any leftover water in the tank and bowl. Using a pair of pliers or small pipe wrench, remove the nut connecting the water line to the valve at the bottom left side of the tank. Remove the two nuts attaching the bowl to the floor flange with a crescent wrench. Once they’re removed, lift off the old toilet. Scrape away old gasket material to expose the plastic drain flange (the mounting base for your new toilet). Discard the old bolts. STEP 2 Place the two new 5 /16” bolts (included with toilet) in the holes located on the sides of the exposed flange, with the bolt heads inside the flange. Position the two bolts straight up and across from each other. Then put the new toilet gasket (wax ring) on the flange, with the flat side pointing up (if tapered). STEP 3 Lower the bowl straight down, centered on the wax ring; Ensure the bolts come though the holes on each side of the bowl. Apply pressure straight down; pushing the bowl over the ring and flange squeezes the wax to create a seal. STEP 4 Add washers and nuts to the protruding bolts and tighten them; be careful not to crack the bowl. STEP 5 Push a pair of 5 /16 -by-3” mounting bolts through the small holes on the tank’s bottom. Place rubber washers just beneath the bolt heads for a watertight seal. Add nuts and washers to the bolts on the underside of the tank and tighten until snug. STEP 6 Apply the sponge-rubber gasket (small side down if beveled) over the discharge tube where the tank sets on the bowl. STEP 7 Set the tank on the bowl, threading the bolts into the bolt holes on the bowl and sandwiching the gasket between the tank and bowl. STEP 8 Add metal washers and nuts to the bolts on the tank’s bottom. Hold the tank level and tighten. Keep each bolt stationary with a screwdriver while backing up the nut with a crescent wrench. (Avoid over-tightening, which can crack the porcelain.) STEP 9 Screw the flush handle to the lift arm through the hole in the tank (threaded in reverse). Connect the lift arm to the chain of the flushing ball/flapper inside the tank. STEP 10 Bolt the new toilet lid to the bowl. STEP 11 Install a new water line from the wall or floor valve to the feed valve on tank’s underside. Turn on the water, check for leaks, and try a few trial flushes. If your toilet holds water, tighten the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor. Adjust minor spacing issues or instability between the tank and bowl (or bowl and floor) with hard rubber shims. STEP 12 Once everything is in place, use a hacksaw, buzz cutter, or similar tool to cut the ends off the mounting bolts to accommodate the plastic caps. Replace the tank cover and your new toilet is ready. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in The Quick and Easy Home DIY Manual by HIR's editor Matt Weber, now available at Amazon and other fine book retailers. Side Note Installing a Single-piece Toilet One-piece toilets (such as the Kohler Santa Rosa model shown above) are popular because they integrate the tank and bowl into a single seamless design which adds a contemporary look to your bathroom. The seamless design also eliminates the joints and nooks that accumulate grime, so these toilets are very easy to clean. Furthermore, installation is further simplified by eliminating the need for tank-to-bowl bolts or a tank gasket. By combining the tank and bowl, however, these one-piece toilets are heavy—often more than 100 lbs.—so you should recruit and assistant to help lift the unit into place over the wax ring. #toilet #toiletinstall #toiletinstallation #watercloset #diytoiletinstall

Over the years, I’ve built a few projects using lumber I reclaimed from an old barn on my grandad’s property. I had just enough leftover boards to make a coffee table, so I made one. I tweaked the look of the 3/4-in. boards with a little wood stain, then fastened them onto a 3/8-in. plywood backer using 1” wood screws. The construction left a notable bit of flex in the table top, so I screwed two 1x parallel hardwood boards beneath the plywood, oriented perpendicular to the reclaimed boards. (The 1x support boards were reclaimed stair treads.) But wait! Those 1x support boards did more than just strengthen my table top. They also provided a mounting place for a pair of metal leg assemblies made by Semi Exact. The U-shaped metal legs bolt onto the table from beneath, so I used them as a spacing guide to position those 1x support boards before screwing them beneath the table top. Once they were in attached, I squared up the legs and used lag screws (4 per connection) to attach the metal legs into the 1x supports. Legs completed! The clear-coated metal finish gave an awesome “industrial” look to my rustic-style table, plus, using the legs made it soooooooo much easier to build this coffee table than constructing wood legs from scratch. Last step in construction was to measure the table, cut miters in the edging boards, then attach them around the table top them using wood glue and brad nails. Final step to complete this project is to coat the entire tabletop in clear wood epoxy … but that’s a story for another blog post. The Semi Exact company offers lots of cool-looking (and labor-saving) hardware items for construction of rustic furniture. I’ve become a fan and have a couple more projects lined up where I’ll use their products. Check out their stuff at www.semiexact.com. Construction steps -- M. Weber

Architects and home-builders know the advantages of glulam beams, but the average homeowner probably doesn’t realize all that this building material can offer for major remodels and building expansions. Homes are often constructed of wood framing that is generally supported by a system of posts and beams, but the available sizes of solid wood beams don’t always offer adequate support for heavy loads over long spans. To support heavy loads over long, uninterrupted spans, builders and architects can turn to concrete or steel, or use beams made of engineered wood, such as glulam beams. “Glulam” is short for structural glued-laminated timber. These large beams are fabricated by bonding layers of specially selected lumber with strong, durable adhesives, enabling production of longer and wider structural wood members than are normally available. Engineered I-beams and other alternatives can also be used, but Glulam beams have a unique advantage: They’re good looking. Glulam has the natural and attractive appearance of solid wood, unlike the visible OSB webbing of an I-beam. This feature gives glulam beams a decorative advantage for applications where the framing components might be visible, such as a large pergola-style roof, the exposed beams of a timber-frame ceiling, or when removing a wall to open a floor plan. Glulam beams can be used for almost any type of structure, and the material is one-sixth the weight of a reinforced concrete beam (and two-thirds the weight of steel). This means they’re easier to transport and handle. Glulam beams are still heavy, though, and are generally only specified to handle long spans and large loads as calculated by a structural engineer. This blog post isn’t meant to suggest glulam beams for the DIY remodeler, but I think it’s important for homeowners to know what materials are available as they plan their next dream project, so they can better communicate those ideas to a reputable building contractor. For the Pros: Our contractor friends who tackle heavy construction and remodeling might be interested to learn more about glulam beams from this video webinar, courtesy of APA - The Engineered Wood Association.

Weather Shield VUE Windows and Doors Weather Shield’s new VUE Collection of all-aluminum windows and patio doors provides sophisticated design with ultra-narrow profiles and large spans of glass, which seamlessly connect living spaces with the outdoor environment. “The VUE Collection is uniquely flexible,” says Chris Schield, Vice President of Product Marketing, Weather Shield. “We set out to create an offering that’s highly customizable with features and options well matched to the custom home market.” Options include three distinct glazing beads and a range of anodized and AAMA 2605-rated paint finishes. The VUE Collection’s innovative frame design connects windows and doors to create large ribbons of glass in one-of-a-kind configurations. The collection maximizes thermal and structural performance and exceeds the most stringent energy codes. Casement, Awnings, Direct-Sets and Multi-Slide Doors in the collection will be released to select markets this summer. Additional products will be available in 2022. More information on the VUE Collection can be found at www.weathershield.com/vue-collection. Paslode Cordless XP Framing Nailer Paslode’s newest model Cordless XP Framing Nailer, model CFN325XP (#906300), is engineered, built, and tested with the pro in mind to get the job done right. “Our research identified four opportunities for improvement,” explains Morgan Manning, Paslode Senior Product Manager. “Increased efficiency of loading nails, redesigned grip for better comfort and control, improved performance when rapid-firing nails, and easy battery removal. All of these features have been added to this new model, solving pro’s key pain points.” The Paslode Cordless XP is a fuel-powered system that drives 9,000 nails per battery charge and 1,200 nails per fuel cell to keep you productive all day. It comes with a rear-load magazine with a bypass follower for faster nail loading – just load and pull. The new model is the lightest cordless framing nailer on the market at 7.2 lbs., up to four pounds lighter than the competition, and its new texturized padded grip provides extra comfort and control. It features a longer fan run-time, keeping the tool cool especially during rapid firing. Its Fuel System drives nails flush into LVL and other hard lumber. Other features include a tool-free adjustable depth of drive and an adjustable rafter belt hook that can rotate for either right or left-handed users. A nail lock-out mechanism engages when five nails are left in the magazine to signal that reloading is necessary and help prevent premature driver blade wear. Visit www.paslode.com. Owens Corning PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation Fiberglass insulation has a reputation for irritating the skin during insulation—but what if it felt as soft as cotton? That’s a big selling point of the new Owens Corning PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation. It's made with advanced fiber technology for a superior texture that resists shedding and feels like cotton, which is good news for pro tradesmen or DIY installers. PINK Next Gen Fiberglas is designed to be the new standard in insulation thanks to a 23-percent faster installation time. The material recovers instantly, cuts and splits cleanly, glides in easily and stays put in the cavity, helping deliver inspection-ready results in less time. The Pink Next Gen advanced fiber technology fills cavities completely without fluffing or compression to leave a smooth, uniform surface. Learn more at www.owenscorning.com. Bosch Jobsite Radios Bosch Power Tools announced two new iterations of its jobsite radio. The GPB18V-5C offers convenience and flexibility with four 120V AC power outlets to power lights, tools, electronics and more. Four-way speakers with integrated subwoofer create high-quality, powerful stereo sound that projects in all directions. Its rugged design provides a protective aluminum and rubber roll cage built to last on even the toughest jobsites. The GPB18V-2C is the compact version of the jobsite radio built with the same quality and durability. For environments where portability is key, this compact radio features handles and a hanging hook, along with a dust- and moisture-resistant design. Both radios have several ways to connect and listen to music, including Bluetooth 5.0 providing connection to music streaming services or stored songs via mobile device. Both run on Bosch’s 18V Lithium-ion batteries or included AC/DC adapter. With USB charging capability, mobile devices will stay charged and ready at all times. Visit www.boschtools.com. Durasein Durasein produces solid surfacing materials that are composed of two-thirds natural minerals and one third high-performance acrylic resin and pigments. Where Durasein sets itself apart from the competition is a unique color palette, customization capabilities like their multiple variable-width production lines, in-house fabrication and shapes manufacturing teams, plus a crew of color designers and material scientists that assist clients in creating their own custom colors, patterns, and collections. The company serves as a creative partner, not simply a manufacturer. Solid surface materials are easy to clean, and stain- and chemical-resistant. Durasein is renewable, repairable, recyclable and reusable. The surface is safe for food, non-toxic, non-porous, anti-bacterial, low VOC, mold/mildew resistant, and backed by a 10-year warranty. Visit https://durasein.com. WORX Nitro 20V Drill-Driver and 20V Impact Driver Combo The new WORX Nitro 20V Drill-Driver and 20V Impact Driver Combo features brushless motors that deliver 25 percent more power and run 50 percent longer than conventional brushed motors. The maintenance-free, brushless motors run cooler with less friction and heat buildup, which results in more efficient and dependable operation, as well as longer service life. The Nitro 20V Drill-Driver is equipped with a heavy-duty, 1/2-in., ratcheting metal chuck for superior bit retention. It utilizes all-metal gears with two-speed gearing and 18+1 clutch positions that enable selection of the best speed and torque for the job at hand. The WORX Nitro 20V Impact Driver is the tool of choice for more demanding DIY jobs, such as building decks, swing sets, fences, benches and picnic tables. It has a 1/4-in. hex chuck for fast bit changes and no slippage. Three speed ranges of 0-900; 0-2400 and 0-3000 no-load rpm enable the driver to handle a wide range of applications. Corresponding impact rates are 0-1200; 0-3300 and 0-4000 impacts-per-minute (ipm). A built-in electronic digital keypad provides speed/impact selections. With 2300 in.-lbs. of torque, the driver can manage the most demanding jobs. Visit www.worx.com. Ryobi 40V HP Brushless WHISPER Series Jet Fan Blower The Ryobi 40V HP Brushless WHISPER Series Jet Fan Blower (model RY404100VNM) delivers peak performance at 730 CFM and up to 190 MPH. Innovative noise-reduction technology allows this blower to deliver all the power without the noise at only 57 decibels. Advanced lithium-ion technology delivers up to 2 hours of runtime using the two included 40V 4 Ah Batteries. Cordless convenience means no mixing gas and oil, no maintenance, and no more hassle starting the unit. Simply plug in a battery and pull the trigger to unleash incredible power without the noise. The new 40V Blower has a cruise control feature that reduces user fatigue allowing you to dial in performance from 250 CFM to 550 CFM. Unleash the full potential of this blower with the featured turbo button delivering up to 730 CFM or exercise complete control with the variable speed trigger for clearing in delicate areas like mulch beds. This blower comes with two speed tips allowing you to modify your blower to achieve between 160MPH and 190 MPH of clearing force. The blower is backed by a 5-year warranty and will be available exclusively at The Home Depot. Visit ryobitools.com.

Protect the look and performance of outdoor wood with a coating of preservative. No matter what type of wood you have, from pressure-treated pine to exotic hardwood, staining and sealing the surface is the best way to protect it from the elements. Types of Wood Preservative The most common outdoor wood coating is an exterior-grade penetrating stain/sealer. These water-repellent preservatives include a "mildewcide," and some products contain ultraviolet light absorbers that protect from sun exposure. Available in both oil- and water-based formulations, the resins penetrate wood pores to provide pigment and block out the damaging effects of weather exposure. Available in a range of semi-transparent color tones, these stains allow the natural woodgrain appearance and texture to shine through. The second category is a film-forming sealant that bonds to the surface of the wood similar to paint or shellac. Pigments are added to change the wood color and add UV protection. These products can provide a solid paint-like coating or, when applied to sanded surfaces, a semi-transparent high-gloss furniture look. They’re available in oil- or water-based finishes but can only be maintained with another coat of the same film-forming sealant. If you want to switch to a penetrating stain, the old film-forming sealant will first have to be sanded off. Film-forming coatings are often avoided in areas prone to foot traffic. Outdoor wood coatings are typically formulated with either water or oil. Most water-based stain/sealants have tiny particles of pigment and resin that tightly adhere to each as the finish dries, similar to a patchwork quilt. With oil-based finishes, the tiny particles actually fuse together chemically into one large sheet-like substance, which usually achieves a harder finish that is less likely to develop an amber color over time. Water-based finishes are popular because they’re easier to use, and that advantage goes a long way for DIY homeowner. Compared to oil-based formulas, they’re much easier to clean up, have a lower odor, and are often less expensive. However, most water-based coatings require more coats and still don’t last as long as their oil-based or “alkyd” counterparts, which have a reputation of providing more long-term, wood-preserving durability. Although using a sprayer can speed up application, back-brushing the coating is still critical. When you brush the stain, the brush creates a friction that breaks the surface tension of the wood and works the preservative into the pores for the best protection. New Wood Allow all wood to dry before staining or sealing. This is particularly important for pressure-treated lumber because the waterborne preservative leaves moisture in the wood, and that moisture will inhibit absorption and retention of the stain/sealer you’ll apply. For best performance of paint and stain coatings, allow treated lumber to dry for 2 to 4 weeks prior to application. Estimating exact drying time is difficult, and a lot depends on how much time has elapsed since the treatment, the wood’s exposure to the sun, ambient weather, etc. Wood with natural preservatives, such as Western Red Cedar, cypress and redwood, do not require as much drying time because the wood was never pressure-treated with a preservative. For best results, clean the surface of new wood to remove any “mill scale,” which is grain compression from the milling process that can cause the stain to run off without absorbing. Clean the surface with an oxygenated bleach to remove mill scale. Prior to staining, add extra protection by sealing or fill any serious knots or imperfections in the wood. A porous black knot or crack in a board makes a prime place for water to accumulate and lead to rot. Patch these areas with a putty knife and non-shrinking exterior wood filler (or similar repair product). Hardware stores sell tinted wood filler to closely match your wood stain of choice. Weathered Wood When wood is exposed to the sunlight, the ultraviolet rays can damage the wood fibers over time, causing the surface to turn gray, and this holds true for any wood species. The most direct way to renew the appearance is to sand or pressure-wash the surface. (Never use steel wool.) However, sanding can be very difficult and time-consuming. Pressure-washing can remove the gray but cause the surface to fuzz or splinter, posing a “touch” hazard for areas such as deck surfaces where people may walk barefoot. When using a power-washer, limit your pressure to no more than 1,000 or 1,200 PSI to reduce wood damage. On older decks or fences, some individual boards may be heavily weathered. Replace them completely, clean the existing boards, then stain them all to match the rest of the project. Be sure to mask off any area you want to protect from any cleaning chemicals or the wood stain. Plastic drop cloths work well. Oxygen bleach makes a good outdoor wood cleaner that won’t harm the grass or plant life as chlorine bleach will do. Scrub the surface with a stiff-bristle brush to remove grime. Rinse it off thoroughly. Wood with Old Stain It’s usually a good idea to remove old stain before applying new stain, especially if changing products or colors. Old stain will usually show through the new stain, leaving blotchy spots in the finish. However, if you plan to stick with the same color and type of stain (and your deck is in decent condition) then you can probably get by with a thorough cleaning and a fresh maintenance coat. As always, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for best practices. If there is a buildup of old stains on the deck, then you may need to remove it with something stronger than oxygen bleach. Stain strippers are more caustic, but they remove most weathered stains in a single application. Small, stubborn spots of stain can then be removed with a hand sander once the deck has dried. Conditioning An often-overlooked step for outdoor staining projects is the application of a wood brightener. These chemical agents open the woodgrain to improve penetration of the stain and help restore the appearance of weathered wood to a like-new condition. The product can simply be sprayed onto the wood surface, given a few minutes to work its “magic” and then rinsed off, requiring very little labor. After using any chemical treatment to clean and prepare the wood, use plenty of water to completely remove all traces of the products—and then allow the surface to dry prior to stain or sealer application. Application The wood surface should always be clean, dry, and free of mold or mildew. Always thoroughly mix the stain to evenly blend the solids and ensure a consistent color tone throughout the project. Stir the container every 15 minutes with a paint stick as you work. Avoid applying the stain/sealer in direct sunlight, which might dry the product on the surface before it has time to adequately penetrate the wood. For a vertical structure like a fence or deck rail, begin application at the top of the project and work downward, which allows you to catch runs in the stain as you go. Most stain/sealers can be applied with a brush, roller, stain-application pads, or an airless sprayer, but always consult the manufacturer’s instructions for details. For both horizontal and vertical structures, brushing is the best method for application because the bristles push the stain/sealer evenly into the wood to increase absorption. Work the brush in the same direction as the woodgrain. Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Using a sprayer or roller can apply the stain more quickly, but both of these methods leave much of the stain on the surface without adequate penetration into the pores. If the product doesn’t adhere well, it can wear away unevenly, so you should still back-brush it into the woodgrain for the most consistent appearance and best protection. After the required coats of the new stain/sealer have dried, water should bead off the wood surface, indicating that the project has been sealed. SIDE NOTE Deck Defense On a recent fence-staining project, the HIR team tried out the Deck Defense “one coat” finish from Perma-Chink Systems, and found it to be very easy to work with. Deck Defense is a totally waterborne product but has penetrating properties like oil finishes, and it hardens into a lattice-like coating that strengthens the natural wood fibers from the inside out. Formulated to protect against the effects of sun, wind, and water, Deck Defense is available in seven colors and made in the USA. Find out more at www.permachink.com.

Use the Right Blade The most versatile tool for cutting the linear strips of molding will be a powered miter saw with a quality blade. The quantity of teeth plays a significant role in the blade’s performance. Blades best suited for rough work (such as ripping 2x stock lengthwise along the grain) have fewer teeth with large gullets for easy chip removal. Blades meant for crosscutting boards into shorter lengths have more teeth with a smaller gullet for a smoother cut. When cutting trim, an even higher number of teeth translates into smoother cuts for finish applications. The type of material is also a factor; for cutting PVC product HIR recommends using a carbide toothed blade with 80 teeth or more to prevent chipping. A blade designed specifically for trim-work can increase your cutting accuracy, which helps when mating the joints. A rough cut might require you to sand the cut smooth, but the act of sanding can alter the shape of the cut, so it may no longer fit perfectly during assembly. Spare yourself the frustration on trim projects and use fine-toothed blade intended for trim. Calibrate your Miter Saw A miter saw’s reliability to cut an accurate angle should also be checked and maintained, because a little misalignment can cause major headaches for a carpentry project. Calibrating the saw is an important step because a difference as small as 1° over a 1-in. span will result in a 1/32-in. gap in the finished miter joint. Similarly, 3° over 5-in. span gives you a 3/8-in. gap. The misaligned pieces won’t join together tightly if the cuts have been made at an incorrect angle. Miter Angle—A combination square makes a handy tool for confirming the saw blade’s miter alignment, ensuring the blade is set exactly at 90 degrees to the saw’s fence (which should register as 0 degrees on the saw blade’s angle indicator). There should be no gap between the edges of the square and the blade or fence. If there is a gap, you’ll need to refer to your saw’s operation manual for specific steps on how to adjust the blade angle. To adjust alignment on the Bosch compound miter saw shown in the photos, I had to loosen four set screws with a hex key, move the table so the blade was a perfect 90 degrees to the fence, then retighten the screws. Once the blade aligned with the combo-square calibration check, I knew I could rely on my saw to cut accurate miter angles. Bevel Angle—Compound miter saws offer a bevel adjustment feature which should also be calibrated. You can verify the vertical tilt of the blade by aligning the combo-square with the saw base and the blade. Check for any gaps between the square and the blade. If the bevel requires adjustment, follow the steps in the owner’s manual, which usually requires loosening some set screws or bolts at the bevel post of the saw’s cutting head. Measure Your Miter Joints Once your saw is set up to cut an accurate angle, trim installers quickly learn that not all corners of the house are truly square. It’s not uncommon for the wall angles of a house to be off as much as 3°, which can result in a gap in the miter joint if the pieces are each cut at 45 degrees. To solve this problem when cutting Vertical Position Miters (baseboard, chair rail, quarter round, etc.) for outside corners, you should measure the angle then refer to an Angle Calculator to determine the two complementary angles needed to close the joint. (See chart below). For example, an outside corner that measures 272 degrees will need two 46-deg. miters for a perfect joint. It's tough to avoid miters on outside corners, but for inside corners, you have the option to make a cope joint. Read more about how to cope molding HERE. How to Skip Miters on Casing If assembling mitered corners absolutely gives you the fits, consider simplifying window and door casing by incorporating pre-made rosette blocks at the corners. Rosette blocks assemble with simple butt joints against square cross-cuts, so there’s no need to measure, cut, and join miter angles. The blocks are carved from solid wood or MDF, usually 3/4-in. thick, and the standard 3-1/2-in. block works well with 1x4 trim or 3-1/4-in. moldings. Install them with glue, finish with a little caulk and paint, and the blocks can add a decorative touch to the corners.

(guest post courtesy of Go Solar Group) Many homeowners are renovating due to the pandemic, and a big trend is going “green” with solar power. Going solar is an investment, and it is commonly met with a series of objections. Whether you’re convincing your spouse to opt in to residential solar or if you run a large business that needs to reduce its energy expenses, the experts at GoSolarGroup.com explain the value of solar power in light of these common objections. 1. “I Can’t Afford Solar.” If you can afford a power bill, you can afford at least half of what your power bill will cost, which solar, at the very least, makes possible. The cost of residential solar has dropped by 70% between 2010 and 2016, and is still on the decline. You can also pay off part of the system with a solar referral program. 2. “I’m Refinancing My Mortgage on My Home.” So, you’ll be paying less over a longer period of time, and therefore are likely have to pay a higher interest rate, which will require you to either change your lifestyle or save more money. Even if the refinancing saves you money, you can use the leftover change to help pay for a solar loan. Solar is one of the few ways that you can passively save money. That said, this is one of the many reasons these conditions wouldn’t disqualify you from solar power. 3. “I’m Getting a New Roof.” Replacing the roof is something that will happen when you get solar. The conservative lifespan of a quality solar system is 30-40 years, and, for instance, an asphalt shingle roof should be replaced every 25 years. Because of this, solar professionals usually offer to remove the system for the cost of labor whenever you need to replace your roof, so the roof will be able to support the panels. That’s a good thing. If you bought the panels and had put them on top of a bad roof, you’d have to take them down and reinstall them. A new roof ensures you get the maximum ROI on the panels themselves. 4. “I’m Not Sure Whether I’m Interested.” Are you satisfied with paying $1-2k every year to the power company for the rest of your life? If you’re 40, that’s $52,500 dollars on average. Most people don’t think this is something they can change, but solar power can do exactly that. 5. “I Have Too Much Debt.” If your credit rating is over 670, the debt is not too much to have affected your credit score, which qualifies for solar energy. When you get solar, you are only in debt for a few years, as opposed to forever with the power company, and every single time you turn on a light switch. 6. “I’m Moving.” Depending on the time frame, a full-service solar company licensed in the area can either wait to schedule your install at a new property or do the install, take down, then reinstall. 7. “Solar is Too Pricey/I Don’t See the ROI.” Although prices have fallen in recent years, a common objection remains that the expense of solar panels and installation takes too long time to recoup the monetary investment. However, homeowners also want to consider Return on Environmental Impact, as well as non-monetary features like security from battery backup, and being able to power devices when the grid goes down. 8. “What About the Tariff?” There’s yet to be a profitable solar company who’s raised prices on imported solar panels because of the tariff, therein passing the increased price of it on to its customers. A debt-free company like Go Solar Group, for instance, won’t raise prices on even it’s top-tier, German-engineered solar panels and inverters. 9. “I Thought it Was Free.” Solar is an investment which, like any good investment, makes you money. Making money is always better than not spending it, which is all that any free item gives you. There are some companies that do “free” solar panels, but “free” panels are really “leased” panels, so companies that do these systems don’t actually give you the panels. Instead, they own the panels, put them on your roof, then charge you for the power they produce. An alternative solution is to purchase the panels through financing them (if you can’t pay with cash). After about 12 years, you own them and the energy they produce. A power bill will fluctuate, increase over time, and be there forever. A solar bill remains at a steady amount for a few years and then you own the system, no more power bill. Sunlight is free, but the solar panels and setup themselves are not. And, if you are connected to the grid, you will still have a small power bill no matter what. Remember, there’s a difference between going solar for zero down with no upfront payment and going solar for free. Community-based solar programs are the closest to free that you can get (aside from the ill-advised free solar panels). 10. “I’m Waiting for Tesla Solar Shingles” Go Solar Group is a certified Tesla Powerwall Installer, but there are downsides to solar shingles. You will be waiting another 3 to 4 years. And the expenses will likely not drop at that point to where they are manageable for most people who would otherwise go solar with regular rooftop panels. Three to 4 years also reduces the time value of money and cuts significantly into opportunity cost. Therefore, waiting for solar shingles hinders the amount of money you can ultimately save with rooftop solar. Additionally, the price of solar panels is about 1/4 of the cost of solar shingles at present date.

How the heck is Dad supposed to fix all the things that need fixing if he doesn't have the right tools? This year, you should get him geared up with some of these great gift ideas for home improvement and repairs. Worx Nitro 40V 16” Chainsaw The new Worx Nitro 40V, 16-in. Chainsaw harnesses the power and run-time of dual 20V, 4.0Ah Power Share PRO batteries, plus a high-efficiency, maintenance-free brushless motor. It’s the fastest-cutting cordless chainsaw Worx has offered to date. The Nitro chainsaw provides gas-like performance to cut timbers up to 30-in. diameter. Its 16-in. bar has a reduced-kickback chain with a 3/8-in. pitch and a high-speed cut rate of 59 ft./sec. The included Power Share PRO intelligent batteries feature cell-cooling technology that enhances tool performance and extends run-times. Power Share PRO batteries are compatible with all WORX 20V and 40V products. Remaining battery runtime can be checked with the onboard battery indicator. The chainsaw is covered by five-year limited warranty and comes with a 4-amp, dual-port charger that brings both batteries to a full charge in 2 hours. Visit www.worx.com. AccuMASTER Digital Level The AccuMASTER Digital Level takes measurements with both the LED display and a bubble vial to achieve an accuracy of ±0.2°, so you can work with more confidence than with a standard bubble level. The AccuMASTER finds plumb, level and every angle in between. It has a sturdy milled aluminum frame and provides accurate measurements in any weather, from 14° F - 122° F (-10° - 50° C). The LED display shows the angle of the surface with an arrow indicating if the surface should move "up" or "down". A beep sounds at 0° and 90° if the sound function is turned on. The LCD display also inverts when using the level upside down for easy reading, and a Hold button locks the display so you can move the unit for easier reading. Magnets in the bottom rail enable steady measuring on metal pipes and conduit. Visit www.calculated.com. Ridgid 18V Brushless 18-Gauge Brad Nailer The latest Ridgid 18V Brad Nailer (R09891B) is more compact and lighter weight compared to the previous model (R09890B), which makes it comfortable to hold and easy to use. Featuring Clean Drive Technology, the new nailer boasts 17 times more consecutive drives to increase accuracy and precision on the job. This model has a small nose for better visibility and drives flush at all angles with no driver-blade slip. Paired with any Ridgid 18V battery, it delivers the power of a pneumatic nailer in a cordless tool. Requiring no compressor, hose, or gas cartridge, this 18V Brad Nailer enables faster setup and easier maneuvering on the job site. Designed with a powerful brushless motor, it easily drives 18-gauge nails from 5/8 to 2-1/8 in. and features dry-fire lockout to extend motor life and prevent misfires. Drive up to 3,500 nails per charge with an 18V 6.0Ah battery. The transparent magazine comes in handy on the job to monitor your nail supply, and the tool-free jam release allows you to get back to work faster. With product registration, this tool is eligible for the industry-eading Lifetime Service Agreement, providing free seals, free pistons, and free driver blades—for life. Visit www.ridgid.com. Wilton Multipurpose Bench Vise The new Wilton Multi-Purpose Bench Vises are available in 4-1/2-, 5-1/2-, and 6-1/2-in. jaw widths, all anchored by 60,000-psi ductile iron bases. By comparison, most multi-purpose vise bases are constructed using 30,000-psi gray cast iron, which bears half the stress, making them more susceptible to cracking or breaking under load. The redesigned Multi-Purpose Bench Vises feature the same industrial styling of the Wilton Bullet Vise. Solidly built, these vises are structurally sound with features such as factory-lubricated, enclosed spindles with lifetime lubrication for trouble-free service; precision machined jaws that consistently provide smooth operation; 360º swivel bases, and a swiveling head indexed in 30º increments for clamping materials at virtually any angle. The multi-purpose vise provides the option of using the pipe or V-jaws. Replaceable horizontal pipe jaws accommodate pipe from 1/4 to 3 inches in diameter. The V-jaw option holds pipe and other round stock vertically. The vises also feature anvils with a large surface area for striking and shaping materials—and everything is backed by the Wilton Lifetime Warranty. Visit www.wiltontools.com. Jorgensen E-Z HOLD Expandable Bar Clamp The Jorgensen E-Z HOLD expandable bar clamp is perfect for the woodworker. Let Dad get around to assembling his very own workbench or backyard lounger with the E-Z HOLD expandable bar clamp, which helps with rapid and easy clamping. With a contoured comfort grip and quick-release lever, it’s never been simpler to get a firm hold on a project. “Look, Ma! One hand!” Unique Jorgensen E‑Z HOLD bar clamps allow for rapid and easy clamping and can easily be converted to spreader clamps. The contoured comfort grip and quick‑release lever make it simple to get a firm grasp, and our exclusive patented feature lets you join two clamps together to create a clamp with more than double the opening capacity of a single clamp. Deep‑reach pads help protect your work. Available in light-duty and medium-duty models. Visit www.ponyjorgensen.com. Ryobi ONE+ Power Source The Ryobi 18V ONE+ Power Source provides convenient, on-the-go power with 150-watts of continuous output. This Power Source is designed for powering laptops, tablets, cell phones, fans and other small electronics. The compact and lightweight design is compatible with all Ryobi 18V ONE+ batteries, and the Power Source also acts as a charger, allowing you to recharge your ONE+ batteries through the USB-C port. Equipped with (1) 120-Volt outlet, (2) Fast Charging USB-A outlets and (1) Fast Charging USB-C outlet, your compatible small devices will charge as fast as possible, up to 30 watts. This kit includes the new USB Fast Charging Wall Adaptor & USB charging cable, making your options of where and how to charge your batteries more versatile than ever. This Power Source kit also comes with a 2.0 Ah battery that is compatible with over 225 Ryobi 18V ONE+ products, and it’s all backed by a 3-Year Limited Warranty. Visit www.ryobitools.com. Bosch Profactor Cordless Impact Wrenches A cordless impact wrench is a handy tool for everything from tightening automotive lug nuts to driving lag bolts. The new Bosch Cordless Impact Wrenches feature BITURBO Brushless technology, a high-performance motor and drive-train system engineered to take full advantage of the Bosch CORE18V batteries. The GDS18V-740 model delivers up to 740 ft.-lbs. of fastening torque and 1,180 ft.-lbs. of max breakaway torque, plus a 1/2-in. friction ring allows for fast socket changes. The GDS18V-770 model delivers up to 770 ft.-lbs. of fastening torque and 1,250 ft.-lbs. of max breakaway torque, and it features a 3/4-in. friction ring and thru hole that allows for fast socket changes and a more secure fit. Visit core18v.boschtools.com/profactor. The Scrigit Scraper A handy tool with a hundred uses, the Scrigit Scraper is a pen-shaped, non-scratch cleaning tool that provides a quick and convenient way to remove small amounts of unwanted substances from household and automotive surfaces, edges and grooves. The Scrigit Scraper can be used instead of fingernails and metal tools to quickly clean off small areas of unwanted substances, such as grime, caulk, putty, candle wax, latex paint splatters, dried food, adhesive stickers, labels and tape. The tool is two scrapers in one. A rounded tip simulates the effective scraping shape of a fingernail and is great for scraping off small spots, cleaning curved surfaces, and removing adhesive labels, stickers and tape. The flat-edged tip is best for getting into tight spaces and cleaning off unwanted materials from flat surfaces, edges, corners and door tracks. Made in the USA of a durable plastic resin that easily washes clean and won’t conduct electricity, the Scrigit Scraper is available in 2-packs and 5-packs. Visit www.scrigit-scraper.com. Keeper Combat Ratchet Tie Down Straps The Keeper Combat Ratchet Tie Downs are now available at The Home Depot. Performance-engineered to meet extreme day-to-day demands, Keeper Combat Ratchet Straps feature a stealthy and strong steel ratchet with "No Slip Grip" handles and vinyl-coated S-hooks to prevent scratching and marring. Leading the family of products is the 16-ft. Combat Ratchet Tie Down, which has durable 1.25-inch webbing to absorb shock and resist cut, rot and abrasion with a half-ton working limit. Keeper’s patent-pending webbing design adds 67 percent more abrasion-resistance and 30 percent more cut-resistance than regular webbing, which enables the tie downs to hold up and stay stronger for rugged outdoor use. With a 1,000-lb. load limit, each strap also features a sewn-in, soft tie to lock down lighter loads. Visit www.keeperproducts.com. Benchtop Dust Collector For the woodworking dad, the new BenchTop DC from Oneida Air Systems delivers powerful, portable dust collection right at the Workbench. Its unique design allows the BenchTop DC to fit conveniently on a workbench behind the working area, where it moves airborne dust away from the source (and the user’s breathing zone) and into the unit’s highly efficient dual-filter system. This portable unit delivers powerful source collection for hand tools lacking built-in or adequately sized dust ports, and for any activity that puts users in close proximity to dust generation. Featuring six high-performance fan motors for a quiet and uniform airflow and increased static pressure, the industrial-grade BenchTop DC delivers up to 535 CFM—ideal for capturing airborne dust at the source. The powder-coated steel frame is built-to-last, and its dual-filter system features a washable MERV 5 pre-filter, which captures larger particles to extend the longevity of the wide-pleated, high-performance MERV 15 main filter, which captures 85-95 percent of the most dangerous dust particles (0.3 to 1 microns). A variable speed control allows the user to adjust the fan speed to meet their individual needs. Visit www.oneida-air.com. Metabo HPT MultiVolt Plunge Router Metabo HPT launched the industry-first MultiVolt Cordless Plunge Router that offers complete freedom to tackle woodworking jobs on the go. This 36V 1/2” Plunge Router (model M3612DA) accepts any MultiVolt battery for extreme power and runtime and accepts the unique AC Adapter (model ET36A) to plug in for all day runtime, offering ultimate versatility and extending battery life. It’s backed by Metabo HPT’s Lifetime Lithium-Ion tool body warranty and two-year lithium-ion battery warranty for peace of mind. No longer must you be tethered to a workstation; just slide on the MultiVolt battery and get going. When you need to get the job done quickly this 2 peak HP brushless router features faster cutting speeds than its corded equivalents. With11,000 up to 25,000 RPM, it can plunge through even the hardest of woods with ease, cutting just over 46 feet per minute. At only 6.6 lbs. (with battery), it is 40 percent lighter than its corded equivalent and features Metabo HPT’s signature ergonomic grip along with a handle mounted lock-on switch to make extended work easier. Bit capacity is 1/4- or 1/2-in. with included collets. Visit www.metabo-hpt.com. Milwaukee Ratchets with Flexible Head Milwaukee Tool’s Flex Head Ratcheting Combination Wrenches feature a flexible head design that allows better access in hard-to-reach spaces. With 2.5⁰ of arc swing and 144 ratcheting positions, these new wrenches allow for quick and efficient work in tight and awkward spaces. The double-stacked pawls within the ratcheting mechanism are engineered to increase durability and extend the life of the tool. The Max Bite Open-End Grip improves the wrench’s grip on nuts and bolts, offering 25 percent more torque than smooth-faced wrenches. The ergonomic I-Beam handles are designed for superior comfort in high+ torque situations. The ink-filled size labels provide easy size identification and are color-coded for quick distinction between SAE and Metric sets. The wrenches are fully covered under the Milwaukee Mechanics Hand Tool Lifetime Guarantee. Visit www.milwaukeetool.com. Knipex Insulated Screwdrivers Knipex Tools offers a full line of 1,000V VDE-tested insulated screwdrivers (98 series) available in slotted, Phillips and square tips. The insulated screwdrivers feature an anti-roll away handle, and the two-component handle material provides exceptional gripping performance. Each insulated screwdriver has a hang hole for easier storage. The insulated screwdrivers are made of chrome vanadium molybdenum steel. Each one of the insulated tools undergoes a dielectric strength at 10,000V AC. Other tests check the reliability of the insulation towards heat, cold, tensile and impact force. Visit www.knipex-tools.com.

What’s hot in house siding for 2021? Here are four different options that are turning heads in the new year. TruCedar Steel Board and Batten Above: The HIR team went on site with Mike Roberts and Justin McAllister of Lovelady Construction as they installed a beautiful blue TruCedar steel siding on a home in Thorsby, Alabama. TruCedar® Steel Siding from Quality Edge replicates the popular vertical Craftsman style of board and batten siding available in wide (10") and narrow (6") profiles. Each TruCedar profile has a carbon-reinforced steel alloy core enveloped in CarbonTech60 zinc coating. This coating provides both a physical barrier, cathodic protection and prevents moisture and oxygen from reaching the steel core. The siding won’t peel, rot, fade, crack, mold or melt, it resists pest infestation, and it’s backed by a lifetime warranty. Find out more at www.qualityedge.com. Ascend Composite Cladding Ascend® Composite Cladding by Alside is a “first-of-its-kind” siding solution offering a color palette of 20 shades with the deeply grained look of real wood. Winner of a 2021 “Best of IBSx Award” in for new building materials, Ascend is the world’s first cladding engineered with a combination of Glass-Reinforced Polymer and Graphite-Infused Polystyrene. This patented technology achieves superior performance in tests for wind load and impact resistance, workability and flame/smoke spread—all without the headaches of maintenance. Not only does the product’s light weight make it easy to handle, but its self-aligning stack lock makes it easy to install. Plus, no sealing, touching up, joint flashing or caulking is required—meaning less mess and less waste. ASCEND composite cladding is backed by an lifetime warranty. Find out more at www.alside.com. TandoStone TandoStone™, the number one brand of composite stone siding, offers two new colors: Nordic Mist, part of the Tando Creek Ledgestone Collection, and Glacier Bay, under the Stacked Stone line. Creek Ledgestone emulates the rugged look of hand-picked stone with distinct grout lines, while Stacked Stone features a dry stack profile without grout lines between the stones. Neutrals and light gray colors remain popular for housing exteriors. Drawing from those current trends, Tando developed Nordic Mist, a cool gray with warm accents, and Glacier Bay, which includes an array of frosty gray hues. TandoStone features realistic design, easy installation, moisture resistance, expansive color options, and TruGrit technology—a unique matte texture that offers a low-gloss appearance and the rough, gritty feel of real stone. Impervious to moisture, TandoStone is perfect for ground-level or roofline applications and can be installed in any climate. It’s also safer and easier to install as an accent on tall walls – meaning property owners never have to worry about stones falling off the wall. And TandoStone will never break which means minimal waste on every project. Find out more at www.tandobp.com. Diamond Kote Siding Recognized as the No. 1 brand of prefinished LP Smartside, Diamond Kote Siding is an engineered wood product treated with a SmartGuard process, which allows it to withstand extreme temperatures, heavy humidity, freeze/thaws and everything in between. Diamond Kote Siding is backed by a 30-year No fade warranty, plus a 5/50-year limited warranty provides 5-year, 100-percent labor and replacement feature and a 50-year prorated limited warranty on the product. It’s core strength resists airborne debris, and the warranty covers damage from hail up to 1.75” in diameter. Custom color options help homeowners create the exterior look of their dreams. Plus, the manufacturer claims the siding installs up to 22 percent faster than standard 16’ lap siding, due to its heavy-duty rear spline. Find out more at diamondkotesiding.com.

(guest post courtesy of Will Chelak) A perfect blend of nature and commerce, Beaverton, Oregon sits just seven miles outside of Portland to combine the natural beauty of the area’s parks, vineyards, forests and trails with the world headquarters of leading corporations like Nike, Inc. Bill Campbell truly understood these benefits when he built his first house in the Brook Haven section of West Beaverton more than 30 years ago. Armed with little more than a “background in construction as a young man” and a class on “Building Your Own House” at the local community college, Campbell spent the better part of 18 months on the design and build of a 2,600 sq. ft, three-bedroom house that would be the family’s home for more than three decades. “It was really exhilarating doing the whole thing from the ground up yourself,” says Campbell. “There’s a real sense of achievement that accompanies the effort. Plus, the location couldn’t have been better We’re situated on the edge of the wetlands and up against a creek in the park district. It’s like having a wildlife park in your own backyard.” Despite the view and the thought of leaving the area they’d come to love, Campbell was approaching retirement and looking to downsize. So, his family devised the perfect plan. Their daughter would move into the main house after Bill Campbell finished the design and build of an 800 sq. ft. mother-in-law home situated next to his existing house on the same property. The only problem was that the township’s building code mandated that the aesthetics of both homes had to mirror each other. The new house literally had to be “mini-me” of the older structure. Knowing this would be his last major project, Campbell set out to build not only the smaller home, but upgrade the larger one with the same, long-lasting materials. For Campbell, this meant combining everything he learned from the first experience with the latest in building science. “Everything was designed with an emphasis on longevity and low maintenance,” offers Campbell. “Ideally, all the materials used would last for the next 30 years. As a result, we started to look at rainscreen ideas and the implementation of exterior control layers that would ensure both homes would stay water- and air-tight even during the wet, cold winters that are common throughout the Portland area." Rainscreen System for Exterior Protection In addition to the specification of natural, stone-cut veneers for the bases and installation of steel metal roofing, Campbell decided on Batu Rainscreen Siding from Nova USA Wood Products for the exterior of both homes after carefully researching various alternatives. Around for centuries, a rainscreen system entails fastening the siding to the structure with an air gap left between the siding material and the structure itself. Normally about 3/4-inches, the gap is specifically designed to create an air cavity that protects the exterior walls of the building from debris, rain and other elements, while also reducing the possibility of water filtration and leakage. The siding was then secured by Nova USA Wood’s ExoClad Rainscreen QuickClips, which accommodates the natural swelling and shrinkage of wood siding throughout all the seasons. This includes expanding when the wood swells and compressing back into its original form when the wood dries out and/or shrinks to prevent the siding from buckling or the clip from breaking. Another benefit was the beauty of the Batu or Red Balau hardwood siding itself, which closely resembles the rich classic look of Mahogany. This includes a moderately-fine texture and interlocking grain that ranges from a medium red to a deep red/brown with purple tinges to produce warm, visually striking effects. “Everything on the 30-year-old house’s exterior was replaced but the doorbell,” explains Campbell. “We then used the same material on the second home to ensure they both had the same look and feel. “Thanks to the QuickClips the install of the Batu siding was probably one of the easiest parts of the whole process. Once the clips are secured in a straight line, all you have to do is layer one course of siding on top of the other. With a little help, it took me about two weeks total to finish the siding on each house.” Once the work on both homes was complete, the Campbell family turned their attention to the rebuild of the 30-year-old, 600 sq. ft. deck at the main house as well as the design and build of a hardwood front porch, walkway and L-shaped deck at the mother-in-law home. To achieve this task, Campbell chose Nova USA Wood’s rich honey- and reddish-brown Cumaru decking. This is not only because of the hardwood’s exotic, warm tones, but also its strength, stability, durability and natural resistance to decay, wet conditions, termites and wood-boring insects. “The deck and remaining woodwork at the mother-in-law house were built in a matter of days with the aid of Nova USA Wood’s ExoDek® QuickClip ™ hidden deck fastener system,” says Campbell. “All you have to do is follow the directions and make sure each board is snug against the previous one. My wife and I did all the work ourselves. I drilled down the screws immediately after she put the clips in place. It was a breeze.” After two years of work, Campbell celebrated the completion of his second home on Memorial Day 2021. “Our new house provides an elevated view of the creek that is absolutely stunning,” adds Campbell. “We’re thrilled with the way everything came out. Everyone speaks about curb appeal. For us, curb appeal is coming home every day to a beautiful home we built ourselves.” # # # # Launched in 2005, Nova USA Wood Products is dedicated to the supply of superior, high-quality hardwood products and. For more information, visit www.novausawood.com or call 503-419-6407.

As the weather warms up, the average homeowner turns their thoughts to that old standby -- the air conditioner. At least, we hope it's on standby, because when the air condition stops working, the house quickly gets hot and stuffy. Air conditioners draw in warm air from the home and pass it over an evaporator coil that absorbs heat and removes humidity, which cools the air. The AC unit then expels the heat outside and pushes the cold air back into the room to make the temperature more comfortable. To achieve this procedure, most air conditioners contain the following parts: Condenser coil Compressor Metering Device, such as an expansion valve Condenser Fan Blower Electrical components Evaporator coil or “A” coil Furnace or Air Handler (central air conditioners only) If any of these parts break or work inefficiently, your AC unit may need repairs or replacement. Air Conditioner Maintenance Basics A broken, underperforming or malfunctioning home cooling system in the peak heat of summer is frustrating. Before you call a service technician about your unit, there are several basic maintenance and diagnostic steps you can perform. Knowing what’s wrong with your air conditioner is half the battle. The experts at Enercare, offer the following tip to address common AC problems. Old Age The average central air conditioner lasts about 15 years. If your unit is showing signs of old age, like poor performance or unusual noises, it’s likely time for a replacement. Frozen Coils If your evaporator coils don't get adequate airflow or they are clogged they can freeze and your AC unit may stop working. Dirt and other types of debris can clog the air filters and ducts, which restricts warm air from reaching the coils. Without the warm air, the coils can’t cool the air being pushed through your AC unit efficiently and may eventually freeze. If your coils are frozen, you may notice: Warm air coming out of the vents, despite the AC unit being on Condensation or ice on the AC unit or the outdoor refrigerant line Obvious signs of ice on the coil after opening the air handler If you discover a frozen coil, don’t try to clear the ice by hand because you may damage the unit. Instead, you can use a do-it-yourself remedy to thaw the ice before consulting with an HVAC technician. If the following steps don’t resolve your problem, we suggest you contact an AC expert. You may have a more serious malfunction, like a refrigerant leak, which must be handled by a licensed professional. Turn off the AC system using the external (wall) thermostat and make sure to turn off the unit using the furnace switch. Replace any dirty air filters. Open the furnace or air handler’s panel. Let the ice thaw naturally. Having the fan run can cause damage to the blower motor and the circuit board. After the coil has thawed (this may take 24 hours or more depending on how much ice buildup there is), reseal your unit. Turn on the power by turning on the furnace switch and adjusting the thermostat to come on and wait for your home to cool. If the home reaches the desired temperature and the AC unit turns off, you’ve probably solved the problem. If this doesn’t happen, consult an HVAC technician. Refrigerant Leak Refrigerant is the chemical found within the coils that helps cool the air, and without it your air conditioner won’t work. Refrigerant exposure can be dangerous, so if you have a leak (or suspect one) it’s crucial to contact an expert. If you have a refrigerant leak you may notice: A loss in cooling power Air vents not blowing cold air Hissing sounds coming from your AC unit Frozen evaporator or condenser coils Unusually high AC-related electric bills Overworked Capacitors and Contactors If your AC unit isn’t blowing air, you may have a capacitor or contractor issue. Capacitors and contactors work to keep essential motors running in the unit, such as the fan motor and blower motor. The parts require a significant amount of electricity to run, so they tend to get overheated and overworked during hot summer months — especially on older AC units. Defective Thermostat Sometimes the unit is not working due to other parts of the HVAC system, like a faulty thermostat. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may give the AC unit wrong information, which causes it to run when it shouldn’t or not turn on when it should. If you want to read more AC troubleshooting insights and selection information? Then check out Enercare's blog post, The 2021 Definitive Buyer's Guide to Air Conditioners.

When remodeling a kitchen, take a “whole room” approach to the lighting design, so the light from the various fixtures complements the entire living space. Today’s kitchens are often the hub of family living. The lighting should be suitable for reading, paying the bills, feeding the kids, and more. A single kitchen light source means that work around the perimeter of this central light is relegated to the dimmer areas of the room. A proper lighting scheme depends on the size and complexity of the kitchen. Smaller kitchens may require only a central overhead fixture coupled with under-cabinet task lighting placed near your sink and stove. Larger kitchens may require a combination of general, task, and accent lighting. 1 - PREPARE BEFORE SHOPPING When visiting a lighting showroom, bring photos of your kitchen and take note of the room’s dimensions. How tall is the ceiling? Where are the doors? How much space is there between the cabinets and the countertop? This information will help determine your options. 2 - START WITH THE BIG FEATURES Kitchen tables and islands are focal points; light them up first, then design your scheme outward. Try pendant lighting or a fixture with three lights over an island. 3 - CREATE A BALANCED MIX The biggest mistake is overlooking subtleties in your lighting scheme. Recessed lighting can create a blanket of light, but it doesn’t illuminate exactly where you need it. Don’t just add more recessed fixtures, which will just over-saturate the room with light. Combine lighting types, and remember that dimmer switches add flexibility. 4 - CHOOSE A NICE FINISH In 2021, the latest trends in decorative finishes for kitchen fixtures include: Black, especially in kitchens where a black finish accents dark, painted cabinets. Black is also being mixed with gold, chrome, and copper to offer a bold presence in a room. According the American Lighting Association, silver finishes are growing popular, “with subtle antique and softly shining silver leaf offering a new elegance to classic chandeliers and modern lighting silhouettes.” And brass is back in a less glossy version of its former bright sheen. 5- DON’T OVERLOOK DETAILS Under-cabinet lighting can reduce shadows on the counter and add critical light to work space. Mini-pendants mounted over a kitchen island can make countertop activities easier for everyone. And step lights around an island prevent stubbed toes during midnight snack runs.